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J 


f 

"DRIFTING  ABOUT," 


OR  WHAT 


"JEEMS    PIPES  OF  PIPESVILIE" 

SAW-AND-DID. 


AN    AUTOBIOGRAPHY 

STEPHEN     C     MASSETT. 
it 


WITH    MANY    COMIC    ILLUSTRATIONS    BY    MULLEN. 


NEW  YORK  : 

Car/eton,  Publisher ',  413  Broadway ^ 


M  DCCC  LXIII. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1868,  by 

GEO.  W.  CARLETON, 

In  the  Clerk'B  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  tho  United  States  for  the  Southern 

District  of  New  York. 


B.    CRAIGHEAD, 

Printer,  Stertotypcr,  mid  Klectrui yper. 
Carton  tfutltJing, 

81,  83,  and  85  Centre  SitrteL 


TO 

JAMES  T.  BRADY,  ESQ., 

THIS  VOLUME  IS  DEDICATED 

A8  A 

8LIGHT  TOKEN  OF  AFFECTIONATE  REGARD, 

BT  THE  AtTTHOR. 


Nkw  York,  Februaiy,  1868. 


960  H 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

I. — My  First  Voyage 13 

II.— A  Pearl  Street  Boarding-House  in  1837      ...  17 

III. — My  First  Saunter  up  Broadway  .        J       .        .        .  18 

IY. — Scene  on  a  Canal  Boat 19 

Y. — I  become  a  Law  Student 20 

VI.— The  Eagle  Street  Theatre 21 

VII— Drifting 23 

VIII — A    Full  and  True   Account  of  my  First  and  Last 

Deposit  in  a  Savings  Bank 29 

IX. — More  Funny  Scenes 32 

X.— Comic  Scenes  at  the  Charleston  (S.  C.)  Theatre  .        .  38 

XL— The  Old  Olympic 48 

XII.— All  about  a  Cairs  Head 53 

XIIL— Yankee  Hill 55 

XIY. — Summer  Trip  up  the  Mediterranean    ....  58 

XY.— Malta 63 

XYL-Smyrna 69 

XVIL— Constantinople 76 

XVIII —Street  Scenes 86 

XIX— At  the  Foot  Lights  in  Boston 96 

XX.— At  Home 97 

XXL— Oh  1  Law ! *  .        .  98 

XXIL— Things  at  "  Brady  and  Maurice's  "      .        .        .        .  98 

XXIIL— I  Start  for  California 1 03 

XXIY. — A  Strange  Adventure  at  the  Island  of  Tobogo    .        .  107 

XXY— Arrival  at  San  Francisco 112 

XXVI —Colonel  Stevenson's  Office  .        .        .        .        .114 

XXVII. — First  Concert  given  in  San  Francisco  ....  119 

XXVIIL— I  am  made  (Lord)  Mayor  of  N.  Y.  of  the  Pacific         .  121 

XXIX. — The  Auction  House  of  Massett  and  Brewster      .        .  126 

XXX.— A  Jolly  Dinner 132 

XXXL — The  First  Theatrical  Representation  in  Sacramento     .  135 


vi  Contents. 

PAQH 

XXXII.— The  Flood  of  1849  and  '50 138 

XXXIII. — "  Going — Going — Gone  I"  to  the  Sandwich  Islands    .  144 

XXXIV.— The  Way  they  Catch  Whales  in  the  Pacific         .        .  145 

XXXV. — The  Island  of  Lahaina 147 

XXXVI.— The  City  of  Honolulu,  S.  I 151 

XXXVII.— Arrive  again  at  San  Francisco 154 

XXXVIIL— I  turn  Editor      ........  155 

XXXIX— An  Editorial  Concert _    .  156 

XL.— The  Great  Fire— An  Incident  at  the  Bank .        .        .  157 

XLI. — Singular  Sensations  upon  re-visiting  England      .        .  159 

XLII. — My  First  Day  in  Liverpool 160 

XLI  II. — All  about  the  City  of  London 163 

XLIV— The  "  Fielding  "—Mr.  Thackeray,  etc.  165 
XLV. — Comical  Scenes  in  a  Police  Court        .        .        .        .166 

XL VI. — The  London  Showman .171 

XLV1I. — Punch  and  Judy 176 

XLVIII.— Something  about  London  Boys 179 

XLIX. — Kenilworth  Castle 180 

L. — Warwick  Castle 182 

LI. — Stratford-upon-Avon 184 

LIL— The  "  Garrick  Club  " ]89 

LIII. — The  Little  Chapel  in  Cannon  Street     .        .        .        .190 

L1V. — London  to  Paris 192 

LV. — Places  in  Paris  for  the  Stranger  to  See        .        .        .  193 

LVI. — Paris  Notes 194 

LVII. — The  French  Actor  Lemaitre 197 

LVIII. — An  Interview  with  a  Com  Doctor       ....  198 

LIX.— The  "  Notre  Dame  " 199 

LX. — Henri  Herz  Concert 200 

LXI. — Lyons 202 

LXII. — Marseilles 202 

LXIIL— Nice 203 

LXIV. — A  Reminiscence  of  Genoa 204 

LXV. — Civita  Vecchia — to  Rome 206 

LXVI. — A  Scene  to  be  Remembered 210 

LXVII. — Geneva 211 

LXVIIL — An  Interview  with  Braham  at  the  Age  of  Eighty-Five  221 

LXIX — All  about  "  Pipesville  " 226 

LXX— A  Pike  County  Wedding 235 

LXXL— Skedaddling  of  Bankers 237 

LXXIL — The  Panama  Railroad         ......  239 

LXXIII. — A  Bank  "  Bursts,"  and  I  lose  my  Money    .        .        .  240 

LXXIV. — My  Future  Course 240 

LXXV. — Some  of  the  Troubles  of  a  Wandering  Minstrel .        .  242 


Contents.  vii 

PAGK 

LXXVL— Lola  Montez 247 

LXXVIL— Oregon 247 

LXXVIIL— The  Columbia  River 249 

LXXIX.— Astoria 251 

LXXX.— A  Running  Trip  from  Portland  to  Corvalles— its  Perils.  253 

LXXXL— The  other  Land  of  Gold 259 

LXXXII. — An  Exciting  Occurrence  at  Savage  Island   in  the 

South  Pacific  Ocean 260 

LXXXIIL— Melbourne 266 

LXXXIV.— A  Christmas  Dinner  at  the  French  Consul's         .        .  270 

LXXXY.— Rambles  through  the  Colonies 272 

LXXXVL— How  I  got  to  my  Hotel 280 

LXXXVIL— On  the  Wing 281 

LXXXVIIL— Concert  Saloons 282 

LXXXIX.— My  Concert  in  Bendigo 283 

XC.— Sydney 290 

XCL— A  Visit  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum  at  Paramatta      .        .  294 

XCIL— I  meet  with  an  Old  Schoolfellow         ....  297 
XCIII. — I  am  Patronized  by  his  Excellency  the  Governor  and 

Suite 299 

XCIV.— Amusing  Letter  from  an  "Agent"      ....  300 

XCV.— Still  Moving  On 302 

XCVL— Off  for  India 304 

XCVIL— Bombay 306 

XCVIIL— A  Visit  to  the  Caves  of  Elephanta     ....  308 

XCIX. — Blowing  Away  from  the  Guns 311 

C— A  "Word  at  Parting 320 

CL—Calcutta 321 

CH. — I  meet  with  Captain  Hall  after  an  absence  of  Twenty 

Years 323 

CIIL— Streets— Hotels— eta,  etc.,  etc.  .        .        .        .        .  325 

CIV.— Voyage  from  Calcutta  to  Suez 326 

CV— Madras 326 

CVL— Aden 327 

CVIL— Suez 328 

CVIIL— Shepard's  British  Hotel 329 

CIX.—  Egypt 330 

CX— Something  about  the  Pyramids 332 

CXI.— About  Cotton 334 

CXIL— Alexandria 337 

CXIII.— Southampton      .        . 340 

CXIV. — London  once  again 341 

CXV.— The  Event,  and  what  Occurred 342 

CXVL— Mr.  Shirley  Brooks 345 


viii  Contents. 

PAGB 

CXYIL— The  Derby  Day 346 

CXVIII.— The  Garrick  Club 34T 

CXIX. — Charles  Dickens's  First  Reading  in  London          .        .  349 

CXX— The  Shakespeare  Dinner  at  the  Garrick  Club       .        .  350 

CXXI.— Hanging  at  the  Old  Bailey 351 

CXXII. — A  Visit  to  Doctors'  Commons,  London,  and  to  the  Sur- 
rogate's Office,  New  York.     The  Contrast    .        .  354 

CXXIIL— The  Hon.  Mrs.  Norton 357 

CXXIV— Leave  England  for  New  York 359 

CXXV.— A  Visit  to  Idlewild 359 

CXXVL— "Undercliff" 361 

CXXVI I.— Washington  Irving 362 

CXXVIIL— My  First  Concert  at  Niblo's 365 

CXXIX.— Henry  W.  Longfellow 365 

CXXX. — First  Concert  in  Boston 366 

CXXXL— Off  Again  to  California 367 


DRIFTING  ABOUT 


INTRODUCTION. 


Beginning  !  That's  the  diffi- 
culty. In  what  form  can  I 
weave  together  the  incidents 
of  travel  and  adventure,  the 
experiences  and  vicissitudes  of 
my  life  for  the  last  sixteen 
years? 

Take  a  seat,  my  kind  read- 
er! Taste  that  wine.  It's 
cheering  and  cheerful,  isn't 
it  ?  Light  a  cigar — or  you — 
Miss  or  Madame — sip  a  little 
tea  or  coffee,  imagine  your- 
self, pray,  in  a  position  of 
entire  repose,  and  listen  while 
I  recite  what  has  happened 
to  me  "  by  field  and  by  flood." 
I'll  try  not  to  bore  you.  The 
chapters  shall  be  short — and 
we  can  pause  when  you  choose. 
I  would  like,  above  all  things,  to  interest  and  amuse  you. 
I  will  try  to  give  advice  worth  nothing  to  those  who  may 


1 2  Introduction. 

hereafter  travel  over  the  same  lands  I  have  journeyed 
through.  I  am  told  that  the  Spaniards  have  a  proverb  to 
the  effect,  that  no  man  has  accomplished  anything  who  has 
not  begotten  a  son,  built  a  house,  or  written  a  book.  Despite 
my  numerous  and  persistent  efforts  to  become  a  respecta- 
ble married  man,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  filial  affection 
for  me,  but  I  can  boast  of  a  noble,  gorgeous,  and  architec- 
tural triumph,  which  is  expressed  in  the  musical  word 
"  PipesvMe."  You  will  find  out  all  about  that  achievement 
if  you  keep  me  company.  And  now  I  proceed  to  gratify 
some  one  who  exclaims,  "  Oh  that  mine  enemy  would 
write  a  book."  It  will  have  some  marked  peculiarities — it 
will  not  have  particular  '  style ' — because  I  know  nothing 
about  'style,'  except  getting  over  several  in  my  native 
country !  There  will  be  little  of  cohesion,  and  nothing  of 
vanity  in  the  composition.  '  What  I  jot  down  may  make 
some  laugh,  others  weep,  a  few  praise,  many  censure,  but 
no  one  will  be  injured  by  hearing  what  I  have  to  say. 

I  shall  not  rely  much  on  fancy,  I  am  going  to  deal  with 
facts,  turn  up  or  trump  up  what  may — funny  or  precocious, 
laughable  or  lugubrious,  pithy  or  puffy,  grave  or  gay. 

Persons  more  than  things,  shall  engage  my  attention. 

Header ! — I  mean  to  give  you  "  chat,"  bald,  disjointed 
chat — it  may  be,  or  chatter  as  some  may  complain.  So 
put  yourself  at  rest,  hearken,  be  good-natured,  let  me  shake 
your  hand,  exclaim  "  God  bless  you  " — and  then  begin — 

Now  Then — 


MY  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


In  the  summer  of  1837,  I,  then  a  small-sized  boy,  could 
have  been  seen  wending  my  way  to  the  St.  Katherine's 
Dock  in  the  good  old  City  of  London,  to  take  a  look  at 
the  ship  (which  happens  to  be  a  bark  by  the  way)  in  which 
I  had  taken  passage  for  New  York.  She  was  an  old  West 
Indiaman,  and  had  for  years  been  employed  in  ihe  Sugar 
trade.  Her  name  was  the  "  Hampton,"  and  the  Captain's, 
David  BaMerston.  Her  cabin  windows  projected,  in 
the  style  of  an  old  man-o'-war's-man,  she  had  a  high  poop 
deck,  large  portholes,  and  resembled  more  an  old  tub  than 


14  Drifting  About. 

anything  else  I  know  of.  I  shall  not  endeavor  to  draw 
upon  the  sensibilities  of  the  reader  by  endeavoring  to  depict 
the  grief  at  parting  with  relations  and  friends ;  or  by  de- 
scribing the  singular  sensations  I  experienced  in  driving, 
for  the  last  time  as  I  thought,  through  the  crowded  tho- 
roughfares of  my  native  city  in  a  "  Hansom  "  to  the  dock 
gates.  The  utter  uncertainty  of  the  future,  as  I  had  no 
fixed  object  in  view  upon  landing  in  America,  only  render- 
ed my  leaving  the  old  homestead  the  more  exciting ;  but 
the  picture,  even  after  a  lapse  of  twenty-three  years,  is  still 
present  with  me,  so  much  so,  that  I  shall  for  a  moment 
transfer  to  paper  the  little  scene  in  the  parlor  of  our  home, 
for  the  pleasures  of  memory  are  sometimes  painfully  sweet  I 
— when,  for  the  last  time  in  this  life,  I  heard  the  voice  of 
affectionate  counsel  of  a  father  and  a  sister.  The  "  God 
bless  you,  my  dear  boy,"  of  our  only  surviving  parent  (my 
beloved  mother  having  died  two  years  before),  as  the  tears 
coursed  down  his  wrinkled  face,  is  still  ringing  in  my  ears, 
and  as  he  placed  in  my  hand  a  little  memento  of  affection, 
and  with  trembling  voice  said,  "  may  the  Lord  preserve 
you,  and  keep  you  unto  his  heavenly  kingdom,"  it  seemed 
as  though  we  should  never  meet  again ;  and  it  was  with 
difficulty  that  I  could  control  my  feelings.  I  shall  never 
forget  the  look  of  my  sister — long  since  departed,  nor  her 
last  words ;  they  will  live  in  my  memory  for  ever.  The 
grave  has  closed  over  all  save  three  who  were  present  at 
that  farewell  gathering,  yet  still  I  cling  with  undying  tena- 
city and  affectionate  remembrance  to  this  last  scene  of  my 
youthful  home ;  and  can  but  hope  that  we  may  be  in  ano- 
ther world  reunited. 

The  peculiar  hurry  and  scurry  on  board  a  New  York 
and  London  Packet  Ship  in  olden  times,  is  so  happily  hit 
off  by  one  whose  name  I  have  forgotten,  that  I  am  tempted 
to  transcribe  it  from  some  manuscript  notes  I  have  by  me. 

The  seamen  as  usual  lighten  their  labor  with  song  and 
chorus,  and  the  one  they  sang  on  our  old  ship  was  pecu- 
liarly musical,  the  chorus  of  "  Old  Sally  Brown "  being 
given  by  the  whole  crew  with  great  emphasis.  I  took  my 
seat  on  the  upper  deck,  and  listened. 

"  Heave  away  there  forward." 

"Ay,  ay,  Sir." 


Drifting  About.  15 

[Sailors.]     "  Sally  Brown,  oh  my  dear  Sally, 

Oh  Sally  Brown.  [Chorus.] 

Sally  Brown  of  Bubble  Alley, 
Oh  Sally  Brown." 

*  Avast  heaving  there,  send  all  aft  to  clear  the  boat." 
"  Ay,  ay,  Sir,  where  are  we  to  ,stow  these  casks,  Mr. 

Fisher?" 

"  Stow  them,  Heaven  knows,  get  them  in  at  all  events." 
[  Woman's  voice.]     "  Captain  H.,  Captain  II.,  there's  my 

Piano  still  on  deck,  it  will   be   quite  spoiled,   indeed  it 

will !" 

"  Don't  be  alarmed,  Ma'am,  don't  be  alarmed,  as  soon  as 

we're  under  weigh,  we'll  hoist  the  cow  up  and   get   the 

Piano  down." 

"  What,  under  the  cow  ?" 

"  No,  Ma'am,  but  the  cow's  under  the  hatchway." 

M  Now  then,  my  lads,  forward  to  the  windlass." 

"  I  went  to  town  to  get  some  toddy, 
Oh  Sally  Brown, 
'Twasn't  fit  for  any  body 
Oh  Sally  Brown!" 

"  Out  there  and  clear  away  the  jib  !" 
"Ay,  ay,  Sir." 

"  Mr.  Fisher,  how  much  cable  is  there  out?" 
"  Plenty  yet,  Sir," — "  Heave  away,  my  lads." 

"  Sally  is  a  bright  Mullattar, 
Oh  Sally  Brown, 
Pretty  girl,  but  can't  get  at  her, 
Oh  Sally " 


"  Avast  heaving,  send  the  Man  up  to  whip  the  ladies 
in." 

"  Dear  me,  I  had  no  idea  they  did  such  horrible  things 
aboard  ship !" 

"  Now,  Miss,  only  set  down,  and  don't  be  afraid,  and 
you'll  be  in,  in  no  time.  Whip  away,  my  lads,  handsomely, 
steady  her  with  the  guy !" 

"  Oh  dear,  oh  dear !"     [woman.] 

"  There,  Miss,  now  you  re  safely  landed  /" 


*6  Drifting  About. 

[Woman.']     "  Landed  am  I,  I  thought  I  was  shipped  !" 
Very  good  indeed— very  good,  'Miss,  you'll  make  an 

excellent  sailor !" 

"  I  should  make  a  better  sailor's  wife,  I  guess,  Captain." 
"  Excellent,  allow  me  to  hand  you  aft — you'll  excuse 

me.     Forward  now,  my  men,  heave  away  I" 

11  Seven  years  I  courted  Sally, 
Oh  Sally  Brown, 
Seven  more  of  Shilly  Shally, 

Oh  Sally  Brown. 
She  won't  wed " 

"  Avast  heaving— up  there  and  loose  the  topsails,  stretch 
along  the  topsail  sheets ;  upon  my  soul— half  these  children 
will  be  killed,  whose  child  are  you  ?" 

[  Child.]     «  I— d— on't— know." 

il  Go,  and  find  out,  there's  a  dear !" 

"Let  fall — sheet  home— belay  starboard  sheet — clap  on 
the  larboard— belay  all  that.     Now  then,  Mr.  Fisher." 

"  Ay,  ay,  Sir— heave  away,  my  lads." 

"  She  won't  wed  a  Yankee  Sailor, 
Oh  Sally  Brown." 

"  Heave  away,  my  men— heave  and  in  sight.  Hurrah, 
my  lads." 

"  Sally  Brown— oh,  my  dear  Sally, 

Oh  Sally  Brown; 

Sally  Brown  of  Bubble  Alley, 

Oh  Sally  Brown ; 
Sally  was  a  cross  old  Granny, 
Oh » 

"  Heave  and  fall—jib  halyards.     Hoist  away !" 

[  Woman.]  "  Oh  dear,  oh  dear.  The  clumsv  brute  has 
half  killed  the  girl." 

11  Don't  cry,  my  dear." 

"Pick  up  the  child,  Tom,  and  shove  it  out  of  the  wav." 

[Tom.]     "  Where  shall  I  put  her  ?" 

"  Oh,  any  where  just  now,  put  her  into  the  Turkey 
Coop — " 

"  Starboard—" 


Drifting  About.  17 

"  I  say,  clap  on  some  of  you  he  chaps  or  else  get  out  of 
the  way." 

[  Woman.']     "  Sailor,  please  mind  my  bandbox." 

"  Starboard." 

"  Starboard  it  is — steady — so — ." 

Thus  with  the  trifling  matter  of  maiming  half-a-dozen 
children ;  upsetting  two  or  three  women ;  smashing  the 
lids  of  a  few  trunks ;  and  crushing  some  bandboxes  as  flat 
as  a  muffin,  the  ship  proceeded  on  her  voyage. 

Oh!  the  tediousness  of  this  first  voyage!  for  it  will 
scarcely  be  believed  that  we  were  95  days  in  reaching  New 
York ;  a  succession  of  calms,  head-winds,  strong  gales,  and 
indeed  every  variety  of  wind  and  weather  was  ours.  I 
think  it  was  about  the  end  of  August  that  we  entered  the 
harbor  of  Manhattan — the  day  a  lovely  one,  and  I  recol- 
lect distinctly  being  struck  by  the  brightness  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, the  gaiety  and  beauty  of  the  craft,  with  their  milk- 
white  sails,  that  covered  the  bay;  the  lovely  verdure  and 
bright  green  foliage  of  the  shore  on  each  side,  and  the 
general  bustle,  lightness,  jollity,  and  go-a-head-atives  that 
pervaded  everything,  and  everybody.  And  even  when  the 
"  Pilot "  jumped  on  board  and  put  a  "  New  York  Herald  " 
(a  small,  single  sheet  in  those  days !)  in  the  Captain's  hand, 
I  felt  that  I  could  know  him  in  five  minutes,  and  that 
without  an  introduction. 


II 

A  PEARL  STREET  BOARDING-HOUSE  IN   1837. 

We  landed,  if  I  remember  right,  at  Jersey  City,  and  I 
and  my  brother  Jack  crossed  over  in  a  steam  tug,  with  our 
traps,  to  the  foot  of  Coenties  slip,  from  thence  to  a  "  Board- 
ing House"  in  Pearl  street.  Well  do  I  remember  the  first 
dinner  in  our  temporary  American  home.  Two  long  din- 
ing tables,  covered,  with  a  white  cloth — that  only  wanted 
two  or  three  bodies  on  them  to  make  the  resemblance  very 
vivid  to  a  dissecting  room — half  a  dozen  great  big  white 
jugs  full  of  cold  water,  and  each  one  of  the  boarders  with  a 


18  Drifting  About 


to 


big  corn  cob  in  his  mouth.  The  meats  tasted  as  though 
they  had  been  all  cooked  at  the  same  time,  and  the  gravy, 
seemingly  a  decoction  of  oil  and  dripping,  was  ladled  out 
of  a  large  bowl,  and  would  have  certainly  done  more  justice 
to  the  operations  of  a  cart-wheel  than  to  the  organs  of  mas- 
tication. The  repast  wound  up  with  a  series  of  slices  of  flat 
pies  in  round  cans,  containing  brown  apples  smashed,  the 
"  crust"  of  the  institution  being  all  dough,  and  highly  fla- 
vored with  brown  paper  and  hot  tin. 

We  sat  down  to  dinner  at  one  o'clock,  and  at  a  quarter 
past  not  a  soul  was  to  be  seen ! 


III. 

MY  FIRST  SAUNTER  UP  BROADWAY. 

The  heat  was  intense  (it  was  the  month  of  August)  as  I 
strolled  up,  for  the  first  time,  this  celebrated  thoroughfare. 

In  those  days  the  trees,  with  their  bright  green  leaves 
and  waving  branches,  were  very  much  more  common,  mak- 
ing this  fashionable  promenade  picturesque  and  elegant. 
The  limit  of  my  walk  was  "White  street,"  whither  I  was 
bound  to  find  the  whereabouts  of  my  eldest  brother.  As  I 
turned  from  Wall  street  into  Broadway,  I  stood  for  a  mo- 
ment to  look  at  Old  Trinity,  and  read  some  of  the  inscrip- 
tions on  the  tombstones.  Broadway  was  full  of  life,  gaiety, 
and  sunshine.  "  Kip  and  Brown's"  and  "  Brower's"  stages, 
some  with  "  four  in  hand,"  were  rattling  up  and  down — 
the  fare  then  twelve-and-a-half  cents.  I  recollect  distinctly 
the  "  pump"  opposite  the  City  Hospital,  where  the  "  Gin- 
gerbread man"  used  to  wash  his  mouth,  the  Washington 
Hotel  (where  A.  T.  Stewart's  store  now  stands),  and  where 
I  first  met  my  esteemed  friend  Dr.  Carnochan  and  many 
others. 

The  Park  Theatre  (then  the  crack  house  of  amusement) 
was  pointed  out  to  me — the  City  Hall,  decidedly  the  most 
imposing  looking  edifice  I  had  yet  seen,  with  the  bright 
green  foliage  of  the  trees — the  Masonic  Hall,  where  Fanny 
Wright  used  to  lecture — the  Cafe  de  Mille  Colonnes  of  old 


Drifting  About.  19 

Palmo,  and  the  large  store  of  Venables  &  Co.  near  Cham- 
bers street. 


IV. 

SCENE  ON  A  CANAL  BOAT. 

In  the  latter  end  of  August  I  took  passage  in  the  steamer 
11  Swallow,"  Captain  McLean,  for  Albany.  The  scenery 
of  the  magnificent  Hudson  has  been  so  frequently  described 
by  tourists,  journalists,  and  others,  that  it  would  be  idle  for 
me  to  attempt  to  give  my  earliest  or  present  impressions. 
Never  having,  at  that  time,  seen  a  river  bigger  than  the 
Thames,  I  was  of  course  astounded  and  delighted  at  its 
magnitude,  and  charmed  by  the  variety,  richness,  and  gran- 
deur of  its  scenery. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Albany  I  took  passage  in  one  of  the 
11  Canal  Boats"  (my  stock  of  money  being  rather  limited) 
for  the  "  Queen  City  of  the  Lakes."  We  were  about  eight 
days  in  making  the  "  voyage,"  which  was  certainly,  to  me, 
a*very  novel  affair;  the  method  of  making  up  the  "cots" 
for  sleeping  purposes  being  particularly  amusing.  It  was 
something  in  the  following  style.  After  "supper"  was 
over,  three  rows  of  portable  cots,  attached  to  each  other  by 
ropes  swung  against  the  two  sides  of  the  boat,  resembling 
more  the  slats  in  a  baker's  oven  than  a  resting-place  for  the 
body,  and  then  the  passengers,  by  dint  of  sundry  gymnastic 
feats,  managed  to  crawl  into  their  holes.  The  heated  and 
close  air  soon  became  insufferable ;  so  I  determined  to  roll 
myself  up  in  a  blanket  and  lie  on  the  deck.  But  just  as  I 
had  made  up  my  mind  to  leave  my  place  of  baking,  the  cot 
above  me,  containing  a  big  fat  man  weighing  certainly  over 
three  hundred-weight,  gave  way,  falling  upon  me,  and  smash- 
ing me  almost  to  a  jelly.  I  gave  a  yell  which  aroused  all  the 
sleepers;  at  the  same  moment  the  "  skipper,"  who  was  steer- 
ing, called  out  "  Bridge,"  too  late,  however,  (the  night  being 
dark)  to  save  the  head  of  a  poor  "Paddy  from  Cork,"  who, 
ignorant  of  the  approaching  arch,  was  by  the  concussion 
sent  clean  overboard,  and,  but  for  the  shallowness  of  the 
stream,  would  have  been  instantly  drowned.     His  cries  of 


20  Drifting  About 

"  Blood  and  murther !"  and  such  like  delicate  exclamations, 
with  the  crash  in  the  cabin,  the  shrieks  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  rendered  the  place  a  perfect  pandemonium.  The 
relief  I  experienced  when  on  the  "  eighth  day  out"  the 
glittering  cupolas  of  the  city  of  Buffalo  greeted  me,  it  would 
be  difficult  to  describe. 


I  BECOME  A  LAW  STUDENT. 

I  HAD  been  in  Buffalo  about  a  month,  when  I  entered  the 
office  of  Mr.  Thomas  Jefferson  Nevins,  200  Main  street, 
exactly  opposite  the  Farmers'  Hotel,  then  (and  I  believe 
now)  kept  by  Philip  Dorsheimer,  the  present  State  Trea- 
surer. 

I  think  about  the  third  day  of  my  initiation  into  the  mys- 
teries of  "  Coke  upon  Littleton,"  I  was  directed  to  serve  a 
paper  upon  some  one  in  the  office  of  Fillmore,  Hall,  and 
Haven,  and  there  and  then  met  a  young  student,  named 
C ,  about  whom  I  shall  have  something  to  say  here- 
after. 

I  used  to  go  by  the  name  of  the  "  red-faced  little  English- 
man ;"  and  I  remember  Mr.  Fillmore  speaking  very  kindly 
to  me,  asking  me  sundry  questions  as  to  the  time  of  my 
being  in  America,  and  whether  I  intended  becoming  a  law- 
yer, and  was  assiduous  in  my  studies,  &c. 

I  do  not  think,  at  that  time,  he  ever  dreamed  of  being 
"  President  of  the  United  States." 

My  duties  were  not  very  arduous,  consisting  chiefly  of 
filling  in  several  blank  notices,  in  which  the  name  "  T.  E. 
Beers"  was  constantly  occurring,  the  only  suit  (excepting 
one  I  bought)  the  office  could  boast  of  for  many  months ; 
reading  occasionally  a  line  or  so  of  "  Blackstone's  Com- 
mentaries," varied  with  half  a  page  of  "  Kent,"  or  a  speech 
of  "  Charles  Phillips." 

At  intervals  I  began  to  study  Shakespeare,  and  it  ended 
in  my  learning  Richard  III.  by  heart,  portions  of  Othello, 
and  a  scene  or  so  from  Macbeth. 

About  this  time  "  Ben  Rathbun"  burst  up,  and  Buffalo 


Drifting  About.  21 

was  in  a  great  state  of  excitement  thereat.  A  paper  called 
the  "  Buffalonian"  was  started  by  a  Mr.  Arlington,  its  edi- 
tor and  proprietor,  who  was  imprisoned  in  the  Buffalo  Jail 
for  libel.  This  gentleman  afterwards  came  to  New  York, 
and  is  now  lecturing  on  Catholicism. 

Brown,  Buckland,  and  Co.  were  celebrated  bankers  in 
those  days,  and  were  decidedly  the  most  notable  men  about 
town.  They  had  a  private  box  at  the  theatre,  and  drove  a 
first-rate  team  on  the  macadamized  road.  Brown  died 
years  ago,  and  John  Buckland  married  the  beautiful  Miss 
Kate  Horn. 


VI. 

THE   EAGLE  STREET  THEATRE. 

The  first  play  I  saw  in  America  was  in  this  city ;  it  was 
Eichard  the  Third,  and  Mr.  Charles  H.  Eaton  was  the  hero 
of  the  night.  The  names  of  the  managers  were  Dean  and 
McKenny,  but  a  Mr.  Thompson  (an  Englishman)  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  the  internal  arrangements,  and  to  him  it 
was  that  I  was  indebted  for  an  occasional  "  order."  The 
first  opera  I  ever  saw  was  Cinderella,  with  Edwin  as  the 
Prince,  and  Miss  Melton  (sister  of  Charles  Walcot)  as  the 
Princess.  Among  the  performers  was  a  Miss  Powell,  a 
beautiful  English  girl,  who  afterwards  became  Mrs.  Charles 
Walcot. 

Here  I  first  saw  the  play  of  the  Lady  of  Lyons,  with 
Ellen  Tree  as  Pauline,  and  Mr.  Fredericks  as  Claude.  Mr. 
Fredericks  is,  I  believe,  at  present  in  the  city,  and  Miss 
Ellen  Tree,  as  all  the  world  knows,  has  long  since  been 
Mrs.  Charles  Kean  (whom  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  at 
a  party  in  London  in  1858,  just  twenty  years  afterwards !). 

It  is  useless  to  deny  the  fact,  that  I  became  seized  with  a . 
desire  to  "  go  upon  the  stage ;  and  the  great  amount  of 
time  I  had  upon  my  hands  gave  me  opportunities  for  stu- 
dying, thus  fanning  the  flame  which  I  fancied  would  bursty 
forth  and  electrify  everybody.  A  lot  of  young  students 
started  a  Thespian  Society,  and  our  first  performance  took 
place  on  the  Kremlin  Block.     The  play  was  (of  course) 


22  Drifting  About. 

Richard ;  I  enacting  the  "  crooked-backed  tyrant,"  and  ray 

friend  C ,  the  student,  Richmond.     Lady  Anne  was 

played  by  a  Mr.  O ,  and  the  Queen  by  another  limb  of 

the  law.  I  got  along  pretty  well  until  the  last  scene  with 
Richmond ;  but  as  with  the  words,  "  My  soul  and  body  on 
the  action  both,"  we  struck  the  usual  attitude  to  commence 
the  fight,  my  sword,  being  made  of  wood  covered  with  tin, 
snapped  in  two  pieces,  one  end  taking  effect  on  the  eye  of 
the  leader  of  the  "  orchestra,"  a  small-sized  boy,  who  imme- 
diately dropped  his  instrument  (a  broken-keyed  melodeon), 
and  ran  out  of  the  building  crying.  This  mishap,  of  course, 
killed  the  scene,  and  the  words,  "  Perdition  catch  my  arm," 
&c,  were  entirely  lost  in  a  whirlwind  of  laughter  and  shout- 
ing. The  comical  termination  of  the  play  rather  damped 
my  theatrical  ardor ;  and  when  it  became  known  to  our 
employers  that  we  belonged  to  an  association  of  the  kind, 
our  fun  was  at  an  end,  and  our  acting  days  and  nights 
numbered. 

Probably  one  of  the  most  exciting  incidents  of  the  year 
1838  that  occurred  in  Buffalo  was  the  burning  of  the 
steamer  Caroline  and  the  occupation  of  Navy  Island  by 
the  citizen  soldiery.  The  city  wore  a  very  military  aspect, 
the  English  were  denounced,  and  the  Buffalonians  were  ripe 
for  a  fight  with  John  Bull. 

A  mass  meeting  was  held  at  the  Theatre,  when  the  Cana- 
dian patriot  (?),  William  Lyon  Mackenzie,  addressed  the 
meeting,  together  with  Mr.  Seth  C.  Iiawley,  one  of  the  then 
leading  men  of  the  bar,  whose  remark  of  "Be  sure  you're 
right,  then  go  ahead,"  brought  down  from  the  sympathizers 
a  storm  of  applause.  The  streets  were  eternally  filled  with 
the  paradings  of  military  companies,  "  City  Guards"  were 
formed,  drums  and  fifes  and  bands  of  music  were  heard  from 
morning  to  night,  and  the  excitement  lasted  for  days. 

A  great  sensation  was  also  created  here  by  the  announce- 
ment in  the  daily  papers  of  the  arrival  at  New  York  of  the 
steamship  Sirius,  and  a  few  days  after  of  the  British  Queen, 
in  which  came  passengers  Madame  Vestris  and  Mr.  Charles 
Mathews. 

During  my  sojourn  in  Buffalo,  I  made  a  brief  trip  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  and  of  course  was  delighted ^  therewith. 


Drifting  About.  23 

They  have  been  described  so  graphically  and  minutely, 
from  time  immemorial,  that  I  shall  not  attempt  it ;  but  this 
I  confess :  my  first  impression  was  certainly  one  of  disap- 
pointment. I  had  imagined  the  fall  of  water  much  higher 
than  I  found  it,  fully  expecting  to  see  it  come  down  from 
the  clouds,  or  somewhere  in  that  vicinity. 


VII. 

DRIFTING. 

Thinking  the  chances  very  slim  of  my  ever  becoming 
distinguished  at  the  bar,  and  not  being  able  to  penetrate  at 
all  into  the  mysteries  of  Coke,  Kent,  Blackstone,  or  "  any 
other  man,"  I  left  the  handling  of  law  books,  foolscap,  and 
red  tape,  for  the  counting-house  of  a  "  forwarding  mer- 
chant "  on  the  Dock,  by  name,  Mr.  A.  H.  Scoville ;  a  de- 
lightful person,  by  the  way,  who  treated  me  most  kindly, 
and,  as  far  as  his  means  would  permit,  liberally. 

The  store  was  very  long  and  my  duties  very  short.  My 
u  boss "  was  supposed  to  sell  flour  on  commission,  and  I 
think,  when  I  arrived  to  take  charge  of  the  "  books  "  and 
keep  the  cash,  there  were  just  four  barrels  at  one  end  of  the 
store,  which  was  about  100  feet  deep.  This  struck  me  as 
being  rather  a  light  stock;  but  I  had  an  accompanying  sen- 
Bation  of  consolation  that  my  duties  as  "  bookkeeper  " 
would  be  proportion  ably  easy.     My  inward  feeling  of  hor- 


24  Drifting  About. 

ror  at  the  idea  of  "opening  a  set  of  books"  (excepting 
Scott's,  Bulwer's,  or  Cooper's  novels),  can  be  imagined  by 
the  reader,  when  I  inform  him  that  when  running  up  a 
column  of  figures,  the  result  was  always  entirely  different 
from  the  running  down;  and  that  as  to  what  should  go  to 
the  "Dr."  and  what  should  go  to  the  "Cr."  side  of  the 
"  Cash"  or  "  Day"  Book,  I  was  in  a  state  of  blissful  igno- 
rance. My  "  boss"  was  an  extremely  pleasant,  kind-hearted 
man,  and  came  to  my  relief  like  a  good  fellow,  when  the 
momentous  time  arrived  for  me  to  make  the  first  (and  I 
believe  the  last)  entry.  I  happened  to  write  a  good  hand, 
and  this  was  half  the  battle,  and  my  employer  was  only  too 
happy  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  day,  usually  passed  in 
"  whittling,"  walking  the  dock,  or  chewing  tobacco,  by 
doing  the  "cyphering"  portion  of  the  books.  Business  did 
not  "look  up,"  and  my  boss  and  his  solitary  clerk  looked 
"  down."  My  brother  had  written  from  New  York  that  he 
had  a  situation  as  assistant  bookkeeper,  collector,  &c.,  in  a 
large  carpet  warehouse.  I  packed  up  my  "  duds,"  bade 
goo*d-bye  to  many  kind  friends  in  Buffalo,  and  landed,  in 
the  summer  of  '39,  once  again  in  Gotham,  and  immediately 
made  for  the  store  of  Thomas  L.  Chester,  203  Broadway. 

Here  I  went  duly  to  work  as  out-door  clerk,  and  occa- 
sionally salesman.  I  was  here  about  a  year  and  a  half, 
during  which  time  a  few  singular  incidents  occurred.  I 
will  mention  one  or  two. 

I  was  living  for  a  short  time  at  the  Broadway  Hotel,  112 
Broadway,  kept  by  Cotter  &  Leveret,  and  being  extremely 
fond  of  music,  and  having  a  pretty  'good  voice,  was  intro- 
duced to  and  "  patronized  "  by  several  musical  celebrities. 
At  this  hotel  I  first  met  Mr.  Giubelei,  the  then  celebrated 
basso  of  the  Park  Theatre,  who,  with  his  wife,  and  Miss 
Poole,  were  singing  then  in  opera,  together  with  Mrs.  Mar- 
ty n  (nee  Miss  Inverarity)  and  Mr.  Marty n,  and  Mr.  Man- 
vers  (the  latter  now  in  England). 

Many  pleasant  walks  had  I  with  the  "  pretty  little  Miss 
Poole  "  on  the  Battery,  winding  up  with  a  cozy  little  gouter 
at  the  Hotel  Francaise,  near  Peter  Harmony's,  on  Broad- 
way. Mr.  Giubelei  frequently  gave  me  "  orders,"  and  once 
or  twice  I  was  admitted  behind  the  scenes.  I  was  delighted; 
and  Theatre  Alley,  with  the  "stage-door"  entrance,  had 


Drifting  About.  25 

many  more  charms  for  me  than  a  lounge  on  the  Fifth 
Avenue  has  to-day. 

At  a  concert  at  the  City  Hotel,  given  by  Mr.  Charles  E. 
Horn,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced  by  him  to  the 
author  of  "  Woodman,  spare  that  tree,"  General  George  P. 
Morris.  Upon  the  occasion  referred  to,  Mrs.  C.  E.  Horn 
sang,  for  the  first  time  in  New  York,  the  "  Northern  Ee- 
frain,"  or  "  Through  the  streets  of  New  York  city,"  a  little 
chimneysweep's  carol,  written  by  General  Morris.  The 
song  was  a  great  success,  being  enthusiastically  encored, 
and,  when  published,  met  with  an  extraordinary  sale.  In 
those  days  I  was  very  young,  and  proportionally  modest, 
and  was  very  much  taken  by  the  "General's"  kind  and 
genial  manner  in  shaking  hands  with  me ;  little  dreaming 
then  that  /  should  ever  in  public  sing  his  songs,  or  be  cri- 
ticized by  him  in  his  Journal.  I  shall  take  the  liberty  of 
referring  again  to  this  genial  and  delightful  song  writer. 

In  this  year  the  opera  of  Amilie,  or  the  Love  Test,  was 
produced  at  the  National  Theatre  in  Leonard  street,  under 
the  management  of  the  veteran  James  W.  Wallack,  of*this 
city.  There  was  a  dress  rehearsal  one  Saturday  night,  and 
I  had  a  card  of  admission.  The  vocalists  engaged  had 
recently  arrived  from  England.  Their  names  were  Miss 
Jane  ShirrerT,  Mr.  Wilson,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Edward 
Seguin. 

The  stage  was  lighted  up,  chairs  were  placed  for  the 
"  principals,"  and  when  the  time  came  for  the  aria,  "  My 
boyhood's  home,"  on  walked  Mr.  Seguin,  in  his  rough 
pea  jacket,  as  if  just  from  sea,  and  with  his  magnificent 
voice  charmed  every  one  present  by  the  rendering  of  this 
popular  melody.  The  opera  was  a  great  success,  and  ran 
for  many  consecutive  nights,  and  the  "trio,"  particularly 
"  Ned  Seguin,"  were  for  a  long  time  the  pets  of  the  public. 

About  this  time,  also,  Mr.  Washington  Coster,  (who  then 
resided  at  61  White  street,  his  sleeping  apartment  being 
now  used  as  the  publication  office  of  "  Porter's  Spirit,"  and 
his  once  upon  a  time  gorgeous  parlor  now  the  shop  of  a 
German  tailor,)  recently  returned  from  Paris,  created  quite 
a  sensation  among  the  beau  monde,  by  the  introduction  in 
Broadway  of  an  open  style  of  "  Landau,"  in  which  he,  his 
beautiful  wife,  and  lovely  children,  used  to  ride.     He  was 


26  Drifting  About. 

quite  a  remarkable-looking  man,  with,  long  flaxen  hair,  fall- 
ing over  his  shoulders,  mounted  by  a  broad-rimmed,  oval- 
shaped  blaek  hat.  Dandy  Marx  was  also  one  of  the  nota- 
bles, as  was  also  George  L.  Pride,  whom  the  Herald,  in  one 
of  its  sketchy,  descriptive  articles,  dubbed  the  "  Pride  of 
the  Road."  These  gentlemen,  and  their  establishments, 
were  all  lithographed  by  a  Mr.  Baker,  of  Wall  street,  (now 
the  efficient  Fire  Marshal,)  and  the  caricatures  created  a 
great  commotion,  and  caused  much  amusement  about 
town. 

My  first  legitimate  theatrical  sensation  was  at  the  National 
Theatre,  in  1839,  when  I  was  entranced  and  delighted  with 
the  representations  of  Mr.  Edwin  Forrest  in  Richelieu  and 
King  Lear  ;  and  at  the  present  writing,  though  twenty  years 
have  intervened,  the  impressions  of  my  youth  remain. 

I  have  recently  seen  this  distinguished  actor,  in  the  cha- 
racters above  referred  to,  at  Niblo's  Garden,  under  the 
management  of  Mr.  William  Wheatley ;  and  although,  on 
the  one  hand,  as  my  ancient  friend  Mrs.  Malaprop  observed, 
"  Comparisons  are  odorous,"  and,  on  the  other,  I  have  no 
intention  of  being  invidious  or  personal,  I  conceive  the 
genius  of  this  great  actor,  in  these  impersonations,  towers 
so  immeasurably  above  the  efforts  of  all  others  I  have  seen, 
that  it  is  simply  ridiculous  to  place  them  in  the  same 
category. 

In  those  days  the  Battery  was  the  fashionable  prome- 
nade, and  in  the  summer  months,  from  four  to  six  and 
seven,  the  lower  part  of  Broadway  was  filled  with  beautiful 
and  gaily-dressed  women  and  handsome  men,  wending  their' 
way  to  the  Bowling  Green,  to  enjoy  the  cooling  breezes 
and  Shady  walks  of  the  dear  old  Battery.  I  know  that  I 
caught  the  "  fever,"  and  upon  the  slightest  provocation,  in 
the  shape  of  a  request  to  go  and  collect  a  bill,  or  do  any 
"  out-door  "  business,  I  would  find  time  to  pay  my  respects 
to  this  favorite  locality.  Besides,  I  fear  I  must  briefly  in- 
form thee,  my  patient  reader,  that  about  these  days  a  pair 
of  hazel  eyes  had  made  fearful  havoc  with  my  young  and 
tender  heart  and  affections,  and  it  was  in  daily  expectation 
of  receiving  a  pleasant  smile  or  nod  from  my  inamorata 
that  I  hurried  my  way  thitherward.  Twenty  years  ago ! 
how  changed  the  scene  !     Then  the  nicely-gravelled  walks, 


Drifting  About.  27 

(the  centre  one  was  my  favorite,)  the  shady  branches 
of  the  trees  waved  on  high  their  "  plumes  of  green" — though 
the  "  worms"  that  hung  from  them  were  rayther  annoying 
— the  bright  waters  of  the  bay,  with  a  fleet  of  craft  of  every 
name  and  size  floating  on  its  bosom,  and  Castle  Garden, 
with  its  bath-houses  and  refreshment  saloons,  all,  all,  crowd 
upon  my  memory  with  the  most  vivid  and  delightful  recol- 
lections and  associations.  Now  a  dreary  and  desolate  waste, 
is  this  once  upon  a  time  fashionable  resort,  and  a  Depot  for 
Emigrants  reigns  where  the  Baths  of  Dr.  Eabineau  invited 
the  swimmers,  or  the  dulcet  tones  of  Jenny  Lind  were  first 
heard. 

The  fashionable  music  stores  and  lounges  for  musical  peo- 
ple, at  the  date  I  am  writing,  were  Atwill's  Music  Saloon,  at 
the  sign  of  the  Golden  Lyre,  201  Broadway  ;  Millett's, 
Broadway  (Mr.  Millet  still  remaining  in  the  same  store) ; 
Firth  and  Hall,  Franklin  square ;  and  Davis  and  Horn,  of 
Broadway. 

The  first  establishment,  being  next  door  to  my  place  of 
business,  I  quickly  became  acquainted  with  its  proprietor, 
Mr.  Joseph  F.  Atwill,  (now  and  for  a  long  time  past  a  resi- 
dent of  California,)  and  many  a  delightful  hour  was  passed 
by  me  there,  and  I  was  thus  brought  into  immediate  con- 
nexion, if  not  intimacy,  with  numbers  of  musical  people. 

Among  the  celebrities  that  in  the  year  1840  flashed  for  a 
while  upon  the  musical  horizon,  and  who  were  daily  to  be 
seen  at  Joe  Atwill's,  were  Braham,  Joseph  Philip  Knight, 
(the  author  of  "  She  wore  a  wreath  of  roses,")  Signer  De 
Begnis,  Henry  Bussell,  Mrs.  Edward  Loder,  Mrs.  Sutton, 
(an  American  prima  donna,)  Madame  Dolores  de  Goni 
(guitarist),  and  Mr.  Henry  C.  Watson,  a  young  English 
musician  and  composer,  who  has  since  made  his  mark  as 
one  of  the  very  best  critics  of  this  city,  and  who  was  the 
arbiter  of  matters  musical  in  the  old  times  of  the  Albion, 
the  Evening  Signal,  and  the  New  World. 

Here  very  often  was  to  be  seen  a  handsome,  rosy-cheeked, 
dark-haired,  sailor-looking  fellow,  who  used  to  delight  me 
by  the  off-hand  and  brilliant  manner  of  his  "  touch"  at  the 
piano,  and  it  was  not  long  before  we  "froze"  to  each  other, 
ne  being  pleased  with  my  singing,  I  with  his  playing,  and 
there  are  many  alive  now  who  will  remember  the  kind- 


28  Drifting  About. 

hearted,  jolly,  and  good-natured  "Jack  Poole,"  with  a  tear 
of  regret ;  for  he  was  lost  in  the  steamer  Erie,  with  three 
hundred  others,  which  was  burnt  on  the  lake  of  that  name 
about  this  period.  John  Poole  was  distinctly  a  musical 
genius ;  for  without  the  slightest  knowledge  of  the  art,  or 
acknowledging  any  method,  he  would  rattle  off  the  most 
brilliant  and  original  compositions,  consisting  principally 
of  waltzes,  polkas,  &c,  and  went  so  far  as  to  publish  a  set, 
called  the  Amaranth  Waltzes,  which  became  quite  the  rage, 
dedicated  to  Miss  Mary  Jones,  a  great  belle  at  that  time. 
My  friend  Colonel  Jim  Burnham  (afterwards  City  Marshal) 
will  remember  the  pleasant  evening  we  had  with  poor  John 
Poole  at  a  family  gathering  in  the  "old  homestead"  on  the 
Bloomingdale  road. 

The  Tabernacle,  in  Broadway,  and  the  Apollo  Rooms, 
were  the  fashionable  places  where  concerts  were  given. 

On  the  first  night  of  the  veteran  Braham's  appearance  in 
America,  it  rained  in  torrents;  but,  in  spite  of  wind  and 
weather,  the  Tabernacle  was  crowded  to  overflowing.  He 
was  assisted  by  Mrs.  Edward  L'oder,  as  the  principal  lady 
vocalist,  who  chose  this  occasion  to  present  herself  for  the 
suffrages  of  the  New  York  public.  Mrs.  Loder's  classical 
method  and  sweet  voice  were  greatly  appreciated  by  the 
audience ;  and  for  many  years  she  was  one  of  the  leading 
features  of  the  concerts  given  in  this  city;  certainly,  no 
sacred  concert  seemed  complete  without  the  appearance  of 
this  lady.  I  remember  a  remark  that  Braham  made,  upon 
her  observing  to  him  that  she  thought  he  appeared  "  a  little 
nervous,"  and  that  she  was  surprised  that  he,  who  for  more 
than  half  a  century  had  appeared  before  audiences  in  every 
part  of  the  world,  should  exhibit  any  agitation  upon  a  first 
appearance  in  America : — "  Ah,  my  dear  madam,  it  is  ap- 
pearing before  a  nation  for  the  first  time."  Braham  sang 
with  all  his  former  fire  and  vigor,  and  his  debut  was  highly 
successful.  He  sang  "  Martin  Luther's  Hymn,"  with  trum- 
pet accompaniment  of  the  celebrated  John  T.  Norton,  and 
"  Comfort  ye,  my  people,"  from  the  Messiah.  The  tickets 
were  one  dollar  each,  and  the  Tabernacle  crowded  to 
suffocation. 

At  the  Park  Theatre,  in  this  year,  Power,  the  Irish 
actor,  was  in  all  his  glory ;  filling  the  house  nightly,  and 


Drifting  About.  29 

delighting  everybody.  It  was  in  1840  that  be  left  New- 
York  in  the  ill-fated  steamship  President;  and  I  well 
remember  seeing  him  in  Wall  street,  whither  I  had  gone  to 
collect  an  account  at  the  Banking-house  of  Prime,  Ward, 
and  King,  then  the  great  guns  in  the  banking  line ;  and 
Power,  with  his  hat  a  little  cocked  on  the  side  of  his  head, 
and  a  closely  buttoned  coat  with  fur  collar,  was  chatting 
with  John  Povey  on  the  corner  of  William  street.  Curio- 
sity led  me  to  the  steamer,  and  I  saw  poor  Power  go  up 
the  plank,  shaking  hands  with  many  friends  who  had  come 
to  bid  him  good-bye.  I  particularly  noticed  a  very  me- 
lancholy expression  in  his  face,  and  I  believe  he  remarked 
to  an  intimate  acquaintance  that,  when  it  came  to  the  point 
of  starting,  he  did  not  care  to  leave,  or  words  to  that  effect. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  the  steamer  returned  after  an 
absence  of  a  day  or  so,  some  accident  having  occurred  to 
the  machinery,  and  left  again  never  to  be  seen  or  heard  of 
more !  Power  had  with  him  in  cash,  $50,000,  the  results 
of  his  engagements  in  America,  and  I  believe  it  was  his 
intention  to  pass  the  remainder  of  his  days  in  retirement. 


VIII. 

A    PULL    AND    TRUE    ACCOUNT    OF    MY    FIRST    AND  LAST 
DEPOSIT  IN  A  SAVINGS  BANK. 

In  this  year,  I  "  opened,"  I  think  they  call  it,  an  account 
at  the  Chambers  street  Savings  Bank.  By  dint  of  extraor- 
dinary exertion,  and  depriving  myself  of  many  luxuries,  I 
Ead  managed  to  save  up  some  $16  in  hard  cash.  Now, 
I  had  been  informed  when  quite  a  small  boy,  that  if  I  only 
commenced  to  save  my  coppers  and  deposit  them  in  bank, 
by  the  time  I  was  one-and-twenty  those  coppers  would,  by 
some  wonderful  system  of  "  hocus  pocus,'  amount  to  a 
small  fortune.  The  famous  motto,  "  take  care  of  the  pence, 
and  the  pounds  will  take  care  of  themselves,"  had  not  only 
been  stuck  up  in  every  nook  and  corner  of  our  house,  and 
written  in  large  text  hand  in  my  copy-books,  but  seemed — 
so  strongly  was  it  engraven  on  my  memory — to  have  been 


30  Drifting  About. 

sandwiched  with,  every  piece  of  bread  and  butter  I  had 
taken,  from  my  school-boy  days  and  upwards. 

It  was,  therefore,  that  on  a  bright  summer  afternoon, 
about  the  hour  of  two,  I  wended  my  way  from  Chester's  car- 
pet store,  203  Broadway  (now  the  gorgeous  head-quarters 
of  liegeman  &  Co.,  the  druggists,  the  house  with  which  my 
old  friend  Harry  King  has  been  so  long  connected),  to 
the  Chambers  street  Savings  Bank,  with  a  roll  of  dirty 
one  dollar  bank-notes  in  one  hand,  and  a  lot  of  carpet  bills 
for  collection  in  the  other. 

I  arrived  at  the  portals  of  the  institution,  trembling  from 
head  to  foot  with  the  frightful  responsibility  of  my  posi- 
tion, and  with  shaky  fingers,  counting  over  and  over 
again,  the  greasy  pieces  of  paper,  taking  my  place  among 
files  of  chambermaids,  cooks,  waiters,  carmen,  mechanics, 
young  and  old,  fat  and  thin,  clean  and  dirty. 

I  think  it  was  about  four  o'clock  before  my  time  came. 

Arrived  at  the  hole  and  looking  through  some  wire  gra- 
ting, I  beheld  an  elderly  gentleman  with  a  very  bald  head, 
seated  on  a  very  high  stool,  having  on  the  top  of  his  very 
red  nose  a  pair  of  the  largest  kind  of  spectacles. 

I  managed  to  get  off  the  fact,  that  I  wished  to  open  an 
account  there,  to  which  he  replied,  in  a  very  gruff  and 
disagreeable  voice, — 

"  Well,  sir!  what's  the  amount?"  To  which  I  hesi- 
tatingly replied,  "  $16  sir." 

Gruntingly,  "  $16?  that  all?"  (Here  an  audible  titter 
from  two  or  three  of  the  clerks,  and  instantly  caught  up  by 
the  whole  row  of  depositors,  made  me  so  nervous  that  I 
nearly  fainted,  and  I'd  have  given  all  the  world  if  I'd  been 
owfeiae  instead  of  in  !) 

In  a  book  about  the  size  of  a  Chinese  trunk,  with  a  cou- 
ple of  brass  clasps,  as  big  as  the  hinges  of  St.  Paul's  church 
door,  the  fatal  entry  was  made ;  and  in  another  book,  of 
not  quite  so  large  dimensions,  another  entry  was  made,  and 
the  last  book  handed  to  me  with  the  request  that  I  would 
always  bring  it  when  making  any  future  deposits ! 

This  I  faithfully  promised  to  do.  These  proceedings 
seemed  to  take  an  age. 

How  I  made  my  way  out  of  the  bank  I  know  not — but, 
upon  gaining  the  street,  I  felt  my  penniless  situation,  and 


Drifting  About.  31 

bitterly  regretted  the  step  I  had  taken.  I  awoke  in  the 
morning  feeling  certain  the  bank  would  break.  When  sent 
out  to  collect  a  bill  of  carpeting,  I  invariably  walked  down 
Chambers  street  to  see  if  the  Institution  had  not  closed ; 
and  every  alarm  of  fire  set  me  in  a  high  fever. 

This  suspense  took  away  my  appetite.  I  must  feign  sick- 
ness or  a  death  in  the  family,  or  a  journey  westward,  or 
something — but  the  money  I  must  have — though  I  felt 
perfectly  ashamed  to  go  in,  and  get  it 

What  would  the  man  in  the  spectacles  say  ?  what  would 
he  do  ?  why  he  would  wither  me  with  a  look !  but  get  it 
out  T  must ;  and  in  I  went,  wondering  all  the  time  what 
excuse  I  should  give  him. 

The  money  had  been  in  the  bank  I  think  forty-eight 
hours — perhaps  a  little  more  perhaps  a  little  less — and  after 
wasting  a  quire  of  paper  in  trying  to  get  out  what  the  sim- 
ple, or  the  compound  interest,  or  both  would  be,  at — I 
didn't  know  how  much  per  cent,  per  annum — I  found  my- 
self at  the  dreaded  hole  with  the  wire  round  it. 

To  the  interrogatory,  "  What  is  it,  Sir?" 

T  feebly  replied  that  I  had  a  little  "  account  to  settle" 
with  him! 

Now  whether  the  old  cock  thought  I  was  going  to  punch 
him  in  the  eye  or  throw  something  at  him  through  the  little 
hole,  I  know  not,  but  he  involuntarily  drew  back,  saying, 

"  I  don't  understand  you,  Sir !" 

"  Well,  Sir,"  said  I,  "  the  fact  is,  Sir,  I  deposited  some 
money  here  the  other  day  (all  this  time  the  people  were 
crowding  and  pressing  in,  the  heat  was  intense,  and  I  in  a 
perfect  vapor  bath  of  excitement),  and  in  consequence  of 
a  large  death  in  our  small  family.  Sir,  I  have  to  go  to  sea." 

"  See  what,  Sir  ?     I  don't  comprehend  you,  Sir !" 

H  No,  no,  Sir !  I  mean  a  sea  voyage,  Sir.  I  want  the 
money  for  an  outfit,  Sir ;  to  pay  my  passage  to  Rhode 
Island,  Sir ;  where  the  ship  is,  Sir." 

Oh  Lor !  I  was  nearly  fainting,  but  I  then  intended  to 
"  stick  it  out." 

With  a  look  of  perfect  contempt  at  me  over  his  specks, 
that  haunted  me  for  years  afterwards,  he  fumbled  over  the 
leaves  of  his  big  book  with  the  clasps,  came  to  the  unfor- 
tunate letter  "  M,"  and  with  pointed  finger  at  the  'Wretched 


32  Drifting  About. 

item  (I  saw  from  the  top  my  name  in  large  letters  occupy- 
ing the  two  entire  sheets),  gave  a  "  click"  with  the  pen, 
went  to  the  drawer,  and  counting  out  the  sixteen  dollars, 
added,  with  a  sneer,  that  there  was  just  one  cent  interest  due 
me! 

Then,  with  a  look  of  intense  disgust  at  me  and  my  red 
face,  he  very  impertinently,  I  thought,  suggested,  that  the 
next  time  I  made  a  deposit  in  a  banking  house  I  should 
have  something  to  put  in  it ! 


IX. 

MORE  FUNNY  SCENES. 

When  my  outdoor  duties  were  over,  it  was  the  wish  of 
my  emplo}Ter  that  I  should,  as  he  called  it,  "lay  hold  of" 
the  customers,  particularly  if  we  were  short  of  salesmen, 
or  if  they  were  engaged.  Now  I  must  premise  that  my 
knowledge  of  the  different  varieties  of  carpet  was  about  as 
clear  and  lucid  as  my  arithmetical,  and  accordingly  I  was  all 
the  while  making  mistakes  in  the  different  qualities. 

One  of  these  occasions  I  distinctly  remember.  A  lady 
alighted  from  her  carriage,  and  there  being  at  the  time  no 
one  in  the  store,  I,  of  course,  did  the  bidding  of  my  "  boss," 
and  laid  hold  of  her,  that  is  to  say,  I  asked  her  the  style  of 
carpet  she  wished  to  look  at.  "  Super  ingrain,"  said  she. 
"  Step  this  way  if  you  please,  Mum,"  said  I ;  upon  which 
I  asked  Michael,  the  porter,  to  show  the  lady  a  "  roll"  of, 
what  I  supposed,  the  latest  pattern  of  "  ingrain."  The  lady 
was  delighted,  the  pattern  was  charming,  and  she  ordered 
sixty  yards,  the  price  being  eight  shillings  and  sixpence  a 
yard.  I  immediately  rushed  to  the  order-book,  feeling  quite 
proud  that  I  had  actually  made  a  sale,  and  feeling  also  an 
inward  conviction  that  my  salary  would  be  instantly  raised. 
The  carpet  was  cut  off,  and  actually  in  the  cart,  when,  to 
my  horror  and  astonishment,  the  "  Col,"  as  we  called  the 
head  of  the  house,  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  departing  drug- 
get, and  calling  out  to  the  carman  to  bring  it  back,  ex- 


Drifting  About. 


33 


claimed,  "  Why,  who  the  devil's  been  selling  •  Super  Royal 
Wilton'  for '  Ingrain  ?'  Is  that  you,  Sir  ?"  said  he,  addressing 
me.  I  remarked,  "  that  I  was  directed  to  '  lay  hold  of  the 
customers,  and  in  doing  so  had  committed  the  unpardon- 
able sin  of  selling  a  three  dollar  and  fifty  cents  a  yard  carpet 
for  one  that  would  cost  only  eight  shillings  and  sixpence  !" 
It  was  in  vain  for  me  to  plead  ignorance  of  the  different 


varieties  or  qualities, 
stupid  ass,"  and  J  " 
tion  of  everybody 


I  was  looked  upon, 
several  degrees  lower 


and  called  u  a 
in  the  estima- 


I  recollect  upon  another  occasion,  a  man  came  in  to  look 
at  one  of  Hare  &  Son's  oil  cloths  ;  this  was  to  me  perfectly 
distressing,  for  I  never  could  get  "  the  hang"  of  the  differ- 
ence between  a  u  square"  and  a  "  running"  yard,  and  many 
a  sheet  of  paper  have  I  wasted  in  endeavoring  to  under- 
stand the  mystery. 

He  selected  the  cloth,  and  wished  to  know  (giving  me 
the  length  and  breadth  of  his  entry)  how  many  running  or 
square  yards  it  would  require,  and  how  much  the  square  or 
the  running  yard  was !     I  was  nervous  to  a  degree  and 


34  Drifting  About. 

perspiring  from  head  to  foot,  my  moist  fingers  bedaubing 
the  paper  with  blotches  of  ink,  and  upon  the  inquiry  of  my 
employer  as  to  what  I  made  it,  I  found  the  paper  covered 
with  caricatures  and  all  sorts  of  "figures"  but  the  right 
ones.  My  brother  came  to  my  relief  and  I  incontinently 
"  sloped." 

Whether  it  was  in  this  year  or  not  I  do  not  remember, 
but  somewhere  about  this  time  my  head  was  felt  by  the 
celebrated  Mr.  Coombe,  and  he  told  me  that  I  had  not  the 
bump  of  "  calculation,"  that  I  might  possibly  know  that 
2  and  2  made  4,  but  I  could  never,  by  any  possible  chance, 
learn  the  multiplication  table. 

The  only  article  in  the  store  that  I  felt  at  all  easy  in 
offering  for  sale  was  "  binding ;"  this  being  only  sixpence 
a  yard  T  could  manage  to  get  through  my  thick  head  the 
price  of  any  moderate  number  of  yards..  My  success  was 
really  great  in  "getting  off"  this  valuable  article. 

One  warm  day  in  summer,  I  was  standing  alone  in  the 
store,  when  in  walked  a  little  man  very  seedily  dressed, 
with  a  very  unsteady  gait,  a  glassy  look  of  the  eye,  and 
compressed  lips.  He  caught  hold  of  the  railing  that  sur- 
rounded the  desk,  and  looking  me  straight  in  the  eye,  said, 
u  Do — you — know — who — I  am — .young — man  ?"  I  re- 
plied, u  that  I  had  not  the  honor."  "  N — o — r  didshe — 
never — she — me — afore  ?"  "  No  sir,"  I  said.  "  Well — 
shir — my  names — Booth — and  I  wish — look  at  sucar- 
pits."  "  With  pleasure,  sir."  I  was  about  to  explain  the 
different  styles,  when,  to  my  surprise,  he  abruptly  turned 

round,  and  growled  out  that  he'd  see  me first,  slammed 

the  door  and  left. 

There  are  a  good  many  who  will  remember  "Jim  Grant," 
the  Ann  street  barber.  I  was  first  taken  there  by  a  coun- 
tryman of  mine,  shortly  after  my  arrival  from  England,  it 
being  the  best  place,  I  was  informed,  to  have  my  hair  cut, 
in  the  city.  Mr.  J.  Gr.  Bennett  was  among  his  regular 
patrons,  and  I  believe  for  years  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  one 
of  "  Jimmy's"  best  shaves.  Well,  it  was  in  this  identical 
shop  that  I  met  a  gentleman  one  evening,  to  whom  I  had 
been  previously  introduced,  who,  as  will  shortly  appear, 
had  a  great  deal  to  do  in  changing  the  whole  current  of  my 
life,  and  directing  my  young  thoughts  to  matters  not  at  all 


Drifting  About.  35 

allied  to  my  duties  as  clerk  in  a  carpet  store.  Turning  to 
me  he  said,  "  I  heard  you  sing  '  My  Boyhood's  Home' 
devilish  well  the  other  evening — you've  got  a  capital  voice 
and  ought  to  make  (excuse  the  joke)  capital  out  of  it !  Why 
don't  you  go  on  the  stage?" 

My  first  impression  was,  that  my  friend  was  poking  fun 
at  me,  or  perhaps  I  had  not  heard  distinctly,  and  he  had 
asked  me  to  ride  up  in  a  stage.  The  reply  I  made,  I  for- 
get, but  it  ended  in  our  strolling  up  Broadway  together, 
going  in  to  John  Anderson's  cigar  shop  next  the  hospital, 
and  getting  one  shilling's  worth  of  cigars,  handed  us  by  the 
pretty  Mary  Eogers,  who  so  suddenly  disappeared  and  was 
supposed  to  have  been  murdered  in  Hoboken.  John  has 
made  a  fortune,  and  can  be  daily  seen  at  his  wholesale 
factory,  on  the  corner  of  Cedar  street  and  Broadway. 
Well,  my  friend  A having  expressed  a  wish  to  intro- 
duce me  to  Mr.  Latham,  the  manager  of  the  Charleston 
Theatre,  we  dropped  in  upon  him  at  his  residence  at  the 
u  Halleck  House,"  on  the  corner  of  Eeade  and  Broadway. 
We  found  him  at  home,  and  at  his  request  I  sang  him  one 
or  two  songs — "  The  Lads  of  the  Village "  and  "  Oh ! 
would  I  were  a  boy  again."  He  remarked  that  I  had  a 
voice  that  would  realize  for  me  some  day  a  fortune,  and 
that  he  would  be  most  happy  to  have  me  accompany  him 
to  Charleston — that  he  would  instruct  me  in  music,  and 
indeed  do  any  and  everything  to  forward  my  interest,  and 
bring  me  out  successfully.  This  was  the  first  time  that  I 
had  at  all  realized  the  force  of  my  friend  A.'s  remark  in  the 
Barber's  shop,  that  T  should  "  go  on  the  stage."  The  idea 
haunted  me ;  I  felt  that  I  never  was  intended  for  a  business 
man ;  figures  and  accounts  were  a  dead  letter  to  me ;  of 
music  I  was  passionately  fond,  had  a  quick  ear,  a  retentive 
memory,  and  everybody  said,  a  first-rate  voice.  About  this 
time  the  carpet  trade  being  a  little  slack,  I  obtained  through 
the  kindness  of  an  old  and  esteemed  friend,  a  situation  in  the 
office  of  W.  C.  Pickersgill  &  Co.,  in  Wall  street,  at  a;  salary 
of  $500  a  year ;  1  but  what  my  actual  position  or  duties 
were,  I  never  could  ascertain,  nor  did  I  fully  appreciate  the 
awful  hornets'  nest  I  had  voluntarily  got  into,  in  the  shape 
of  arithmetical  troubles,  until  I  had  passed  my  first  week 
in  that  dread  counting-room. 


36  Drifting  About. 

My  friend,  Col.  L.  (the  book-keeper),  was  a  very  facetious 
person,  and  knew  full  well  when  he  offered  me  the  "  berth," 
not  only  that  I  had  a  horror  of  figures,  but  was  actually 
ignorant  of  the  method  of  keeping  the  simplest  accounts ; 
and  to  this  day,  I  believe  he  thought  it  a  good  joke,  and 
inwardly  enjoyed  the  nervous  state  of  excitement  and 
agony  of  mind  I  was  constantly  in,  when  engaged  in  some 
(to  me)  abstruse  calculation,  and  which  I  tried  in  vain  to 
conceal.  He  had  distinctly  told  me,  that  my  duties  would 
be  very  simple,  and  that  I  was  looked  upon  as  his  assistant, 
and  wnen  any  difficulty  presented  itself  in  the  shape  of  a 
"calculation,"  he  could  assist  me,  and,  in  fact,  "put  me 
through." 

After  the  first  two  or  three  days,  I  began  to  gain  a  little 
confidence — and  so  certain  did  I  feel  my  footing  to  be, 
although  my  "  footing  up  "  was  always  so  shaky  in  the 
establishment,  and  so  easy  my  affairs  prospectively  seemed 
in  money  matters,  that  I  immediately  rushed  to  Reynolds's 
outfitting  shop  in  Broadway  near  Cedar,  and  ordered  a 
dozen  shirts,  and  sundry  other  necessaries,  to  replenish  my 
scanty  wardrobe. 

I  have  informed  the  reader  before,  that  I  wrote  a  pretty 
good  hand ;  accordingly  ]  had  a  lot  of  accounts  to  enter  in 
a  large  book,  letters  to  copy,  etc.,  my  caligraphic  powers 
being  universally  admired  from  the  principal  (my  friend  the 
"Col."  calling  his  particular  attention  thereto)  to  the  office 
boy.  I  was  not  destined  long  to  enjoy  the  dignities  of  my 
position  as  junior  clerk  in  the  house  of  W.  C.  P.  k  Co.,  for 
whether  from  an  intuitive  knowledge  of  my  deficiencies, 
or  from  noticing,  upon  one  occasion,  my  agitated  state  in 
going  up  and  down  a  column  of  figures  for  almost  half  a 
day,  and  the  result  never  being  the  same  twice — I  say,  the 
cause  I  know  not,  but  certain  it  is,  that  while  trying  to  add 
up  a  column,  he  put  a  piece  of  paper  on  my  book,  which, 
as  I  glanced  at  it  askance,  I  felt  in  a  moment  was  a  death- 
knell  to  my  hopes,  prospects,  and  position,  as  assistant 
book-keeper,  in  that  highly  influential,  wealthy,  and  aristo- 
cratic banking-house.  My  boss  wished  to  test  my  arithme- 
tical powers,  and  had  given  me  some  such  problem  as  the 
following : — ■ 


Drifting  About.  37 

"  I  wish  to  buy  a  draft  on  London,  through  a  house  in 
Philadelphia  at  Pa,  or  Ma  (I  forget  which),  at  3|  per  cent, 
for  £198,  6,  4|,  which  amount  give  me  in  American  money, 
and  calculate  the  compound  iuterest  at  7  per  cent,  per 
annum,  payable  quarterly  in  advance." 

I  have  never  known  the  sensation  of  sea-sickness,  and 
very  rarely  felt  sick  at  the  st6mach  ;  but  for  the  moment, 
I  thought  I  should  have  fallen  off  the  stool,  I  became  faint, 
the  perspiration  started  from  my  forehead  in  rows  of  beads, 
and  dripped  from  the  ends  of  my  fingers,  and  if  the  execu- 
tioner had  stood  by  me,  with  a  rope  around  my  neck,  I  am 
sure  my  anguish  would  not  have  been  more  intense.  There 
stood  Mr.  Pick,  looking  at  his  unfortunate  "  Newman  Noggs," 
my  eyes  became  filmy,  my  head  dizzy,  and  I  looked  in  vain 
for  a  consoling  glance  or  word  of  assistance  from  the  head 
book-keeper.  Mr.  Pick  left  me  to  make  the  "  calculation ;" 
in  vain  I  tried — my  paper  was  covered  wTith  figures — I  went 
over  to  the  Exchange  Eeading-Eoom  to  get  a  look  at  the 
Philadelphia  Inquirer,  and  other  journals,  vainly  supposing 
I  might  get  some  information,  at  any  rate,  in  their  money 
articles,  upon  the  subject.  I  got  at  the  interest  tables — 
made  sundry  gesticulations  to  the  "  Col."  to  do  it  for  me, 
but  he,  the  last  plank  to  which  I  clung,  slipped^rom  under 
me,  and  in  my  hour  of  tribulation — was — "  nowhar."  My 
time  was  up,  and  oh!  horror — from  the  inner-room,  the 
sanctum  sanctorum,  the  place  where  no  sound  louder 
than  a  whisper  was  ever  heard,  where  no  one  hardly  dared 
to  enter,  but  privileged  persons,  and  where  the  high  rail- 
ings of  mahogany,  covered  with  green  silk,  kept  entirely 
hidden  from  the  vulgar  gaze  the  distinguished  individual 
who  was  to  decide  my  fate,  and  in  whose  presence  I  felt 
a  degree  of  mental  agony  and  nervous  excitement  never 
experienced  before  or  since  ; — from  this  chamber  of  terrors, 
issued  the  words,  in  a  sort  of  sympathizing  and  concilia- 
tory tone:  "  Mr.  Massett,  will  you  step  in  this  way  if  you 
please  ?"  My  time  had  come  at  last,  and  I  felt  a  melancholy 
relief,  I  thought  he  couldn't  do  much  more  than  discharge 
mc,  and  my  poor  brain  had  been  so  bothered  with  the 
infernal  figures  that  I  rather  preferred  to  leave  than  other- 
wise.    "  The  head  of  the  house  of  W.  C.  P.  &  Co.  sug- 


38  Drifting  About. 

gested  that  he  thought  I  was  not  sufficiently  advanced  in 
the  mysteries  of  book-keeping  and  accounts  to  be  of  any 
very  great  assistance  to  their  firm,  and  that,  though  I  could 
remain  until  I  had  found  another  'berth,'  he  thought  it 
necessary  to  engage  a  more  experienced  accountant." 

I  left  the  presence — my  first  feeling  being  one  of 
uncertainty  as  to  how  I  was  going  to  pay  for  my  dozen 
shirts,  and  sundry  other  articles  that  I  had  prospectively 
bought — and  I  wended  my  way  to  my  boarding-house, 
kept  by  Mrs.  Waterbury  (mother  to  the  distinguished 
Nelson  J.),  No.  4  Dey  street,  in  a  very  melancholy  state  of 
mind. 

In  a  day  or  two  after  these  events,  I  met  again  my  friend 

A ,  who  informed  me  that,  on  the  following  Saturday, 

the  schooner  Signet,  Captain  Knudson,  would  sail  for 
Charleston,  and  he  advised  me  very  strongly  to  go  in  her. 


COMIC   SCENES  AT  THE   CHARLESTON  (S.  0.)  THEATEE. 

Somewhere  in  the  month  of  November,  1841,  I  arrived 
in  Charleston,  S.  C,  and  proceeded  at  once  to  the  residence 
of  Mr.  Latham,  the  manager,  at  the  Victoria  Hotel,  in  King 
street.  I  was  emphatically  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land ; 
he,  at  that  time,  being  the  only  person  I  had  ever  even 
spoken  to  in  that  city.  The  business  of  the  theatre  had 
been  very  bad,  and  he  had  not  the  sweetest  temper  imagin- 
able, and  the  consequence  was  that  I  was  not  greeted  by 
him  in  the  most  affectionate  or  agreeable  manner. 

The  promise  he  had  made  me  in  New  York  was,  that  I 
was  to  be  by  him  well  instructed  and  informed  in  matters 
musical,  and  referring  to  the  stage,  before  I  made  my  first 
appearance,  in  speaking,  attitudinizing,  and  all  that  sort  of 
thing ;  in  fact,  I  was  to  look  upon  myself  as  his  pupil,  and 
that  he  would  be  in  no  hurry  to  bring  me  out,  wishing  me 
to  feel,  before  that  momentous  time  arrived,  perfectly  com- 
posed and  at  ease  in  my  new  occupation. 


Drifting  About.  39 

The  reader  can  then  judge  of  my  surprise,  when  upon 
the  third  day  of  my  arrival,  upon  strolling  leisurely  into 
the  H  Green  Eoom,"  Mr.  Latham  said  to  me,  u  What  two 
songs  will  you  sing  to-morrow  night,  sir?" 

I  was  astonished  and  frightened,  and  suggested  that  I 
was  not  prepared  to  make  my  appearance  so  soon,  remind- 
ing him  of  his  promise  in  New  York  of  instruction,  to 
which  he  replied,  in  the  most  heartless  manner,  "  Oh,  I  can't 
afford  to  be  paying  idle  people,  or  wait  till  it  suits  their 
convenience.  I  thought  you  had  a  hundred  songs  at  your 
tongue's  end."  I  felt  it  would  be  useless  to  argue — useless 
to  back  out.  I  had  made  my  bed,  and  meant  to  lie  in  it. 
I  mentioned  two.  "  The  Light  of  other  Days,"  and  "  Oh  ! 
Would  I  were  a  Boy  again."  "  Where  are  your  parts,  sir  ?" 
said  Mr.  Latham.  "  My  what,  sir  ?"  said  I ;  for  I  really 
did  not  know  his  meaning.  "  Why  (with  a  fearful  exple- 
tive) your  orchestral  parts.  You  can't  sing  without  orches- 
tral parts,  sir — where  are  they?"  I  quietly  said  I  never 
had  any,  and  of  that  fact  he  must  have  been  aware !  With 
another  oath,  he  took  the  songs,  and  in  a  short  time  returned 
with  the  "  band  parts,"  he  being  a  capital  musician,  and  I, 
for  the  first  time,  at  rehearsal,  sang  the  songs  to  an  orches- 
tral accompaniment.  They  went  well,  and  all  congratulated 
me  upon  my  maiden  effort. 

The  night  of  my  " first  appearance  upon  any  stage  "  was 
to  me  a  momentous  occurrence;  and  though  my  duties 
upon  that  occasion  were  very  simple,  the  state  of  mental 
prostration  under  which  I  labored  during  the  whole  of  that 
day,  I  shall  never  forget.  I  could  eat  nothing — I  could 
drink  nothing;  and  as  the  hour  approached  for  proceeding 
to  the  theatre,  I  felt  more  like  a  convict  going  to  execution 
than  anything  else.  The  performances  commenced  with 
(as' the  bills  said)  the  "  Heir  at  Law,"  after  which  a  "  Con- 
cert," in  which  Mr.  Stephens  (myself)  would  make  his  first 
appearance  as  a  vocalist.  I  was  not  needed  before  nine 
o'clock,  yet  I  thought  it  necessary  to  be  "on.  hand "  by 
seven.  The  entrance  to  the  stage-door  was  up  a  long,  dirty 
alley,  which  in  rainy  weather  was  ankle  deep  in  mud  and 
water,  with  all  sorts  of  chunks  of  wood  and  stray  bricks 
lying  about  loose ;  but  who  ever  heard  of  a  stage  entrance 
to  be  in  any  other  condition  ?     Well,  up  this  gloomy  lane 


40  Drifting  About. 

I  stumbled,  and  felt  for  the  gloomier  door,  which,  opening 
rather  against  its  inclination,  hindered  by  a  big  leaden 
weight  attached  to  a  long  rope,  closed  with  a  bang  that 
made  me  jump  about  a  foot. 

A  dismal  light  revealed  to  my  wondering  eyes,  very 
dimly  though,  the  pathway,  and  likewise  articles  of  every 
name,  size,  color,  and  style,  with  which  this  subterranean 
abode  seemingly  was  filled. 

There  were  broken  chairs,  stools,  and  tables,  rusty  hel- 
mets, swords,  guns,  pikes,  banners,  flags,  thrones,  sceptres, 
palaces,  castles,  streets,  gardens,  fountains,  flower-pots,  ships, 
thunder  and  lightning,  clocks,  bells,  rain,  hail,  fishes,  gob- 
lets, bottles,  sky,  sea,  land,  forests,  torches,  coffins,  scaffolds, 
pokers,  gravel  walks  made  of  canvas,  rail-roads,  boots, 
shoes,  traps,  paint,  paste,  paper,  loaves  of  bread  made  of 
wood,  balls,  kettles,  tea  cups,  coffee  pots,  cups  and  saucers, 
broken  china,  tin  plates,  shot,  sheet  iron,  masks,  bricks, 
mortar,  spiders,  rats,  mice,  flies,  dust  and  dirt ! 

At  last  I  found  myself  in  the  "  greenroom,"  where  those 
not  wanted  on  the  stage  are  supposed  to  wait  until  they  are 
"  called  for." 

I  knew  no  one — spoke  to  no  one,  and  tried  very  hard  to 
"  keep  cool."  It  was  the  month  of  December,  and  though 
very  near  Christmas,  the  night  was  uncomfortably  warm. 

The  comedy  over,  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  L.  that  it  was 
almost  time  for  me  to  go  on. 

I  suppose  he  saw  the  perturbed  state  of  my  mind,  and 
taking  me  to  one  of  the  side  wings,  said,  "  Now,  just  look 
upon  the  audience  as  so  many  cabbage  heads," — this  I 
didn't  think  very  complimentary — "  and  keep  your  eye 
upon  the  middle  chandelier,  and  it'll  be  all  right."  Miss 
Melton  and  a  Mr.  Denison  preceded  me,  and  upon  a  signal 
from  the  manager,  on  I  went,  not  having  any  distinct  idea 
where  I  was,  and  my  head  going  round  like  a  tetotum. 
When  I  arrived  at  the  theatre,  two  hours  previous,  my 
shirt  collar  stood  up  stiff,  touching  my  ears,  but  had 
receded  to  parts  unknown  long  before  I  faced  the  foot- 
lights. The  orchestra  commenced  a  few  bars  of  symphony 
(sympathy  rather),  introducing  the  aria,  "  The  Light  of  other 
Days,"  and  knowing  the  song  well,  I  was  easy  on  the  score 
of  j>roperly  commencing.     I  "  got  through"  the  first  verse, 


Drifting  About.  41 

and  was  applauded — through  the  second,  and  received  a 
hearty  "  encore,"  and  when  with  trembling  legs  and  per- 
spiring face  I  managed  to  gain  the  prompter's  desk,  I  was 
immediately  told  to  "  Go  on  again ;"  Latham  remarking, 
"  I  told  you  so:"  "  See  how  they  like  you,"  &c.  The  song 
was  repeated,  as  was  also  the  next  I  sang ;  and  when  my 
task  was  ended,  I  made  for  my  lodgings  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible, and  felt  that  certainly  one  of  the  great  events  of  my 
life  had  happened. 

Singing  a  song  upon  the  stage  is  one  thing,  speaking  is 
another ;  and  I  was  not  destined  long  to  enjoy  this  simple 
duty.  The  play  of  Eob  Koy  was  put  up  in  the  little  glass 
case  in  the  green-room,  and  /  was  cast  for  McStuart ;  and 
though  it  was  a  week  before  the  play  was  to  be  produced, 
my  nervousness  was  great,  and  I  flew  to  the  room  of  the 
stage  manager,  Mr.  Henry  Tuthill  (now,  I  believe,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Eoyal  Hotel,  in  Dublin),  who  was  extremely 
kind  to  me,  and  looked  upon  me  as  a  sort  of  protege,  beg- 
ging him  to  let  me  have,  as  quickly  as  possible,  the  book 
from  which  I  could  write  out  my  part.  Forty  lines,  I  be- 
lieve, is  a  "length,"  in  theatrical  parlance;  and  though 
there  cannot  be  over  a  quarter  of  that  number  devoted  to 
the  important  part  of  McStuart,  I  was  at  work  at  it  for  six 
days  and  nights,  lying  in  bed,  with  candles  on  each  side  of 
me,  vainly  endeavoring  to  get  it  into  my  head. 

Every  rehearsal  frightened  me  to  death,  and  at  the  last, 
a  sort  of  "  dress "  one,  I  couldn't  remember  a  line,  my 
nervousness  being  so  great,  that  I  had  (notwithstanding  the 
bullying  of  my  tyrannical  manager)  to  read  it  from  the 
book. 

The  night  arrived,  and  I  had  been  carefully  and  indeed 
gorgeously  attired  for  the  dread  occasion  by  my  kind  friend 
and  patron,  Harry  T ;  and  when  I  retired  to  the  green- 
room, to  look  at  myself  in  a  very  dirty  and  not  very  large 
glass,  I  thought  I  resembled  more  one  of  the  bagpipe  men 
that  I  had  often  seen  in  the  streets  of  London  than  anything 
else.  I  wore  a  large  sword,  which  kept  perpetually  getting 
between  my  legs  and  tripping  me  up,  and  my  naked  legs, 
exposed  for  the  first  time  to  the  gaze  of  the  public, 
seemed  to  shrink  from  the  ordeal ;  and  though  I  was  gene- 
rally considered  to  be  pretty  straight  on  the  pins,  there 


42  Drifting  About. 

appeared  a  feeling  of  sympathy  between -my  knees,  for  they 
kept  up  a  continual  though  slight  communication  with  each 
other  in  the  shape  of  knockings,  all  very  well  and  friendly 
when  I  was  by  myself,  but  which  (it  seemed  to  me,  having 
a  quick  eye  for  the  ludicrous)  from  the  front  would  look 
highly  ridiculous. 

At  length  the  fatal  time  arrived,  and  we  were,  in  thea- 
trical parlance,  "  discovered,"  and  /had  to  speak  the  first 
ivords.  Never  shall  I  forget  them.  They  were  these: — ■ 
"  Well,  well ;  I  can  drink  my  quart  of  usquebaugh  or 
brandy  with  any  man;  but  we  have  work  just  now,  and  I 
had  better  look  to  it."  Like  all  stage  novices,  I  spoke  in  a 
low  key,  as  if  addressing  some  one  in  ordinary  conversa- 
tion in  a  room,  and  was  gently  (?)  reminded  of  my  defect 
by  my  sweet-mouthed  manager  (who  was  the  Major  Gal- 

braith  of  the  evening)  with  a  fearful  oath,   " !  why 

don't  you  speak  out,  you 1"  which  had  the  effect  of 

frightening  the  remaining  part  entirely  out  of  my  head,  and 
I  (in  a  stage  whisper)  quickly  replied,  "  he  could  speak  the 
rest  himself,"  for  I  knew  nothing,  and  it  was  only  when 
Mr.  Bailie  Nicol  Jarvie  came  after  me  with  a  red-hot  (stage) 
poker  (which  was  precisely  as  lurid  and  glaring  at  the  end 
of  the  performance  as  it  was  when  first  handled  by  the 
infuriated  Scotchman),  that  the  words  of  my  part  came  to 
me,  "  Faugh,  man,  the  next  time  you  fight,  fight  like  a 
man,  and  not  like  a  wild  Indian.  My  bonnie  pladdie 
smells  \ike  a  singed  sheep's  head." 

How  the  rest  of  the  play  went  on,  I  have  forgotten, 
excepting  that  when  I  should  have  appeared  at  the  "  O.  P." 
or  "  P.  0."  side  with  a  company  of  soldiers  to  prevent  Kob 
Roy  from  running  off  the  stage  and  bumping  his  head 
against  a  brick  wall,  I — was  snug  in  bed,  with  the  inward 
conviction  that  I  had  not  only  made  a  great  judy  of  myself, 
but  that  another  of  the  u  momentous  crises"  of  my  life  had 
been  passed. 

About  three  weeks  after  this  occurrence,  the  Seguin 
troupe  were  announced,  the  opening  opera  being  Sonnam- 
bula,  in  which  I  figured  as  one  of  the  male  peasants,  my 
duties  being  simply  to  come  on  and  go  off  with  one  of  the 
female  ditto,  joining  in  the  chorus  loud  or  soft  as  the  case 
might  be. 


Drifting  About  43 

Fra  Diavolo  was  underlined,  and  /  was  cast  for  Matteo, 
the  innkeeper.  Now  this  greatly  perplexed  me,  for  I  found 
out  that,  though  it  seemed  at  first  a  very  easy  and  subordi- 
nate part,  it  was,  musically  considered,  most  important,  and 
as  only  two  days  were  devoted  to  u  getting  it  up,"  I  politely 
but  resolutely  declined  doing  it ;  Mr.  Seguin  telling  the 
manager  that  it  was  too  much  to  expect  a  novice  like  my- 
self, in  so  short  a  time,  to  learn  the  concerted  music.  The 
part  was  accordingly  "  read"  by  a  Mr.  Byrne.  I  found  out 
that  the  promises  made  me  by  Manager  Latham  of  instruc- 
tion, dramatic  and  musical,  amounted  to  nothing,  and  that 
I  had  no  one  to  look  up  to  or  to  depend  upon  but  myself; 
and  I  accordingly  acted  as  philosophically  as  possible, 
endeavoring  to  perform  the  parts  allotted  to  me  to  the  best 
of  my  ability. 

About  this  time,  a  tragedian,  by  the  name  of  Butler, 
made  his  appearance,  his  opening  play  being  the  Avenger. 
I  was  cast  for  Conradin  (the  part  played  by  the  pretty  Mrs. 
Powell  at  the  Park  Theatre). 

The  play  was  first  read  in  the  green-room,  and  my  friend 
Tuthill  told  me  I  had  a  beautiful  part,  and  could  make  a 
hit  in  it  if  I  was  careful.  It  was  certainly  the  longest  I  had 
yet  studied. 

In  one  of  the  scenes  I  had  to  make  love  (for  the  first  time) 
to  one  of  the  ladies  of  the  play  (I  think  it  was  Miss  Char- 
lotte Barnes,  now  Mrs.  Gr.  Comer),  and  at  rehearsal  was  told 
by  the  stage  manager  to  kneel  on  my  left  knee,  or  the  one 
nearest  the  audience ;  but  at  the  proper  time  and  place,  I 
was  so  agitated  and  nervous,  that  I  bent  one  and  then  the 
other,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  lady  and  the  laughter 
of  the  audience. 

The  plot  of  the  play  I  know  nothing  of;  all  I  remember 
is,  that  the  lady  and  her  mother  were  friends  of  the  Aus- 
trians,  and  that  I  (being  the  valet  of  the  Avenger)  address- 
ing the  younger  of  the  two  females,  had  to  say: — "  I  heard 
you  this  moment  own  yourselves  friends  of  the  Austrians, 
and  that  name  alone,  but  breathed  in  this  place,  would  call 
the  walls  down  on  you.     'Tis  the  Avenger's  house !" 

With  this  announcement,  both  ladies  gave  a  loud  shriek, 
when  I,  taking  the  hand  of  the  youngest,  replied — 

"  I'll  quickly  find  occasion  to  release  you  hence." 


44  Drifting  About. 

The  old  lady— 

"  Oh !  with  what  can  we  reward  you  ?" 

I  replied — 

"  'Tis  my  reward  to  serve  this  bright  perfection ;  to  gaze 
e'en  thus  a  moment  on  her  looks ;  and  if  I  merit  guerdon 
beyond  this,  let  me,  but  on  my  bended  (here  I  kept  bob- 
bing up  and  down)  knee,  press  this  hand  once  to  my  lips, 
with  a  devotion  as  pure  and  holy  as  that  you  breathe  in 
worship  at  your  saint's  shrine !"     Oh  lord !  oh  lord ! 

I  managed  to  get  this  off  so  well  that  I  received  a  round 
of  applause,  which  so  frightened  me  that  I  forgot  my  part, 
and  remained  speechless  on  both  knees,  kissing  the  lady's 
hand,  she  saying — 

"Ask  not  for  more" — I  thought  of  Oliver  Twist,  and 
wished  myself  at  the  devil. 

"  Do  get  up,"  whispered  the  lady.  "  I  can't,"  said  I. 
"  Do  go,  you're  keeping  the  stage  waiting."  "  But  I  must 
go,"  called  out  the  prompter.  "  I  wish  I  could,"  thought  I. 
"  Go  off  the  stage,  sir,"  cried  out  Mr.  Butler,  who  wanted 
to  come  on.  I,  still  kneeling,  and  perspiring  from  head  to 
foot,  at  last  caught  the  words,  "  But  I  must  go,  for  Walden 
will  be  here  ;  and  if  but  once  suspected,  you  are  lost !"  I 
received  a  general  bullying  when  I  got  off  the  stage,  and 
became  more  and  more  disgusted  with  lengthy  parts. 

The  play  of  the  Lady  of  Lyons  was  performed  one  night 
to  a  six  dollar  house — cash.  I  was  one  of  the  three  dis- 
tinguished officers  who  come  on  in  the  fifth  act  and  talk 
about  the  gallant  Col.  Morier.  I  wore  a  cap,  blue  frock 
coat,  red  sash,  and  carried  a  sword,  so  that  I  resembled  one 
of  our  N.  Y.  policemen.  Upon  the  present  occasion  I  had 
what  they  called,  "doubled;"  that  is  played  two  parts — 
having  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  drama  enacted  "  Graspard;" 
the  consequence  was  that  I  got  the  parts  all  mixed  up,  and 
began  talking  of — 

"  Blows  to  a  French  citizen  "  to  the  utter  confusion  of 
my  brother  officers,  who,  in  a  sotto  voce  tone,  suggested 
that  I  should  "  clear  out,"  which  advice  I  instantly  took — 
marching  off,  as  if  on  the  most  important  business.  I 
wasn't  visible  again  that  night. 

The  play  of  Hamlet  afforded  me  the  opportunity  of 
appearing  in   the  arduous  role   of  "  Gueldencrantz,"  or 


Drifting  About. 


45 


"  Kozenstern,"  I  forget  which,  for  they  are  both  much 
about  the  same. 

I  remember  the  "  business  "  was  somewhat  particular,  and 
I  was  requested  to  be  on  the  "right "  side  of  Hamlet  (know- 
ing the  Tragedian  pretty  well  I  thought  this  would  be  an 
easy  matter).  This  of  course  I  didn't  do  and  the  whole  scene 
went  wrong,  and  when  "  Hamlet,"  after  inviting  me  to  play 
an  air  on  the  flute,  and  my  respectfully  replying — 

"  My  Lord,  I  cannot " — 

Threw  away  the  instrument — whether  purposely  or 
not  I  couldn't  find  out,  as  it  caught  me  on  one  of  my  legs 
and  I  "  hollered  "  right  out,  and  rushed  off  the  stage  the 
audience  roaring  with  laughter. 


Upon  another  occasion,  I  was  cast  for  the  part  of  the 
"  Duke  of  Buckingham  "  in  Henry  the  Sixth.  I  think  my 
turn  comes  after  "Hotspur's"  celebrated  speech,  commen- 
cing,— "My  liege,  I  did  deny  no  prisoners"  (this  part,  I 
may  mention,  was  very  effectively  rendered  by  the  cele- 


46  Drifting  About. 

brated  scenepainter,  Mr.  Henry  Isherwood) ;  well,  the 
language  I  found  very  difficult,  so  much  so,  that  I  had 
taken  the  precaution  to  write  it  out  in  a  bold  hand  and  stick 
it  inside  of  my  hat,  and  was  in  the  act  of  reading  it,  when 
King  Henry  the  Sixth  seeing  what  I  was  doing,  said  to  me 
with  an  oath  : — "  Haven't  you  had  plenty  of  time  to  learn 
your  part,  Sir,  without  reading  it  here  ?"  which  rebuke  had 
the  effect,  not  only  of  rendering  the  Duke  speechless,  but 
causing  an  audible  "  titter  "  among  the  lords  and  ladies  of 
the  "  Oourt." 

The  play  of  London  Assurance  was  produced  with  great 
splendor.  The  cast,  if  I  remember  right,  was  as  follows  : — 
Sir  Harcourt,  Mr.  Harry  Tuthill;  Dazzle,  Mr.  Charles 
Howard  ;  Meddle,  Mr.  Latham  ;  Lady  Gay  Spanker,  Miss 
Melton ;  Charles  Conolly,  Mr.  Byrne ;  Pert,  Mr.  Henry ; 
Dolly  Spanker,  Mr.  Henry,  and  "Cool"  myself. 

I  was  told  1  acted  in  this  very  well,  and,  the  play  hap- 
pening to  run  for  several  nights,  I  felt  quite  easy  in  it. 

Mr.  Hackett  was  announced  as  Falstaff  and  I  was  cast  for 
Pistol,  in  the  Merry  Wives  of  Windsor,  carrying  a  sword 
that  was  twice  as  big  as  I  was,  and  dressed  in  the  most 
ungainly  suit  imaginable.  My  crowning  triumph,  however, 
was  reserved  for  the  occasion  of  Miss  Charlotte  Barnes's 
Benefit,  when  she  asked  me  to  play  the  part  of  "Paris" 
in  Borneo  and  Juliet.  I  was  attired  by  my  good-natured 
patron,  Harry  T.,  most  gorgeously,  and  having  very  little  to 
do  In  the  earlier  portions  of  the  tragedy,  felt  composed  and 
tolerably  at  my  ease.  At  rehearsal  in  the  fencing  scene, 
knowing  little  or  nothing  of  the  mysteries  of  that  gentle- 
manly art,  I  suggested  to  Mr.  Borneo  (C.  Howard),  that  he 
should  let  me  off  quickly  and  easily,  giving  me  one  or  two 
"  stage  "  digs  in  the  side  and  letting  me  drop. 

This  he  agreed  to  do.  At  length  the  time  arrived  when 
in  front  of  the  pasteboard  tomb  of  the  "  Capulets  "  he 
makes  for  his  rival,  Paris.  We  both  struck  an  attitude,  I 
requesting  him  to  stab  me  quickly  ;  I  fell,  supposed  to.  be 
dead,  and  as  I  lay,  the  carpenter  (as  I  found  out  afterwards), 
in  one  of  the  flies  above  me,  let  some  water  drop  in  my 
eyes  causing  me  to  move  my  head.  This  made  the  audi- 
ence laugh  ;  down  came  more  water — drip,  drip,  drip — my 
head  moving  to  the  other  side — audience  convulsed.     Poor 


Drifting  About.  47 

Howard  could  not  imagine  the  cause,  and,  looking  at  his 
legs,  thought  there  might  (as  he  afterwards  said)  be  a  hole 
in  his  tights.  "  What's  the  matter?"  he  cried ;  nobody  could 
tell,  and  the  curtain  came  down  amid  the  boisterous  laugh- 
ter of  the  audience.  After  it  was  over  I  explained  what  I 
supposed  to  be  the  cause,  and  the  carpenter  received  a 
severe  reprimand  from  the  manager  and  I  a  good  blowing 
up  from  Mr.  Romeo. 

During  my  residence  in  Charleston,  happening  to  fall  in 
love  with  a  large  pair  of  dark  eyes,  I  gave  vent  to  my  feel- 
ings in  the  words  and  music  of  a  song — my  maiden  effort, 
which  I  believe  "  still  lives,"  and  enjoys  a  fair  share  of 
public  favor. 

The  song  is  called  "When  the  Moon  on  the  Lake  is 
beaming,"  and  the  following  are  the  words : — 

When  the  Moon  on  the  lake  is  beaming, 

And  the  night  is  calm  and  still, 
And  the  stars  in  their  bright  light  gleaming, 
Shine  forth  on  some  distant  hill — 
Wilt  thou  come,  love,  come  ? 

Oh,  come  with  me, 
And  I'll  give  thee  a  happy  home, 
Where  a  true  heart  waits  for  thee  1 

When  the  vesper  bells  are  ringing 

Their  evening  melody, 
Our  maidens  sweet  are  singing  . 
Their  simple  minstrelsy — 
Wilt  thou  come,  love,  come  ? 

Oh,  come  with  me, 
And  I'll  give  thee  a  happy  home, 
Where  a  true  heart  waits  for  thee  ! 

Upon  my  arrival  in  New  York,  I  took  the  song  to  Mr. 
William  Dubois  in  Broadway,  who  gave  me  the  magnifi- 
cent sum  of  five  dollars,  cash,  for  it,  and  fifty  copies,  which 
were  distributed  among  my  friends.  The  song  has  gone 
through  several  editions,  and  is  now  published  by  William 
Hall  &  Sons,  Broadway. 

A  circumstance  occurred  one  night  after  the  perform- 
ances were  all  over,  as  I  was  returning  home,  that  again 
changed  the  current  of  my  life. 


48  Drifting  About. 

I  was  accosted  by  a  gentleman,  who,  with  extended  hand 
and  pleasant  voice,  said — 

"  I  think,  sir,  your  name  is  M ,  is  it  not?  for  I  believe 

I  made  a  voyage  from  England  with  a  brother  of  yours,  in 
the  '  Vibilea '  some  years  ago  ?" 

I  replied  that  I  was  delighted  to  have  had  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  him,  and  accepted  his  kind  invitation  to  dine 
with  him  on  the  following  day. 

This  resulted  in  my  being  introduced  to  Col.  Keith  and 
my  being  once  again  installed  at  the  desk,  and  for  several 
months  I  was  one  of  the  clerks  in  the  Secretary  of  State's 
office,  in  the  old  iron  building  near  Broad  street,  in  the 
Palmetto  city. 

I  may  mention  here  that  though  my  stipulated  salary 
with  Harry  Latham  was  six  dollars  a  week,  board  included, 
all  I  received  from  the  treasurer  for  my  magnificent  per- 
formances during  my  entire  theatrical  career  in  Charleston, 
was  two  dollars  and  a  half! 

The  intense  heat  and  a  slight  touch  of  yellow  fever,  de- 
termined me  to  take  passage  to  New  York,  in  the  ship 
Catharine,  Captain  Berry. 

Here  I  was  one  night,  at  a  party  at  Dr.  Levitt's,  the 
dentist  (who  then  lived  on  the  corner  of  Warren  street  and 
Broadway),  introduced  to  Mr.  William  Mitchell,  then  the 
manager  of  the  Olympic  Theatre,  which  was  located  where 
the  City  Assembly  Kooms  now  are. 


XL 

THE  OLD  OLYMPIC. 

Some  delightful  evenings  were  passed  in  the  doctor's 
pleasant  rooms,  and  he  being  very  musical  and  at  the  same 
time  theatrically  inclined,  was  constantly  entertaining  at 
his  hospitable  apartments  members  of  the  profession,  musi- 
cians, artists,  editors,  etc.  Horncastle,  Mitchell,  Bengough, 
Greo.  Loder,  Henry  Watson,  and  others  were  among  his 
frequent  visitors. 


Drifting"  About.  49 

The  opera  of  "  Amilie,"  George  Loder  suggested,  should 
be  brought  out  at  the  little  Olympic,  and  he  told  Mitchell 
that  I  was  the  proper  person  to  personate  the  Count. 

I  at  first  could  not  entertain  the  idea  at  all,  my  career  at 
Charleston  upon  the  stage  having  been  anything  but  plea- 
sant; I  intended  to  return,  if  possible,  to  some  private 
employment. 

In  this  I  did  not  succeed,  and  accordingly,  at  the  urgent 
solicitation  of  many,  I  accepted  the  offer  of  Mr.  Manager 
Milehell,  who  christened  me  Mr.  Raymond.  Accordingly, 
on  October  2d,  1842,  the  first  night  of  "Amilie"  was 
announced  at  the  Olympic. 

The  cast  was  as  follows : 

Amilie, Mrs.  Timm. 

Jos.  Speckbacker, Miss  Mary  Taylor. 

Gen.  Count  Van  Der  Tiemer,    .    Mr.  Raymond. 

Mr.  Ben  Baker,  now  attached  to  Laura  Keene's  Theatre, 
was  the  efficient  prompter,  and  I  may  here  add  that  he  not 
only  "  rang  up  "  the  first  curtain  upon  the  occasion  of  the 
opening  night,  but  he  rang  down  the  last. 

If  I  had  gone  through  the  ordeal  of  a  first  appearance — 
as  I  unquestionably  had  at  Charleston — it  went  for  nothing ; 
the  to  me  terrible  fact  of  appearing  in  New  York  city, 
where,  I  felt,  almost  everybody  knew  me,  I  never  properly 
realized  until  the  fatal  day  arrived. 

We  had  many  rehearsals ;  and  as  to  the  music,  I  felt 
unconcerned.  My  "  make  up "  was  q  ite  attractive.  A 
blue  frock  coat,  lined  with  white  satin,  was  faultlessly 
made  by  Pearson,  the  tailor,  the  foraging  cap  by  Mealio, 
the  hatter  (still  to  be  found  on  the  corner  of  Canal  street 
and  Broadway),  my  patent-leathers  (how  they  did  hurt  my 
feet)  by  a  distinguished  Dutchman,  and  my  red  trowsers, 
with  gold  lace,  by  the  aforesaid  tailor;  the  whole  sur- 
mounted by  a  pair  of  gorgeous  epaulets,  lent  to  me  by  my 
friend  Captain  McArdle. 

My  manager  found  me  at  Windust's,  in  Park  Row, 
about  half-past  two,  eating  minced  veal,  I  having  beard 
that  chopped  meat  was  the  right  thing  to  "  do "  on  this 
thrilling    occasion — thus    preventing    the    possibility    of 

3 


50  Drifting  About. 

anything  "sticking"  in  my  throat;  a  something  I  fully 
expected  would  happen  on  the  stage. 

As  the  hour  drew  near  I  experienced  for  the  second  time 
the  fearful  sensation  of  making  a  first  appearance.  The 
night  I  remember  well — it  was  damp,  misty,  and  foggy — 
and  as  I  approached  the  front  of  the  theatre  a  crowd 
besieged  the  doors,  the  pit  entrance  being  completely 
blocked  up  by  market  boys,  butcher  boys,  newsboys,  big 
boys,  small  boys,  of  every  age,  shape,  and  size. 

The  stage  entrance  was  through  a  cellar- way  in  Broad- 
way, the  narrow  and  gloomy  passage  slightly  illuminated 
by  one  or  two  jets  of  gas,  which  "  Tom  the  Gasman  " 
(quite  a  character  in  those  days,  and  one  of  the  "insti- 
tutions " )  had  a  few  moments  before  lighted. 

The  dressing-room  appointed  for  me  was  about  the  size 
of  an  old-fashioned  shower-bath,  having  just  room  enough 
for  me  to  stand  up  and  sit  down  in,  and  the  perfume  I 
encountered  as  I  opened  the  rickety  door,  with  its  rusty 
iron  latch,  was  highly  suggestive  of  the  sick-ward  in  a 
hospital,  or  a  half-cleaned  pigstye. 

The  wooden  walls  were  covered  with  caricatures  in 
chalk,  old  playbills,  and  from  long  ten  penny  nails  hung 
remnants  of  tights,  old  hats,  waistcoats,  etc. ;  upon  the 
half  dusted  bench  upon  which  my  stage  traps  were  sup- 
posed to  be  placed  was  a  paper  of  rouge,  a  pink  saucer, 
some  India  ink,  and  a  broken  looking-glass. 

In  my  excitement  I  had  forgotten,  as  I  was  informed,  a 
very  essential  article.  I  had  been  instructed  in  the  art  of 
"  making  up  "  my  face,  that  is,  the  method  of  putting  on 
the  rouge  with  a  hards  foot — this  latter  thing  I  had  lost  sight 
of.  I  accordingly  told  the  dresser,  a. good-natured  darkey, 
to  go  as  quickly  as  he  could  to  the  market  near  Grand 
street,  and  get  me  a  defunct  rabbit,  and  to  cut  off  his  fore 
or  hind  leg  and  bring  it  to  me  immediately. 

I  could  not  help  smiling  as  he  produced  the  leg  of  the 
animal,  that  had  been  chopped  off,  and  threw  the  remaining 
portion  on  the  dressing-table.  I  commenced  bedaubing 
my  face  with  the  red  powder,  and  (not  being  able  in  those 
days  to  sport  any  real  hair)  with  the  India  ink  I  painted  a 
moustache  on  my  upper  lip. 

Taking  a  farewell  look  in  the  glass  I  proceeded  to  the 


Drifting  About.  51 

"  Greenroom,"  awaiting  the  dread  word  of  the  "  call  boy," 
11  Count  wanted." 

The  house  was  packed  to  suffocation,  and  everyone 
seemed  on  the  tiptoe  of  excitement.  It  was  the  first 
attempt  to  produce  a  legitimate  and  entire  opera  at  this 
little  bandbox  of  a  theatre,  which,  up  to  this  time,  had 
been  celebrated  for  its  burlesques,  funny  farces,  and,  indeed, 
turning  everything  into  ridicule. 

The  overture  was  finished,  capitally  played  by  the  com- 
pact little  orchestra,  and  when  I  mention  among  those 
composing  its  members  such  names  as  Joh*.  A.  Kyle, 
George  Loder,  George  Bristow,  Henry  C.  Timm,  and  Au- 
piek,  the  reader  can  well  understand  its  excellence. 

The  curtain  was  rung  up,  and  the  opening  chorus,  with 
the  song  of  Amilie,  was  admirably  given  and*  vociferously 
cheered.  \ 

I  believe  I  was  supposed  to  be  a  general  in  the  Austrian 
army,  returned  after  many  years'  absence  to  the  scenes  of 
my  youth. 

The  stage  was  cleared,  a  canvas  inn  erected,  with  a  paper 
window  and  a  swinging  sign,  upon  which  Mr.  Bengough 
had  painted :  "  The  only  Inn  on  the  Horse-road  to  Durich." 

I  was  pretty  cool,  though  I  felt  I  had  a  fearful  ordeal  to 
go  through  ;  the  "wings"  on  each  side  of  the  stage  were 
crowded  with  the  various  performers,  ballet  girls,  super- 
numeraries, and  a  few  privileged  persons  who  had  the  entree 
behind  the  scenes,  and  Mitchell^  who  was  to  give  me  the 
word,  when  to  "  come  on." 

A  few  bars  of  symphony,  introducing  the  song  of  "  My 
Boyhood's  Home,"  was  the  cue  for  me  to  appear — and  on 
I  walked,  looking  stiff,  feeling  stiff,  and  acting  "  stiffer." 

My  red  trowsers,  thank  Providence,  hid  the  shakiness  of 
my  legs,  and,  as  my  fright  did  not  particularly  affect  my 
voice,  and  I  knew  the  song  perfectly,  I  got  through  it  so 
as  to  be  encored ;  and  I  imagined  as  I  sat  down  at  the 
table,  and  took  up  an  empty  tin  can  that  was  (supposed  to 
be)  full  of  wine,  I  was  a  veritable  soldier,  and  had 
returned  to  "  my  native  heath,"  after  a  series  of  hardships 
and  mishaps. 

The  opera  was  a  great  success,  and  Miss  Mary  Taylor, 
Miss  Singleton,    and  Mrs.  Timm,    were    enthusiastically 


52 


Drifting  About. 


received;  indeed,  the  opera  ran  some  thirty  consecutive 
nights,  and  the  boxes  of  the  Olympic  were  nightly  filled 
with  the  elite  of  the  city.  Many  funny  scenes  occur- 
red during  the  brief  period  of  my  stay  as  a  member  of  the 
Olympic  Company,  and  I  shall  content  myself,  by  jotting 
down  from  my  memory,  one  or  two  incidents  that  may 
amuse  the  reader. 

Upon  one  occasion  my  red  trowsers,  in  which  I  played 
the  Count,  had  been  borrowed  by  one  of  the  lady  mem- 
bers of  the  company  who  happened  to  be  a  very  large  wo- 
man, and  having  to  be  emphatically  "  let  out "  in  a  region 
not  necessary  to  mention,  were  entirely  spoiled  for  me. 
The  opera  being  suddenly  "put  up,"  and  I  forgetting  that 
I  had  loaned  my  pants,  was  at  the  last  moment  constrained 
to  borrow  a  pair  of  thin  white  ones,  very  badly  made ;  the 
night  was  intensely  cold,  and  I  was  shivering,  added  to  all 
this,  my  nether  appendages  were  so  tight  a  fit,  that  every 
motion  of  my  legs  could  be  easily  seen — it  was  useless  for 
me  to  try  to  stand  still — my  teeth  chattered,  my  legs  shook; 

how  I  got  through  the  music 
I  know  not ;  but  I  do  know, 
that  after  that  night  I  never 
allowed  any  woman  to  "  let 
out"  or  "  take  in"  my  trow- 
sers. 

Charles  Dickens  came  to 
see  one  of  his  pieces  perform- 
ed one  evening ;  a  private 
box  having  been  set  apart 
for  himself  and  wife,  by  Mr. 
Mitchell.  All  eyes  were 
turned  to  the  box,  and  little 
attention  seemed  to  be  given 
by  the  actors  or  the  audience 
to  the  performances.  He 
dropped  into  the  Green-room 
during  the  performance,  and 
was  for  some  minutes  chat- 
ting with  Mr.  Mitchell  in  his 
dressing-room. 


Drifting  About.  53 

XII. 


An  incident  occurred  on  the  night  of  my  benefit,  which 
at  the  time  created  a  little  excitement :  the  "  Sunday- 
papers,"  I  remember,  being  particularly  eloquent  upon  the 
subject,  each  giving  a  very  graphic,  and  (of  course)  differ- 
ent version  of  the  affair. 

Now,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  that  part  of  the  house 
known  as  the  "  pit"  was  usually  occupied  by  a  crowd  of 
butcher-boys,  market,  and  newsboys,  whose  great  delight 
consisted,  upon  the  occasion  of  any  one's  benefit,  in  throw- 
ing upon  the  stage  some  friendly  recognition  of  their  ap- 
preciation of  the  efforts  of  their  favorite — these  delicate 
attentions  consisted,  in  part,  of  articles  from  the  green- 
grocer's, the  tallow-chandler's,  or  the  butcher's,  such  as 
wreaths  of  onions,  large -sized  carrots,  with  turnips  to 
match,  a  string  of  tallow-candles,  and  occasional  "  red- 
herring,"  and  in  one  instance  an  immense  cod-fish. 

It  was  reserved  for  me,  however,  to  have  the  finishing 
touch  put  to  my  theatrical  career,  in  the  shape  of  a  delicate 
souvenir  from  a  friendly  butcher-boy,  who,  if  he  ever  hap- 
pens to  read  these  lines,  will  remember  the  awful  conster- 
nation, and  the  shrieks  of  laughter,  the  audience  was 
thrown  into  by  the  appearance  on  the  stage  of  his  con- 
siderate and  friendly  memento. 

I  had  selected  the  first  act  of  the  Sonnambula  for  my 
benefit,  introducing  the  well-known  air,  "  As  I  view  now." 

Mary  Taylor  was  the  Amina,  and  Mr.  Charles  Walcot 
the  Elvino,  who  sang  the  music  charmingly. 

I  was  got  up  regardless  of  expense,  had  just  crossed  the 
bridge  at  the  back  of  the  stage,  and  was  walking  down  the 
middle  thereof,  the  villagers  standing  bowing  on  each  side 
of  me,  when,  just  as  I  commenced  the  words,  "  As  I  view 
now !" — whack  came  down  a  "  calf's  head,"  white  as  milk, 
beautifully  clean-shaved,  tied  with  blue  ribbons,  and  a  fine 
large  lemon  in  its  mouth  ! 

I  stepped  back  aghast,  but  perfectly  resigned ;  the  utmost 


54  Drifting  About. 

confusion  prevailed,  some  ladies  laughing,  others  crying. 
Mitchell  (who  had  been  in  the  orchestra,  watching  the  pro- 
gress of  the  opera)  jumped  into  the  pit,  and  endeavored  to 
lay  hold  of  the  "  disturber  of  the  peace."  Officers  were 
flying  about,  and  the  whole  house  in  a  perfect  uproar. 
Walcot  kindly  suggested  to  me  to  "  keep  cool,"  and  he 
would  "  pick  it  up.''  I  stood  till  I  thought  I  must  look 
very  foolish,  and  walking  up  to  the  "  dead  head,"  took  hold 
of  the  blue  silk  with  which  it  was  bandaged,  when,  to  my 
horror,  it  again  dropped  ;  this  disconcerted  me,  and  I  step- 
ped back  to  await  the  result  of  the  disturbance. 

Elvino,  at  this  moment,  took  compassion  upon  me,  and 
carried  the  "  head  off,  and  presented  it  to  the  call-boy, 
who  had  some  first-rate  soup  made  of  it,  of  which  we  all 
partook  on  the  following  day — not  an  act  of  soup-ereroga- 
tion,  but  in  grateful  remembrance  of  the  liberal  donor. 

I  was  "  called  out,"  as  was  the  usual  custom,  at  the  end 
of  the  performance,  but  had  left  for  home  long  before  that 
time.  ■ 

Mr.  Mitchell  appeared  before  the  curtain,  stating,  in  a 
sharp  and  even  indignant  manner,  to  the  audience,  that, 
"  Mr.  Raymond  had  retired  for  the  night,  but  had  requested 
him  (Mr.  Mitchell)  to  present  his  compliments  to  the  gen- 
tleman who  had  thrown  him  his  likeness.'1 

At  this  the  audience  collapsed  in  an  extraordinary  state 
of  ironical  laughter,  and  Mitchell,  perceiving  the  ambiguity 
of  bis  remark,  left  the  stage  in  high  dudgeon,  the  boys  in 
the  pit  following  with  hoots  of  laughter. 

It  may  be  well  here  to  remark,  that  the  audience  usually 
attending  the  Olympic  was  composed  of  two  classes :  the 
boxes  containing  the  first  people  in  the  city — as  frequently 
the  body  of  the  first  tier  would  be  occupied  by  a  party  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen  made  up  for  the  occasion — while  the 
pit  possessed  the  usual  characteristics  of  the  galleries  in  a 
London  theatre,  and  was  always  composed  of  the  same 
materials,  the  butcher-boys  usually  predominating. 

Mitchell  had  so  used  his  audience  to  jokes  and  double 
entendre,  that  they  were  always  looking  out  for  such 
•things ;  he  frequently,  having  confidential  conversations 
with  the  pit,  in  regard  to  their  conduct,  during  the  progress 
of  the  play ;  so  that  the  manager  and  the  pittites,  and  the 


Drifting  About.  55 

audience  generally,  felt  on  terms  of  quite  friendly  inter- 
course at  all  times. 

It  will  thus  be  seen,  when  Mitchell  made  this  mis- 
take, that  the  pit  took  advantage  of  it,  and  returned  his 
attempt  at  rebuke  with  shouts  of  laughter. 

When  this  was  reported  in  the  papers,  I  thought  it  some- 
what equivocal,  and  to  this  day  I  cannot  find  out  whether 
he  intended  the  compliment  for  me  or  my  unknown  friend. 


XIII. 

YANKEE  HILL. 

During  my  stay  at  the  Olympic,  I  had  been  introduced 
to  Mr.  George  H.  Hill,  commonly  known  as  Yankee  Hill. 
Upon  the  close  of  the  season,  he  suggested  to  me  the  pro- 
priety of  accompanying  him  on  a  lecturing  and  musical 
tour  through  the  Eastern  States,  commencing  in  Boston, 
and  he  offered  me  $10  a  week  and  my  travelling 
expenses. 

"We  had  rare  fun  together,  and  passed  through  many 
funny  scenes.  He  announced  me  in  the  bills  as  "  Mr.  Ray- 
mond, the  celebrated  London  Vocalist." 

He  gave  his  first  entertainment  a  la  Dr.  Yalentine  at  the 
Melodeon,  I  assisting  by  singing  two  or  three  ballads. 

Signor  De  Begnis,  quite  a  celebrity  in  those  days,  gave  a 
concert,  and  with  Mr.  Hill's  permission  I  sang  for  tJie  first 
time  in  public  my  own  song,  "  When  the  Moon  on  t/ie  Lake.'1'1 

Yankee  Hill  was  an  inveterate  joker,  and  very  fond  of 
playing  his  tricks  upon  strangers.  Upon  the  steamer  in 
which  we  had  taken  passage  for  Boston,  we  noticed  several 
clergymen,  going,  I  believe,  to  some  religious  convention. 
Hill  picking  out  one  of  the  most  sanctimonious-looking, 
said  to  me,  "What  do  you  bet  I  don't  go  and  ask  that  man 
for  a  pinch  .of  snuff,  and  '  how  his  mother  is  ?'  "  I  replied, 
I  didn't  think  he  could  do  it  and  keep  his  face  straight. 
With  this,  I  went  to  the  other  side  of  the  boat,  so  that  I 
could  see  and  not  be  noticed,  when  Hill,  putting  on  a  very 
long  face  and  throwing  his  head  back,  came  softly  behind 


56  Drifting  About. 

the  reverend  gentleman,  giving  a  tremendous  sneeze  that 
made  him  jump  several  feet;  Hill  remarking  that  he  hoped 
he  had  not  alarmed  him,  but  the  fact  was  he  had  a  very 
bad  cold,  and  his  only  remedy  was  a  pinch  of  snuff,  and  he 
had  left  his  box  at  home ;  following  it  up  with  the  promised 
question,  "  Could  you  give  me  a  pinch?"  The  clergyman 
replied,  that  he  thought  it  a  sin  to  use  tobacco  in  any  shape ; 
that  he  had  religiously  obeyed  the  injunctions  of  his  father 
and  mother, — when  Hill,  interrupting  him,  said,  "  Wasn't 
your  mother  from  Plymouth,  and  her  name  —  Ben- 
son?" (This  was  a  favorite  name  of  his.)  "No,  sir;  my 
mother,  who,  thank  God,  is  still  living,  resides  in  Ver- 
meouht,  and  she  is  a  Snodgrass,  sir!"  "  A — what — grass, 
sir?"  says  Hill.  "I  am,  as  you  see,  a  little  deef,  owing  to 
this  infernal — I  beg  pardon — troublesome  cold ;  but  I  had 
an  aunt  Snodgrass,  sir,  on  my  mother's  side,  and  I  did  think 
I  saw  a  re-semblance ;  was  your  mother's  name  Mary  ?" — 
(I  I  ill  always  insisted  that  was  a  safe  question.) — "  It  were, 
sir,"  replied  the  clergyman ;  when  to  my  horror,  and  to  the 
explosion  of  half  a  dozen  bystanders  into  a  perfect  tornado 
of  laughter,  Hill  followed  it  up  with  the  most  imperturba- 
ble gravity — "and  how  is  your  mother?"  his  face  assuming 
an  inquiring  and  sympathetic  expression.  I  could  stand  it 
no  longer,  and  asked  him  not  to  repeat  the  joke  on  anyone 
else. 

It  soon  became  known  that  Yankee  Hill  was  on  board, 
and  everybody  was  on  his  guard,  fearing  to  come  in  con- 
tact with  him. 

We  gave  entertainments  together  at  Portland,  Augusta, 
Belfast,  and  other  towns  in  Maine,  generally  in  the  dining- 
rooms  of  the  different  taverns  at  which  we  stopped. 

In  the  town  of  Augusta,  where  we  stayed  some  two  or 
three  days,  and  where  I  was  much  interested  in  passing 
several  hours  in  the  Insane  Asylum,  not  as  an  inmate,  but 
as  a  visitor.  At  Augusta  we  were  advertised — or  rather  it 
was  "  Yankee  Hill's  Budget  of  Fun  and  Comic  Olio  " — to 
give  a  "show"  on  Saturday  night;  tickets  twenty -five 
cents. 

The  hall  was  the  eating-room  of  the  hotel,  a  screen  with 
a  sheet  thrown  over  it  separating  us  from  the  view  of  the 
audience.     We  had  been  out  fishing  in  the  earlier  part  of 


Drifting  About.  5? 

the  day  and  were  both  dreadfully  burnt,  so  much  so,  that 
we  had  been  advised  by  our  landlady  to  "grease"  our 
faces  before  the  concert  came  off. 

Supper  being  over,  and  the  hour  of  commencing  near, 
Hill  suggested  to  me  to  go  and  "  play  'em  in."  I  replied, 
that  I  knew  no  pieces,  other  than  a  few  accompaniments  to 
my  songs,  and  I  was  not  a  piano-forte  player  (we  had  dis- 
charged our  accompanyist  long  before  for  want  of  funds  and 
business).  "  Oh,  no  matter,"  said  Hill,  "  go  and  give  him 
a  chord  or  so,  thump  on  it,  run  up  and  down  the  keys,  any- 
thing to  make  a  noise,  and  directly  you  see  anybody  come 
in,  cut  behind  that  sheet,  and  I'll  walk  in  as  if  I  was  one 
of  the  audience." 

I  did  as  directed,  and  the  result  was  one  old  woman 
appeared  and  a  small  boy.  She  stood  at  the  door  several 
minutes  insisting  that  she  couldn't  give  over  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  for  her  son.  I  then  left  for  the  screen,  and  hav- 
ing made  a  hole  with  my  penknife  in  the  sheet,  counted,  by 
the  time  Mr.  Hill  made  his  appearance  on  the  stand,  just 
a  dozen  persons  including  the  servants  of  the  house,  the 
proprietor  and  proprietress.  The  proceeds  of  the  night 
amounted  to  thirty -seven  and  a  half  cents. 

Hill  commenced  by  saying,  "Ladies  and  Gentlemen 
(Hill  very  red  in  the  face,  and  nearly  bursting  with  sup- 
pressed laughter,  and  I  behind  the  sheet  joining  in),  I  pre- 
sume it  is — owing  to  the  excessive — cold — no — heat — of  the 
day — that — that — there  are  so  many — I  mean — few — here 
to-night ; — but  the  fact  is — it  is  almost  impossible  to — er — 
go  through  a  laborious  entertainment  like  mine,  when  the 
audience  is  so  sparse,  and  therefore,  I'll  give  you  one  or 
two  imitations,  and  Mr.  Kaymond  will  sing  you  one  or  two 
songs,  and  as  it's  Saturday  night,  we'll  conclude  the  whole 
with  Prayer  !"  I  burst  out  laughing,  the  screen  fell  down, 
Hill  couldn't  keep  his  face,  and  the  audience  joined  in  too ; 
the  consequence  was,  that  a  song  from  me,  and  a  Yankee 
story  from  Hill,  completed  the  night's  performance,  and  the 
thirty -seven  and  a  half  cents  were  invested  in  some  toddies 
before  we  retired  for  the  night. 

It  was  during  a  brief  stay  in  Portland  that  I  met  a  young 
man  who  informed  me  he  was  very  shortly  going  to  Italy, 
upon  a  visit  to  some  relations ;  but  for  the  sake  of  the 

3* 


58  Drifting  About 

voyage,  he  intended  to  take  passage  in  a  vessel  which  in  a 
few  days  would  sail  for  Malta  and  Smyrna,  and  he  wished 
me  very  much  to  try  and  arrange  my  affairs  so  as  to  make 
the  trip  with  him. 

I  was  always  very  fond  of  the  sea,  and  the  idea  of 
making  a  summer  voyage  along  the  classic  shores  of  the 
Mediterranean  was  too  great  a  temptation  to  be  lightly 
thought  of,  so  I  accordingly  husbanded  my  resources,  and 
bent  all  my  energies  to  the  accomplishment  of  my  wishes. 


XIV. 

SUMMER  TRIP   UP  THE   MEDITERRANEAN-. 

It  was  somewhere  about  the  end  of  July,  in  the  year 
1843,  that  I  found  myself  on  the  deck  of  the  barque 
"  George  Henry,"  Captain  Michael  Watson,  bound  for 
Malta  and  Smyrna. 

Prior  to  leaving  I  had  promisedmy  friend,  William  T. 
Porter,  Esq.,  then  the  Editor  of  "  The  Spirit  of  the  Times," 
whom  I  accidentally  met  at  the  "  Tremont  House,"  at  a 
quiet  little  "  sit  down,"  in  company  with  Captain  Eyrie, 
Henry  Russell  the  vocalist,  John  Olmstead,  Jack  Smith, 
Major  Whitcomb,  and  the  M  Deacon,"  that  I  would  scrib- 
ble an  occasional  letter  for  his  journal. 

I  had  been  christened  by  the  Editor  of  the  "  Spirit " 
during  my  "Olympic"  campaign  "  Col.  Pipes,"  one  even- 
ing during  a  session  of  the  "  Barclay  Street  Guards,"  at  a 
locality  known  in  those  days  as  "Franks,"  and  I  thought' 
it  a  good  name  to  perpetuate,  accordingly  my  communica- 
tions were  signed  "  Jeems  Pipes,"  a  few  of  which  I  have 
preserved,  and  will  now,  with  the  reader's  permission, 
herewith  introduce — 


SOME    "NOTES   OF   A   VOYAGER,"    DURING  A  TRIP   UP   THE 
MEDITERRANEAN   IN  THE   SUMMER   OF  1843. 

After  a  delightful  run  of  twenty  days,  we  saw  the  land 
of  Spain,  about  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  18th  of 


Drifting  About.  59 

August,  and  shortly  after  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Trafalgar. 
We  had  a  splendid  view  of  the  City  of  Tangiers  on  the 
Moorish  side,  and  the  Island  of  Tarifa  with  its  Lighthouse 
on  the  Spanish  side.  I  noticed  several  Feluccas ;  these 
boats  sail  remarkably  well,  I  am  told.  They  have  at 
Tarifa  a  celebrated  "  Gipsey  Inn,"  about  which  there  are 
many  extraordinary  legends. 

Feluccas  laden  with  hides  for  Cadiz  stop  here  in  order  to 
perform  quarantine.  The  island  is  charmingly  situated, 
and  is  only  fifteen  miles  from  Gibraltar. 

We  arrived  in  the  Bay  about  one  o'clock,  and  at  three 
the  Rock  was  in  sight. 

The  finest  view  you  get  is  from  the  east  side,  where  it 
rises  perfectly  straight  out  of  the  water.  On  the  extreme 
point  of  the  rock,  there  seemed  to  be,  as  I  viewed  it  through 
the  glass,  an  observatory  or  something  of  the  kind.  We 
had  a  fine  sight  of  the  Road,  and  a  fleet  of  vessels  anchored 
there. 

Hoisted  the  Ensign  and  Signal  and  passed  the  Rock, 
with  fine  strong  breezes,  and  clear  weather,  our  beautiful 
barque  going  a  good  ten  knots  an  hour,  and  lay  our  course 
for  Malta. 

The  weather  at  this  season  of  the  year,  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean, is  magnificent.  I  had  often  read  of  the  beauty  of 
the  sunsets,  but  must  confess  I  knew  little  of  their  grandeur 
until  I  had  for  myself  gazed  with  wonder  and  delight  upon 
them.  One  evening  in  particular  I  shall  never  forget.  The 
day  had  been  lovely,  not  too  warm,  and  a  clear  blue  Italian 
sky  had  stretched  above  us  since  morning.  At  about  six 
the  whole  western  sky  assumed  a  deep  salmon  color,  from 
which  the  sun,  like  a  ball  of  fire,  glared  out,  gradually  but 
almost  imperceptibly  approaching  nearer  and  nearer  the 
water's  edge — a  long,  long  range  of  clouds  of  fleecy  white- 
ness, appearing  in  the  distance  like  some  happy  land  far 
away,  spread  itself  a  short  space  above  the  horizon. 

The  sun  while  slowly  descending  gilded  the  tops  of  these 
clouds,  giving  them  the  appearance  of  long  roads  covered 
with  golden  sand.  Then  it  just  touched  the  edge  of  the 
water  sending  forth  a  stream  of  yellow  light  upon  the 
bosom  of  the  ocean — lower,  lower,  lower,  until  just  for  an 
instant  it  looks  like  a  star  on  the  horizon,  and  is  gone ! 


6o  Drifting  About 


to 


For  a  few  minutes  the  sky  seems  as  brilliant  as  ever, 
when  gradually  the  dazzling  colors  die  away,  leaving  a 
faint  glow  upon  the  clouds,  but  now  so  fairy-like  and 
beautiful,  marking  where  glory  once  had  been.  Never 
shall  I  forget  this  sunset. 

On  the  1st  of  September  came  in  sight  of  the  Island  of 
Gal  eta.  As  we  neared  the  Island  of  Goza,  I  could  see 
several  old  ruins,  monasteries,  etc.,  and  some  one  or  two 
small  towns.  The  Island  seemed  barren — all  rock,  nothing 
given  to  relieve  the  eye.  Commona  is  the  next  Island, 
next  came  Malta.  Some  two  miles  from  this  place,  we 
were  beset  by  about  twenty  boats,  filled  with  the  most 
extraordinary  looking  fellows,  jabbering  away  in  the  fun- 
niest manner  possible.  "  Capteen,  Q&pteen,  twelve  dollare, 
only  twelve  dollare — twenty  boats  goot  one's — small  ves- 
sels pay  twelve  dollare  capteen  /"  It  seems  they  wished  to 
pilot  us  in,  all  vessels  entering  the  Port  of  Malta  have  to  be 
towed  in  by  these  boats.  They  are  something  in  the  shape 
of  a  canoe,  and  are  propelled  by  some  four  or  five  men, 
who  stand  and  paddle  precisely  as  an  Indian  would.  Cap- 
tain Watson,  who  had  been  to  Malta  frequently,  and  knew 
well  the  imposing  nature  of  these  "  d — d  scoundrels,"  as 
he  called  them,  said,  "No,  no,  I'll  give  you  six  dollars  and 
no  more."  "  Oh,"  cried  the  foremost  man,  u  Capteen,  I'll 
tell  you,  give  nine  dollare — all  pay  dat!"  Away  they 
kept  yelling  out,  following  our  vessel,  until  one  of  them 
cried,  "Well,  well,  this  time  six  dollare."  "Hoist  away," 
sang  out  the  Captain,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  soon  hauled 
up  into  the  harbor. 

We  had  to  undergo  the  miseries  of  a  fine  day's  quaran- 
tine— so  we  hoisted  the  yellow  flag,  to  prevent  any  boats 
coming  near  us,  with  the  exception  of  the  "  Spenditors." 
All  shore  boats  are  kept  off,  and  the  office  boats  on  service, 
and  the  pilot  boats  always  keep  on  the  weather  side,  at  the 
regular  distance. 

Immediately  after  our  ship  came  to  anchor,  all  the  let- 
ters and  papers,  brought  by  her,  were  sent  to  the  Lazaretto 
for  fumigation,  and  then  forwarded  to  the  Post-office  for 
delivery.  All  the  ship's  boats  wear  a  yellow  flag  in  the 
bow,  and  they  are  not  permitted  to  go  to  any  part  of  the 
harbor,  except  to  the  Parlatory  at  the  Quarantine  Office 


Drifting  About.  61 

and  at  the  Lazaretto,  or  to  the  watering-place,  after  due 
permission — and  to  these  places  only  during  office  hours 
when  the  flag  is  flying. 

The  boats  are  always  attended  by  a  health  guardian,  and 
on  no  pretence  are  they  allowed  to  go  alongside  other  ves- 
sels in  quarantine.  They  do  not  allow  even  sails  to  be 
used  in  boats.  We  soon  saw  one  of  the  Spendit  or  boats 
making  for  our  barque,  bringing  all  kinds  of  provisions — 
grapes  and  every  variety  of  fruit.  In  this  harbor  I  had  a 
good  view  of  the  town.  There  were  several  men-of-war 
lying  here.  H.M.  Frigate  Belvidera,  H.M.  Brig  Savage, 
and  Frigate  Tyne,  also  the  Queen,  a  120-gun  ship,  (having 
the  flag  of  Vice- Admiral  Sir  E.  Eich.  Owen,  K,C.B.,)  also 
several  French  men-of-war  steamers*  The  Maltese  seem  to 
be  a  kind  of  mixture  of  the  Chinese  and  Indian  in  their 
appearance, — their  complexion  is  of  a  copper-color,  and 
their  language,  as  I  heard  them  bawling  from  the.  quays, 
seems  to  be  the  most  horrid  jargon  imaginable.  The 
American  Consul,  Mr.  Andrews,  paid  us  a  visit,  and  in- 
formed us  that  we  should  obtain  pratique  the  following 
day.  The  next  morning  at  about  six  o'clock,  I  went  in  the 
ship's  boat  on  shore,  and  met  the  Editor  of  the  "  Mediter- 
ranean Gazette,"  a  gentleman  to  whom  I  was  introduced 
by  our  Captain.  We  went  first  to  the  Casino,  and  thence 
to  his  house  in  the  Strada  Reale,  where  we  breakfasted. 

We  then  hired  a  caleche,  and  drove  first  to  the  church  of 
St.  John's.  There  is  nothing  at  all  striking  in  the  exterior 
of  this  building.  It  appears  built  (I  write  from  recollection) 
of  a  yellow  kind  of  stone,  but  the  interior  is  magnificent. 
The  church  is  not  very  large,  but  is  splendidly  ornamented. 

Then  there  are  a  great  many  interesting  associations  con- 
nected with  it.  Here  have  reposed  for  many  hundred  years 
the  bones  of  haughty  knights  and  cardinals  of  high  order. 
I  was  shown  by  a  man  with  shaved  head,  black  surplice, 
beads  and  cross  to  boot,  all  over  the  cathedral,  and  visited 
all  the  chapels.  In  one  he  pointed  out  to  me  a  magnificent 
silver  gate,  saved  from  the  hands  of  the  French  by  being 
painted  black,  they,  thinking  it  a  wooden  railing,  passed  it 
by ;  thus  leaving  the  most  valuable  relic  behind.  We  next 
went  into  the  vaults  beneath1  to  see  the  tombs,  our  guide 
preceding  us  with  a  torch  down  many  a  well-worn  step, 


62  Drifting  About. 

until  we  reached  the  iron  door  leading  to  the  abode  of  the 
dead.  In  his  right  hand  was  a  bunch  of  large  rust}'  keys, 
and  upon  applying  one  to  the  huge  door,  it  opened  with  a 
harsh  grating  noise.  The  atmosphere  was  damp  in  the 
extreme.  It  was  a  long  and  rather  low  arched  vault,  on 
each  side  of  which  were  several  marble  tombs,  carved  most 
beautifully,  with  the  bodies  of  the  knights  in  armor,  cut  out 
in  marble,  with  hands,  as  in  the  act  of  praying,  resting  on 
the  breast;  also  cardinals  full-robed,  chiselled  out  most 
exquisitely.  At  the  further  end  of  the  vault  there  was  an 
altar  with  some  long  old  iron  candlesticks  and  black  mar- 
ble steps,  all  dark  with  age,  at  which  perhaps  the  very 
knights  here  entombed  had  often  knelt  in  prayer.  A  small 
dark-colored  ivory  crucifix  hung  from  the  wall,  before 
which  our  guide  bowed  very  reverently.  There  is  to  me 
something  awfully  imposing  in  the  Catholic  form  of  religion, 
and  I  lingered,  looking  at  this  relic  of  by-gone  days,  until 
beekoned  by  my  friend  to  proceed  into  the  cathedral.  High 
mass  was  being  performed.  The  altar  is  very  grand,  and  is 
adorned  with  golden  candlesticks  and  magnificent  paintings. 
The  interior  of  this  church  is  very  spacious  and  of  great 
architectural  beauty. 

On  one  side  of  the  altar  is  a  throne  for  the  Bishop,  and 
on  the  opposite,  one  for  the  Governor  of  Malta,  with  the 
royal  arms  over  it.  The  pavement  is  richly  emblazoned 
with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  knights  in  mosaic,  most 
beautifully  blended,  and  under  the  arms  are  engraved  long 
Latin  inscriptions.  The  walls  are  completely  studded  with 
tablets,  busts,  banners,  &c,  and  are  carved  in  the  most  ela- 
borate manner  to  the  roof,  pencilled  with  gold  and  the  rich- 
est colors  imaginable.  From  the  body  of  the  cathedral,  on 
each  side,  are  different  chapels  belonging  to  the  different 
saints,  all  equally  beautiful.  I  stayed  for  hours  admiring 
the  many  memorials  here  left  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John 
and  their  companions. 

I  passed  several  old  confessionals,  where  priests  were 
occupied  with  many  a  fair  penitent.  Service  is  carried  on 
all  day ;  and  every  day  in  the  week,  in  and  out  walk  all 
sorts  of  people,  rich  and  poor,  noble  and  ignoble. 

Dotted  about  here  and  there,  I  saw  many  an  old  friar, 
with  shaved  head,  save  a  rim  round  his  forehead,  with  eyes 


Drifting  About.  63 

and  hands  upraised,  appearing  at  least  excessively  devo- 
tional. So  delighted  was  I  with  this  place,  that  I  visited  it 
several  times  during  my  stay.  From  hence  we  went  to  the 
Floriana  Gardens. 


XV. 

MALTA. 

The  Floriana  Gardens  are  situated  near  the  Kegina 
Piazza,  and  are  very  beautiful. 

Long  grounds  walled  in  with  stone,  having  at  each  end 
flights  of  steps  with  high  iron  gates.  Almost  every  thing 
here  is  artificial,  as  very  little  grows  in  Malta,  the  island 
being  rocky  and  barren ;  but  plants  of  every  description, 
flowers  of  various  kinds,  and  trees  of  every  name  and  height 
fill  the  air  with  all  sorts  of  delicious  odors. 

Then  there  are  long  well-laid-out  walks,  shady  groves, 
playful  fountains,  and  warbling  birds. 

These  gardens  are  frequented  by  numbers  of  persons ;  but 
all  beggars,  and  the  lower  orders  of  the  female  Maltese,  are 
excluded. 

Methinks  't  would  be  a  sweet  place  to  breathe  a  tale  of 
love  into  the  ear  of  some  fair  one  ;  for  I  find  that  here,  as 
well  as  in  Venice,  "  they  do  let  heaven  see  the  pranks  they 
dare  not  show  their  husbands."  The  streets  of  Malta  are 
crowded  with  a  pale  set  of  the  most  persecuting  beggars, 
whose  supplications  for  u  Carita"  are  annoying  in  the 
extreme.  Sometimes  the}'  will  even  lay  hold  of  your  coat, 
and  follow  you  till  you  throw  them  a  few  coppers. 

The  boats,  which  are  very  numerous,  deserve  particular 
attention.  I  had  a  better  opportunity  of  seeing  these  on 
shore  than  I  had  from  the  vessel.  They  are  very  commo- 
dious, and  are  kept  beautifully  clean  by  the  natives.  The 
one  1  took  was  a  perfect  little  palace,  painted  with  the  gay- 
est colors — a  large  eye  adorning  each  side  of  the  stern — 


being  provided  wjkk.a  white  awning  and  a  beautiful  set  of 

curtains.     The  hire  is 

ing  me  wo-pence  English  for  my  ride. 


very  moderate — the  boatman  charg- 


64  Drifting  About. 

Towards  evening  I  went  into  a  saloon,  No.  62  Strada 
Reale,  where  was  a  grand  "  Cosmorama,"  comprising  some 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  views  taken  from 
nature  that  I  had  ever  witnessed ;  a  portion  being  views  of 
Malta,  then  a  grand  panoramic  view  of  Constantinople, 
taken  from  the  Russian  Ambassador's  Palace,  a  very  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  Frozen  Sea,  and  the  grand  chains  of  the 
Caucasus  Mountains. 

They  were  painted  by  a  Signor  Diamanti,  and  were 
superb.  The  price  of  admission  was  only  an  English 
shilling.  I  and  my  friend  then  took  a  caleche,  and  had  a 
delightful  ride  from  Yaletta  to  the  celebrated  bay,  where 
the  apostle  Paul  is  supposed  to  have  been  shipwrecked. 

I  returned  about  eight,  when  I  took  boat  and  crossed  over 
to  Slema,  a  kind  of  watering-place,  where  the  wealthier 
portion  of  the  Maltese  usually  spend  their  summer  months. 
There  was  to  be  a  grand  display  of  fire-works,  it  being  the 
anniversary  of  some  saint  or  other,  and  the  company 
assembled  was  numerous,  but  the  fire-works  were  execrable, 
and  would  have  been  hissed  in  any  decent  town  in  America. 
In  Slema  reside  the  Austrian,  French,  Russian,  American, 
and  other  consuls,  the  Admiral  of  the  Port,  etc.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  sea  shore,  the  Mediterranean 
washing  its  banks.  The  weather  at  this  time  of  the  year  is 
lovely,  rainy  very  seldom — bright  blue-skies,  and  warm 
sun.  The  scene  on  Saturday  evening  was  a  novel  one,  at 
least  for  me.  Here  then  were  hundreds  of  men,  women  and 
children  jabbering  away  in  different  languages,  and  at  the 
top  of  their  voices ;  some  admiring  the  fire-works,  some 
yelling  and  hooting,  others  singing ;  then  the  band  of  the 

II  Queen"  just  heard  above  the  riot,  ladies  innumerable 
walking  to  and  fro,  dressed  in  white,  with  black  silk  hoods 
covering  their  heads  and  shoulders,  resting  on  the  arm  of 
some  baffy  fellow,  or  quietly  seated  on  a  projecting  piece 
of  rock,  watching  the  gay  scene.  Then,  a  turbaned  Turk, 
with  long  beard  and  pipe  in  mouth,  would  pass  me.  Then 
some  funny  looking  fellow,  dressed  in  black  cloth,  quaker- 
cut  clothes,  black  silk  stockings,  low  shoes,  and  three- 
cornered  hats — these  I  took  to  be  some  church  worthies. 
Spaniards,  Italians,  Turks,  Greeks,  Maltese,  passed  and 
repassed.     We  had  the  moon  high  above  us-  the  pale  and 


Drifting  About.  65 

placid  moon,  while  the  myriad  stars,  that  were  twinkling 
their  silver  eyes,  as  if  in  wonder  at  the  scene  beneath  them, 
were  reflected  in  the  clear  water  as  in  a  mirror.  It  was  a 
heavenly  night  I  The  bright  blue  Mediterranean  lay  calm 
and  still  as  an  infant  slumbering ;  and  Malta  in  the  distance, 
with  its  many  turrets,  towers  and  fortresses,  formed  alto- 
gether a  most  lovely  picture.  I  was  wandering  along  alone, 
and  had  progressed  sufficiently  far  to  be  rid  of  the  noise  of 
the  people,  when  I  saw  in  the  distance  the*  figure  of  a 
woman  standing  in  front  of  a  very  recherche  looking  villa. 
As  I  approached  she  slightly  drew  back,  I  turned  round, 
she  was  still  looking.  I  doffed  my  chapeau,  retraced  my 
steps — spoke  to  her,  and  to  my  no  small  delight  and  asto- 
nishment, she  returned  answer  in  English,  with  a  very  slight 
Spanish  accent.  I  now  had  a  good  opportunity  of  looking 
at  her  more  particularly.  She  was  about  the  middle  height, 
and  though  her  features  were  good,  her  eyes  black  and 
piercing,  and  her  hair  also  dark,  she  was  not  exactly  hand- 
some. There  were  certain  traces  of  care  and  anxiety 
about  the  face,  giving  it  a  melancholy  sadness  of  expression. 
She  was  symmetrically  formed,  and  had  the  prettiest  foot 
and  ankle  imaginable.  It  was  not  difficult  to  get  her 
consent  to  walk,  and  we  strolled  therefore  to  the  sea  shore, 
and  having,  after  some  trouble,  found  a  very  quiet  little 
nook,  where  we  might  remain  free  from  intruders,  we  sat 
down,  the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  rippling  at  our 
feet.  The  place  of  our  choice  had  evidently  been  appro- 
priated by  some  Sicilian  fishermen  to  purposes  of  use,  in 
keeping  their  nets,  tackle,  etc.  In  the  distance,  we  could 
see  numbers  of  little  feluccas,  looking  like  birds  on  the 
water;  it  was  as  light  as  day,  and  the  sea  sparkled  like 
diamonds  in  the  moonlight.  Well,  it  was  not  long  ere  I 
found  out  the  history  of  my  pretty  brunette.  She  had 
been  married  at  the  early  age  of  fourteen  to  a  man  some 
thirty  years  older  than  herself,  for  whom  she  had  never 
entertained  the  slightest  affection,  and  also  at  the  wish  of 
an  old  father,  who  had  been  in  the  army,  whose  sole  reason 
for  insisting  on  the  union  was  the  immense  wealth  of  the 
Spanish  suitor.  Her  mother  had  died  in  giving  her  birth, 
and  she  was  therefore  at  an  early  age  left  to  the  complete 
control  and  care  of  her  father.     She  was  a  native  of  Goza, 


66  Drifting  About. 

the  sister  island  of  Malta,  and  from  her  occasional  inter- 
course with  some  of  her  father's  friends  had  acquired  a 
knowledge  of  the  English  language.  Her  remaining 
parent  had  long  since  died,  and  she  had  therefore  no  one 
left  to  her  but  her  husband,  whose  harsh  and  cruel  treat- 
ment embittered  every  hour  of  her  existence.  It  was  pain- 
ful in  the  extreme  to  witness  the  deep-rooted  sorrow  of  this 
poor  girl,  and  the  comparative  resignation  with  which  she 
tried  to  bear  up  under  her  troubles.  She  had  every  luxury 
in  life — wanted  for  nothing,  but  there  were  no  kindred 
spirits  with  whom  her  youthful  heart  could  sympathize. 
Love  was  congealed  within  her  bosom,  and  it  appeared  to 
her  very  strange  that  anybody  could  enter  into  the  spirit 
of  her  thoughts,  or  endeavor  to  relieve  her  mind  from  its 
present  gloom.  She  had  ever  since  her  marriage  been  kept 
so  strictly,  that,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  she  had  never 
seen  a  human  face  but  her  husband's,  or  the  domestics  of 
the  house.  Her  husband  traded  between  the  two  islands, 
and  had  left  early  that  morning,  or  this  very  unlooked  for 
and  somewhat  romantic  meeting  would  not  have  taken 
place.  Fancying  the  lateness  of  the  hour  might  excite 
suspicion  in  some  of  the  inmates  of  her  dwelling,  I  proposed 
returning :  she  then  asked  me  if  I  would  accept  the  hospi- 
tality of  her  household,  as  I  had  told  her  the  vessel  in 
which  I  intended  to  sail  for  Smyrna  would  leave  the  follow- 
ing morning,  and  prevent  me  paying  her  another  visit.  I 
thanked  her,  and  gladly  availed  myself  of  her  kind  offer, 
and  we  both  strolled  in  the  direction  of  her  dwelling.  The 
night  was  still,  not  the  slightest  wind  stirring,  and  no  sound 
to  be  heard  save  our  own  feet  crushing  the  tiny  shell  of  the 
beach  as  we  walked  along — then  those  lines  of  Lord  Byron 
came  vividly  to  me — 

u  There  is  a  dangerous  stillness  in  that  hour, 

A  stillness  which  leaves  room  for  the  full  soul 
To  open  all  itself,  without  the  power 

Of  calling  wholly  back  its  self-control. 
The  silver  light,  which,  hallowing  tree  and  bower, 

Sheds  beauty  and  deep  softness,  o'er  the  whole, 
Breathes  also  to  the  heart,  and  o'er  it  throws 

A  loving  languor,  which  is  not  repose." 

In  time  we  reached  the  Yilla ;  some  Greek  servants  quickly 


Drifting  About. 


67 


brought  me  some  coffee  and  a  pipe,  which  having  enjoyed 
very  much,  I  was  shown  to  my  chamber  by  my  interesting 
hostess.  The  room  appointed  for  me  was  fitted  up  in  the 
most  chaste  and  beautiful  style  imaginable ;  in  the  corner 
opposite  the  door  was  a  divan  covered  with  a  rich  colored 
silk,  about  two  feet  from  the  floor,  over  which  hung  the 
lightest  network,  to  prevent  any  annoyance  from  insects, 
etc.  The  floor  was  inlaid  with  woods  of  different  color, 
and  every  variety  of  figure,  and  was  as  bright  as  the  most 
polished  mahogany.  The  windows  opened  into  a  kind  of 
Aviary  of  the  most  elegant  trellis  work ;  where  birds  of 
every  variety  of  plumage  were  quietly  roosting.  Numbers 
of  beautiful  flowers  adorned  the  lower  parts  of  the  windows, 
filling  the  room  with  delicious  fragrance. 


->M^SN> 


The  scene  from  the  window  was  lovely  indeed;  the 
bright  moon  creeping  through  the  thin  lattice-work,  danced 
in  a  thousand  fantastic  forms  on  the  curiously  carved  walls ; 
occasionally  through  the  open  lattice,  I  could  hear  the 
gentle  splash  of  the  muffled  oar  of  a  Gondolier,  bringing 
upon  the  night  breeze  to  my  grateful  ears  the  warbling  of 
sweet  voices  as  it  passed  along — while  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  stretched  out  before  me  the  bright  blue  waters. 
I  took  a  whiff  or  two  more  at  my  pipe,  and  feeling  somewhat 


68  Drifting  About. 

drowsy,  sought  my  novel  couch,  and  it  was  not  long  ere  I 
was  rambling  in  the  land  of  dreams. 

I  had  not  been  asleep,  I  should  think,  more  than  an  hour, 
when  I  was  suddenl}7-  awakened  by  a  loud  knocking  proceed- 
ing from  the  lower  part  of  the  house.  I  immediately 
jumped  up,  and,  taking  with  me  an  unloaded  pistol  that  I 
found  in  the  room,  quietly  opened  the  door  and  listened. 
Louder  and  louder  the  knocking  continued — bells  were 
ringing  in  every  direction — still  all  seemed  quiet  up  stairs. 
I  crept  to  the  top  of  the  staircase,  and  could  from  my 
position  see  everything  without  being  seen. 

Two  men  servants  were  trying,  as  well  as  they  could  with 
their  eyes  only  half  open,  to  unbar  the  door,  in  which  they 
ultimately  succeeded,  when  suddenly  they  were  knocked 
down  by  a  tall  brawny  savage-looking  Italian,  who  with  eyes 
flashing  fire,  cried  out,  "  Perche  Diavolo  mi  faceste  aspettare 
tanto  prima  d'aprire,"  when  the  foremost  of  the  men 
replied  "Dormivamo  si  profondamente,  che  non  udimmo  il 
vostro  picchiare,  se  non  quando  vennimo  svegliati  dal 
campanello  di  maclama."  The  Italian  seemed  a  little  more 
composed  upon  receiving  the  reply,  and  directing  one  of 
them  to  unsaddle  his  horse,  he  gave  to  the  other  a  small 
packet,  at  the  same  time  pointing  up  stairs  in  the  direction 
of  the  lady's  chamber.  I  remained  unobserved  in  my 
covert,  until  the  man  had  descended,  when  it  being  some- 
what dark,  and  not  having  properly  noted  my  own  door,  I 
unfortunately  pounced  in  upon  my  lady,  startling  her 
greatly.  Of  course  I  was  greatly  embarrassed,  and  was 
bowing  myself  out  in  the  best  manner  I  could,  when  she 
motioned  me  to  sit  down,  placing  her  finger  to  her  mouth 
for  me  to  observe  silence.  This  room  exceeded  by  far  in 
beauty  and  elegance  the  one  I  had  lately  occupied ;  every 
ornament  seemed  either  of  silver  or  gold :  delicious  odors 
emanated  from  pastile  burners  of  the  most  curious  work- 
manship, and  in  the  further  end  of  the  apartment  a  very 
beautiful  marble  fountain,  some  three  or  four  feet  in  height, 
sent  forth  a  bewitching  little  Spanish  melody.  In  about, 
the  middle  of  the  apartment,  on  a  small  divan  of  the  most 
gorgeous  colors,  reclined  the  fair  occupant  of  the  chamber. 
Her  black  hair  hung  in  long  flowing  tresses  over  shoulders 
of  the  most  perfect  symmetry,  her  head  being  lightly  bound 


Drifting  About.  69 

with  a  thin  band  of  gold,  from  the  centre  of  which 
glistened  a  large  diamond. 

In  her  hand  was  the  letter  brought  by  the  Italian,  over 
which  she  seemed  to  be  anxiously  poring.  She  started 
up  suddenly,  saying,  "  he  comes  home  early  this  morning !" 
The  letter  was  from  her  husband,  and  had  been  brought 
by  one  of  his  servants ;  something  unexpected  had  hap- 
pened on  the  island,  calling  him  immediately  home. 

I  saw  evidently  my  stay  would  now  be  short,  and  there- 
fore with  a  sad,  sad  heart  prepared  to  take  my  leave. 
Who  could  have  gazed  on  such  a  being  of  light  and  loveli- 
ness as  this — who  had  told  me  the  secrets  of  her  heart — 
without  feeling  a  pang  at  parting  ?  I  knew  full  well  that 
that  day  would  for  ever  end  the  happy  hours  we  had  passed 
together — that  thousands  of  miles  of  water  would  soon  roll 
between  us  I  I  cannot  remember  what  took  place — but 
never  in  the  course  of  my  wanderings  did  I  so  bitterly 
regret  the  hour  of  parting.  She  watched  at  the  gateway, 
till  the  windings-  of  the  •  cliff  prevented  me  seeing  her 
more. 

I  left  the  next  day, — and  in  a  few  hours  we  were  going 
a  good  ten  knots  in  the  "  George  Henry,"  bound  for 
Smyrna,  Asia  Minor. 


XVI. 

SMYKNA. 

On  the  10th  of  September  we  set  sail,  though  not  with  a 
fair  wind,  for  Smyrna.  The  day  was  beautiful,  and  a  few 
hours  found  us  again,  far  out  upon  the  sea.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  16th,  after  somedays^  calm,  a  fine  breeze  sprang 
up,  about  six  blowing  a  complete  gale  ;  we  hauled  in  stud- 
ding sails,  furled  mainsail  and  jib,  reefed  topsails,  etc. 
Blew  a  gale  all  night,  smashing  all  the  porter,  ale,  wine, 
and  brandy  we  had  on  board.  About  evening  the  penin- 
sula of  the  Morea  came  in  sight. 

On  the  20th  we  entered  the  Archipelago  from  the  west- 
ward between  Cerigo  and  the  Main ;  we  seemed  perfectly 


70  Drifting  About. 

surrounded  by  land,  passed  the  islands  of  Santarin,  Nau- 
plio,  Amargo,  Inolo,  Syphanto,  Syra,  etc. 

Several  of  these  we  saw  very  plainly,  and  on  the  island 
of  Thermia  I  could  with  the  glass  count  something  like  fifty 
or  sixty  windmills ! 

We  then  passed  the  islands  of  Ipsara  and  Scio. 

Ipsara  is  celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of  the  Greek 
admiral,  Canaris,  the  commander  of  the  Greek  fireships. 
On  the  25th  we  got  through  the  straits  between  Ipsara  and 
Scio,  although  the  winds  were  baffling ;  when  well  through, 
a  fine  breeze  caught  us,  carrying  us  up  to  Smyrna  Bay, 
having  our  studding  sails,  and  every  sail  set  that  would 
draw. 

The  first  remarkable  place  in  the  last  mentioned  bay, 
which  claimed  my  attention,  was  a  promontory  called  the 
"Iron  Head." 

It  is  on  these  mountains,  our  Captain  informed  me,  that 
the  much  sought  for  Sultana  raisins  are  cultivated.  When 
we  got  abreast  of  these,  we  shaped  our  course  along  the 
land — mountainous,  and  sprinkled  with  the  most  beautiful 
vineyards,  villas,  etc.,  belonging  to  the  wealthier  portions 
of  the  Turks, — for  another  range  of  mountains  called  the 
"Two  Brothers,"  which  appellation  they  have  obtained 
from  the  fact  of  their  having  two  very  conspicuous  mounds 
rising  higher  than  the  rest,  and  of  precisely  the  same 
height. 

When  close  under  these  I  had  the  first  view  of  the  beau- 
tiful country  about  Smyrna. 

Smyrna  is  a  city  of  the  first  rank  in  the  Turkish  Empire, 
and  is  the  capital  of  Asia  Minor,  and  next  to  Constantino- 
ple, I  believe,  is  the  largest  city  in  Turkey. 

It  is  beautifully  situated,  along  the  margin  of  a  large 
bay,  under  Mount  Pagus ;  and  is  the  grand  emporium  of 
Levantine  commerce. 

The  population  is  estimated  at  about  150,000,  consisting 
of  a  mixture  of  all  nations ;  Turks,  Greeks,  Jews,  Arme- 
nians, Persians,  Arabs,  Franks,  etc.  The  approach  to  the 
town  is  beautiful  with  the  numberless  towering  minarets — 
the  white  domes  of  the  mosques,  the  sombre-looking  groves 
of  cypress-trees,  etc. 

But  I  found  upon  entering  it,  all  its  beauty  vanished. 


Drifting  About.  71 

We  immediately  obtained  a  pratique,  having  a  "clean 
bill  of  health  "  from  Malta,  and  of  course  went  on  shore 
without  any  difficulty.  The  streets  are  dreadfully  dirty 
and  ill-paved ;  hardly  worth  the  name  of  alleys,  and  so 
narrow,  that  it  would  not  be  very  difficult  to  shake  hands 
from  opposite  windows. 

I  went  immediately  to  a  hotel,  kept  by  an  Italian, 
named  Salvo  Zara,  where  I  was  introduced  by  the  Captain 

to  my  future  fellow-passenger,  S ,  with  whom  I  dined 

and  passed  the  rest  of  the-day. 

In  the  morning  taking  with  me  a  guide — for  it  is  quite 
impossible  to  find  your  way  alone  in  Smyrna,  the  innume- 
rable twists  and  twinings,  alleys,  courts,  and  curious  wind- 
ings, rendering  it  impracticable — we  went  through  some 
of  the  bazaars,  gazing  with  delight  and  astonishment  on  the 
multitudes  of  men  and  women,  with  every  variety  of  dress 
and  costume,  that  passed  and  repassed  me ;  each  seeming  to 
speak  in  a  different  tongue.  Here  came  donkeys  with  huge 
saddles — then  long  trains  of  camels  with  tinkling  bells, 
carrying  heavy  loads  of  fruit. 

The  house  at  which  Lord  Byron  resided  during  his  brief 
sojourn  here  was  shown  me  in  the  portion  of  the  town 
known  as  the  "  Frank  Quarter." 

The  camel  and  dromedary  are  names  given  to  two  varie- 
ties of  the  same  animal.  The  principal  and  perhaps  the 
only  sensible  difference  by  which  these  two  races  are  distin- 
guished consists  in  this:  that  the  camel  has  two  humps  upon 
his  back,  whereas  the  dromedary  has  but  one ;  the  latter, 
also,  is  neither  so  large  nor  so  strong  as  the  camel.  This  is 
the  usually  received  opinion ;  but,  according  to  some,  the 
difference  between  them  is  not  that  one  has  two  humps  on 
its  back,  and  the  other  only  one ;  it  is  like  the  difference 
between  a  heavy  cart  horse  and  a  swift  riding  horse.  The 
dromedary  is  much  lighter,  swifter,  and  quicker  in  its  motions, 
but  the  Arabian  camel  and  dromedary  have  both  only  one 
hump,  though  the  camels  o£  other  regions  are  said  to  have 
two.  Of  the  two  varieties,  the  dromedary  is  by  far  the  most 
numerous,  the  camel  being  scarcely  found,  except  in  Turkey 
and  the  countries  of  the  Levant,  while  the  other  is  found 
spread  all  over  the  deserts  of  Arabia,  the  southern  parts  of 
Africa,  Persia,  Tartary,  and  a  great  part  of  the  Eastern 


72  Drifting  About. 

Indies.  Thus,  the  one  inhabits  an  immense  tract  of  coun- 
try ;  the  other,  in  comparison,  is  confined  to  a  province : 
the  one  inhabits  the  sultry  countries  of  the  torrid  zone ;  the 
other  delights  in  a  warm,  but  not  a  burning  climate.  They 
seem  formed  for  those  countries  where  shrubs  are  plentiful 
and  water  scarce ;  where  they  can  travel  along  the  sandy 
desert  without  being  impeded  by  rivers,  and  find  food  at 
expected  distances. 

The  camel,  I  am  told,  travels  several  days  without  drink- 
ing. In  the  vast  deserts,  where  the  earth  is  everywhere  dry 
and  sandy,  where  there  are  neither  birds,  beasts,  nor  vege- 
tables, where  nothing  is  seen  but  heaps  of  stone,  it  travels, 
posting  forwards  sometimes,  I  am  informed,  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  miles  within  the  hour,  without  requiring  drink  or 
pasture,  and  is  often  found  to  go  six  or  seven  days  without 
any  sustenance  whatever.  The  feet  of  this  animal  seem  to 
be  formed  for  travelling  on  sand,  and  utterly  unfit  for  moist 
or  marshy  places ;  the  inhabitants,  therefore,  find  a  most 
useful  assistant  in  this  animal,  where  no  other  could  subsist ; 
and  by  its  means  cross  the  deserts  with  safety,  which  would 
be  impossible  by  any  other  mode  of  conveyance.  Well  does 
it  merit  the  appellation  given  to  it,  the  "  Desert  Ship." 

I  could  not  help  noticing  the  great  beauty  of  the  Greek 
women ;  but,  generally  speaking,  their  forms  are  bad,  and 
their  feet  somewhat  large.  The  style  of  cap  they  wear  is 
pretty;  it  is  covered  with  gold  or  silver  lace,  their  hair 
being  braided  around  it.  The  Armenian  women  are  ex- 
tremely beautiful  and  fair  ;  they  have  their  own  quarter  of 
the  town,  and  wear  also  a  costume  of  their  own.  I  went  to 
see  them  worship  in  one  of  their  churches.  The  men  and 
women  were  separated  by  bars — kneeling  and  praying, 
thumping  their  foreheads  pretty  frequently.  The  women, 
veiled  in  white,  kissed  the  priest's  hand — left  the  church — 
first  putting  on  their  shoes.  I  then  took  a  stroll  into  the 
Jewish  quarter  of  the  town,  and  was  struck  with  the  hand- 
some appearance  of  the  men.  Such  magnificent  heads! 
studies  for  an  artist ! — large,  high  foreheads — aquiline  nose 
— piercing  black  eye — swarthy  complexion  and  long  grey 
beards.  The  other  sects  seem  to  hold  them  in  derision,  and 
heap  upon  them  all  kinds  of  oppression  and  contumely. 

Some  of  the  women  are  very  beautiful ;   their  dress  is 


Drifting  About.  73 

extremely  picturesque — a  girdle  of  magnificent  gold  links 
twisted  round  the  waist,  a  fillet  of  gold  around  the  head,  and 
thick  bracelets  on  the  wrists,  all  of  the  same  material. 

Having  brought  with  me  a  letter  of  introduction,  from  a 

gentleman  in  Boston,  to  Mr.  L ,  an  American  merchant, 

who  had  resided  many  years  in  Smyrna,  I  called  at  his 
office  to  present  it,  upon  which  he  very  politely  invited  me 
to  spend  a  few  days  with  him  at  his  country  house  in 
Boujah,  a  beautiful  little  village  where  the  American  and 
English  merchants  usually  spend  their  summer  months. 
At  about  six,  Mr.  L.  and  I  started  from  our  hotel.  Two 
very  comely-looking  mules,  with  very  capacious  saddles, 
were  now  brought  to  the  door.  We  mounted,  followed  by 
a  little  Greek  boy,  whose  province  it  was  to  drive  the  ani- 
mal onward,  by  applying,  and  pretty  smartly,  too,  a  thick 
stick  to  his  back. 

Away  we  jolted  through  innumerable  small  streets,  alleys, 
carts,  and  gateways,  the  boy  continually  crying  out,  uDuer! 
duerP  which  my  friend  told  me,  in  Yankee  meant,  "  Go 
lang!" 

Having  trotted  pretty  rapidly,  we  soon  reached  the  Turk- 
ish burial-ground,  about  which  I  will  make  but  the  briefest 
mention. 

Wending  my  way  through  intricate  and  curious  alley- 
ways, streets,  and  zigzag  windings,  I  suddenly  came  upon 
the  burial-place  of  the  dead.  I  was  struck  with  the  solemn 
grandeur  of  the  place.  Thousands  of  majestic  cypress  trees 
waved  around  me ;  the  ground  was  literally  covered  with 
white  marble  tombs  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  curiously 
carved ;  the  greater  part  having  a  turban  cut  in  .stone  at 
the  top.  It  was  getting  quite  dark,  and  we  had  progressed 
sufficiently  far  to  be  rid  of  the  noise  in  the  city.  Every- 
thing still  as  the  hearts  of  those  now  lying  beneath  our 
feet. 

I  turned  my  mule's  head  towards  the  town  to  observe  its 
appearance,  when  lighted  up — it  happened  to  be  the  time 
of  the  Kamazan,  or  feasting  month,  and  in  the  evening  all  is 
hilarity  and  glee — hundreds  of  lights  glistened  brightly  from 
the  tops  of  the  different  minarets,  looking  like  crowns  of 
variegated  lamps  suspended  in  the  air.  So  long  as  the  sun 
is  in  the  sky,  the  faithful  abstain  wholly  from  eating,  drink- 

4 


74  Drifting  About. 

ing,  and  sleeping ;  but  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes  clown,  all 
are  cheerful,  nay  even  boisterous.  We  rode  along  until  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  summit  of  an  old  castle,  standing  near 
the  site  of  ancient  Smyrna.  These  walls  have  remained 
something  like  2200  years !  The  front  of  the  fortress  was 
just  visible,  and  part  of  the  tower.  The  rising  moon  just 
tipped  its  old  walls  with  silver,  rendering  the  view  more 
imposing.  We  jogged  along  slowly  up,  as  I  thought,  a 
steep  hill,  when  upon  coming  to  the  top,  my  companion 
turned  to  me  and  said :  "  Now  we  are  some  2000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea :"  so  it  seems  we  had  been 
trudging  up  a  mountain. 

We  soon  found  ourselves  nearing  the  little  village  of 
Boujah  ;  two  colored  lamps  shone  brightly  from  among  the 
trees  in  the  distance  which  our  mules  seemed  to  understand, 
for  they  kept  up  a  continual  gallop  until  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  village. 

The  road  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  you  enter 
is  pretty  good.  As  soon  as  we  got  within  a  stone's  throw 
of  the  place,  we  were  beset  by  a  multitude  of  Greek  boys, 
wishing  to  take  our  mules.  On  each  side  of  the  road — a  little 
wider  than  the  streets  of  the  city — were  small  shops 
occupied  by  Greeks.  Different  colored  lamps  lighted  up 
each,  and  at  the  doors  were  seated  groups  of  these  hand- 
some fellows  smoking  long  pipes,  the  comeliest  women  the 
sun  ever  shone  upon,  occasionally  bringing  them  their 
coffee  in  dapper  little  china  cups  with  plated  bowls. 

We  left  our  mules  at  a  little  hotel,  kept  by  the  Italian 
of  whom  I  have  before  spoken,  and  at  the  suggestion  of  my 

friend  L ,  took  a  pedestrian  trip  over  the  mountains. 

The  night  was  lovely,  indeed ;  and  the  view  of  the  town  of 
Smyrna,  lit  up,  as  it  was,  by  a  thousand  variegated  lights, 
was  magnificent. 

The  sky  studded  with  stars,  a  few  faint  clouds,  slightly 
tinged  with  the  hues  of  evening,  lingered  on  the  horizon, 
like  the  last  incense  from  some  mighty  altar.  The  air  was 
still,  and  breathing  the  odor  of  the  wild  jessamines  and 
myrtle  which  clothed  the  side  of  the  mountain ;  all  was 
richness,  splendor,  and  repose. 

As  the  breeze  came  freshly  up  the  mountain,  our  eyes 
roved  over  the  glorious  scene ;  above,  the  silent  and  glitter- 


Drifting  About.  75 

ing  stars ;  far  below,  the  sweep  of  the  ocean,  on  which 
were  the  sails  of  many  nations  ;  even  the  deep  murmur  of 
the  waves  came  over  our  ears,  mingled  with  the  softer 
sounds  of  the  pipe  and  tamborine,  the  music  of  the  ham- 
lets. 

It  was  besides,  as  I  said  before,  the  night  of  the  Ea- 
mazan ;  this,  all  the  world  knows,  is  the  only  thing  want- 
ing to  make  a  Turkish  summer  evening  the  perfection  of 
beauty.  As  I  was  standing,  I  heard  the  evening  gun  fire, 
and  the  whole  famous  exhibition  rapidly  followed.  Mosque 
after  mosque  blazed  out  in  light  as  if  it  were  roofed 
with  jewels.  Towers,  hitherto  invisible,  suddenly  shot  up, 
like  fixed  flames,  of  all  shapes,  heights,  and  colors,  all  was 
glittering,  glowing,  and  magnificent.     We  then  strolled  in 

the   direction   of   Mr.  L 's   dwelling.     The   gate  was 

quickly  opened  by  a  pretty  Greek  girl,  and  we  entered  the 
grounds.  The  house  stands  in  about  the  centre  of  the 
garden,  and  is  beautifully  constructed  ;  all  the  rooms  on  the 
lower  floor — there  being  no  second  story — and  on  each  side, 
are  large  and  commodious  wings  for  sleeping  apartments. 

Mr.  L.  soon  appeared.  I  was  then  introduced  to  his 
lady,  a  charming-looking  Greek  woman,  a  native  of  Smyrna. 

I  never  can  forget  the  kindness,  hospitality,  and  atten- 
tion received  at  the  hands  of  this  excellent  family ;  and  it 
affords  me  infinite  pleasure  in  being  thus  able  to  record 
their  kind-heartedness  and  liberality.  The  next  day  I  had 
another  view  of  real  Asiatic  scenery.  On  the  mountain 
elevation  you  have  a  most  extended  view  of  the  distant 
islands,  the  beautiful  harbor,  and  the  ocean.  Herds  of 
camels  were  grazing  quietly  near  me,  attended  by  the 
handsomest  looking  shepherds  imaginable. 


76  Drifting  About. 


XVII. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Having  received  a  polite  invitation  from  Captain  Paige, 
formerly  of  Augusta,  Maine,  who  I  believe  was  the  first  to 
run  a  steamship  on  the  Turkish  waters,  I  accompanied 
him  in  his  snug  little  craft  to  the  far-famed  City  of  the 
Sultan.  We  came  to  anchor  in  the  Golden  Horn  about 
midnight.  To  the  left  we  had  just  passed  the  Seven 
Towers,  peeping  out  above  the  dark  walls ;  everything  was 
still,  no  rattling  of  carriages,  no  move  of  any  kind.  Here 
then  burst  upon  my  view  the  far-famed  city  of  the  Sultan  I 
The  night  was  clear,  and  the  silvery  moon  shone  brightly 
in  the  heavens.  Groves  upon  groves  of  cypress  trees  fol- 
lowed each  other  in  quick  succession  ;  then  the  bold  moun- 
tain scenery,  surrounding  it  on  the  Turkish  as  well  as  on 
the  Asiatic  side,  giving  to  it  a  grandeur  indescribable. 
Hundreds  of  glittering  minarets,  towering,  white  and 
majestic,  their  spires  tipped  with  silver,  and  domes  of 
gigantic  mosques  rose  up  before  me. 

Then  the  seraglio  and  harem  of  the  Sultan  were  pointed 
out  to  me,  consisting  of  palaces,  rather  modern  than  other- 
wise, and  a  very  large  range  of  rooms,  looking  like  the 
cells  of  a  prison.  The  wall  is  yet  remaining,  and  is  three 
miles  in  extent.  This  denotes  the  limit  of  the  ancient  city 
of  Byzantium,  called  so  when  occupied  by  the  Eomans, 
under  Constantine  the  Great. 

The  Eamazan  was  still  kept  up,  and  the  sight  of  this 
immense  city  on  a  moonlight  night  was  very  imposing. 

Thousands  of  variegated  lamps,  in  the  form  of  stars,  and 
different  kinds  of  flowers,  trembled  in  the  air,  and  the 
cupolas  of  all  the  mosques,  illuminated  so  magnificently, 
that  they  seemed  to  spring  from  an  ocean  of  variegated 
fire. 

My  eyes  drank  in  with  enthusiasm  the  magic  of  the  scene 
before  me,  and  my  dreams  that  night  were  as  fairy-like  and 
lovely  as  the  wondrous  scenes  I  had  that  day  witnessed. 
The  next  morning  I,  with  my  friend  Captain  Paige,  (the 


Drifting  About.  77 

present  Commander  of  the  "  Marmora"  Steamship,)  went 
on  shore  early ;  the  beautiful  bay  was  literally  covered 
with  caiques,  darting  like  arrows  every  minute,  filled  with 
veiled  women  and  men  of  all  nations.  They  are  long 
narrow  wherries,  covered  in  the  most  elegant  manner, 
adorned  with  golden  bronze ;  but  are  so  lightly  built  as  to 
be  in  constant  danger  of  upsetting,  when  you  have  to  sit 
down  at  the  bottom  and  endeavor  to  preserve  the  necessary 
equilibrium,  by  inflexions  of  the  body,  either  to  the  right  or 
left,  as  may  be  requisite  from  the  motion  of  the  waves. 

They  have  the  most  delicious  divans,  cushions,  etc.,  on 
which  to  recline,  and  are  rowed  by  Turks  dressed  in  the 
whitest  linen,  fitting  close  to  the  skin,  having  full  sleeves, 
full  linen  trowsers  coming  down  to  the  knee,  and  on  the 
head  a  red  cloth  scull-cap,  with  long  flowing  silk  tassel. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  over  90,000  of  these  fairy- 
like boats  on  the  Bosphorus.  The  hire  is  very  reasonable, 
on  account  of  their  great  number ;  you  go  a  considerable 
distance  for  one  piastre,  or  about  two  cents. 

We  went  first  to  Pera,  and  put  up  at  the  Hotel  de 
l'Eufope,  kept  by  an  Italian.  It  is  an  excellently  conducted 
house,  and  I  would  advise  all  travellers  to  go  there :  it  is 
also  exclusively  the  dwelling  of  the  Franks. 

The  Hotel  is  situated  in  a  long  avenue  called  the  Corso 
of  Pera,  from  the  windows  of  the  front  room  of  which  may 
be  witnessed  many  extraordinary  sights,  whilst  the  view 
from  the  back  presents  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
panoramas  in  the  world.  Underneath,  to  the  left,  stretches 
out  before  you  the  beautiful  harbor  of  Top-hana ;  to  the 
right  is  Galeta,  built,  I  believe,  by  the  Genoese ;  still 
beyond,  the  Golden  Horn,  upon  whose  waters  many 
hundreds  of  colossal  ships,  from  all  parts  of  the  globe,  are 
quietly  resting.  Passing  them  you  will  see  numbers  of 
little  gilt  caiques  cutting  through  the  waves  like  dolphins. 

On  the  opposite  shore  lies  Constantinople,  with  its 
pointed  Seraglio  Tower,  its  beautiful  cupolas,  and  its  thou- 
sands of  slim  minarets  peering  upwards  in  the  air.  Across 
the  Bosphorus,  in  another  quarter  of  the  world,  yet  hardly 
ten  minutes'  trip,  lies  Scutari,  with  all  its  groves  of  cy- 
presses. The  mountain  chains  of  Asia  are  seen  in  the 
distance,  and  the  beautiful  "  Prince  Islands,"  raising  their 


78  Drifting  About. 

heads  from  the  bosom  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora.  Taking  a 
walk  through  the  bazaars,  I  saw  a  large  crowd  collected 
at  the  corner  of  one  of  the  streets,  and  upon  inquiring  of 
my  companion,  found  out  that  one  of  the  celebrated  "  story 
tellers"  of  Constantinople  was  delighting  his  numerous 
auditory  with  the  recital  of  some  extraordinary  legend  or 
other. 

The  man  was  raised  some  feet  above  his  listeners,  and 
seated  in  the  same  manner  a  tailor  would  be  on  his  bench. 
The  story  seemed,  from  the  great  attention  paid  the  speaker, 
to  be  of  a  highly  interesting  nature,  for  at  its  conclusion 
the  astonishment  of  the  multitude  seemed  great  indeed. 
My  friend  translated  to  me,  as  we  stood  and  listened,  the 
somewhat  extraordinary  legend  of  the  old  Turk. 

It  was  nearly  in  the  following  words : — ■ 

"  In  the  town  of  Eabdju  there  lived,  some  hundred  years 
ago,  a  Greek  fisherman,  who  had  amassed  a  goodly  fortune 
by  constantly  trading  in  the  islands  of  the  Archipelago  and 
buying  up  the  loveliest  Circassian  women  for  the  harems  of 
the  Sultan  ;•  he,  besides  this,  owned  more  caiques  than  any 
other  trader  in  the  province.  He  had  been  from  his  earliest 
youth  passionately  fond  of  music,  and  having  resided  the 
former  part  of  his  life  in  some  of  the  Neapolitan  cities,  had 
acquired  a  considerable  taste  for  the  science,  and  on  all  occa- 
sions had  been  an  eager  listener  when  anything  musical  was 
going  on.  He  bought  himself  a  guitar,  and  to  the  study  of 
his  instrument  he  devoted  all  his  leisure  time.  As  he  grew 
up,  he  became  more  and  more  attached  to  his  favorite 
amusement,  and  having  amassed  a  very  snug  fortune  by 
his  trafficking,  he  married,  and  retired  to  pass  the  remainder 
of  his  days  in  the  quiet  little  town  of  Eabdju,  near  the  Gulf 
of  Lepanto. 

"  Here  he  had  nothing  to  disturb  him  in  his  devotedness 
to  his  favorite  pastime,  and  as  his  children  grew  up  their 
ears  became  familiar  with  the  different  Italian  airs  he  would 
be  constantly  playing  to  them.  One  air  in  particular  seemed 
to  charm  him  above  all  others,  and  when,  as  the  sun  sank 
in  the  rosy  west,  and  soft  twilight  followed,  the  old  Greek 
would  wander  forth  with  one  or  two  of  his  children  to  some 
favorite  spot,  and  draw  forth  from  his  old  rusty-looking 
instrument  the  tones  that  pleased  him  so  well  in  his  boy- 


Drifting  About.  79 

hood,  his  eyes  would  fill  with  tears,  and  for  a  time  he  seemed 
lost  in  thought. 

"  The  effect  of  the  music  seemed  to  enervate  him  so  com- 
pletely, that  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  keep  the  guitar 
from  his  sight. 

"  He  lingered  a  few  years,  and  died  very  suddenly  at  an 
advanced  age,  and  at  his  death  it  was  found  that  he  had 
locked  up  or  hidden  all  his  treasure,  consisting  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, and  precious  stones,  in  some  place  unknown  to  any  of 
his  wives  or  children. 

"  Great  was  the  consternation,  great  was  the  disappoint- 
ment and  vexation  of  his  household;  he  not  having  left 
enough  to  pay  the  actual  expenses  of  his  burial. 

"  At  last  the  youngest  boy  bethought  him  of  an  experi- 
ment— he  really  believed  he  could  awaken  his  dead  father ! 

"  Accordingly,  he  took  down  the  old  instrument  that  had 
been  forgotten  for  so  long  a  time,  and  with  streaming  eyes 
commenced  to  sing  and  play  over  the  body  the  air  which 
was  the  favorite  of  the  old  man  when  living.  Hour  after 
hour  passed — still  no  sign  of  recognition.  But  the  little 
fellow  continued,  until,  at  last,  watching  steadily,  he  fancied 
the  slightest  color  possible  tinged  the  cheek  of  the  dead 
man ! 

"  Was  it  imagination  ?  No !  The  ghastly  hue  of  death 
had  left  the  face — the  lips  quivered — the  eyelids  opened — 
the  eye  glared  boldly  around,  and  tears  flowed  in  streams 
down  the  old  man's  cheeks.  Life  had  indeed  returned  ;  the 
object  was  obtained.  The  old  man  lived  sufficiently  long 
to  tell  the  hiding-place  of  his  wealth." 

Thus  ended  the  tale  of  the  "  story  teller"  of  Constantino- 
ple. Having  brought  letters  of  introduction  to  an  English 
gentleman,  who  had  resided  some  thirty  years  in  Stamboul, 
and  who  offered  me  every  kindness  and  attention,  I  had 
opportunities  of  seeing  a  good  deal  of  the  city  and  its 
delightful  environs,  during  the  short  time  I  proposed  stay- 
ing ;  and  I  found  in  his  son  a  very  kind  and  gentlemanly 
companion,  who  was  by  my  side  constantly,  and  with  whom 
I  made  several  delightful  excursions. 

Having  expressed  a  great  wish  to  make  a  trip  to  the 
"  Sweet  Waters,"  I,  with  my  friend,  hired  a  caique,  and 
comfortably  reclining  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  on  a  very 


8o 


Drifting  About. 


agreeable  divan,  I  watched  the  magnificent  landscapes  that 
on  all  sides  surrounded  me.  It  is  situated  on  the  shores  of 
the  Bosphorus,  near  an  Asiatic  castle,  in  a  very  beautiful 
meadow,  through  which  the  river  meanders.  The  Sultan 
has  a  country  residence  here,  to  which  he  retires  in  the 
summer  time.  On  arriving,  the  scene  was  novel,  picturesque, 
and  beautiful. 

The  meadows  and  hills  shone  in  a  fresh  verdant  dress, 
and  through  the  tall  cypresses  glittered  the  Sultan's  splen- 
did kiosk.  Here  were  hundreds  of  Turkish  men  and 
women  seated  together  in  picturesque  groups  upon  the 
grassy  carpet. 

We  had  taken  with  us  some  provisions,  intending  to 
remain  one  or  two  days,  should  the  wind  or  weather  prove 
agreeable.  We  therefore  unpacked  our  eatables,  and  having 
drunk  a  little  sherbet,  left  our  caique,  leaving  the  men  to 
take  care  of  her  till  our  return. 

The  beautiful  scenery  surrounding  me  on  all  sides,  I  shall 
never  forget.  After  a  long  walk,  we  returned  to  our  boat, 
intending  to  proceed  still  further  up  the  Bosphorus. 


Drifting  About.  8l 

Having  received  an  invitation  from  the  American  Consul, 
to  attend  the  celebration  of  the  disinterment  of  the  remains 
of  Commodore  Porter,  the  late  American  Minister  at  the 
Turkish  Court,  I  went  on  board  the  steamship  "Eni 
Dunia,"  chartered  by  the  resident  Americans  for  that 
purpose. 

The  Commodore  had  died  some  nine  months  previously, 
and  the  body  had  been  kept  in  spirits,  in  a  large  stone 
coffin  ;  a  grave  had  been  temporarily  dug  for  its  reception 
in  his  own  garden,  near  his  summer  mansion  at  St. 
Stephano. 

The  U.  S.  brig  "  Truxton"  had  been  sent  by  the 
Government  expressly  to  carry  the  remains  of  the  gallant 
Commodore  to  his  native  land,  and  now  lay  in  the  Bos- 
phorus  for  that  purpose. 

The  party  assembled  on  board  the  steamer,  was  very 
numerous,  comprising  the  foreign  ministers  of  the  different 
countries,  the  officers  of  H.  B.  M.  ship  "  Devastation"  and 
the  U.  S.  brig  "  Truxton"  with  the  Commander,  Lieutenant 
Upsher,  and  the  resident  American  and  English  merchants. 
We  left  Stamboul  about  11  o'clock.  It  was  glorious  day, 
and  after  a  two  hours'  trip,  we  anchored  at  St.  Stephano. 

This  is  a  beautiful  little  island  eighteen  miles  from  Con- 
stantinople, occupied  by  Greek  and  American  families,  and 
also  a  few  Turks. 

We  walked  in  the  direction  of  the  late  Commodore's 
dwelling.  The  old  mansion  looked  gloomy  indeed,  shaded 
as  it  was  by  tall  dark  cypress  trees.  The  house  had  been 
closed  some  time,  the  portion  of  his  family  residing  with 
him  at  the  time  of  his  death  having  left  for  Gal  eta. 

We  then  proceeded  to  the  place  of  interment.  As  we 
neared  the  vault,  we  could  see  the  American  flag  half  mast 
high,  waving  over  the  place,  a  more  lovely  spot  (close  to 
the  beautiful  sea  of  Marmora)  could  not  have  been  chosen ; 
flowers  of  all  kind3  were  glowing  near  his  grave  ;  roses  in 
full  bloom  were  sending  forth  their  odor,  mingled  with 
that  of  numberless  wild  plants.  Presently  came  about 
twenty  of  the  sailors  of  the  Truxton,  marching  slowly 
along.  Arrived  at  the  grave,  they  waited  for  the  word  of 
the  First  Lieutenant ;  at  the  given  signal  the  immense  coffin 
was  hoisted  from  its  temporary  abode ;  the  Commodore's 

4* 


82  Drifting  About. 

regulation  hat  was  then  placed  upon  it,  over  which  was 
thrown  the  Flag  of  the  Union. 

The  cortege  marched  in  the  following  order :  First,  the 
Deputies  of  the  principal  Legations ;  second,  a  piquet  from 
the  Truxton ;  then  a  body  of  marines,  preceded  by  the 
band  playing  the  dead  march,  followed  by  the  Protestant 
clergy ;  next  came  the  coffin,  carried  by  twenty  American 
sailors;  then  the  Ministers  of  Sardinia  and  Spain,  the 
Charge  d' Affaires  of  Sweden,  Naples,  and  Belgium  support- 
ing the  pall ;  then  came  the  relations  of  the  deceased ;  after 
them  the  American,  English,  and  Russian  Officers,  Mer- 
chants, etc. ;  the  sailors  of  the  Truxton  bringing  up  the 
rear.  When  arrived  at  the  stairs,  the  cortege  went  on 
board  the  steamer ;  a  guard  of  honor  was  placed  around 
the  coffin,  and  we  quitted  the  peaceful  shores  of  St.  Ste- 
phano,  one  of  the  sweetest  spots  in  the  world. 

When  we  arrived  opposite  the  Seraglio  point,  the  Trux- 
ton fired  a  salute  of  seventeen  guns,  which  was  answered  by 
the  English  frigate  Devastation.  At  five  we  anchored 
near  the  Truxton,  and  the  body  was  soon  placed  on  board. 

Thus  finished  this  interesting  ceremony,  which  was  con- 
ducted throughout  with  the  greatest  decorum,  and  the 
utmost  solemnity ;  all  alike,  from  the  highest  officer  to  the 
meanest  seamen,  seemed  deeply  impressed  with  the  spirit 
of  the  scene. 

The  next  day  I,  with  my  friend  Churchill,  went  to  see 
the  "  Thousand  and  one  columns."  The  entrance  lay  down 
flights  of'  steps,  some  hundreds  of  which  we  had  to  descend 
ere  we  reached  the  bottom  of  the  subterranean  caverns. 
The  place  was  damp  in  the  extreme  ;  thousands  of  misera- 
ble, pale-looking  Turks  were  here  spinning  silk.  In  olden 
times  this  place  was  used  to  carry  water  to  its  inhabitants. 
We  were  shown  through  the  place  by  one  of  the  spinners 
for  the  small  sum  of  five  piastres,  with  which  he  seemed 
mightily  pleased. 

We  then  went  to  the  Tomb  of  the  late  Sultan  Mahmoud  ; 
but  to  attempt  to  give  any  idea  of  the  magnificence  of  this 
place  would  be  ridiculous  ;  I  will  simply  mention  that  the 
tomb  alone  cost  $500,000. 

I  had  several  opportunities  of  seeing  the  present  Sultan, 
but,  wishing 'to  get  a  nearer  peep,  I  took  a  caique,  that  I 


Drifting  About.  83 

might  see  him  as  he  crossed  from  his  palace  on  his  way  to 
the  mosque.  Every  Friday  he  visits  a  different  one,  either 
in  Constantinople  or  the  suburbs.  Not  knowing  to  which 
one  he  would  direct  his  steps  on  this  occasion,  I  went  to  a 
coffee-house  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Porte,  whence  I  could 
conveniently  make  my  observations.  All  was  animation 
around  the  Seraglio;  black  and  white  eunuchs,  court 
officials,  and  the  Turkish  soldiers  were  all  in  motion ;  the 
latter  formed  a  long  chain  from  the  gate  of  the  Seraglio  to 
the  chosen  mosque.  At  some  distance  from  each  other 
military  bands  were  placed. 

The  Sultan  soon  appeared,  mounted  on  a  very  handsome 
white  Arabian  horse.  The  young  prince  has  rather  a  fine 
head,  but  his  face  is  devoid  of  the  slightest  expression, 
somewhat  of  a  pale  cast,  large  dark  eyes,  aquiline  nose,  and 
a  very  slight  mustache  and  imperial.  He  was  dressed  in  a 
blue  frock  military  cut  coat,  blue  trowsers,  with  red  stripe, 
black  French  leather  boots,  whereto  small  brass  spurs  were 
attached.  By  his  side  he  had  a  costly  scimetar,  and  the 
simple  red  fez,  with  a  blue  tassel,  was  on  his  head. 

A  long  suite  of  pages  and  court  domestics,  among  whom 
was  recognised  the  never-failing  pipe-bearer,  etc.,  closed  the 
procession.  The  Sultan  seemed  to  greet  the  people  very 
courteously. 

I  was  invited  in  the  evening  to  the  house  of  my  young 
friend,  Churchill.  His  father  (an  Englishman  by  birth) 
having  resided  many  years  in  the  Turkish  capital,  and  who 
had  married  a  Greek  lady,  by  whom  he  had  several  children, 
lived  quite  in  the  Greek  style.  His  daughters  sang  and 
played  delightfully,  and  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see 
on  the  piano  an  English  copy  of  the  far-famed  song,  "  Wood- 
man, spare  Oiat  Tree/"  which  one  of  these  Greek  ladies  sang 
to  me!  The  popularity  of  this  song  is  unprecedented. 
There  were  several  other  pieces  of  music  I  noticed  publish- 
ed in  New  York — among  them  songs  by  Charles  Horn, 
and  a  beautiful  little  ballad  by  H.  C.  Watson,  entitled, 
"  There's  a  spot  of  earth  more  dear."  It  seemed  funny  to 
hear  these  songs  warbled  forth,  very  sweetly  too,  by  a 
bewitching  Greek  girl. 

The  carriages  used  by  Turkish  ladies,  to  pay  distant 
visits  (the  men  are  all  equestrians),  afford  a  singular  spec- 


84 


Drifting  About. 


'to 


tacle.  Their  vehicles  are  called,  as  with  us,  Kotschi 
(coaches)  or  aroba.  The  box  is  fixed  firmly  upon  the  axle, 
and,  as  well  as  the  wheels,  is  variously  painted,  and  richly 
gilt,  and  sometimes  covered  with  red  cloth.  At  the  sides 
there  are  closed  blinds,  which  sometimes  open  to  let  the 
curious  Frank  see  that  an  interesting  female  reposes  within 
upon  comfortable  pillows,  and  the  thin  veil  will  not  unfre- 
quently  wave  about,  in  order  that  she  may  do  execution 
with  her  dark  gazelle-like  e}res.  The  entrance  of  the  car- 
riage is  generally  from  behind,  where  a  small  gilt  ladder 
hangs  to  facilitate  the  ascent  and  descent  of  its  fair  burden. 

Two  oxen  or  buffaloes  draw  the  set-out,  and  are  very 
strongly  accoutred.  On  the  brow  of  each  hangs  a  square, 
yellow  shining  plate ;  between  the  horns  there  is  a  smaller 
one,  with  trio  vari  colored  horse's  tails,  and  frequently  I 
have  seen  both  the  head  and  neck  of  the  animals  decorated 
with  garlands  of  flowers.  The  coachman  walks,  guiding 
his  steeds  with  a  sharply  pointed  stick ;  and,  by  way  of 
guard,  several  domestics,  armed  to  the  teeth,  follow  the 
carriage. 

I  was  strolling  in  the  afternoon  through  one  of  the  grave- 
yards in  Pera,  admiring  the  beauty  and  variety  of  the 
different  tombs,  when,  in  the  distance,  I  saw  a  funeral 
procession.  As  it  is  probable  that  my  readers  might  like 
to  have  a  slight  idea  of  the  manner  of  burial  adopted  by  the 
Turks,  I  will  endeavor  to  describe  what  I  witnessed  : — 

Four  men  carried  the  corpse,  which  was  covered  with  a 
variously  colored  cloth  upon  a  bier.  Numbers  of  Turks, 
each  with  a  branch  of  cypress  in  one  hand,  while  in  the 
other  rested  the  inseparable  pipe,  followed.  The  Imam 
preceded,  occasionally  reciting  sentences  from  the  Koran. 
When  they  arrived  at  the  grave,  the  covering  was  removed, 
and  the  body  deposited  quite  naked.  The  Imam  prayed ; 
the  assembly  shouted ;  and  the  grave  was  rilled  with  earth. 
The  mourners  stuck  their  branches  of  cypress  around,  and 
a  belief  prevails  if  but  one  of  these  keep  green,  the  deceased 
has  gone  into  the  cheerful  paradise  promised  by  his  prophet 
Mahomet  to  the  faithful. 

There  is  a  sect  here  called  the  "  Dervises,"  and  the 
extraordinary  style  of  their  worship  amused  me  highly. 
They  practise  ever}7  Tuesday  and  Friday  at  noon,  from  one 


Drifting  About.  85 

to  two  o'clock,  in  a  small  chapel  near  the  Eussian  palace, 
and  any  Frank  is  allowed  a  free  admittance. 

There  is  a  round  box  in  the  middle  of  the  room ;  they 
have  also  another  circle  surrounded  by  a  balustrade.  On 
the  outside  of  this  the  populace  repeat  their  prayer.  In 
the  inner  circle  the  Dervises  collect,  clothed  in  a  long  dark 
woollen  raiment.  They  wear  also  on  their  heads  a  high 
woollen  cap,  slightly  resembling  a  sugar  loaf.  Their 
countenances  are  uniformly  pale,  but  of  a  beautiful  expres- 
sion. A  short  sermon  is  preached  by  their  priest,  after 
which  a  melodious  song  from  one  of  the  Dervises  is  given, 
sometimes  accompanied  by  flutes.  They  then  move  in 
couples  round  the  circle,  their  heads  bent  to  the  ground, 
under  the  guidance  of  two  leaders,  whose  heads  are  bound 
round  with  a  white  band,  as  a  mark  of  dignity.  They  turn 
three  or  four  times  round,  whilst  the  two  leaders  squat 
down  in  Turkish  fashion,  in  that  part  of  the  chapel  nearest 
to  Mecca.  Then  begins  their  singular  dance  ;  casting  away 
their  robes  they  stand  up  in  broad  dark  green  garments, 
reaching  to  their  knees.  One  of  them  immediately  stepped 
forth  with  closed  eyes,  and  spreading  his  arms  out,  turned 
upon  his  right  knee  with  great  rapidity  ;  a  second  then  per- 
formed the  same  evolution;  then  others,  until  the  whole 
company  were  twirling  around  like  a  set  of  mad  people. 
During  this  motion,  the  air  spreading  out  their  gowns,  gave 
them  the  most  ludicrous  appearance  imaginable.  This 
lasted  about  ten  minutes,  when  suddenly  they  stood  still 
and  firm,  and  cast  themselves  to  the  earth,  their  faces  all 
being  turned  towards  Mecca.  One  leader,  during  the 
ceremony,  went  round  to  see  if  the  gentlemen  all  twisted 
upon  the  right  heel  I  At  last,  they  all  kiss  the  hand  of  their 
leaders,  and  march  quietly  away. 

It  being  the  time  of  the  Eamazan,  I  could  not  obtain  ad- 
mission to  any  of  the  mosques,  but  walked  round  the  ex- 
terior of  almost  all  of  them.  St.  Sophia  (the  oldest  mosque 
in  Turkey)  does  not  produce  a  very  agreeable  impression  ; 
a  low  wall  surrounds  the  colossal  temple,  and  incloses  also 
an  ante-court,  decorated  with  flowers,  fountains,  and  cypress- 
es. The  chief  dome  rises  from  a  heap  of  pilasters,  cupolas, 
and  other  ornaments.  The  dingy-looking  appearance  of 
the  walls  suits  the  character  of  this  venerable  building. 


86  Drifting  About. 


XVIII. 


STREET  SCENES. 

Taking  a  walk  through  the  Bazaars,  I  saw  a  crowd  col- 
lected, and  found  that  a  poor  fellow  was  about  to  expiate 
his  life  that  day  by  the  summary  method  of  decapitation ; 
and  never  having  seen  the  "  modus  operandi"  of  the  Turks 
in  this  particular,  I  accompanied  the  crowd  ;  and  a.s  it  may 
be  interesting  to  some  of  my  readers,  I  give  them  the  benefit 
of  my  observations.  When  a  man  has  been  killed,  his 
friends  lodge  a  complaint  against  the  murderer,  who  is, 
without  loss  of  time,  dragged  to  the  Mehkemmay,  or  Court 
of  Justice  of  the  district  or  parish  where  the  crime  was 
perpetrated,  and  a  report  is  immediately  drawn  up,  stating 
the  particulars  of  the  complaint,  on  which  document  he  is 
instantly  sent  to  prison.  His  trial  subsequently  takes 
place  before  the  Grand  Vizier,  and  if  it  be  proved  that  he 
designedly,  and  without  sufficient  provocation,  committed 
the  murder,  he  is  forwarded,  with  the  whole  details  of  his 
case,  to  the  Sheikh  ul  Islam,  who  gives  a  decree  declaring 
that  an  individual  convicted  of  such  a  crime  is,  by  the 
sacred  law,  condemned  to  suffer  death  by  decapitation. 
Should  there  be  any  extenuating  circumstances,  for  which 
the  friends  of  the  culprit  imagine  that  due  allowance  has 
not  been  made,  they  draw  up  a  petition  to  the  Sultan,  de- 
manding a  new  trial.  The  matter  is  then  submitted  to  a 
supreme  Council  of  Justice,  and  if  he  be  agajn  condemned, 
the  heir  or  next  akin  of  the  deceased  is  questioned  as  to 
whether  he  demands  Kussass  or  Deeyet. 

Kussass  is  the  law  of  retaliation — blood  for  blood.  Dee- 
yet is  the  price  of  blood,  or  pecuniary  compensation  in  lieu 
of  it.  This  is  generally  one  thousand  drachms  of  silver, 
or  near  1500  dollars,  which,  being  a  large  sum,  the  author- 
ities may,  in  the  event  of  its  being  accepted  in  lieu  of  the 
life  of  the  culprit,  fix  suitable  periods  for  the  payment, 
the  culprit  remaining  in  prison  until  the  whole  amount  is 
paid.     It  is  seldom  taken  unless  in  cases  where  the  deceased 


Drifting  About.  87 

has  left  a  young  family,  for  whose  support  the  money  is 
required. 

If  the  heir  be  an  adult,  he  usually  spurns  the  idea  of  re- 
ceiving gold  as  the  price  of  the  blood  of  his  father  or  bro- 
ther, and  consequently  insists  upon  the  forfeiture  of  his 
life. 

All  the  needful  preliminaries  having  been  settled,  and 
the  murderer  condemned,  the  Grand  Vizier  (or  the  Sultan, 
should  he  have  been  petitioned  on  the  subject)  signs  an 
order  for  the  execution  of  the  criminal.  This  order  is  sent 
to  the  Governor  of  the  district,  who  decrees  it  over  to  the 
chief  executioner,  to  whom  he  gives  his  verbal  instructions 
as  to  the  time  and  place  of  execution.  The  executioner 
has  a  copy  of  the  sentence  drawn  out  in  large  legible  cha- 
racters. The  time  fixed  being  arrived,  he  takes  with  him 
the  order  for  the  execution,  on  which  the  jailor  delivers  his 
prisoner.  The  executioner  is  accompanied  by  several 
assistants,  who  knock  off  the  chains  of  the  culprit,  tie  his 
arms  behind  him,  and  then  he  is  immediately  marched  for- 
ward, without  being  informed  for  what  purpose. 

The  day  was  hot  in  the  extreme,  and  I  had  already 
walked  some  distance,  following  the  immense  crowd  col- 
lected. 

The  unhappy  man,  thus  secured  and  surrounded,  and 
hurried  along  to  the  place  of  execution,  near,  I  was  told, 
where  the  crime  had  been  committed,  and  in  a  thorough- 
fare through  which  thousands  were  constantly  passing,  he 
looked  the  very  picture  of  wretchedness  and  despair.  I 
shall  never  forget  the  look  he  gave,  when  suddenly  he  was 
told  to  kneel  down  !  and  if  previously  he  had  any  doubts 
as  to  his  fate,  they  were  now  quickly  removed.  Resistance 
was  in  vain :  all  hope  had  fled,  and  the  wretched  man  did 
as  he  was  ordered.  His  eyes  were  then  bound,  and  the 
executioner  stood  for  some  moments,  having  already  un- 
sheathed his  sword,  which  was  straight,  long,  very  broad, 
and  exceedingly  sharp.  He  then  assumed  an  attitude, 
clenched  his  teeth,  and  having  made  two  or  three  flourishes 
with  his  horrid  weapon,  raised  his  arm  so  as  to  bring  his 
hand  to  his  own  left  ear,  and  with  the  edge,  close  to  the 
hilt,  struck  a  tremendous  blow  on  the  left  side  of  the  neck 
of  his  victim,  just  above  the  shoulders.     The  man  made 


88  Drifting  About. 

horrid  butchery  of  his  work,  and  the  poor  fellow's  head 
was  hanging  by  a  portion  of  the  muscle  when  the  execu- 
tioner seized  his  hair,  and  completed  the  cruel  task  as  well 
as  he  could.  The  head  of  the  culprit  rolled  in  the  dust, 
and  no  sound  was  heard  save  the  gurgling  of  the  blood  ! 

The  body  was  then  laid  on  its  back,  the  head  being 
placed  under  the  right  arm ;  the  copy  of  the  sentence  was 
pinned  on  the  body,  which  was  then  left  "asa  warning  to 
others." 

A  thief  or  a  burglar  is  hanged.  His  trial  and  condemna- 
tion take  place  in  due  form,  and  the  executioners  lead  him 
forth  in  the  same  way.  My  friend  Churchill  described  to 
me  the  singular  method  the  Turks  have  of  hanging.  On 
reaching  the  spot  chosen  for  his  death,  a  rope  with  a  sliding 
knot  is  thrown  over  his  neck,  and  drawn  pretty  closely, 
the  other  end  is  passed  over  a  hook,  beam,  or  very  large 
nail.  The  signal  being  given,  two  or  three  of  the  execu- 
tioner's assistants  haul  upon  it,  the  executioner  himself 
assisting  by  lifting  the  culprit  off  the  ground.  The  proper 
height  having  been  attained  (and  very  little  suffices),  the 
executioner  with  a  thick  stick  strikes  the  rope  over  the 
head  to  tighten  it,  and  adjusts  the  knot  in  a  suitable  posi- 
tion. He  then  pins,  as  before,  the  sentence  on  the  breast, 
and  his  task  is  complete.  He  departs,  and  a  guard  is  left 
to  prevent  any  one  from  interfering  with  the  body. 

The  most  shocking  punishment  is  reserved  for  Haidoots, 
or  highway  robbers — viz.  impalement;  which  operation 
always  takes  place  on  a  cross-road,  and  is  performed,  as 
nearly  as  I  can  recollect,  as  follows  : — 

The  packsaddle  of  a  horse  is  placed  on  the  ground,  and 
rendered  firm  by  being  put  against  a  tree,  stone,  or  some 
other  support.  This  species  of  saddle  has,  before  and  be- 
hind, cross  bars,  to  which  are  attached  the  loads.  The 
felon  is  put  with  his  face  downwards,  and  his  neck  secured 
on  the  fore  cross  bars.  Already  stripped  of  everything  but 
his  shirt,  whilst  he  lies  in  this  position  the  executioner 
makes  a  cut  with  his  knife,  and  applies  a  strong  styptic  to 
prevent  the  flowing  of  blood.  The  stake,  which  may  be 
eight  or  nine  feet  long,  and  is  sharply  pointed  at  the  end, 
is  then  introduced,  and  beaten  out  with  a  heavy  mallet, 
until  it  appears  through  the  upper  part  of  the  body. 


Drifting  About.  89 

My  informant  told  me  that  only  a  few  years  ago  thirteen 
or  fourteen  of  these  robbers  were  impaled  at  Adrianople. 
He  was  an  eye-witness  of  the  scene,  and  in  one  case  he  told 
me  the  stick  came  out  at  the  back  of  the  neck,  in  another 
through  the  chest,  in  two  or  three  through  a  shoulder,  in 
one  through  the  throat  I  and  in  one  instance  through  the 
top  of  the  head ! !  He  told  me,  however,  that  every  one 
of  the  victims  had  first  been  strangled,  so  that  they  did  not 
suffer  afterwards,  though  the  punishment  appears  so  dread- 
ful. They  were  formerly  set  upon  the  stake  alive,  and  I 
heard  of  a  case  in  which  a  man  was  at  night  removed  from 
his  stake  by  his  friends,  and  none  of  the  vital  parts  having 
been  touched,  he  lived,  many  years  afterwards,  but  never 
subsequently  stood  straight. 

But  executions  in  Turkey  are  now,  I  am  told,  quite  rare, 
and  it  would  seem  so,  for  the  one  I  witnessed  created  a 
greater  sensation  than  it  would  have  done  in  America. 

I  went  with  my  friend  on  board  several  very  beautiful 
steamboats  belonging  to  the  Turkish  Government ;  one  in 
particular,  the  "  Monarch,"  Capt.  Howes,  is  very  large  and 
elegant.  She  was  built  in  Glasgow  expressly  for  the  Go- 
vernment, and  is  employed  in  carrying  troops  to  the 
different  islands.  There  are  also  many  large  Austrian  and 
French  steamers  constantly  running  to  and  fro. 

After  strolling  through  the  grave-yards  at  Scutari,  I  re- 
turned to  the  city  about  eight,  and  slept  on  board  the 
"  Eni  Dunia"  steamer. 

The  next  day  I  proceeded  with  my  friend  to  the  "  Slave 
Market."  It  consists  of  a  quadrangular  edifice,  including 
a  square  area  of  nearly  two  hundred  feet,  and  is  surrounded 
with  rooms.  Long  platforms  raised  from  the  ground  are  in 
front,  and  you  ascend  steps,  making  a  kind  of  colonnade. 
We  entered  by  a  gate,  built  in  a  high  dark  wall,  leading  to 
the  market  of  female  slaves.  Not  far  from  the  entrance 
stood  some  young  negroes,  about  fifteen  years  of  age,  but 
scantily  furnished  with  clothing.  Some  old  Turks  seemed 
occupied  in  closely  inspecting  the  luxurious  figures  of  these 
poor  creatures,  whom  the  slave-dealer  seemed  to  be  re- 
commending very  highly.  The  place  was  excessively 
dirty.  The  price  usually  given  for  a  young  Circassian 
is  about  7000  piastres,  or  five  hundred  dollars,  and  for 


90  Drifting  About. 

a  black  intended  to  do  servant's  work,  about  eighty 
dollars. 

We  then  walked  through  some  of  the  bazaars,  very  much 
larger  and  on  a  more  magnificent  scale  than  those  of 
Smyrna.  They  consist  of  many  very  intricate  passages, 
and  I  should  have  found  it  difficult,  had  I  been  alone,  to 
have  made  my  way  out  again.  The  booths  of  which  the 
alleys  are  formed,  are  divided  with  great  order,  so  that  in 
each  series,  wares  of  only  one  kind  are  to  be  met  with. 

I  was  interested  greatly  in  the  beautiful  magazines  of 
arms  and  pipes — but  the  shawl  bazaar  surpasses  in  richness 
and  elegance  anything  I  had  ever  witnessed.  Cloths  of 
the  most  delicate  texture  dazzle  the  eye  with  the  brilliancy 
of  their  colors.  The  Turks  are  very  simple  in  their  mode 
of  bargaining,  they  ask  but  one  price,  and  seem  to  say  in 
the  language  of  Shakspeare  "  If  you  will  take  it — so ;  if 
not,  adieu,  and  for  my  love  I  pray  you  wrong  me  not." 
The  Jews  and  Armenians  compose  a  great  portion  of  the 
population  of  Constantinople.  It  is  easy  to  perceive  the 
contempt  in  which  the  Jews  are  held  by  the  Turks,  exposed 
continually,  as  they  are,  to  all  sorts  of  ill  treatment  and 
harsh  abuse,  in  which  abuse  they  are  joined  sometimes  by 
the  Christians  residing  there. 

I  took  passage  the  next  day  in  the  French  man-of-war 
steamer  Pericles  for  Smyrna.  We  arrived  in  the  Darda- 
nelles about  noon,  where  we  were  detained  some  hours ;  had 
a  view  of  Sestos  and  Abydos.  At  the  latter  place  we  stop- 
ped to  take  some  Turks  and  their  women  on  board.  The 
women  were  all  closely  veiled ;  no  part  of  the  face  being 
visible,  except  the  tip  of  the  nose.  We  soon  passed  the 
Hellespont,  only  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width. 

This  bay  is,  I  believe,  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Darda- 
nelles, and  is  commanded  on  each  side  with  extensive  forts, 
batteries,  &c,  for  a  very  long  distance,  giving  it  a  formida- 
ble and  warlike  appearance.  The  scenery  of  the  shores, 
and  the  many  incidents  of  fable  and  history  associated  with 
these  places,  give  them  peculiar  enchantment. 

We  arrived  at  Smyrna  the  next  day. 

After  a  very  delightful  run,  I  found  myself  once  again  in 
the  "  City  of  Figs,"  and  I  thought  if  those  at  home,  who 
were  so  fond  of  devouring  this  much-prized  fruit,  could  have 


Drifting  About.  91 

been  with  me  to  witness  the  process  of  packing,  they  would 
not  eat  them  with  quite  so  much  relish. 

Up  a  long  and  dirty  alley- way  on  each  side  were  seated 
on  the  bare  ground  numbers  of  the  dirtiest  and  lowest  order 
of  Greeks,  men,  women,  boys,  and  girls,  some  picking,  others 
stamping  and  pressing,  the  freshly-picked  fruit  into  the 
"  drums."  With  their  bare  and  dirty  feet  and  dirtier  hands, 
they  squeeze  the  fruit  into  the  boxes,  moistening  and  assist- 
ing its  packing  with  an  occasional  stream  of  saliva  from 
their  filthy  mouths.  The  figs  are  piled  up  like  so  many 
tons  of  coals,  and  are  shovelled  about  and  handled  with  lit- 
tle or  no  regard  to  care  or  cleanliness.  The  packers  remain 
from  morning  till  night  in  this  position,  and  appear  never 
to  tire  in  their  work.  But  by  the  time  the  voyage  is  over, 
and  the  figs  are  displayed  on  the  tables  of  the  rich  as  a 
bonne  bouche  or  dessert  after  dinner,  covered  with  the  nice 
crisp  coating  of  sugar,  the  method  of  packing  is  not  inquired 
into  or  cared  for,  and  they  slip  down  as  smoothly  as  if  just 
plucked  from  the  tree. 

The  next  day  I  took  with  me  a  guide,  an  Algerine  Jew 
who  I  found  spoke  a  little  English,  and,  mounting  our  don- 
keys, proceeded  to  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle  I  had  passed 
on  the  previous  day.  We  ascended  the  hill  without  much 
difficulty.  Upon  arriving  at  the  entrance  of  the  building,  I 
perceived,  seated  on  the  ground,  some  half  dozen  savage- 
looking  fellows,  smoking  long,  dirty-looking  pipes,  while 
some  were  cooking  an  extraordinary  kind  of  stuff  in  a  queer- 
looking  iron  bowl.  I  went  to  my  guide,  wishing  to  know 
if  it  would  be  safe  to  pass,  understanding  from  several  in 
Smyrna  that  robbers  very  frequently  secreted  themselves 
in  and  about  the  place,  knowing  that  it  is  sought  after  by 
all  travellers. 

My  guide  told  me  there  was  no  occasion  for  any  alarm, 
and  asking  me  for  a  few  cigars,  offered  a  bundle  to  the  fore- 
most of  the  men,  who  seemed  quite  pleased  with  the  pre- 
sent. I  could  not  help  looking  at  the  handsome  fellows 
who  had  excited  my  suspicion.  They  were  all  very  much 
sunburnt,  had  large  black  eyes,  and  teeth  of  perfect  white- 
ness ;  a  long  and  queerly-cut  moustache  covered  their  lips, 
which,  when  their  faces  were  not  in  repose,  made  them  look 
doubly  savage. 


92  Drifting  About. 

Their  singular  dress  pleased  me  much — a  jacket  of  red- 
green  velvet,  fitting  close  to  the  waist,  with  full  sleeves, 
open  all  the  way  down ;  over  this  they  wore  a  red  fly  jacket, 
thrown  loosely  over  the  shoulder ;  a  thick  shawl  belt  circled 
the  waist,  from  which  the  hilts  of  a  pair  of  old-fashioned 
pistols  peeped  out,  with  the  silver-hilted  handle  of  a  large- 
sized  dagger;  full  trowsers  of  white  linen  came  to  their 
knees,  their  legs  being  quite  bare ;  jauntily  put  on  their 
heads,  was  a  cap  of  red  cloth,  having  a  long  silk  tassel 
hanging  therefrom.  A  herd  of  rams  was  quietly  grazing 
at  the  old  castle  entrance,  guarded  by  a  ferocious-looking 
dog,  who,  upon  seeing  me,  began  to  bark  and  move  un- 
easily, but  upon  getting  a  pretty  smart  kick  from  one  of 
the  men,  he  quietly  lay  down,  leaving  us  to  pass  by  with- 
out interruption. 

We  entered  through  an  old  archway.  Immediately  to 
the  right  I  noticed  a  small  stone  building,  with  a  doorway 
and  two  steps  at  its  entrance.  It  was  an  unoccupied  inclo- 
sure,  and  contained  a  small  ruin  of  an  altar,  with  some  steps 
leading  to  it,  resting  against  the  wall.  This  place  is  believed 
to  have  been  the  site  of  one  of  the  "  seven  churches"  of 
Asia.  The  walls  were  completely  covered,  from  top  to 
bottom,  with  the  initials  or  names  of  different  distinguished 
travellers,  who  had  wandered  amid  these  ruins  from  all  parts 
of  the  globe.  Among  them  I  noticed  the  euphonious  one 
of  "  John  Smith,  Penobscot,  Maine !"  and  several  of  his 
relations.  Nothing  but  the  bare  walls  of  the  castle  are 
remaining.  Under  the  ground  are  innumerable  vaults, 
which  in  olden  time  supplied  water  to  the  inmates.  There 
is,  also,  a  subterranean  passage  cut  through  to  the  city,  but 
it  is  now  stopped  up,  some  people  having  lost  their  lives  in 
attempting  to  reach  the  city  by.it,  in  consequence  of  the 
impurity  of  the  atmosphere.  I  carried  away  with  me  some 
pieces  of  the  wall  and  pavement  of  the  chapel,  and  after 
remaining  the  better  part  of  the  day  in  and  about  the  ruins, 
I  mounted  my  donkey  and  returned  to  the  city. 

Having  received  a  polite  invitation  from  Mr.  L.  to  accom- 
pany himself  and  wife  to  the  opera — it  being  the  first  night 
of  the  season — I  soon  found  myself  quietly  seated  in  a  pri- 
vate box,  listening  to  a  new  opera  by  Donizetti. 

The  bills  were  headed  thus — 


Drifting  About.  93 

Aviso  Teatrale. 

Programma. 

De  llo  spettacolo  con  cue  verra  aperta  la  stagione. 

Teatrale  di  quest  anno  la  sero  del  30  Ottobre  1843. 

Koberto  Devreux. 

Opera  in  musica  del  maestro 

(xaetano  Donizetti. 

le  parole  sonno  del. 

The  overture  was  very  beautiful,  and  was  played  by  the 
band  splendidly.  The  singers  did  full  justice  to  this  lovely 
opera.  The  primo  tenore  had  a  song  in  the  second  act — 
which  is  given  in  prison — of  such  touching  sweetness,  and 
with  such  exquisite  feeling,  that  the  whole  audience  was  in 
tears.  It  was  a  treat  indeed.  The  theatre  is  rather  small, 
having  a  parquette,  and  a  first  and  second  tier  of  private 
boxes.  The  price  of  admission  is  ten  piastres,  and  thirty 
for  a  seat  in  a  private  box.  They  perform  three  times  a 
week. 

On  the  following  day,  having  heard  a  great  deal  of  the 
Turkish  baths,  I  resolved  to  try  their  virtues  for  myself. 

I  accordingly  went  to  the  best  one  I  could  find  in  the 
city.  I  first  entered  a  room,  by  the  walls  of  which  the  most 
splendid  divans  are  placed  for  repose ;  this  arrangement 
seemed  quite  suited  to  the  sensual  character  of  the  orientals. 
Numerous  bathers,  entirely  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a 
thin  apron  round  their  waist,  and  heavy  wooden  sandals  on 
their  feet,  with  the  domestic  of  the  bath,  equipped  in  the 
same  manner,  were  standing  round.  We  then  went  into  a 
spacious  saloon  of  moderate  temperature :  after  having  stayed 
a  little  time,  we  were  led  into  another  room,  still  hotter : 
here  I  felt  very  faint — as  every  one  does  the  first  time  one 
of  these  baths  is  taken.  I  got  over  it  soon,  and  presently 
found  myself  in  the  last  and  hottest  yet.  Perspiration  ran 
down  me  in  streams — after  I  had  been  in  five  minutes,  the 
sensation  was  delicious. 

The  ceiling  of  this  room  was  an  arched  cupola,  furnished 
with  a  multitude  of  windows ;  the  walls  and  floor  were  of 
the  finest  marble ;  a  hot,  damp  atmosphere  fills  the  entire 
saloon.  This  is  produced  by  water  being  sprinkled  upon  a 
highly  heated  floor.     One  thinks  it  impossible  to  bear  this 


94  Drifting  About. 

excessive  heat  at  first ;  but  the  Turks  speedily  accustom 
themselves  thereto.  In  the  centre  is  a  square  marble  ele- 
vation, less  hot  than  the  floor  itself.  Upon  this  the  bather 
sits,  and  the  attendant,  whose  hands  are  covered  with  rough 
woollen  gloves,  rubs  and  kneads  the  whole  body  down  to 
the  toes  with  great  agility.  A  tap  on  the  neck  is  the  signal 
that  this  part  of  the  ceremony  is  over. 

I  was  then  conducted  to  a  niche  (several  of  which  sur- 
round the  saloon)  supplied  with  urns,  from  which  hot  or 
cold  water  can  be  procured  at  pleasure.  My  attendant 
covered  me  with  soaps  of  every  variety  of  scent,  until  I 
resembled  a  huge  pillar  of  blancmange.  After  calling 
out  lustily  to  the  fellow  to  pump  on  me,  or  I  should  lose 
my  eyes — the  soap  having  penetrated  somewhat — and- he 
not  having  the  most  distant  idea  about  what  I  was  talking, 
/  seized  the  cock,  when  in  my  flurry  I  turned  the  hot  water 
on  my  head  and  shoulders,  instead  of  the  cold.  Here  the 
Turk  gave  a  shriek,  reverberating  through  the  whole  build- 
ing, and  /  a  spring  that  left  all  past  and  future  vaulters 
entirely  in  the  shade.  The  poor  fellow  beckoned  to  me  to 
come  back ;  and  having  pumped  on  me  for  some  time, 
rubbed  me  down,  placed  a  turban  of  towels  round  my  head, 
and  a  piece  of  flannel  round  my  body,  and,  having  first 
put  on  my  wooden  shoes,  returned  to  the  first-mentioned 
room,  I  reclined  upon  one  of  the  beautiful  divans,  where 
coffee  and  a  pipe  were  soon  brought  to  me. 

The  exhaustion  that  now  succeeds — the  species  of  tran- 
quillity of  soul  and  body — exceeds  everything  in  its  sensual 
voluptuousness.  Thus  an  hour  or  more  is  passed,  until 
this  .exhaustion  is  succeeded  by  a  new  energy,  and  a  freshly 
excited  state. 

In  front  of  all  the  baths,  as  before  the  mosques,  an 
immense  quantity  of  slippers  and  boots  are  always  to  be 
found. 

All  the  Turks  leave  their  boots  or  shoes  behind,  that 
they  may  not  soil  the  carpets  or  variegated  Egyptian  mats, 
which  are  usually  spread  on  the  mosques  and  other  elegant 
apartments ;  they  enter  with  merely  their  leather  sandals, 
generally  attached  to  the  pantaloons. 

There  are  several  very  good  billiard  rooms  in  the  Frank 
quarter  of  the  town,  and  some  prettily  fitted  up  cafes  on  the 


Drifting  About. 


95 


"  Marina"      This  is  a  promenade  for  both  sexes  during 
the  summer  evenings,  and  is  generally  well  filled. 

The  vessel  in  which  I  intended  to  sail  for  Boston  being 
ready  for  sea,  I  prepared  to  take  my  leave  of  the  many  kind 
friends  I  had  met  with  during  my  short  sojourn  in  this 
delightful  part  of  the  world ;  and  accordingly  on  the  31st 
of  October  we  left  the  good  city  of  Smyrna,  in  the  barque 
"George  Henry,"  Captain  Michael  Watson,  bound  for 
Boston,  Mass.  On  the  4th  of  November  we  found  our- 
selves in  the  Ionian  Sea — saw  the  land  of  Greece  for  the 
last  time — and,  with  a  fair  wind,  we  were  soon  in  the 
Mediterranean. 


On  the  7th  of  the  month  I  had  a  splendid  view  of  Mount 
Etna,  and  distinctly  saw  the  snow  on  its  summit. 

Without  entering  into  the  minute  particulars  of  a  long 
and  very  dangerous  passage,  I  will  simply  state  that  on  the 
28th  of  December  we  sprung  a  leak,  and  several  thousand 
drums  of  figs  were  thrown  overboard  to  lighten  the  vessel. 
We,  however,  through  the  goodness  of  Providence,  and 
the  skilfulness  of  our  Captain — than  whom  a  better  sailor 
or  a  better  man  never  walked — reached  Boston  on  the 
4th  of  January. 


96  Drifting  About. 

The  danger  in  which  we  had  been  involved  immediately 
preceding  our  arrival  enhanced  doubly  the  joy  of  once 
again  treading  solid  ground.  Our  vessel  attracted  a  good 
deal  of  attention,  on  account  of  her  weather-beaten  appear- 
ance, and  curiosity  was  on  tiptoe  to  see  those  who  had 
braved  with  her  the  perils  of  the  sea.  Many  came  to  con- 
gratulate us  on  our  safe  arrival,  and  one,  knowing  the 
length  of  time  we  had  been  out  of  fresh  meat,  was  conside- 
rate enough  to  bring  with  him  a  large  quantity  for  all 
hands.  I  think  nothing  that  1  have  since  tasted,  has  had 
the  peculiarly  rich  and  indescribable  flavor  of  that  beef- 
steak. 

We  went  in  the  ship's  boat  on  shore — the  cold  was 
excessive — the  snow  thick  upon  the  ground — and  the  trees 
covered  with  icicles  !  How  different  this  from  the  sunny 
and  luxurious  clime  so  recently  left  behind!  The  remem- 
brance drew  from  me  a  heartfelt  sigh,  though  probably  my 
chattering  teeth  and  shivering  limbs  had  something  to  do 
with  it. 

A  cheerful  fire,  and  well-known  and  friendly  faces,  how- 
ever, soon  began  to  exert  its  genial  influence,  and  when  I 
entered  the  old  "  Tremont  House,"  and  was  so  cordially 
greeted  by  its  jolly  host,  I  felt  rejoiced  in  once  again  being 
safely  housed  in  the  land  of  my  adoption. 


XIX. 

AT  THE   FOOT-LIGHTS  IN  BOSTON. 

Strolling  along  Washington  street  on  a  cold  morning 
in  January,  I  was  accosted  by  Mr.  James  Gr.  Maeder,  the 
well  known  composer,  who,  welcoming  me  back,  remarked 
that  I  was  just  the  "  boy"  he  wanted  for  his  opera  that  he 
was  about  to  produce  in  Boston.  Now,  at  the  moment  I 
had  not  the  slightest  intention  of  again  appearing  in  public 
— but  the  state  of  my  finances  ( I  having  about  five  piastres 
in  my  pocket  when  I  landed)  was  such,  that  I  had  to  go  to 
work  at  something  immediately.    Accordingly  after  a  little 


Drifting  About.  97 

reflection,  I  accepted  my  friend's  offer,  and  tarried  in  the 
city  of  notions  some  two  weeks,  having  made  my  bow  to  a 
Boston  audience  in  the  opera  of  the  "  Peri,"  I  taking  the 
part  of  "Razlecroft  the  Wizard,"  and  I  believe  I  may  say 
with  considerable  success. 


XX. 


AT  HOME. 

Arriving  in  New  York  once  again  in  the  month  of 
March,  1844,  with  very  little  money,  and  without  any  fixed 
purpose  or  intention,  it  was  somewhat  refreshing  to  be 
greeted  very  cordially  one  evening  by  a  gentleman,  to  whom 
I  had  been  introduced  one  night  at  the  Olympic,  with  the 
request  that  I  would  dine  with  him,  and  accompany  him 
afterwards  to  the  Park  Theatre. 

Upon  his  inquiring  as  to  what  my  intentions,  pursuits, 
or  occupation,  were  for  the  future,  and  finding  my  answers 
extremely  vague  and  indefinite,  he  invited  me  to  call  at 
his  office'  at  the  City  Hall,  on  the  following  day — the 
County  Clerk's,  I  believe,  Mr.  James  Connor  then  officiating 
in  that  capacity. 

Here,  then,  in  a  little  dark  room — a  sort  of  "  tank,"  I  was 
once  again  ensconced,  assisting  my  friend  B.  H.  J.  in  record- 
ing, etc.,  generally  winding  up  our  day's  labor,  which 
ended  at  four,  by  adjourning  to  "  Windust's"  in  Park  Row, 
and  having  a  good  dinner. 

It  was  in  one  of  those  cozy  little  "  boxes"  that  I  first 
had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced  to  Mr.  James  T.  Brady, 
who,  through  all  my  ups  and  downs,  vicissitudes  and 
changes,  has  remained  my  steadfast,  firm,  and  cherished 
friend.  My  slender  income  was  slightly  augmented,  by  a 
situation  I  obtained  in  the  choir  of  St.  Thomas's  Church,  I 
receiving  $200  a  year  as  the  "basso"  thereof.  Austin 
Phillips  was  the  organist,  and  the  singers,  Mrs.  Edward 
Loder,  Miss  Mary  Taylor,  Mr.  Henry  C.  Watson,  and 
myself. 

5 


98  Drifting  About. 

TJie  summer  of  this  year  was  passed  delightfully,  I  hav- 
ing been  appointed  "  Coxswain"  of  the  boat  "  Halcyon," 
owned  conjointly  by  Mr.  Jarvis,  Mr.  Brady,  Mr.  Thomp- 
son, and  Mr.  Sam.  Jarvis. 

We  would  leave  the  foot  of  Christopher  street  at  about 
six  o'clock,  and  pull  up  to  the  "  Abbey,"  then  kept  by  Van 
Ransellier,  who  would  provide  for  the  hungry  oarsmen  a 
superb  supper — returning  home  by  the  "  light  of  the  moon," 
and  enjoying  to  our  hearts'  content  the  cool  night  breezes, 
and  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  glorious  Hudson. 

My  friend  Mr.  J had  hinted  to  me  the  probability 

of  my  obtaining  a  situation  in  Mr.  Brady's  office,  should  he 
be  appointed  "  Counsel  to  the  Corporation," — accordingly 
the  reader  can  judge  of  my  delight,  upon  seeing  one  morn- 
ing in  the  journals  of  the  day,  that  he  was  the  gentleman 
selected  for  that  office. 


XXL 

OH  !    LAW  ! 

It  was  then  in  the  month  of  June,  1845,  that  I  found 
myself,  the  appointed  clerk  to  the  "  Counsel  of  the  Corpora- 
tion," seated  at  a  snug  little  table,  at  No.  10  Wall  street — 
the  name  of  the  firm  was  then  "  Brady  and  Maurice." 

The  four  years  that  I  remained  in  this  office  were  cer- 
tainly passed  by  me  most  delightfully — and  in  looking 
back  through  the  vista  of  years,  after  my  world-wide 
wanderings,  and  the  variety  of  my  pursuits, — I  cling  with 
the  greatest  tenacity  to  some  interesting  scenes  and  inci- 
dents that  occurred  during  the  four  years  of  my  legal 
apprenticeship. 

XXII. 

THINGS  AT   "BRADY  AND   MAURICE'S." 

My  station  was  near  the  door,  and  it  was  reserved  for  mo 
to  answer  the  inquiries  of  clients,  and  to  inform  them,  or 
not,  as  to  the  whereabouts  of  the  head  of  the  firm. 


Drifting  About.  99 

Sometimes  they  presented  a  heterogeneous  and  motley 
group,  and  the  odor  on  a  warm  summer's  day  was  not  of 
the  most  delicate  flavor,  but  they  certainly  had  the  faculty 
of  enduring  longer  a  waits"  than  I  had  ever  known  in  my 
theatrical  career. 

Now  the  "  Governor,"  as  I  used  to  call  him,  was  not  quite 
so  hard  to  find  as  now,  but  I  must  confess  that  there  was 
a  degree  of  irregularity  about  his  "arrival"  and  "departure," 
that  sometimes  operated  very  sensibly  upon  the  nerves  of 
the  anxious  "  clients,"  and  rendered  my  duties  very  per- 
plexing. 

Occasionally  some  very  (to  me)  amusing  incidents  took 
place. 

One  old  man  named  Smith,  who  first  attracted  my  atten- 
tion by  the  extraordinary  cut  of  his  clothes,  and  hat,  pre- 
sented himself,  in  somewhat  the  following  style,  once  every 
other  day,  for  about  four  years ;  and  to  this  day  I  never 
knew — and  Fm  sure  he  didn't — what  he  came  for — or  why 
he  so  patiently  and  silently  waited  for  so  many  hours,  in 
the  vain  expectation  of  being  gladdened  bv  a  sight  of 
Mr.  B. 

The  door  would  slowly  open,  and  by  the  time  I  had 
looked  up,  I  saw  nothing  but  the  back  of  a  man,  that 
seemed  all  hat  and  coat,  the  tails  almost  touching  his  heels. 
His  hat,  which  bore  the  marks  of  age  very  strongly,  and 
looked  as  if  it  had  been  as  often  sat  upon  as  worn  on  the 
head,  was  drawn  far  over  the  face,  resting  upon  the  end  of 
a  large  and  very  red  nose,  that  seemed  constantly  requir- 
ing the  application  of  a  very  dirty  spotted  cotton  pocket- 
handkerchief.  The  coat  was  closely  buttoned  to  the  throat, 
but  hung  very  loosely  on  his  figure,  giving  the  impression 
that  he  had  either  fallen  away  very  materially,  or  that  it 
had  belonged  to  his  great-grandfather.  The  cuffs,  which 
bore  strong  evidence  of  their  being  used  when  the  handker- 
chief was  in  the  laundry,  entirely  covered  his  hands ;  and 
his  trowsers,  which  fitted  his  legs  very  tightly,  and  were  of 
the  oldest  "  cut,"  upon  his  taking  a  seat  retreated  far  up  his 
legs,  revealing  a  pair  of  very  dirty  socks,  and  a  half-boot, 
that  would  have  been  a  good  companion  for  "  Boss  Rich- 
ard's" in  Chatham  street. 

Well,  he  would  give  a  slight  puff  or  two,  if  it  was  sum- 


loo  Drifting  About. 

mer,  or  a  shiver  if  it  was  winter,  put  his  hat  under  the 
chair,  and  sit,  and  sit,  and  sit,  saying  nothing,  looking  at 
nobody,  and  apparently  lost  in  thought,  or  endeavoring  to 
get  at  the  cause  of  his  difficulty. 

His  case  was  one,  that  at  the  time  I  took  a  great  interest 
in,  partly  from  the  fact  of  my  utter  ignorance  of  its  merits, 
and  partly  from  the  fun  we  all  had,  whenever  old  Smith 
came  to  see  the  "  Counsellor." 

I  was  greatly  interested  in  the  case   of  a  poor  little 

Irishwoman,  long  before  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  B of 

the  nature  of  her  repeated  visits ;  not  only  the  neatness  of 
her  costume,  the  punctuality  of  her  appearance,  generally, 
upon  the  Saturday  of  each  and  every  week  of  the  year, 
but  the  persistency  with  which  she  seemed  to  cling  to  the 
desire  of  her  heart,  aroused  my  sympathies. 

The  snow  would  be  thick  on  the  ground,  and  the  cold 
intense,  still  the  door  would  quietly  open,  and  with  her 
pretty  face  glowing  with  cold,  and  the  excitement  of  her  long 
walk,  and  with  a  little  courtesy,  she  would  ask,  "Is  Mr. 

B in,  sir,  if  you  please  ?"  and  often  in  a  hot  day  in 

August,  would  this  faithful  little  woman  trudge  from  her 
home  in  Williamsburgh,  upon  the  same  errand  of  love  and 
affection. 

It  appears  that  her  husband  was  serving  out  a  term  of 
years  in  the  State  Prison,  but  his  case  presenting  some 
mitigating  circumstances,  the  clemency  of  Governor  Kent 
was  invoked  in  his  behalf,   by  her  faithful  adviser  Mr. 

B ,  the  result  being,  that  her  husband  was  released,  and 

the  little  woman's  heart  made  glad. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  beautiful  expression  of  the  face 
of  that  poor  but  handsome  Irishwoman,  as  she  entered 
the  office  to  thank,  in  her   artless   and   sincere   manner, 

Mr.  B for  his   efforts  in   her  behalf;  and  I  envied 

him  the  pleasurable  emotions  of  gratification,  that  must 
have  been  his,  upon  seeing  her  wildering  delight,  and 
hearing  her  heartfelt  and  honest  ejaculations  of  thank- 
fulness to  the  Almighty,  and  of  blessings,  that  she  so 
earnestly  prayed  might  be  showered  on  the  head  of  her 
benefactor. 

It  was  Christmas  morning  when  she  received  the  joyful 
news,  and  there  were  at  least  two  hearts  in  old  St.  Patrick's 


Drifting  About.  101 


"o 


Cathedral  that  not  only  beat  in  unison,  but  whose  humble 
offerings  of  gratitude  and  thankfulness,  as  they  knelt  toge- 
ther in  the  temple,  must  have  been  acceptable  to_  Heaven. 
So  many  delightful  associations,  remembrances,  and  remi- 
niscences are  connected  with  my  four  years'  sojourn  here, 
that  I  find  it  difficult,  vivid  as  the  scenes  sometimes  appear 
to  me,  to  bring  some  of  the  most  prominent  and  interesting 
to  the  notice  of  the  reader. 

There  were  four  in  the  office,  exclusive  of  the  principals, 
viz.  P.  B.  S.,  J.  B.  S.,  J.  D.  B.,  and  myself,  and  occasion- 
ally a  boy.  Our  relative  positions  and  stations  were  well 
understood,  and  I  think  I  can  say,  we  lived  in  perfect  har- 
mony, good-will,  and  peace  with  each  other. 

The  heavy  work  of  the  office  fell  principally  upon 
P.  B.  S.,  and  when  the  reader  is  informed  that  upon  Mr. 
Brady  taking  possession  of  the  Counsel's  chair  there  were 
over  six  hundred  suits  to  be  attended,  he  will  see  that  the 
office  was  no  sinecure. 

Though  I  was  still  looked  upon  as  a  student  of  law,  my 
investigations  into  the  mysteries  and  intricacies  of  that 
delightful  profession  were  not  a  wit  more  extensive  than 
when  my  presence  illumined  the  office  of  Mr.  Nevins  in 
Buffalo ;  indeed,  if  any  thing  I  was  more  ignorant  than  ever. 
But  with  the  pen  (which  Mr.  Kichelieu  says  is  mightier 
than  the  sword),  I  was  entirely  at  home,  and  often  have 
"got  through"  one  hundred  and  fifty  folios  in  a  day. 
Indeed  I  think  I  may  say  that  the  caligrapbic  efforts 
of  this  office  excited  the  admiration  of  Mr.  Mayor  Mickle 
and  the  entire  corporation.  We  had  a  carte  blanche  at  Eich 
and  LoutrelPs,  the  stationers,  where  Albert  H.  Nicolay 
(now  a  successful  auctioneer),  with  his  blandest  smile,  would 
hand  me  the  choicest  articles  of  pens,  ink,  paper,  silk  tape, 
etc.,  etc.,  and  about  twice  a  year  the  bill,  which  was  paid  upon 
being  carefully  examined  and  audited,  as  all  claims  against 
the  City  usually  are. 

The  monotony  of  the  day,  in  the  usual  routine  of  the 
office  business,  was  sometimes  relieved  by  making  some 
rough  caricatures  of  ourselves  and  our  clients,  that  for  the 
time  created  a  good  deal  of  merriment ;  one  in  particular 
was  hugely  relished  by  all  who  understood  the  joke. 

It  appears  a  "  motion "  (I  think  they  call  it)  had  to  be 


102  Drifting  About. 

made  against  Mr.  Charles  O'Conor,  in  "  Chambers."  Now 
I  was  given  to  understand,  by  Mr.  Mauriee,  that  this  was  a 
very  simple  matter,  and  that  as  all  the  other  gentlemen  in 
the  office  were  engaged,  and  that  he  could  not  possibly 
leave,  it  fell  upon  me  to  "  open  the  case." 

The  dread  of  a  "  first  appearance  on  the  stage"  vanished 
into  nothingness,  in  comparison  with  this  fearful  ordeal 
— that,  too,  against  the  great  Mr.  O'C. ;  and  the  more 
Mr.  Maurice  endeavored  to  explain  the  case  to  me,  the 
more    agitated,   confused,   and    agonized   were    my   feel- 


"  You  see,"  said  he,  "  it  is  simply  this.  You  must  move 
for  judgment  on  proof  of  the  filing  (or  rasping,  or  something 
like  it)  of  the  lis  pendens,  (or  suspenders,  I  forget  which,)  and 
urge  the  ground  that  no  fraud  was  shown  on  the  execution 
of  the  mortgage — (I  wished  that  the  man  who  did  make  it  had 
been  executed  first) — and  that  the  onerous  probandi  lay  on 
the  defendant,  and  he  had  utterly  failed  to  effect  a  convic- 
tion on  the  mind  of  the  referee."  Something  was  said  about 
the  animal  quo,  or  quo  animo — perhaps  both  ;  but  if  it  was 
the  former,  I  saw  that  animal  in  the  shape  of  a  very  exten- 
sive elephant  before  I  had  finished ;  for  on  arriving  at  the 
"  Chambers,"  and  whilst  waiting  for  the  motion,  an  imper- 
tinent officer  pronounced  the  magical  words,  "Sit  down," 
and  motioned  or  rather  thrust  me  into  a  chair  near  a  hot 
stove,  I  thinking  that  by  the  time  the  side  nearest  the  stove 
should  be  well  cooked,  I  should  be  effectually  roasted  in 
front  by  O'Conor  and  the  Court.  A  profuse  perspiration 
burst  out  from  every  pore,  and  between  the  oven  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  dread  and  uncertainty  of  the  thing  I  was 
about  to  attempt  on  the  other,  I  was  thrown  into  a  condi- 
tion of  mental  and  physical  agony,  which  was  seriously 
augmented  by  the  Court  asking  Mr.  O'Conor  if  "  he  had  a 
motion  to  bring  on !" 

Mr.  O'Conor  replied,  that  he  expected  some  one  from  Mr. 
Brady's  office,  who  would  move  for  the  confirmation  of  a 
referee's  report,  which  he  then  attended  "  to  oppose."  This 
was  said  with  a  glance  at  me,  and  a  good  deal  of  emphasis 
on  the  words  some  one.  "  On  this  hint"  I  attempted  to  speak, 
and  in  making  an  effort  to  rise,  discovered,  by  the  vast 
weight  which  appeared  to  be  resting  on  my  knees,  that  my 


Drifting  About.  103 

avoirdupois  had  increased  to  about  six  tons  within  the  pre- 
vious five  minutes. 

I  managed  to  "get  off"  the  name  of  the  case,  for  that 
was  written  very  legibly  on  the  outside  of  the  bundle  of 
papers  that  I  held  in  my  trembling  hand ;  and  I  then  began 
to  feel  my  reason  gradually  giving  way.  At  this  critical 
juncture,  P.  B.  S.  came  to  my  relief,  and  in  a  masterly 
manner  "  put  the  thing  entirely  through." 

I  had  not  the  remotest  idea  then,  neither  have  I  now, 
what  it  was  all  about ;  and  indeed  this  is  the  rule — without 
one  single  exception — in  all  the  cases  of  a  legal  nature  in 
which  my  valuable  services  have  been  required. 


XXIII. 

I   START   FOR  CALIFORNIA. 

I  remained  in  the  office  of  B.  and  M.  until  the  latter 
end  of  the  year  1848,  about  which  time  the  California  fever 
raged  high. 

I,  with  numberless  others,  caught  the  complaint,  and 
accordingly,  in  the  month  of  January,  1849, 1  bid  good-bye 
to  my  friends  in  New  York,  and  started  for  Baltimore, 
from  which  port,  on  the  13th  of  the  month,  I,  with  about 
one  hundred  others,  sailed  in  the  schooner  Sovereign,  Cap- 
tain Peterson,  bound  for  Yera  Cruz,  intending  to  take  the 
overland  trip  through  Mexico  to  reach  San  Francisco. 

Some  three  or  four  days  out,  however,  great  disagreement 
occurred  among  the  passengers ;  and  it  ended  in  our  induc- 
ing the  captain  to  head  his  vessel  for  Chagres,  taking  our 
chances  of  finding  a  vessel  at  Panama  to  convey  us  to  the 
golden  land. 

I  shall  quickly  pass  over  the  scenes  and  incidents  of  this 
dreary  and  dismal  trip,  relating  only  one  or  two  of  the  most 
comical  and  tragic. 

The  Isthmus  was  not  then,  as  now,  crossed  in  four  hours, 
but  the  transit  took  about  a  week.  We  rested  for  a  while 
in  the  romantic  village  of  Chagres,  which  consisted  of  a 


104  Drifting  About. 

series  of  mud  huts,  dingy,  dirty,  and  ugly  natives,  forlorn- 
looking  and  half-starved  chickens,  skeleton  dogs,  and  a  few 
stray  and  half-star ved-looking  mules.  The  heat  was  intense, 
and  our  prospects  most  gloomy. 

After  forty-eight  hours'  propelling,  by  naked  native  boat- 
men, in  a  sort  of  covered  canoe,  up  the  Chagres  River,  we 
landed  at  Gorgona,  a  town  very  similar  to  the  one  we  had 
just  left. 

Here  we  pitched  our  tents — (we  were  six  in  company : 
Dr.  D.,  C.  L.,  T.,  A.  D.,  S.  F.,  and  myself,)— and  at  night 
formed  ourselves  into  a  watch,  or  guard,  for  mutual  pro- 
tection. 

Now  it  must  be  understood  by  the  reader,  that  I  have 
never  in  my  life  but  once  fired  off  a  pistol  or  a  gun.  On  the 
occasion  referred  to,  being  on  a  Fourth  of  July  excur- 
sion with  a  friend,  we  were  firing  at  a  target,  which  was 
fixed  on  a  haystack,  somewhere  in  New  Jersey,  when  I, 
standing  within  five  or  six  yards  of  the  stack,  actually 
missed  it ; — consequently,  I  felt  a  little  nervous,  upon  being 
told,  one  night,  that  it  was  my  turn  to  go  on  guard,  and 
that  I  should  have  to  remain  on  duty  four  hours,  and  carry 
a  musket,  pistol,  and  bowie-knife. 

To  make  my  agony  more  intense,  we  had  been  informed 
that  one  or  two  bears  had  recently  been  seen  and  heard  in 
our  immediate  neighborhood  ;  and  that  tigers  and  panthers, 
attracted  by  the  smell  of  the  cooking  of  the  emigrants, 
prowled  about  at  night  quite  near  our  camps  ;  that  thieves 
were  common  ;  and  that  unless,  when  the  watchword  was 
required,  it  was  immediately  responded  to,  the  one  on  guard 
was  shot  dead. 

As  night  came  on,  I  began  to  feel  the  awful  responsibility 
of  my  position.  I  had  been  fully  instructed  by  one  of  our 
company  in  my  duties;  and  provided  by  him  with  a 
musket  loaded  to  the  muzzle,  (the  lock  of  which  I  was 
afraid  to  look  at,  let  alone  touch  it,  for  fear  it  should  "  go 
off,")  a  Colt's  revolver,  and  a  bowie-knife,  used  in  the  day- 
time for  eating  purposes. 

The  night  was  excessively  dark,  a  very  heavy  dew  was 
falling,  and  altogether,  the  gloom  outside  and  inside  the 
several  tents  seemed  universal. 

I  relieved  the  guard  at  twelve  o'clock  at  midnight,  and 


Drifting  About.  105 

of  course  bad  to  remain  on  duty  until  four.  The  know- 
ledge of  my  utter  ignorance  of  matters  military,  as  also  of 
the  proper  use  of  lire  arms,  rendered  my  position  very  per- 
plexing, and  upon  the  slightest  noise  I  found  myself  not 
only  shaking  from  head  to  foot,  but  stammering  out  the 
"  watch-word,"  feeling  certain  that  at  the  proper  time  I 
should  certainly  forget  it. 

Two  or  three  hours — they  seemed  months  to  me — had 
actually  passed,  and  the  morning  began  to  dawn  in  the  dim 
distance,  when  I  distinctly  saw  a  large  dark  object,  moving 
slowly  but  steadily  towards  the  tent,  in  front  of  which  I 
stood. 

I  shook  from  head  to  foot,  I  knew  not  what  to  do.  I 
tried  to  speak,  and  found  that  both  the  "  watch-word,"  and 
my  voice,  had  gone  off  together.  I  would  have  "  hollered" 
right  out,  if  1  could;  but  that,  though  it  might  have 
aroused  the  sleepers,  would,  I  fancied,  have  brought  down 
upon  me  instant  destruction.  The  object  came  nearer  and 
nearer ;  I  was  certain  it  was  a  bear ! — and  I  had  actually 
summoned  sufficient  resolution  and  courage  to  point  the 
butt-end  of  my  gun  at  it,  and  probably  in  another  moment 
would  have  shot  myself,  when  my  unknown  tormentor, 
who  on  all  fours,  and  covered  up  with  a  black  piece  of 
india-rubber  cloth,  made  the  resemblance  so  perfect  to  an 
animal,  threw  off  the  covering,  and  with  a  roar  resembling 
a  wild  beast,  caused  me  to  drop  all  my  fire-arms,  and  run 
for  my  life ! 

The  Doctor  (for  it  was  he)  considered  it  a  first-rate  joke, 
as  did  all  the  party. 

I  didn't  "see  it"  exactly,  as  the  man  says  in  the  play  ; 
but  all  I  know  is,  that  I  have  been  more  on  my  "  guard " 
ever  since. 

The  rest  of  my  journey  across  the  Isthmus  was  performed 
on  the  back  of  a  mule. 

Up  to  this  period  my  donkey-riding  had  been  strictly 
confined  to  a  six-penn'orth,  on  the  aforesaid  animal — that  is 
an  hour's  worth — on  Hampstead  Heath,  or  on  the  Sands  at 
Margate.  I  soon  found  to  my  great  annoyance  and  fear, 
that  the  Spanish  mule,  or  at  least  the  one  with  which  I  was 
furnished,  was  not  quite  so  tractable  or  docile  as  your 
English  donkey  ;  for  upon  being  hoisted  upon  the  back  of 

5* 


lo6  Drifting  About. 

one  of  these  ugly  looking  animals  by  my  muchacho,  he 
commenced  balancing  himself  on  his  fore-legs,  and  giving 
a  kind  of  he-hau!  that  had  the  desired  effect  of  pitching 
me  off  over  his  head,  much  to  the  delight  of  everybody, 
excepting  myself.  Regaining  my  saddle,  and  finding  it 
impossible  to  be  transferred  to  a  less  vicious  animal,  I  pro- 
ceeded on  my  journey,  endeavoring  to  keep  up  with  one  or 
two  of  our  party. 

To  those  of  my  readers  who  remember  the  "  rainy  season  " 
on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  in  January,  1849,  these  reminis- 
cences will  be  fully  appreciated,  but  will  be  little  under- 
stood by  the  tourist  to  the  "  diggings  "  at  the  present  day, 
who  is  transported  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  in  luxu- 
riant cars,  over  a  capital  railroad,  and  in  four  hours'  time ! 

Away  I  went,  fording  rivers,  tumbling  into  holes, 
donkey's  belly-band  giving  way,  saddle  sliding  off,  and 
I  with  it — donkey  cuts  and  runs — I  after  him — up  to  my 
middle  in  water — night  coming  on — dread  of  the  fever, 
find  myself  alone  —  narrow,  stony,  flinty,  and  rugged 
pathway  —  all  sorts  of  animals  my  companions,  lizards, 
monkeys,  alligators,  snakes  innumerable — boy  catches 
donkey,  fixes  saddle,  I  remount,  again  to  be  jolted,  again 
to  be  thrown  off — boy  wallops  donkey,  donkey  kicks.  I 
this  time,  by  the  "  united  aid  of  mane  and  tail,"  keep  my 
seat — jolt,  jolt,  jolt,  bump,  bump,  bump — off  the  donkey 
starts  at  a  gallop.  I,  a  mass  of  jelly  and  perspiration, 
stick  to  him  like  bricks — donkey  comes  to  a  stand-still — I 
am  delighted  and  breathe  freer — rivers,  bogs,  holes,  preci- 
pices, streams,  hills,  valleys,  are  by  me  and  Rosinante 
bravely  passed,  and  the  old  towers  of  Panama  at  last  loom 
up  in  the  distance. 

Eight  days  after  we  left  Chagres  we  found  ourselves  in 
Panama. 

Completely  fagged  out,  jaded  and  "  used  up,"  I  gladly 
availed  myself  as  soon  as  possible,  of  a  lay-down,  and  a 
bath,  at  the  "  American  Hotel." 

This  establishment  was  not  exactly  equal  to  the  Metro- 
politan ;  but  after  the  fearful  privations  I  had  hitherto 
endured,  anything  was  acceptable. 

Panama  is  the  capital  of  New  Granada,  and  one  of  the 
oldest  cities  in  South  America. 


Drifting  About.  107 


XXIV. 

A  STRANGE  ADVENTURE  AT  THE  ISLAND  OF  TOBOGO. 

We  remained  here  about  a  week,  during  which  time  our 
party  had  managed  to  charter  the  English  bark,  "John 
Kitson,"  Captain  Kennedy,  recently  arrived  from  Mary- 
port,  Cumberland,  (England,)  with  a  cargo  of  coal,  for  the 
use  of  the  English  steamers — to  convey  us  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

We  were  some  250  passengers  and  crew ;  and  left  the 
harbor  of  Panama,  in  the  beginning  of  February,  1849,  first 
stopping  at  the  Island  of  Tobogo  for  water. 

Here  a  singular  incident  happened  to  me. 

I  had  been  rambling  over  one  of  the  mountains  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  island,  and  was  greatly  exhausted  and 
fatigued  with  the  heat  and  the  trip,  and  with  my  com- 
panion, Dr.  B ,  had  found  out  a  native  hut,  which  at 

the  same  time  had  the  appearance  of  a  place  of  refresh- 
ment. In  we  ventured,  and  we  managed  between  us,  with 
the  aid  of  a  little  book  of  Spanish  and  English  dialogues, 
to  make  known  our  wishes. 

A  thin  and  haggard-looking  white  woman  was  cooking 
some  extraordinary  dish  in  an  earthen  pot,  and  I  noticed 
that  she  looked  at  me  rather  steadily.  At  last  upon  my 
companion  calling  me  by  name,  she  suddenly  stepped  up  to 
me,  and  in  a  strong  Scotch  accent,  said  :  "  Ah  I  Sir,  ken  ye 
the  name  o'  Dr.  Massett?*'  At  first  I  thought  she  was 
slightly  deranged,  but  upon  her  continuing,  "Ah,  Sir, 
I  ken  him  veery  weel,  there's  sic  a  reseemblance  to  him  as 
died  in  Carthagena,  that  I  thought  you  were  his  brither !" 

I  started,  and  replied :  "Do  you  refer  to  Dr.  Samuel 

M ,  who   married  the    British    Consul's   daughter  in 

Carthagena,  Mr.  W ,  and  died  there  in  1826  ?" 

"  I  do  indeed,  sir,"  she  said.  "  I  nursed  the  gentleman 
in  his  last  illness,  and  he  died  in  my  arms,  sir  I" 

I  need  not  say  I  was  deeply  interested  and  affected  by 
this  strange  and  extraordinary  adventure. 


io8  Drifting  About 


tr> 


Twenty-three  years  had  passed  away  since  the  death  of 
my  eldest  brother,  who  had  fallen  a  victim  to  the  ravages 
of  yellow  fever  during  his  first  year's  residence  in  South 
America;  and  in  the  very  fastnesses  of  a  barren  mountain, 
many  miles  distant  from  the  main-land,  am  I  recognised  as 
his  brother,  by  an  old  Scotch  nurse,  who  was  the  first  to 
give  a  member  of  his  family  the  deeply  interesting  though 
painful  particulars  of  his  last  moments. 

The  little  hut  was  visited  by  me  every  day,  and  at  part- 
ing I  felt  sad  and  sorrowful. 

To  attempt  any  adequate  description  of  the  horrors  of 
the  voyage  on  board  the  "John  Ritson,"  would  not  only  be 
utterly  useless,  but  impossible. 

The  trip  to  Acapulco  in  Mexico,  for  instance,  is 
usually  made  in  five  or  six  days  from  Panama,  by  the 
Steamships  of  the  P.  M.  S.  S.  Company.  We  accomplished 
it  in  thirty. 

The  voyage  from  Acapulco  to  San  Francisco  is  usually 
performed  in  seven  to  eight  days.  We  were  sixty-five  da}rs 
in  reaching  it. 

The  facts  arc  briefly  these.  The  vessel  was  vilely  pro- 
visioned, and  the  captain,  an  ignorant  and  illiterate  North 
Shields  mariner,  was  anxious  to  make  all  he  could  "  out  of 
the  dom  Yankees"  as  he  called  us,  and  instead  of  laying  in 
any  extra  provisions,  he  permitted  his  ship  to  go  to  sea  in 
the  worst  possible  condition,  with  musty  flour,  wormy 
bread,  rotten  meat,  and  filthy  water. 

Upon  leaving  Acapulco,  the  winds  were  very  light,  and 
we  crept  along  at  a  snail's  pace.  When  out  some  two  or 
three  da}rs,  entirely  out  of  sight  of  land,  and  right  in  the 
tropics,  we  were  becalmed,  and  remained  stationary  for  over 
four  weeks. 

How  the  time  passed  I  know  not.  The  heat  was  per- 
fectly fearful,  so  much  so,  that  double  awnings  were  spread 
over  our  heads,  and  added  to  this,  it  was  announced  by  the 
ship's  doctor,  that  there  were  one  or  two  cases  of  malignant 
fever  on  board,  and  the  utmost  precaution  was  neces- 
sary to  prevent  its  spreading  amongst  the  passengers  and 
crew. 


Drifting  About.  109 


A   THIRTY   DAYS'   CALM   ON  THE   PACIFIC. 

Oh  I  the  horrors  of  those  thirty  days  and  thirty  nights  ! 
The  sea  a  sheet  of  glass ;  not  a  ripple  on  its  surface,  the 
scorching,  burning,  furnace-like,  and  enervating  rays  of  the 
sun  penetrating  even  the  double  thick  awning  of  canvas, 
and  rendering  the  deck  too  hot  to  walk  on  with  slippered 
feet,  not  one  single  breath  of  air — all  motionless  and  still 
— scant  of  provisions  and  water — and,  as  if  to  aggravate 
our  miserable  condition,  it  was  on  the  sixth  day  announced, 
that  the  fever  had  broken  out  among  the  passengers,  that  it 
was  infectious,  and  the  greatest  precaution  must  be  used  to 
prevent  its  progress. 

The  dark  wing  of  -the  angel  of  death  hovered  over  the 
doomed  ship,  and  two  that  night  left  us  for  the  "  undiscover- 
ed country. 

The  scene  was  painfully  impressive. 

The  heat  was  so  great  in  the  cabins,  that  all  who  could 
find  room  on  the  deck  carried  up  their  mattresses  and  bed- 
ding, passing  the  night  thereon.  On  the  upper  deck,  ham- 
mocks had  been  swung  for  those  who  were  sick,  and  every 
attention  it  was  possible  to  give  them,  they  received.  The 
two  cases  I  refer  to  were  briefly  these, 

A  young  man,  not  over  twenty-three,  had  managed  to 
get  a  passage  on  board  the  ship  at  Acapulco — he  having 
taken  the  overland  route  through  Mexico — and  full  of 
apparent  health  and  vigor,  with  the  highest  hopes  and 
expectations  of  success  in  the  new  El  Dorado,  had  joined 
our  ship's  company. 

It  appears  that  he  had  been  indulging  freely  in  the  fruits 
which  the  natives  for  a  trifling  sum  offer  for  sale,  and  to 
allay  his  thirst,  had  drunk  to  excess  of  the  arguad'ente — a 
very  inferior  sort  of  liquor  that  is  sold  here,  and  thus 
became  the  first  victim. 

From  the  first  he  was  perfectly  conscious  of  his  approach- 
ing fate — and  in  the  most  pitiable  and  heartrending  manner 
called  by  name  upon  his  relatives  in  his  far  distant  home. 
I  never  shall  forget  the  look  of  intensity  and  despair  as  his 
full  black  eyes,  streaming  with  tears,  looked  up  into  mine, 
and  exclaimed,  "  Oh  !  God — am  I  never  to  see  my  dear 


110  Drifting  About. 

mother  again  ? — do — do,"  turning  to  the  doctor,  "  try  and 
save  me !"  and  almost  immediately  after  he  had  spoken 
these  words,  his  cheeks  assumed  the  unmistakable  death 
pallor,  and  without  uttering  another  word,  he  lingered  in 
a  perfectly  unconscious  state  until  midnight,  when  he 
died. 

The  other  was  an  old  man  seventy-eight  years  of  age, 
who  had  actually  joined  our  vessel  at  Acapulco,  with  all 
the  implements,  tools,  and  utensils  for  a  life  of  toil  in  the 
diggings,  and  who  with  his  servant  had  taken  passage  for 
the  land  of  gold. 

But  death  had  marked  him  for  one  of  his  victims — and 
after  an  illness  of  two  days,  he  expired. 

Hammocks  were  slung  on  the  upper  decks,  and  in  them 
rested  the  dying  and  the  dead. 

The  moon  was  at  its  full.  The  doomed  ship  lay  still 
upon  the  waters — the  sails  hung  lazily  against  the  mast — ■ 
the  heat  was  most  oppressive — there  seemed  to  be  no  air  at 
all — the  deck  was  strewed  with  passengers — some  sleeping 
— some  watching — some  talking  in  subdued  tones — others 
listlessly  lounging  over  the  bulwarks. 

The  night  was  beyond  description  beautiful — although 
our  frightful  circumstances  made  its  very  beauty  a  mockery. 
The  intense  heat  of  the  midday  sun  had  given  place  to  the 
milder  beamings  of  the  silvery  orb,  and  despite  the  oppres- 
siveness of  the  atmosphere,  there  was  a  sense  of  some 
relief  in  the  motionless  ship,  with  its  burden  of  the  living 
and  the  dead.  Suddenly  a  shrill  scream  rang  through  the 
ship,  and  all  eyes  were  turned  to  the  hammock  where  the 
old  man  lay.  His  eyes  were  wide  open — his  jaw  had  fallen 
— the  death  dew  lay  on  his  forehead,  and  as  the  moon  fell 
full  upon  his  face,  it  seemed  to  be  lighted  up  with  an  unearthly 
brightness.  "  There's  another  gone,"  says  the  captain,  "  call 
the  watch  to  sew  him  up,  he  must  be  thrown  overboard 
immediately !" 

There's  no  knowing  who'll  be  the  next ! 

The  unseen  messenger  was  quietly  walking  through  the 
ship,  and  singling  out  his  victims,  and  each  seemed  to  look 
at  his  fellow  with  sympathy,  suspicion,  and  even  dread. 

The  burial  service  was  hurried  over,  and  heavy  stones 
attached  to  the  feet  of  the  dead  men — who  had  first  been 


Drifting  About. 


ill 


sewed  up  in  thin  blankets,  and  afterwards  in  some  can- 
vas. 

They  were  placed  upon  a  board  in  a  slanting  position, 
and  at  a  given  signal  were  tossed  into  the  sea. 

The  little  son  of  the  old  man,  only  some  thirteen  years 
of  age,  stood  by  the  ratlins,  sobbing  bitterly,  and  implor- 
ing some  one  to  take  care  of  him.  We  all  tried  to  comfort 
— to  reassure  him  that  he  should  be  well  looked  after ;  when, 
oh  horror  I  he  burst  out  afresh  with  an  exclamation  that  his 
father  was  not  dead — that  he  had  been  thrown  overboard 
too  soon — and  that  he  and  his  companion  in  death  were 
swimming  to  the  ship !  All  eyes  were  turned  to  the  spot; 
and  there  in  the  bright  moonlight  could  be  seen  the  heads 
of  the  victims,  turned  apparently  to  their  late  abiding-place 
and  imploring  for  aid  and  succor ;  and  there  for  days,  in 
sight  of  the  ship's  crew — aye,  days — they  remained  ;  the 
heavy  stones  that  had  been  attached  to  their  feet  had  slip- 
ped away,  and  the  bodies  arose  to  the  surface. 


But  I  must  draw  a. veil  over  this  dismal — this  soul-har- 
rowing scene ;  and  could  I  inspire  the  reader  witli  a  tithe 
of  the  ecstatic  emotions  of  pleasure  experienced  by  that  dis- 
tressed ship's  company  when  the  heart-stirring  cry  of  "  a 
breeze !    a  breeze !"   was   heard     I   should    rejoice.      As 


112  Drifting  About. 

the  gentle  ripple  on  the  water,  at  first  a  small  black  speck, 
appeared  larger  and  larger,  until  tiny  waves  chased  each 
other  in  multitudinous  and  miraculous  succession — all 
sparkling  and  dancing  in  the  bright  silvery  light,  and  play- 
fully splashing  against  the  sides  of  our  big  ship,  which,  feel- 
ing the  freshening  impulse,  moved  from  her  fathomless 
moorings,  and  fluttering  her  wings  to  the  wind,  sped  onward 
once  again  in  the  direction  of  the  Golden  Land,  I  felt  a 
thrill  of  indescribable  pleasure,  and  gave  vent  to  my  feel- 
ings in  tears  of  joy. 

11  Once  more  upon  the  waters,"  how  we  danced  and 
skipped  and  pranced  through  the  waves ;  for  the  breeze  had 
freshened  into  a  pretty  stiff  gale,  and  our  ship,  as  if  wishing 
to  make  up  for  lost  time,  sped  onward  with  lightning- 
swiftness. 

Off  Cape  St.  Lucas,  the  first  sight  we  obtained  of  the 
land  of  California,  the  wind  increased  to  almost  a  hurricane, 
and  the  contrast  was  indeed  great  to  the  lengthened  calms 
we  bad  so  recently  experienced. 


XXV. 

ARRIVAL  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

On  the  ninety-eighth  day  of  our  departure  from  Panama 
we  arrived  at  the  entrance  to  the  Golden  Gate,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  ninety-ninth  day  entered  the  long  looked 
for  city  of  San  Francisco,  a  city  of  tents  and  wooden  shan- 
ties, somewhat  difficult  to  describe,  as  a  description  of  its 
actual  condition  in  '49  would  seem  fabulous,  as  compared 
with  any  subsequent  account. 

As  a  faithful  chronicler  of  my  individual  fortunes  and 
adventures,  I  will  state,  that  my  amount  of  capital  upon 
reaching  the  New  El  Dorado  was  six  dollars  in  Mexican 
coin  ;  one  of  the  causes  of  the  fearful  depletion  in  the  stock 
financial  being  a  propensity  to  indulge  in  the  good  things 
of  this  life  on  board  the  John  Eitson.  Thus,  starvation 
almost  stared  me  in  the  face,  when  it  suddenly  became 


Drifting  About.  113 

known  that  one  of  our  German  steerage  passengers  had 
purchased  several  hams  and  boxes  of  red  herrings  in  Aca- 
pulco ;  these,  at  the  proper  time,  he  ladled  out  to  the  tune 
of  one  dollar'  a  slice  and  fifty  cents  for  a  herring. 

Being,  unfortunately  for  my  pocket,  very  fond  of  both 
these  edibles,  I  invested  several  dollars  in  this  line,  until  I 
found  my  funds  had  dwindled  down  to  the  scanty  amount 
above  named. 

The  German  lived  on  a  biscuit  a  day ;  and  by  the  time 
of  our  arrival  had,  I  heard,  possessed  himself  of  one  or  two 
hundred  dollars,  with  which  he  commenced  operations,  and 
in  the  short  space  of  six  months  left  with  (wnat  he  consi- 
dered) a  fortune. 

The  first  person  I  met,  that  I  had  known  slightly  when 
in  Mr.  Brady's  office  in  New  York,  was  Col.  J.  D.  Steven- 
son, who  very  kindly  greeted  me  on  the  morning  of  my 
arrival.  The  Colonel,  who  it  will  Be  remembered  was  in 
command  of  the  California  Kegiment  that  left  New  York  in 
1846,  asked  me  what  my  intentions  were  in  coming  to  Cali- 
fornia ;  and  finding,  as  usual,  that  I  had  no  very  definite 
object  in  my  ramblings,  suggested  that  I  should  come  the 
next  day  to  his  office,  saying,  "  You  are  just  the  young  man 
for  me.  You,  of  course,  understand  drawing  deeds,  mort- 
gages, &c. ;  in  fact,  the  general  routine  of  a  lawyer's  office. 
You've  been  in  a  good  school,  and  I  think  we  can  get  along 
very  well  together.  I  have  just  purchased  a  tract  of  land 
— am  going  to  build  a  new  city — a  second  New  York,  sir! 
I  call  it,  sir,  '  New  York  of  the  Pacific,'  sir.  I'll  make 
you  Alcalde,  sir !  Notary  Public,  sir  !  Mayor  of  the  City, 
sir !     Come  and  breakfast  with  me,  sir,  to-morrow." 

"  At  what  time,  colonel  ?"  I  feebly  remarked. 

"  At  six  o'clock,  sir — always  rise  with  the  lark — nothing 
like  getting  up  early,  sir — business  man,  sir.  Go  to  bed 
early — keep  steady — don't  drink,  and  your  fortune's  made 
in  no  time  1  As  to  pay,  I  give  you  $150  a  month  to  com- 
mence with,  and  your  board — that's  two  ounces  ($32) 
a  week  !" 

I  could  scarcely  stand.  I  was  afraid  the  Colonel  had 
made  a  mistake,  and  meant  $150  a  year  1  (But  I  soon  found 
out  that  everything  went  by  the  month  in  California.) 
The  stories  of  the  Arabian  Nights,  the  exploits  of  Baron 


1 1 4  Drifting  About. 

Munchausen,  faded  into  insignificance,  compared  with  my 
exploits ;  and  when  the  Colonel,  asking  me  if  I  wanted  any 
money,  was  informed  that  there  was  a  debt  owing  to  a  per- 
son on  board  of  some  $260,  that  I  was  very  anxious  to  can- 
cel, replied,  "  Oh  yes,  sir ;  tell  him  to  come  to  the  office  in 
the  morning,  and  I'll  ivevjh  him  out  the  dust"  I  knew  not 
whether  I  stood  on  my  head  or  my  heels,  so  delirious  was 
I  with  surprise  and  delight. 

My  companions  (the  Coopers),  kind-hearted  Marylanders, 
whose  generous  offers  of  friendship  and  consideration  I  shall 
never  forget,  and  who,  one  and  all,  if  they  ever  read  these 
lines,  will  be  good  enough,  at  this  late  day,  to  accept  my 
warmest  thanks,  congratulated  me  on  my  good  fortune,  and 
joined  with  me  in  a  general  "  hooray !"  at  my  streak  of 
luck — I  being  the  first  one  of  our  ship's  company  that  had 
found  employment. 

The  next  day,  bright  and  early,  I  found  out  the  Colonel, 
and  after  breakfast  went  with  him  to"  the  office,  which 
Stood  in  those  days  on  Montgomery  street,  at  about  whore 
Genella's  crockery  store  now  stands,  and  next  door  to  Joe 
Bedleman's  store. 


XXVI. 

colonel  Stevenson's  office. 

It  was  a  wooden  shanty,  with  a  door  that  opened  with  a 
rusty  old  latch,  immediately  behind  which  was  a  wooden 
bunk,  that  was  occupied  at  that  time  by  the  bookkeeper  of 
C.  W.  Eoss,  a  Scotchman  by  the  name  of  Crogan.  The 
room  had  one  window  in  it  that  looked  on  the  bay,  the 
water,  at'high  tide,  coming  up  to  our  door  sill,  so  that  fre- 
quently I  have  had  to  wade  up  to  my  middle  to  get  into 
my  crib  ! 

The  walls  were  adorned  with  large  maps,  most  gorgeousty 
got  up  by  my  fellow  clerk,  who  happened  to  be  a  brother 
Englishman,  named  Eowe.  The  "  desk  "  was  a  long  deal 
board,  relieved  at  intervals  by  two  old  tea  cups  (both  full 
of  ink),  paper,  pens  ;    and  by  its  side  was  a  cupboard,  with 


Drifting  About.  115 

two  or  three  nameless  utensils  filled  with  gold  dust;  three 
wooden  stools,  very  shaky  and  rickety,  and  the  fixtures 
and  furniture  are  complete. 

On  the  outside  the  people  were  informed  that  that  was 
J.  D.  Stevenson's  Land  Office  and  Agency  of  Lots  in  "New 
York  of  the  Pacific." 

Immediately  under  this  they  were  also  informed  that 
Stephen  C.  Massett  was  a  Notary  Public  and  Commissioner 
of  Deeds. 

The  rush  for  lots  in  this  magnificent  embryo  city  was 
great. 

It  was  something  in  this  style : — Man,  just  from  the  mines, 
comes  in,  and  wants  to  invest  his  surplus  "  gold-dust." 

"  Got  any  good  lots,  Col.  ?"   Col.  S rises,  and  with  a 

long  stick  points  to  the  map,  offering  a  few  remarks  like 
these  to  the  astonished  and  bewildered  purchaser. 

"  You  see,  sir,  these  lots  are  what  we  call  water  lots,  sir. 
I  couldn't  part  wifli  these  under  $1000  a  lot,  as  from  their 
'positions—this  being  ilie  head  of  navigation,  sir — that  is  a 
fixed  fact,  sir — they  will  command  shortly  a  very  high 
figure.  ISfow  these  on  F.  street  I  have  reserved  for  the 
'public  schools.'  I  am  determined  to  have  an  institution 
of  this  kind  properly  cared  for — and  next  to  this,  sir,  I 
have  placed  these  lots  on  A.  M.  and  A.  for  the  'Court 
House,'  'City  Hall,'  and  the.  'Hall  of  Eecords  and 
Mayor's  or  Alcalde's  office,' "  (pointing. to  me,  and  remark- 
ing that  I  had  just  arrived  from  New  York  to  take  charge 
of  this  highly  responsible,  lucrative,  and  dignified  posi- 
tion !) 

The  excited  miner,  with  visions  of  prospective  wealth, 
in  the  rapid  and  astounding  advance  of  real  estate  in  this 
golden  land,  pulls  out  his  buckskin  bag,  and  away  rattles 
the  gold  into  the  Chinese  scales;  he  takes  two  lots,  pays 
his  $500  (they  are  $250  apiece).  I  make  out  the  "  deeds," 
record  them  immediately,  in  fact  do  everything  that  in 
such  cases  is  usually  done,  made,  and  provided. 

The  man  leaves  his  gold-dust,  and  takes  his  deed — nei- 
ther one  nor  the  other  to  be  heard  of  afterwards.  This, 
during  my  stay  in  this  exalted  sphere  of  action,  was 
invariably  the  case — with  one  single  and  honorable  excep- 
tion— which  I  shall  presently  mention. 


ii6  Drifting  About. 

Vessels  were  arriving  almost  daily  from  the  Eastern 
States,  particularly  from  New  York,  luring  hundreds  and 
hundreds  of  gold-seekers — many  having  letters  of  recom- 
mendation to  "  Col.  Stevenson,"  some  from  those  who 
knew  the  Col.  only  by  name,  others  from  old  friends  in  the 
East. 

Letters  of  introduction  are  very  frequently  an  incon- 
venience, both  to  the  giver  and  receiver,  and  as  a  means  of 
intercourse  ought  to  be  very  sparingly  indulged  in ;  but 
when  they  come  by  the  dozen  a  day — they  were  sometimes 
more  and  sometimes  less,  they  really  become  a  nuisance 
almost  intolerable. 

One  morning  in  particular  I  shall  not  easily  forget. 

The  office  was  completely  filled  with  "  new  arrivals,"  all 
anxious  for  direction  and  advice,  and  all  feeling  that  the 
"  Col."  ought  to  be  delighted  to  see  them,  and  bestow  upon 
them  his  entire,  and  undivided  attention. 

M  Could  you  inform  us,  Col.,  which  of  the  mines  is  the 
best  to  start  for  ?  How  much  gold  they  are  taking  out — • 
could  you  show  us  some — how  much  does  it  cost  to  get  up 
there,  etc.  etc.,"  and  a  thousand  such  queries  would  be  asked 
and  expected  to  be  replied  to.  If  the  Col.  was  busy  he 
would  refer  them  to  me,  when  of  course,  from  my  personal 
observation  and  lengthened  residence  in  the  country,  they 
questions  were  very  satisfactorily  answered. 

"  The  Southern  mines,  I  think,  are  turning  out  larger 
qnantities  than  any  other,"  I  replied ;  this  was  a  standing 
answer. 

On  the  day  in  question  a  clerical-looking  individual, 
with  a  wife  and  two  children,  presented  himself  to  the 
"  Col."  with  a  letter  of  introduction.  And  the  liberal  offer 
of  the  Col.  to  present  him  free  gratis  with  a  lot  of  land 
{provided  he  ivould  build  a  house  within  thirty  days  /)  in  the 
beautifully  situated,  and  flourishing  town  of  "  New  York 
of  the  Pacific,"  with  the  prospect  of  being  the  very  first 
clergyman  settled  in  that  delightful  locality  ;  and  the  addi- 
tional promise  of  the  "  Col.,"  that  the  particular  church, 
ordered  by  himself,  and  which  was  then  "  coming  round  the 
Horn,"  should  be  under  his  entire  guidance  and  direction, 
induced  the  unfortunate  minister  of  the  gospel  to  pack  up 
his  traps  that  afternoon,    and  with  his  wife   and   infant 


Drifting  About. 


.17 


children,  and  to  leave  in  an  open  boat  for  the  scene  of  his 
future  labors. 

If  the  reader,  some  weeks  afterwards  (for  it  had  taken 
them  seven  days  in  an  open  boat  to  get  up  there),  had  seen 
the  forlorn-looking  object  that  presented  itself  at  the  office, 
upon  inquiry  almost  daily,  if  the  "  tabernacle"  had  arrived, 
he  would  indeed  have  pitied,  him. 

Prior  to  their  having  been  almost  entirely  eaten  up  by 
mosquitoes,  his  wife  and  children  had  died  of  chills  an<d 
fever,  while  he,  with  his  face  covered  with  blotches  and 
pimples,  was  shaking  with  the  same  complaint. 

After  muttering  to  himself — that  it  was  "  the  Lord's 
doings,  and  marvellous  in  his  eyes,"  he  left  the  office,  and 
was  never  seen  or  heard  of  afterwards ! 


[See  page  107.] 


Incidents  most  comic  were  occurring  daily ;  but  decidedly 
one  of  the  "  cutest"  and  smartest,  in  reference  to  the  pur- 
chasing of  lots  in  the  new  and  flourishing  town  of  "  New 
York  of  the  Pacific,"  and  the  subsequent  repudiation 
thereof,  was  the  following,  which  will  be  fully  appreciated, 
if  these  lines  ever  fall  beneath  the  eye  of  my  old  friend, 


n8  Drifting  About. 

Dick  E ,  of  Philadelphia,  now  of  Leghorn  ;  it  being  the 

only  instance  in  the  memory  of  mortal  man  of  the  slightest 
realization  of  any  money  once  invested  in  this  (supposed  to 
be)  wonderful  and  rapidly  growing  locality. 

Captain  Mahlon  D.  E ,  then,  was  the  commander  of 

a  small-sized  schooner,  that  he  proposed  running  on  the 
San  Joaquin  and  Suisun  Bay  Eivers.  He  had  been  suc- 
cessful in  his  mining  operations,  and  had  returned  to  the 
"  Bay"  with  several  large  and  small-sized  buckskin  bags 
filled  with  the  "  ore."  Attracted  by  the  wonderful  reports 
of  the  "  Colonel's"  newly  laid  out  city,  and  of  the  rapidity 
of  its  growth,  as  also  of  the  immense  amount  of  lots  that 
were  daily  sold ;  of  the  positive  certainty  of  their  future 
advancement,  these  were  sufficient  inducements  for  the  gal- 
lant captain  to  present  himself  at  our  office,  and  in  the 
blandest  manner  ask  to  inspect  the  map  of  the  Colonel's 
flourishing  city.  I  turned  round,  and  to  my  great  surprise 
saw  a  handsomely  dressed,  good-looking  fellow,  with  an 
immense  shirt-collar  on.  This  latter  was  a  luxury  rarely 
indulged  in,  and  it  therefore  excited  my  attention,  for 
washing  be  it  known  was  then  eight  and  nine  dollars  a 
dozen !  Upon  my  pointing  out  five  available  lots — lots 
that  would  certainly  double  in  value  in  two  months — and 
as  the  purchaser  promised  to  build  within  thirty  days  (the 
old  dodge),  the  "  Col."  in  consideration  thereof  put  at  the 
surprisingly  low  figure  of  $1000. 

Well — I  made  out  the  deeds  and  pocketed  my  $25  for 
recording — this  was  clear  profit — the  captain  left  the  "  land- 
office"  with  his  live  deeds,  revelling  doubtless  in  visions  of 
being  prospectively  a  wealthy  landowner.  Two  months 
came  along — so  did  the  captain — who  had  tried  in  vain  to 
get  within  miles  of  the  locality,  having  I  think  he  said  lost 
several  boats  in  endeavoring  to  reach  the  shore; — and  after 
great  exertion  in  finding  the  "  ranch,"  was  rendered  stone- 
blind  by  the  myriads  of  mosquitoes  that  infested  the  place 
— stung  to  the  quick  by  the  appearance  of  things  in  general, 
and  the  loss  of  his  money  in  particular — he  rushed  for  our 
office,  offering  to  return  the  lots  for  $600 — this  the  "  Col." 

:'  gladly  (?)  assented  to — the  deeds  were  cancelled,  and  the 
"  captain"  walked  off — the  first  and  the  last  man  that  was 

j  ever  known  to  have  even  realized  a  portion  of  the  money 


Drifting  About.  119 

invested  in  this  "  scheme."  Many  laughable,  many  strange 
and  serious,  incidents  and  adventures,  I  passed  through 
during  these  early  days  of  my  California  experience — but 
writing  as  I  am  now  doing  entirely  from  memory,  aided 
only  by  some  printed  matter,  and  a  few  stray  items  in 
manuscript  that  I  have  preserved,  renders  it  somewhat 
difficult  to  transfer  them  to  paper. 


XXVII. 

FIRST  CONCERT  GIVEN  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

In  the  month  of  June,  1849,  some  of  my  New  York 
friends  advised  me  to  give  an  entertainment — there  being 
at  this  time  no  place  of  amusement  of  any  sort  open  in 
San  Francisco.  It  was  my  first  essay  to  appear  in  a  mono- 
logue performance,  and  as  it  was  the  first  public  entertain- 
ment of  any  sort  or  kind  on  the  Pacific  coast,  I  think  it 
may  be  entitled  to  a  brief  space  in  these  my  "adventures." 
The  "  Annals  of  San  Francisco"  gives  the  following  in 
relation  thereto : 

"  On  Monday  evening,  June  22d,  1849,  a  concert  of  vocal 
music  was  performed  at  the  old  school-room  on  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  plaza,  and  this  may  probably  be  regarded 
as  first  among  the  regular  amusements  of  San  Francisco. 
It  was  given,  entirely  unassisted,  by  Mr.  Stephen  C. 
Massett,  at  the  suggestion  of  many  of  his  New  York 
friends.  The  little  room  was  crowded  to  suffocation,  the 
proceeds  yielding  the  vocalist  over  five  hundred  dollars. 
The  following  is  the  programme,  a  curiosity  well  worthy 
of  preservation,  printed  at  the  office  of  the  '  Alta  Cali- 
fornia,' then  the  only  paper  in  the  city.  '  Front  seats,'  it 
will  be  observed,  were  reserved  for  ladies,  of  whom  there 
were  but  four  present.  The  piano  used  (we  believe  there 
was  only  one  in  the  country)  upon  the  occasion,  was  loaned 
by  Mr.  E.  Harrison,  the  collector  of  the  port,  and  sixteen 
dollars  were  paid  for  removing  it  from  the  custom-house  to 
the  gphool-room,  situated  on  opposite  sides  of  Portsmouth 
Square." 


120  Drifting  About. 


PROGRAMME. 

PART  I. 

1.  Song. — u  When  the  Moon  on  the  Lake."  Words  and  Music  by 
S.  C.  Massett. 

2.  Recitation. — Mr.  Massett :  The  Frenchman,  the  Exquisite,  and  the 
Yankee  in  Richard  III. 

3.  Song.— Mr.  Massett:  "My  Boyhood's  Home,"  from  the  Opera  of 
AmiUe. 

4.  An  Imitation  of  Madame  Anna  Bishop,  in  her  song  of  "  The 
Banks  of  Guadalquiver." 

5.  Song. — "  When  a  child  I  roamed."  Words  and  Music  by  S.  C. 
Massett. 

6.  An  Imitation  of  an  elderly  lady  and  German  girl,  who  applied 
for  the  situation  of  soprano  and  alto  singers  in  one  of  the  churches  in 
Massachusetts.     S.  C.  Massett 

part  ii. 

1.  Song. — Mr.  Massett:  "When  time  hath  bereft  thee,"  from  Gus- 
tavus  III. 

2.  Mr.  Massett:  "Loss  of  the  Steamship  President,"  by  Epes 
Sargent. 

3.  Mr.  Massett :  "  I'm  sitting  on  the  stile,  Mary,"  by  W.  R.  Demp- 
ster. 

4.  An  Imitation  of  the  N.  Y.  Razor  Strop  Man,  John  Smith. 

5.  Ballad. — "  She  wore  a  wreath  of  Roses."  (Mr.  Massett.)  J.  P. 
Knight 

6.  Ballad. — "  List  while  I  sing."  Composed  by  Stephen  C.  Mas- 
sett. 

7.  Yankee  Imitation. — "Deacon  Jones  and  Setb  Slope."  S.  C. 
Massett. 

8.  To  conclude  with  the  celebrated 

"  YANKEE  TOWN  MEETING;" 

In  which  Mr.  Massett  will  give  imitations  of  seven  different  persons, 
who  had  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  "  suppressing  the  press." 

Tickets  $3  each,  to  be  had  at  Dr.  Robinson's,  Chemist  and  Druggist, 
on  the  plaza ;  at  the  "  Parker  House,"  of  Mr.  Massett ;  at  the  office  of 
Col.  J.  D.  Stevenson,  and  at  the  door  on  the  night  of  the  performance. 

N.  B. — "  Front  seats  reserved  for  ladies  I" 


Drifting  About.  121 

XXVIII. 

I  AM  MADE  (LORD)  MAYOR  OF  N.  Y.   OF  THE  PACIFIC. 

In  looking  over  some  old  papers  recently,  I  found  my 
"  Commission"  as  "  Alcalde,"  "  Notary  Public,"  and  Com- 
missioner of  Deeds  for  New  York  of  the  Pacific.  Here  is 
a  copy — 

"  Know  all  men  by  these  Presents,  that  I  Bennet  Riley, 
Brevet  Brigadier  General,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Governor  of  Cali- 
fornia, by  virtue  of  authority  in  me  vested,  do  hereby 
appoint  and  confirm  Stephen  C.  Massett  as  Alcalde  in  and 
for  the  '  City  of  New  York  of  the  Pacific'  in  the  State  of 
California,  and  also  a  l  Notary  Public"  and  l  Commissioner 
of  Deeds'  for  the  same  City  and  County,  to  date  from  the 
1st  day  of  July,  1849. 

Given  under  my  hand  and  seal  at  Monterey,  Lower  Cali- 
fornia, June  28,  1849. 

B.  Riley, 
[Official.]  Bt.  Brig.  Gen.  U.  S.  Army,  and 

Governor  of  California. 
H.  W.  Halleck, 

Bt.  Capt.,  and  Secretary  of  State." 

This  was  the  first,  and  in  all  probability  will  be  the  last 
position  of  the  kind  I  shall  ever  occupy.  Those  unac- 
quainted with  the  definition  of  the  word  u  Alcalde,"  are 
respectfully  informed  that  it  means  the  chief  magistrate  of 
a  city.  Added  to  this  the  highly  important  and  lucrative 
offices  of  "  Notary  Public"  and  "  Commissioner  of  Deeds," 
were  fairly  thrust  upon  me ! 

I  began  to  feel  the  weight  of  office— and  of  course  in  a 
proportionate  degree  my  own  importance! — and  when  a 
letter  came  to  me  (sent  by  some  cruel  wag  I)  directed  the 
Hon.  S.  C.  Massett,  Alcalde,  etc.,  I  nearly  fell  off  the  stool. 

I  was  even  seriously  thinking  of  sending  to  London  to 
get  a  pattern  of  the  Lord  Mayor's  gown — wig — sword  and 
mace.    I  had  fully  intended  to  have  had  a  "  Lord  Mayor's 


122  Drifting  About. 

show  on  the  ninth  of  November" — had  settled  upon  the 
plan  of  my  house — and  determined  upon  engaging  a  Lady 
Mayoress — but  castles  built  on  the  air  are  one  thing — and 
houses  on  N.  Y.  of  the  Pacific  are  quite  another — and 
when  the  reader  is  informed  that  of  all  the -houses — iron  at 
that — which  in  the  month  of  May,  1849,  Col.  Stevenson  sent 
for  from  New  York  to  come  "  round  the  horn"  or  rather 
"  in  a  horn" — not  one  up  to  this  present  writing  has  arrived 
— and  that  th6se — I  believe  two  in  all — built  by  some 
unfortunate  wight — sank  to  rise  no  more,  carrying  owners 
and  all  with  them,  a  few  hours  after  their  erection  ;  they 
will  understand  and  duly  appreciate  the  height  of  the  posi- 
tion from  which  I  have  fallen,  and  my  indifference  at  the 
time  to  obey  the  mandate  of  the  Colonel,  "  to  take  up  my 
bed,  and  walk"  to  the  scene  of  my  future  labors. 

The  reader  was  informed  that  when  I  landed  in  this 
wonderful  city,  I  was  the  fortunate  possessor  of  six  dollars 
in  current  coin.  Five  dollars  of  this  vanished  in  a  meal 
for  "  two,"  at  the  Excelsior  Restaurant,  immediately  upon 
our  arrival — and  if  you  would  like  to  know  why  I  invested 
so  large  a  proportion  of  my  capital,  I  reply  that  the  most 
ordinary  meal  cost  two  dollars — that  eggs  were  a  dollar  a- 
piece — that  coffee  was  fifty  cents  a  cup,  and  therefore,  under 
the  circumstances,  the  meal  for  myself  and  companion 
(considering  our  hungry  state)  was  not  so  enormous.  It 
will  hardly  be  believed  at  the  present  day,  that  such  prices 
were  asked,  and  readily  paid  by  the  "new  comers;"  but 
having,  fortunately  for  my  own  veracity,  (voracity  I  think 
I  ought  to  say)  a  real  Simon  Pure  bill  of  fare  of  one  of  the 
then  principal  eating-houses  of  San  Francisco — I  present  it 
entire,  if  only  to  certify  to  the  correctness  of  my  assertion. 

Bill  of  Fare. 

WARD  HOUSE,  RUSSELL  AND  MEYERS,  PROPRIETORS, 

Thursday,  December  27,  1849. 

Soup. 

Ox-tail  (per  dish) $1  00 

Fish. 
Baked  trout,  white  and  anchovy  sauce $1  00 


Drifting  About. 


l23 


Roast. 

Beef  (per  plate)        .        .     $1  00  1  Mutton     . 

Lamb      .        .        .        .     $1  00  J  Pork  (apple  sauce)  . 

$1  00 
$1  00 

Boiled. 

Leg  of  mutton,  caper  sauce  $1  25  1  Corned  beef  and  cabbage  . 
Ham  (per  plate)        .         .     $1  00  |  Pig's  feet, 

$1  25 
$1  75 

Entrees. 

Curried  sausages      .         .     $1  00  I  Tenderloin,  lamb,  gr.  pease    $1  25 

Beef,  stewed  with  onions     $1  25  |  Venison,  port  wine  sauce      $1  50 

Stewed  kidney,  sauce  de  champagne $1  25 

Extras. 
Fresh  California  eggs  (each)    ..       .        .         .  .        .     $1  00 

Game, 

Curlew,  roast  or  boiled  to  order $3  00 

Vegetables. 


Sweet  potatoes,  baked 
Irish        "  boiled 

Squash    . 


Bread  pudding 
Mince  pie    . 
Apple  pie     . 
Brandy  Peach 


Champagne  (per  bottle) 
Half  bottle       . 
Pale  sherry 
Old  madeira     . 
Old  port  (pints) 


50  cents. 
50     " 
50    " 


Irish  potatoes,  (mashed)  50  cents. 
Cabbage   .        .        .        50     " 
Beans       .         .        .        50     " 


Pastr 


75  cents. 
75     " 
75    " 
2  dollars. 


Rum  omelette 
Jelly 

Cheese     . 
Stewed  prunes 


Wines. 


.    $5  00 

.     $2  00 

.     $3  00 

.     $4  00 

.    $1  75 

Claret  (per  bottle) 
Cider  " 

Porter  " 

Ale  " 

Brandy         " 


$2  00 

$2  00 

50 

75 


$2  00 
$2  00 
$2  00 
$2  00 
$2  00 


Breakfast  from  half-past  seven  to  eleven,  a.m. 
Dinner  from  half-past  one  to  six,  p.m. 
Tea  from  half-past  six  to  twelve,  p.m. 

So  endeth  the  bill  of  fare — and  I  will  bet  such  another  is 
not  to  be  seen  for  the  next  hundred  years. 

The  restaurant  was  always  filled,  and  nobody  went 
away  without  paying,  though  it  is  evident  from  a  casual 
inspection  of  the  above  precious  document,  that  an  ordinary 


124  Drifting  About. 

dinner  for  a  gentleman  of  respectable  appetite  would  have 
cost  about  ten  dollars !  I  have  heard  it  remarked  that 
there  was  about  this  time  extraordinary  dissipation  to  be 
every  day  witnessed  in  and  about  the  streets  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. The  causes  that  led  to  it  are  not,  however,  generally 
known — the  above  bill  may  throw  a  little  light  upon  the 
subject.  What  a  temptation'  was  offered  to  a  man  of 
slender  means  to  procure  a  bottle  of  brandy  at  a  dollar,  and 
becoming  intensely  drunk  thereon — to  forget  his  hunger 
and  purity  together !  Many  a  man  could  not  afford  to  eat 
dinner  in  those  days,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  many 
unfortunates  took  to  drinking  brandy  to  calm  the  pangs 
of  hunger,  which  they  could  not  allay  in  a  legitimate  man- 
ner. 

I  was  introduced  by  Col.  Stevenson  upon  one  occasion  to 
Mr.  Samuel  Brannan,  now  one  of,  if  not  the  most  wealthy, 
citizens  of  that  state,  and  at  his  suggestion,  and  promise 
that  I  should  act  as  "  auctioneer"  on  the  contemplated  sale 
of  his  large  stock  of  goods  at  the  "  embarcadero,"  1  left  the 
Bay  for  its  sister  city,  Sacramento. 

In  those  days,  the  river  bearing  that  name  was  navigated 
by  "  schooners,"  open  boats,  etc.,  no  luxuriant  steamers  at 
that  early  period  were  to  be  seen.  So  packing  up  my 
"  duds,"  and  engaging  a  passage  in  the  schooner,  "  Water 
Witch,"  for  $25,  I  left  "  Clarke's  Point"  for  a  new  scene 
of  labor. 

Arriving  at  Sacramento  City  in  about  six  days  (it  is  now 
done  in  ten  hours)  tired  out  and  miserable,  I  sought  the 
comforts  of  a  "bath,"  and  a  "  lay  down." 

The  bath  was  accomplished  by  a  "  ducking"  at  even-tide 
in  the  river,  after  which  I  shouldered  my  trunk  with  a 
dozen  others,  having  been  directed  to  a  "  lodging-house" 
called  the  "  City  Hotel,"  which  was  then  nearly  completed, 
and  as  I  think  it  might  interest  the  present  generation  in 
general,  and  the  keepers  of  taverns  in  particular,  to  see  the 
style  of  accommodation,  I  propose  to  give  a  sketch  of  the 
interior  of  my  sleeping  apartment. 

Here  it  is.  I  think  mine  was  the  corner  "  bunk,"  and 
if  the  reader  will  kindly  look  at  the  expression  of  my  face, 
he  or  she  will  discover  that  I  was  not  exactly  lying  upon  a 
bed  of  roses. 


Drifting  About. 


125 


The  .heat  was  insufferable,  mosquitoes  were  buzzing 
about,  and  with  their  slow  though  sure  attendants,  fleas, 
and  bed-bugs  came  in  myriads  to  greet  and  congratulate 
me  upon  my  arrival.  Scratching  and  itching,  itching  and 
scratching,  kept  me  pretty  well  awake  all  night ;  and  then 
the  stifled  smell — the  noise  inside  and  out — the  swearing 
and  snoring  of  the  occupants,  the  barking  of  clogs,  the  leav- 
ing of  numberless  trains  of  mules  and  donkeys  outside,  the 
cries  of  children,  rendered  the  scene  a  perfect  pandemonium 
— and  to  crown  the  whole,  just  as  I  had  managed  from 
sheer  exhaustion  to  "drop  off  into  a  doze,"  I  felt  a  heavy 
bump  come  up  against  the  slender  board  that  screened  me 
from  the  street — when  to  my  astonishment  the  head  of  a 
big  ox  presented  itself,  and  with  its  cold  and  moist  snout 
commenced  rubbing  against  my  knee ! 

I  couldn't  stand  this  any  longer,  and  I  leaped  from  my 
"slat"  in  the  second  tier.  + 

I  walked  about  till  early  daylight.  But  I  soon  found 
out  that  this  was  not  the  place  to  grumble  or  complain,  or 
in  fact  to  be  surprised,  disgusted,  or  astonished  at  anything, 
and  I  quickly  went  to  work  to  establish  myself  as  "  Auc- 
tioneer." 

A  Mr.  Montgomery  had  got  "  ahead  of  me"  in  the  sale 
of  "  Brannan's  store,"  he  having  offered  to  do  it  at  a  very 


126  Drifting  About. 

low  per  centage — and  thus  the  first  chance  of  holding  the 
hammer  was  taken  from  me. 

I  was,  however,  that  day  introduced  to  a  Mr.  Charles  O. 
Brewster,  who  had  then  recently  arrived  from  Boston,  and 
in  less  time  almost  than  it  takes  me  to  write  these  lines — 
an  article  of  agreement  was  made  out — our  "  Store"  taken 
and  leased — and  I  was  busy  painting  our  sign  ! 

In  those  days  everybody  was  crazy — money  came  and 
went — went  and  came — you  knew  not  how  and  cared  not 
where — from  morning  till  night  it  was  one  scene  of  excite- 
ment and  frenzy !  Swearing,  grumbling,  drinking,  and 
almost  everybody  rushing  to  the  diggings — gamblers  occu- 
pied every  tent  (houses  there  were  none),  and  shanties 
where  liquor  of  the  vilest  kind  was  sold  at  fifty  cents  per 
glass,  and  piles  of  Mexican  ounces  and  silver  coin  covered 
the  tables,  thousands  of  dollars  were  lost  and  won  in  a 
single  night,  quiet  there  was  none — and  every  one  had  at 
least  to  appear  to  take  part  in  the  general  excitement. 


XXIX. 

THE  AUCTION  HOUSE   OF   MASSETT  AND  BREWSTER. 

The  shanty  on  J  street  that  we  had  hired  for  three  hun- 
dred dollars  per  month,  looked  more  like  a  stable  than  an 
"Auction  house,"  and  had  been  occupied  as  a  bar-room  by 
a  "  Monte"  dealer. 

With  the  purchase  (including  the  good  "will"  and  fix- 
tures), we  were  the  possessors  of  the  remains  of  a  once  well 
stocked  bar,  and  here  I  kept  "  open  house"  until  our  stock 
of  liquors  had  vanished;  the  remaining  "  traps"  we  resolved 
to  seli  at  auction. 

My  partner  C.  O.  B.  then  went  to  the  "  Bay"  to  make 
some  purchases  of  goods  which  we  intended  "  offering"  at 
night  auction. 

In  the  course  of  time,  the  goods  arrived,  and  having 
painted  "Night  Auction"  on  a  piece  of  calico,  tacked  it  on  a 
frame  in  the  shape  of  a  cocked  hat,  and  stuck  a  candle  in- 


Drifting  About.  127 

side,  I  stood  at  the  door,  and  rang  a  bell,  at  the  same  time 
informing  the  "  outsiders"  that  I  was  just  a  "  going  to  begin" 
to  "  open"  the  rarest  and  richest  stock  of  goods  fresh 
arrived  from  S.  F.,  and  begged  them  to  walk  in. 

The  profits  were  enormous ;  I  think  our  first  venture  was 
for  about  $1,000.  We  made  about  $2,000  on  the  purchase. 
The  first  night  auction  was  quite  an  event.  The  little 
room  was  filled  in  every  corner ;  the  stock  offered  consisted 
in  part  of  "  Pea-jackets,"  blankets,  socks,  boots,  shoes,  etc. 
The  greatest  "  swindle"  I  think  on  the  present  occasion  was 
this :  a  young  "  Muchacho"  fresh  from  the  diggings  came 
up  to  the  counter,  and  pointing  to  a  paper  of  "Jews'  harps," 
asked  the  price  of  one  (they  cost  about  one  dollar  a  gross), 
at  the  same  time  offering  me  a  chunk  of  gold  for  it,  weighing 
at  least  eight  dollars — I  of  course  took  it — it  was  a  legiti- 
mate trade — and  he  went  on  bis  way  perfectly  delighted. 

Among  those  who  composed  my  audience  upon  this  my 
first  appearance,   and  who  if  they  ever  read  these  lines 

will   laugh,  I   know  ! — were  Judge    M ,    Mr.   P , 

J.  T.  E ,  Professor  S ,  Dr.  D ,  and  others.     It 

will  scarcely  be  believed,  but  upon  these  occasions  our 
profits  were  never  less  than  one  hundred  dollars  a  night,  and 
yet  such  was  the  insanity  of  the  times,  we  did  not  think  this 
was  making  money  fast  enough,  and  gave  it  up,  to  devote 
ourselves  exclusively  to  "  our  day-sales." 

The  first  really  important  one  that  we  made,  was  at  the 
far-famed  "Sutter's  Fort,"- where  the  gallant  Captain  Sutter 
resided  with  his  Indians,  at  the  time  of  the  discovery  of 
the  gold.  The  Fort  was  about  two  miles  from  the  city, 
and  at  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing  was  one  of  the 
"  Institutions"  of  the  place. 

I  had  been  introduced  to  a  jolly  fat  and  burly  looking 
little  Englishman,  named  Tom  W ,  who  acted  as  over- 
seer, and  head  man  of  the  Captain's  at  the  fort,  and  the 
Captain  having  concluded  to  sell  out  his  stock  of  merchan- 
dise, I  was  selected  by  his  agent  "  Captain  Thomas  White" 
to  do  the  "  auctioneering  "  upon  the  occasion. 

We  had  M  billed"  the  city  pretty  well,  for  several  days 
previous  to  the  "  sale,"  I  and  my  partner  going  from  one 
end  of  the  town  to  the  other,  I  with  "  tacks  and  hammer" 
with  the  bills — which  had  been  written  by  me  in  "  very 


,(fl 


128  Drifting  About. 

large  letters,"  telling  the  public  in  general,  that  on  the  first 
of  October,  a  large  sale  would  take  place  in  the  above 
locality.  The  day  was  oppressively  hot,  and  therefore  the 
firm  of  "  Massett  and  Brewster"  took  the  precaution  to 
leave  their  "  Sale-rooms" — big  word  that  considering  the 
premises  looked  more  like  a  large  sized  pigs'  sty — at  an 
early  hour  in  the  morning,  judiciously  dropping  here  and 
there  a  brief  catalogue  of  the  particulars. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  Fort,  I  found  my  friend  White  had 
duly  arranged  the  entire  stock  into  lots,  requesting  me  to 
"put  through"  or  "hurry  up"  the  "truck,"  fancy  articles, 
and  light  goods,  first  reserving  for  the  last  part  of  the  sale 
the  heavy  goods,  such  as  flour,  clothing,  &c. 

The  buyers  were  an  extraordinary-looking  set,  and  in  no 
other  part  of  the  world  would  their  word  have  been  taken 
for  a  cent. 

I  mounted  a  high  stand,  and  with  hammer  in  hand  com- 
menced. I  am  not  going  to  laud  my  performances  in  the 
auctioneering  line — my  well-known  natural  modesty  would 
prevent  it,  if  nothing  else  would ;  but  it  was  patent  in  Sa- 
cramento and  in  San  Francisco,  that  at  any  rate  I  kept  my 
customers  or  buyers  in  good  humor,  generally  winding  up 
my  sales  by  an  imitation  of  the  celebrated  razor-strop  man, 
Mr.  John  Smith  (now  of  the  Bowery). 

Upon  the  present  occasion  I  had  rattled  through  an  innu- 
merable quantity  of  articles  varied  and  strange.  The  audi- 
ence had  certainly  got  stuck  with  molasses,  filled  with 
sausages,  iva<med\xii\\  tea  and  coffee,  sweetened  with  sugar, 
and  tight  with  gin  and  brandy.  I  then  came  to  the  flour, 
of  which  there  were  some  three  hundred  sacks. 

I  was  to  put  them  up  in  lots  of  ten,  with  the  privilege  of 
the  whole.  I  was  directed  to  get,  if  possible,  the  cost,  eleven 
dollars  and  a  quarter  for  a  hundred-pound  sack,  and  not  to 
let  it  go  under  ten.  Now  it  was  thought  that  flour  would 
"  go  up"  to  a  very  high  figure ;  there  was  very  little  in  the 
market,  and  many  in  that  crowd  would  have  liked  to  be  the 
owners  of  the  whole. 

"Now  then,  gentlemen,  we  come  'on  to'  the  flour.     I 

shall  put  it  up  in  lots  of  five  sacks,  with  the  privilege,  &c. 

You  are  all  aware  of  the  present  scarcity  of  this  article — the 

staff  of  life,'  gentlemen,  as  the  Psalmist,  I  believe,  calls  it. 


Drifting  About.  129 

Gentlemen,  it's  a  solemn  fact  that  'flour's  rising.'  Yes, 
gentlemen,  before  thirty  clays  are  over  our  heads,  loaves 
(without  even  fishes)  will  be  selling  at  a  dollar  apiece, 
(/paid  fifty  cents  this  morning,  gentlemen,  for  a  half-quar- 
tern !)  You  can't  eat  your  gold  dust,  gentlemen.  You  mast 
have  flour.  So  what's  offered  for  the  first  sack  of  a  hun- 
dred pounds "?  Give  me  a  bid,  if  you  please.  (Five  dollars 
was  offered.)  Five,  five,  five,  five,  five,  five,  five,  five — 
half,  half,  half,  half,  half, — narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf, 
narf.  Gentlemen,  this  will  never  do.  Six,  six,  six,  six, 
six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six,  six, — cutter, 
cutter,  cutter, — narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf,  narf, 
narf, — seven,  seven,  seven,  seven,  seven,  seven,  seven,  seven, 
seven,  seven,  seven,  seven,  seven.  I  cannot  throw  it  away 
at  this  figure.     Say  eight.     Eight  I  got." 

"Nine,"  shouted  another,  and  "narf,  narf,  narf,  narf, — 
cutter,  cutter,  cutter,  cutter,  cutter." 

"  Ten,"  called  out  an  old  cock,  who  insisted  on  my  knock- 
ing him  down ;  adding  that  he  didn't  wish  to  be  kept  all 
day. 

Now  I  was  determined,  if  possible,  to  get,  at  any  rate  for 
one  lot,  the  specified  figure  (one  and  a  quarter),  and  I  went 
on,  regardless  of  the  suggestions  or  advices  of  the  crowd ; 
and  though  it  was  pretty  hard  work,  and  what  with  the 
heat  inside  and  the  tedious  nature  of  the  sale,  there  being 
an  immense  amount  of  goods  yet  unsold,  I  was  glad  to  get 
the  first  lot  off, — by  dint  of  great  persuasion,  and  an  extra 
amount  of  "gas,"  (an  auctioneer's  undoubted  prerogative,) 
I  managed  to  get  up  to  the  wished-for  figure  of  "  eleven 
dollars  and  a  quarter"  for  a  one-hundred  pound  sack.  This 
was  a  big  draw  on  my  lungs,  and  with  the  perspiration 
streaming  from  every  pore,  I  inquired,  "  How  many  will 
you  take,  sir?"  fully  believing  I  had  again  to  go  through 
the  same  rigmarole  of  flowery  language  for  the  balance  of 
the  lot, — when,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  and  indeed  to 
the  surprise  of  everybody,  the  man  called  out,  "  I'll  take 
the  lot!"  J 

I  looked  at  my  man,  who  resembled  more  an  escaped 
convict  than  a  purchaser  of  anything.  I  looked  at  my 
partner,  Charles  B.  (who  was*  shaking  from  head  to  foot 
with  the  chills  and  fever),  who  nodded  that  it  was  all  right; 

6* 


130  Drifting  About. 

when  I,  asking  the  name  of  the  buyer,  he  replied,  "Wolfe." 
I  thought  it  was  somewhat  significant.  I  found  out  after- 
wards that  he  was  the  owner  of  the  "  City  Bakery,"  had 
foreseen  that  flour  would  very  soon  be  in  great  demand, 
and  had  bought  up  all  he  could.  In  connexion  with  this 
purchase,  I  will  simply  state  that  he  realized,  in  less  than 
three  months,  $10,000  from  this  investment,  with  which  he 
returned  to  his  home  in  the  (y)East. 

Two  other  incidents  connected  with  this  somewhat  re- 
markable sale,  I  will  briefly  mention. 

There  were  some  four  hundred  pairs  of  high  boots,  rus- 
sian  leather,  that  I  knocked  down  to  a  man  at  four  dollars 
a  pair.  In  less  than  two  months  (the  heavy  rains  having 
set  in),  he  retailed  them  at  one  and  two  ounces  ($16  and 
$32)  per  pair,  making  more  than  $10,000  by  his  spe- 
culation. 

I  wound  up  the  day's  work  by  selling  a  live  pig  for  $65. 
The  animal  was  a  fine  English  porker,  and  extremely 
vicious ;  a  stout  cord  was  attached  to  his  leg,  and  it  was 
with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  could  keep  him  in  a 
steady  position.  He  evidently  felt  and  appreciated  the 
hornets'  nest  he  had  got  into ;  for  as  I  was  suggesting  to 
my  delighted  audience  that  for  the  ridiculously  small  price 
at  which  I  was  instructed  by  my  employees  to  allow  the 

Eig  to  "  slide,"  their  memories  of  the  old  homestead  might 
e  refreshed  and  their  hearts  made  glad  by  the  delicious 
fragrance  of  a  roast  leg  of  pork  with  sage  and  onions !  the 

Eig,  with  a  w-heeeeeeeekk  wwekkkkee,  gave  a  start, 
reaking  the  string,  knocking  down  one  or  two  of  the 
crowd,  and  upsetting  me  in  the  bargain.  He  was  retaken, 
and  purchased,  I  believe,  by  the  Baptist  minister,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  C.,  who  was  at  that  time  the  only  professed  butcher  the 
city  could  boast  of.  This  pig  (whether  male  or  female  I 
have  forgotten)  was  Utter-ally  the  nucleus  of  his  (the  par- 
son's) fortune ;  for  having  introduced  it  to  one  of  the  oppo- 
site gender,  the  consequence  was,  in  the  proper  course  of 
time,  a  large  yield  of  juvenile  porkies  that  realized  for  him 
an  unheard-of  price.  And  he  often  told  me  that  the  pur- 
chase of  the  Sutter's  Fort  pig  was  the  first  streak  of  fat  luck 
he  had  received.  His  store  on  I  street  wTas  frequently 
visited  by  me  for  a  beef  steak  or  chop,  or  a  nice  fresh  sal- 


Drifting  About.  131 

mon,  for  he  was  a  fishmonger  also ;  and  though  he  was  very 
assiduous  in  killing  and  cutting  all  the  week,  he  reserved 
Sunday  for  the  saving  and  curing  of  souls  ! 

The  amount  of  this  day's  sales  was  $15,000 ;  our  com- 
mission was  ten  per  cent.,  making  a  profit  of  $1,500  for  the 
firm  of  Massett  and  Brewster.  This,  for  a  five  hours'  job, 
was  pretty  well. 

I  usually  wound  up  my  sale  of  each  article  with  the 
words  (after  "  once,  twice,  three  times,")  "  Spizeruktum 
bang;"  and  for  a  long  time  I  was  known  by  no  other 
name. 

I  officiated  as  auctioneer  in  several  very  large  sales  of 
real  estate,  in  and  out  of  the  city.  In  those  days  the  firm 
of  "Priest,  Lee,  k  Co.,"  were  the  great  land-owners,  bank- 
ers, and  merchants.  They  were  our  landlords,  and  conse-  ' 
quently  I  was  always  the  auctioneer  selected  by  them 
whenever  they  put  any  of  their  city  lots  "  into  the  market." 
Money  was  fairly  pouring  in  upon  us.  We  purchased  real 
estate,  and  began  to  look  upon  ourselves  as  belonging  to 
the  "  heavy  men"  of  this  new  and  flourishing  city. 

A  proposition  was  about  this  time  started  to  form  an 
Episcopal  church,  and  I  was  invited  to  be  one  of  the 
"  wardens,"  and  I  began  to  fancy  how  my  name  would 
look,  a  hundred  years  from  thence,  on  the  tablet  over  the 
church-door  "Toney  Hoope,"  the  facetious  "Baron  Vaux," 
was  another  "  warden,"  and  went  to  church  regularly. 
Speculations  in  land  about  this  time  were  at  fever-heat — 
whole  cities  were  frequently  sold  by  me  before  dinner- 
time, and  this  was  the  style : 

A  man  would  buy  a  tract  of  land  or  a  "  rancho"  for  per- 
haps $1000  or  so — he  would  then  have  it  staked  out  or 
cut  up  into  "  lots,"  call  it  a  city — get  some  draughtsmen  to 
make  beautiful  and  gaudy  maps  thereof,  insist  that  it  was 
either  the  "  head  of  navigation,"  or  the  nearest  route  to 
the  best  diggings — unsurpassed  for  agricultural  purposes, 
and  so  on. 

One  instance  I  well  remember — the  place  was  called 
"  Butte  City,"  I  believe  the  original  cost  was  $1000.  I  was 
directed  to  sell  as  many  lots  as  I  possibly  could  at  that 
figure  per  lot,  and  I  think  the  embryo  city  yielded  the  for- 
tunate speculator  about  $20,000 — the  reader  need  not  be 


132  Drifting  About. 

informed  that  the  place  was  then,  is  now,  and  ever  will  be, 
a  barren  waste — world  without  end — amen  ! 

Upon  another  occasion  I  was  requested  to  sell  "  several 
hundred  head  of  wild  cattle,"  in  "  bands"  of  forty  each — 
this  was  a  somewhat  novel  proceeding — but  having  stated 
to  my  audience,  as  clearly  as  I  could,  the  conditions  of 
sale,  and  that  the  animals  were  roaming  at  large,  and  had 
to  be  caught  by  the  purchasers,  they  commenced  to  bid.  I 
was  told  to  get  ten  dollars  a  head — the  sale  lasted  about 
half  an  hour — and  our  commissions  were  over  $500. 


XXX. 

A  JOLLY  DINNER. 

The  interior  of  our  little  store  was  at  times  certainly  a 
"  curiosity,"  for  be  it  known  to  thee,  my  gentle  reader, 
that  the  firm  of  Massett  and  Brewster  did  their  own  cook- 
ing, made  their  own  beds — fetched  their  own  water — swept 
their  own  store — and  indeed  officiated  generally. 

We  had  bought  a  little  stove,  and  for  it  we  had  paid 
seventy -five  dollars  (it  could  be  bought  to-day  for  two 
dollars  and  fifty  cents),  had  furnished  ourselves  with  some 
crockery,  the  remains  of  a  sale  we  had  made  of  several 
crates  thereof  (an  auctioneer's  perquisites),  and  I  determined 
to  give  a  "  blow-out"  to  one  or  two  old  New  York  friends. 
Tone  Bleecker,  if  he  ever  reads  these  lines,  will  remember 
the  occasion.  The  rain  was  coming  down  in  torrents — the 
first  rain  of  the  season,  and  our  shanty  not  being  water- 
proof, commenced  to  leak, — this  very  much  interfering 
with  our  cooking  operations. 

I  had  sallied  out  to  purchase  two  or  three  cans  of  pre- 
served chicken,  for  this  I  paid  four  dollars  a  can — a  pound 
of  onions  cost  one  dollar,  and  potatoes  the  same  amount ; 
two  loaves  of  bread  one  dollar ;  four  bottles  of  porter,  two 

dollars  each,  ($8.)     (Though  our  friend,  Elijah  W did 

prig  a  couple  from  W.  M 's  store  next  door,  and  like  a 

good  fellow,  handed  it  to  me  "  over  the  wall !")  and  a  lot 
of  cigars  at  fifty  cents  apiece. 


Drifting  About.  133 

A  fire  was  quickly  built — the  contents  of  the  cans 
emptied  into  a  bran  new  saucepan — the  onions  peeled,  and 
potatoes  washed  and  cut  in  slices — well  peppered  and 
salted — and  /  acting  as  cook — sat  eagerly  watching  the 
simmering  and  boiling  thereof.  I  had  almost  forgot  to 
mention  that  I  had  cut  across  the  street  to  my  friend,  the 

Kev.  Mr.  C ,  the  Baptist  minister,  who  looked  after  the 

sheep — and  coaxed  him  out  of  a  small  piece  of  English 
bacon,  which  I  duly  cut  into  slices  to  give  our  stew  a 
"  flavor."     I  had  likewise  found  out  on  the  shelf  of  my 
friend's  store   next  door,  some   preserved  parsley ! — this 
succulent  and  juicy  concoction  was  immediately  sprinkled 
with  the  fragrant  herb — and  the  aroma  rising  from  the 
home-made  dish,  not  only  tickled  the  olfactories  of  every 
one  present,  but  called  forth  the  remark  from  my  amiable 
partner,  that  I  had  evidently  mistaken  my  vocati<#— -  for 
that  as  a  "cook,"  I  should  certainly  make  a  sensation. 
Every  now  and  then  I  would  lift  up  the  lid  of  the  sauce- 
pan, and  give  the  contents  a  good  stir,   with  a  large  tin 
spoon,    used    generally   in    ladling  our  gold-dust,  —  in 
answer  to  the  bubbling,  seething,  and  rumbling  sound  of 
the  precious  mixture,  as  if  in  a  stew  to  be  taken  off,  a  fork 
was  inserted  into  the  potatoes,  and  they  were  pronounced 
"  done," — flakes  of  chicken,  that  had  left  the  bones  in  dis- 
gust, jostled  by  slices  of  onion,  swam  about  in  as  rich,  fine, 
and  well  seasoned  a  sea  of  broth,  as  ever  tempted  the  palate 
of  a  London  alderman,   at  a  Lord  Mayor's  dinner.     The 
covers  removed,  the  steam  rose  in  clouds,  and  the  contents 
were  emptied  into  a  large  wooden  bowl,  which  had  seen 
good  service,  and  we  sat  down  to  do  justice  to  the  "  dish." 
Did  anything  ever  taste  quite  as  nice  as  that  chicken-stew  ? 
I  think  not— and  then  washed  down  by  the  real  old  genuine 
"brown    stout," — the    rain  was    pouring  down   outside, 
making  it  all  the  cozier  within — but  what  with  the  heat 
from  the  stove,  the  smallness  of  the  apartment,  and  the  ex- 
citement of  eating  and  drinking,  and  the  want  of  ventilaion, 
the  place  was  insufferably  warm.     Some  one  suggested  that 
we  should  open  the  door — at  this  moment,  a  gust  of  wind 
gave  us  a  look-in,  and  in  the  eagerness  of  its  congratula- 
tions, and  in  a  very  unceremonious  manner,  with  one  puff, 
upset  our  rickety  table,  with  its  entire  contents,  of  dishes, 


134  Drifting  About. 

plates,  pans,  and  the  remains  of  the  "  soup,"  porter,  etc. — 
A  general  stampede  occurred  somewhat  similar  to  the 
banqueting  scene  when  Lady  Macbeth,  seeing  the  shaky- 
ness  of  her  lord  and  master,  requests  her  "  guests"  to  cut 

and  run — and  the  last  I  saw  of  Tony  B was  the  end 

of  his  coat-tail,  he  flying  before  the  wind  chasing  his  som- 
brero, which  had  left  his  head  in  a  hurry  on  gaining  the 
street.  Upon  being  left  alone,  we  cleared  up  matters  and 
things  as  well  as  possible,  and  prepared  our  sleeping  appa- 
ratus. I  had  a  "  hammock"  hung  for  an  occasional  visitor 
— I  sleeping  on  the  "  counter,"  and  immediately  under* 
neath  the  aforesaid   "  hammock."     An  old  Boston  friend, 

Steve  T ,  was  the  occupant  of  the  last  mentioned  article; 

and  he  had  just  succeeded,  after  innumerable  g}rmnastic 
efforts,  and  sundry  jerkings  and  pullings,  to  get  inside  of  it 
— wlttui  the  rocking  consequent  upon  its  occupancy,  and 
the  frequent  potations  and  imbibitions  of  varieties  of 
liquor,  acted  as  a  delightful  narcotic,  and  a  prolonged  but 
not  at  all  soft  or  euphonous  snore  gave  token  that  he 
was  revelling  in  the  land  of  dreams.  Now,  however  sooth- 
ing and  delightful  to  the  sleeper  this  nasal  accomplishment 
may  be ;  it  is  not  at  all  appreciated  by  those  who  are  "  wide 
awake," — accordingly,  I  administered  a  gentle  kick  in  the 
region  of  the  back,  that  not  only  had  the  effect  of  stopping 
the  noise,  but  of  bringing  him  and  the  hammock  right  on 
the  top  of  me ! — having  first  been  well  saturated  with 
water,  doubtless  from  the  leakiness  of  the  roof.  This 
came  with  a  heavy  weight  upon  me,  my  friend's  "  heft" 
being  over  200  pounds — and  I  hardly  know  which  of  us 
was  the  most  astonished  or  hurt. 

It  had  the  effect,  however,  of  restoring  him  to  conscious- 
ness and  sobriety,  and  after  having  a  hearty  laugh  over  the 
adventures  of  the  day  and  night,  we  composed  ourselves 
again  to  sleep. 

The  flourishing  condition  of  the  firm  of  M.  and  B.  was 
such  that  we  determined  to  make  the  purchase  of  the  lot 
we  then  occupied.  Its  dimensions  were  twenty  by  eighty, 
and  the  price  $5,000.  The  deeds  were  drawn — the  money 
paid — and  we  went  on  swimmingly — as  the  saying  is — and 
the  reader  shall  know  in  a  very  short  time  the  applicability 
of  this  italicised  word. 


Drifting  About.  135 


XXXI. 

THE  FIRST  THEATRICAL  REPRESENTATION  IN  SACRAMENTO. 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1849,  the  first  theatrical 
representation  took  place  in  this  city,  at  what  was  then 
called  the  Eagle  Theatre  on  J  street.  It  was  a  frame  build- 
ing covered  with  canvas,  and  though  only  composed  of  this 
slight  material,  it  cost  over  $30,000,  lumber  being  at  that 
time  over  $500  a  thousand  feet.  The  prices  were  five 
dollars  to  the  boxes,  and  three  dollars  to  the  pit. 

On  the  opening  night,  which  I  shall  not  easily  forget, 
having  returned  from  a  lengthened  stroll  in  and  around 
about  Sutter's  Fort  with  Mr.  Bayard  Taylor,  I  proceeded 
in  his  company  to  the  pasteboard  Temple  of  the  Muses. 

It  had  been  raining  hard,  and  blowing  a  gale  of  wind 
the  whole  day,  and  the  strength  and  durability  of  the  build- 
ing had  been  sorely  tried ;  however,  as  the  hour  drew  near 
for  the  opening  of  the  doors,  crowds  of  anxious  miners 
thronged  the  entrance,  and  despite  the  winds  and  torrents 
of  rain,  the  place  was  immediately  filled.  By  the  time  we 
arrived  we  found  that,  those  who  were  fortunate  enough  to 
have  secured  "  pit  tickets,"  had  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  a 
"fresh  water  bath"  for  the  same  money  (a  luxury  unknown 
almost  in  those  days,  as  people  rarely  washed  themselves), 
for  by  that  time  the  water  was  on  a  level  with  the  seats ; 
bnt  the  theatrical  fire  raged  entirely  too  high  to  be  put 
out  by  any  such  hydraulic  arrangement  as  this,  and  accord- 
ingly the  curtain  rose  at  the  conclusion  of  the  overture  to 
the  "  Bronze  Horse" — the  orchestra  consisting  of  the  fiddle 
— a  very  cheezy  flageolet,  played  by  a  gentleman  with  one 
eye — a  big  drum,  and  a  triangle,  that  served  the  double 
purpose  of  ringing  in  the  boarders  to  their  meals  at  the 
restaurant  next  door.  The  play  was  the  "  Bandit  Ghief  " 
or  "  Forest  Spectre,"  in  which,  as  the  bills  said,  the  cele- 
brated female  Tragedian  Mrs.  R- ,  from  the  Theatre 

Royal,  New  Zealand,  would  make  her  first  appearance  in 
California  as  the  heroine.  For  this  performance  she  re- 
ceived about  one  hundred  and   fifty  dollars  per  night — ■ 


136  Drifting  About. 

and  to  give  some  idea  of  the  classical  style  of  the  lady's 

Eronunciation  she  replied,  upon  the  question  being  asked 
er  if  she  would  accept  the  hand  of  the  bandit  chief: 
"  Is  art  is  as  ard  as  a  stone — and  I'd  rayther  take  a 
basilisk,  and  rap  is  cold  fangs  areound  me — than  surrender 
meself  to  the  cold  himbraces  of  a  artless  willain  !" 

The  bills  announced  that  the  performance  would  con- 
clude with  the  thrilling  and  affecting  Tragedy  of  "  Douglas," 
the  part  of  "  Norval"  by  a  gentleman  who  had  been  unfor- 
tunate at  the  diggings,  and  had  only  recently  found  out  the 
proper  channel  in  which  to  display  his  genius.  He  deli- 
vered the  celebrated  speech 

"MY  NAME  IS  NORVAL," 

assisted  audibly  by  the  prompter,  in  the  following  strange 
manner,  amid  the  shoutings,  and  roars  of  laughter  of  the 
entire  house. 

"  My  name  is  Norval — on  the  Grampian  hills, 
My  father  feeds  his  flocks  a  frugal  swan — 

Prompter.     Swain  you  booby. 

Swain  you  booby,  whose  constant  care  was 
To  increase  his  shop — 

Prompter.     Store — Sir —  What  are  you  doing  ? 

"  Store  sir,  what  are  you  doing — and  keep  his  only  son  myself  at 
home — 
For  I  had  heard  of  battles,  and  I  longed 
To  follow  to  the  fields  some  warlike  lord — 
And  heaven  soon  granted,  what  my  sire  desired — 

Prompter.     Denied  yer  booby  f 

Denied  you  booby — you  moon  which  rose 
Last  night — round  as  a  cheese — 
Prompter.     Shield  you  stupid  ass  ! 

Shield  you  stupid  ass !  had  not  yet  taken  a  horn — 
Prompter.     Filled  her  horn — you  darned  fool — 

Filled  her  horn,  you  darned  fool,  when 
By  its  light  a  band  of  fierce  barbers — 

Prompter.     Barbarians,  you  fool — 


Drifting  About.  137 

Barbarians  you  fool — rushed  like  a 

Torrent  down  upon  the  hills, 

Sweepin  our  flocks  and  hers — 
Prompter — Herds — sir  not  hers — 

Herds,  sir,  I  said — I  alone  with  bended 
Bow,  and  quivering  full  of  arrows — 
Prompter.     Quiver,  sir — 

Quiver  sir — I  said — hovered  about  the  enemy,  and  marked  with  a 
lead-pencil. 

Prompter.     Marked  the  road — you  booby — 

Marked  the  road  you  booby — he  took 

Whom  with  a  troop  of  fifty  chosen  men  I  met  advancing — 
The  pursuit  we  led,  till  we  o'ertook  the  spoiled  cucumbers — 

Prompter.    Spoil-encumbered  foe,  you  stupid 


Spoil  encumbered  foe,  I  meant  you  stupid  ass — and  having  heard 
That  our  brave  king  had  summoned  his  bold  pears  and  apples — 

Prompter.    Peers !  you  fool — 

Peers  you  fool — to  meet  their  warriors  at  the  common — 
Prompter.     Carron  side — 

Carron  side — I  left  my  father's  house, 
And  took  with  me  a  maid-servant — 
Prompter.     A  chosen  servant,  you  fool ! 

A  chosen  servant  you  fool — to  conduct  my  steps — 
You  trembling  cow — cow — cow — 

Prompter.     Coward,  you  booby — 

Coward  you  booby,  who  forsook  his  master — 
Returning  home  in  a  charioli^- 

Prompter.    In  triumph  sir — 

In  triumph  sir — I  disdained  the  shepherd's  slothful  wife — 
Prompter.     Life  sir — 

Life  sir — and  heaven  directed,  came  to — to — to — to — to — to — 
'  Prompter.     Make  a  darned  fool  of  yourself,  booby ! 

Make  a  darned  fool  of  myself  booby,  and  do  the  happv  deed  which 
gilds  my  humble  nam&l 


138  Drifting  About. 

xxxir. 

THE    FLOOD   OF   1849   AND   '50. 

This  will  be  well  remembered  by  all  the  old  residents 
of  Sacramento. 

It  had  been  raining  fearfully  for  many  days,  and  the 
Sacramento  river  was  rapidly  rising ;  the  lower  portion  of 
the  city  was  entirely  under  water,  and  our  store  had  about 
two  feet  "  in  the  hold."  The  utmost  consternation  pre- 
vailed ;  and  towards  nightfall  a  perfect  panic  had  seized  the 
citizens,  and  naught  appeared  visible  but  the  tops  of  the 
houses,  with  a  swarm  of  human  beings  on  the  roofs. 

Luckily,  at  the  Levee  there  were  moored  some  ships, 
barks,  and  schooners,  that  had  been  emptied  of  their  car- 
goes and  passengers ;  to  these  the  women  first  were  carried 
in  boats  and  rafts,  and  indeed  every  imaginable  conveyance 
was  resorted  to.  J  street  was  one  mass  of  water — no  speck 
of  land  was  anywhere  visible.  We  had  vacated  our  store 
long  since  in  boats,  and  I  had  the  felicity  of  seeing  a  trunk 
full  of  new  shirts,  recently  received  from  New  York,  float- 
ing down  the  stream,  together  with  numberless  other  mova- 
bles. I  and  one  or  two  others,  having  by  hook  or  by  crook 
got  hold  of  a  boat,  it  was  suggested  that  we  should  pull  up 
in  the  vicinity  of  Dr.  W.'s,  situated  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
city,  having  ascertained  that  the  ladies  of  the  household 
were  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  the  elements,  and  unable  to 
leave  their  "ocean-bound"  residence. 

Arriving  there,  we  found  the  house  deserted,  our  boat 
walking  straight  into  the  drawing-room,  and  coming  bump 
up  against  the  legs  of  the  piano  (the  water  touching  the 
keys  thereof),  when,  to  my  astonishment,  I  found  several 
of  my  songs  floating  on  the  top,  and  one  in  particular  I 
thought  was  now  in  its  proper  element — that  was,  "  When 
the  Moon  on  the  Lake  is  beaming." 

Away  again  down  J  street,  bump  we  went  against  the 
stump  of  a  tree — then  slap  into  a  boat — both  upset — got  a 
duck  in  consequence,  which  we  duly  cooked ;  for,  strange 
as  it  ma^se^m^aiid  scarce  as  every  kind  of  fowl  was  in 

((   UNIVERSITY    )) 


Drifting  About.  139 

those  days,  a  solitary  duck,  in  the  style  of  "  James's  horse- 
man," was  taking  a  stroll  down  the  street,  when  he  was 
thus  taken  by  storm.  Whole  families  were  passing  on  rails 
— others  on  the  back  of  a  cow ;  and  although  everybody 
appeared  to  think  that  a  second  edition  of  the  Deluge  had 
arrived,  and  a  Noah's  ark  the  thing  to  erect,  yet  everybody 
seemed  jolly,  and  thought  it  a  good  joke. 

Some  of  my  friends  proposed  to  me  to  give  a  concert  on 
the  water,  and  talked  of  Handel's  water  music ;  but  I  was 
compelled  to  refuse  them,  after  many  vain  attempts  to 
anchor  a  boat  alongside  the  key -board  of  one  of  Waters's 
pianos. 


The  scene  at  night  time  was  truly  exciting. 

The  full  moon,  like  a  big  ball  of  molten  silver,  shone  forth 
with  an  unusual  brilliancy  from  its  home  in  the  heavens, 
surrounded  by  its  twinkling  and  glittering  companions,  the 
stars.  *«0ne  vast  sheet  of  water  lay  beneath,  reflecting  the 
bright  flashings  of  the  jewelled  firmament;  and,  excepting 
here  and  there  a  faint  light  from  the  house  tops  or  from  the 


140  Drifting  About. 

masts  of  the  shipping  in  the  river,  there  was  no  sign  of  life 
or  humanity !  It  was  a  repetition  of  the  first  flood,  sure. 
Patches  of  feathery  clouds,  fanned  by  a  stiff  breeze,  sailed 
to  and  fro  in  the  sky;  and  the. leafless  branches  of  the  big 
trees,  with  their  bare  and  uplifted  arms,  shook  with  the 
north  wind's  piping. 

Morning  came,  and  from  my  little  window  in  the  cock- 
loft of  the  French  Hotel,  the  room  of  which  I  had  reached 
by  the  aid  of  a  boat  and  a  big  ladder,  the  scene  was  equally 
exciting,  and  even  comical.  Merchandise  of  every  variety 
and  description  was  "  afloat ;"  rafts  and  boats,  filled  with 
property,  and  swarming  with  live  freight,  filled  the  streets ; 
those  persons  who  were  lucky  enough  to  own  a  house,  lived 
and  slept  on  the  roof — cooked  on  the  roof — made  calls  on 
the  roof — drank  on  the  roof — prayed  on  the  roof — laughed 
and  joked  on  the  roof — sang  on  the  roof — took  a  bath  on 
the  roof — cursed  the  gold  fields  on  the  roof — wished  they 
were  back  in  New  York  on  the  roof — got  married  on  the 
roof — went  to  church  on  the  roof — wrote  letters  on  the  roof 
— and  thought  they'd  never  get  off  the  roof. 

But  they  did! — and  sueh  a  stampede  was  never  seen. 
Property  went  up  as  the  men  and  women  got  down — and 
the  waters  fell ;  and  to  show  the  insanity  that  possessed 
everybody,  myself  among  the  number,  at  this  period,  at  a 
sale  of  real  estate  by  Col.  J.  B.  Starr,  I  bought  a  piece  of 
land,  covered  by  one  foot  of  water,  for  which  I  paid  $1000  in 
gold  dust,  and  which  I  subsequently  parted  with  for  thirty 
dollars  /  # 

The  waters  of  the  Sacramento  river  fell  gradually  lower 
and  lower,  and  in  a  few  days  terra  firma  was  again  visible. 
The  flood,  however,  had  given  me  a  general  disgust  for  the 
place,  and  I  accordingly  made  up  my  mind  to  "locate" 
myself  in  San  Francisco. 

Accordingly,  the  firm  of  Massett  and  Brewster  was  dis- 
solved (as  the  papers  always  announce)  by  mutual  consent. 
And  here  let  me  pay  a  passing  tribute  to  my  valued  and 
respected  friend  ;  for  a  more  honorable  man  and  delightful 
companion,  I  have  not  met  with  in  my  wanderings ;  and  I 
am  happy  likewise,  en  passant,  to  mention,  that  he  is  not 
only  a  flourishing  merchant  in  the  City  of  Brotherly  Love, 
but  (very  unlike  his  original  partner)  a  happy  Benedict, 


Drifting  About.  141 

with  a  whole  lot  of  little  fledglings.     Long  may  they 
wave! 

I  had  taken  a  lease  of  a  store  on  Jackson  street,  owned  by 
Lewis  &  Co.,  and  very  shortly  afterwards  the  citizens  of  San 
Francisco  were  startled  with  the  ringing  of  a  big  bell,  and 
the  walls  covered  with  bills,  announcing  the  fact  that  I  was 
about  to  sell  some  real  estate  on  the  public  plaza. 

It  was  in  this  year  that  the  celebrated  pianist  and  com- 
poser, Henri  Herz,  visited  California,  arriving  hither  from 
Mexico,  where  he  had,  it  was  reported,  realized  fabulous 
sums  of  money.  His  concerts  in  San  Francisco  were 
crowded ;  and  upon  his  trip  to  Sacramento,  I  happening  to 
be  upon  the  same  steamer,  and  having  met  him  previously 
in  New  York  at  our  old  friend  Adam  Stodart's,  he  proposed 
that  I  should  sing  for  him,  and  asked  me  what  my  "  terms" 
were. 

Now  I  had  given  the  first  concert  entirely  by  myself  in 
this  golden  land,  and  one  or  two  others  besides,  and  gene-' 
rally  pocketed  four  or  five  hundred  dollars  a  night ;  and  so 
I  asked  my  friend  from  Paris  five  hundred  pesos.  He  stared 
aghast,  and  said,  he  couldn't  stand  it ;  but,  however,  at  the 
solicitation  of  my  friend  Mr.  F.  C.  Ewer,  (now  the  Eev. 
F.  C.  Ewer,  of  this  city,)  the  then  editor  of  the  Sacramento 
Transcript,  I  "  concluded"  to  sing  for  two  hundred  dollars 
a  night.  (Pretty  good  pay  now,  I  think.)  The  -price  of 
tickets  was  seven  dollars  and  four  dollars,  and  the  house,  at 
that,  was  crowded. 

A  funny  incident  occurred  at  Herz's  concert,  that  was 
greatly  enjoyed  by  the  pianist  and  the  audience  also. 

In  obedience  to  an  encore  in  one  of  my  songs  I  was 
requested  to  give  the  comic  recitation  of  the  "  Frenchman 
and  the  Rats." 

A  somewhat  laughable  little  sketch  illustrating  the  diffi- 
culties of  a  Frenchman  in  his  peregrinations  in  an  English 
country  town,  and  his  being  aroused  from  his  slumbers  by 
the  visit  of  a  big  rat  gnawing  at  a  piece  of  cheese  that  he 
had  placed  under  his  pillow-case. 

When  I  had  arrived  at  this  point  in  the  anecdote — two 
rats  with  very  long  tails  ran  right  across  the  stage,  and  a 
general  scrambling  of  the  same  animal  was  heard  on  the 
"  cotton"  ceiling.    A  roar  of  laughter  arose  from  the  audi- 


142  Drifting  About. 

ence — Herz  being  quite  convulsed,  and  certainly  up  to 
that  time  I  had  never  given  this  much  abused  animal  credit 
for  possessing  such  powers  of  ratiocination ! 

A  few  nights  after  this,  having  been  promised  the  assist- 
ance of  a  well  known,  and  delightfully  genial  and  jolly 
fellow — Johnny  Nichols,  one  of  the  then  "merchant  princes^ 
of  this  fast  growing  and  flourishing  city,  I  got  out  my  pro- 
gramme. Coming  immediately  after  this  well  known  cele- 
brity, I  felt  it  was  a  little  "  risky,"  but  then  I  thought  the 
additional  attraction  of  my  friend  u  Johnny,"  as  we  all  called 
him,  would  certainly  draw  a  large  crowd. 

This  was  my  first  essay  in  Sacramento,  and  I  was  cer- 
tainly anxious  that  it  should  "  go  off"  with  eclat.  Now, 
my  friend,  though  he  iiad  often  in  private  delighted  the 
ears  of  his  listeners  by  his  dulcet  tones  and  refined  taste  in 
singing  a  ballad,  and  often  amused  us  by  a  peculiarly 
appreciative  expression  of  his  face,  with  his  head  thrown 
back,  a  gentle  swaying  to  and  fro  of  the  body,  and  a  ner- 
vous twitching  of  the  thumb  and  finger — though,  I  say,  often 

on  the  classic  ground  of  K street,  where  the  "  Salem" 

boys  would  congregate,  and  peddle  to  the  delighted  miners 
picks  at  six  dollars  each,  cans  of  preserved  oysters  for  the 
same  price,  and  other  articles  in  the  same  proportion — though 
here  he  was  often  heard,  esteemed,  and  duly  appreciated — 
he  had  not  "  as  yet"  faced  an  audience  in  public. 

We  had  a  rehearsal — and  I  remember  it  well — the  song 
"  Give  me  a  Cot"  was  his  happiest  effort,  and  though  there 
were  only  half  a  dozen  deal  benches  in  the  room,  without 
any  sitters,  and  myself,  the  only  one  present,  he  said  he 
felt  his  heart  come  up  in  his  mouth  or  his  mouth  in  his 
heart,  I  forget  which,  and  had  the  most  horrible  forebodings 
as  to  the  result  of  the  evening.  He  offered  me  any  money 
to  let  him  off,  but  I  wouldn't  consent,  his  name  was  in  the 
bills,  and  I  was  responsible  for  the  performance  taking 
place  as  per  advertisements. 

He  explained  to  me  that  he  had  eaten  nothing  for  a 
week,  in  simply  anticipating  the  dread  event,  that  the  bare 
thought  of  this  being  the  fatal  night  made  him  deathly 
sick,  that  hanging  would  even  be  a  luxury,  and  that  it  was 
impossible  to  sing  upon  an  empty  stomach  ! 

I  obduratelv  refused  to  excuse  him,  insinuating  that  we 


Drifting  About.  143 

should  both  be  ruined  in  reputation,  looked  upon  as 
swindlers,  and  probably  placed  on  board  the  "  Prison 
Brig." 

He  replied  that  he  would  go  to  his  store,  lie  down,  try 
and  take  a  nap,  and  a  cocktail,  say  his  prayers,  and  be  at 
hand  at  half  past  seven — the  dread  hour  came,  eight  o'clock 
came,  and  no  "  Johnny,"and  no — "  nothing."  I  don't  know 
whether  any  of  my  readers  have  felt  the  peculiar  sen- 
sation experienced  sometimes  by  public  performers  in 
"  waiting  for  somebody  to  come  in ;"  if  they  have,  they 
will  sympathize  with  me  upon  this  occasion,  sitting  upon 

the  stump  of  a  big  tree  at  the  lower  end  of  M street  in 

a  drizzling  shower  of  rain,  underneath  a  Chinese  umbrella ! 
Darkness  reigned  supreme,  and  excepting  the  feeble  glim- 
mering of  a  very  dismal  and  sickly  looking  oil  lamp  over 
the  door  of  the  hall,  no  light  was  visible. 

In  the  dim  distance  a  speck  of  light  appeared,  small,  but 
brilliant  as  a  firefly,  nearer,  nearer,  nearer  it  came.  I  arose 
to  meet  it,  when  to  my  delight  I  found  it  was  my  com- 
panion in  difficulties,  "Johnny,"  with  a  big  roll  of  music,  a 
tin  can  full  of  strong  punch,  and  a  large  umbrella.  He 
gave  a  faint  smile  as  I  greeted  him,  and  when  in  answer  to 
his  inquiry  as  to  whether  the  hall  was  full,  I  answered 
him  that  I  believed  it  was,  but  felt  too  nervous  to  go 
and  see,  the  effect  upon  both  of  us  was  painfully 
visible. 

It  was  now  past  eight,  and  something  had  to  be  done.  I 
was  waited  upon  by  the  Mayor  of  the  city,  assisted  by 
Alderman  Queen,  and  one  of  the  Board  of  Supervisors, 
who  suggested  that  it  was  time  for  me  "to  open." 

I  would  readily  have  given  at  that  moment  all  I  possess- 
ed to  have  been  a  hundred  miles  from  the  place. 

I  was  informed  that  three  or  four  "lanterns"  had  just 
gone  up  stairs  accompanied  by  several  ladies,  and  that 
there  were  nearly  a  hundred  people  in  the  room ;  this,  con- 
sidering I  had  not  seen  a  living  soul,  was  a  pretty  good 
stroke  of  legerdemain. 

II  Johnny"  crept  slowly  up  the  stairs,  to  deposit  his  traps, 
and  prepare  for  the  event,  and  just  as  I  was  following  him 
with  a  palpitating  heart,  he  passed  by  me  at  double  quick 
time,  remarking  that  he  had  left  his  music  behind,  and 


144  Drifting  About. 

would  return  immediately.  I  think  the  next  time  I  saw 
my  friend,  was  in  Salem,  Massachusetts,  some  three  years 
afterwards. 

I  must  do  my  friend  the  justice,  however,  to  say,  that  he 

delegated  a  distinguished  pianist,  Mr.  George  P ,  now, 

I  believe,  one  of  the  most  successful  and  brilliant  perform- 
ers on  the  Pacific  coast,  to  play,  at  an  enormous  cost,  one 
of  his  compositions  on  the  piano,  which,  in  a  measure, 
appeased  the  ire  of  the  expecting  and  somewhat  disap- 
pointed audience. 

Now,  as  the  reader  will  perceive,  though  in  numbers  the 
"  crowd  "  was  decidedly  a  select  one,  the  figure  of  admission 
was  three  dollars  each,  and  the  consequence  was  I  was 
nearly  $300  in  hand  by  the  two  hours'  exertion. 


XXXIII. 

"  GOING— GOING — GONE  I"  TO  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

Upon  returning  to  San  Francisco  and  finding  business 
a  little  dull,  I  thought  I  would  i:ake  a  run  over  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  a  distance  of  some  eighteen  hundred 
or  two  thousand  miles,  I  think,  and  generally  accomplished 
in  from  ten  to  fourteen  days,  taking  the  "  trades"  with  us 
nearly  all  the  way. 

I  accordingly  took  passage  in  the  schooner  Emeline,  Cap- 
tain Howard  (of  New  London,  Conn.),  bound  for  Lahaina 
and  Honolulu. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  voyages  of  my  life,  was  this 
trip  to  the  Islands. 


Drifting  About.  145 


XXXIV. 


THE  WAY  THEY  CATCH  WHALES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Captain-  Howard,  of  the  schooner  Emeline,  was  a  first- 
rate  specimen  of  a  dry,  quaint,  good-natured,  deown-east 
skipper.  He  hailed,  I  believe,  from  New  London,  and 
though  in  his  earlier  years  he  had  been  "  a  wailing,"  he  had 
not  (to  use  his  own  expression)  seen  the  "  darned  thing 
speout"  for  many  a  long  day. 

It  was  a  lovely  evening  in  June,  and  the  bright  red  sun 
had  just  dipped  its  flaming  body  in  the  western  horizon, 
leaving  the  sky  one  sheet  of  the  most  dazzling  crimson, 
while  fleecy  clouds,  tipped  with  every  variety  of  gorgeous 
coloring,  followed  in  its  wake,  and  sailed  along  the  heavens 
— sapphire,  green,  purple,  orange,  blue,  and  yellow  commin- 
gled together  in  wondrous  harmony — making  a  sunset 
rarely  seen  in  other  than  the  Pacific  waters.  The  day  had 
been  intensely  hot,  and  a  deliciously  cool  three  or  four  knot 
breeze  was  carrying  us  to  our  destined  port,  and  I  and  the 
skipper  lounging  in  a  hammock  that  had  been  swung  for 
us  on  the  upper  deck. 

Turning  to  me  suddenly,  he  cried  out,  "  There  she 
blows !" 

"  Who's  she?"  saysl. 

"Why  the  whale,  of  course,"  says  he;  "don't  you  see 
that  thing  a  speouting  ?" 

I  looked,  and  saw  in  the  distance,  for  the  first  time  in  my 
life,  one  of  these  sea  monsters. 

"  Did  you  ever  hear  how  they  ketch  them  fellers  ?"  said 
the  skipper. 

I  confessed  my  entire  ignorance  of  the  modus  operandi, 
at  the  same  time  expressing  the  greatest  desire  to  be 
informed  of  the  method  by  one  who  had  been  in  the 
business. 

"  Wall,"  says  he,  first  giving  a  huge  plug  of  tobacco  a 
good  twist  in  his  mouth,  "  you  must  know  that  some  years 
ago  I  sailed  from  New  London  with  a  man  named  Capting 

7 


146 


Drifting  About. 


Bissum.  It  was  my  first  voyage,  and  I  often  hoped,  afore 
I  got  back,  it  would  be  my  last.  We'd  been  eout  abeout 
two  years  without  seeing  a  thing,  and  I'd  had  nuthing  to 
eat  but  salt  pork  and  hard  bread  full  o'  worms  and  uther 
animals,  and  had  broke'  several  teeth  in  trying  to  get  it 
through  my  head — when  all  of  a  sudden  the  man  at  the 
masthead  sung  out, 

"  '  Thar  she  blows  !' 

"  I  looked  at  Capting  Bissum — Cap  ting  Bissum  looked 
at  me.     He  said  nothin' — I  said  nuthin'. 

"  The  man  at  the  masthead  sung  out, 

'"Thar— she— blows!' 

"  I  walked  right  up  to  Capting  Bissum,  and  says  I,  '  Cap- 
ting  Bissum,  shall  I  lower  away?'  Says  he,  'Simmons 
Howard — (that's  my  name,  yer  know) — if  you  sees  fitten 

to  lower — lower  and  be  d !'     Thereupon  I  did  lower — 

and  I  says, 

"  '  Give  way,  boys,  for  'ile's  a  rising.' 

"  And  I  pulled  right  straight  away  up  to  the  critter,  and 
I  shoved  my  harpoon  just  abaft  his  blowers,  and  I  guv  him 
such  a  fluke  as  settled  him  for  life  ;  and  I  cum  aboard,  and 
Capting  Bissum  met  me  at  the  gangway  with  tears  in  his 
eyes — and  says  he, 

"  '  Simmons  Howard,  you're  a  leetle  of  the  smartest  man 
as  ever  druv  a  harpoon  in  these  'ere  suthern  seas.  There's 
my  t'baccy  box  and  my  pipe,  at  your  sarvice  for  the  remain- 
der of  the  woyage.' 

"  Says  I,  '  Capting  Bissum/  says  I,  '  I  axes  favors  of  no 
man.  All  I  want  is  ciwility,  and  that  of  the  commonest 
kind.' 

"  What  d'ye  think  o'  that?"  says  he,  for  a  yarn. 

And  we  had  a  jolly  good  laugh  at  the  recital. 


Drifting  About.  147 


XXXV. 

THE  ISLAND  OF  LAHAINA. 

I  think  it  was  about  the  twelfth  day  out,  that  we  neared 
the  Island  of  Maui — of  which  Lahaina  is  the  principal 
city.  The  ostensible  purport  of  the  visit  of  the  schooner 
was  for  a  cargo  of  potatoes  and  onions,  these  vegetables  at 
that  time  bringing  fifteen  and  twenty  cents  a  pound  in  San 
Francisco,  and  only  costing  two  cents  there. 

As  we  neared  the  beach  in  the  schooner's  boat,  hundreds 
of  natives  came  swimming  towards  us,  throwing  us  fruit, 
etc. 

Just  as  I  was  gaining  the  shore,  and  had  read  the  words 
"  Custom  House"  in  large  black  letters  on  a  very  rickety- 
looking  building,  I  heard  a  voice  call  out,  "  There's  Steve 
M ." 

This  certainly  had  the  effect  of  making  me  feel  some- 
what at  home,  and  upon  my  shaking  hands  with  my  friend 
in  uniform,  I  found  he  was  the  acting  U.  S.  Consul  there, 
Mr.  Wm.  Hubbard,  once  of  Buffalo,  who  remembered  me 
when  at  Nevin's — the  reader  may  remember  how  many 
years  ago.  We  "  homologated"  at  once — my  trunks  were 
immediately  transferred  to  his  residence,  which  he  informed 
me  was  used  as  the  country  "  palace"  of  the  Queen,  Kame- 
hameha — and  surely  no  lovelier  or  cooler  spot  could  have 
been  selected,  right  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  while 
groves  of  cocoa-nut  and  orange-trees  shielded  you  from 
the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  in  the  daj'time. 

They  had  two  very  fair  hotels,  where  you  could  be 
accommodated  at  one  dollar  per  diem,  for  board  and 
bedding ;  but  the  plan  generally  adopted,  I  found  out,  was 
to  hire  what  they  call  a  "  Grass  House."  These  cost  only 
four  dollars  a  month,  and  are  cool,  and  kept  by  the  natives 
scrupulously  clean ;  the  furniture  simply  consisting  of  a 
bamboo  chair,  a  table,  a  bedstead,  with  a  Chinese  mat  on 
it,  and  one  thin  sheet,  of  course  covered  by  a  "  mosquito 
net." 


148  Drifting  About. 


LAHAItfA. 

I  had  heard  much  in  my  boyish  days,  both  in  England 
and  the  United  States,  of  the  privations,  the  trials,  the 
dangers,  and  the  troubles  of  the  "  poor  missionary."  In- 
deed, I  recollect  of  a  mahogany  box  with  a  brass  plate  on 
it,  that  lay  for  years  on  my  father's  parlor  table,  with  the 
significant  words :  "  For  the  Poor  Heathen11  engraved 
thereon — and  as  I  would  very  occasionally  drop  therein  a 
heavy  penny  of  the  reign  of  George  the  Third,  and  give 
the  box  a  gentle  shake,  to  see  how  much  was  in  it,  I  felt 
I  had  done  something  for  the  copper-colored  race — and 
when  at  "  Exeter  Hall,"  at  the  missionary  meetings,  at  the 
May  anniversaries,  I  would  gaze  with  astonishment, 
wonder,  and  almost  holy  reverence,  as  the  chairman  would 
introduce  the  Eev.  Mr.  So  and  So,  from  the  "  Sandwich 
Islands,"  to  the  audience.  I  little  dreamed  that  I  should 
revel  in  the  luxuries  of  the  delicious  climate  from  whence 
they  came,  or  witness  the  content,  elegance,  and  refinement 
in  which  these  self-sacrificing,  disinterested,  and  sedate 
looking  gentlemen  passed  away  their  lives. 

Upon  one  occasion  I  distinctly  remember  going  down  to 
the  St.  Katharine  Dock,  in  London,  to  witness  the  depar- 
ture of  some  missionaries  for  the  port  of  Honolulu — and  I 
felt  an  inward  conviction  that  they  were  going  to  certain 
death — that  they  would  be  cleaved  right  up  immediately 
upon  their  arrival ;  and  when  a  facetious  friend  of  mine, 
who  had  recently  returned  from  that  portion  of  the  globe, 
informed  me,  that  at  the  hotel  at  which  he  stopped,  he  no- 
ticed one  day  an  extraordinary -looking  dish,  at  one  end  of 
the  table,  and  upon  inquiring  its  nomenclature,  was  in- 
formed it  was  "  a  piece  of  cold  missionary,"  I  shuddered 
at  the  thought  of  their  fool-hardiness,  and  invariably  lauded 
their  truly  Christian  philanthropic  and  devotional  inten- 
tions. 

The  Eev.  Mr. of  Lahaina,  who  had  resided  there  at 

the  date  about  which  I  am  writing,  some  twenty  years  ago 
— was  not  only  very  much  respected  and  beloved  by  his 
congregation,  consisting  of  native  men  and  women,  but 
passed  his  days  in  ease,  quiet,  and  luxury ;  and  I  was 


Drifting  About.  149 

informed  had  amassed  quite  a  snug  little  fortune ;  and  I  will 
here  remark,  not  intending  to  pursue  the  subject  farther 
of  the  good  or  evil  effects  of  the  Missionary  system,  that  in 
all  the  countries  I  have  visited,  the  Missionary  has  been 
the  most  independent,  has  lived  the  most  luxuriously,  and 
instead  of  his  life  being  one  of  banishment  and  hardship,  it 
appeared  to  me  to  be  one  of  tranquillity,  competence,  and 
ease. 

Lahaina  with  its  environs  is  certainly  the  principal  point 
of  attraction  on  the  Island  of  Maui,  it  being  the  only  sea- 
port of  this  portion  of  the  Hawaiian  group. 

The  roadstead  of  this  beautiful  island  in  the  spring  and 
fall  of  the  year  is  filled  with  large  whale  ships,  that  have 
come  in  from  the  various  cruising  grounds  of  the  Pacific 
to  recruit,  where  all  kinds  of  supplies  can  be  obtained  on 
more  advantageous  terms,  and  with  less  detriment  to  the 
men,  than  at  any  other  place  in  these  waters. 

The  principal  supplies,  if  I  remember  right,  furnished 
by  the  natives,  are  hogs,  goats,  fruit  of  all  kinds,  poultry, 
vegetables,  and  particularly  Irish  potatoes,  for  which  they 
receive  money,  cloth,  etc.,  in  exchange.  Fresh  beef  is 
somewhat  hard  to  get. 

The  bathing,  and  diversions  with  the  surf-board  by  the 
native^  are  particularly  amusing.  In  the  south  part  of  the 
town,  I  used  to  wander  when  the  sea  was  rolling  in  heavily 
over  the  reef,  and  observe  the  evolutions  and  wondrous 
rapidity  of  a  set  of  surf-playing  natives.  The  sport  is 
immensely  attractive,  and  to  the  Hawaiians  full  of  the 
wildest  excitement — though  certainly  I  fancied  to  a  novice 
it  would  be  dangerous  in  the  extreme. 

As  I  witnessed  this  exciting  and  exhilarating  amusement, 
how  greatly  I  regretted  my  inability  to  swim,  or  to  get 
balanced  on  a  board  just  before  a  great  big  wave — and  to 
be  hurried  in  half  a  mile  or  so  landward  with  racehorse 
speed — all  the  time  wrapt  in  spray  and  foam — and  without 
letting  the  roller  break,  and  tumble  over  my  head. 

It  seemed  to  me  to  require  great  strength  of  muscle  to 
keep  the  head  and  shoulders  just  ahead  and  clear  of  the 
great  crested  wall  that  seemed  impending* over  them — and 
threatening  to  bury  the  bold  surf-rider  in  its  watery  ruin. 

The  natives  perform   this  with  wonderful   intrepidity, 


150  Drifting  About. 

skill,  and  daring — riding  upon  the  neck  and  mane,  as  if 
it  were  one  of  their  furious  chargers  ;  and  when  you  look  to 
see  them  in  their  swift  course  dashed  upon  the  sand  or 
rocks,  they  will  just  slip  under  the  belly  of  the  wave  they 
have  ridden — and  are  away  outside  again,  waiting  for  a 
sail  upon  another. 

On  the  Atlantic  sea-board  there  is  wanting  the  delicious 
temperature  of  the  water  within  these  tropics,  and  I  can 
conceive  of  nothing  more  exquisite  than  laving  the  wearied 
limbs  in  its  invigorating  embraces. 

Speaking  of  Lahaina,  the  Kev.  Mr.  Cheever  in  his 
capitally  written  works  says :  "  It  is  one  of  those  places 
which  you  like  much  better  as  you  approach  or  recede  from 
it,  than  when  you  are  actually  in  it.  A  little  way  off  it 
seems  sweetly  embosomed  in  bread-fruit  trees,  and  all  fresh 
and  lovely  with  sunshine  and  verdure,  calmly  inclosed  sea- 
ward within  a  fence  of  foam,  made  by  the  sea  breaking 
upon  the  coral  reef.  Eide  over  the  rollers  in  a  whale-boat 
or  native  canoe,  get  to  the  sun-burnt,  dusty  land,  walk  up 
a  few  rods,  perhaps  with  white  pantaloons,  to  the  mission- 
houses,  and  make  acquaintance  on  the  way  to  your  heart's 
content  with  Lahaina  dust  and  caloric,  and  }tou  will  pro- 
bably by  that  time  be  saying  to  yourself — 

'Twas  distance  lent  enchantment  to  the  view. 

"However,  dirt,  fleas,  mosquitoes,  and  heat  to  the  con- 
trary notwithstanding,  Lahaina  has  so  salubrious  and  dry  a 
climate,  and  advantages  for  healthful  sea-bathing  all  the 
year  round,  that  one  who  is  anything  of  an  invalid  likes  to 
be  there,  or,  what  is  better,  two  miles  above,  at  the  semi- 
nary of  Lahainaluna.  It  is  said  that  the  greatest  observed 
elevation  of  the  mercury  here  in  Fahrenheit's  thermometer, 
for  ten  years,  was  86  deg. ;  the  lowest,  54  deg.  The  wind 
is  the  alternating  land  and  sea  breeze.  A  steep  mountainous 
ridge  in  the  rear  entirely  breaks  off  the  trades,  and,  receiv- 
ing all  their  rain,  carries  it  distilled  below  in  a  fertilizing 
stream  that  irrigates  all  the  valley  and  vega  of  Lahaina,  and 
is  spent  before  it  reaches  the  sea. 

"  Two  or  three  times  in  a  year  the  trades  whirl  over  the 
mountain,  and  then  woe  to  the  man's  eyes  that  are  so  luck- 


Drifting  About.  151 

less  as  to  be  found  in  it.  From  hill  and  plain  there  are 
caught  up  great,  suffocating  volumes  of  red  dust,  that 
envelop  all  the  town,  and  even  roll  off  to  ships  in  the  road- 
stead, and  redden  the  sea.  Closed  doors  and  windows  are 
as  mere  lattice-work  for  it.  It  traverses  stone  walls  and 
adobes,  human  lungs  and  ears,  and  I  know  not  but  livers, 
and  permeates  every  thing.  If  a  man's  eye  only  escape 
being  filled  and  getting  the  ophthalmia,  he  is  well  off. 
But  the  blow  is  over,  all  is  well  again.  The  sea  or  the 
translucent  Lahainaluna  water  is  there  to  wash  in,  and, 
merrily  making  your  ablutions  within  and  without,  you'll 
sing- 
Cold  water  for  me,  cold  water  for  me ! 
But  wine  for  the  tremulous  debauchee  1" 


XXXVI. 


After  passing  three  or  four  weeks  very  delightfully 
here,  I  took  passage  in  a  Government  vessel  for  the  city  of 
Honolulu,  the  Capital  of  the  Island  of  "  Oahu,"  pronounced 
O-wy-hee. 

Two  days  I  think  brought  us  to  our  destined  port. 
After  delivering  some  letters  of  introduction,  and  having 
had  my  traps  taken  to  the  United  States  Hotel,  I  strolled 

with   my  friend  S of  the  house  of  Makee   Anthon 

&  Co.,  (whom  at  this  late  day  I  wish  to  thank  for  many- 
acts  of  kindness  and  attention),  to  see  a  few  of  the  lions 
and  lionesses. 

I  believe,  at  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing,  Honolulu 
had  a  population  of  about  20,000 — the  principal  building 
at  that  time  was  the  Custom  House — quite  an  imposing 
looking  edifice  of  white  stone.  They  also  had  a  little 
theatre  here,  several  churches  of  various  persuasions,  and 
numbers  of  quite  elegantly  constructed  private  dwellings. 
The  varied  scenery  of  the  valley  called  JSTuuanu,  with  its 
highly  cultivated  cascades,  cottages,  and  romantic  mountain 


i£2  Drifting  About. 

sides  is  beautiful  in  the  extreme.  I  passed  some  delightful 
hours  at  the  residence  of  Dr.  Judd,  which  he  calls  "  Sweet 
Home" — and  I  carry  with  me  "  pleasant  memories"  of  the 
charming  society  and  kind  hospitality  of  his  wife  and  daugh- 
ters. 

Now  it  was  suggested  to  me  that  as  there  never  yet  had 
been  a  concert  given  at  the  Islands,  and  as  they  had  seen 
by  the  S.  F.  journals,  that  I  had  given  several,  "  unaided 
and  unassisted,"  in  California,  I  should  accordingly  in- 
augurate the  system  there,  and  I  was  accordingly  dubbed 
the  "  Captain  Cook"  of  the  tribe  of  wandering  minstrels. 

I  was  in  a  dilemma  about  a  good  piano,  when  upon  being 
introduced  to  Mrs.  Patteson,  the  daughter  of  Mr.  Allen  the 
U.  S.  Consul,  she  most  kindly  loaned  me  one  of  "  Chick- 
ering's"  celebrated  "  grand,"  which  was  duly  carted  to  the 
place  of  amusement. 

The  night  was  oppressively  hot,  and  the  theatre  crowded. 
The  private  boxes,  of  which  there  were  three,  were  reserved 
for  the  Royal  party,  consisting  of  the  King,  Kammehameha, 
two  or  three  Queens,  and  any  number  of  Princes  and  Prin- 
cesses. The  first  (and  only)  tier  was  filled  with  the  English 
and  American  portion  of  the  population,  and  the  pit  cram- 
med with  Kanakas,  men,  women,  and  children. 


The  performance  had  gone  on  smoothly  enough  until  I 
came  to  the  ballad  of  "  The  Old  Arm  Chair,"  which  I  was 
requested  to  sing  in  response  to  an  encore.     Now,  not  hav- 


Drifting  About.  153 

ing  then  a  very  definite  idea  of  the  opinions  entertained  of 
my  merits  or  demerits  by  the  native  part  of  my  auditory,  I 
was  quite  unprepared  for  the  following  incident,  which  for 
the  moment  upset  my  equilibrium,  and  threw  the  house 
into  roars  of  laughter.  When  feeling  in  pretty  good  trim, 
I  have  generally  been  successful  in  operating  upon  the 
feelings  or  the  nerves  of  some  tender-hearted  old  or  young 
lady  (as  the  case  may  be)  in  rendering  the  second  stanza  of 
this  charming  composition  of  Eliza  Cook,  and  upon  the 
present  occasion,  this  hydraulic  phenomenon  having  been 
witnessed  by  two  or  three  of  the  Kanakas,  they  all  stood 
up,  shook  their  fists  at  me,  and  gesticulating  in  the  most 
extraordinary  manner,  and  jabbering  in  the  native  tongue, 
at  the  top  of  their  voices,  completely  upset  everything  for 
the  moment.  I  stopped  short,  came  to  the  front,  and 
asked  them  what  they  wished.  "Oliolo  hale  kage,  boo- 
boo,  hokey-pokey,  shaggy-baggy,  male-halle,  poko-foko," 
they  replied,  pointing  to  the  women  who  were  crying 
upstairs.  With  this  they  ran  out  of  the  building,  and 
swore  vengeance  against  me.  I  was  told  that  they  thought 
by  seeing  the  women  in  tears,  that  I  had  insulted  them, 
and  as  they  were  entirely  in  the  dark  as  to  the  nature  of 
the  performance,  devoid  as  it  was  of  anything  particularly 
meretricious,  they  took  this  opportunity  to  vent  their  in- 
dignation. Order  was  soon  restored,  and  at  the  end  of  the 
entertainment,  his  Majesty  did  me  the  honor  to  take  some 
sherry  wine  with  me,  and  invited  me  to  the  Palace  on  the 
following  day.  w    . 

The  "  Polynesian"  had  the  following,  in  reference  \o  the 
performance :  * 

Mr.  Stephen  Massett,  the  American  Vocalist. — This  gentleman's 
first  appearance  at  the  Hawaiian  Hall,  last  evening,  was  attended  by 
His  Majesty,  King  Kammahamaha,  and  the  principal  English  and 
American  residents,  who  appeared  quite  delighted  with  the  rare  and 
intellectual  treat  afforded  them.  Mr.  Massett  was  waited  upon  at  the 
close  of  his  performance  by  a  number  of  influential  gentlemen,  who 
requested  him  to  defer  his  departure  for  a  few  days,  to  enable  them  to 
enjoy  a  repetition  of  his  ballad  entertainment. 

7* 


154  Drifting  About. 


XXXVII. 

ARRIVE   AGAIN  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

After  a  delightful  run  of  fourteen  days,  I  arrived  again 
at  San  Francisco,  in  the  schooner  Odd  Fellow,  and  proceeded 
at  once  to  Sacramento,  where  I  met  my  future  partner,  Mr. 
R.  H.  Taylor,  of  the  Marysville  Herald,  the  second  paper 
ever  started  in  California. 

He  made  me  an  offer  to  purchase  half  the  establishment, 
and  upon  mature  deliberation  and  reflection  of  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  I  concluded  to  do  so,  and  immediately  pre- 
pared to  start  for  my  future  home  in  the  city  of  Marysville, 
Yuba  county,  California,  and  to  take  my  seat  as  the  junior 
editor  of  the  aforementioned  journal. 

The  Gov.  Dana  steamer  conveyed  myself  and  two  trunks 
in  safety  to  the  landing  at  the  Levee ;  and  when  I  had  man- 
aged, after  wading  up  to  my  middle  in  mud  and  slush,  to 
find  out  the  office  of  the  Herald,  situated  then  on  a  barren 
waste,  known  on  the  map  as  the  corner  of  C  and  Second 
street,  I  resembled  more  the  driver  of  a  swill  cart,  or  a  street- 
sweeping  machine,  than  one  of  the  corps  editorial.  Upon 
knocking  at  the  door  and  lifting  the  latch,  I  found  my 
"senior,"  wrapped  in  a  red  blanket,  fast  asleep,  lying  upon 
a  cot,  that  boasted  of  no  other  ornament  than  that  it  went 
on  "  tick,"  and  repudiated  altogether  pillows  and  mattresses. 
The  attenuated  form  of  the  gallant  Colonel  lay  stretched 
out  in  all  the  blissful  ignorance  of  sleep,  and  with  mouth 
wide  open — regardless  of  the  hammering  of  the  foreman  in 
an  adjoining  apartment,  who  was  "  putting  the  paper  to 
press" — gave  utterance  to  his  thoughts  and  pent-up  feel- 
ings in  a  snore  that  would  have  startled  one  less  nervous 
than  myself. 


Drifting  About.  155 


XXXVIII. 

I  TURN"  EDITOR. 

The  office  was  a  little  wooden  shanty,  of  a  very  unpre- 
tending style  of  architecture,  and  difficult  indeed  to  describe. 
It  had  a  door,  a  roof,  and  one  or  two  windows,  and  was,  I 
believe,  originally  one  of  a  number  of  "  portable  houses  " 
sent  "  round  the  Horn  "  by  some  enterprising  man  at  the 
east,  and  by  which  speculation  an  immense  amount  was 
realized.  I  think  ours  cost  about  $600 — (worth  at  home 
about  $150.) 

After  waking  my  "  sleeping  partner,"  and  meeting  with 
a  kindly  greeting,  I  proceeded  as  quickly  as  possible  to  get 
into  the  "  harness"  of  my  daily  business ;  and  after  some 
three  or  four  days'  initiation  by  my  senior,  who  had  to  go 
to  San  Jose  to  report  the  proceedings  of  the  Legislature,  I 
was  left  in  sole  charge  of  the  "  sheet." 

To  say  that  I  had  no  misgivings,  upon  viewing  the  reced- 
ing form  of  my  tall  partner,  as  he  with  trowsers  tucked  into 
his  cowskin  boots,  and  with  valise  in  hand  and  numberless 
things  in  his  head,  wended  his  way  to  the  stage  office  to 
take  passage  for  Sacramento  city,  would  be  not  to  tell 
the  truth.  In  those  days  Californian  editors  generally  slept 
with  two  or  three  double-barrelled  pistols  under  their  head, 
and  the  same  number  of  bowie  knives  at .  their  feet ;  for  if 
an  article  happened  to  appear,  reflecting  in  the  slightest 
degree  upon  the  character  of  an  individual  or  individuals, 
corporate  bodies  or  bodies  incorporate,  he,  she,  they,  or  it 
would  immediately  wait  upon  you  "by  a  friend,"  demand- 
ing instant  satisfaction  with  either  knives,  pistols,  or  both. 
Therefore,  I  felt  keenly  the  fearful  responsibility  resting 
upon  my  shoulders. 

Our  paper  was  then  a  "  tri- weekly ;"  and  as  the  political 
and  consequently  prosy  portion  thereof  was  taken  care  of  \ 
entirely  by  Mr.  Taylor,  it  was  reserved  for  me  to  look  after! 
the  matters  of  local  interest,  and  "  do  up"  "  the  short  arti-  A 
cles,  items,"  etc. 

The  year  of  my  residence  in  Marysville  passed  away  so 


156  Drifting  About. 

deliglitfu.il y  that  I  really  regretted  the  thought  of  leaving ; 
still,  as  restlessness  and  change  were  the  order  of  the  day, 
and  I  fancied  the  offer  made  me  for  my  interest  in  the  jour- 
nal a  good  one,  I  made  up  my  mind  to  sell  out ;  intend- 
ing to  return  to  New  York,  prior  to  a  brief  trip  to  Europe, 
and  being  at  this  time  master  of  a  larger  sum,  in  cash  and 
real  estate,  than  I  had  ever  been  before  or  have  been  since. 
Many  interesting  incidents  and  adventures  took  place 
during  my  sojourn  here ;  and  from  a  little  memorandum 
book  of  my  brief  Notes,  I  will  jot  down  a  few  of  them. 


XXXIX. 

AN  EDITORIAL  CONCERT. 

Upon  one  occasion,  the  business  of  our  paper  led  me 
again  to  San  Francisco ;  and  having  (as  was  usually  the 
case)  been  very  successful,  not  only  in  swelling  our  sub- 
scription list  pretty  considerably,  but  in  collecting  large  sums 
for  advertising,  I  thought  I  might  do  a  little  business  pro- 
fitably on  my  own  account,  having  been  solicited  by  many 
of  my  New  York  friends  (amusements  being  at  that  time 
rather  scarce)  to  give  a  concert. 

I  accordingly  went  over  to  the  "  Alta  "  office,  and  got 
out  a  programme.  The  prices  were — boxes,  five  dollars — 
side  boxes,  three  dollars — pit,  three  dollars. 

The  bellman,  to  whom  I  had  paid  five  dollars  for  ring- 
ing in  the  people,  and  calling  out  at  the  top  of  his  voice  the 
nature  of  the  entertainment,  had  just  informed  me  that  the 
house  was  full,  and  it  was  time  for  me  to  begin,  when,  all 
of  a  sudden,  I  found  I  had  forgotten  the  piano. 

Now  as  there  was  no  orchestra,  and  I  always  accompa- 
nied myself  in  my  own  songs,  the  reader  will  perceive  I  was 
in  a  "  fix."  However,  great  was  my  delight  and  relief  in 
the  premises,  when  at  the  eleventh  hour  I  found  a  gorgeous 
Chickering  grand  at  my  disposal,  which  Mayor  Selover,  of 
the  Union  Hotel,  was  kind  enough  to  loan  me.  An  apo- 
logy was  made  by  me  for  the  delay,  and  all  went  off  well ; 
I  netting  $600  by  the  labor  of  one  hour  and  a  half. 


Drifting  About.  157 

The  day  after,  the  city  was  reduced  to  ashes  by  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  destructive  fires  on  record;  theatre, 
hotel,  piano,  and  everything  else  being  fuel  for  the  flames. 
The  next  day  I  received  a  letter  from  my  esteemed  partner, 
who  remarked  that  he  thought  it  was  "  rather  derogatory 
to  the  dignity  of  an  editor  to  be  going  about  the  country 
giving  exhibitions  of  his  vocal  and  imitative  powers ;"  but 
that  he  wouldn't  have  any  material  objection,  provided  I 
would  halve  the  receipts  I 

So  much  for  my  "  Editorial  Concert !" 


XL. 

THE  GREAT  FIRE — AN  INCIDENT  AT  THE  BANK. 

At  this  time  T.  Butler  King,  Esq.,  was  Collector  of  the 

Eort,  and  running  for  U.  S.  Senator.  Our  paper  supported 
is  election,  and  the  consequence  was,  a  very  "  fat"  ad- 
vertisement fell  to  the  lot  of  the  proprietors  of  the  "  Marys- 
ville  Herald,"  to  the  tune  of  $1800,  which  amount  was 
duly  handed  to  me  in  octagonal  fifty  dollar  gold  pieces,  and  y> 
which  was  lodged  for  safe  keeping  at  the  banking-house  of 
Burgoyne  &  Co.,  at  the  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Wash- 
ington streets. 

The  deposit  was  made  the  day  after  my  concert  had 
taken  place,  consequently  I  had  about  $2500  "  on  call" 
there  at  the  time. 

I  was  standing  at  the  top  of  "  Clay"  street,  near  "  Pike," 
when  the  fire  was  raging  at  its  height ;  block  after  block 
of  buildings  were  caught  in  the  fiery  embrace,  Union 
Hotel,  Theatre,  El  Dorado  Building,  all,  all  were  swept 
away,  and  at  last  the  flames  caught  the  Bank  of  Burgoyne 
&  Co.,  whose  building  was  considered  fire-proof.  It  was 
seemingly  inclosed  in  sheets  of  flame,  and  many  a  heart 
quailed  in  expectation  of  losing  every  cent  there  deposited, 
for  the  heaviest  accounts  in  the  city  were  kept  at  this  pet 
banking-establishment.  If  my  friend  J.  E.  C.  ever  reads 
these  lines,  he  will  recollect  the  query  I  put  to  him,  as  to 
whether  he  thought  the  "  place"  would  stand ! 


158  Drifting  About. 

On  that  night  everybody  slept  in  the  open  air,  on  the 
top  of  barrels,  bales,  or  anything  else — there  did  not  seem 
a  vestige  of  a  house  left.  Utter  desolation  and  despair 
reigned  supreme.  About  ten  o'clock  on  the  following 
morning,  Mr.  Geo.  Plume,  one  of  the  firm,  upon  going  to  the 
safe  (one  of  the  celebrated  Herring's  by  the  way)  handed 
me  my  buckskin  bag  of  gold,  with  even  the  sealing-wax 
not  melted ! 

So  much  for  a  good  safe,  and  my  luck ! 

Before  I  left  Marysville,  it  was  suggested  that  I  should 
have  a  "  farewell  concert."  The  following  "  correspon- 
dence" upon  the  subject  appeared  in  the  daily  papers  : — 

Marysville,  Nov.  2»,  1851. 
To  Stephen  C.  Massett,  Esq. 

Dear  Sir  : — Before  you  break  the  final  link,  and  bid  us  farewell,  we 
earnestly  solicit  you  to  give  to  the  ladies  and  citizens  of  Marysville  a 
public  concert, — in  order  that  they,  as  well  as  ourselves,  may  once 
again  have  the  gratification  and  pleasure  of  enjoying  and  appreciating 
your  excellent  voice  and  musical  talents. — You  will  thus  add  another 
to  the  u  pleasant  memories"  we  shall  ever  have  of  you,  and,  we  hope, 
also,  increase  those  which  you  kindly  say  you  will  take  away  with 
you. 

We  pledge  ourselves  to  give  you  a  bumper,  and  with  the  sincere 
desire  that  happiness  and  prosperity  may  ever  attend  you, 

We  are,  dear  sir,  With  every  consideration,  Yours  most  faithfully, 

Hon.  S.  M.  Miles,  Mayor. 
Edward  S.  Woodruff, 
President  of  Common  Council. 

E.  G-arst,  Aid.  1st  Ward.  R.  H.  Taylor. 

F.  W.  Shaeffer,  Aid.  2d  Ward.        Cuningham  &  Brumagim. 
D.  W.  C.  Rice,  Aid.  3d  Ward.        Packard  &  Co. 

Howell  &  Co.  Henry  P.  Watkins. 

Blanchar  &  Garst.  J.  H.  Adams. 

Col.  C.  S.  Kasson.  W.  Willson  Smith. 

S.  T.  Watts,  M.D.  Stephen  J.  Field. 

Chas.  Ball.  James  Cushing. 

Thos.  Bennet,  M.  D.  Samuel  A.  Wheeler. 

Roberts,  Packard  &  Co.  Capt.  A.  Pinnix. 
King,  Pierce  &  Co. 

Marysville,  Dec.  1.  1851. 

To  the  Hon.  S.  M.  Miles,    Alderman  E.  Woodruff,  Alderman  Garst, 
and  others  : 

Q-entlemen  : — Your  very  kind  and  flattering  letter  has  just  been 
received  by  me,  and  I  assure  you  from  my  heart  I  thank  you  for  your 


Drifting  About.  159 

good  wishes.  I  shall  be  most  happy  to  give  a  Concert  in  Marysville 
ere  I  leave,  and  I  have  the  pleasure  to  inform  you  that  I  have  been 
promised  by  Messrs.  Van  Reed  and  Alderman  McDuffie,  the  proprie- 
tors of  the  El  Dorado,  the  new  brick  building  erecting  on  D  street,  the 
large  room,  on  the  night  previous  to  their  opening,  for  that  purpose. 
Due  notice  will  be  given  of  the  evening  the  concert  will  take  place. 

Assuring  you,  gentlemen,  that  I  shall  ever  retain  the  liveliest  re- 
membrance of  your  favors, 

I  remain  your  obedient  servant, 

S.  C.  Massett. 

On  the  2d  of  March,  1852,  I  left  San  Francisco  in  the 
Pacific  M.  S.  S.  "  Northerner,"  Captain  Kandall,  for 
Panama ;  and  a  most  delightful  trip  we  had  of  it. 

After  enjoying  myself  to  my  heart's  content  once  again 
in  dear  New  York,  and  receiving  the  congratulations  of 
friends  upon  my  safe  arrival  from  the  Land  of  Gold,  I 
made  up  my  mind  to  pay  a  visit  to  my  relations  in  Eng- 
land, and  make  a  brief  trip  on  the  Continent. 

I  accordingly  presented  myself  at  the  office  of  C.  H. 
Marshall,  and  engaged  a  passage  in  the  packet  ship 
"  Great  Western,"  Captain  W.  G.  Furber,  for  Liverpool. 

We  left  New  York  on  the  morning  of  February  17, 
1853,  and  landed  at  the  Victoria  Dock,  Liverpool,  on  the 
7th  of  March,  after  a  delightful  run  of  only  16  days. 


XLI. 

SINGULAR  SENSATIONS  UPON  RE-VISITING  ENGLAND. 

If  I  have  succeeded  in  interesting  the  reader  sufficiently 
in  these  reminiscences  and  sketches,  to  have  kept  in  his 
memory  the  date  of  my  arrival  in  New  York  from  Eng- 
land, he  will  find  that  about  seventeen  years  of  my  life  had 
passed  away  since  I  had  left  my  "  native  heath ;"  and 
certainly  my  sensations  upon  my  return,  a3  may  be  ima- 
gined, were  of  a  very  peculiar  nature. 

I  had  left  England  a  boy,  arriving  in  the  New  World  with 
no  fixed  purpose  or  intention,  had  led  somewhat  of  a  dis- 
cursive life,  and  certainly  a  very  different  one  from  that 
carved  out  for  me  by  my  beloved  parents. 


i6o  Drifting  About. 

How  many  and  shifting  were  the  scenes  I  had  passed 
through.  How  many  changes  had  taken  place;  what 
views  of  the  past  greeted  my  mental  vision,  as  I  gazed 
through  the  long  vista  of  the  departed  years,  and  my  heart 
lingered  with  pleasure  and  with  pain  on  the  "  pictures  of 
memory,"  that  flashed  for  a  moment  before  me,  as  I  trod 
once  again  the  shores  of  my  native  land!  Pleasure  at 
the  thought  of  meeting  once  more  with  the  few  that  re- 
mained of  our  once  extended  family  circle.  Pain  as  I 
yearned  for 

"  The  touch  of  a  vanished  hand, 

And  the  sound  of  a  voice  that  was  still  I" 


XLIL 

MY  FIRST  DAY  IN  LIVERPOOL. 

It  was  exactly  half-past  four  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of 
Tuesday  the  7th  of  March,  that  I  landed  with  my  baggage 
at  the  Victoria  Dock,  and  proceeded  to  the  depot  to  be 
examined. 

This  I  found  (contrary  to  my  expectations)  to  be  a  very 
easy  matter,  the  officer  simply  passing  his  hand  down  each 
side  of  my  trunk,  and  taking  my  word  that  there  was  no- 
thing in  my  hat-box  but  my  new  "  Genin." 

I  then  took  a  "  car,"  as  they  called  it,  and  drove  to  the 
"  Adelphi"  Hotel — one  of  the  best  taverns  in  England — to 
the  porter  who  carried  my  luggage  from  the  steamer  to  the 
baggage  office,  I  gave  two  shillings  (or  50  cents),  to  the 
"  cabman,"  one  shilling  and  sixpence. 

I  found  a  "  book"  (a  la  Americaine)  in  the  hall  of  the 
hotel,  in  which  I  registered  my  name,  and  was  shown  to  a 
very  comfortable  room  (No.  18)  by  a  very  pretty  little 
chambermaid. 

The  bedstead  and  fixtures  generally  amused  me  ex- 
ceedingly— so  different  from  ours  in  America!  It  was 
ascended  on  either  side  by  a  step-ladder — it  was  surrounded 
by  huge  damask  curtains— a  fire  made  ready  for  lighting — 


Drifting  About. 


161 


guard,  fender,  poker,  shovel,  and  tongs;  these  trifles 
brought  up  most  strangely  to  me  the  "  days  lang  syne !" 

Now,  I  do  not  intend  in  these  brief  "  glances"  at  places 
and  people,  to  give  any  very  extended  sketch  or  account  of 
the  surroundings,  or  of  my  sojournings, — the  thing  has 
been  done  to  death  from  the  year  one,  up  to  the  present 
time ;  and  I  shall  content  myself  by  saying  in  reference  to 
Liverpool,  that  I  think  it  one  of  the  most  gloomy  looking 
places  I  have  ever  visited,  and  that  I  felt  that  I  could  "  do" 
it  in  one  day  quite  easily,  and  to  my  own  satisfaction. 

Towards  night  I  strolled  a  little  through  the  town.  The 
first  thing  that  struck  me  was  the  "  street-singing,"  two 
blind  men  were  walking  hand  in  hand,  in  the  gutter,  look- 
ing as  blind  men  invariably  do,  right  up  in  the  sky — sing- 
ing "  Kejoice  greatly  in  the  Lord,"  whilst  in  another  street 
an  awful  specimen  of  humanity — stone-blind  also,  shuffled 
along,  with  a  tract  in  his  hand,  which  he  kept  constantly 
thrusting  nervously  at  the  passers-by,  singing  out  in  the 
most  doleful  manner,  "  Moore's  Almanack,"  only  a 
"  apenny !" 


At  the  Theatre  Eoyal  (a  miserably  dirty  looking  place — 
that  after  the  luxuriousness  of  "Wallack's,"  "Laura  Keene's," 
"Niblo's,"  or  the  "Academy,"  was  really  intolerable)  I 
found  they  were  playing  the  "  Enchantress." 


162  Drifting  About. 

The  audience  was  slim,  and  I  did  not  see  a  pretty  woman 
in  the  house. 

I  paid  four  shillings — (one  dollar)  for  my  seat  in  the 
u  dress  circle" — the  upper  boxes  were  three  shillings ;  the 
pit  twt>  shillings,  and  the  gallery  one  shilling. 

The  singers  were  Miss  Louisa  Pyne,  Mr.  Harrison,  and 
Mr.  Borrani. 

The  lady  I  thought  bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  "  The 
Queen" — and  has  one  of-  the  first  voices  I  ever  heard,  she 
sang  superbly.  Harrison,  with  decidedly  a  fine  voice,  was 
harsh  in  his  style,  and  occasionally  sang  out  of  tune — he  is 
a  large  muscular  good-looking  fellow,  a  little  like  u  Wood," 
and  a  handsome  likeness  of  "  Gardner,"  who  played  at  the 
Park  some  years  since.  Borrani's  voice  grated  on  the  ear — 
he  seemed  to  have  no  method — he  is  a  very  Jewish-looking 
personage. 

The  orchestra  was  led  (as  the  bills  say)  by  Mr.  Fitz- 
william,  son  of  the  actress — and  was  wretched — and  to  my 
astonishment  the  "first  fiddle"  was  played  by  a  "colored 
gemman" — yes,  a  regular  woolly-headed  mulatto. 

I  stood  two  acts,  and  turned  my  steps  to  the  "  Amphi- 
theatre" where  they  were  playing  "  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin" — 
stood  about  five  niinutes  of  that — for  the  dirt,  dust,  heat,  ■ 
and  fleas,  were  not  to  be  endured.  I  accordingly  adjourned 
to  a  thorough  English  looking  Oyster  Saloon — being  a 
room  about  four  feet  wide  by  six  deep.  Here  a  very  civil, 
fat,  rosy-faced  man,  with  "  bib  and  tucker"  on,  opened  me  a 
"  couple  of  dozen  of  Natives,"  his  wife  cutting  me  some 
thin  "  bread  and  butter ;"  and  washing  it  down  with  a  glass 
of  very  indifferent  ale,  I  paid  my  bill,  and  toddled  to  the 
"  Adelphi,"  followed  and  beset  by  beggars,  old  women 
with  bills  of  the  play,  distressed  seamen,  and  abandoned 
females. 

Arrived  at  the  Hotel,  I  had  a  very  pleasant  interview 
with  the  composer  Mr.  George  Barker,  known  in  America 
as  the  author  of  "  Mary  Blane,"  the  "  White  Squall." 
After  a  "  strong  cup,"  I  adjourned  to  my  cozy  chamber 
and  high  old  bed,  the  top  of  which  having  reached  I  seemed 
to  fall  through  an  ocean  of  feather  beds,  covered  by  at 
least  a  bale  of  blankets,  and  several  hundred  yards  of  the 
choicest  Irish-linen — it  having  first  been  subjected  by  my 


Drifting  About  163 

pretty  chambermaid  to  the  operation  of  the  warming  pan, 
the  reader  can  well  imagine  I  did  not  suffer  much  that 
night  from  "  cold." 

Thus  ended  my  first,  and  ("I  guess")  last  night  in 
Liverpool. 


XLIIL 

ALL  ABOUT  THE  CITY  OF  LONDON. 

The  next  day  I  took  the  Express  Train  for  London, 

paying  one  pound  seventeen  shillings  for  a  first  class  ticket 

— this  is  about  twice  the  amount  that  would  be  charged  for 

the  same  distance  in  America.     I  arrived  at  the  Euston 

Square  Station  at  about  four  o'clock,  and  proceeded  at  once 

to  the  residence  of  my  nephew  Dr.  F.  O.W in  Great 

Coram  St.,  Russell  Square. 

******** 

Once  again  did  I  find  myself  in  my  native  city. 

How  difficult  I  find  it  to  describe  my  feelings  as  I  obeyed 
the  request  to  "Knock  and  Ring"  that  stared  me  in  the 
face,  at  the  house  of  my  relative !  When  I  left  England 
he  was  a  boy  at  school.  I  return  to  find  him  a  practising 
physician,  with  a  little  family  of  youngsters  !  and  then  the 
greeting!  the  mental  surprise  of  each  at  the  change!  the 
eagerness  with  which  I  sought  to  catch  the  faintest  remem- 
brance of  the  past,  either  by  glancing  at  the  po^rait,  or  a 
piece  of  furniture,  or  by  questions  innumerable — with  these 
sensations  few  of  my  readers  will  sympathize — and  I  will 
proceed  at  once  to  "  jog  along"  in  my  own  way  with  my 
doings  in  the  big  city. 

If  the  reader  imagines  that  I  am  going  to  describe 
London  particularly  or  any  other  city,  town,  or  hamlet,  I 
may  have  to  mention,  he  or  she  is  greatly  mistaken ;  and 
as  I  said  at  the  commencement  of  these  "  reminiscences,"  I 
intended  to  be  guided  by  no  rule,  in  the  construction  of 
this  book,  but  just  to  "jot  down"  scenes,  incidents,  and 
things — as  they  occurred  in  my  brief  sojournings  in  the 
different  portions  of  the  globe,  I  have  at  various  intervals 
visited. 


164  Drifting  About. 

It  seems  to  me  that  the  sensations  of  a  person  on  his 
first  arrival  in  London  will  be  those  of  intense  curiosity. 
They  may  not  partake  particularly  of  the  feeling  of  wonder  or 
admiration ;  because  the  visitor  may  probably,  at  a  distance, 
have  been  accustomed  to  attach  a  vague  idea  of  importance 
and  grandeur  to  everything  belonging  to  this  City — and 
the  places  and  objects  that  may  first  meet  his  gaze — as  in 
my  case — may  not  possess  so  much  externally  to  recom- 
mend them  to  his  notice,  as  many  towns  which  he  may 
have  passed  through  on  his  journey. 

For  instance,  a  person  coming  by  any  of  the  Eastern 
suburbs,  will  be  sure  to  form  a  very  different  idea  of  the 
vastness  or  opulence  of  the  great  Metropolis,  from  that  con- 
ceived by  another  who  comes  to  it  by  a  western  road,  and 
takes  up  his  residence  at  a  West-end-Hotel — but  most 
assuredly,  wherever  he  alights,  he  must  immediately  re- 
ceive an  impression  of  the  greatness  of  London,  and  it 
seems  to  me  that  his  curiosity  to  explore  it  will  be  imme- 
diately excited. 

My  advice,  in  the  first  place,  to  all  visiting  the  "  Great 
Metropolis,"  is  to  take  apartments  in  some  nice  quarter  of 
the  town — in  the  vicinity  of  Piccadilly,  or  thereabouts,  say 
in  Old  Bond  Street,  St.  James's  Place,  or  Duke  Street,  and 
get  your  meals  when  and  where  you  please.  Hotel  life  in 
London  is  not  only  extremely  expensive,  but  to  an  American 
I  should  imagine  anything  but  desirable.  Indeed  I  have 
often  heard  Englishmen  remark,  that  the  American  system 
of  charging  a  certain  fixed  sum  per  diem  is  a  great  deal 
the  best. 

"  Simpson's"  in  the  Strand,  nearly  opposite  "  Exeter 
Hall,"  is  a  first-rate  place  to  dine — at  about  two  shillings  and 
six  pence  cost,  including  your  pint  of  porter.  If  you  happen 
to  be  a  little  further  west — the  "  Albany"  in  Piccadilly,  or 
the  "  Waterloo"  in  St.  James,  will  answer  equally  weli ;  at 
either  of  these  places,  you  can  get  a  capital  dinner  for 
three  shillings,  or  seventy -five  cents. 

Added  to  this  there  are  innumerable  "  chop-houses,"  such 
as  the  "  Cock,"  "  Bolt-on-tow,"  "  Dr.  Johnsons,"  the  "  Goose 
and  Gridiron,"  "  Dolly's." 

Now  as  I  have  stated  above,  the  plan  is  much  the  best 
to  hire  a  sleeping  apartment  in  a  good  location,  for  which 


Drifting  About.  165 

you  will  pay  one  pound  one  shilling  or  five  dollars  a  week,  or 
even  less,  if  you  do  not  care  to  be  in  so  fashionable  a 
locality,  as  for  instance  iin  "Cecil,"  "Surrey,"  or  "Catharine" 
Street  in  the  Strand,  a  very  snug  and  cozy  lodging  can  be 
had  for  twelve  shillings  per  week. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen,  that  a  person  desirous  of  economiz- 
ing can  reside  in  the  big  city  for  one  pound  ten  shillings 
or  seven  dollars  per  week. 


XLIV. 


THE 

It  was  during  my  connexion  with  the  "  Marysville 
Herald,"  that  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  two  young 
Englishmen,  travelling  in  California,  whom  I  subsequently 
met  in  London,  and  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  many 
pleasant  introductions. 

I  was  introduced  by  one  of  these  gentlemen  to  the 
"  Fielding"  a  literary  club  (now  I  believe  defunct)  situated 
in  Henrietta  street,  Covent  Garden. 

Of  the  notables  I  met  on  my  first  visit,  "  Thackeray," 
"  Douglas  Jerrold,"  and  "  Albert  Smith,"  were  the  most 
conspicuous. 

Thackeray  had  just  returned  from  America,  where  he 
had  been  very  successful  with  his  Lectures  on  the 
"  Georges." 

I  had  been  presented  to  the  author  of  "  Pendennis,"  by 
a  member  of  the  club — a  Sir  George  A ,  which,  doubt- 
less, had  the  effect  of  inducing  the  learned  satirist  to  cast 
one  of  his  patronizing  glances  on  so  unimportant  an  indi- 
vidual as  myself. 

Now  at  this  club,  and  at  the  "  Garrick,"  (about  which 
more  by  and  bye)  there  seemed  to  obtain  among  the  mem- 
bers a  perfect  "  free-masonry"  of  feeling ;  and  badinage 
was  indulged  in  to  any  extent. 

Thackeray  had  just  entered,  and  was  thus  addressed  by 
the  "business  man"  of  Albert  Smith,  "Well,  Thackeray, 


166  Drifting  About. 

you  got  on  very  well  with  your  *  show '  in  America ; 
have  you  seen  ours  ?" 

Thackeray  seemed  at  first  to  take  no  notice  of  the  remark, 
but  walked  slowly  to  the  fireplace,  sat  down  in  an  arm 
chair,  crossed  his  legs,  adjusted  his  spectacles,  and  with  the 
tips  of  the  fingers  of  each  hand-^rneeting,  and  looking 
straight  at  a  piece  of  Liverpool  coal,  replied  in  the  follow- 
ing curt  manner : 

"  I  never  had  much  opinion  of  your  brother's  talent ;  but 
I  admire  his  good  fortune !" 

The  fact  is,  he  did  not  "  see"  the  applicability  of  the 
word  "  show,"  or  like  the  free  and  easy  style  of  interroga- 
tory indulged  in. 


XLV. 

COMICAL  SCENES  IN  A  POLICE   COURT. 

The  police  regulations  of  the  metropolis  are  admirably 
adapted  for  the  maintenance  of  peace  and  order,  and  are 
very  much  superior  to  the  old  fogy  system  of  "  watchmen" 
and  constables.  The  chief  office  of  the  Force,  I  think,  is  in 
"  Guildhall, "  in  the  city,  and  I  was  informed  the  total 
number  of  men,  including  sergeants  and  inspectors,  etc., 
was  over  7000. 

One  of  the  most  celebrated  of  the  police  offices  is  in  Bow- 
street,  Covent  Garden.  Here  upon  one  or  two  occasions 
(as  the  reader  shall  know)  I  enjoyed  a  hearty  laugh. 

The  "  Court"  is  open  to  the  public  each  day,  while  the 
magistrate  is  sitting,  and  presents  to  the  reflective  observer, 
many  scenes  of  varied  character,  which  make  a  lasting  im- 
pression on  the  mind.     The  First  Case  was 

Mr.  Doddles  and  his  Donkey. — James  Doddles  and 
his  wife  were  charged  with  disorderly  and  riotous  con- 
duct under  the  following  unpleasant  circumstances  : — 
Mr.  Doddles  presented  a  most  chilling  appearance,  for 
his  clothes  were  wet  through,  and  his  hair,  matted  with 
mud    and  blood,    clearly   showed    he   had    not    had    an 


Drifting  About.  167 

opportunity  for  the  use  of  a  comb  for  some  months  past. 
His  better  half — in  more  senses  than  one,  for  she  was  twice 
his  size — stood   before  the  Bench,   with   her  nasal  organ 
entirely  enveloped  in  plaster  and  rag.     The  couple  alto- 
gether presented  an   appearance  which  could  not  fail  to 
create  a  smile  even  from  the  Bench.      The  evidence  of 
the    police   was   to  the  effect  of  their  having   seen  both 
defendants  at  daylight  this  (Saturday)  morning  very  much 
the  worse  for  plentiful  imbibings,  and  in  company  with  a 
donkey,  who  apparently  shared  in  Mr.  Doddles's  fro- 
lics,  if  he  had  not  in   his  drink,  for  he  was  incessantly 
kicking  up  his  heels  at  every  drunken  attempt  they  made 
to  load  him  with  their  wegetables ;  and  once  on  finding 
that  a  fine  bunch  of  carrots,  which  they  had  slung  across 
his  neck,  was  within  reach  of  his  grinders,  he  speedily 
displaced   and   nearly   devoured  it,   to  the    great  amuse- 
ment of  the  lookers-on,  before  he  was  detected.    Ultimately 
it  was  found  requisite  to  remove  James  and  his  wife  to  the 
station-house,  for  they  created  a  great  disturbance,  besides 
wallopping  the  donkey  unmercifully. — Magistrate  :  What 
are  you,  Mr.  Doddles  ? — James :  Your  honorable  vorship, 
I  sells  wegetables  and  all  kinds  of  green  stuff. — Magistrate : 
And  where  do  you  live  ? — James :  Vy,  I  lives  close  along- 
side of   Borl's-pond. — Magistrate:    What  pond   do    you 
mean  ? — Officer :  Ball's-pond,  Dalston,  sir. — James :  To  be 
sure;  but  I  alvays  goes  to  Common-garden-market  for  my 
goods,  vet  or  dry,  vind  or  no  vind,  and  precious  vindy  it 
vos  this  morning,  I  can  tell  you,  and  no  mistake. — Magis- 
trate :  Come,  now,  tell  me  how  you  and  Mrs.  Doddles  got 
into  this  state,  and  be  quick,  if  you  please  ? — Mrs.  Doddles : 
Go  it,  Jim,  tell  his  lordship  all  about  it. — James  :  So  I  vill. 
Yer  see,  yer  honor,  this  is  my  wife — my  Sarah — (putting 
his  hand  on  her  head  to  force  her  to  curtsey.) — Mrs.  Dod- 
dles :  Now  then,  Jem,  mind  my  no>se.     (Much  laughter.) — 
James :  Veil,  sir,  as  I  vos  saying,   Sarah  and  I  goes  to 
Common-garden  on  the  donkey. — Magistrate  :  What,  both  I 
it  must  be  a  famous  strong  one,  then. — James  (seriously, 
and  holding  up  his  finger) :  Yer  honor,  it's  the  werry  best 
"  moke  "  as  ever  had  long  ears.     (Great  mirth.)     Well — 
we  goes  there  safe  enough — and  in  course  I'll  tell  the  truth. 
We  had  a  drain  or  two  afore  we  bought  the  stuff,  and  a 


168  Drifting  About. 

drain  or  two  arter.  Now,  I  don't  know  how  it  is,  but  my 
Sarah  and  me  often  drank  twenty  times  as  much,  but  it 
never  got  so  far  ahead  on  us  before.  Then  the  "  moke" 
couldn't  stand  on  his  legs,  and  vonce  he  threw  us  both 
clean  off  him. — Magistrate:  What,  threw  you  both  off? — 
James:  That's  it,  yer  honor;  "  up  goes  the  donkey,  and 
away  goes  Sarah  and  me."  (Kenewed  laughter.)  I  cuts 
my  head  open  again  a  scraper,  and  my  Sarah  breaks  her 
nose.  Well,  then,  I  owns  as  I  did  it — yes — I  vollopped 
the  "  moke,"  and — and— that's  all  of  it. — Magistrate  :  Is 
your  wife's  nose  much  injured? — Sarah:  Your  lordship, 
the  doctor  sez  as  how  the  cartlid  (cartilage)  of  it  is  werry 
nigh  broked.  The  donkey  threw  us  away  flying,  and  I  fell 
vith  my  nose  between  the  rails  of  a  grating. — Subsequently, 
and  amid  continual  merriment,  the  defendants  were  dis- 
missed— his  Worship  thinking  no  doubt  that  they  had 
suffered  enough. 

The  Second  was 

The  Tail  (Tale)  of  a  Jackass. — From  the  era  that 
Saul  went  forth  to  seek  his  father's  asses,  and  from  the 
intelligent  donkey  which  reproved  Balaam,  down  to  the 
veritable  Lumber  Troop,  asses  have  formed  a  continuous  link 
in  the  chain  of  human  society.  Mahomet  rode  on  one  to 
Mecca.  Peter  Pindar  wrote  an  epistle  of  some  two  hun- 
dred lines  or  more  "  to  his  ass,  Peter."  Sterne  moraliseth 
over  the  truly  sentimental  dead  "  Neddy,"  at  "  Nampont." 
Mr.  William  Wordsworth  says  mighty  fine  things  of  a 
temperance-looking  donkey,  drowned  in  his  own  beloved 
lake  (see  the  Excursion,  Book  iv.,  Pedlar,  etc.)  and  brays 
as  eloquently  as  poor  Sancho  Panza,  when  his  "dumb 
animal  I"  went  astray  in  the  mountains — not  to  mention  the 
"  Grolden  Ass  of  Apuleius."  The  ass  of  Hampstead-heath, 
however,  distances  all  other  animals. 

John  Jobson  vs.  Timothy  Brown. — This  was  an  action 
for  the  recovery  of  a  donkey,  price  12s.,  sold  by  John  Job- 
son — commonly  known  as  "  Jack  Sleeky,"  to  the  defendant, 
Tim  Brown,  for  the  aforesaid  sum  of  money. 

First  Commissioner — How  will  you  pay,  Mr.  Brown  ? 

Mr.  Brown — Not  no  how,  if  so  be  I  nose  it — (laughter) 
►—his  donkey's  a  reg'lar  wishous  one,  and  I  couldn't  manage 
him  not  no  how — (laughter.) 


Drifting  About.  169 

Third  Commissioner — Well,  sir,  you  shouldn't  a'  bought 
him. 

Sleeky  Jack — Now,  then,  jest  year  me  speak,  an'  ill  up 
and  tell  you.  This  year  hidentical  donkey  as  he  speaks  on, 
used  to  run  on  Hampstead-heath  on  a  Sundays,  along  with 
another  one ;  this  year  tother  one  died  through  severe 
weather,  and  the  donkey  as  I  bought  took  it  so  much  to 
heart  as  I  never  seed  afore — first  he  took  to  biting,  then  he 
took  to  kicking,  and  at  last  one  o'  our  chaps  on  the  heath 
said  as  how  a  change  of  hair  'ud  do  him  good,  so  I  took 
the  hanimal  down  to  Blackheath  and  sold  him  to  Tim 
Brown,  as  kept  donkeys  for  women  to  ride  on.  (Koars  of 
laughter.) 

First  Commissioner — Well,  and  what  passed  ? 

Sleeky  Jack — Why,  Tim  Brown  axed  me  how  he'd  go 
— trot  him  out,  says  I — and  werry  well  he  trotted — then  he 
ses,  ses  he,  what's  he  carry  ?  anythink,  ses  I,  as  he  stands 
under — (laughter) — werry  good,  ses  he,  but  I  ain't  got  the 
ochre — {money) — oh,  as  for  that  'ere,  ses  I,  'taint  no  matter 
— so  we  'greed  for  12  hog  (shillings);  and  said  as  how  he'd 
git  it  out  of  him  (the  donkey)  afore  next  week,  and  fork 
out  the  browns  like  a  man  of  honor — (roars  of  laughter) — 
werry  well,  I  left  the  donkey — he  never  did — and  I  never 
set  eyes  on  him,  not  till  sich  times  as  I  met  him  in  the 
skittle  ground  at  the  back  o'  Hog-lane. 

Second  Commissioner — Now,  Mr.  Brown,  what  do  you 
say  to  this  ? 

Tim  Brown — Some  on  it's  true,  my  lord,  and  some  on  it's 
not  true.  Fact  is,  somehow  or  other,  he  managed  that  ere 
mawnin  as  he  speaks  on,  to  get  the  donkey  inter  a  werry 
good  temper — in  fact,  I  yeard  'em  a  conwersing  together, 
whilst  I  turned  round  to  Bill  Smith  about  a  harness,  and  I 
suspect  werry  much  he'd  bin  a  givin  on  him  some  wittles. 
— (laughter.)"  No  sooner  was  he  (Sleeky  Jack)  gone,  than 
the  hanimal  set  up  such  a  huniwersal  holler,  as  set  all  the 
t'other  asses  a  goin,  and  we  couldn't  quiet  'em  not  no  how 
— (it  wos  a  downright  reglar  munity  (mutiny),  and  nothink 
couldn't  stop  it — nobody  couldn't  ride  him — I  wallopped 
him — no  go ; — tried  him  at  a  hayband — no  go ;  twisted  his 
tail — -just  the  same,  my  lord ;  so  arter  I  was  tired  on  him, 
and  couldn't  knock  no  sense  in  him,  I  let  him  go,  and  I 

8 


170  Drifting  About. 

never  set  eyes  on  him  since ;  and  it's  my  opinion  he  come 
to  a  bad  end,  as  all  obstropolus  asses  does — there.  (Eoars 
of  laughter,  in  which  the  commissioners  joined  heartily.) 

After  a  short  consultation,  it  was  decided  that  half  the 
sum  should  be  awarded  with  costs.  So  much  for  an  ass — 
we  can  fancy  old  Dogberry,  chanting  to  the  favorite  tune 
of  one  of  the  renowned  Lumber  Troopers  the  "  Lass  of 
Eichmond  Hill." 

The  third  all  about  a  hot  savvilor  (or  sausage)  and  a  baked 
tater : 

Lambeth-street. — A  charge  of  assault  was  preferred 
before  T.  Walker,  Esq.,  by  a  sleak  greasy-faced  eatinghouse 
keeper,  against  a  thick-set  hungry-looking  mechanic. 

"Please  your  vorship,"  began  the  complainant,  "I  sells 
cook'd  willies ;  and  this  here  chap  corned  a  Saturday  in  my 
shop,  and  said  he  was  '  werry  peckish,  and  should  like  sum- 
mat  nice.'  'Vot  can  you  have  nicer,'  sis  I,  'nor  a  hot 
savvilor  and  bak'd  tater?'  —  'Yell,'  sis  he,  'I'll  have  a 
hot  savillor  with  some  mutton  gravy.'  So  as  I  was  a  dip- 
ping into  the  pot  for  von,  I  seed  him  prig  a  piece  of  roast 
wheel.  'Cup,'  sis  I,  'that's  no  go;1  and  I  ax'd  him  to 
drop  a  bob  for  the  weal,  when  he  said  he'd  hadn't  got  &mag 
more  than  twopence  to  pay  for  the  savillor.  Then  I  jumps 
over  the  counter,  and  ketches  the  weal  out  of  his  fist,  and 
claps  it  back  agin  into  the  dish.  Arterwards  I  werry  gently 
shoved  him  out  of  the  shop  ;  and  while  my  back  was  turned, 
he  fetches  me  sich  a  nasty  kick  behind,  that  I  vent  smack 
agin  a  saucepan  of  hot  weggetables." 

The  defendant,  when  called  upon  to  explain  the  aforesaid 
kick,  declared  that  the  complainant  had  not  only  com- 
menced the  assault,  but  had  used  "  wiolent  langvidge." 

"That  ere's  false,"  said  the  complainant,  "for  I'm 
always  werry  pertikeler  never  to  give  nobody  no  sarce." 

The  magistrate  considering  the  assault  proved,  fined  the 
defendant  Is.  and  discharged  him. 


Drifting  About.  171 


XL VI. 

THE  LONDON  SHOWMAN. 

The  next  thing  in  order  of  my  reminiscences  of  London 
will  be  a  sketch  of  a  personal  encounter  with  a  veritable 
"showman,"  and  the  proprietor  of  a  "  Punch  and  Judy." 

I  was  walking  on  Tower  Hill  one  morning,  when  I  saw 
a  man,  dressed  in  a  tight-fitting  spangled  dress,  endeavoring 
to  make  a  circle  among  a  crowd  of  ragged  men  and  boys 
by  throwing  a  large  ball  attached  to  a  long  rope  in  their 
midst ;  upon  going  a  little  closer,  I  found  that  a  variety  of 
performances  were  about  to  take  place. 

On  the  steps  of  a  big  one-story  yellow  house,  with  two 
windows  with  red  curtains  and  a  door  with  a  brass  knocker, 
resting  on  four  large  wheels,  some  three  or  four  feet  from 
the  ground,  stood  a  man,  of  the  most  singular  appearance, 
"hollering"  out  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  at  the  same  time 
slapping  the  side  of  the  show  with  a  short  rattan  which 
he  held  in  his  hand. 

He  was  a  sort  of  "Bill  Sykes"  looking  fellow,  and  had 
evidently  been  little  addicted  to  paying  much  attention  to 
his  toilette. 

Upon  closer  inspection,  I  noticed  he  relieved  the  mono- 
tony of  singing  out  the  nature  of  the  exhibition,  and  the 
thrashing  thereof  with  his  cane,  by  blowing  on  a  certain 
instrument,  known  in  that  locality  as  a  "  mouth  organ," 
made  of  reeds  of  different  sizes,  joined  together,  and  fixed 
in  a  leathern  case,  stuck  in  the  top  of  his  waistcoat,  imme- 
diately under  the  chin  ;  at  the  same  time,  with  both  hands 
beating  a  tremendous  drum,  and  moving  his  head,  with 
puffed-out  cheeks  and  screwed-up  mouth,  up  and  down  the 
reeds,  his  eyes  fairly  starting  from  their  sockets  with  the 
exertion  of  blowing,  and  having  the  appearance  of  a  man  in 
the  last  stage  of  strangulation. 

On  his  head  he  wore  a  very  dismal  looking  white  hat, 
with  the  crown  knocked  in,  and  a  dirty  pipe  sticking  in  the 
hatband  thereof;  a  fustian  jacket,  very  oily  and  greasy, 
covered  the  upper  part  of  his  body,  while  a  portion  of  his 


172  Drifting  About. 

fat  legs  were  encased  in  a  pair  of  highly -polished  corduroy 
knee  breeches,  the  remaining  part  being  covered  with  a 
pair  of  thick  worsted  hose,  with  laced  ankle  jacks,  and  iron 
specks  to  match. 

At  the  top  of  his  voice,  which  it  seemed  to  me  you  could 
hear  for  miles,  he  held  forth  in  something  of  the  following 
style : — 

"  Now  then — vork  up,  vork  up  'ere,  and  see  the  vonder- 
ful  '  Amabarcadoria '  or  Great  Physician  from  Bengal,  in 
the  Vest  Inges ;  he  persesses  the  most  unparalleled  and 
inestimated  medicines ;  and  can  cure  any  incident  to  huma- 
nity, from  a  corn  to  a  consumption.  We  has  a  long  list  of 
cures  he  has  performed  (hif  you'll  step  inside)  by  his  grand, 
eliptical,  Asiatical,  piratical,  puritanical,  nervio  cronio  ma- 
chine, but  will  only  read  you  three  out  of  30,000.  Here  is 
the  first : 

"  ■  Dear  Sir — I  was  jammed  to  death  in  a  linseed-oil  mill 
at  Faversham.     Cured  with  two  bottles  I' 

"And  here  is  one  which  is  the  vonderfullest  of  all. 

"  '  Venturing  too  near  the  powder  mill  at  Hammersmith, 
I  was,  by  a  sudden  explosion,  blown  into  a  million  of  atoms. 
By  this  unpleasant  and  unforeseen  haccident,  I  was  ren- 
dered quite  unfit  for  business,  which  were  a  butcher's ;  and 
hearing  of  your  grand  bilious  cordial,  I  was  required  to 
make  a  trial  thereat — when,  to  the  astonishment  of  my 
family,  the  first  bottle  united  my  stray  particles,  and  the 
second  eradicated  an  entire  cure.' 

"  Vork  up,  vork  up — this  is  the  Begular  Booth,  and  in- 
side is  the  Principal  Emperor  of  the  Carcasses  Mountains. 

"  He  can  take  a  red-hot  poker,  and  run  it  into  a  barrel  of 
gunpowder,  and  it  will  not  go  off. 

"  He  will  then  load  a  blunderbuss  with  some  of  the  den- 
tical  powder  as  would  not  explode,'1  charged  with  twelve 
ledden  bullets,  and  will  fire  it  full  in  the  face  of  any  of  the 
spectators  as  pleases,  vithout  there  being  hingered. 

^  "  He  will  borrow  half-a-crown  of  any  of  the  company, 
vitch  he  vill  never  return  to  them,  vithout  any  motive 


Drifting  About.  173 

whatever.     He  will  then  introduce  you  to  the  three  cele- 
brated brothers — 

"  Halley,  Muley,  and  Hassan,  from  the  Calaboose  Islands, 
from  which  he  was  originally  a  native.  Halley  will  take  a 
lighted  torch  in  his  hand,  and  jump  down  the  throat  of  his 
brother  Mulley,  who  will  in  his  turn  take  another  torch, 
and  jump  down  the  throat  of  his  brother  Hassan ;  and 
though  Hassan  the  elder  is  encumbered  with  the  weight  of 
his  twa  brothers,  Halley  and  Muley,  yet  he  will  take  ano- 
ther torch,  make  a  flip-flap,  and  jump  down  his  own  throat, 
leaving  us  all  in  the  dark !" 

I  could  not  stand  it  any  longer ;  so  I  went  in.  I  forgot 
to  mention,  that  on  one  side  of  the  house,  upon  a  piece  of 
canvas,  was  displayed  a  painting  of  a  "  Fat  Boy." 

Immediately  upon  entering,  the  showman,  pointing  with 
his  short  stick  to  a  perfect  mountain  of  fat,  proceeded  as 
follows : — 

"  Master  Villiam  Fiddes — or  the  Hinfant  Goliar !  He  is 
the  seventh  son  of  Joel  (that's  me)  and  Helizabeth  Fiddes, 
who  is  industrious  and  respectable  persons,  as  resides  in 
Manchester,  which  was  in  the  month  of  November  he  was 
born.  He  is  only  six  years  of  age,  and  is  considered  one 
of  the  greatest  vonders  wich  this  world  as  ever  produced 
by  the  Supreme  Being.  Ladies  and  gentlemen,  when  this 
Fenominer  of  nature  were  born,  he  had  four  regular  teeth, 
and  very  shortly  after  that  possessed  twenty-two  teeth. 

"  He  is  a  remarkable  helthy  child  when  he  is  well,  and 
is  very  amusing,  and  possessed  of  very  pretty  features. — 
(Show  the  gents  your  leg,  Billy.) 

"  His  food  consists  of  a  common  and  wholesome  descrip- 
tion, and  is  generally  boiled  in  hot  water,  as  the  doctor  says 
his  hinside  requires  soft  things,  and  is  considered  the  great- 
est wonder  of  the  world.  It  would  be  morally  unpossible 
to  describe  everything  belonging  to  this  great  wonder  of 
nature,  as  he  is  endowed  with  every  necessary  qualification 
vich  adorns  the  human  frame,  as  such  should  be  produced, 
and  is  mild,  sensible,  and  pleasant. 

41  This  wonder  of  thousands  has  been  universally  admired 
by  all  classes  in  the  kingdom  for  his  gigantic  proportions— 


l74 


Drifting  About. 


(show  your  bust,  Billy !) — which  hexceed  to  a  pre-himinent 
degree  any  other  of  the  human  species  in  the  universe." 

Stepping  down,  he  desired  me  to  look  through  the  hole 
of  a  peep  show  box,  resting  on  tressels,  magnifying  several 
highly-wrought  colored  engravings. 

"  Now  then  (said  he),  vipe  your  noses,  and  don't  breathe 
upon  the  glasses.  First  scene  in  the  grand  mis-representa- 
tion of  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  Look  to  the  right,  and  there 
you  may  perceive  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Vellingtine 
mounted  on  a  vite  hontire.  To  the  left  you  will  see  Town 
Major  White  all  in  the  act  of  delivering  despatches  to  his 
Grace.  Says  Town  Major  White — says  he,  '  Lead  on  your 
troops  to  wictoree,  or  b'  dad  you'll  lose  the  day.'  Says 
Yelentine — says  he,  'D'ye  think  I'm  a  going  to  be  dic- 
tated to  by  the  likes  of  you,  all  on  these  'ere  plains  of  Vor- 
terloo  ?    No !  I'll  be if  I  do !' 


% 


"  Next  is — Grand  Fight  between  the  Scotch  Lion  Vallace 
and  Six  English  Bulldogs,  for  fifteen  thousand  sovereigns 
aside.  To  the  right  you  may  perceive  the  properietor  of 
the  lions  a-encouraging  hof  they.     To  the  left  you  may  per- 


Drifting  About.  175; 

ceive  the  properietors  of  the  dogs  a-encouraging  of  those. 
There  you  will  see  von  of  the  dogs  nibbled  in  the  rear  by 
the  lion,  vile  he  is  a  visking  out  the  hye  of  another  vith  his 
fiery  tail. 

"Eighteen  thousand  spectators  is  a  looking  on  in  the 
most  magnanimous  and  facetious  manner ;  the  whole  form- 
ing a  grand  and  malignant  spectacle  never  vitnessed  in  this 
or  any  other  country. 

"  Next  is — The  Greenland  Vale  Fishery.  See  the  man 
a  standing  at  the  brow  of  the  boat — strikes  the  vale  vith  the 
arpoon — vile  the  vale  is  a  making  off  for  the  land,  a  sprout- 
ing up  blood  and  vorter,  infinitely  higher  than  the  man's  ed 
to  the  left. 

"Next  is — The  Cock  Pit  of  His  Eoyal  Majesty's  Line-of- 
battle  Ship  Wictory,  of  1029  hundred  tons,  at  the  memora- 
ble occasion  of  the  battle  of  Traffalgar,  February  57,  1488. 
Look  into  the  hole  of  the  ship,  and  there  you  will  see  His 
Eoyal  Highness  Lord  Nelson  in  the  hagonies  of  death,  sur- 
mounted by  the  principal  Hossifers  of  His  Majesty's  Fleet, 
assisted  by  a  Corpse  of  Eyal  Moreens;  vilst  in  the  back 
ground  the  crew  is  otley  pursued  by  the  henemy,  the  Had- 
miral  of  the  French  Fleet  in  the  hact  of  horling  down  the 
colors  to  the  flower  of  the  British  Navuy,  vitch  forms  the 
alligator  of  Brittania  Bules  the  Vaves ! 

"  Next  is — The  North  Pole  at  Sunrise !  as  seen  by  that 
celebrated  Navigation  Captain  Cook,  B.N.,  of  the  Eoyal 
Navuy,  drawn  upon  the  spot  by  a  beutiful  and  genteel 
young  lady,  only  seventeen  years  of  age,  who  fell  a  lifeless 
wictim  to  the  infernal  arts  of  a  wiley  she  bear,  one  of  the 
properietors  of  that  icy  region, — sent  down  for  that  express 
purpuos  by  His  Eoyal  Highness  George  3,  vich  God  perse- 
vere to  the  right. 

"  To  the  left  there  is  a  party  of  hardy  tars  attaches  the 
bear  behind  his  rear  unbeknown  to  him,  corsing  him  to  for- 
go his  lovely  and  accomplished  victim,  vich  am  sure  of,  and 
his  lifeless  tract  is  a  crimsoned  vith  his  gorge ;  vilst  in  che 
back  ground  there  is  a  party  of  shemale  cubs,  a  congregating 
after  their  manner,  a  sucking  of  their  offensive  young,  re- 


176  Drifting  About. 

gardless  of  their  future  destination  or  revord,  which  nature 
has  produced. 

"Next  is— Battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  Look  to  the  left 
and  there  you  will  perceive  His  Koyal  Highness  Lord  Vash- 
ingtine  of  America  a  buttoning  up  his  royal  coat  and  a  bob- 
bing up  his  hed  up  and  down,  in  order  to  awoid  the  canon 
balls  (small  blame  to  his  reverence !)" 

(Little  boy  sings  out)  "  Please,  sir,  vitch  is  General  Vash- 
ington.     I  can't  see !" 

To  which  the  showman  replied — "Jim,  bring  up  that 
piece  of  shammy  leather  and  vipe  this  boy's  glass.  He  can't 
see!" 


XLVII. 

PUNCH  AND  JUDY. 

I  had  been  for  several  days  listening  in  vain  for  the  well- 
remembered  cry  (a  sort  of  cross  between  the  shrill -squeak 
of  a  pig  and  a  penny  trumpet)  that  invariably  precedes  the 
approach  of  a  Punch  and  Judy,  when  one  morning,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Manchester  Square,  I  suddenly  pounced  upon 
one. 

I  was  delighted.     I  had  not  seen  one  since  I  was  a  bo}^. 


Drifting  About.  177 

But  then  there  was  no  audience.  In  vain  did  the  showman, 
having  slipped  from  his  shoulders  his  portable  play-house, 
and  looking  up  and  down  the  square,  and  up  at  the  win- 
dows of  the  houses,  announce  to  the  inhabitants  his  arrival. 
Nobody  appeared.  At  last  I  stepped  up  to  him,  and  asked 
him  how  much  he'd  "  show  "  for? 

This  seemed  to  surprise  him  ;  when,  eyeing  me  from  head 
to  foot,  he  replied — 

"  Veil,  seeing  as  'ow  you're  all  by  yourself,  I'll  give  you 
the  whole  thing  for  eighteen  pence,  cos  I  may  pick  up  a  few 
'a'pence  besides." 

To  this  I  assented ;  and  accordingly  he  jumped  inside  of 
the  show  box,  and  let  down  the  curtains. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  of  my  readers  who  have  not  seen 
one  of  those  "institutions,"  I  will  endeavor  to  give  a  brief 
description. 

It  appears,  as  I  was  informed,  that  they  first  made  their 
appearance  in  the  streets  of  London  in  the  reign  of  Charles 
the  Second  ;  and  have  a  charter  from  that  monarch,  giving 
them  the  privilege  of  exhibiting  in  any  portion  of  the  city 
without  molestation. 

The  consequence  is,  that  their  audiences  present  a  pretty 
miscellaneous  appearance,  and  are  generally  attentive  and 
quiet,  consisting  of  fogies  (old  and  young),  chambermaids, 
nursery  maids,  servants  (in  and  out  of  livery),  boys  and  girls 
(of  every  age  and  size),  and  now  and  then  a  stray  policeman. 

The  show  is  about  eight  feet  high  and  three  feet  wide, 
made  light,  and  very  portable.  A  box,  containing  the 
movable  figures,  consisting  of  Punch,  his  Judy,  the  Doctor, 
Nurse,  Undertaker,  Thief,  Grave-digger,  etc.,  as  also  the 
Gallows,  Coffin,  Houses,  Watchman,  and  other  characters 
and  "  fixings,"  is  usually  carried  by  another  man,  who 
assists  in  the  performance  outside  by  asking  and  answering 
the  questions  of  Mr.  Punch  et  al.  inside. 

The  top  part  of  the  show  represents  a  stage,  the  figures 
of  which  are  worked  by  a  man  inside  with  wires,  upon  which 
appear  in  quick  succession  Mr.  Punch,  with  a  big  stick  in 
his  arm,  Mrs.  Judy,  with  a  dirty  cap  on,  who  is  instantly 
greeted  by  her  lord  and  master  with  several  whacks,  with 
the  big  stick  aforesaid,  on  the  back  of  her  wooden  head,  one 
blow  of  which  on  an  ordinary  skull  would  be  "  death  to 


178  Drifting  About. 

nature."  She,  however,  rises  immediately,  as  if  refreshed 
by  this  gentle  memento  of  her  lord's  affection,  and  seizing 
the  stick  from  his  hand,  commences  wolloping  him  in  the 
same  style.  In  vain  Punch  hollers  out  peccavi.  She's  got 
the  upper  hand  now,  and  continues  to  pommel  him  most 
unmercifully.  The  audience  are  in  ecstasies.  The  usual 
striking  scenes  of  a  five-act  melodrama  take  place.  A  house 
is  erected,  containing  one  door  and  a  window ;  the  latch  is 
thrown  open,  a  head  pops  out  from  the  second  story,  and 
disappears  immediately  beneath  the  heavy  blow  of  a  stick 
from  a  wooden  man  in  the  street,  who  is  seized  by  a  wooden 
watchman,  with  a  dark  lantern  made  of  paper.  In  the 
course  of  the  play,  somebody  is  killed,  and  the  murderer 
happening  to  be  Mr.  Punch,  he  is  sentenoed  to  be  hung.  A 
gallows  is  erected,  and  the  murderer  executed,  and  after- 
wards placed  in  a  coffin.  At  this  critical  juncture,  when 
the  audience  suppose  him  to  be  really  defunct — he  jumps 
up,  gets  hold  of  his  stick,  and  knocks  down  parson,  under- 
taker, and  his  weeping  relatives,  friends,  gallows,  and  all — 
makes  a  bow  to  the  audience — gives  a  farewell  w-eeeeekk  ! 
and  the  play  is  over;  and  he  jumps  into  his  box,  to  delight 
another  portion  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  big  city. 

The  following  is  not  a  portrait  of  Punch,  but  the  latest 
carte  de  visite  of  a  civil  old  fellow  immortalized  on  page 
181. 


Drifting  About.  179 


XLVIIL 

SOMETHING  ABOUT  LONDON  BOYS. 

The  "  showman"  is  generally  followed  by  a  crowd  of 
boys— and  it  seems  to  me  that  London  boys  are  as  peculiar 
to  their  locality  as  the  Palm  is  to  the  East. 

They  delight,  especially  in  "  Fisticuffs"  and  "  Punch  and 
Judys," — very  fond  of  rabbits  and  birds,  white  mice,  and 
pigeons ;  always  out  of  the  elbows,  addicted  to  screeching, 
whistling  and  singing,  great  proficients  on  the  Jew's  Harp, 
faultless  at  peg  in  the  ring ;  able  to  knuckle  down  before 
all  other  boys  in  the  universe ;  fond  to  destruction  of 
apple-peel  and  pocket-knives,  tyrants  over  their  juniors, 
but  plucky  to  their  seniors ;  born  with  a  very  great  con- 
tempt for  young  swells,  and  all  descriptions  of  old  ladies ; 
witty  beyond  their  years,  and  as  vagrant  as  the  London 
sparrows  for  which  they  set  traps  upon  the  smoky  house- 
tops ;  they  may  be  found  in  swarms  wherever  there  is  a 
sight,  or  an  accident,  or  a  water-cock  turned  on.  They 
delight  in  everything  dangerous.  You  may  see  them  run- 
ning their  hardest  along  a  parapet,  or  climbing  over  the 
spiked  railings  of  the  park.  Keen  sportsmen,  they  wander 
with  an  old  tin  shaving-pot,  a  short  stick,  thread  and  hook, 
to  enjoy  a  day's  fishing  for  stickle-backs  in  the  Hampstead 
ponds.  They  are  the  mortal  enemies  of  butterflies  and 
cockroaches.  Democrats  to  the  heart's  core,  they  keep  up 
an  incessant  warfare  against  boys  of  gentle  birth.  They 
glory  in  their  corduroy.  The  vagrant  habit  that  in  after- 
life will  prove  their  curse,  and  accomplish  their  fall,  grows 
fast  upon  them.  The  want  of  their  parents  makes  them 
old  as  soon  as  they  can  walk.  Sent  to  fetch  the  beer,  when 
other  and  more  fortunate  children  are  laughing  upon  gaily 
painted  rocking-horses — taught  to  look  sharply  upon  the 
world,  to  see  that  they  get  good  weight  and  full  pints ; 
cuffed  for  every  fault,  and  rewarded  for  any  service  by  the 
permission  to  play  about  the  streets — they  are  as  wild  as 
the  offspring  01  the  woods. 


l8o  Drifting  About. 


XLIX. 

KENILWORTH  CASTLE. 

I  had  been  greatly  fascinated  when  a  boy  by  the  delight- 
ful description  in  the  "Sketch  Book"  of  Washington  Irving, 
of  his  visit  to  "  Stratford-upon-Avon,''  and  had  long  che- 
rished the  idea  of  paying  my  individual  respects  to  the 
landlady  of  the  "  Grolden  Lion  Inn."  Accordingly  on  a 
bright  June  morning,  I  took  the  train  from  London  to 
Coventry,  en  route  to  Kenilworth,  Warwick,  and  Strat- 
ford. 

Stopped  at  Coventry  just  long  enough  to  see  the  old- 
fashioned  looking  house  of  "  Peeping  Tom,"  and  take  a 
glass  of  "home-brewed,"  and  I  thought  I'd  take  a  quiet 
stroll  towards  the  primitive  town  of  Kenilworth. 

The  walk  from  this  point  to  Warwick  was  indeed  lovely 
— the  distance,  I  think,  about  five  miles — the  whole  country 
looked  like  a  magnificent  flower-garden — the  quiet  depths 
of  the  meadows,  and  the  mossy  roots  of  ancient  trees,  with 
their  bright  leaves  waving  on  high  their  "  plumes  of  green  ;" 
the  sheep-bells  tinkled  in  the  distance,  the  cowslips,  butter- 
cup, and  primroses,  peeped  up  to  greet  me  as  I  passed  ;  the 
sweetest  little  marygolds  gemmed  the  ground  in  every  direc- 
tion— lovely  daisies  with  a  pupil  of  gold,  and  an  iris  of  snow- 
white  petals,  like  a  pale  glory  surrounding  it,  followed  in 
its  wake  by  the  sweet  violet,  accompanied  by  a  trumpet- 
shaped  flower,  of  delicate  construction,  and  of  a  pale  blue 
color,  that  held  up  its  slender  head  with  a  decidedly  elegant 
and  thorough-bred  air, — dotted  about  here  and  there  was  a 
little  red  flower  that  crimsoned  with  a  blush  much  richer 
than  the  reddest  coral,  as  I  crushed  its  dew-charged  leaves 
beneath  my  careless  tread — then  there  were  some  little 
meek  white  flowers  nestling  modestly  away  in  the  shelter- 
ing grass,  betraying  their  graceful  presence  by  a  languid 
perfume,  faint,  but  very  sweet ; — then  came  the  cottages, 
with  the  pretty  little  gardens  in  front, -^-and  the  roses 
creeping  round   the  porches, — the  bleating  of  the   little 


Drifting  About.  18 


lambs — and  from  this  lovely  spot,  over  which  leaned  th 
uplifted  blue  of  a  cloudless  sky,  a  world  of  bright-winged 
things  sent  up  their  hymn  of  praise ! 

And  now  a  "  word  or"  so  about  Kenil worth  and  its 
renowned  "  Castle." 

Most  interesting  was  my  ramble  through  the  venerable 
remains  of  the  once  magnificent  dwelling  of  Royalty,  and  it 
seemed  to  me  there  could  not  be  one  more  deserving  of 
notice,  or  more  worthy  the  admiration  of  the  lover  of  pic- 
turesque beauty  than  this  same  Kenilworth  Castle. 

I  entered  at  a  little  gate,  inside  of  which  was  a  sort  of 
"  porter's  lodge,"  and  there  I  found  a  very  civil  sort  of 
spoken  old  fellow,  who  at  every  word  kept  touching  his 
hat,  replying  to  my  numerous  questions  in  the  most  obse- 
quious manner. 

The  principal  places  pointed  out  to  me  were — The  Inner 
Court— and  "Grand  Court,"  Caesar  Tower— The  Three 
Kitchens — The  Strong  Tower — King  Henry's  Lodgings — 
Sir  Robert  Dudley's  Lobbv — The  Presence  Chamber — The 
Great  Hall,  or  Banqueting  Room — Mortimer's  Tower 
— Secret  Postern — The  Swan  Tower— "Amy  Robsart's 
Bower" — The  Plaisance,  etc. 

Here  then,  I  thought,  had  walked,  driven,  rode,  sat, 
eaten,  slept,  drank,  laughed,  scolded,  frowned,  and  smiled 
the  haughty  Queen  Elizabeth — my  thoughts  flew  thick  and 
fast. 

I  was  imagining  what  sort  of  a  looking  cove  the  Earl  of 
Leicester  was,  when  a  vision  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  spread- 
ing that  velvet  coat  out  for  the  Queen  to  walk  on,  would 
come  to  me.  I  had  hardly  thought  of  this,  when  phan- 
toms of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Rebecca,  Amy  Robsart — and 
even,  the  "  Bowery  Theatre !"  Blount,  Tressilian,  etc., 
floated  in  my  brain — and  I  seemed  thus  as  if  by  some  spell, 
to  be  brought  in  close  review  with  the  halls,  the  ceremonies, 
the  tournaments,  the  banquets,  the  domestic  usages,  of 
people  who  had  lived  hundreds  of  years  ago  ! 

The  scenery  around  and  about  Kenilworth  is,  as  I  have 
before  said,  beautiful.  On  the  night  of  my  arrival  all  was 
quiet  repose  and  rural  beauty,  beaming  with  cheerfulness 
and  felicity,  and  though  the  Castle  of  Kenilworth  is  now 
only  a  pile  of  venerable  ruins,  still  it  is  magnificent  in  its 


■? 


182  Drifting  About. 

decay,  and  still  the  glory  and  the  pride  of  the  place  in 
which  it  stands. 


WARWICK  CASTLE. 

On  reaching  the  little  town  of  "  Warwick,"  I  quickly 
"  made"  for  the  "  Castle."  Upon  arriving  in  the  town  I 
was  told  I  should  find  it  very  difficult  to  gain  admittance, 
as  it  was  after  the  hour  that  visitors  were  allowed  to  enter. 
I  thought,  however,  I'd  try — accordingly  I  rattled  away  at 
an  immense  lion-headed  knocker — three  times  as  large  as 
any  "  Lord's"  in  Grosvenor  square — and  the  big  gate  quietly 
opened — a  very  pleasant  old  lady  presenting  herself  at  the 
entrance. 

She  said  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  see  the  Castle  that 
day — as  the  "  Earl  of  Warwick"  was  not  at  all  well.  I 
then  asked  her  if  she  would  take  my  "card"  to  his  "Lord- 
ship," upon  the  back  of  which  I  wrote  as  follows : 

u  An  American  would  feel  greatly  obliged  by  the  Earl 
of  Warwick's  permission  to  take  a  hasty  (plate  of  soup  I 
would  have  liked,  for  I  was  mighty  hungry) — glance  at  the 
Castle,  as  he  will  soon  leave  for  America,  and  not  probably 
visit  Warwick  again." 

This  had  the  desired  effect — for  having  waited  in  the 
"Lodge"  some  time,  my  female  friend  returned  with  his 
Lordship's  permission. 

Away  I  went  through  bright  yellow  gravel  walks,  rows 
of  stately  trees,  bowers  of  loveliness,  fragrance,  and  beauty, 
until  reaching  another  gateway,  and  descending  a  flight  of 
steps,  a  large  door  was  opened,  by  a  very  good-looking, 
portly,  grey-headed  man — the  steward — who  told  me  his 
name  was  "  Gregory,"  and  that  he  had  been  in  the  Earl's 
service  fourteen  years. 

This  magnificent  castle  is  one  of  the  noblest  specimens  of 
ancient  grandeur,  I  am  told,  that  England  now  possesses, 
and  is  of  extreme  antiquity. 

The  approach  to  the  outer  court  of  the  Castle,  is  through 


Drifting  About.  183 

a  winding  road  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  extending  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  yards,  the  sides  of  which  are  most 
luxuriantly  draperied  with  evergreens,  ivy,  etc. 

This  emerges  into  an  open  space  covered  with  vegetation, 
from  amidst  which  the  two  turrets  rise  frowningly  from  a 
slight  eminence,  and  with  a  degree  of  wildness  in  the 
scenery  around,  that  indeed  raised  nr  me  a  feeling  of 
awe. 

An  embattled  wall,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  gate- 
way, flanked  by  towers,  and  surrounded  by  another  bris- 
tling arch,  connects  the  two  towers.  I  went  over  the  draw- 
bridge, through  the  gateway,  which  is  beautifully  clothed 
with  ivy,  entering  a  passage  which  ushered  me  into  the 
"  Inner  Court,"  where  a  scene  novel  and  bewildering  was 
presented  to  me.  Then  I  came  to  what  they  called  the 
"  Keep"  or  "  Mount,"  crowned  with  battlemented  walls,  and 
interspersed  with  a  verdant  mass  of  foliage.  To  the  left 
was  the  inhabited  portion  of  the  Castle  with  quite  a  modern 
entrance.  Then  I  saw  the  large  windows  of  the  Chapel, 
and  to  the  right  the  massive  walls  which  bound  the  soft  and 
verdant  sward  in  their  inclosure. 

I  entered  the  Castle  through  the  great  hall,  leading  to  the 
suite  of  apartments  shown  to  the  visitor,  containing  paint- 
ings of  extraordinary  beauty  and  value  of  Vandyke, 
Rubens,  Michael  Angelo,  and  any  quantity  of  curiosi- 
ties, etc. 

While  walking  about  this  room,  a  servant  entered  carry- 
ing in  her  arms  an  infant  of  some  four  months  old.  "  That," 
said  the  steward — "  is  the  future  heir  to  the  estate."  If  he 
lives  he  will  be  the  "  Earl  of  Warwick."  It  was  the  infant 
child  of  Lord  Brooke,  the  son  of  the  (then)  present  Earl. 
The  nurse  let  me  take  the  future  Earl  in  my  arms.  I  patted 
his  pretty  face,  said  unintelligible  things  to  it,  and  it  ended 
in  the  young  'un's  setting  up  a  squall  like  the  war-cry  of  a 
Tuscarora  brave. 

Among  many  articles  of  interest,  I  was  shown  here  the 
saddle  used  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  when  going  to  Kenilworth, 
the  Virginal  (or  Harpsichord)  given  to  her  by  the  Earl  of 
Leicester,  with  the  Royal  Arms  of  England  on  it,  it  is  a 
very  curious  instrument,  somewhat  resembling  a  banjo — 
a  pistol  given  the  present  Earl  by  Col.  Colt  of  Hartford. 


184  Drifting  About. 

Queen   Elizabeth's   silver  dagger — as  also  the  bed  upon 
which  Queen  Ann  reposed. 


LI. 

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON. 

And  now  for  my  pretty  little  village  of  Stratford. 

How  I  peered  out  for  that  "  Spire"  of  the  church,  where 
rest  the  remains  of  the  immortal  poet.  How  I  was  charmed 
with  the  perfect  quiet — the  repose,  the  tranquillity  of  every- 
thing as  we  entered  the  village,  so  beautifully  described 
by  my  friend  Mr.  Brady,  in  a  speech  that  he  made  two 
years  before — at  the  Dramatic  Fund  Dinner, — as  being 
"  asleep !"  for  so  indeed  to  me  it  appeared. 

How  charming  the  quiet  of  the  cozy  little  front  parlor, 
of  the  pleasant  little  inn  ycleped  the  "Golden  Lion,  kept 
by  a  right  merry  fellow  I  assure  you,  Mr.  Henry  Heartly 
by  name,  and  who  very  kindly  offered  to  be  my  pioneer  to 
the  places  of  interest  in  and  about  the  village. 

Accordingly  I  first  went  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  "  Eed 
Horse,"  or  rather  to  the  little  parlor  thereof,  immortalized 
by  Washington  Irving  in  his  Sketch-Book,  and  as  all  good 
travellers  ought  to  do,  asked  for  the  celebrated  "  poker" 
which  he  called  his  "  sceptre." 

The  landlady  very  good-naturedly  said,  "Oh,  sir !  I'll 
fetch  the  poker  immediately,  all  the  Americans  wish  to 
see  that — but  I  have  to  lock  it  up  to  preserve  it !" 

Presently  she  brought  it  in,  with  all  the  pomp  and 
ceremony  imaginable — having  the  words  "  GeofFry  Crayon's 
sceptre"  engraved  on  it. 

After  wetting  our  lips  with  a  draught  of  mild  ale,  we 
returned  to  the  "  Golden  Lion,"  (tourists,  make  a  note  and 
stop  there)  and  dined. 

My  landlord  has  the  most  perfect  collection  of  theatrical 
portraits  perhaps  in  England — upon  the  walls  of  the  room 
in  which  I  was  sitting,  I  noticed  .paintings  of  the  elder 
Wallack,  Edwin  Forrest,  Macready,  Kean,  Booth,  Char- 
lotte Cushman,  Charles  Kean,  Ellen  Tree,  Farren,  Faucett, 
Mathews,  Elliston,  etc.,  etc. 


Drifting  About.  185 

After  dinner  we  strolled  to  the  house  where  the  "  Poet 
was  born  ;"  reaching  it — I  stood  for  some  minutes  gazing 
with  admiration  and  wonder. 

On  a  board,  on  a  mean-looking  edifice  in  Henly  street 
are  rudely  painted  the  words : — 

"  The  immortal  Shakspeare  was  born  in  this  house." 

I  passed  into  the  little  shop,  a  dismal  apartment  indeed, 
with  rough  stone  pavement,  and  a  lot  of  old  iron  hooks 
sticking  in  the  wall — the  place  seemed  to  be  about  eight 
feet  square — presently  out  popped  a  little  woman — a  Mrs. 
Stanley ;  quite  a  pleasant  chatty  body — very  amusing 
indeed,  and  she  really  seemed  to  take  great  pains  in  de- 
scribing the  relics. 

She  said :  u  There  'av  been  four  or  five  hof  your  country- 
men ere  to  day,  sur.  Some  werry  nice  people,  sur — you're 
from  Hamerica,  sur,  I  think — haint  yar?"  I  assented.  "I 
knowed  it,  sur,  by  your  'at ;  you'll  hexcuse  me,  sur,  but 
the  Mericans  wear  such  broad  rimmed  'ats."  We  then  went 
up  a  narrow  dingy  staircase  to  the  chamber  where  William 
Shakspeare  first  saw  the  light,  on  the  morning  of  April  23, 
1564. 

It  is  a  moderate-sized  apartment,  very  low  roofed  and 
dirty,  having  but  one  large  window  in  it ;  every  inch  of 
the  wall,  the  door,  the  ceiling,  and  indeed  every  available 
place  was  covered  with  names;  she  pointed  out  to  me, 
Edmund  Kean's,  Schiller's,  Lord  Byron's,  Sir  Walter 
Scott's,  Washington  Irving's,  Tennyson's,  etc.  I  tried  to  find 
a  place  whereon  to  "  fix"  my  humble  name,  but  my  pencil 
broke  when  I  commenced  the  "  M,"  and  it  led  me  to  think 
of  the  folly  of  it. 

How  great  the  difference,  I  thought  to  myself,  between  the 
proud  walls  and  towering  heights  of  the  Castle  I  had  just 
visited,  and  this  humble  dwelling!  and  yet,  when  even 
they  shall  fall  beneath  the  destroying  hand  of  Time,  and 
crumble  into  nothingness,  will  this  little  spot  be  worshipped, 
cherished,  and  revered — and  his  great  memory  be  as  green 
and  fresh  in  the  hearts  of  all,  as  when  first  his  bright  genius 
flashed  upon  the  world ! 

Among  the  few  articles  of  furniture  in  the  house — none 
of  which  can  be  considered  as  belonging  to  the  home  of 
Shakspeare — is  a  chair  whose  history  has  been    admira- 


186  Drifting  About. 

bly  drawn  by  Washington  Irving  in  the  following 
words : 

"  The  most  favorite  object  of  curiosity,  however,  is 
Shakspeare's  chair.  It  stands  in  the  chimney  corner  of  a 
small  gloomy  chamber,  just  behind  what  was  his  father's 
shop.  Here  he  may  many  a  time  have  sat,  when  a  boy, 
watching  the  slowly -revolving  spit  with  all  the  longing  of 
an  urchin,  or  of  an  evening  listened  to  the  cronies  and 
gossips  of  Stratford  dealing  forth  churchyard  tales  and 
legendary  anecdotes  of  the  troublesome  times  of  England. 
In  this  chair  it  is  the  custom  of  every  one  that  visits  the 
house  to  sit ;  whether  this  be  done  with  the  hope  of  im- 
bibing any  of  the  inspiration  of  the  bard  I  am  at  a  loss  to 
say — I  merely  mention  the  fact ;  and  mine  hostess  privately 
assured  me  that  though  built  of  solid  oak,  such  was  the 
fervent  zeal  of  devotees  that  it  had  to  be  new-bottomed  at 
least  once  in  three  years.  It  is  worthy  of  notice,  also,  in 
the  history  of  this  remarkable  chair,  that  it  partakes  some- 
thing of  the  volatile  nature  of  the  Santa  Casa  of  Loretto,  or 
the  flying  chair  of  the  Arabian  enchanter,  for  though  sold 
to  a  Russian  princess,  yet,  strange  to  say,  it  has  found  its 
way  back  again  to  the  old  chimney  corner." 

We  visited  the  Grammar  School,  in  which  it  is  presumed 
he  received  his  education.  Saw  the  desk  at  which  he  sat, 
the  scenes  of  his  youthful  meditations — the  sports,  familiar 
to  him  in  early  and  mature  life,: — the  site  of  the  house, 
where,  with  a  sufficient  income,  he  passed  his  latter  years — 
and  the  church  where  his  mortal  remains  were  consigned  to 
the  grave. 

I  was  then  introduced  to  a  Mr.  Thomas  Heritage,  who  is 
the  fortunate  possessor  of  the  "  Marble  Fount,"  used  at  the 
christening  of  Shakspeare. 

It  is  indeed  a  rare  curiosity — kept  at  the  end  of  his  pretty 
little  garden,  and  as  is  the  custom,  we  drank  from  it  some 
wine,  I  (with  his  permission)  cutting  from  the  pedestal 
some  moss  for  presents. 

No  money  would  buy  this  extraordinary  relic :  he  has 
been  offered  for  it  large  sums  at  different  times. 

Leaving  the  very  friendly  roof  of  Mr.  Heartly,  I  heard  a 
man  crying  out  something  about  an  "  auction  sale  ;"  and 
having,  once  upon  a  time,  done  a  little  in  that  line  in  Sacra- 


Drifting  About.  187 

mento,  I  thought  I  would  at  least  look  on  in  Stratford ;  and 
now,  to  give  you — or  Austins  and  Spicer,  or  Priests,  Wil- 
merding  and  Mount,  of  your  city — some  idea  of  the  im- 
mense trade  of  this  quiet  little  nook,  I  intend  giving  you  a 
verbatim  copy  of  the  bill  of  sale  at  the  aforesaid  auction. 
Here  it  is  : — 

"  UNICORN  INN," 

B3F*" Stratford  upon  Avon.^^gQ 
TO    B$    SOLD   AT    AUCTION, 

BY   MR.    BROWN, 
ON  WEDNESDAY  JUNE  22d,  1858, 

The  following  valuable  property  ! 
viz.  : 

1.  A  pair  of  Gents  Black  Slippers. 

2.  A  driving  Rug. 

3.  One  Carpet  Bag  complete. 

4.  Shaving  Box  and  Brushes. 

5.  One  pair  of  Braces — 3  Shirts — 4  Collars — 2  pairs  of 
Stockings — 3  new  Maps — 1  Warming-pan — 1  Boot-jack- — 
a  Toasting-fork ! — a  Gridiron,  and  a  map  of  Scotland,  New 
York,  and  the  East  Indies. 

Cards  of  admission  to  see  the  goods,  to  be  had  on  imme- 
diate application  to  Mr.  William  Savage. 

We  then  went  to  "  Anne  Hathaway's  Cottage."  Crossing 
the  fields  to  the  west  of  Stratford,  by  a  well-frequented 
footpath,  brought  us  to  the  sweet  little  hamlet  of  Shottery. 

Ob !  how  beautiful  it  looked,  with  its  green  lane,  pictu- 
resque, timber-ribbed,  thatched  cottages,  babbling  rush- 
fringed  brook,  and  pretty  wooden  bridge.  The  house  is  of 
timber  and  brick,  two  stories,  with  thatched  roof,  and  looks 
like  two  joined  together.  I  looked  up  the  central  chimney, 
and  saw  the  letters  I.  H.,  1697.  Up  stairs  I  was  shown  an 
old  carved  bedstead,  of  the  real  old  Elizabethan  period, 
supposed  to  be  the  one  upon  which  Anne  Hathaway  slept. 
The  room  below  shows  traces  of  the  good  old  times ;  the 
rude  stone  floor,  low  ceiling,  heavy  beams,  oaken  wainscot, 
and  rough  plastering.  The  wide  fire-place,  with  the  cozy 
chimney  corners  and  supporting  beams,  where  the  wooa- 
fires  must  have  often  crackled  and  blazed  on  the  ample 
hearth.  Here,  too,  was  the  seat,  with  the  straight  high 
back,  that  rested  on  the  porch  outside  the  cottage,  now 
quite  porous  with  age  —  upon  which  ofttimes,  doubtless, 


188  Drifting  About. 

during  the  long  summer  nights,  did  our  poet  and  his  first 
love  while  away  the  hours ;  and  who  knows,  but  upon  this 
very  bench,  some  of  the  most  impassioned  of  his  verses 
might  have  been  written. 

In  coming  back  to  the  town,  T  strolled  by  the  banks  of 
the  Avon — crossing  the  river  near  to  the  church,  in  the 
chancel  of  which  rest  his  remains.  It  stands  on  the  margin 
of  the  river  Avon.  You  approach  it  through  a  long 
avenue  of  lime  trees,  the  boughs  of  which  are  so  interwoven, 
as  to  produce  a  striking  colonnade,  and  the  effect  is  pecu- 
liarly pleasing.  To-day  the  weather  was  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful; little  children  were  playing  in  the  grave-yard,  and 
dancing  on  the  tomb-stones — the  pleasant  low  murmuring 
of  the  river  was  grateful  to  the  ear — boys  were  fishing  in 
the  stream,  and  birds  were  carolling  away  from  the  branches 
of  the  bright  green  trees ;  and  as  I  for  the  last  time  looked 
up  at  the  pretty  spire,  towering  to  the  skies,  I  thought  of 
the  graphic  words  of  Washington  Irving,  in  his  well  known 
"  Sketch  Book" — which,  if  I  do  not  quite  correctly  subjoin, 
I  most  humbly  beg  pardon,  but  I  fancied  them  somewhat 
appropriate : — "  How  would  it  have  cheered  the  spirit  of 
the  youthful  bard,  when,  wandering  forth  in  disgrace  upon 
a  doubtful  world,  he  cast  back  a  heavy  look  upon  his 
paternal  home,  could  he  have  foreseen  that  before  many 
years  he  should  return  to  it  covered  with  renown ;  and  that 
lessening  sjnre,  on  which  his  eyes  were  fixed  in  tearful  con- 
templation, should  one  day  become  the  beacon,  towering 
amidst  the  gentle  landscape,  to  light  the  literary  pilgrim  of 
every  nation  to  his  tomb  !" 

It  had  grown  quite  dusk  by  the  time  we  returned  to  our 
little  inn — the  stillness  of  death  reigned  around — by  and 
by  the  moon  was  sweetly  smiling  through  my  pretty  gothic 
window,  on  the  sills  of  which  were  some  plants  of  geranium 
and  mignonette,  and  the  fragrance  of  them  was  sweet  to 
me — and  I  felt  more  and  more  the  beauty  of  my  friend's 
words,  that  the  little  village  of  Stratford  upon  Avon  was — 
asleep ! 

In  the  book  kept  in  the  bed-room  at  Anne  Hathaway's 
cottage,  for  the  registering  the  names  of  visitors,  I  found 
the  following : 


Drifting  About.  189 

July  13th,  1849.  E.  L.  Davenport,  America;  Fanny  E. 
Vining,  London  ;  Anna  Cora  Mo  watt,  New  York ;  James 
Mowatt,  New  York. 

"  The  three  Americans  above  named  hold  their  pilgrim- 
age so  far,  as  lightsome  and  gay  to  find  so  much  reward 
in  being  able  to  view  all  these  early  associations  of  the 
'immortal  bard'  in  tlieir  land,  if  possible  more  adored  than 
here.  In  the  above  sentiments,  the  true  born  English 
woman  ;  Fanny,'  begs  to  join  heart  and  soul." — Good  ! 


LII. 

THE   "GARRJCK  CLUB." 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  elected  an  "  honorary  mem- 
ber" of  this  celebrated  club,  after  a  pleasant  introduction  to 
some  of  the  members  by  Mr.  A.  Arcedeckne,  known  as  the 
"  Commodore,"  and  certainly  some  of  the  most  agreeable 
hours  were  passed  by  me  there. 

The  Club  is  situated  in  Hart  Street,  Covent  Garden, 
and  has  more  the  appearance  of  an  old-fashioned  private 
residence  than  anything  else.  Inside  the  appointments  are 
most  comfortable  and  luxurious.  Here  you  can  breakfast 
and  dine  in  the  most  gorgeous  style  imaginable,  and  not 
only  a  great  deal  better,  and  with  more  comfort  than  at 
a  Hotel  or  Restaurant — but  much  cheaper. 

In  the  "smoking  room" — a  sealed  apartment  to  all  but 
members — you  meet  with  some  choice  spirits.  Albert 
Smith,  Walter  Lacy,  Lyster  O'Brien,  Shirley  Brooks,  Mark 
Lemon,  Thackeray,  Charles  Dance,  Sir  Edwin  Landseer, 
were  amongst  the  notables  who  patronized  the  cozy  retreat. 
Upon  the  walls  are  some  superb  paintings — presented  to 
the  club  by  some  of  its  members — one  I  think  by  Land- 
seer, and  the  other  by  Stanfield. 

1  never  can  forget  the  great  kindness  experienced  by  me 
at  the  hands  of  all  those  whom  I  had  the  honor  of  meeting 
here — but  as  I  have  some  further  reminiscences  of  this  delight- 
ful association,  occurring  during  my  second  visit  to  England 
in  1858,  I  shall  refrain  from  any  further  "  Jottings"  until 
that  time. 


190  Drifting  About. 


LIII. 

THE  LITTLE  CHAPEL   IN  CANNON   STREET. 

In  this  street,  not  far  from  the  celebrated  "London  stone," 
and  at  the  end  of  a  little  court  yard,  you  will  read  the 
words  "  Salter's  Hall  Chapel." 

It  was  raining  hard  on  Saturday  afternoon.  I  had  to 
meet  a  friend  in  the  vicinity  of  London  Bridge,  and  being 
a  little  earlier  than  the  hour  appointed,  I  strolled  along  this 
well  known  thoroughfare,  and  rested  at  the  gateway  of  the 
little  court  leading  to  the  chapel. 

I  have  always  cherished  the  greatest  fondness  for  old 
scenes,  old  faces,  and  associations,  and  though  I  had  not  set 
my  foot  upon  the  stones  of  that  courtyard  since  I  was 
fourteen  years  of  age,  I  seemed  led  by  an  impulse  I  could 
not  resist  to  revisit  the  well  remembered  spot. 

The  reader  will  be  kind  enough  to  understand — if  he  or 

she  is  interested  in  these  memoirs,  that  the  tost  time  I  had 

visited  this  place  of  worship  was  with  my  beloved  mother, 

and  the  particular  occasion  I  cannot  forget,  for  it  was  upon 

her  leaving  the  chapel  with  me,  after  the  morning  service 

— and  for  the  last  time  in  her  life,  that  the  first  symptoms 

appeared  of  the  disease  which  carried  her  to  her  grave. 
#■  *         •    #  *  *  •* 

Eve^thing  in  the  little  chapel  was  unchanged — the  green 
baize  door  opened  freely — and  there  was  the  selfsame 
pulpit — its  cushion  covered  with  "  brown  holland"  to  pre- 
serve it  from  the  dust  of  the  week, — the  vestry,  with  its 
framework  of  glass — the  clerk's  place  with  raised  desk — 
and  there  were  the  pews — the  one  she  occupied — but  where 
— oh,  where  are  the  worshippers  ! 

I  walked  up  the  aisle,  as  if  led  by  an  unseen  hand,  and 
stopped  at  the  pew,  where  so  often  I  had  sat  with  her — 
the  cushions,  hassocks,  and  little  box  for  the  bible  and 
hymn  book,  seemed  to  be  just  as  I  had  left  them ;  the  rain 
pattered  against  the  window  panes,  and  the  moaning  of  the 
wind  was  a  fitting  accompaniment  to  the  gloom  around 
me,  and  my  own  thoughts. 

Seventeen  years  have  passed  away,  since  I  was  with  her, 


Drifting  About.  191 

whom  I  loved  better  than  all  the  world  beside,  on  that 
very  seat. 

Oh !  how  the  changes,  the  vanities,  the  toils,  trials,  vexa- 
tions— and  even  the  aspirations  of  my  life,  vanished  into 
thin  air,  in  the  meditations  of  that  quiet  scene ;  the  past 
was  only  a  dream — the  future  a  mystery — and  in  the 
present,  I  seemed  to  be  bathing  once  again  in  the  fountains 
of  youth — the  memories  of  whose  bright  era  were  now  so 
strikingly  awakened. 

I  could  hear  again  the  little  quiet  voice  with  which  she 
joined  in  the  congregational  hymn  (for  there  were  no  paid 
singers  there);  the  attentive  look  at  the  minister,  the  moist 
ened  eye,  the  head  bent  low  at  the  time  of  prayer,  I  then 
beheld  again,  and  placed  my  hand  upon  the  book  of  hymns 
that  she  had  so  often  touched ;  I  opened  it,  and  bursting 
into  tears,  felt  that  we  were  again  reading  it  together ! 

Oh  !  if  for  those  who  have  gone  before  to  the  other  and 
the  better  land,  it  is  permitted,  either  in  spirit  to  revisit,  or 
from  their  heavenly  dwelling  to  behold,  those  whom  thev 
loved  in  life,  she,  whose  pious  teachings  and  tender  solici- 
tude were  then  renewed  within  me — she,  whose  hand  in  the 
dread  hour  of  dissolution  I  was  the  last  to  clasp,  the  last  to 
feel  its  pressure  in  return — she,  from  the  "  fields  of  light 
above,"  must  have  felt  that  the  seed  sown  by  her  affection- 
ate counsellings  had  not  been  entirely  wasted,  and  that  the 
promises  of  youth  were  not  altogether  unfulfilled ! 

I  was  awakened  from  my  revery  by  the  appearance  of 
the  old  pew-opener,  an  aged  matron,  busy  in  dusting  the 
chapel  for  the  service  of  the  morrow,  who,  upon  telling  my 
name  and  the  object  of  my  visit,  appeared  strangely 
affected. 

I  passed  out  once  again  through  the  little  green  baize 
door,  down  the  courtyard,  into  the  street,  and  stood  at  the 

fateway — alone.  Her  feet  or  mine  will  pass  there  no  more, 
felt  how  little  sympathy  there  was  on  earth.  There  I  was, 
alone — a  mere  speck  in  the  crowded  thoroughfare  of  that 
big  city.  But  1  reflected,  in  my  loneliness  and  desolation, 
that  there  were  many,  even  among  the  noble  and  the  great, 
who  might  envy  the  peaceful  sensations  and  holy  emotions 
aroused  within  me  while  revisiting  "  The  Little  Chapel  in 
Cannon  Street." 


192  Drifting  About. 


LIV. 

LONDON"  TO   PARIS. 

Friday,  April  8,  1853,  started  for  Paris,  by  the  way  of 
Dover  and  Calais. 

I  left  the  London  Station  at  about  nine  in  the  morning, 
and  arrived  at  the  hotel  in  Paris  at  about  eleven  o'clock  at 
night — a  distance  of  about  315  miles,  costing  about  £3. 
To  Dover  it  is  80  miles,  and  took  two  hours ;  over  the  chan- 
nel, 23  miles,  in  about  two  hours ;  from  Calais,  through 
Lille,  Amiens,  and  lots  of  smaller  towns,  the  train  reaching 
Paris  a  little  before  eleven  o'clock. 

I  went  first  to  the  Hotel  Meurice,  but  finding  it  uncom- 
fortably full,  proceeded  to  the  Hotel  Choiseul,  kept,  and 
capitally  too,  by  Morin,  at  325  Rue  St.  Honore,  very  near 
the  Place  Yendome. 

Now  there  is  so  much  to  dazzle,  bewilder,  and  delight 
one  in  this  city  of  cities,  that  I  find  it  difficult  to  know  of 
what  first  to  write,  or  to  give  any  particular  description  of 
my  impressions. 

It  would  take  a  residence  of  several  months — I  was  going 
to  say  years — to  appreciate  fully  the  wonders  of  this  mighty 
capital ;  consequently,  one  passing  only  a  few  days  therein 
cannot  be  expected  to  know  much  about  it. 

First  of  all,  I  would  advise  the  visitor,  upon  the  morning 
of  his  arrival,  to  consult  the  article  headed  Strangers'  Diary, 
in  the  daily  English  newspaper  called  Galignani's  Messen- 
ger, taken  at  all  the  principal  hotels,  and  whatever  is  to  be 
seen  on  the  day  of  publication  is  invariably  mentioned. 

My  first  effort  was  to  find  out  the  whereabouts  of  my 
nephew,  a  student  of  medicine,  in  the  quarter  of  the  town 
called  the  Rue  de  l'Odeon.  Succeeding  in  the  search,  we 
"  peregrinated  "  together  "  sight-seeing." 

We  first  went  to  the  Louvre  and  Luxembourg  gardens 
and  palaces.  Readers  will  be  surprised  when  they  are  in- 
formed that  only  a  few  hours  were  devoted  to  these 
renowned  places  of  curiosities  and  art ;  but  the  fact  is,  I 


Drifting  About.  193 

never  had  any  especial  taste  for  galleries  of  paintings,  mo- 
saic pavements,  marble  vases,  or  gorgeous  specimens  of 
sculpture;  and  even  if  I  had  the  inclination  or  the  ability 
to  go  into  the  details  of  a  description  of  the  wonderful  things 
to  be  seen  in  these  ancient  and  renowned  museums,  it  has 
not  only  been  done  so  often  before,  but  in  Gblignani's  Guide 
Book,  which  everybody  possesses,  a  full,  true,  and  particu- 
lar account  is  given  ;  therefore,  I  shall  content  myself  (and 
doubtless  please  my  readers  better)  by  simply  clipping  from 
my  Diary  a  "  brief  item"  of  what  I  "saw"  and  "  did"  each 
day. 


LV. 

PLACES  IN  PARIS  FOR   THE  STRANGER  TO  SEE. 

Should  these  lines  fall  into  the  hands  of  those  who  in- 
tend to  remain  (like  myself)  only  a  few  days  in  the  French 
capital,  they  may  perhaps  find  some  benefit  from  perusing 
the  following  List  of  Places,  arranged  in  the  order  which  is 
most  convenient  for  saving  time : 

1.  Palace  of  the  Tuileries  and  Triumphal  Arch  of  the  Carrousel. 

2.  The  Louvre  and  its  Museums. 

3.  Column  of  the  Place  Vend6me. 

4.  Obelisk  of  Luxor,  and  the  Place  de  la  Concorde. 

5.  Triumphal  Arch  at  the  Barriere  de  l'Etoile. 

6.  Chapel  of  St.  Ferdinand. 

7.  Chapelle  Expiatoire. 

8.  Church  of  the  Madeleine. 

9.  Palace  and  G-alleries  of  the  Palais  Royale. 

10.  Church  Notre  Dame  de  Lorette. 

11.  Exchange. 

12.  Bibliotheque  Rationale. 

13.  Church  S.  Vincent  de  Paul 

14.  Strasburg  Railway  Terminus. 

15.  Conservatoire,  Arts,  Metiers. 

16.  Abattoir  of  Popincourt 

17.  Cemetery  of  P£re  la  Chaise. 

18.  Column  de  la  Bastile. 

19.  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 

20.  Hotel  de  Ville. 

21.  Palais  du  Quai  d'Orsay. 

9 


i94 


Drifting  About. 


o 


22.  Legislative  Assembly. 

23.  Hotel  des  Invalided 

24.  Artesian  Well  of  Grenelle. 

25.  Musee  d'Artillerie. 

26.  Church  St.  Germain  des  Pres. 

27.  The  Mint. 

28.  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts. 

29.  Church  of  St.  Sulpice. 

30.  Palace  of  the  Luxembourg,  Picture  Gallery,  etc. 

31.  Hotel  Cluny. 

32.  Pantheon. 

33.  Church' of  St.  Etienne  du  Mont. 

34.  Gobelins  Manufactory. 

35.  Garden  of  Plants,  Museums. 

36.  Fontainebleau. 

37.  Cloud. 

38.  Abbey  of  St.  Denis. 

39.  Sevres  China  Manufactoiy. 

40.  Versailles. 

41.  Vincennes. 

LVI. 

PARIS  NOTES. 

I  do  not  agree  with  my  friend  Belle  Brittan  that  "  the 
women  of  Paris  are  not  handsome."  I  think,  as  a  general 
rule,  that  they  are.  But  I  do  agree  with  Col.  H.  F.,  that 
there  is  something  indescribably  neat,  trim,  and  fascinating 
about  them ;  and  that  they  take  much  more  pains  to  please, 
in  little  things,  than  either  the  American  or  English  women ; 
and  to  me  there  is  a  certain  indescribable  witchery  of  man- 
ner about  them  wonderfully  irresistible,  and  a  style  perfectly 
enchanting.  Comparisons,  I  know,  are  "  odorous,"  but  give 
me  a  French  woman  before  any  other ! 

Gad,  it's  enuff  to  drive  any  nervous  man  into  1853  fits 
a  minute  to  look  at  'em !  For  take  the  veriest  and  most 
ordinary  waiting  maid,  and  even  if  not  pretty,  she  will  have 
a  deliciously  fitting  dress,  with  such  a  pretty  little  waist,  and 
look  so  trim,  clean,  and  neat,  with  a  little  white  "  cap  a 
Hop,'"  put  on  so  wickedly,  that  it  requires  a  "great  deal 
of  nice  consideration,"  as  John  Brougham  says,  to  pass  'em 
by,  without  wishing  them  a  happy  New  Year  ! 

The  weather  is  now  lovely,  and  oh !  how  shall  I  describe 


Drifting  About.  195 

the  beauties  of  the  gardens,  the  walks,  the  drives,  the  thou- 
sand and  one  sights  of  this  earthly  paradise  !  Come  with 
me  for  a  moment  to  the  Toolaries,  now  beginning  to  look 
beautiful,  the  trees  just  out  in  leaf,  all  fresh  and  green,  cut 
and  trimmed  so  as  to  form  groves,  shady  bowers,  and  quiet 
nooks.  Hundreds  and  hundreds  of  chairs,  and  benches 
without  number,  invite  yon  to  "  take  a  seat,"  and  every  day 
and  evening,  up  to  nine  o'clock,  it  is  filled  with  all  sorts  of 
pretty  women  and  children.  Then  the  Gham-d-Lyssees — 
whether  on  a  Sunday,  or  at  night — equally  strange,  fasci- 
nating, wonderful.  Charivaris,  walking  theatres,  dancing 
monkeys,  vendors  of  everything,  portable  concert  rooms, 
fitted  up  gorgeously  with  flowers,  mirrors,  and  bright  gas- 
lights, the  singers  "fixed  off,"  as  if  just  going  to  the  dress 
circle  of  the  Astor,  in  days  gone  by ;  half-a-dozen,  or  a 
dozen,  complete  orchestras,  all  firing  away,  and  neither  put- 
ting each  other  out,  and  the  whirl  of  excitement,  the  mass 
of  people,  and  then  so  much  civility  and  order ;  no  jostling, 
no  rude  "rubbing  up"  against  you,  no  shoving,  pushing,  as 
in  London,  no  treading  on  the  toes,  without  the  pleasant 
salve,  "  Pardon,  monsieur !" 

Then  the  Bull-e-vards,  o'  night,  with  the  multitudinous 
caffes,  thronged  with  men  and  women,  the  glare  of  gas,  the 
brilliant  shops,  the  myriads  of  black,  blue,  and  every  colored 
eye,  perpetually  flashing  upon  you,  the  tightly  fitting  little 
French  boot,  the  elegantly  turned  ankle,  the  indescribable 
raychercha  way  they  have  of  raising  the  dress,  about  two 
inches  and  three-quarters,  as  near  as  I  can  recollect,  and 
last,  though  not  least,  that  walk — oh !  my  nerves,  it's  really 
orful,  and  I  have  to  run  down  a  back  street,  to  get  out  of 
the  way,  it's  too  much  for  poor  human  natur. 

Then  the  Theatres — all  order  and  politeness — no  fighting 
and  rowdyism,  no  scrambling  for  places — you  just  leave 
your  glove,  or  piece  of  paper,  or  a  playbill,  to  show  you 
have  occupied  a  seat,  and  nobody  disturbs  it.  Then  the 
acting,  and  the  scenery,  and  the  orchestra,  and  the  tooi-on- 
sombte — oh  Lord!  it's  ruinous.  I  have  heard  Der  Frey- 
schutz,  'I  Puritani,  Sonnambula,  William  Tell,  Lucia  di 
Lammermoor,  as  I  never  expect  to  hear  them  again — no 
boisterous  applause — no  hi-hi-ing — no  ridiculous  encore-ing 
— no  ill-timed  brava-ing,  or  anything  of  the  sort. 


196 


Drifting  About. 


The  night  before  last  I  went  to  a  place  called  the  Jardin 
Mobile,  eclipsing  anything  of  the  kind  I  had  ever  seen — 
Niblo's  is  a  leetk  in  the  style.  Well,  here  were  beautifully 
laid  out,  hard  gravel  walks,  just  like  marble  to  the  feet — 
magnificent  lamps,  of  variegated  colors,  hanging  from  trees, 
and  trembling  in  the  air — fountains,  beauteous  in  form  and 
design,  gushing,  spouting  us,  and  watering  plants  and  flow- 
ers, whose  perfume  fairly  intoxicated  you.  Seats  and  sofas 
formed  of  cut  grass  and  moss — quiet  little  retreats,  and  such 
cozy  shady  nooks ;  and  then  right  in  the  centre,  in  a  kind 
of  Aladdin's  palace,  was  the  orchestra,  while  a  portion  of  the 
visitors  were  enjoying  themselves  in  the  giddy  dance — 
waltzing,  polkaing,  or  mazoorJcaing,  as  the  fancy  dictated. 
The  admission  was  two  francs — about  forty  cents.  But  the 
fact  is,  there  are  so  many  places  of  the  same  sort  here,  that 
it  is  foolish  to  particularize.  Then  the  night  was  so  lovely, 
the  scene  a  perfect  blaze  of  enchantment  and  beauty,  that  it 
seemed  as  if  Mr.  Mahomet's  heaven  had  broken  loose,  and 
taken  a  fit  to  give  us  poor  mortals  the  "latest  style  of  the 
fashions." 


Anno  Hathway's  Cottage. 


Drifting  About.  197 


LVII. 

THE  FRENCH  ACTOR  LEMAITRE. 

May  2g. — To-day  "  Yankee  Silsbee,"  the  eccentric  come- 
dian, called  on  me,  and  in  the  evening  we  went  together  to 
see  the  great  French  actor  Lemaitre,  the  original  "  Eobert 
Macaire,"  I  believe.  He  was  performing  at  the  Porte  St. 
Martin. 

The  theatre  was  crowded,  and  going  in  late,  we  had  a 
poor  place.  Our  stock  (united)  of  French  was  extremely 
limited,  although  my  companion  informed  me,  that  he 
would  translate  the  plot,  &c,  to  me  as  the  play  proceeded. 

This  was  quite  satisfactory,  and  by  the  time  we  were 
ready  to  leave  the  theatre,  I  ascertained  that  an  old  soldier 
(one  of  the  Old  Guard,  kind  of  "  Maid  of  Croissy"  piece), 
with  a  knapsack,  had  just  arrived  from  Morocco,  I  think, 
with  a  large  stick  in  his  hand,  and  dusty  shoes  and  gaiters ; 
that  he  walked  about  until  he  came  to  a  table,  and  a  stool 
— that  he  sat  down,  and  with  raised  hands  cried,  "  Mon 
Dieu !  Mon  Dieu  I" — that  the  audience  applauded — that  he 
then  toddled  off,  looking  very  much  like  Nickenson  of  the 
Olympic — that  the  audience  applauded  again — and  this 
was  Lemaitre,  the  great  French  actor,  as  I  am  told  he  is, 
and  which  I  do  not  of  course  doubt.  Well,  it  was  some- 
thing to  have  seen  the  man,  and  therefore  my  thanks  are 
due  friend  Silsbee  for  his  conducting  me  thither,  and 
translating  for  me  the  plot. 


A  FAC-SIMILE  OF  A  BILL  OF  FARE  IN  THE  PALAIS  ROYAL. 

I  used  to  dine  very  often  in  the  Palais  Koyal,  where  are 
some  capital  restaurants. 

At  the  "  Restarong  de  Paris,  Galerie  Montpensier,  23  Et. 
Roo  Monpensier  18,"  kept  by  Godin,  is  one  of  the  best  of 
these,  and  on  his  bill  of  fare  he  has  such  extraordinary  Eng- 
lish, that  I  asked  for  one,  so  that  I  might  give  a  verbatim  copy. 


198  Drifting  About. 


DINNERS  FOR  2  FR.  A  PLATE. 

May  be  hadi  soup  four  dishes  at  choice  as  meet  fish,  poltry,  gam,  sveet 
dainty  dishes  which  pastry,  one  dessert,  bread  at  direction,  and  \  a 
bottle  of  wine  of  Macon,  or  Chabblis,  or  a  bottle  of  beer.  Half  a 
oyster  can  be  had  to  suppy  a  dish. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

Dishes  of  supplement  40c. 

The  Soup  is  hever  replaced. 

Is  shote  be  made  a  diminutiod  of  50c.  for  every  bottle  to  the  persons 

who  shall  call  for  some  fine  wine  insted  of  their  ordinary  wine. 
The  dinners  are  not  to  be  shored !  (shared). 
But  no  diminutiod  in  the  dinners  price. 
It  will  be  perceived  30c.  by  child  for  bread  40c. 
For  dessert  supplement  30c. 
Sweet  meas  for  dessert  20c. 
Only  a  portion  of  fowl  will  be  hat  for  dinner. 
One  bottle  seltz  water  supplys  one  plate  of  coffee. 
The  dessert  can  be  replaced  a  glass  french  liquor. 


LVIII. 

AN  INTERVIEW  WITH  A  CORN  DOCTOR. 

I  was  in  my  bed  the  other  morning,  looking  over  a 
bundle  of  "  Spirits,"  just  sent  me  from  London,  when  a 
gentle  tap,  tap,  tap,  at  the  door,  interrupted  my  pleasant 
reading.  Well,  in  walked  a  large,  broad-shouldered,  stout 
feller,  about  six  feet  and  a  half  in  height,  who,  with  a  bow, 
and  hat  in  hand,  delivered  himself  as  follows : — 

"  Good  morning,  sare." 

"  Morning,"  says  I. 

"  I'se  called  to  see  you,  gentlemens,  as  I  vood  vish  to 
know,  as  you  have  any  like  to  have  your  caron  (I  under- 
stood him)  taken  out?" 

"My  what/"  said  I.  "I  don't  understand  you.  You 
must  have  got  into  the  wrong  room.  Who  are  you?  What 
the  d 1  is  it  all  about  ?" 

"  No,  no,  sare,  my  name  is  Doctare  Koke — and  I  am  ze 
first  ca-r-o-n" — 


Drifting  About. 


*o 


199 


"What  is  that?"  says  I. 

"  Vy  (pointing  to  his  toe),  cor-un — vat  you  call  c-o-r-u-n, 
eh  I  You  no  vat  I  mean  ?  for  your  toes  ?  Now  I  take  'em 
out,  as  never  vos,  and  they  never  com  no  more.  I  vill 
show  you  ze  patronage  I  has  got,  from  ze  first  gentlemens 
and  Lords  of  ze  vorld ;  and,  sare,  some  Americans.  I  got 
a  certificate  of  Doctare  Permniman — you  know  him,  sare  ? 
— from  New  York" — 

"You  mean,  perhaps,  Mr.  Penniman,"  said  I. 

"  Yes,  sare,  that's  him — Mr.  Pennman ;  he  gif  me  his 
certificate.  I  took  out  all  his  coruns,  and  his  family's, 
likewise  out  of  the  Prince  Saxe-Meinger." 

Here  is  an  extract  from  his  printed  certificate — 

"  Dr.  Kock,  inventor  of  entirely  new  process  for  to  take 
the  radical  cure  of  corns,  bunions,  nails  who  have  entered 
the  flesh,  without  fear  of  return,  or  pain  or  cutting,  a  few 
minutes  in  the  operation  being  performed. 

"  Dr.  Kock  has  had  the  pleasure  of  employing  and  using 
his  peculiar  method  upon  numerous  patients,  who,  after 
years  of  suffering,  have  been  enabled,  after  he  has  operated 
on  them,  to  walk  with  ease  and  pleasure,  and  wear  the 
tightest  shoe,  which  ever  could  have  been  made." 

Then  follow  these  crack-jaw  names — 


Prince  de  Ligne, 
Prince  Holek, 
Prince  Gluka, 
Prince  Sckarcatine, 
Prince  Gralikis, 
Prince  Sangusrko, 
Prince  Kosgerbey, 
Prince  Jerome  Bonaparte, 
Prince  Herman  of  Holanberik, 


Princess  Hypsholandais, 

Princess  Stephanie, 

Princess  Lucien  Bonaparte, 

Duke  of  Monterfel, 

Duke  of  Albadie, 

Duke  of  Chevreuse, 

Duke  of  Noailles, 

Duke  G-eorges  of  Meklinbourg, 

Dr.  Perminman  of  New  York, 


And  several  Thousand  others  too  Numerous  I 

LIX. 

THE    "  NOTRE  DAME." 

Fail  not  to  attend  high  mass  at  the  Cathedral  of  Notre 
Dame,  or  at  the  churches  of  St.  Roche,  St.  Eustache,  or 


200  Drifting  About. 

Notre  Dame  de  Loretto,  at  ten  any  Sunday  morning,  for 
you  will  there  witness  a  most  imposing  spectacle,  and  be 
delighted  with  some  superb  music. 


THE  BEST  PLACE  TO  DINE. 

The  best  dinner  I  got  in  Paris  was  at  the   "British 
Tavern,"  Eue  Richelieu. 


LX. 

HENRI  HERZ  CONCERT. 

Monday,  18th  April,  1853. — Strolling  along  the  Boule- 
vards I  met  "  Henri  Herz,"  had  not  seen  him  since  I  sang 
at  his  Concerts  in  Sacramento. 

We  had  a  hearty  laugh  over  old  times,  and  inviting  me 
to  come  to  his  concert  on  the  following  evening  remarked, 
that  he  didn't  think  I  should  see  any  rats  running  across  the 
floor! 

Next  evening  went  to  48  Rue  de  la  Yictoire,  where  I 
found  a  brilliant  audience  assembled.  Heard  for  the  first 
time,  Tamburini — was  disappointed;  fancied  he  must  be 
getting  into  the  "sere  and  yellow."  The  tenor,  Gar- 
doni — good.  Sivori  (heard  often  in  the  United  States), 
superb  (though  not,  I  think,  equal  to  Yieuxtemps).  Felix 
Godefroid,  on  the  harp,  perfectly  enraptured  the  people. 
Laborde  sang  delightfully. 

After  the  Concert,  I  was  presented  to  Auber,  the  com- 
poser ;  had  a  brief  and  pleasant  chat  about  America,  and 
an  invitation  to  call  and  see  him. 

Wednesday. — Heard  Sophie  Cruvelli — to  me  one  of  the 
most  fascinating  singers  I  have  ever  listened  to  in  "  Semi- 
ramide." 

Belletti  was  there  also.  The  opera  was  superbly  given. 
I  have  never  heard  such  an  orchestra.  On  the  following 
evening  heard  Der  Freyschutz  at  the  Grand  Opera,  with 
Mad.  Nau ;  and  a  portion  of  "  Lucia,"  in  which  Mad.  La 
Grange  sang  divinely,  she  being  called  out  five  times  / 


Drifting  About.  20 1 

Left  Paris  at  half-past  10,  per  rail,  for  Chalon-sur-Saone  ; 
paid  two  Napoleons  for  a  first  class  ticket  (about  eight  dol- 
lars) ;  dined  at  Dijon  at  6,  and  arrived  at  Chalon  at  9 — put 
up  at  Hotel  de  Pare. 

The  French  railways  are  admirable.  The  carriages  com- 
fortable and  luxurious,  the  conductors  invariably  polite, 
and  the  punctuality  of  the  trains  astonishing. 

As  I  left  Paris  my  eye  was  charmed  by  the  exquisite 
beauty  of  the  scenery  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  snatch- 
ing a  hurried  glance  at  the  world-renowned  Forest  of 
Fontainebleau,  and  envying  the  content  and  peace  of  the 
peasantry,  so  happy  and  cheerful,  women,  men,  and  chil- 
dren working  in  the  fields  together,  reminding  me  of 
Macaulay's  beautiful  lines : 

"  Now  let  there  be  the  merry  sound 
Of  music  and  of  dance ; 
Through  thy  corn-fields  green,  and  sunny  vales, 
Oh  !  pleasant  land  of  France I" 

And  also  of  the  rhapsodies  of  old  Cardinal  Eichelieu,  in 
the  lines  so  graphically  given  by  Forrest : 

"  My  island  France !     My  wedded  wife,  sweet  France  1 
Who  shall  proclaim  divorce  'twixt  thee  and  me  1" 

Thursday,  21. — Left  in  steamer  for  Lyons.  The  "  Saone," 
a  beautiful  river,  a  good  deal  like  the  Khine.  Scenery- 
matchless. 

At  Lyons,  stopped  at  Hotel  de  Nord,  to  which  place  I  and 
a  Mr.  Repka,  of  Philadelphia,  had  been  taken  by  the 
"  Courier." 

Strolled  through  some  of  the  silk  factories,  and  acci- 
dentally "  came  across  "  my  old  friend  "  Toot  G ,"  of 

Philadelphia. 

His  astonishment  was   great  on  seeing  me.      "Whv, 

Pipes,  where  the  d 1  did  you  come  from  ?     I  thought 

you  were  in  Marysville,  California,  buried  in  a  gold  mine  !" 

Well  (I  replied),  the  fact  is,  I  have  been  engaged  by  the 
manager  of  the  Theatre  to  play  a  round  of  my  Shaksperian 
parts,  and  so  I  thought  I'd  open  in  the  most  popular  one, 
which  is  "  Claude  Melnotte,"  in  the  Lady  .of  Lyons ! 


202  Drifting  About. 

"  You  don't  say  so,"  says  he,  "  by  golly,  I'll  come  and 
see  you  to-night !" 

I  saw  him  about  four  years  afterwards  in  Chesnut  street, 
Philadelphia. 


LXL 

LYONS. 

"Went  to  the  Theatre ;  a  beautiful  building,  fitted  up 
elegantly.  The  orchestra,  consisting  of  about  sixty  per- 
formers, was  capital — six  violoncellos,  four  double  basses, 
twenty  fiddles. 

I  have  forgotten  what  the  play  was  about,  but  I  know, 

that  out  of  France,  I  have  never  seen  pieces  so  well  put 

upon  the  stage — never  heard  such  an  orchestra — never  seen 

acting  so  good — and  never  looked  upon  such  stage  scenery ! 
********* 

Went  up  the  heights  of  Fouvier,  from  which  place  I  had 
a  splendid  view  of  the  Alps  and  Mount  Blanc.  Eegistered 
my  name,  and  saw  the  signatures  of  J.  T.  B.  and  L.  Gr.  C. 

Start  for  Avignon  in  steamer  at  six  in  the  morning. 
Passed  down  the  Ehone,  gliding  by  some  of  the  most 
beautiful  vineyards  I  had  ever  seen,  arriving  at  Avignon 
about  four. 

This  is  a  very  ancient  and  antique  looking  city,  and 
somewhat  celebrated,  I  am  told,  as  being  the  Chateau  of 
the  Popes.  We  dined  here  very  nicely,  at  seven  taking  the 
rail  for  Marseilles,  arriving  there  at  half-past  nine  at  night. 


LXII. 

MARSEILLES. 

Stopped  at  Hotel  d'Orient.  On  the  next  day,  had  a 
very  pleasant  interview  with  Mr.  Hodges,  the  American 
Minister,  who  invited  me  on  the  following  day  to  dinner. 


Drifting  About.  203 

Marseilles  is  a  very  bustling,  business-looking  city,  and, 
I  believe,  the  largest  seaport  in  France.  The  quays,  docks, 
and  wharves  are  swarming  with  life  and  motion,  and  the 
fleet  of  vessels,  and  the  smoke-jacks  of  a  score  or  more  of 
steamships,  is  most  refreshing  to  the  eye  of  those  who  have 
passed  the  greater  portion  of  their  lives  in  "  big  cities," 
and,  as  my  friend  "Col.  Fuller"  remarks  in  his  spicy 
book: 

"  The  city  is  flourishing  under  the  new  impulse  given  it  by  Louis 
Napoleon,  who  is  everywhere  breathing  the  breath  of  life  into  France." 


LXIII. 

NICE. 

Monday \  24th  April. — Left  Marseilles  at  nine,  per  Dili- 
gence, for  Nice,  Italy,  travelling  all  night.  Entered  the 
Sardinian  territory  about  eight,  Tuesday.  Stopped  at 
Hotel  des  Etrangers. 

I  was  delighted  with  this  place,  the  situation  right  on 
the  shore  of  the  classic  Mediterranean.     Perfectly  beautiful. 

The  weather  at  this  season  of  the  year  was  lovely.  There 
are  here  about  40,000  people,  among  whom  are  many 
English,  those  whose  limited  income  renders  it  a  more  con- 
venient place  of  residence  than  in  larger  and  more  expen- 
sive localities. 

The  town  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Montalbano.  This 
city  and  its  environs  are  greatly  celebrated  for  a  pure  and 
healthy  air,  the  climate  even,  I  was  informed,  in  the  middle 
of  winter  being  very  mild ;  accounted  for  by  the  situation 
of  the  neighboring  mountains,  which  are  connected  with 
the  Alps,  and  protect  the  place  from  storms. 

Start  for  Genoa  at  seven,  again  by  "  Diligence  " — oh ! 
horror !  The  scenery  on  this  route  surpassed  everything 
in  grandeur  I  had  ever  dreamed  of. 

28th  April. — Arrived  at  ten,  and  put  up  at  Hotel  de  la 
Croix  de  Malte  sur  le  Port. 


204  Drifting  About. 

This  is  emphatically  a  City  of  Palaces,  through  many  of 
which  I  wandered,  and  was,  of  course,  delighted. 


LXIV. 


A  REMINISCENCE   OF  GENOA. 

The  second  day  after  my  arrival  I  was  fortunate  to  meet 
with  a  youDg  Italian,  from  Palermo,  who  spoke  pretty  good 
English,  and  finding  that,  like  myself,  he  was  waiting  for 
the  Leghorn  steamer  to  take  him  to  Eome,  we  joined  com- 
pany, and  I  very  gladly  availed  myself  of  his  offer  to  show 
me  some  of  the  places  of  interest  in  and  about  this  ancient 
and  interesting  city. 

He  proposed  first  that  we  should  visit  the  "  Pallacini 
Gardens."     These  are  distant  some  four  miles  from  the  city. 

It  is  the  country-seat  of  a  wealthy  Italian  Marquis,  and 
the  house  and  grounds  are  open  for  the  inspection  of  visitors 
at  certain  times  of  the  year. 

To  give  some  idea  of  their  vastness  and  extent,  our 
guide  informed  us  that  five  hundred  laborers  and  mechanics 
were  constantly  employed  in  the  different  departments 
every  year,  making  improvements  and  keeping  the  grounds 
in  order. 

Imagine  to  yourselves,  then,  a  palace  of  tne  purest  white 
marble,  of  the  most  elaborate  style  of  architecture,  the  main 
entrance  to  which  is  ascended  by  innumerable  steps  of  the 
same  dazzling  material,  looming  up,  as  it  were,  from  a  bed 
of  roses.  The  view  from  the  summit  was  surpassingly 
grand,  and  my  eye  was  fairly  feasted  with  every  variety  of 
scenery. 

Mountain,  hill,  valley,  and  dale — artificial  lakes,  with 
gilded  and  gaily  colored  pleasure  boats — water-falls,  foun- 
tains, bowers  of  loveliness,  cool  and  shady  nooks — exotics, 
and  flowers  of  every  name,  odor,  and  color — aviaries  of 
birds  of  the  richest  and  most  glorious  plumage,  pouring 
forth  the  sweetest  melody,  fairly  intoxicating  the  senses. 

Sunday,  1st  May.    Left  in  French  steamer  for  Leghorn  : 


Drifting  About  205 

— Put  up  at  Hotel  Yictoire,  a  capital  house,  beautifully 
kept,  clean  beds,  lots  of  water,  large  towels,  civil  landlord, 
who  speaks  English  (or  did),  and  gave  us  a  capital  fare, 
and  well  furnished  rooms. 

My  first  intention  upon  arriving  here,  was  to  buy  a 
"  Leghorn  hat,"  a  thing  I  had  never  seen  since  I  was  a 
boy ;  but  failing  in  this,  I  was  attracted  to  the  Plaza,  to 
hear  the  finest  band  that  I  ever  remember  listening  to ;  I 
refer  to  the  "  Austrian" — composed  of  about  a  hundred 
musicians — each  performer  a  professor  of  the  instrument 
upon  which  he  plays. 

They  stood  in  the  middle  of  the  Grand  Plaza,  by  lamp- 
light, the  conductor  standing  in  the  middle  of  the  space, 
baton  in  hand — the  band  was  composed  entirely  of  wind 
instruments — and  played  divinely. 

The  following  day  went  per  rail  to  "Pisa,"  and  (of 
course),  up  the  Leaning  Tower  /  The  scenery  on  the  route 
was  exceedingly  beautiful,  but  upon  arriving  we  were  be- 
set by  a  perfect  swarm  of  beggars,  or,  as  they  are  called, 
lazzaroni,  half-starving,  starved,  maimed,  halt,  and  blind, 
whose  supplications  for  "carita,  signor,  carita,"  beat  an}'- 
thing  I  had  encountered  in  Malta. 

The  tcwer,  it  appears,  was  built  in  the  twelfth  century, 
and  it  leans  eight  feet  from  the  top  to  the  base,  and  is 
reached  by  a  flight  of  one  hundred  and  ninety-six  steps. 
My  sensations  upon  going  up  this  slanting  dicular  tower 
were  most  peculiar,  and  thougri  it  has  been  standing  more 
than  six  hundred  years,  and  has  braved  the  "  battle  and 
the  breeze"  in  the  shape  of- earthquake,  storm,  and  wind,  I 
felt  that  it  was  going  to  fall  down  with  my  weight ! 

At  the  top  were  large  bells,  rung  upon  the  occasion  of 
the  execution  of  criminals,  or  a  fete  day. 

We  then  went  to  the  cemetery — the  "  Duomo,"  or  Bap- 
tistery— returning  to  Leghorn  at  four. 


206  Drifting  About. 

LXV. 

CIVITA  VECCHIA — TO   ROME. 

From  Leghorn  I  went  by  steamer  to  Civita  Vecchia, 
put  up  at  Hotel  "  Orlandi,"  very  good,  and  very  expensive. 
This  is,  I  believe,  the  only  seaport  in  the  Papal  States — 
and  I  should  think  it  very  fortunate  for  the  residents  of 
the  dominions  of  his  Holiness,  that  it  is  so — for  another 
such  place  would  be  the  death  of  any  one,  whose  business 
called  him  thither;  though  Civita  Vecchia  is  certainly 
one  of  the  numerous  places  which  steam  navigation  has 
raised  from  comparative  insignificance. 

Numbers  of  travellers  land  here  on  their  first  entrance 
into  Southern  Italy  ;  and  the  lines  of  steamers  which  regu- 
larly touch  here  on  their  voyages  between  Marseilles  and 
Naples  have  given  a  slight  importance  and  spasmodic 
activity  to  the  town,  which  it  never  could  have  acquired 
by  any  other  means. 

I  should  imagine  it  to  contain  5000  souls. 

They  have  a  theatre  here,  and  I  saw  La  Sonnambula 
very  badly  performed. 

Tourists  are  never  permitted  to  land,  until  the  captain 
has  shown  his  papers,  and  passports  are  carefully  examined. 

Directly  after  we  landed  we  were  beset  by  porters ;  but 
we  had  made  our  bargain  before  leaving  the  steamer. 

Two  "  pauls"  (or  50  cents)  for  landing  is  quite  enough. 
Before  we  left  the  town  our  baggage  was  twice  examined, 
amidst  the  greatest  "  fus3  and  feathers." 

These  annoying  and  ridiculous  impediments  give  an 
early  acquaintance  with  the  greatest  drawback  to  travelling 
in  Italy. 

On  Tuesday,  May  3,  I  started  by  Diligence,  at  half-past 
eleven  a.m.,  for  Rome — arriving  at  half-past  seven  in  the 
evening — paying  therefor  20  pauls  or  $5. 

The  first  view  I  obtained  of  St.  Peter,  was  about  17  miles 
from  the  city,  where  the  great  dome  loomed  up  in  the  dis- 
tance like  a  big  balloon — the  postilion,  cracking  his  whip, 
and  "  hollering  out"  voildf  St.  Petar  I 


Drifting  About.  207 

Now,  I  think  I  have  before  hinted  to  the  dear  delightful 
reader,  that  my  visits  to  all  these  wonderful  places  being 
very  much  on  the  "  Will  o'  the  Wisp"  order  preclude  the 
possibility  of  a  very  extended  "mention;"  and  indeed, 
were  it  not  so,  it  has  been  done  to  "  tatters"  by  thousands 
of  tourists  who  have  preceded  me — and  so  the  "  Eternal 
City"  will  be  disposed  of  as  follows : 

1  had  put  up  at  the  Hotel  d' Allemagne,  in  the  Via  Con- 
dotti,  kept  by  "  Franz" — and  I  was  told,  it  was  considered 
one  of  the  best  taverns  in  the  place.  I  think  I  found  this 
the  most  expensive  place  I  had  yet  visited  in  Italy ;  my 
hotel  bill  was  about  $4  a  day. 

The  following  letter  I  sent  to  the  "  Knickerbocker  Maga- 


"  Hotel  d'Allmeyne,  Eome,  May  8, 1858. 

"  My  dear  Knick.  : — At  last  the  feet  of  Mr.  Pipes  have 
reached  the  seven  or  eight-hilled  city,  and  from  a  capitally- 
furnished  room,  only  six  stories  high,  with  a  magnificent 
prospect,  is  he  penning  these  few  lines  to  you,  a  keind 
trend  promising  to  mail  it  from  London,  as  that  will  save 
you  at  least  a  hundred  dollars  postage,  this  bein'  very  deer 
in  the  Papal  States.  Now  as  I  have  seen  and  gazed  at  sum 
werry  curious  '  things  •  on  this  side  the  worter,  and  have 
only  a  short  space  to  report  'em  in,  I  shall  pick  out  a  phew 
4  PiPE-stems  '  for  those  of  your  Keeders  who  have  done  me 
the  honor  of  glancing  at  my  ill-spelled  yarns.  Fust  of  orl 
comes  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe.  In  each  of  the 
cities  and  towns  through  which  I  have  pass'd,  I  have  seen 
in  various  languages,  the  announcement  of  '  Uncle  Tom's 
Cabin  '  for  sale,  and  in  two  instances  the  name  was  spelled 
thus :  *  Mistress,  Harriet  Beatcher  Stove  ! '  In  Pied- 
mont, I  saw  it  akted,  and  the  Italien  who  took  the  part  of 
Uncle  Tom  affected  the  audience  to  tears,  the  women  cry- 
ing like  sixty ! 

"My  edication  being  sadly  neglected  in  the  'classikal 
line,'  wen  a  young  child,  prevents  my  givin'  you  any  very 
extended  notis  of  this  world-renowned  citty,  or  interesting 
anekdotes  of  Mr.  C^sar,  Mr.  Titus,  Mr.  Nero,  or  Pom- 
pey's  Pillar,  and  the  like ;  but  a  few  of  the  '  things,'  pro- 
viding I  can  spell  'em  right,  I  will  'jot  down.'     Among 


208  Drifting  About. 

the  foremost  I  would  menshun  '  The  Colluseum,'  where 
Biron  used  to  lie  on  a  stone,  and  right  '  Child  Harold.' 
It  is  in  vast  preservashun,  though  wonderfully  goin'  to  ruin. 
I  sor  the  place  were  the  wild  beastesses  used  to  cum  up 
through  a  iron  grateing,  while  Mr.  Caesar  and  his  family 
used  to  look  on.  Saint  Peters  is  decidedly  larger  than 
our  church  in  Barclay -street,  take  it  orl  round  on  an  ave- 
rage ;  then,  it  has  got  a  ball,  so  high  that  the  bats  can't  fly 
up  to  it ;  whitch  makes  'em  very  cross,  they  say.  I  sor 
the  Pope,  who  is  a  very  mild-looking  gentleman,  dressed 
in  various  colors.  Peeple  generally  kiss  his  toe — I  disre- 
member  which  one — but  I  didn't.  He  goes  to  Bed  about 
eight  bells,  and  gets  up  immediately  before  breakfast.  I 
visited  the  late  residence  of  Nero  and  Titus,  still  standing. 
Some  of  the  fresko's,  though  painted  three  thousand  years 
ago,  are  yet  visible ;  they  were  done  by  various  painters, 
such  as  Vandike  Roobins,  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  Titmarsh,  Moreland,  Elliott,  Inman, 
and  Baffle.  I  am  not  quite  certain,  but  I  think  these  are 
sum  o'  the  names. 

11  Then  I  went  to  the  Yatikan — one  thousand,  four  hun- 
dred rooms ;  sor  statuarv,  mummies,  (no  daddys,)  regular 
original  ones,  done  up  in  linen ;  then  I  went  to  the  theatre 
paid  two  pauls  entrance,  (ten  cents  English ;)  the  play  was 
'  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots ;'  didn't  understand  a  word  of  it, 
corse  it  wos  hurried  up  in  Italien.  It  appeared  that  Sir 
Walter  Really  got  into  a  muss  with  Queen  Elizabeth, 
but  I  an't  quite  certain.  Then  I  went  to  the  '  Pantheon,' 
or  the  *  Pantry'  I  forget  which  :  this  wos  built  twenty-five 
years  B.  c,  and  is  still  standing :  there  is  a  large  hole  at  the 
top,  which  admits  light  and  rain,  sometimes  both  :  I  think 
they  show  you  the  pew  St.  Paul  used  to  occupy,  but  I'm 
not  quite  sure.  Then  I  went  to  the  arch  of  Mr.  Septimus 
Severious,  carved  all  over  in  real  stone ;  then  to  the 
Pyramid  of  Cayius  Cestius  ;  then  to  the  arch  of  Constan- 
tine,  and  Temple  of  Vesta,  where  the  first  waist-coat  was 
made ;  so  they  said,  but  I  an't  quite  certain.  I  didn't  see 
any  regular,  real  Romans,  like  they  used  to  be  in  the  old 
times:  they  all  wear  tail  coats,  now,  and  patent-leather 
boots,  and  gold  shirt  studs.  I  sor  the  Foram,  but  I  don't 
think  they  were  sitting ;  I  an't  quite  certain.     On  my  way 


Drifting  About. 


209 


to  Rome,  having  to  stop  at  Leghorn  for  two  days,  I  took  a 
run  per  Railroad  to  Pisa,  and  went  up  the  Leaning  Tower ; 
and  I  fully  expected  it  would  fall  down  every  minit,  be- 
korse  I  wos  there,  but  I  believe  it  is  yet  standing.  Pisa  is 
in  Tuskany,  or  Tuscaloosa,  I  forget  which. 

"  Yesterday,  I  sor  a  copy  of  the  '  Knickerbocker,'  of 
last  month  or  the  month  before,  at  the  English  Reeding- 
Room  of  Mr.  Piale,  Number  Seventy-Nine,  Piazza  di 
Spagna,  and  there  were  half-a-dozen  'Merikans  waiting  to 
get  a  sight  at  it.  There  was  the  nice  blue  cover,  the  pictur 
of  '  Old  Nick,'  in  the  easy  chair,  and  in  a  moment,  there 
came  to  me  such  '  pleasant  memories'  of  the  past,  of  '  chats' 
and  mild  '  brewings'  '  now  and  then'  in  the  sanctum,  of 
sundry  visits  to  Nassau-street,  and  the  polite  and  gentle- 
manly Mr.  H ,  when  a  bright,  fresh  copy  would  be 

handed  me;  and  pleasing  indeed  to  me  was  the  thought 
that  I  might  soon  meet  you  again ! 

"  Trooly  Yours, 
"James  Pipes,  of  Pipesville." 


When  I  inform  the  reader,  that  I  met  a  gentleman  upon 
my  first  visit  to  the  Vatican,  who  informed  me,  that  he  had 
visited  Rome  regularly  for  eighteen  years — passing  three  or 
four  months  there  each  season — and  did  not  imagine  that  he 
had  seen  half  of  it,  I  need  make  no  further  apology  for  the 
brevity  of  my  remarks,  considering,  I  fancied  /had  seen  it 
in  four  days. 


210  Drifting  About. 

My  English  friend  was  horrified  when  I  told  him  of  my 
flying  visit.  The  other  day  I  got  hold  of  rather  a  funny 
specimen  of  English  composition.  Here  is  a  verbatim  copy : 
it  is  the  advertisement  of  one  of  the  Hotels:  "Hotel 
Meloni,  Rome.  This  handsome  and  extension  hotel,  situate 
on  the  beutiful  Piazza  del  Popolo,  on  the  side  of  the  mag- 
nifical  walk  of  Mount  Pinio  as  also  the  benefit  of  being  in 
most  of  its  parts  warmed  by  the  sun  near  the  English 
church,  and  possessing  fine  points  of  view,  together  with 
the  salubrity  of  the  air.  The  Hotel  is  directed  by  the  pro- 
prietor himself  who  neglects,  no,  thing,  in  his  establish- 
ment, to  reduce  it,  one  of  the  most,  comfortable  houses  in 
Europe,  as  well  for  the  distribution  of  its  apartments,  and 
finery  of  its  furniture,  as  for  the  uttermost  cleanness,  and 
reasonableness  of  prices,  as  so  many  Royal  family,  and 
many  other  of  equal  distinction  who  have  had  the  goodness 
of  honoring  it  might  verify." 

On  the  10th  of  May,  I  found  myself  again  in  Genoa,  on 
the  11th  I  left,  by  diligence  and  railroad,  for  "  Turin,"  the 
most  modern  city  in  Italy. 

Put  up  at  the  Hotel  "  Feder"— at  the  Theatre,  I  saw 
"  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  performed — an  Italian  personating 
the  woolly-headed  African — and  even  with  this  transmo- 
grification— the  audience  were  "  moved  to  tears." 

Next  day  left  for  "  Chambery,"  the  capital  of  Savoy — 
crossed  the  Alps  by  way  of  the  "  Mont  Cenis" — bitterly 
cold — the  scenery  beyond  description  beautiful. 


LXVI. 

A  SCENE  TO   BE  REMEMBERED. 

I  shall  ever  remember  a  little  incident  that  arrested  my 
attention,  upon  reaching  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the 
snow-capped  mountains  of  the  Alps,  where  we  for  a  brief 
time  rested  to  change  horses. 

Now  I  like  the  Catholics ;  for  to  me,  there  has  always 
seemed  to  be  so  much  real  sincerity  and  heartfelt  devotion 


Drifting  About.  211 

in  the  followers  of  this  creed — on  the  mosaic  pavements  of 
the  magnificent  cathedrals,  that  in  many  lands  I  had  visited, 
alike  kneel  the  rich  and  poor,  the  noble  and  the  peasant, 
no  " stalls"  for  the  titled,  no  $1,000  "pews"  are  rattled  off 
by  your  fashionable  "  auctioneer"  for  his  kid-gloved  and 
lavender-scented  "  communicant."  Here  they  are  all  on  a 
level — and  let  their  belief  be  right  or  wrong — they  show,  I 
think,  by  their  profound  and  devotional  reverence  for  the 
Supreme  Being  when  in  his  Temple,  and  by  their  charity 
for  the  poor,  the  weak  and  erring,  a  brighter  pathway  to 
Heaven,  than  the  followers  of  many  other  creeds,  who 
look  upon  them  with  derision  ! 

We  were  descending — the  sun  had  just  risen — steeping  in 
the  bright  red  light  the  snow-capped  hills,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach. 

Our  diligence  had  stopped  to  get  fresh  horses — and  we 
were  just  on  the  point  of  starting  on  our  downward  track, 
when  from  my  seat  in  what  they  call  the  banquette  or  top  of 
the  vehicle,  I  saw  on  one  of  the  projecting  pieces  of  rock,  on 
the  right  hand  side  of  the  road,  what  appeared  to  me  to 
be  the  remains,  or  ruins  of  an  old  chapel,  with  a  "  cross" 
before  it — and  a  peasant  woman  kneeling  there  ! 

Little  did  she  dream  that  she  was  seen  by  mortal  eye  ! — 
and  thither  had  she  gone  to  offer  up  her  simple  prayer.  It 
was  intensely  cold — and  the  danger  and  difficulty  of  the 
ascent  must  have  been  indeed  great.  How  intense  the 
devotion  of  a  soul  thus  praying !  how  fervent  the  prayer — 
how  sublime  the  spectacle — how  acceptable  to  the  Omnipo- 
tent! 


LXVII. 

GENEVA. 

On  the  14th  I  arrived  at  "  Geneva,"  and  put  up  at  the 
notel  de  Corrane,  on  the  Lake,  and  felt  like  singing  the 
song, 

"  I  have  crossed  the  proud  Alps, 
1  have  sailed  down  the  Rhone,"  etc. 


212  Drifting  About. 

Lake  Leman  lies  before  me,  and  from  the  window  of 
this  charming  hotel  the  scene  is  perfectly  enchanting. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  reminiscences  connected 
with  my  brief  sojourn  in  Switzerland,  was  the  following. 

I  had  rested  for  a  day  or  so,  at  one  of  the  little  villages 
on  the  banks  of  Lake  Leman,  near  the  far-famed  town  of 
Zurich,  and  I  want  to  tell  the  reader  of  my  meeting  with 


THE  LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY. 

The  reader  is  aware,  that,  in  some  parts  of  Northern 
Europe,  the  English  language  is  spoken ;  indeed,  in  many 
of  the  Swiss  Hotels,  it  is  quite  common.  I  was  in  one  in- 
stance, however,  fortunate  enough  to  meet  with  a  family 
who  talked  good  old  Saxon,  the  head  of  which  was  the 
host  of  the  pretty  little  village  inn  at  which  I  rested. 
Here,  as  in  other  lands,  the  children  have  their  "  May  Day 
Festival ;"  and,  though  I  was  not  quite  in  time  to  witness 
their  merry-making,  I  was  in  time  to  inhale  the  fragrance 
of  the  flowers — in  time  to  tell  you  of  the  exquisite  beauty, 
even  though  withered  on  the  stem,  of  "  The  Lily  of  the 
Valley."  What  a  lovely  day  it  was — as,  looking  from  the 
window  of  my  Hotel,  I  watched  the  bright  sun-beams,  as 
they  danced  and  sparkled  on  the  clear  blue  waters  of  Lake 
Leman !  The  breeze  was  crisping  the  waves,  so  that  they 
danced  and  gently  tossed  about  the  tiny  boats,  with  milk- 
white  sails,  that  glided  on  its  surface. 

A  very  compact  little  vessel  was  hired  for  a  moderate 
price,  and  as  she  fluttered  her  wings  to  the  wind,  I  seemed 
fairly  to  revel  in  the  quintessence  of  quiet  and  repose. 
The  first  summer  rain  had  just  fallen,  and  the  valleys, 
hills,  and  dales,  refreshed  by  the  showers,  seemed  to  send 
up  a  song  of  thankfulness  to  Heaven,  while  the  trees,  filled 
with  blossoms,  some  just  putting  forth  their  leaves,  look- 
ing so  green  and  lovely ;  and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  it 
was  one  vast  panorama  of  matchless  beauty. — On  nearing 
a  little  village,  the  name  of  which  I  have  forgotten,  not 
very  distant  from  the  far-famed  Zurich,  whose  waters  have 
been  immortalized  in  story  and  song,  I  observed,  as  I 
thought,  an  unusual  gaiety  and  liveliness  of  the  people, 


Drifting  About.  213 

and  I  was  about  remarking  to  my  companion  that  I  ima- 
gined it  was  some  fete  day,  when  he  informed  me  we  had 
arrived  just  in  time  to  see  the  last  of  the  Swiss  May  Festi- 
val. Children's  sports  are  to  me  always  interesting,  and 
so  away  we  went,  through  innumerable  groupings  of  lads 
and  lassies,  and  vine-yards,  bowers,  and  gardens  of  sur- 
passing beauty,  the  air  seemingly  laden  with  the  perfumes 
of  a  thousand  exotics,  when,  suddenly,  in  the  distance  the 
well  known  May  Pole  was  seen.  But  the  dance  had  ceased ; 
the  little  twinkling  feet  that  so  lately  had  trodden  on  the 
spring  blossoms,  had  disappeared ;  but  the  Lily  of  the 
Valley  was  there,  and  its  fragrance  was  sweet  beyond 
description. 

A  little  blue-eyed  girl,  of  some  seven  summers,  had  just 
plucked  the  flower,  and  placing  it  in  her  bosom,  began  to 
cry.  This  attracted  my  attention,  and  I  went  to  her  and 
asked  her  to  tell  me  the  cause  of  her  grief.  She  said  that 
her  little  sister,  whom  they  used  to  call  the  "  Lily  of  the 
Valley,"  had  been  taken  from  them,  and  she  was  going  to 
send  this  flower  with  her  to  Heaven,  to  be  planted  there  ! 
I  need  not  say  I  became  much  interested,  and  followed 
the  little  stranger  for  some  distance ;  but,  in  the  throng  of 
children,  I  soon  lost  her. 

The  little  ones  that,  on  my  arrival,  were  grouped  toge- 
ther in  the  very  height  of  glee  and  excitement,  as  I  fancied, 
were  speaking  in  subdued  tones,  while  the  peasants  looked 
sad  and  gloomy. 

Musingly  I  strolled  to  the  inn  of  the  village,  where  I 
learned  the  cause  of  the  ceasing  of  the  festivities.  Here, 
also,  had  they  a  "  May  Queen,"  one  they  were  wont  to  call 
the  "  Lily  of  the  Yalley."  For  three  summers  had  she 
reigned  over  her  little  flowery  band,  when  suddenly  she 
was  called  away  to  bloom  in  the  fields  of  light  above. 

But  listen  to  the  story  as  they  told  it  to  me : 

The  sun  never  beamed  more  gloriously  than  upon  the 
May -morn  about  which  I  am  writing ;  the  last  crowning 
of  the  "  Lily  of  the  Yalley,"  and  though  its  little  head  was 
bent  in  sickness,  the  genial  sunshine,  it  was  thought,  would 
revive,  and  the  merry-making  and  excitement  prove  bene- 
ficial, rather  than  injurious.  And  so  they  placed  her  upon 
her  floral  throne. 


214  Drifting  About. 

The  shoutings  of  a  hundred  tender  voices  went  up ; 

Erocessions  were  formed,  and  garlands,  wreathed  by  little 
ands,  were  tossed  in  the  air.  All  eyes  were  turned 
towards  the  throne  of  roses,  and  her  crown  of  pure  white 
lilies,  that  she  loved  to  wear,  was  placed  upon  her  brow. 
She  looked  so  lovely  there,  in  her  dress  of  buds  and 
blossoms ;  but  she  was  very  pale,  and  her  eye  looked  up 
to  Heaven!  Could  she  have  heard  them  calling  her 
away  ?  She  smiled  so  sweetly,  she  could  not  be  in  pain ; 
and  then  she  tried  to  raise  herself,  but  the  exertion  was 
too  much  for  her,  and  just  waving  her  little  hand, 

"  She  fell  in  her  saint-like  beauty, 
Asleep  by  the  Gates  of  Light !" 

The  color  returned  not  to  her  cheek,  and  thus  this 
tender  floweret,  in  the  very  height  of  its  May  Day  glory, 
was  taken  to  be  transplanted  into  the  heavenly  nursery  ! 

The  May  Day  dance  was  over.  Garlands  and  wreaths 
of  flowers  dropped  from  slender  hands,  that  in  their  glee 
had  held  them — and  tears  flowed  like  rain ;  and,  where  so 
lately  smiles,  laughter,  and  the  joyous  strains  of  music 
floated  in  the  air,  sobbings  now  were  heard,  and  rejoicings 
were  at  an  end. 

I  thought  it  was  a  glorious  way  to  die, — ere  the  young 
heart  had  grown  familiar  with  the  paths  of  sin.  While 
even  the  spring  flowers  budded,  bloomed,  and  blossomed 
on  her  very  breast — while  the  shoutings  of  innocent  voices 
greeted  her — her  spirit  passed  silently  away. 

This  is  the  story  that  they  told  me  ;  and  now  I  will  tell 
you,  my  reader,  ivhat  I  saw. 

There  was  no  coffin — no  pall — no  raven  plumings — none 
of  the  trappings  and  sombre  liveries  of  the  grave,  seen 
there  ; — but  upon  two  pieces  of  cedar  ivood,  bound  tightly 
together  with  boughs  of  evergreen  and  myrtle,  forming  a 
sort  of  trellis- work,  the  body  was  placed,  dressed  in  a  gar- 
ment of  plain  white,  with  a  single  flower — the  "  Lily  of 
the  Valley" — resting  on  the  breast.  The  scene  was  most 
imposing.  It  was  night ;  but  the  moon  shone  full  upon 
that  lovely  face ;  it  was  so  light — so  very  light — it  did  not 
look  like  Death.     And,  then,  it  seemed  to  smile,  as  though 


Drifting:  About. 


o 


215 


a  pleasant  dream  was  her's ; — or,  perhaps,  she  was  talking 
to  the  angels.  And,  then,  each  of  the  children  kissed 
those  little  lips,  so  still  now,  and  cold,  and  their  hearts 
seemed  breaking.  I  could  hear  their  sobbings ; — and  they 
called  her  "Lily ;"  and  they  seemed  to  think  that  she  could 
hear  them  /  and  one  said  she  knew  she  smiled  when  they 
called  her — but  now  she  had  gone  to  God  to  be  a  Queen 
among-  his  little  angels !  She  was  so  very  beautiful  1  And 
then  they  sang  a  hymn  ;  and  its  distant  echo  among  the 
hills  made  me  think  that  it  was  answered  by  cherub 
voices ; — it  was  so  distinct,  so  very  clear,  that  it  startled 
me ; — and,  then,  1  saw  them  turn  away  and  weep,  for  the 
"  Lily  of  tlje  Valley"  had  passed  from  their  sight  for  ever ! 
In  connexion  with  the  preceding,  I  have  great  pleasure 
in  introducing  the  following  stanzas,  presented  to  me  by 
Dr.  Keyes,  the  husband  of  the  fair  writer,  when  on  a  visit 
to  Montgomery,  Alabama,  March  10,  1859. 


THE  SWISS  MAY  QUEEN; 

OB 

THE   LILY   OF   THE   VALLEY. 

An  incident,  related  by  Stephen  C.  Massett,  in  his  travels  in  Switzerland, 
suggested  the  following  lines. 

There  was  not  a  bud  or  flower  so  fair 

In  Zurich's  lovely  dale, 
As  the  gentle  little  maid,  they  called 

The  Lily  of  the  Vale. 

Three  years  a  gay  and  youthful  band 

Had  crowned  her  Queen  of  May, 
Who  ever  hailed  the  coming 

Of  the  glad  and  joyous  day. 

Another  May-morn  came  again — 

All  hearts  were  beating  high — 
The  air  was  soft — and  brightly  beam'd 

The  azure  of  the  sky. 

The  maidens,  with  their  garlands, 

Had  gathered  on  the  green, 
And  were  waiting  for  the  coming 
Of  their  loved  and  gentle  Queen. 


216  Drifting  About. 


Lily  was  drooping,  but  they  thought 
The  sunshine  bright  and  warm, 

Would  bring  again  to  blooming  life 
Her  fragile  little  form. 

She  came,  and  then  they  placed  her 

Upon  her  floral  throne — 
Decking  her  brow  with  blossoms  white, 

Flowers  that  she  called  her  own. 

She  looked  around,  smiling  with  love 

Upon  that  fair  young  band — 
But  the  bright  and  fragrant  wand  she  held 

Was  trembling  in  her  hand. 

Tlien,  the  angels  must  have  called  her — 
To  heaven  she  turned  her  eyes — 

And  her  gentle  spirit,  upward  borne, 
Soared  fluttering  to  the  skies. 

At  night  the  moon  in  glory  shone 

Upon  the  scented  bower — 
Again  they  gathered  to  the  grave 

In  the  tranquil,  silent  hour. 

A  bier  was  made,  all  covered  o'er 

With  flowers  for  a  bed — 
Again  the  lilies  of  her  choice 

Were  bound  around  her  head. 

Queen  of  the  angels,  now  she  reigns 

Queen  of  a  lovelier  throng — 
And  with  that  minstrel  band  above 

She  sings  her  May-day  song. 

Weeping,  below,  the  maidens  turn 
From  the  dark  and  saddened  scene — 

No  more  they'll  clasp  in  warm  embrace 
Their  own  loved  May-Day  Queen. 


St.  Andrew's  Bay,  Fl. 

Feb.  19, 1855. 


Back  again  in  Paris.  Been  gone  only  twenty-six  days, 
during  which  time  I  think  I  have  not  been  idle. 

24=th  May. — Yes,  while  in  London  the  big  Tower  guns 
are  firing,  and  hurrahs  are  rending  the  air;  variegated 
lamps  in  the  shape  of  Vs  and  A's  are  trembling  and  hang- 


Drifting  About.  217 

ing  from  the  house-tops — for  this  is  Her  Majesty's  birthday. 
While  all  this  is  going  on,  here  I  am  sitting  once  again  in 
my  pleasant  room,  after  my  rattling  journey. 


/SSWAW/ 


Just  returned  from  visiting  the  Museum,  Palace,  and 
Gardens  of  Versailles,  and  therewith  was  I  delighted.  The 
day  was  lovely,  and  providing  myself  with  a  valet  de  place, 
made  for  the  rail  depot,  from  which  place  we  started  at  10 
A.M.  Versailles  is  quite  a  large  city,  containing,  I  am  told, 
some  60,000  inhabitants.  There  is  always  an  immense 
number  of  troops  here ;  but  of  course  the  principal  object 
of  interest  is  the  Palace  and  Gardens,  I  accordingly  made 
the  best  of  my  way  thither.  Before  we  entered  the  princi- 
pal court  of  the  chateau  (if  these  French  words  are  spelled 
wrong  you  and  your  readers  will  pardon  me)  I  was  struck 
with  its  really  beautiful  iron  palisading.  It  offers  to  the 
view  an  extent  of  117,  or  thereabout,  yards,  divided  into 
eleven  parts  by  iron  pilasters,  terminating  at  the  two  extremi- 
ties by  pedestals  bearing  trophies.  The  suns  which  sur- 
mount the  gilt  lyres  decorating  the  iron  pilasters,  are  to  be 
met  with  at  every  step  in  the  different  embellishments  of 
the  chateau.  Louis  the  XVI.,  I  am  told,  chose  this  planet 
for  his  emblems.  The  Palace  is  approached  from  the  town 
by  the  Place  d'Armes,  about  800  feet  broad,  on  one  side  of 
which  are  the  stables  erected  under  Louis.  They  present 
semicircle  fronts,  with  courts  inclosed  by  handsome  iron 

10 


218  Drifting  About. 

railways,  having  lofty  gateways,  ornamented  with  trophies, 
&c.  They  afford  aecomraodation  to  1000  horses.  The 
Grand  Court  is  about  400  feet  in  breadth,  and  separated 
from  the  Place  d'Armes  by  stone  parapets  flanking  an  iron 
railway,  richly  chased  with  gilded  ornaments,  with  a  cen- 
tral gateway,  surmounted  with  the  ancient  crown  and  shield 
of  France.  At  the  end  of  this  railing  are  groups  of  figures 
in  stone — on  the  right  representing  France  victorious  over 
Austria — on  the  left  victorious  over  Spain.  In  front  are 
sixteen  marble  statues  of  Kichelieu,  Bayard  (I  could  not 
help  thinking  of  one  of  the  editors  of  the  Tribune),  Col- 
bert, Turenue,  and  others.  In  the  middle  is  an  immense 
equestrian  statue  of  Louis  XYI.  It  is  magnificently  exe- 
cuted. I  almost  fear  to  say  how  many  rooms  I  walked 
through,  filled  with  exquisite  paintings;  but  I  believe 
there  are  some  four  or  five  hundred.  With  the  Chapel  I 
am  particularly  struck.  The  interior,  I  am  told,  was 
restored  by  Louis  Philippe  to  its  original  splendor.  It  was 
here  that  in  1769  Louis  and  Marie  Antoinette  were  married. 
The  pavement  is  of  the  most  costly  marble,  wrought  in 
mosaic.  The  balustrades  of  the  galleries  are  of  marble  and 
gilded  bronze.  The  paintings  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin 
are  most  exquisite.  Service  is  chanted  here  every  Sunday 
morning.  I  went  then  to  the  Theatre.  Fourteen  columns, 
fluted  and  gilt,  separate  the  upper  boxes,  fronted  with  balus- 
trades richly  gilt.  The  other  ornaments  are  in  crimson  and 
gold,  with  lots  of  mirrors  and  chandeliers.  This  is  only 
open  on  presentation  of  one's  passport  and  a  small  fee.  I 
then  went  to  the  Grand  Apartments.  The  king's  are  lofty 
and  large,  encrusted  with  marbles,  and  loaded  with  a  per- 
fect profusion  of  massive  and  gilded  ornaments.  The 
queen's  are  in  white  and  gold,  and  look  exceedingly  rich 
and  chaste.  But  how  shall  I  tell  you  of  the  Park  and  Gar- 
dens? Of  the  variety  and  effect  of  the  plantations  and 
water,  or  of  the  immense  number  and  beauty  of  the  statues, 
vases,  and  groups.  Here  are  two  beautiful  vases  in  white 
marble,  ornamented  with  bas-reliefs — then  come  the  oblong 
basins,  upon  the  borders  of  which  repose,  I  forget  how 
many,  magnificent  bronze  groups.  At  the  end  of  the  ter- 
race are  two  fountains,  adorned  with  groups  of  animals — 
all  sorts  of  flowers,  rich  and  rare,  are  to  be  found  in  profu- 


Drifting  About.  219 

sion.  I  could  fill  my  sheet  in  talking  to  you  of  this  place 
of  enchantment ;  but  as  I  have  other  things  to  chat  about, 
let  me  leave  Versailles.  Come  and  take  with  me  a  quiet  stroli 
into  one  of  the  many  beautiful  public  gardens  of  the  Champs 
Elyse*es,  I  forget  the  name  of  this  one,  but  I  am  told  it 
ranks  first.  Well,  a  light  iron  frame  front  leads  you  to  a 
spacious  vestibule,  the  vault  being  supported  by  eight 
columns,  and  from  thence  to  a  very  large  garden  com- 
pletely roofed  ivith  glass,  A  range  of  iron  pillars  runs  all 
along  the  interior,  supporting  a  light  and  airy  gallery  filled 
with  lovely  flowers,  the  space  below  being  laid  out  as  a  gar- 
den, with  orange  trees  and  all  sorts  of  rare  exotics — great 
big  basins  in  the  form  of  enormous  sea-shells,  cascades, 
statues,  and  groups ;  the  bloom,  perfume,  and  beauty  of  the 
scene  my  pen  fails  me  to  describe.  There  is  even  an  aviary 
here  filled  with  beautiful  birds,  warbling  away ;  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  garden  a  grassplot  leading  to  a  romantic 
grotto.  While  the  walls  that  connect  portions  of  the  iron 
framework  are  coated  with  mirrors !  Verily  a  scene  did 
Mr.  Pipes  witness  the  other  night.  And  though  he  wan- 
dered gloomily  and  alone,  through  this  earthly  paradise, 
yet  he  fully  appreciated  the  delicious  situations  of  many 
of  those  around  him  ;  for,  taking  advantage  of  the  beauty 
of  the  night,  the  magic  of  the  scene,  the  witchery  of  the 
music,  and  the  soft  and  inviting  shades  of  the  mossy  bow- 
ers, than  which,  nothing  more  lovely  could  he  imagine 
Eden's  garden  to  produce,  were  many  of  both  sexes,  and 
"  eyes  replied  to  eyes  that  spoke  again."  It  seems  to  me 
(to  be  a  leetle  poetical)  that  words,  breathed  in  places  like 
this,  come  with  ten-fold  power  upon  the  imagination,  and 
the  guards  to  the  heart  are  unconsciously  lulled  to  sleep, 
and  the  simple-hearted  one  is  too  apt  to  fall  a  victim  to  the 
insidious  arts  of  the  vicious  and  depraved. 

Once  again — and  perhaps  for  the  last  time — on  the  Boule- 
vards !  Oh,  street  of  streets,  how  shall  I  write  about  thee ! 
Broadway  is  great — Regent  street,  Oxford  street,  Piccadilly 
— are  nutmeg-graters ;  but  these  same  Boulevards  are  the 
greatest.  Countless  numbers  of  trees  on  either  side — the 
dazzling  beauty — the  luxury  of  the  shops — the  restaurants 
— the  lofty  houses,  some  of  beautiful  architecture — the 
crowds  of  well-dressed  persons — the  glittering  of  thousands 


22o  Drifting  About. 

of  variegated  lamps  among  the  trees— the  sounds  of  music 
and  the  roll  of  carriages,  all  form  a  perfect  medley  of  sights 
and  sounds  to  the  eye  and  ear,  not  a  little  perplexing, 
though  not  unpleasing  to  the  visitor  who  walks  there  for 
the  first  time  on  a  fine  evening.  Forms,  stools,  chairs,  in 
any  number,  filled  with  men,  women,  and  children.  You 
pay  two  sous  each  for  a  seat.  Then  there  are  puppet  shows, 
Punch  and  Judys,  pantomimes,  rope  dancing,  dancing, 
dancing  dogs,  anything,  everything !  The  scene,  as  I  last 
evening  took  my  farewell  stroll,  was  indescribably  wonder- 
ful and  exciting ;  a  confusion  of  colors  and  images  burst 
upon  my  vision,  the  whiteness  of  the  houses,  broken  at  in- 
tervals by  dark  masses  of  verdure,  formed  a  beautiful  con- 
trast to  the  blaze  of  light  issuing  from  the  splendid  cafes 
and  club  houses,  while  the  glaring  gas  lights  without  illu- 
minate the  groups  seated  round  the  little  marble  tables; 
cabs,  elegantly  ornamented  coaches,  and  carts,  rush  almost 
noiselessly  by,  on  the  newly  macadamized  carriage-way,  and 
all  seem  perfectly  entranced  in  the  pleasure  of  idleness. 
How  I  yearned  to  "  parley- voo-de-dingdong;"  but  'twas  of 
no  avail,  and  so  with  a  last  lingering  look  I  turned  down 
the  Kue  de  la  Paix,  to  the  Place  Vendome,  into  the  K-o-o-o 
St.  Honore,  and  thence  to  my  hotel. 

On  Sunday  I  saw  the  Emperor — the  late  Mr.  Louis  Na- 
poleon. He  was  on  horseback,  dressed  in  a  blue  frock  coat 
with  a  velvet  collar,  grey  check  trowsers  with  a  dark  stripe 
down  them,  patent  leather  boots,  and  a  s\\my  hat — that 
Genin  brought  out  for  him.  He  looked  pale,  touched  his 
hat  occasionally,  sometimes  took  it  off. 

26. — Left  Paris  for  London  by  way  of  Boulogne  per  rail. 
The  place  is  a  sea-port  in  the  channel  at  the  mouth  of  the 
little  river  Liane.  The  upper  town,  or  what  they  call  Old 
Boulogne,  is  built  on  the  summit  of  an  eminence,  and  en- 
compassed with  walls.  The  lower  town  is  partly  situated 
upon  declivities,  stretching  down  from  the  ramparts  and  the 
slopes  of  the  beautiful  hills  which  line  the  harbor,  flanked 
on  either  side  by  two  long  piers.  The  suburbs  of  Boulogne 
are  indeed  lovely,  and  I  should  imagine  that  no  continental 
town  can  vie  with  the  numerous  advantages  which  it  pos- 
sesses ;  it  is  so  near  England,  its  situation  and  environs  so 
beautiful,  and  just  for  all  the  world  like  Bockaway ;  it  has 


Drifting  About.  221 

a  sandy  beach,  rendering  it  a  most  agreeable  bathing-place 
and  summer  resort.  Here,  during  the  season,  are  any  quan- 
tity of  English  ;  and  I  assure  you  I  feel,  after  my  journey - 
ings,  where  for  weeks  I  have  not  heard  a  word  of  my  own 
tongue,  that  at  least  I  can  understand  and  be  understood,  for, 
though  a  French  town,  it  is  decidedly  half  English.  Signs 
and  sights  like  these  greet  the  eye  :  "  Mrs.  Susanna  Taylor, 
Butcher" — "John  Buck,  from  London" — "Good  Beds,  Is. 
6d." — "  Chops,  Steaks,  Liver  and  Bacon,  Cold  Cuts,  Brown 
Stout  and  Table  Beer,  The  Era  taken  m"— "  Shaving  Id." 
— "  Muffins  and  Crumpets,"  and  the  like.  Quite  refreshing 
this,  after  reading,  or  trying  to  read,  all  sorts  of  jim-crack 
words  and  quirly-gigs  !  And  then  you  see  "  young  "  and 
"old"  England  to  great  advantage;  see  on  the  Pier  o' 
mornings  and  evenings  short  waistcoats,  large  feet,  striped 
trowsers,  short  bosomed  shirts  with  three  black  studs,  gai- 
ters, narrow  rimmed  'afe,  a  Murray's  guide  book,  a  spy 
glass,  and  a  thick  stick ;  then  you  hear  the  Queen's  Hinglish 
walked  into  pretty  considerably,  such  as  "  Wen  did  you  git 
'ere  ?"  "  I  'ad  such  a  lark  yesterday  harfternoon  !"  and 
"  'ow  did  you  like  the  hopperar,  hay  ?"  etc.  But  I  like 
Boulogne  much — the  hotels  are  capital,  and  I  have  been 
most  kindly  treated. 

Just  received  a  very  pleasant  note  from  Mrs.  Henry 
Eussell  (the  wife  of  the  celebrated  vocalist  and  composer), 
inviting  me  to  call  at  the  Chateau  Lettsom,  Maquetre. 

Passed  a  delightful  day  there  with  her  charming  family. 


LXVIII. 

AN  INTERVIEW  WITH    BRAHAM  AT  THE    AGE  OF  EIGHTY- 
FIVE. 

And  now  for  an  incident  that  happened  to  me  at  Bou- 
logne. First,  I  would  premise  that  I  have  been  most  lucky 
in  my  travelling  companions,  always  finding  some  nice 
gentlemanly  fellow,  who  would,  if  I  needed  it,  translate  for 
me,  or  give  me  some  bit  of  valuable  information.     About 


222  Drifting  About. 

half  way  from  Paris  to  this  place  1  found  but  one  gentle- 
man in  the  car  besides  myself,  and  this  one  having  the 
almost  universal  bit  of  "  red  ribbon  "  stuck  in  his  button- 
hole, I  felt  satisfied  it  would  be  in  vain  for  me  to  suggest  a 
remark,  either  about  the  "  weather "  or  anything  else ; 
accordingly  I  folded  my  arms,  and  commenced  musing. 
My  companion,  however,  asking  me  if  I  objected  to  his 
smoking,  changed  the  current  of  my  thoughts,  and  I  soon 
found  myself  chatting  away,  on  all  sorts  of  topics.  Acci- 
dentally mentioning  California,  I  was  asked  if  I  had  met 

with  a  Mr.  T ,  of  San  Francisco,  and  upon  my  replying 

in  the  affirmative,  my  companion  presented  me  with  his 
card,  stating  that  he  was  his  brother,  and  inviting  me  very 
kindly  to  his  house.  Upon  the  arrival  of  the  train  at  Bou- 
logne he  insisted  upon  driving  me  in  his  very  elegant  car- 
riage to  the  hotel  from  which  I  am  now  writing,  and 
through  him  I  found  out  the  residence  of  a  lady,  whom 
years  ago  I  had  met  in  New  York,  and  who,  when  I  called 
on  her  here,  received  me  most  cordially,  and  it  is  she  I  have 
to  thank  for  the  great  pleasure  I  afterwards  received,  in 
calling  on  and  passing  the  evening  witl)  the  veteran  Braham ! 
Yes,  the  veritable  Simon  Pure — the  seemingly  imperish- 
able. 

Now  I  shall  try  and  give  you  as  exact  an  account  as  pos- 
sible of  what  was  said  and  done,  and  as  good  a  description 
as  I  can  of  his  appearance — for  he  is  certainly  a  living 
wonder.  There  were  present  a  Mr.  Westmacot,  brother  he 
told  me  to  the  sculptor,  and  uncle  to  an  old  acquaintance 
of  ours,  a  doctor  of  the  same  name,  who  formerly  lived  in 
New  York ;  Miss  Bolton,  the  sister  of  the  late  Mrs.  Braham, 

my  friend  Mrs.  E ,  her  daughter  and   myself.     I  was 

not  a  little  surprised  to  see  Mr.  Braham  walking  about 
the  room  without  any  support — no  stick — and  when  I  was 
introduced  he  gave  me  quite  a  good  shake  of  the  hand, 
saying,  in  a  most  jovial  manner — "  Take  a  chair,  sir ;  happy 
to  see  you — we  are  just  taking  tea,  will  you  join  us?— I 
want  to  chat  a  little  about  New  York." 

He  was  dressed  in  black,  and  with  the  exception  of  being 
a  little  thinner  than  when  in  New  York,  had  not  changed 
one  particle  in  fourteen  years ;  when  I  last  saw  him  he  was 
standing  on  the  steps  of  the  "  Astor,"  whistling  for  his  dog! 


Drifting  About.  223 

And  be  was  actually  letting  grow  a  little  moustache,  which  has 
an  indescribably  ludicrous  appearance  on  a  person  of  eighty- 
five. 

Having  with  me  the  programme  of  one  of  my  own  con- 
certs given  in  California,  I  showed  it  to  him.  He  took  it, 
and  though  the  print  is  very  small,  he  read  every  word  of  it 
— seemingly  to  wish  to  show  us  that  he  could — without 
spectacles !  He  then  turned  to  me  and  said — "  Come,  sir, 
will  you  sing  me  a  song  ?" 

"  With  pleasure,  if  it  will  afford  you  the  least  amuse- 
ment," said  I. 

Accordingly  my  pipes  were  set  a  going — and  when 
finished — the  veteran  singer,  going  towards  the  piano,  said 
to  me — 

"  Now,  sir,  you  have  done  me  the  favor  to  sing  me  a 
song,  I  will  give  you  one  of  mine !" 

He  sang  the  "  Death  of  Nelson "  gloriously !  I  never 
heard  him  give  it  with  greater  power  and  effect.  It  was  a 
treat,  I  assure  you,  and  was  so  unexpected.  But  I  think 
his  reply  to  me,  upon  my  asking  him  quite  seriously,  of 
course,  if  he  intended  again  visiting  America,  is  the  greatest 
thing  on  record — "  Why,  sir,  I  can  hardly  say,  but  I 
may!  !  r 

He  spoke  of  many  in  New  York — and  of  the  old  Taber- 
nacle, where  he  made  his  debut — said  he  was  glad  the 
Americans  seemed  to  like  Alboni  so,  and  made  this  re- 
mark, or  as  near  as  I  can  remember,  in  reference  to  her 
matchless  voice.  "I  never  heard  so  fine  a  voice — it  is  like 
a  gum-tree,  sir — it  oozes  out  like,  and  in  her  pathetic  pas- 
sages would  draw  tears  from  stones !" 

He  spoke  too  of  our  excellent  friend,  Mr.  Timm,  saying 
how  beautifully  he  accompanied.  I  passed  a  most  delight- 
ful evening,  and  now,  on  leaving  Boulogne  I  would  say — 
Go  to  the  "  Eoyal  Hotel,"  kept  by  Mr.  Hughes — capital 
eating  and  drinking,  excellent  beds,  and  lots  o'  water  and 
large  towels. 

In  this  town,  in  1848,  I  believe,  the  celebrated  romance 
writer,  Le  Sage,  died,  and  was  buried.  Here  also,  in  1844, 
Thomas  Campbell,  the  English  poet,  died,  as  did  Churchill 
also  in  1700  and  something. 

Some  delightful  walks,  promenades,  etc.,  are  to  be  found 


224 


Drifting  About. 


here.  The  jetty  seems  the  most  fashionable,  especially  to- 
wards the  close  of  the  evening ;  when  it  is  high  water, 
hundreds  flock  to  the  pier,  to  watch  the  vessels  as  they 
enter  or  leave  the  harbor. 

Left  Boulogne  per  "  City  of  Paris"  steamer,  for  London. 

On  Wednesday,  June  29,  I  left  Liverpool  in  the  steam- 
ship Atlantic,  Captain  James  West,  for  New  York. 


On  Saturday,  November  5,  I  started  on  my  second  trip 
to  California  in  the  steamship  Illinois,  Captain  Hartstein. 

To  be  a  faithful  chronicler  of  my  individual  fortunes  and 
misfortunes,  it  becomes  necessary  to  inform  the  reader  (if  he 
or  she  has  had  the  courage  to  follow  me  thus  far  in  my  , 
biography)  that,  when  I  arrived  from  California,  I  had  a  ' 
tolerably  fair  competency  ;  and  that  with  a  little  proper 
nursing,  and  prudent  investment  of  my  "funds,"  I  might 
take  my  ease  for  the  future.  Certain  it  was,  that  I  had  a 
larger  amount  of  "  cash  "  than  I  ever  possessed  before,  and 
I  began  not  only  seriously  to  think  of  building  a  house  in 


Drifting  About.  225; 

the  Fifth 'Avenue,  but  of  paying  daily  visits  to  Wall  street 
to* look  at  the  "  stocks  " — with  what  profit  the  reader  shall 
presently  know.  * 

Iii  those  days  there  was  a  stock  called  "  Madison  and 
Indianapolis."  Now,  it  was  suggested  to  me  by  a  distin- 
guished member  of  the  "  Board,"  that  it  was  not  only  the 
safest  thing  I  could  invest  in,  but  that  it  paid  a  tremendous 
dividend,  or  "  words  to  that  effect,"  as  my  friend  Judge 
B says. 

About  this  time  I  had  several  thousand  dollars  in  the 
Chemical  Bank. 

(I  always  had  a  high  regard  for  this  institution,  partly 
from  the  fact  of  the  highly  respectable  looking  class  of  old 
fogies  whose  ingress  and  egress  I  had  often  noticed,  and 
partly  from  once  having  been  nearly  apprenticed  to  a  che- 
mist and  druggist.) 

The  day  I  drew  out  my  "  balance "  from  this  highly 
esteemed  repository,  was  a  sorry  one  for  me.  I  was  the 
most  wretched  man  alive,  and  I  think  I  not  only  felt  in  my 
pocket  a  hundred  times  to  see  if  the  check  was  there,  but 
I  walked  up  and  down  hy  the  door  of  the  broker's  as  many 
more,  before  I  presented  myself  at  the  desk  of  the  entry 
clerk. 

The  stock,  I  believe,  was  purchased  at  109 — and  from 
that  moment  it  gradually  descended  in  the  scale  of  railroad 
securities. 

The  correspondence  I  have  had  in  regard  to  this  invest- 
ment, would  alone  fill  a  volume  ;  and  the  agony  I  endured 
for  months  as,  day  by  day,  I  saw  the  hopelessness  of  my 


never  having  once  known  the  refreshing  sensation  of  a 
"  rise  " — can  be  better  imagined  than  described.  Indeed, 
it  makes  me  sick  to  think  of  it;  so  I  will  simply  add,  that 
this  being  the  state  of  affairs,  I  resolved  once  again  to  woo 
Dame  Fortune  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

10* 


• 


226  ;    .        Drifting  About. 


LXIX. 

ALL   ABOUT   "  PIP] 

In  the  month  of  January,  1854,  I  made  the  purchase  of 
a  piece  of  land  on  the  "  Old  Mission  Road,"  in  the  city  of 
San  Francisco,  the  full  particulars  whereof  are  contained  in 
the  following  sketch,  written  for  the  California  Chronicle, 
then  edited  by  my  friend,  Frank  Souls' : 

I  think  it  is  nothing  more  than  fair,  and  justly  due  to  my 
individual  friends,  and  the  public  in  particular,  that  I 
should  give  a  distinct,  succinct,  and  faithful  account  of  the 
purchase,  settlement,  rise,  and  fall  of  the  suburban  retreat 
yclept  "  Pipesville."  In  doing  so  I  must  go  back  to  first 
principles,  and  the  reader  will  be  kind  enough  to  take  a 
peep  at  me,  seated  at  my  desk  in  the  office  of  Col.  J.  D. 
Stevenson,  a  little  wooden  shanty,  surrounded  by  water,  on 
Montgomery  street,  where  now  stands  the  brick  store  built 
by  J.  B.  Bidleman.  It  was  the  month  of  April — say  the 
first  (most  ominous  incident!)  in  the  eventful  year  1849. 
Now  I  had  never  in  my  wildest  dreams  of  prospective 
wealth  and  independence,  entertained  the  idea  of  being  the 
actual  possessor  of  any  "real  estate'' — had  never  before 
cared  to  inquire  the  price  of  a  "  20  x  80  "  or  "  50  x  160  "  lot 
in  my  peregrinations  through  the  streets  of  dear  old  New 
York,  or  indeed  in  any  city,  hamlet,  or  town,  that  I  have 
visited  in  any  part  of  the  globe.  I  had  imagined  that 
"  lots"  were  originally  staked  out  and  salted  down  by  Adam, 
as  a  first  rate  investment  for  future  generations,  should  they 
"  hold  on  "  long  enough,  and  that  by  some  genealogical 
hypothesis,  the  present  "  owners "  had  obtained  rightful 
possession.  The  reader  can  then  in  a  small  degree  imagine 
the  excited  state  of  my  feelings,  upon  being  informed,  on  a 
very  foggy  and  misty  morning  in  the  aforesaid  month  of 
April,  that  I  was  the  actual  possessor  of  two  lots  100  feet 
wide  by  200  feet  deep,  in  the .  "  beautifully  situated  "  and 
flourishing  city  (!)  of  New  York— of  the  Pacific !  !  My 
first  impulse  was  to  pack  up  my  trunk — not  #very  diffi- 

fQF*  of  i 
UNIVERSITY 


Drifting  About.  227 

cult  matter  just  then — consisting  as  it  did  of  only  one  suit 
of  very  seedy  black  clothes,  three  shirts,  and  one  odd  sock, 
and  proceed  thence  immediately  and  settle,  as  I  was  assured 
by  the  enthusiastic  proprietor  that  the  trifling  investment 
would  be  a  fortune  for  me  and  mine  in  a  very  few  months, 
the  property  being  so  very  near  the  proposed  "  City  Hall," 
the  "Public  Schools"  (oh!  Lord),  and  the  "  Kailroad 
Depot,"  to  say  nothing  of  their  contiguity  to  the  water,  i.  e. 
the  city  front!  The  deeds  were  made  out  and  duly  "re- 
corded," and  by  myself  at  that,  for  be  it  known  to  thee,  my 
worthy  reader,  Mr.  Pipes,  in  those  days,  was  a  Notary 
Public,  invested  with  all  the  privileges,  rights,  and  emolu- 
ments of  that  exalted,  high,  and  honorable  calling,  and  by 
a  no  less  distinguished  individual  than  Brigadier  General 
Governor  Riley,  attested  by  H.  W.  Halleck,  Secretary  of 
State ! — and  for  the  curious  in  those  matters  I  have  the 
original  document  to  show  them.  I  accordingly  credited 
myself  with  ten  dollars,  the  price  of  recording,  locked  up 
my  deeds  in  a  large  tin  box,  purchased  at  a  great  expense 
of  my  friend  Mr.  Smith  (now  Smith  Brothers  &  Co.),  and 
not  only  got  up  several  times  in  the  middle  of  the  night  to 
see  if  they  were  safe,  but  foolishly  thought  every  visitor 
that  entered  our  office  on  business  or  otherwise,  came  to 
make  me  "an  offer"  for  them.  I  will  not  tell  you  how 
often  I  have  strained  my  eyes,  in  looking  at  a  large  map 
that  was  tacked  up  against  the  wall  (?)  of  our  wooden 
shanty,  to  find  out  the  precise  whereabouts  of  my  two  lots, 
until  I  had,  in  a  feverish  state  of  excitement,  with  my  per- 
spiring finger,  made  a  dirty  streak  all  along  the  beautiful 
surface  of  this  splendid  specimen  of  caligraphic  art,  drawn 
at  an  expense  of  $200  cash  by  my  fellow  clerk,  Mr.  Rowe ! 
How,  with  mouth  wide  open,  I  had  listened  (until  I  had 
swallowed  a  lot  of  flies)  to  the  startling  accounts  of  several 
returned  missionaries  (to  whom  lots  had  been  presented  by 
the  liberal  proprietor,  upon  their  promise  to  build  good  and 
substantial  houses  within  sixty  days  /)  who  had  well-nigh 
fallen  victims  to  the  prevailing  epidemic  called  "  fills  and 
cheever,"  or  "  tickled  to  death  "  by  mosquitoes  !  or  how,  in 
my  own  imagination,  my  property  fell,  when  I  found  that 
other  purchasers  were  glad  to  back  out  of  their  first  invest- 
ment and  "  let  it  slide,"  not  feeling  any  desire  to  make 


228  Drifting  About. 

farther  payments — how  it  would  again  rise,  upon  hearing 
the  Colonel  state,  in  his  eloquent  style,  that  it  was  the 
11  head  of  navigation,  and  must  be  the  grand  depot  of  all  ves- 
sels bound  to  the  Pacific !  and  that  he  had  sent  to  New  York 
for  i  one  hundred  iron  houses,'  which  would  arrive  before 
lnext  spring  '  or  '  the  fall,1  I  forget  which  /" — and  with  what 
mental  anguish  I  used  to  proceed,  again  and  again,  to  the 
beach  to  look  out  for  those  ships,  which  were  never  heard 
of  or  seen  !  But  this  suspense  I  could  stand  no  longer,  and 
accordingly  departed,  one  bright  morning,  in  a  small 
schooner,  to  look  after  my  property.  The  crew  consisted 
of  the  skipper  (a  thorough  Down  Easter),  two  men,  a  small 
boy,  and  myself.  We  were  informed  that  the  place  of  our 
destination  was  situated  at  the  "junction" — I'm  certain 
that  was  the  word — of  the  San  Joaquin  and  the  Suisun 
Bay,  rivers — that  it  was  impossible  to  mistake  the  locality, 
as  it  was  the  head  of  navigation !  Our  skipper  (who  had 
evidently  expected  to  see  a  flourishing  town)  had  fortified 
himself  with  several  large  charts,  quadrants,  compasses, 
maps,  and  telescopes  ;  but  on  the  tenth  day  out  he  seemed  to 
be  in  great  doubt  as  to  the  precise  whereabouts  of  the  "  city," 
and  I  noticed  that  he  walked  the  deck  in  a  very  .nervous 
and  excited  state,  muttering  to  himself  in  detached  sen- 
tences:  "Well,  neow,  I  swow,  if  ever  yer  ketch  me  on  to 
another  woyage  of  diskivery  sich  as  this,  I'm  darned! 
Whar  in  thunder  is  the  plaice  ?  I  don't  see  no  bildin's — 
nor  nothin  !  I  guess  we've  got  the  wrong  side  o'  the  river !" 
Upon  which  I  pointed  out  to  him  a  small  hut,  about  the 
size  of  a  hog-pen,  suggesting  at  the  same  time  that  proba- 
bly it  was  the  landing-place.  Jee-roo-sa-lem  /  cried  out  the 
capt'n,  giving  me  a  look  not  easily  forgotten,  and  with  a 
w-h-o-o-p,  and  a  scream  of  laughter,  he  tried  to  make  for 
the  landing.  In  doing  this  we  were  nearly  all  drowned  ; 
bow  I  got  on  shore  I  know  not  (the  "  lots  "  never  entered 
my  head  once),  but  I  do  know  that  I  hollered  out  to  some 
men  to  take  me  off  in  a  whale  boat,  I  cared  not  whither, 
for  what  with  the  excessive  heat,  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes, 
and  the  utter  desolation  and  dreariness  of  the  prospect  (?) 
death  seemed  more  preferable  than  a  "  stay  "  in  "  this  hor- 
rible place." 

The  schooner  thought  otherwise,  and  remains  to  this  day, 


Drifting  About. 


o 


229 


high  and  dry,  on  one  of  the  "  water  lots."  My  property 
was  on  the  corner  of  C  and  Second  streets,  right  opposite 
the  (imaginary)  court  house ! — but  the  only  vestige  of 
humanity,  or  of  animal  life,  that  I  could  discover,  was  one 
bullock's  head,  very  much  flyblown,  a  very  dirty  looking 
Digger  Indian,  and  an  old  shoe.  The  improvements  since 
that  time,  have  not  been  of  a  very  extensive  character ;  and 
though  I  still  "hold  on,"  it  would  be  quite  difficult  accu- 
rately to  arrive  at  its  present  market  value,  or  its  precise 
location. 


THIS  WAS  MY  FIRST  "  REAL  ESTATE"  OPERATION. 

The  reader  will  be  good  enough  to  proceed  with  me  to 
the  Levee  City — Sacramento — and  step  into  the  office  of 
"  Priest  Lee  and  Co."  on  the  corner  of  J  and  Second 
street,  who,  at  that  time  (October,  1849)  were  immense 
merchants,  land  owners,  and  speculators  generally.  It  was 
here  then,  that  on  an  October  morning  bright  and  early, 
long  before  breakfast  (I'd  'a  got  up  in  the  middle  of 
the  night,  if  their  office  had  been  open),  I  laid  $5,000 
(five  thousand  dollars)  on  their  counter,  in  good  dust, 
for  a  lot  twenty  by  eighty  on  I  street  that  had  been 
sold  some  months  before  for  $100;  at  the  same  time  I  was 
quietly  informed  by  my  plausible  landlord,  that  it  would 
be  worth  $20,000  in  a  few  weeks.  The  second  edition  of 
the  first  flood  soon  followed,  the  waters  entirely  covering 
my  land  ouiliouse!  and  I  barely  escaped  with  my  life,  on 
the  back  of  a  large  cow.  that  was  swimming  down  the  street ! 
I  felt  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  real  estate  had  received 
its  death-blow,  and  that  I  had  better  sell  out  my  interest 
immediately.  Accordingly  I  intimated  to  my  excellent  1 
partner,  Charley  B.,  one  of  the  best  fellows  in  the  world —  f 
that  he  could  take  the  lot  back  at  a  fair  price,  which  he  I 
readily  agreed  to,  giving  me  the  money.  Now  mark  what 
I  did — at  the  old  "  Sutter  Hotel,"  there  was  one  day  a 
large  sale  of  "Real  Estate"  (the  water  at  the  same  time 
covered  the  entire  city,  do  not  forget  that !)  The  auctioneer, 
Col.  J.  B.  Starr,  was  offering  some  valuable  corner  lots  on 
7th  and  R  streets,  emphasizing  particularly  usually  in  his 


230  Drifting  About. 

eloquent,  and  fascinating,  and  glowing  style,  the  fact  of 
their  being  corner  lots,  the  witty  Col.  adding,  "  See,  gentle- 
men, you  can  cut  them  up  into  sixteen  beautiful  building 
lots — property  must  rise — after  the  water  leaves  us — I 
assure  you  the  depression  is  only  temporary — millions  are 
coming  from  all  parts  of  the  earth  to  settle  in  this  highly 
favored  land — and  this  is  the  spot  they  will  choose!"  Thus 
spoke  my  friend  with  the  "  hammer."  I  was  very  wretched 
— knew  not  what  to  do  with  my  money — I  couldn't  eat  it 
— I  had  no  place  to  put  it — and  it  wasn't  a  sufficient  pile 
with  which  to  leave  the  country,  and  what  to  do,  I  did  not 
know.  Some  cove  bid  $1,001  for  the  "  corner,"  /  bid 
$1,002.  This  lot  I  sold  in  about  sixteen  months  after 
to  Jesse  H.  for  $30  (thirty)  dollars. 


THIS   WAS   MY   SECOND   OPERATION. 

I  then  bought  two  lots  on  K  street  for  twenty-Jive  hundred 
($2,500),  and  was  at  one  time  offered  ten  thousand  dollars 
for  them,  and  ultimately  sold   them    for  eight   hundred 

($800). 

THIS  WAS   MY   THIRD   OPERATION. 

In  despair,  disgust,  and  a  fearful  description  of  mental 
torture,  that  I  hope  never  again  to  experience,  I  came  down 
to  San  Francisco,  thinking,  perhaps,  to  recover  myself  by 
making  a  small  investment  in  a  "  water  lot ;"  everybody 
imagining  his  fortune  made,  could  he  obtain  one.  I  accord- 
ingly, at  a  sale  of  real  estate  of  the  property  of  Alcalde 
Geary,  now  Col.  John  W.  Geary,  made  by  Kendig,  Wain- 
wright  and  Co.,  (Ned  Byrne  assisting,)  paid  $100  cash  for  a 
"  valuable  piece  of  property,"  as  the  bills  said,  somewhere 
near  u  Rincon  Point."     This  I  sold  for  $120  to  my  friend 

Sam  W ,  and  it  is  now  (probably)  worth  $50,000  or 

$60,000  !     Peter  Simple  title  (clear  and  confirmed). 


AND  NOW   FOR   MY    FOURTH    AND   LAST   OPERATION! 

,  The  purchase  of  the  piece  of  land  known  as  "  Pipesville," 
situated  near  the   large  marsh,   right   by   the    bridge,   on 


Drifting  About.  231 

Mission  street,  has  entirely xured  me  of  any  further  desire 
to  invest  any  extra  change  I  may  have  at  any  time  in  "  real 
estate."  I  sicken  at  the  very  word — and  yet  I  am  not 
sorry  I  made  the  purchase.  The  circumstances  are  briefly 
these.  Upon  my  return  to  California  in  December,  1853, 1 
still  felt  that  I  would  like  to  take  a  small  chance,  once 
again,  at  "Land,"  by  which  so  many,  since  my  absence 
from  the  country,  had  become  rich  ;  and  having  at  the 
same  time  more  money  than  brains,  I  made  my  desire 
known  to  a  large  and  successful  land  owner,  and  personal 
friend,  who,  in  reply,  most  kindly  remarked,  that  he  would 
u  keep  me  in  his  eye."  This,  I  thought,  most  liberal  and 
considerate,  and  I  felt  perfectly  safe,  and  sure  of  a  speedy 
turn  of  good  luck.  The  day  at  length  came,  the  purchase 
was  made,  and  when  with  this  announcement  my  disinter- 
ested friend  informed  me  (in  answer  to  my  query  as  to  the 
exact  location  of  the  property,)  that  there  was  a  house 
included  in  the  purchase,  my  enthusiasm  knew  no  bounds. 
The  idea  of  owning  a  house  in  this  expensive  country  !  I 
could  neither  eat,  sleep,  nor  drink  ;  couldn't  even  wait  for 
the  omnibus,  but  footed  it  immediately  to  Mission  street, 
arriving  at  the  "  Bridge"  in  a  profuse  perspiration.  Now 
the  only  houses  visible  were  Mr.  Moss's  elegant  mansion, 
known  as  "  Beverly  Lodge,"  and  some  white  cottages  on 
the  other  side  of  the  "  creek,"  owned  by  some  distinguished 
members  of  the  "  stock  and  buckskin."  Of  course,  I  did 
not  venture  to  pull  the  bell  of  the  lordly  castle  of  the  first 
mentioned  gentleman  ;  but  I  did  think  that  one  of  the  three 
or  four  white  cottages  had,  by  one  of  those  peculiar  twists 
and  turns  of  California  luck,  fallen  to  my  "  lot."  I  tapped 
at  the  door  of  one  or  two,  inquiring  if  they  knew  of  any 
sale  having  been  lately  made  of  a  valuable  house  and  lot 
"in  that  vicinity?  When  one  of  the  neighbors,  pointing  to 
«a  patch  of  land,  seemingly  in  the  centre  of  the  swamp,  with 
a   thing   that   looked  like  a  pigsty  in  the  middle  of  it, 

remarked,  that  a  Mr.  S had  the  other  day  sold  that 

piece  of  property,  at  P.  and  D.'s  auction  rooms,  and  he  pre- 
sumed it  was  the  house  (!)  and  lot  in  question.  I  instantly 
rushed,  or  tumbled  down  the  hollow,  to  look  at  my  pur- 
chase, and  my  spirits  fell  ten  feet  deeper  than  the  lot, 
which  was  at  least  sixty  feet  from  the  grade  of  the  street! 


232  Drifting  About. 

Still  it  was  something;  it  had  a  door,  which  actually  opened  » 
a  window,  with  three  panes  of  glass -in  it,  and  a  small  bench 
in  front  to  sit  down  on  ;  and  I  consoled  myself  with  the 
thought,  that  it  was  a  step,  perhaps,  towards  a  fortune,  to 
be  the  rightful  owner  of  an  establishment,  even  humble  as 
this  in  California.  Time  flew  by,  my  property  did  not  nor 
has  it  yet  risen  one  cent  in  value,  and  I  have  bravely  got 
over  my  caring  if  it  ever  ivill.  I  do  not  now  get  up  at 
early  morn,  and  sit  on  the  old  fence,  or  the  railing  of  the 
bridge,  for  hours  together,  waiting  for  it  to  "look  up."  I 
indulge  no  more  in  vain  and  useless  speculations  as  to  when 
they  will  commence,  to  sfty  nothing  of  completing,  the 
"  Market  Street  Eailroad."'  I  care  not  whether  the  "  toll" 
is  abolished  or  not ;  I  would  not  give  a  fig  to  know  whether 
it  is  out  of  or  in  the  "  city  limits ;"  or  if  it  is  covered  by 
the  Bolting  and  Barren,  the  Ly-mantour,  or  any  other 
claim.  It  is  sufficient  for  me  to  know  that  it  is  mine,  by 
right  of  purchase ;  that  it  is  all  paid  for,  and  by  money 
honestly  earned  by  me  in  this  great  and  glorious  country; 
that  the  "  city  and  county"  taxes  are  all  paid-;  and  that  I 
have  a  faithful  and  trustworthy  German  "  retainer"  (doubt- 
less some  exiled  nobleman),  who  is  supposed  to  pay  me  one 
dollar  a  month  rent  (cash),  but  which,  by  some  extraordi- 
nary system  of  hocus  pocus,  I  never  receive. 

And  now,  dear  reader,  permit  me  to  tell  you  that  your 
humble  servant  is  himself  the  nomenclator  of  this  pleasant 
spot.  It  pleased  me  to  call  it  "  Pipcsville."  Have  you  any 
objection  ?  And  once  upon  a  time  I  thought  how  jolly 
and  cozy  it  would  be  to  have  a  little  "  cottage"  of  one  s 
own,  eh  ? — to  read,  chat,  write,  smoke,  and  think  in !  The 
idea  was  no  sooner  entertained,  than  I  found  myself  at  a 
"  carpenter  and  builder's,"  and  in  a  short  time  my  little 
"  snuggery"  was  finished. 

And  here  I  am — not  exactly  rich,  but,  thank  God,  in 
good  health,  tolerably  happy,  and  at  ease.  From  my  little 
window,  the  view  of  the  bay,  the  shipping,  and  surround- 
ing country— the  range  of  hills  of  the  Contra  Costa,  with 
the  high  peak  of  old  Mount  Diablo  looming  up  in  the 
distance,  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  I  feel  while  dotting 
down  these  (perhaps  to  you  tedious)  random  thoughts, 
that  there  is  something  pleasant  in  life  after  all,  and  that  a 


Drifting  About. 


233 


good  many  of  us,  at  least,  are  the  makers  of  our '  own 
miseries.  I  am  now  a  fixture  ;  this  is  my  homestead — and 
from  this  snug  little  ten  by  twelve  room,  my  friends,  and 
the  public,  if  they  please,  shall  occasionally  have  a  "  word 
or  so"  from  their  obedient  servant, 

Jeems  Pipes  of  Pipesville. 

P.  S. — My  "Ranch"  was  broken  into  a  short  time  since, 
and  this  is  to  inform  any  future  thieves,  robbers,  house- 
breakers, etc.,  that  there  is  nothing  here  of  the  slightest 
value,  nothing  but  my  books,  papers,  and  writing  materials, 
which  ought  to  be  left  stationary.  So  the}r  may  spare 
themselves  the  trouble  of  again  breaking  my  door  open. 
Should,  however,  they  still  persist,  my  retainer  (a  stalwart 
German),  who  now  sleeps  inside,  is  fully  prepared,  to  give 
them  a  warm  reception.  J.  P.  OF  P. 

Dated  from  my  Ranch,  "  Pipesville,"  Mission  street,  San 
Francisco,  Cal.,  April  20,  1855. 


Upon  my  return  to  San  Francisco,  I  entered  the  law-office 
of  "  James  Doyle,  Barber  &  Boyd,"  remaining  with  them 
some  two  years.  Many  and  exciting  were  the  scenes  that 
occurred  during  that  period,  some  of  the  more  important 
of  which  I  will  briefly  refer  to. 

Somewhere  about  this  period,  the  greatest  consternation 
seized  the  owners  of  "  real  estate,"  in  reference  to  the  con- 
firmation of  the  "  different  claims"  by  the  Land  Commis- 
sioners. 


234  Drifting  About. 

Now,  as  my  property  was  purchased  entirely  unbeknown 
to  me,  by  my  distinguished,  disinterested,  and  wealthy 
friend,  Squire  P.  Dewey,  Esq., — my  superior  officer,  Ho- 
race P.  Janes,  Esq.,  generously  offering  to  advance  me 
$800  of  the  purchase-money — I  had  not  the  slightest  doubt 
as  to  the  u  title" — indeed,  I  had  no  opinion  about  the 
matter  either  one  way  or  the  other.  But  it  was  suggested 
to  me,  that  there  would  be  no  harm  in  my  writing  a  busi- 
ness letter  upon  the  subject  to  General  James  Wilson — a 
particularly  worthy  and  pleasant  gentleman — and  having 
preserved  a  copy,  I  herewith  present  it  to  the  reader : 

It  appeared  in  the  San  Francisco  "  Herald,"  26  January, 
1856: 

LETTER  FROM  MR.  JEEMS  PIPES  TO  MR.  LIMANTOUR. 

"  Pipesville,"  Near  a  large  Marsh,  right  hy  the  "  Bridge,"  ) 
Mission  street,  Yellow  Cottage,  San  Francisco.         ) 

My  dear  Sir  : — The  state  of  mind  to  which  I  am  driven  by  the  fact 
of  the  confirmation  by  the  Land  "  Commission  Merchants  of  your 
claim  to  all  the  lands  running  from  the  Bay  of  Biscay  to  Point  Lobos 
in  the  North,  and  to  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  in  the  South,  may  be  by 
you  conceived,  but  certainly  cannot  be  described  by  me ;  and  I  now 
take  the  earliest  opportunity  to  state  my  case,  calling  your  attention 
first  to  my 

™"  ABSTRACT    OF   TITLE 


which,  though  being  rather  complicated,  and  entirely  unintelligible  to 
myself,  may  be  sufficiently  "  satisfactory "  (as  the  noble  order  of  E 
Clampus  Vitus  gentlemen  observe)  to  you  to  induce  you  to  respect  my 
claim. 

1  Deed   dated   1st   April,      02.      Recorded 
to  >-  liber  A,  page  (R.  G-.  &  Co.)  Consideration 

Cane,  Abell  &  Co.      )  — (a  good  deal.) 

James  Grants,  bargains,  sells,  and  confirms,  all  that  uncertain  piece, 
parcel  or  lot  of  land,  situate  Lying,  and  being  in  the  City  of  San  Fran- 
cisco.    Describing  the  same  by  long  and  short  metre. 

Cane,  Abell  &  Co.         }  Deed    dated  1776.     Never    recorded, 
to  >  Consideration — the  U.  S. 

General  Washington.        ) 

General  Santa  Anna,         J  Deed   (of  blood)    dated  1846. 
to  >  Recorded  (in  History.)     Con- 

The  People  of  the  United  States.  )  sideration— $78650987659854:3 
2987607070760. 

Grants,  bargains,  sells  the  whole  of  Oregon,  California,  (including 
"Pipesville,"    mind  that,)  Rincon  Point,  Mission  Dolores,    and  the 


Drifting  About.  235 

Pueble;    commencing  wherever  the   United  States  commences,  and 
ending  where  it  ends ! 

City,  State  and  County  taxes  are  all  paid. 
The  People  of  the  United  States,  )  Deed  dated  1852.     Recorded  in 
to  S-  liber  B  (p.  179.)   Consideration 

B.  F.  Sterett.  )  — $  (a  large  sum.) 

B.  F.  Sterett,  )  Deed  dated  January  1854.     Recorded  in  liber  D  (p. 
to  >  199.)     Consideration— $  (a  large  sum.) 

Jeems  Pipes.    ; 
Hoping  the  above  abstract  will,  with  the  assistance  of  Doctor  Watts, 
enable  you  to — "  Read  my  title  clear," 

I  remain,  Deer  Sir,  yours  truly, 

Jeems  Pipes,  of  Pipesville. 


The  gallant  General  immediately  sent  me  a  M  clear  deed," 
and  the  proper  documents  from  Limantour — for  which  he 
will,  at  this  late  day,  accept  my  thanks. 


LXX. 

A  PIKE   COUNTY  WEDDING. 

Accepting  the  invitation  of  a  friend  to  join  him  com- 
pany on  a  brief  trip  to  the  "Sulphur  Springs"  of  Sonoma 
Valley,  on  a  bright  October  morning  of  this  year ;  I  left 
this  city  of  "  wind  and  dust,"  for  the  quiet  little  town  of 
Benicia,  proceeding  thence  to  Napa,  where  of  course 
(excuse  the  joke)  I  slept — arriving  at  the  "  Springs"  duly 
the  next  day. 

I  found  out  at  the  Hotel,  that  a  wedding  was  "  coming 
off,"  or  "  going  on  "  in  the  evening,  to  which  I  and  my 
friend  were  invited ;  and  as  it  was  my  first  introduction 
into  real  genuine,  Simon  pure,  "  Pike  County  "  society — it 
not  only  amused  me  greatly — but  I  will  try  and  give  my 
readers  the  benefit  of  my  observations. 

About  eight  o'clock  the  bride  and  groom  entered  the 
room,  looking  pale  and  agitated — but  apparently  com- 
pletely resigned. 

It  would  have  been  a  matter  of  very  little  difficulty  to 
have  driven  a  moderately-sized  horse  and  cart  between 


236  Drifting  About. 

thern,  so  great  was  the  distance  they  stood  apart.  The 
bride  was  dressed  in  a  green  silk  gown,  very  short-waisted 
— high-necked,  with  short  sleeves — showing  a  pair  of  red 
arms,  with  long  hands  attached,  squeezed  into  a  pair  of 
large-sized  "  men's  8's." 

The  groom  wore  a  blue  coat,  with  buttons  that  once 
were  gilt — and  (for  it  was  warm  weather)  light  pants  of  a 
very  dubious  cut,  with  long  straps,  surmounted  by  a  very 
short  waistcoat. 

They  were  then  requested  to  seat  themselves  upon  the 
sofa,  which  they  accordingly  did,  one  at  each  end. 

The  minister  then  stood  up,  placing  a  chair  before  him, 
poised  upon  two  legs — and  leaning  on  the  cushion,  com- 
menced the  ceremony  by  saying,  in  the  most  peculiar  nasal 
tone  of  voice — 

"  If  thar  air  any  parsons  here  who  kneoio  any  jest  reson 
why  these  teou  couple  shood  not  be  united,  in  the  bounds  of 
holy  wedlock,  let  'em  speak  right  eoutP 

An  awful  pause  ensued,  interrupted  only  by  the  parson 
himself — singing  out, 

"  I  pronounce  you  man  and  wife !" 

Then  commenced  any  quantity  of  kissing — the  brother- 
in-law  of  the  bride  becoming  so  fearfully  excited,  that  he 
rushed  to  embrace  the  bridegroom  first. 

Soon  after  this,  supper  was  announced,  and  the  wedded 
pair  proceeded  to  the  supper  room. 

When  seated  at  the  table,  the  waiter  asked  the  bride 
what  she  would  take  for  supper. 

The  bride  replied,  "I  should  like  ter  know  what  you 
have  got,  first." 

"Beef  and  pork,"  says  the  waiter. 

"  Well,  I  don't  mind  if  I  do  take  a  small  chunk  of  your 
pork,"  says  the  bride. 

The  waiter  rushed  to  get  the  desired  "  titbit,"  when  a 
man,  coming  in  an  opposite  direction  with  a  large  dish  of 
apple  sauce,  lumped  up  against  him  ;  both  tumbling  down 
with  an  awful  crash,  the  bridegroom  turned  sharply  round, 
and  wished  to  know,  "  What  on  airth  they  were  doing  on?" 

Some  fruit  being  on  the  table,  the  bride  reached  forth  her 
hand  to  get  some  grapes,  when  her  husband,  with  a  look  of 
intense  horror,  cried  out—/ 


Drifting  About.  237 

"  Ma-ree,  don't  yer  eat  them  'ere  grapes,  coz  you've  had 
the  cliaree,  and  't  aint  good  for  yer!" 

The  reader  can  imagine  the  feelings  of  the  company. 

Supper  ended,  they  proposed  a  dance ;  the  band,  com- 
posed of  one  fiddle  and  a  small  fife,  playing  the  "  Arkansas 
Traveller." 

We  then  retired  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning,  bright  and  early,  a  buggy  was  standing 
at  the  door,  ready  to  take  the  "  happy  couple"  away. 

11  Good  morning,  bride,"  said  one  of  the  ladies,  as  the 
blushing  wife  appeared. 

" Ihaint  no  ivife  neow  neither"  said  she. 

"  Well,  that's  a  pretty  compliment  to  your  husband, 
anyhow,"  rejoined  the  lady. 

"  Haint  got  no  husband  neither"  said  the  lady  from  Pike. 

This  the  bridegroom  couldn't  stand,  so  coming  up,  he 
cried  out, 

11  Yes  yer  have,  Ma-ree — Fve  got  the  certificate." 

"  Whar  ?"  says  the  bride. 

"In  my  trowses  pocket!" 

A  general  laugh  followed,  during  which  the  pair  "  bolted." 


LXXI. 

SKEDADDLING  OF  BANKERS. 

Wondrous  and  astounding  were  the  events  in  the 
monetary  and  financial  world  about  this  time.  Bankers, 
monetary  agents,  exchange  brokers  "  busted  "  entirely,  and 
the  community  seemed  paralysed  with  the  announcement 
that  the  banks  had  suspended. 

First  went  Page,  Bacon  &  Co.,  then  Adams,  then  some 
of  the  smaller  fry,  such  as  the  Miners'  Bank,  Savings 
Bank  (?),  etc. 

Some  ludicrous  scenes  occurred  on  the  17th  and  23d  of 
February. 

At  the  first  run  on  Page,  Bacon  &  Co.,  their  doors  were 
besieged,  crowds  pressing  in  with  looks  of  horror  depicted 
on  their  faces,  intending  to  draw  out  their  little  all. 


238  Drifting  About. 

Men,  women,  and  children,  cabmen,  merchants,  longwharf 
Jew  slopsellers,  piemen,  candymen,  tailors,  barbers,  actors, 
priests,  circus  riders,  water  carriers,  omnibus  drivers,  edit- 
ors, saloon  proprietors,  Frenchmen,  Germans,  Italians, 
Greeks  and  Swiss,  "  fancy  women," — pushed,  shoved, 
crowded,  jammed,  raved,  and  stormed — bumping  up 
against  one  another,  the  perspiration  rolling  down  their 
faces  in  streams. 

One  woman  rushed  down  in  a  cab,  carrying  with  her  two 
sacks  in  which  to  place  her  cash.  She  leaped  over  the  heads 
of  everybody,  and  jumping  upon  the  counter,  demanded 
her  money,  which  was,  as  soon  as  possible,  counted  out  to 
her ;  the  amount  was  ten  thousand  dollars,  and  she  went  on 
her  way  rejoicing. 

Some  there  were  who,  in  their  agony  of  doubt  and  sus- 
pense, offered  to  sell  their  certificates  of  deposit  at  a  great 
reduction  ;  and  I  was  told  of  two  or  three  instances,  where 
five,  ten,  and  fifteen  hundred  dollars  were  made  in  a  few 
minutes  by  an  hombre,  who  had  greater  faith  in  the  a  house" 
than  the  holders  of  their  paper  had,  by  buying  up  for  cash, 
at  a  fearful  discount,  their  money  certificates. 

I  noticed  some  who  were  lucky  enough  to  get  their  mo- 
ney out,  even  then,  wearing  the  most  forlorn  faces.  They 
knew  not  where  to  go,  what  to  do  with  it,  or  with  whom  to 
trust  it.  Up  and  down  the  streets  they  wandered,  running 
this  way  and  that — the  weight  of  the  oro  annoying  and 
troubling  them. 

With  uncertainty,  fear,  and  trembling,  they  looked  at  all 
the  banking  institutions  of  the  city — who  was  solvent? 
"  Minfe  Got,  vat  a  guntry !"  sang  out  the  Jew.  "  Sacre 
nonrft  Dieu  !"  cried  out  the  Frenchman ;  while  the  English- 
man insisted,  that  "  Hhif  'ed  sent  his  money  to  Hold  Hing- 
land,  as  'e  hort  to  'a  done,  it  'ud  been  all  right."  In  this 
the  Yankee  partly  agrees  with  him,  except  that  he  thinks 
"Uncle  SanCs  Treasury  Notes  would  have  been  a  leetk 
slicker  investment!" 


Drifting  About.  239 


LXXII 

THE    PANAMA  RAILROAD. 

The  great  event  of  the  year  1855  was  the  completion  of 
the  Panama  Railroad. 

Now,  instead  of  the  trouble,  annoyance,  and  danger  of 
muleback  riding,  you  are  wafted  from  ocean  to  ocean  in 
luxurious  cars. 

No  more  rivers  of  mud,  nasty  mule  traps,  broken  pieces 
of  pavement — no  more  donkeys  perpetually  stumbling  over 
and  against  rocky,  narrow,  and  dangerous  defiles — no  more 
extortion  of  the  filthy  natives  or  the  detestable  steamers  on 
lake  or  river. 

These  are  now  forgotten,  and  the  eye  is  gladdened  by  the 
sight  of  the  iron  bands  and  wooden  ties  of  the  rail. 

The  completion  of  this  railroad  should  be  regarded  by  all 
Americans  as  a  grand  national  triumph. 

For  a  long  time  past  the  most  powerful  European  nations 
schemed,  talked,  and  planned  of  the  best  mode  of  effecting 
this  enormous  undertaking;  but  it  remained  for  American 
enterprise  and  genius  to  complete,  in  a  few  short  years,  a 
work  that  baffled  the  skill  of  the  older  powers  of  Europe  to 
undertake. 

The  name  of  John  L.  Stephens  will  never  be  forgotten. 

He  first  deemed  the  scheme  feasible,  and  in  the  marshes 
and  dismal  swamps  of  the  Isthmus  he  labored  until  stricken 
with  disease  and  death. 

He  was  followed  in  this  great  work  by  Colonel  Totten, 
of  the  U.  S.  Corps  of  Engineers,  as  Superintendent  of  the 
Road,  who  first  joined  the  enterprise  in  its  infant  state; 
and  most  faithfully  has  he  performed  his  duty ;  sparing  no 
energy — always  at  his  post — kind,  attentive,  and  humane 
to  those  under  him,  he  has  won  the  sympathy,  good  will, 
and  love  of  all ;  and  now  the  great  desire  and  wish  of  his 
life  is  triumphantly  consummated  at  last. 

Passengers  cross  now  in  four  hours  ;  it  took  me,  in  1849, 
eight  days ! 


240  Drifting  About. 

LXXIII. 

A  BANK    "BURSTS,"   AND   I  LOSE   MY  MONEY. 

Again  a  victim.  In  the  general  panic  that  now  seized 
hold  of  the  banking  institutions,  I  found  myself  slightly 
interested,  and  without  entering  more  minutely  into  par- 
ticulars (for  the  concern,  on  account  of  some  private  reasons, 
shall  be  nameless),  I  will  simply  state,  that  by  the  "  clos- 
ing" of  one  of  the  Montgomery  street  banks  I  was  rendered 

penniless ;  and,  at  the  suggestion  of  my  friend  J.  T.  D , 

gave  a  concert  at  the  Metropolitan  Theatre. 

I  believe  it  was  generally  conceded  that  a  more  brilliant 
assemblage  was  never  seen  in  San  Francisco;  and  when 
the  reader  is  informed  that  a  number  of  my  personal  friends 
took  $50  of  tickets  apiece — to  the  amount  of  $1000 — and 
that  at  the  door  over  $1500  were  received,  some  idea  may 
be  imagined  of  the  "  quantity "  of  the  audience,  to  say 
nothing  of  its  "  quality." 

The  success  of  this  night  determined  me  to  give  "  public 
entertainments  "  on  "  my  own  hook,"  a  la  Eussell,  Demp- 
ster, or  the  late  Albert  Smith ;  and  as  this  fact  changed 
once  again  the  current  of  my  life,  and  with  a  four  years' 
experience  in  various  parts  of  the  globe  to  the  "  method 
thereof,"  I  wish  to  say  a  few  words  to  those  who  essay  the 
task  of  giving  "  single-handed "  or  Monologue  Entertain- 
ments. 

LXXIV. 

MY. FUTURE   COURSE. 

If  any  person  thinks  it  an  easy  thing  to  entertain  an 
audience  for  two  hours  alone,  let  him  go  and  try  it — that's 
all! 

Now,  I  do  not  make  this  remark  because  I  think  I  have 
been  successful  in  accomplishing  this,  or  for  the  sake,  of 


Drifting  About. 


241 


self  laudation,  but  to  undeceive  those  who  vainly  imagine 
that  it  is  an  easy  or  quick  road  to  travel  to  obtain  a  "  for- 
tune.". 

"  Fame  "  may  possibly  be  obtained,  but  I  think  it  will 
be  conceded  that  a  "fortune,"  as  the  result  generally  speak- 
ing of  the  peregrinations  of  a  "  wandering  minstrel,"  is  the 
"  exception." 

Having  determined,  then,  to  adopt  for  the  future  the 
above  mode  of  earning  my  daily  bread,  I  started  once 
again  for  Sacramento,  got  out  my  programmes  and  posters, 
secured  the  Eev.  Mr.  Benton's  church,  and  was  comforted 
by  the  following  pleasant  notice  from  the  Union,  the  lead- 
ing daily  journal  of  the  city  : 

"  Stephen  C.  Massett,  pioneer  concertiser  of  Sacramento, 
poet,  and  by  no  means  unknown  to  fame  as  the  author  of 
many  humorous  effusions  over  the  signature  of  '  Jeemes 
Pipes,  of  Pipesville,'  is  to  give  a  grand  ballad  concert  this 
evening.  The  programme  is  brim-full  of  variety,  consisting 
in  part  of  comic  and  serious  readings,  songs,  selections  from 
the  poets,  recitations  and  representations  of  amusing  scenes 
and  characters,  &c,  &c.  The  versatility  of  talent  pos- 
sessed by  Mr.  Massett  is  an  undoubted  guaranty  that  the 
entertainment  will  be  attractive.  Mr.  M.  is  contemplating 
a  tour  through  all  of  the  mining  and  agricultural  sections 
of  the  State,  and  has  resolved  to  devote  himself  for  the 
future  exclusively  to  this  profession  ;  and  none  who  know 
the  man  will  for  an  instant  doubt  that  it  is  the  one  for 
which  he  is  in  every  respect  fitted.  The  concert  is  to  be 
given  in  Rev.  Mr.  Benton's  church,  and  tickets,  which 
have  been  placed  at  the  low  price  of  one  dollar,  are  to  be 
obtained  at  the  music  stores,  hotels,  and  the  door.' 

It  would  be  tedious,  difficult,  and,  indeed,  unnecessary, 
for  the  reader  to  follow  me,  either  to  commiserate  me  for 
my  losses  or  rejoice  at  my  successes  in  my  subsequent  trip 
through  the  Northern  mines  and  Oregon,  and  I  shall  con- 
tent myself  by  simply  giving  a  very  brief  account  of  my 
ramblings  as  a  public  performer — relating  one  or  two 
rather  amusing  incidents — until  the  period  of  my  departure 
for  Australia. 

11 


242  Drifting  About. 


LXXV. 

SOME  OF  THE  TROUBLES  OF  A  WANDERING  MINSTREL. 

I  think  one  of  the  most  painful  and  decidedly  uninter- 
esting sensations  experienced  by  those  resting  entirely  upon 
their  own  individual  merits  for  the  attraction  of  an  audience, 
is  the  one  of  doubt,  as  to  whether  there  will  be  a  large  or 
small  number  to  greet  him.  Now,  as  I  have  felt  this 
sensation  in  a  greater  or  less  degree  as  often  as  most  young 
beginners,  the  reader  shall  be  initiated  in  some  of  the  mys- 
teries of  the  feeling. 

I  was  at  a  place  called  Oroville,  then  a  dismal  looking 
mining  town,  but  rich  with  the  "  gold  that  perisheth,"  a 
few  wooden  nouses,  innumerable  tents,  any  quantity  of 
lawyers,  hotels  made  of  canvas,  streets  knee-deep  in  mud, 
bar-rooms  innumerable,  and  of  course  a  theatre — called  the 
American. 

It  was  in  this  building  that  my  "  Concert"  was  to  come 
off." 

I  had  been  congratulated  upon  my  arrival  by  several 
friends  known  before  in  Sacramento,  who  appeared  quite 
delighted  at  my  advent,  expressing  at  the  same  time  not 
only  their  belief  that  the  house  would  be  crowded,  but 
the  promise  that  they  would  be  at  hand  with*  all  their 
friends ! 

I  suggested  that  it  looked  like  rain,  and  that  the  streets 
were  almost  impassable  from  the  mud  and  slush,  and  that 
the  "  ladies"  (I  think  there  were  about  six  in  the  town) 
would  find  it  impossible  to  " piroot"  thither.  To  this  they 
replied,  that  that  didn't  matter,  they  all  wore  "jack  boots," 
and  cared  nothing  for  rain,  mud,  thunder,  and  lightning ! 

This  consoled  me  for  the  time.  Now,  I  wish  to  inform 
the  reader  (and  I  know  in  this  I  shall  get  the  sympathy  of 
my  "  professional  brethren")  that,  without  a  single  excep- 
tion, it  has  invariably  rained  on  the  first  night  of  my 
entrance  into  any  new  locality.  Yes,  from  Botany  Bay  all 
the  way  to  the  Hanover  Square  Rooms,  London. 

My  "  Hotel,"  if  such  it  could  be  called,  was  "  located" 


Drifting  About. 


243 


immediately  in  front  of  the  Temple  of  Thespis,  and  accord- 
ingly I  could  watch  the  pulse  of  the  public  pretty  well, 
without  being  diskivered,  or  subjecting  myself  to  the  vul- 
gar gaze  of  "  Pike"  a  very  peculiar  institution  in  those 
days. 


^^v^ 


To  those  of  my  readers  not  exactly  "  up"  to  the  mean- 
ing of  the  word  last  italicised  I  would  say  that  to  the  best 
of  my  information  and  belief,  there  is  a  county  of  that 
name  somewhere  in  Missouri,  from  which  locality  many 
thousands  have  emigrated  to  California.  Now,  these  "  Pike 
countyans"  are  a  most  extraordinary  looking  set  of  people, 
and  though,  I  suppose,  as  the  world  wags,  there  are  as  many 
"decent  folk"  among  'em,  as  in  any  other  portion  of  the 
globe,  they  certainly,  in  their  appearance,  manners,  and 
talk,  are  entirely  sui  generis,  and  unlike  any  other  human 
beings  I  have  met  with  in  my  travels. 

The  men  are,  as  a  general  thing,  hugely  and  squarely 
built,  broad-shouldered,  very  long  arms,  large  coarse  hands 
(whose  "  grip"  I  would  ad-wce  persons  to  avoid),  lanky 


244  Drifting  About. 

legs,  with  a  thigh  so  long  that  when  they  sit  down,  half  a 
dozen  children  could  squat  thereon  with  ease.  Their  spare- 
time  is  occupied  in  "  whittling"  and  "  chewing," — the  "  arm- 
chairs" in  the  different  bar-rooms,  hotels,  and  "loafing" 
places,  bearing  pretty  strong  evidence  of  their  "cutting" 
and  "  slashing"  propensities.  They  affect  slouched  hats, 
generally  with  a  hole  in  the  top  (either  to  hang  it  up  by, 
or  to  let  the  wind  in  or  out),  and  turned  up  in  front.  Peep- 
ing from  beneath  a  very  ill-shaped  and  dirty  looking  patch- 
ed coat,  you  will  see  a  portion  of  a  dingy  colored  shirt, 
once  perhaps  red ;  the  nether  appendages  encased  in  a  pair 
of  tight  fitting  badly  cut  "  pants,  the  entire  suit  prevented 
from  falling  to  pieces  by  a  big  leather  "  strap"  round  the 
middle  with  a  clasp  in  front  with  the  letters  "  U.  S." 
engraved  thereon ;  a  knife,  a  pistol,  and  dirty  buck- 
skin bag  for  gold  dust  complete  the  appointments;  the 
feet — about  the  size  of  a  small  cradle — are  shoved  into  the 
largest  sized  pair  of  "  high  lows,"  sockless,  and  unwashed ; 
the  beard  is  worn,  as  nature  originally  intended  it  should 
be,  and  the  hair — of  every  indefinite  color — is  matted, 
shaggy,  and  uncomfortable  looking. 

Your  "  Pike"  countyian  is  not  very  communicative,  and 
is  apt  to  look  upon  everything  and  everybody  with  sus- 
picion ;  seldom  speaking  to  you,  unless  addressed  first, 
and  even  then  his  replies  will  be  extremely  laconic  and 
unsatisfactory. 

A  couple  of  these  worthies,  I  noticed  from  the  windows 
of  the  tavern,  were  reading  the  "  Poster"  on  the  door  of 
the  theatre,  and  as  I  thought  I  could  quietly  walk  by  and 
hear  their  views,  without  being  "  spotted"  as  the  unfor- 
tunate "  showman,"  I  crossed  over  the  way,  as  though  acci- 
dentally strolling  by,  when  Pike  No.  1  relieved  himself  as 
follows : 

What  in  thunder's  a  "Ballad  ConsartV 

Pike  2.  Wall — a  guess  it's  a  "  kinder  show"  and  play 
acting. 

Pike  1.  "  By  Jeems  Pipes  of  Pikesville."  Whar's  Pikes- 
ville,  I  wonder  ? 

Well— guess  we'll  have  to  go— tickets  two  dollars.  By 
golly— he'd  ben  glad  to  got  a  shilling  in  Missouri ! 

With  this  comforting  consideration  I  returned  to  my 


Drifting  About. 


o 


245 


"  quarters"  to  ruminate  upon  my  chances  of  success  in  the 
evening. 

"  Hotels,"  in  the  mining  towns  at  this  period,  were  pecu- 
liar institutions. 

The  dining-room  was  immediately  entered  from  the 
street  door,  the  furniture  consisting  of  two  or  more  long 
deal  tables  on  tressels,  with  benches  on  each  side ;  up  in 
one  corner  was  a  washbowl  with  a  jug  of  water,  a  very 
dirty  towel  hanging  from  the  wall,  and  a  comb  and  brush 
attached  to  a  string,  swinging  to  and  fro  like  the  pendulum 
of  a  clock  from  frequent  usage. 

A  "  Chinese  gong,"  or  an  immense  "  triangle,"  at  the 
hour  of  twelve  announces  to  the  crowd  that  dinner  is 
ready.  Instantly  a  rush  is  made,  and  the  greatest  disorder 
prevails.  "Boast,"  "boiled,"  "baked,"  "stewed,"  "fried," 
fat  and  lean,  disappear  with  lightning  rapidity,  gallons  of 
water  are  swallowed,  plugs  of  tobacco  are  thrust  into  the 
mouth,  and  the  teeth  picked  with  a  large  jack  knife,  and 
all  is  over  in  about  fifteen  minutes. 

The  "  sleeping"  apartments  are  not  of  the  most  elegant 
description. 

The  one  I  had  was  furnished  with  a  narrow  cot,  with  a 
bed  of  straw  encased  in  a  red  blanket,  a  broken  pitcher 
containing  about  half  a  pint  of  water,  a  quarter  of  a  yard 
of  a  dirty  looking  piece  of  cotton  for  a  towel,  and  half  an 
inch  of  a  tallow  candle,  stuck  in  a  bottle,  completed  the 
furniture  of  the  apartment.  The  price  was  two  dollars  a 
day. 

The  reader  can  imagine  there  was  not  much  in  the  sur- 
roundings of  my  habitation  to  inspire  me  with  a  very  great 
deal  of  enthusiasm  for  the  labors  of  the  night.  Well,  the 
hour  arrived,  and  the  rain,  as  usual,  was  on  hand. 

I  mustered  up  sufficient  courage  to  cross  over  about  a 
quarter  to  eight,  peeped  in  at  the  door,  and  saw  about 
a  dozen  fellows  in  the  pit  smoking,  spitting,  reading  the 
programmes,  and  one  or  two  indulging  in  remarks  not 
at  all  complimentary  to  me  (there  was  a  woodcut  of  me 
on  the  bills,  that  resembled  more  the  head  of  a  murderer, 
or  disappointed  pickpocket,  as  appears  in  the  Police  Ga- 
zette, than  anything  else),  some  were  gazing  with  intense 
interest  at  the  drop  curtain,  and  speculating  as  to    who 


246  Drifting  About. 

the  figures  were  intended  to  represent ;  one  insisting  that 
it  was  "  William  Penn,"  making  the  treaty  with  the  In- 
dians, another  with  a  fearful  oath  knew  that  it  was  Cap- 
tain Cook,  as  he  appeared  immediately  before  being  eaten 
by  the  savages,  and  a  third  that  it  was  Adam  and  Eve 
before  being  snaked  out  of  the  Garden  of  Eden. 

The  last  man  was  right — and  at  the  tinkling  of  a  little 
bell,  our  first  parents,  the  snake,  the  trees,  Captain  Cook 
and  William  Penn,  were  rolled  up  into  as  fine  a  dumpling  as 
ever  faced  a  baker's  oven. 

I  had  a  "Melodeon"  in  those  days  (as  pianos  were 
difficult  to  obtain)  upon  which  I  accompanied  myself  in  my 
songs.  Now  this  has  not  a  very  lively  effect,  either  upon 
the  performance  or  the  audience — the  music  emitted  there- 
from being  a  sort  of  cross  between  an  accordeon  and  a  barrel 
organ — at  the  same  time,  I  have  to  keep  in  the  wind  by  a 
perpetual  movement  of  the  right  foot  on  the  "  pedal,"  ah  : 
if  for  a  second  I  miss,  the  M  bellows"  indignantly  resigns 
its  office — the  machine  gives  a  feeble  and  dying  squeak — 
and  I  am  left  to  the  tender  mercy  of  my  audience. 

It  was  during  a  very  pathetic  rendering  of  the  opening 
song,  "  When  the  Moon  on  the  Lake  was  beaming,"  that 
this  fatal  casualty  happened — and  to  add  to  the  miserable 
state  of  my  feelings — which  I  do  trust  will  be  fully 
appreciated  by  the  reader — I  was  requested  to  "  dry  up"  by 
somebody  in  the  pit. 

Now  whether  this  suggestion  had  anything  to  do  with 
the  hydraulic  nature  of  the  ballad  in  question,  I  know  not ; 
— but  considering  it  was  only  the  commencement  of  a-  two 
hours'  performance  entirely  unassisted,  I  think  my  situa- 
tion deserved  some  sympathy. 

I  managed  to  "  get  through" — and  though  the  affair  was 
not  pecuniarily  successful — upon  the  whole  it  went  off  very 
well — and  upon  each  succeeding  occasion — particularly 
when  my  audience  was  of  that  peculiar  quality,  I  gained 
greater  confidence,  and  cared  less  for  the  trifling  annoy- 
ances. 

My  trip  through  the  Northern  Mines  was  upon  the 
whole  a  pleasant  and  successful  one. 

I  visited  "Shasta,"  "Downeville,"  (where  I  was  very 
cordially   greeted   by   my   old    partner    Mr.    now  Judge 


Drifting  About.  247 

Robert     H.   Taylor),     "Grass    Valley"    "  Weaver  ville" 
"Yreka." 

Crossing  the  M  Trinity  Mountain"  by  mules  to  "  Yreka," 
this  latter  u  City"  is  about  five  hundred  miles  from  San 
Francisco. 


LXXVI. 

LOLA  MONTEZ. 

At  "  Grass  Valley"  the  late  Madame  "  Lola  Montez" 
was  residing  in  a  very  picturesque  little  "  villa"  guarded  by 
a  large  sized  "  Bear,"  sundry  dogs,  parrots,  cats,  etc.     She 

and  Johnny  S received  me  very  hospitably,  and  the 

evening  passed  with  the  Countess  of  Landsfeldt,  and  the 
merry  groups,  there  and  then  assembled — among  them 
were  "  Gus.  S "  of  this  city,  and  Gil.  M ,  of  Balti- 
more— will  ever  be  remembered  by  me  with  pleasure. 

LXXVII. 

OREGON". 

Before  leaving  for  "Australia,"  I  determined  to  make 
a  brief  trip  to  Oregon. 

Accordingly  on  the  morning  of  July  21st,  I  left  San 
Francisco  in  steamer  "  Columbia,"  for  this  remote  portion 
of  "  Uncle  Sam's"  dominions. 

We  stopped  first  at  Crescent  City,  where  I  had  the  plea- 
sure of  greeting  Mr.  David  (now  County  Judge  of 
Klamath)  McComb  of  New  York,  then  connected  with 
Wells,  Fargo  and  Co.'s  Express — the  steamer  coming  to  an 
anchor  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  beach  in  an 
open  roadstead.  The  boat  was  lowered  away,  and  we 
started  for  the  beach. 

In  making  a  landing  here  (there  were  no  wharves  then), 
at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  surf  is  very  dangerous, 


248  Drifting  About. 

and  some  most  amusing  scenes  occur,  particularly  among 
the  ladies,  in  their  attempts  to  land  dryshod ;  and  the 
Chinamen,  in  their  passage  to  and  fro  from  the  mines,  to 
prevent  their  tails  from  becoming  wet — for  all  Chinamen 
wear  their  hair  very  long,  and  have  a  very  religious  horror 
of  wetting  it.  The  wind  was  blowing  a  gale  from  the 
south-west,  and  as  we  neared  the  bar  the  prospect  was  such 
as  to  make  us  feel  very  shaky.  An  amusing  scene  occurred 
in  passing  the  passengers  from  the  boat  to  the  steamer. 
Among  the  females  was  one  from  the  rolling  "  Zider  Zee," 
a  delicate  miss  weighing  about  three  hundred  pounds,  more 
or  less,  including  a  small  and  ugly  dorg,  who  in  attempting 
to  be  landed  in  the  boat  by  one  of  the  officers,  from  the 
ship,  lost  her  equilibrium,  and  with  her  arms  about  the 
officer's  neck,  who  was  trying  to  disengage  himself,  both 
commenced  a  series  of  gymnastic  leaps,  resulting  in  an 
immersion  to  the  depth  of  some  twenty  feet  in  a  cold  salt 
water  bath.  They  rose  to  the  surface  amid  roars  of  laughter, 
and  after  some  well  directed  efforts  with  boat  hooks,  etc., 
both  were  extricated. 

Ccescent  City  was  settled  about  two  years  since,  and  con- 
tains some  five  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  the  depot  for 
trade  to  the  mines,  which  are  located  some  seventy-five 
miles  in  the  interior.  The  place  has  one  Church,  a  Theatre, 
a  Hose  Company,  two  Express  Offices,  and  many  hand- 
some Billiard  Saloons,  and  I  saw  in  two  or  three  places 
"The  Spirit  of  the  Times"  on  file. 

We  next  stopped  at  "  Port  Oxford."  At  this  point  there 
has  been  a  Military  Post,  under  the  charge,  at  present,  of 
Lieut.  R  M.  Feely  of  the  4th  Infantry,  but  the  cessation 
of  the  Indian  hostilities  with  Eogue  Eiver  Yalley  has  led 
to  the  breaking  up  of  the  station.  There  are  some  one 
hundred  residents  here,  and  business  is  quite  limited.  The 
climate  at  this  season  of  the  year  is  mild  and  lovely.  On 
the  morning  of  the  25th,  our  steamer  arrived  at  u  Astoria," 
made  "  classic  ground"  by  the  immortal  pen  of  "  Geoffrv 
Crayon,  Gent,"  and  it  carried  me  back  to  the  days  when  I 
first  revelled  in  the  beauties  of  the  "Sketch-Book,"  the 
"Legend  of  Sleepy  Hollow,"  "  Kip  Van  Winkle,"  and  the 
book  which  bears  its  name  !  This  town  is  situated  about 
twelve  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  and 


Drifting  About.  249 

will,  I  think,  eventually  be  the  sea-port  town  of  Oregon. 
It  is  now  the  port  of  entry  for  this  Territory,  and  the 
Collector  General,  John  Adair  (no  relation  to  Robin !)  is 
one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  having  resided  here  some  ten 
or  twelve  years.  Lying  a  short  distance  above  the  town, 
upon  a  sunken  rock,  I  saw  the  wreck  of  the  good  old  ship 
"  Silvie  de  Grasse,"  formerly  of  the  Havre  line  of  Packets, 
owned  by  "Bolton,  Fox  and  Livingston"  and  singular 
enough,  one  of  our  passengers  had  made  a  voyage  in  her 
to  France  seventeen  years  ago!  and  there  she  lay  (after 
buffeting  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  the  storms  of  old 
ocean)  stripped  of  her  glory,  a  shapeless  mass  of  timber ; 
and  where  once  her  streamers  fluttered  the  sea-gull  roosts, 
and  the  waters  of  the  Oregon  wail  their  requiem. 


LXXVIII. 

THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER. 

The  Columbia  river  is  really  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
I  have  ever  seen.  I  have  written  from  the  Bosphorus,  the 
Rhine,  the  Rhone,  and  the  old  Hudson,  yet  must  I  proclaim 
from  this  distant  region,  the  majesty,  greatness,  sublimity 
and  beauty  of  this  the  finest  of  them  all !  As  our  stately 
steamer  moved  gracefully  through  its  placid  waters,  in  the 
far  distance  might  be  seen  looming  up  the  snow-capped  and 
gigantic  mountains  of  "  Hood,"  "  St.  Helens,"  "  Jefferson" 
and  "  Ranier,"  forming  a  superb  contrast  to  the  matchless 
and  variegated  colors  of  the  hill  sides  and  plains.  The 
banks  for  most  of  the  distance  are  very  steep,  and  covered 
from  their  base  to  the  top  with  tall  and  stately  fir  trees. 

The  waters  of  the  river  are  filled  with  fish  of  various 
kinds,  among  which  are  great  quantities  of  salmon  ;  some 
weighing  seventy-five  pounds  each.  Located  upon  the 
banks  of  the  river,  about  eighty  miles  from  Astoria,  is 
situated  the   pretty  little  town  of  St.  Helens,  at  which 

Elace  we  stopped  for  supplies.     There  are  here  about  two 
undred  inhabitants,  and  it  is  at  this  point  that  the  Pacific 

11* 


250  Drifting  About. 

Mail  Steamship  Company  have  erected  a  splendid  stone 
house  and  wharf,  at  the  expense  of  over  $35,000,  for  the 
accommodation  of  ships  and  steamers,  in  receiving  and 
discharging  freight  and  coal.  At  "  Vancouver's"  we  next 
stopped.  This  is  without  doubt  the  finest  location  for  a 
city  or  town,  of  any  I  have  visited,  and  the  depot  for  the 
U.  S.  Troops  for  the  Territories  of  Oregon  and  Washing- 
ton ;  and  the  9th  Infantry  are  at  present  stationed  there. 
Most  of  the  officers  of  this  Regiment  have  their  wives  and 
families  with  them.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  shaking  hands 
with  Captain  Wallen,  Captain  Ingalls,  Lieutenant  Hodges, 
and  many  others.  The  officers  of  this  garrison  are  noted 
for  their  attentions  and  hospitalities  to  strangers.  The 
parade  ground  covers  some  twenty  acres,  and  is  elevated 
fifty  feet  above  the  river,  commanding  one  of  the  finest 
views  of  the  surrounding  country.  From  this  point  we 
proceed  to  "  Portland,"  situated  on  the  Willamette  river, 
from  which  city  I  am  now  writing.  The  city  contains 
about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  is  prettily  built,  and  there 
are  some  four  or  five  churches ;  three  weekly  newspapers 
flourish  here,  and  there  are  many  schools,  and  one  chartered 
Academy ;  there  are  also  thirty -six  mercantile  establish- 
ments, a  large  foundry,  where  all  sorts  of  machinery  are 
cast,  and  indeed  all  kinds  of  manufactories  abound  here, 
and  their  owners  making  money.  There  are  six  river 
steamboats  now  running  from  this  city  to  various  points  on 
the  Columbia  and  Willamette  rivers,  and  two  new  ones 
building. — A  telegraph  line  extends  from  this  city  to 
Coorallis,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and 
the  intention  is  to  connect  it  with  the  Pacific  Telegraph 
Line  to  California,  thereby  forming  A  quick  communication 
between  this  and  San  Francisco.  I  can  hardly  believe  I 
am  writing  you  from  "  the  continuous  woods  where  rolls 
the^  Oregon,"  "  and  hears  no  sound,  save  his  own  dashing!" 
which  William  Cullen  Bryant,  in  his  Thanatopsis,  writes  about 
— yet  so  it  is — and  I  feel  I  am  further  off  than  I  ever  was 
before,  from  the  dear  old  City  of  New  York — yet  some- 
thing whispers  in  my  ear  that  there  shall  be  more  "  cakes 
and  ale,"  and  a  pleasant  shaking  of  hands,  ere  yet  the 
"  silver  cord  is  loosened,  or  my  pitcher  broken  at  the 
fountain !" 


Drifting  About.  251 


LXXIX. 

ASTOKIA. 

Astoria  lies  just  within  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river.  The  location  of  the  city  is  advantageously 
made,  but  hitherto  Portland  has  held  pre-eminence  as  the 
commercial  emporium  of  Oregon.  It  has  been  gradually 
manifest,  however,  that  the  navigation  of  the  Columbia 
from  its  mouth  to  Portland,  by  vessels  of  the  larger  class, 
would  not  continue  to  prove  profitable,  and  the  greater 
advantages  for  sea-going  ships  and  steamers  which  Astoria 
presents,  must  soon  give  a  considerable  impetus  to  its  growth 
and  bring  into  recognition  a  new  and  important  commer- 
cial port  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  the  United  States.  Already 
merchandise  finds  its  way  to  Astoria  from  Victoria  and 
other  points  in  British  Columbia,  to  be  transhipped  thence 
to  San  Francisco.  The  navigation  of  Puget  Sound  and  the 
Columbia  river  and  its  tributaries,  is  more  economically 
accomplished  by  a  smaller  class  of  vessels  than  those  which 
are  employed  between  San  Francisco  and  the  North  Coast. 
Astoria  thus  promises  to  become  the  chief  entrepot  for  the 
trade  of  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory,  and  may  soon 
prove  a  formidable  rival  of  Victoria,  as  the  warehousing 
and  distributing  point  for  a  large  portion  of  the  English 
colonial  settlements  in  the  North.  We  have  yet  seen  no 
notice  of  the  dawning  future  of  Astoria.  That  it  is  a  bright 
and  prosperous  career  which  awaits  that  hitherto  rather 
overlooked  and  neglected  little  city,  we  do  not  doubt,  and 
herewith  offer  our  congratulations  upon  her  new  birth  into 
commercial  consequence  as  one  of  the  ports  of  the  Pacific. 

At  this  flourishing  little  town  I  gave  an  entertainment, 
in  the  course  of  which  I  introduced,  as  one  of  the  "  Head- 
ings," Bryant's  "  Thanatopsis." 

I  prefaced  the  reading  with  the  following  introductory 
remarks : 

The  Poem  I  am  about  to  read  you  is  looked  upon  as  the 
masterpiece  of  the  American  poet,  William  Cullen  Bryant, 


252 


Drifting  About. 


and  it  was  in  relation  to  this  gem  (as  I  am  informed  by  mj 
friend  Mr.  Fitz  Greene  Halleck)  that  the  author  of  the 
Pleasures  of  Hope — the  poet  Campbell— remarked  that  had 
he  been  its  composer,  he  would  have  written  no  more,  as 
he  deemed  this  one  piece  sufficient  to  immortalize  any  one. 

I  fancy  when  Mr.  Bryant  wrote  this,  nearly  forty  years 
ago,  he  little  dreamed  that  it  would  ever  be  recited  in  so 
distant  a  region  as  Oregon — the  name  he  mentions  in  the 
poem — then  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  remotest  portions 
of  the  globe.     But  now,  how  great  the  change ! 

Civilization,  and  the  indomitable  will,  energy,  and  enter- 
prise of  the  American  people,  have  raised  cities,  where,  but 
a  few  years  since,  naught  was  heard  but  the  war-whoop  of 
the  Indian,  and  the  wilderness  has  indeed  been  made  to 
bloom  and  blossom  as  the  rose. 

It  was  my  desire  and  (if  possible)  intention  to  read  this 
poem  on  the  very  spot,  Astoria,  where  first  was  heard  the 
echo  of  the  axe  of  the  woodman,  breaking  the  solemn  still- 
ness of  the  hitherto  desert  wilds  and  forests  of  the  great 
Pacific  shores — and  my  wish  is  now  accomplished. 


Drifting  About.  253 


LXXX. 

A    RUNNING    TRIP    FROM    PORTLAND   TO    CORVALLES — ITS 
PERILS. 

Monday,  August  11. — I  left  for  Oregon  City  at  half-past 
two,  on  steamer  Jenny  Clark.  Day  yery  hot — three  pas- 
sengers— boat  couldn't  get  up  to  city  in  consequence  of 
M  low  water."  I  therefore  had  to  get  out  and  walk  about 
half  a  mile  over  some  rough  stones  to  reach  a  flat-boat,  in 
which  we  were  rowed  to  the  town.  Oregon  City  deadly 
lively — made  some  calls — next  day  bought  a  horse  for 

$200,  and  started  in  company  with  Br.  Mel for  Salem, 

distant  forty  miles. 

Day  lovely,  and  ride  most  pleasant — scenery  varied — 
prairie,  forest,  hill,  dale,  and  valley.  Stopped  at  a  farmer's 
to  take  a  bite  and  feed  horses ;  farmer  and  family  very 
primitive  and  very  peculiar.  Commenced  by  eating  two 
apples,  then  a  piece  of  very  greasy  pork,  some  bread — 
from  a  very  original  bakery — dipped  in  molasses,  and  some 
good  water — asked  for  the  bill,  and  found  it  was  "  six 
bits  " — cheap  and  nasty. 

Renewed  our  journey,  horse  rather  rickety — stumbled 
often  and  shied — getting  wery  hot  and  tired — horse  shied 
again — belly-girth  broke,  bringing  me  to  the  ground,  with 
one  leg  dangling  in  the  stirrup — covered  with  dust,  perspi- 
ration, and  fright.  The  mule  upon  which  my  melodeon  was 
strapped,  ran  off— my  agony  of  mind  great— assisted  on  my 

rosinante  by  Dr.  Mel ,  and  I,  by  the  united  aid  of  "  main 

and  tail,"  managed  to  keep  my  seat.  Donkey  out  of  sight 
with  box  of  music — rode  faster  and  faster — caught  sight  of 
donkey  in  a  turnip  field  "grazing,"  with  box  of  music 
hanging  by  a  cord — strapped  it  on  again,  and  proceeded  on 
our  journey — arrived  at  Salem  at  half-past  four.  This  is 
the  capital  of  the  State,  and,  like  Washington,  a  city  of 
magnificent  distances — succeeded  in  obtaining  a  piano,  and 
the  Court-House  for  a  concert.  Wednesday — concert  came 
off — people  pleased — room  lighted  with  six  tallow  candles 
— puff  of  wind  came  and  blew  'em%all  out — total  dark- 


254  Drifting  About. 

ness — eclipsed  anything  I  had  ever  seen  before — roars  of 
laughter — I  was  in  the  middle  of  singing  "  The  Light  of 
Other  Days  " — people  took  the  joke— I  didn't  think  much 
of  it. 

Started  next  day  for  Albany,  on  my  horse — distance 
twenty-five  miles — kept  losing  my  way,  and  finding  it 
again — scenery  superb — begin  to  feel  myself  a  pretty  good 
horseman. 

Arrived  at  Albany  about  two  o'clock — found  a  "city" 
composed  of  about  seventy-five  inhabitants — saw  two  men 
cross  the  street — saw  an  ox-team,  a  tin  shop,  a  school-house 
half  a  mile  from  any  habitation,  and  a  "  hotel "  with  no- 
body in  it — saw  in  the  bar-room  an  old  hat,  a  bridle,  half  a 
newspaper,  and  a  horse  collar — knocked,  and  nobody  came 
— knocked  louder,  and  the  result  the  same.  Went  in 
dining-room,  nobody  there — saw  two  girls  washing  dishes 
in  a  wretched  looking  place — asked  'em  if  I  could  have  my 
horse  taken  care  of? — she  said,  "didn't  know" — asked  if 
anybody  ever  lived  there,  and  if  this  wasn't  a  hotel  ? — she 
said,  "  guessed  it  was,  but  the  landlord  was  sick,  and  there 
was  nobody  in" — asked  her  if  she  wasn't  "  somebody  ?" — 
said  she  "  guessed  not " — asked  if  I  could  have  something 
to  eat  ? — said  she'd  see.  I  sat  down  most  despondingly — 
gal  set  the  table,  brought  me  a  plate  o'  ginger  cakes,  a  bit 
of  rank  butter,  and  a  piece  of  meat  on  a  skewer,  that  looked 
like  a  dried  rat  and  tasted  like  nothing  at  all. 

Horse  stood  outside  and  neighed  hard — asked  for  bill, 
and  found  it,  as  usual,  "  six  bits." 

Met  a  man  in  a  carpenter's  shop  (one  of  the  leading  citi- 
zens) who  introduced  me  to  a  "  Doctor,"  who  (another  of 
the  first  families)  told  me  that  he  would  like  me  to  stop  and 
give  a  concert,  but  he  did  not  think  he  could  "  scare  up  " 
more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  persons.  Thought  I  wouldn't 
"scare  'em" — thanked  the  carpenter  and  tinman,  who 
seemed  to  compose  the  town,  for  their  kindness  and  atten- 
tion, and  after  trying  to  imagine  a  glass  of  root  beer  was  a 
draught  of  Burton  ale,  I  left.  Passed  the  jail  with  one 
man  in  it.  I  was  informed  that  a  man  was  taken  up  at 
Corvalles  (of  which  flourishing  city  more  anon)  and  sent  to 
Albany  for  trial,  I  think  for  stealing  a  sheep.  The  author- 
ities managed  to  gefr  him  inside  the  jail  door,  when  he  (the 


Drifting  About.  255 

prisoner)  immediately  let  out  two  or  three  confined  there, 
knocked  down  and  locked  up  half  a  dozen  citizens,  and 
"  cut." 

Corvalles  was  reached  at  about  five  o'clock.  Met 
Dr.  Mel.  and  H.  G.,  who  are  putting  up  a  telegraph  to  run 
between  this  point  and  Portland.  Found  the  town  all  life 
and  bustle ;  lots  of  good  fellows,  who  welcomed  me  right 
heartily. 

Town  situated  on  a  magnificent  plain,  flanked  by  hills 
and  forests  and  beautiful  trees.  Healthful  breezes  from  the 
mountains  and  the  sea  prevail  all  the  time. 

Hotel  life  in  this  country  is  perfectly  awful.  It's  no  use 
— I  can't  eat  "  when  the  bell  rings."  They  breakfast  in  the 
middle  of  the  night,  dine  when  they  ought  to  be  breakfast- 
ing, and  take  supper  when  they  should  be  dining;  and  the 
"feed"  is  most  distasteful — all  noise,  dirt,  grease,  mess, 
slop,  confusion,  and  disorder ;  chunks  of  meat  of  all  kinds, 
and  no  flavor,  placed  in  plates,  and  "sot"  on  the  table; 
and  before  you  have  had  time  to  look  at  your  meat,  a  piece 
of  a  very  flat  pie,  with  a  doughy  crust,  and  dried  fruit  in- 
side, is  placed  under  your  nose,  or  on  the  same  plate  with 
your  meat.  Men  pick  their  teeth  with  forks  and  jack 
knives,  gobble  down  gallons  of  water,  and  "  slide."  This 
is  the  style  in  all  the  country  hotels  in  Oregon. 

Friday. — Concert  at  Court  House.     Mrs.  G ,  a  most 

delightful  woman,  very  kindly  loaned  me  her  piano.  Eight 
men  carried  it  on  their  shoulders;  four  keys  would  not 
speak,  and  the  pedal  was  quite  out  of  sorts — managed  to 
get  along.  House  was  quite  full — so  was  the  moon.  Went 
to  the  tavern,  and  tried  to  sleep ;  rooms  look  like  bathing 
establishments ;  walls  of  paper  muslin  and  thin  plank ;  hear 
all  sorts  of  noises  and  every  variety  of  snore ;  heard  a  report 
in  the  middle  of  the  night  like  a  subdued  gun — smelt  pow- 
der— a  little  scared  about  the  Indians ;  put  my  head  under 
the  red  blanket  (no  sheet).  A  great  big  bat  flew  in  at  the 
window,  and  I  bawled  out — thought  it  was  a  small  negro 
— probably  I  was  dreaming — awoke — found  no  place  to 
wash,  so  had  to  remain  dirty  ;  found  a  teaspoonful  of  water 
in  a  tin  cup — dipped  my  handkerchief  in  it,  and  imagined  I 
had  taken  a  bath. 

Shook  hands  with  half  the  town,  and  left  this  really 


256  Drifting  About. 

pleasant  place,  where  I  was  treated  with  much  kindness 

and  attention,  in  company  with  Commissary-General  C 

and  Dr.  Harry  G ,  together  with  a  bottle  of  rooster-tail 

to  sustain  us  on  our  return  trip  to  Oregon  city. 

Passing  through  Salem  and  Albany,  and  when  within 
three  or  four  miles  of  Salem,  feared  my  caballo  was  giving 
out ;  began  to  stumble,  at  last  fell  down,  throwing  me  into 
the  air  several  feet  high — horse  on  the  top  of  me;  he  began 
to  nibble  the  grass — I  to  take  a  "snifter;"  doctor  made  me 
a  sling — thought  there  was  no  ''arm  in  that ! ! ! — rest  of  the 
journey  I  sat  very  gingerly  upon  my  "  hoss." 

Arrived  at  Salem,  where  I  rested  at  the  quiet  and  hospi- 
table ranch  of  Mr.  C.  Gr.,  formerly  of  Washington  city. 

Greatly  indebted  to  him,  also  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gr ,  for 

the  use  of  their  piano,  and  many  others  for  acts  of  courtesy. 

Left  on  Sunday  morning  for  Oregon  city — day  bright 

and  pleasant.     Met  General  McO ,  formerly  a  neighbor 

of  mine  in  Sacramento — lunched  together. 

General  invited  me  to  his  house — charming  family — slept 
and  breakfasted  there — got  on  horse — glad  (horse  was)  to 
get  back  after  having  carried  me  three  hundred  miles  ! 

Left  next  day  for  Portland.  Saw  James  O'Niel,  Esq. — 
kind,  genial,  and  delightful — takes  me  around.  Went  to 
Fort  Vancouver ;  stopped  at  Col.  Thompson  Morris's 
quarters — most  kindly  received  by  the  officers,  one  and  all. 
Met  Capt.  Wallen,  Capt.  Ingalls,  Major  Alvord,  Lieuts. 
Hodges,  Wicker,  Withers,  and  Olven  ;  as  also  Mrs.  Wallen, 
Mrs.  Anger,  Mrs.  D.  Potts,  and  others.  Society  here  most 
delightful.  Superb  band  plays  on  the  parade  ground  night 
and  morning. 

Here  I  also  met  the  Rev.  Dr.  McCarty,  celebrated  in  the 
Mexican  War  as  the  "  fighting  priest,"  and  who  was  at  that 
time  chaplain  in  the  army. 

On  a  very  rainy  day  at  Buena  Vista,  he  was  heard  to  say, 
"  Gentlemen,  if  you  must  fight,  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep 
your  powder  dry  /" 

Saw  a  splendid  breed  of  pointers  at  Capt.  Ingalls'.  The 
other  day  the  Captain  killed  and  bagged  sixty-five  ducks 
in  three  hours ! 

Gave  a  Concert  in  Company  G.'s  quarters.  Thank  Cor- 
poral Fox  and  Sergeant  Fritz  for  their  services. 


Drifting  About.  257 

Went  to  head-quarters  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
Saw  Chief  Factor  Graham ;  very  civil  and  courteous  in 
showing  me  around.  Gov.  Dougal  McTavish  not  in.  Saw 
immense  warerooms,  filled  with  all  sorts  of  merchandise, 
from  a  toothpick  to  a  bale  of  cotton. 

Went  to  the  Indian  Keservation — saw  some  splendid 
"  squaws ;"  went  in  steamer  Senorita  to  Portland,  where  I 
met  my  old  friend  Frank  Panton,  of  New  York ;  left  again 
in  steamer  Columbia  for  San  Francisco.  Thus  endeth  my 
trip  to  Oregon. 

On  the  morning  of  my  departure,  the  True  Californian 
contained  the  annexed  graceful  farewells : 


"  DEPASTURE  OF  STEPHEN  C.  MASSETT  FOR  AUSTRALIA. 

"We  publish  below  a  very  graceful  poem,  by  Frank 
Soule,  addressed  to  the  above  mentioned  gentleman  on  his 
contemplated  visit  to  Australia.  We  have  been  acquainted 
with  the  veritable  Jeems  Pipes,  of  Pipesville,  for  a  long 
time ;  and  since  we  have  known  him,  we  have  learned  to 
admire  him  as  one  of  the  most  gifted  men  in  California.  He 
is  one  of  that  band  of  pioneers  who  very  early  immigrated 
to  this  state,  and  sought  to  tame  its  wild  spirits  by  the  cul- 
tivation of  music,  wit,  and  poetry. 

"  Some  of  Massett's  songs  have  taken  a  permanent  place 
in  the  temple  of  the  Muses,  and  many  of  ins  sketches  will 
last  as  long  as  the  memory  of  the  early  incidents  of  Califor- 
nia life.  He  who  has  never  listened  to  the  adventures  of 
the  Cockney  gentleman,  who  got  bitten  at  Hock  Farm  by  a 
dog,  and  in  San  Francisco  by  a  Bank,  has  hitherto  lived  in 
vain  ;  and  none  who  ever  heard  the  sweet  notes  of  'When 
the  Moon  on  the  Lake  is  beaming,'  as  they  have  died  upon 
the  lips  of  beauty,  can  ever  forget  them. 

"  Farewell,  inimitable  Jeems ;  and  when  across  the  broad 
Pacific,  if  the  cacoethes  scribendi  should  ever  seize  upon 
you,  remember  that  the  columns  of  the  True  Californian 
are  always  open  to  the  lucubrations  of  'Jeems  Pipes  of 
Pipesville.' " 


258  Drifting  About. 


LINES    TO    STEPHEN    C.     MASSETT. 

ON  HIS  DEPARTURE  FOR  AUSTRALIA. 

You're  going  far  away,  Steve, 

O'er  waters  deep  and  blue, 
The  winds  are  strong,  the  voyage  long 

That  you  must  buffet  through ; 

But  when  the  clouds  are  heaviest, 

And  breezes  pipe  most  shrill, 
Remember  there  are  loving  hearts 

That  think  upon  you  still. 

There's  treasure  in  that  land,  Steve, 

Beyond  the  Ocean  old  ; 
There  may  you  float,  and  change  each  note 

Of  music  into  gold. 

And  warm  hearts  in  that  southern  clime, 

And  true  hearts  will  you  find, 
But  none  more  faithful  than  a  few 

Which  you  will  leave  behind. 

"We'll  think  of  other  times,  Steve, 

And  pleasures  we  have  seen, 
Though  wind  and  wave  around  us  rave, 
And  oceans  spread  between. 

For  though  we  are  antipodes 

The  earth's  full  width  apart, 
There's  but  one  language  for  the  soul, 

One  climate  for  the  heart. 

So  whether  on  the  wave,  Steve, 

Or  in  the  music  hall, 
My  toast  shall  be  success  to  thee 

Where'er  thy  feet  may  fall. 

Bright  nuggets  for  thy  stories,  Steve, 

And  dust  and  lumps  untold, 
And  every  ballad  bar  you  sing 

Become  a  bar  of  gold. 

Frank  Soule. 

Ban  Francisco,  Sept  15, 1856. 


Drifting  About.  2J9 


LXXXI. 

THE  OTHER  LAND  OF  GOLD. 

On  Monday  the  8th  of  October,  1856,  I  took  passage 
in  the  French  barque  "  Foederis  Area,"  Captain  Cassimir 
Heauvenu,  bound  for  Melbourne,  Victoria. 

Now  upon  the  setting  out  of  these,  my  Australian  remi- 
niscences, I  wish  to  correct  a  little  geographical  error,  that 
obtains,  both  in  California  and  in  this  country,  in  relation 
to  the  localities  of  the  different  cities,  and  the  colonies  to 
which  they  owe  their  allegiance. 

There  are  four  distinct  colonies,  or  states,  as  we  call 
them,  viz.  New  South  Wales,  South  Australia,  Tasmania, 
or  (as  it  was  recently  called)  Van  Diemen's  Land,  and  Vic- 
toria. Now,  Sidney,  the  oldest  city  in  Australia,  is  the 
capital  of  New  South  Wales,  Melbourne  the  capital  of 
Victoria,  Hobart  Town,  the  capital  of  Tasmania,  and 
Adelaide  that  of  South  Australia ;  having  enlightened  the 
reader  upon  this  head,  I  drop  until  further  notice  my 
researches  geographical,  as  my  knowledge  of  that  illustri- 
ous science  is  about  on  a  par  with  my  attainments  arith- 
metical. 

By  this  time  the  reader  will  have  perceived  that  I  have 
been  pretty  well  used  to  the  sea,  and  never  having  been 
troubled  with  sea-sickness,  looked  upon  a  long  voyage 
with  about  as  much  indifference  as  going  up  the  Hudson 
river  to  Albany. 

This  journey,  then,  with  the  exception  of  one  other, 
about  which  I  shall  have  to  say  something  presently,  was 
one  of  the  most  tedious  I  had  yet  made. 

Of  the  passengers,  there  was  hardly  one  with  whom  I 
could  hold  any  communion,  and  the  captain,  officers,  and 
crew  all  French,  hardly  speaking  a  word  of  English. 

The  vessel  was  small,  badly  manned,  and  wretchedly 
provided.  Over  the  cabin-passengers,  of  which  there  were 
about  twenty,  composed  of  mechanics  and  their  wives,  and 
returning  emigrants,  I  cast  my  eye  in  vain,  after  being  at 


260  Drifting  About. 

sea  several  days,  for  a  genial  mate ;  the  one  hundred  and 
fifty  in  the  steerage  resembled  more  the  third  class  passen- 
gers of  an  emigrant  ship,  and  the  appearance  of  things  alto- 
gether was  to  me  most  dispiriting  and  uncomfortable. 

I  am  not  going  to  bore  you,  my  dear  reader,  at  this 
time,  or  any  other,  with  descriptions  of  a  sea  voyage,  they 
are  generally  most  monotonous  affairs,  and  particularly 
uninteresting  at  the  time  of  their  occurrence,  or  to  be  after- 
wards referred  to,  but  an  incident  of  so  strange  and  excit- 
ing a  nature  took  place  on  this  trip  that  I  shall  not  hesitate 
briefly  to  endeavor  to  describe  the  scene. 


LXXXIL 

AN    EXCITING    OCCUERENCE    AT    SAVAGE    ISLAND  IN  THE 
SOUTH  PACIFIC   OCEAN. 

We  had  been  at  sea  about  four  weeks,  and  were  enjoy- 
ing the  most  delicious  tropical  weather,  such  sunsets,  such 
delicious  moonlight  nights,  such  steady  and  invigorating 
breezes,  when  all  of  a  sudden,  we  were  becalmed,  and 
almost  within  hailing  distance  of  an  island,  known  on  the 
French  chart  as  u  Danger,"  on  the  English  as  "  Savage." 
In  the  chart  of  the  French  skipper  he  was  warned  not  to 
approach  too  near  the  island,  for  the  natives  were  not  only 
most  treacherous,  but  esteemed  to  be  the  most  savage  of  all 
the  group  of  islands  that  dot  the  waters  of  the  South  Pacific. 

At  early  dawn  I  noticed  our  captain  apparently  in  a 
very  nervous  state  walking  the  upper  deck,  looking  every 
now  and  then  very  uneasily  through  his  glass,  and  talking 
earnestly  with  the  mate. 

In  the  distance  land  was  plainly  to  be  seen,  and  num- 
bers of  black  objects  moving  upon  the  water.  In  due  time 
it  was  discovered  that  they  were  canoes  filled  with  natives ; 
nearer,  nearer,  nearer  they  approached,  when  in  due  time 
a  perfect  swarm  surrounded  our  vessel. 

When  I  came  on  deck  I  counted  one  hundred  and 
twenty  of  them. 

Such  a  sight  I  never  before  witnessed.      In   the  first 


Drifting  About.  261 

place  the  natives  were  the  handsomest  specimens  of  dark 
humanity  I  had  ever  seen.  Superb  figures,  very  handsome 
faces,  with  glossy  black  curly  hair,  entirely  naked,  save 
and  excepting  an  apron  of  seaweed  and  long  grass  extend- 
ing from  the  waist  to  the  knee. 

The  first  boatload  had  managed  to  scramble  upon  deck, 
gaining  which  the  foremost  seemed  instinctively  to  find 
out  the  captain,  and  instantly  prostrating  himself  upon  the 
deck,  kissed  both  of  his  feet;  the  rest,  some  twenty  or 
more,  were  busying  themselves  by  jabbering  with  the  pas- 
sengers, laying  hold  of  their  garments,  and  seeming  parti- 
cularly struck  with  the  bright  red  of  the  flannel  shirts, 
and  the  figured  cotton  dresses  of  some  of  the  women.  All 
this  time  the  boats  or  canoes  increasing  in  fearful  numbers 
were  surrounding  the  ship,  and  the  noise  and  hubbub  of 
the  savages,  the  cackling  of  geese,  the  cackling  of  cocks 
and  hens,  and  the  squealing  of  pigs,  added  greatly  to  the 
general  excitement. 

The  captain,  with  sword  in  one  hand  and  pistol  in  ano- 
ther, the  mate  being  similarly  armed,  by  signs  and  ges- 
tures refused  to  allow  any  more  to  come  on  board,  and 
endeavored — after  a  great  deal  of  trading  had  taken  place 
between  the  natives  and  the  passengers — to  clear  the  ship 
of  the  natives.  This  seemed  to  be  an  impossibility.  Now, 
it  appears,  that  among  the  crew  there  was  a  New  Zea- 
lander,  a  native  of  one  of  the  group  of  islands  near  Auck- 
land, who  had  been  very  busy  with  one  of  the  cannibals- 
there  being  quite  a  similarity  in  their  dialects,  and  we 
thereby  were  enabled  to  obtain  some  information  relative 
to  the  intentions  of  our  formidable  visitors— now  every 
moment  increasing  in  number  by  the  hundreds,  nay,  thou- 
sands ! 

A  dead  calm  prevailed.  Apart  from  the  evident  and 
increasing  anxiety  of  the  captain,  some  most  laughable 
and  amusing  scenes  were  occurring  upon  deck — a  native 
with  a  squeaking  young  porker  in  one  hand,  and  a  string 
of  cackling  geese  in  the  other,  would  lay  hold  of,  and  even 
pull  up,  the  dress  of  one  of  the  affrighted  steerage  passen- 
gers, and  shaking  the  young  swine  in  her  face,  intimate  by 
his  gestures  that  an  exchange  would  be  accepted;  rem- 
nants of  carpeting,  old  petticoats,  and  flannels,  were  eagerly 


262  Drifting  About. 

bartered  away  for  all  descriptions  of  live  stock  and  "yams," 
and  everything  so  far  had  gone  on  peaceably  enough. 

But  a  storm  was  brewing. 

I  had  managed  to  make  out — though  somewhat  unin- 
telligibly— that  but  one  vessel  had  ever  before  been  so  near 
this  island,  that  but  one  white  person  resided,  and  that  he 
was  a  Catholic  priest,  that  the  natives  were  extremely 
averse  to  the  whites,  and  were  excessively  treacherous. 

We  had  been  at  sea  some  forty  days,  and  the  tedious- 
ness  of  the  voyage  was  great,  and  consequently  the  chance 
of  a  run  on  shore,  and  a  sniff  of  the  land,  was  most  entic- 
ing. The  beautiful  island  with  its  countless  cocoanut  and 
banyan  trees  looked  most  inviting,  and  the  aroma  from  the 
spicy  groves  and  wild  foliage  of  the  trees  was  quite  too 
much  for  my  olfactories,'  and  wooed  me  by  its  grateful 
incense  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  solitary  and  priestly  occupant, 
and  my  respects  to  the  inhabitants  generally. 

Obtaining  the  captain's  consent,  he  first  charging  me  to 
return  as  speedily  as  possible,  I  left  the  vessel  with  the 
second  mate,  three  of  the  crew,  and  the  New  Zealander. 

I  had  provided  myself  with  a  very  rusty  formidable 
looking  (unloaded,  of  course)  French  horse  pistol,  and  an 
old  cutlass,  had  rolled  up  a  bundle  of  old  clothes,  flannels, 
&c,  and  strange  to  say,  I  had  with  me — thinking  it  might 
be  agreeable  to  the  isolated  stranger — a  file  of  "  New  York 
Heralds,"  and  of  the  "  Spirit  of  the  Times." 

Half  an  hour's  pulling  brought  us  to  the  beach,  and  the 
sight,  upon  gaining  terra  firma,  I  shall  never  forget.  The 
shore  for  miles  seemed  literally  covered  with  human  beings ; 
huts  in  countless  numbers,  and  of  all  sizes  and  shapes, 
poured  forth  their  teeming  inmates,  and  in  the  midst  of 
this  dense  throng,  stood  forth,  in  the  habiliments  of  the 
Holy  Church,  the  commanding  figure  and  pleasant  face  of 
"  Father  Grlencairn" — for  that  was  the  missionary's  name. 
For  over  seventeen  years  had  he  been  a  resident  of  this 
island,  and  from  the  time  of  his  arrival  to  the  day  of  the 
landing  of  our  boat's  crew  he  had  not  set  his  eye  upon  a 
white  man.  The  reader  can  imagine  the  interesting  nature 
of  our  interview. 

All  this  time  the  natives  appeared  perfectly  quiet  and 
docile,  and  I   was  not   only  struck  with   the  handsome 


Drifting  About.  263 

appearance  and  superb  figures  of  the  men,  but  perfectly 
captivated  with  the  almost  ravishing  beauty  of  the  women, 
of  a  dark  brown  complexion,  with  long  waving  and  raven 
black  hair  falling  to  the  waist  in  profusion,  over  superbly 
rounded  and  voluptuously  shaped  shoulders,  the  waist 
girdled  most  tastefully  with  a  sort  of  trellis-work  of  green 
leaves,  which  interwoven  with  some  aromatic  herbs,  sent 
forth  the  most  delicate  and  grateful  odors,  while  the  perfect 
symmetry  of  the  limbs,  the  small ness  and  beauty  of  the 
feet,  completed  not  only  a  model  of  a  figure,  but  such  a  one 
as  I  had  never  before  in  all  my  wanderings  gazed  upon. 

The  island  was  most  romantically  situated,  and  seem- 
ingly completely  covered  with  cocoanut  and  orange  trees, 
while  each  of  the  curiously  constructed  huts  or  "  grass 
houses "  was  covered  with  grape  vines,  loaded  with 
bunches  of  this  luscious  fruit. 

A  nod  from  Father  Glencairn,  and  we  proceeded  with 
one  of  the  chiefs  to  his  abode,  and  "  chapel." 


It  was  a  building,  if  it  can  be  dignified  by  that  name, 
of  "  adobe,"  a  sort  of  baked  mud,  and  the  largest  on  the 
island.  Inside  was  an  altarpiece  very  neatly  arranged, 
resting  upon  which  was  a  large  wooden  crucifix.  Some 
wild  flowers  and  a  few  ornaments  completed  the  furniture 
of  the  apartment. 

Myself  and  the  priest  were  chatting  very  pleasantly,  he 
having  greatly  interested  me  by  the  recital  of  many  start- 


264  Drifting  About. 

ling  and  curious  facts  connected  with  his  seventeen  years' 
exile,  when  he  remarked  to  me  that  the  handsome  "  chief" 
had  suddenly  disappeared,  adding,  that  he  didn't  like  the 
looks  of  it ;  that  though  apparently  he  seemed  safe  enough, 
and  well  liked  by  them,  they  were  treacherous  to  a  degree, 
hating  the  whites,  and  as  savage  as  demons ! 

Upon  my  noticing  the  shouting,  hooting,  and  hallooing 
of  the  natives  outside,  and  at  the  same  time  the  agitated 
countenance  of  Father  Grlencairn,  I  confess  I  felt  a  little 
"  shakey,"  and  regretted  ever  leaving  our  poor  ship  ! 

At  the  same  time  I  felt  I  had  exceeded,  by  several  hours, 
the  time  the  captain  had  told  me  to  be  absent ;  that  I  was 
at  least  a  couple  of  miles  from  the  shore ;  and  that  if  a 
breeze  sprang  up — such  was  the  fright  of  the  captain  of  being 
seized  by  the  savages — that  he  was  certain  to  put  to  sea. 

I  watched  with  the  most  painful  anxiety  the  countenance 
of  the  priest.  We  were  not  long  in  doubt  as  to  their  inten- 
tions. Beseeching  me  to  remain  perfectly  quiet,  and  not  to 
exhibit  the  slightest  trepidation,  he  told  me  to  hold  my  old 
horse-pistol  in  my  hand  (I  had  informed  him  that  it  was 
unloaded),  and  to  stand  by  the  altar  while  we  would  "  face 
the  music." 

With  a  yell,  that  seems  to  be  still  ringing  in  my  ears, 
they  rushed  in,  but  at  the  lifted  hand,  and  calm  and  dig- 
nified demeanor  of  the  priest,  they  stood  seemingly  abashed; 
in  that  terrible  interval  I  seemed  to  have  passed  a  whole 
lifetime.  Escape  seemed  impossible,  resistance  useless,  and 
I  felt  almost  certain  that  the  ship  had  departed. 

The  sight  of  those  magnificent-looking  savages,  with 
their  handsome  faces  and  superbly  proportioned  limbs, 
almost  bursting  with  frenzied  excitement,  and  carrying  in 
their  hands  their  wonderfully  carved  instruments  of  war- 
fare, can  never  be  erased  from  my  memory. 

There  they  stood,  while  the  priest  briefly  translated  to 
me  their  intentions,  still  charging  me  to  remain  where  I 
was,  and  to  try  and  appear  perfectly  indifferent. 

He  also  informed  me  that  they  told  him  the  ship  had  been 
taken  by  them,  and  that  it  was  useless  for  me  to  think  of  leav- 
ing ;  he  adding,  to  comfort  me,  that  he  didn't  believe  it. 

Six  of  the  chiefs  approached  nearer  to  .me,  each  having 
in  his  hand  a  lance  of  polished  cedar- wood,  when  suddenly 


Drifting  About.  265 

the  priest  rushed  in  front  of  them  to  the  altar,  and  seizing 
the  crucifix,  reverently  lifted  it  on  high,  and  falling  on  his 
knees,  directed  me  to  follow  his  example. 

At  this  exciting  moment — so  seemingly  were  they  under 
subjection — their  faces  not  only  assumed  their  natural 
expression,  but  with  bowed  heads  they  slowly  one  by  one 
left  the  apartment ;  and  of  the  hundreds  of  uproarious  voices 
that  a  few  moments  before  were  shouting  for  the  sacrifice, 
none  were  raised  above  a  whisper. 

I  certainly  breathed  freer,  but  the  danger,  my  kind  friend 
said,  was  not  yet  over.  We  must  hasten  to  the  beach,  for 
it  was  near  sunset ;  we  had  some  distance  to  go.  I  had  not 
seen  or  heard  of  our  boat's  crew  for  hours ;  and  though  for 
the  moment  the  natives  seemed  pacified,  they  were  not  to 
be  trusted,  and  there  was  no  time  for  trifling. 

Upon  coming  in  sight  of  the  ocean,  and  seeing  the  ship 
lying  quietly  where  in  the  morning  I  had  left  her,  I  will 
not  attempt  to  describe  my  sensations  of  joy.  Our  boat  and 
the  crew  were  all  safe  at  the  landing ;  a  very  light  breeze 
had  just  sprung  up,  and  the  yo-hoing  of  the  seamen,  so 
grateful  to  our  ears,  warned  us  quickly  to  be  on  board. 

I  hesitated  when  the  moment  came  for  me  to  bid  adieu 
to  my  kind  friend  and  preserver ;  and  as  he  pressed  his 
hand  in  mine,  and  gave  me  the  parting  benediction  of  his 
holy  church,  and  I  felt  that  in  this  round  world  of  ours  we 
should  not  meet  again,  I  found  it  difficult  to  repress  my 
emotion. 

I  could  not  resist  the  temptation,  at  parting  with  him,  of 
repeating  to  him  a  verse  from  Eobert  Burns,  that  struck 
me  as  strangely  appropriate ;  and  though  the  poet  inscribed 
his  verses  to  one  whose  head  was  circled  in  the  jewelled 
coronet  of  an  earldom,  it  seemed  to  me  that  a  halo  of  a 
richer  and  more  heavenly  lustre  rested  on  the  head  of  the 
reverend  father  I  was  leaving  now  for  ever  : — 

"  The  bridegroom  may  forget  the  bride 
Was  made  his  wedded  wife  yestreen ; 
The  monarch  may  forget  the  crown, 
That  on  his  head  an  hour  has  been ; 
The  mother  may  forget  the  child 
That  smiles  so  sweetly  on  her  knee, 
But  I'll  remember  thee,  Glencaim, 
And  all  that  thou  hast  done  for  me  1" 
12 


266  Drifting  About. 

LXXXIII. 

MELBOURNE. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  10,  at  half-past  two,  sighted  the  Mel- 
bourne Heads.  At  three  took  pilot  on  board— blowing  a 
perfect  gale  of  wind ;  anchored  in  Hobson's  Bay  about  six, 
and  shortly  afterwards  landed  at  Williamstown,  distant 
from  the  city  of  Melbourne  about  eight  miles. 

One  hour  more,  and  I,  by  the  aid  of  a  carefully  con- 
structed rail  car,  had  reached  the  town,  and  was  comfort- 
ably quartered  in  a  very  cozy  room  at  the  Prince  of  Wales 
Hotel. 

Melbourne  is  decidedly  a  handsome  city. 

I  was  struck  with  the  beauty  and  the  solidity  of  the 
buildings,  the  wide,  well  laid  out,  and  carefully  paved 
streets,  and  the  life,  bustle,  and  activity  of  everything 
and  everybody. 

Melbourne,  the  capital  of  Yictoria,  stands  on  what  they 
call  the  "  Yarra  Yarra,"  and  is  distant  from  Sydney  about 
six  hundred  miles.  The  city  is  built  on  rising  ground,  in 
a  fertile  and  beautiful  valley,  extending  for  some  miles 
along  the  banks  of  the  river — the  latter  yielding  a  goodly 
supply  of  fresh  water  to  the  inhabitants. 

The  population,  I  was  informed,  was  100,000. 

There  are  some  very  elegant  public  buildings,  very  cre- 
ditable to  the  community  which  has  sprung  up  with  such 
startling  rapidity. 

One  of  the  most  notable  structures  is  the  Queen's  Bridge, 
spanning  the  before  mentioned  Yarra  Yarra  river,  by  a 
single  arch  of  over  150  feet. 

This  beautiful  structure  cost  over  $75,000. 

St.  Peter's  and  St.  James's  are  the  most  costly  and  con- 
spicuous of  the  churches ;  and  the  Roman  Catholics  have  a 
very  superb  cathedral  called  St.  Francis  Xavier. 

Independents,  Baptists,  Wesleyans,  Presbyterians,  Jews, 
and  Quakers,  have  their  respective  places  of  worship. 

There  are  three  or  four  theatres,  the  Theatre  Royal 
being  the  largest. 


Drifting  About.  267 

The  city  is  built  of  brick  and  stone.  The  handsome 
granite  fronts  of  many  of  the  houses  would  be  considered 
an  ornament  in  London  or  Paris.  The  appearance  of 
the  city  from  the  river  is  most  striking  ;  the  extreme 
ends  rise  over  two  picturesque  eminences,  on  the  verge  of 
a  beautiful  park.  The  general  air  of  the  place  (with  the 
single  exception  of  Sydney)  is  more  thoroughly  English 
than  any  other  town  I  have  visited  in  Australia ;  and  the 
superbly  laid  out  grounds  and  beautiful  scenery  in  the  sub- 
urbs have  all  the  quiet,  subdued  interest  of  an  old  English 
domain. 

The  three  leading  journals  here  are  the  "  Argus," 
"  Herald,"  and  "  Age.v  A  "  Punch  "  also  flourishes,  very 
cleverly  edited.  Of  the  weeklies,  at  the  time  of  my  visit, 
the  "  Note  Book  "  was  the  most  important. 

The  government  of  Melbourne  is  vested  in  a  mayor,  four 
aldermen,  and  twelve  (so-called)  town  councillors. 

The  city  is  also  the  seat  of  a  bishopric. 

I  had  brought  with  me  from  California  letters  from  my 
old  associates  of  the  press  in  San  Francisco  to  the  Mel- 
bourne editors,  and  it  gives  me  much  pleasure,  at  this  great 
distance,  to  record  the  kind  and  genial  manner  with  which 
I  was  received  ;  and  also,  if  not  too  late,  to  thank  them  and 
the  public  generally  throughout  the  Colonies  for  their 
generous  reception  of  me. 

The  Melbourne  "  Argus  "  bears  the  same  resemblance 
in  that  community  to  the  "Times"  in  London;  and  it 
seems  to  be  a  pretty  well  understood  fact,  that  by  its  cen- 
sure or  praise  the  fate  of  a  public  performer  is  sealed. 

The  reader  will  presently  better  appreciate  this  remark. 

Among  those  who  greeted  me  on  my  arrival,  were  two 

Californians,  Frank  B ,  of  San  Francisco,  and  my  old 

banking  friend  Merrill,  of  "  Hensley  &  Merrill  "  memory, 
Sacramento. 

We  were  joined  by  George  Loder  (who  was,  at  this  time, 
conductor  of  Madame  Anna  Bishop's  concerts),  and  had  a 
"  good  time  "  generally. 

I  found,  however,  that  "Melbourne"  was  no  place  in 
which  to  be  idle.  Expenses  were  frightful,  and,  as  I  was 
not  altogether  on  a  tour  of  pleasure,  I  proceeded  as  quickly 
as  possible  to  business. 


268  Drifting  About. 

When  my  friend  Bennett  (who  was  most  serviceable  to 
me  in  arranging  the  plans  of  my  "  first  appearance  ")  saw 
the  "  programme  "  I  had  selected,  and  that  some  remi- 
niscences of  "  California  life  "  were  to  be  given,  he  desired 
me  to  send  him  twelve  guineas'  worth  of  tickets !  This,  I 
thought,  was  as  good  a  start  as  it  was  generous. 

The  "  posters "  were  upon  the  walls,  the  shops  and 
houses  were  strewed  with  programmes — the  papers  pro- 
perly attended  to — the  "  Hall  "  taken — the  "  Erard  "  (such 
a  beauty)  selected — the  ticket  "  taker  "  and  "  seller  " 
secured — the  "  free  list "  duly  cared  for — and  the  fatal 
moment  of  my  "  first  appearance  "  before  a  colonial  audi- 
tory had  arrived. 

Accordingly,  on  Monday  evening,  December  22,  1856, 
the  brightly  lighted  hall  of  the  "  Mechanics'  Institute  "  was 
filled  to  overflowing  with  (of  course)  a  fashionable,  and  (to 
me)  new  and  strange  audience,  although  it  slightly  rained. 

I  believe  it  is  proverbial  that  the  Americans  are  infinitely 
more  cordial  and  generous  in  their  welcome  to  a  stranger, 
I  mean,  of  course,  a  public  performer,  on  his  "  first  appear- 
ance," than  my  countrymen  are ;  but,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  English  are  less  fickle  and  more  lasting  in  their  attach- 
ment, providing,  of  course,  a  favorable  impression  is  made. 

As  a  gentleman  said  to  me  in  London :  "  Once  make  a 
1  hit '  here,  and  your  fortune  is  made."  But  the  great  dif- 
ficulty is  to  make  the  "  hit,"  for  out  of  the  hosts  of  enter- 
tainers that,  for  the  last  ten  years,  have  sought  to  win 
the  good  favor  of  John  Bull,  how  few  are  they  who 
have  been  pecuniarily  successful.  In  single-handed,  or 
Monologue  Entertainments,  I  suppose  the  late  Mr.  Albert 
Smith  and  Mr.  Henry  Kussell  take  the  foremost  rank. 

But  to  return  to  the  "  Mechanics'  Institute." 

The  audience  greeted  me  kindly,  though  cautiously — 
laughing  at  the  funny  parts,  and  crying  at  the  serious. 
But  it  was  not  until,  for  the  first  time,  I  had  given  my  ver- 
sion of  "  The  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade"  that  I  felt  I 
had  made  a  hit.  The  audience  rose  and  cheered,  the 
women  waved  their  handkerchiefs,  and  I  retired  behind  the 
little  red  screen,  exhausted,  excited,  and  thankful. 

Thus  endeth  my  first  night  in  Australia. 

The  next  day  all  the  papers  came  out  in  the  mosflauda- 


Drifting  About.  269 

tory  manner.      The   much  dreaded    "  Argus "   spoke  as 
follows : 

Mr.  Stephen  Massett  gave  an  entertainment  last  night  at 
the  Mechanics'  Institute,  and  the  attendance  was  more 
numerous,  and  comprised  a  larger  number  of  the  elite  of 
Melbourne  society  than  we  have  seen  assembled  within 
those  walls  upon  any  similar  occasion  for  some  time  past. 
A  more  clever,  versatile,  and  amusing  mimic,  vocalist,  and 
elocutionist  has  not  yet  visited  these  colonies.  Mr.  Mas- 
sett  sings  and  reads  with  equal  taste  and  feeling ;  his  comic 
readings  are  really  comic ;  and  he  can  be  pathetic  without 
verging  upon  the  limits  of  bathos.  He  succeeded  in  excit- 
ing and  retaining  the  attention  of  the  audience  for  two 
hours,  and  the  manifestations  were  frequent  and  hearty. 
His  comic  readings  from  "  The  Lady  of  Lyons,"  his  descrip- 
tion of  a  novice's  first  appearance  upon  the  stage  in  the 
character  of  Young  Norval,  were  the  most  successful  of  the 
humorous  portions  of  the  entertainment ;  and  Tennyson's 
"  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade,"  and  the  well-known  ballad, 
11  The  Lament  of  the  Irish  Emigrant,"  obtained  the  greater 
share  of  the  commendation  bestowed  upon  the  professedly 
serious  items  of  the  programme.  Altogether  the  entertain- 
ment was  as  agreeable  as  it  was  unexceptionable,  and  can 
scarcely  fail  to  become  very  popular  in  the  provinces. 

In  reference  to  the  "  Charge  of  the  Brigade,"  which,  I 
think,  I  was  the  first  in  1855  to  recite  in  public,  and  which 
is  now  so  frequently  introduced  by  various  self-styled 
"professors"  of  elocution,  the  "Herald"  said:  "His 
recitation  of  Tennyson's  'Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade' 
threw  the  audience  into  a  state  of  enthusiasm." 

The  "  Note  Book  "  said :  "  The  moving  elegy  that  Ten- 
nyson has  written  upon  the  brave  men  who  fell  in  the 
1  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade '  at  Balaklava,  he  chants, 
rather  than  reads,  with  an  enthusiasm,  a  fire,  a  fervor,  I 
might  say,  a  frenzy,  almost  beyond  mere  histrionic  dis- 
play." 

The  "  Age  "  remarked :  "  The  recitation  of  the  '  Charge' 
was  a  '  gem '  in  its  way.     He  has  a  distinct  and  correct 


2yo  Drifting  About. 

pronunciation,  a  judicious  regard  to  what  we  may  call  color- 
ing, and  appropriate  action." 

My  modesty  prevents  my  making  any  more  extracts — at 
any  rate,  at  present — and  I  accordingly  proceed  with  my 
adventures  in  and  out  of  the  "  diggings." 


;      LXXXIV. 

A  CHRISTMAS  DINNER  AT  THE   FRENCH  CONSUL'S. 

I  HAD  brought  from  M.  Dillon,  the  French  consul  at  San 
Francisco,  a  very  pleasant  letter  to  same  functionary  at 
Melbourne — the  "Count  Lionel  de  Moreton  Chabrillan," 
whom  I  found  a  most  delightful,  courteous,  and  hospitable 
gentleman. 

I  was  immediately  invited  to  his  house  at  "  St.  Kilda," 
distant  some  two  miles  from  Melbourne — and  received  a 
special  invitation  to  dine  with  him  on  Christmas  Day ! 

It  may  be  news  to  some  of  my  readers  in  these  Northern 
latitudes  to  know,  that  in  the  Antipodes,  this  celebrated 
day  occurs  in  the  height  of  summer  / — and  therefore,  they 
will  not  be  surprised  to  hear  that  I  left  my  hotel  in  full 
summer  regalia,  on  a  perfect  June  morning,  the  thick 
foliage  of  the  green  trees,  the  bright  sun,  and  the  wild 
flowers  out  in  all  their  glory,  being  my  companions — the 
only  drawback  in  my  pleasant  journey  being  the  intolera- 
ble dust  of  the  road. 

Arrived  at  the  "  Chateau  "  of  the  Count,  I  was  very 
cordially  received.  The  company  seated  in  bamboo  chairs 
under  the  veranda,  overlooking  the  beautiful  gardens  of 
the  host. 

In  compliment  to  two  or  three  Englishmen  who  were 
present,  a  splendid  sirloin  of  roast-beef,  with  pudding  to 
match — Yorkshire  and  plum — graced  the  banquet,  and 
when,  prior  to  being  seated,  the  butler  handed  to  each  of 
the  gentlemen  a  nice  cool  jaunty-looking  white  jacket — 
considering  it  was  Christmas  Day,  I  fancied  the  contrast 


Drifting  About.  271 

somewhat  singular  to  the  25th  of  December  of  former 
years. 

"  Punkas  "  were  going  overhead — the  waiters  stood  be- 
hind the  chairs,  keeping  the  flies  off,  with  fans  in  hand; 
the  open  windows  let  in  the  little  air  that  was  stirring, 
laden  with  the  odors  of  the  summer  flowers,  and  luscious 
fruit  trees!  Altogether,  this  was  the  most  remarkable 
"  Christmas  "  I  had  yet  passed. 

The  walls  of  the  city  were  covered  with  large  posters  of 
various  performers. 

I  found  that  Mrs.  C.  N.  Sinclair  and  Mr.  Henry  Sedley 
were  playing  a  successful  engagement — that  Madam  Anna 
Bishop  was  the  bright  particular  star  in  the  musical  firma- 
ment— that  Mr.  McKean  Buchanan  was  still  the  great 
American  tragedian,  and  that  the  Miss  Gougenheims  were 
the  "  most  fascinating  actresses"  of  the  day. 

I  shall  now  jot  down  from  my  diary,  brief  memoranda 
of  which  I  have  before  me — such  items  as  may  interest  the 
reader  during  my  six  months'  rambling  through  the 
colonies. 

January  29. — My  second  concert,  poured  with  rain  all 
day — £30  in  the  house — expenses  £25 — cleared  £5 — saw 
on  the  bills  at  the  Theatre  Koyal,  they  play  to-night,  "  All 
that  Glitters  isn't  Gold." 

Thought  of  the  appositeness  of  the  allusion  to  my  own 
case. 

Large  fire  in  Great  Bourke  street — crowd  collected  on 
the  following  day  looking  with  intense  astonishment  at 
what  was  called  a  "  Salamander  Safe,"  which  came  out  of 
the  furnace  unscathed. 

A  tall  raw-boned  Yankee  was  not  only  "  hollering  "  out 
the  following  extraordinary-  yarn  in  relation  to  his  "  Sala- 
mander Safes,"  of  which  he  was  the  agent — but  had  a  lot 
of  slips  printed,  and  having  it  now  before  me,  present  it  to 
the  reader. 

"  SALAMANDER  SAFES  V1 

I  sold  a  safe  to  a  big  firm  in  "  Saint  Louis," — the  house 
was  burnt  down  with  the  safe  in  it — said  safe  was  embedded 


272  Drifting  About. 

in  the  ruins  of  the  fire  seven  mortal  days,  exposed  to  the 
most  intensest  heat  that  was  ever  felt — a  feller  from  New 
York  wrote  out  to  inquire  how  it  performed,  on  being 
removed  from  the  ruins — and  the  man  replied  by  mail  on 
the  following  day,  that  the  evening  previously  to  the  fire, 
the  head  book-keeper  had  been  to  the  market  to  purchase 
a  Shanghai  cock,  and  had  put  it  in  the  safe  for  safe  keep- 
ing— intending  fully  to  take  it  out  the  next  day — on 
removing  it  from  the  fire  seven  days  after  he  found  the 

COCK  FROZEN  TO  DEATH  ! 

The  agent  managed  to  sell  every  safe  he  had  in  the 
colonies. 


LXXXV. 

RAMBLES  THROUGH  THE   COLCNIES. 

Went  to  a  "  levee"  at  Government  House  with  the 
Count  Chabrillan,  Sir  Henry  Barclay,  and  Lady  Barclay, 
officiating — some  of  the  scenes  very  funny — in  the  scram- 
bling, jolting,  and  pushing,  the  ex-asperate-ioii,  and  the  drop- 
ping of  the  "H's"  were  quite  prominent,  such  as,  make 
room  'ere,  make  room,  you're  smashing  my  'at,  get  horf  my 
toes,  will  yer?  I  carn't  get  hin,  which  is  the  way?  Hin 
'ere,  his  that  Sir  Enry  ?  and  the  likes. 

January  7. — Start  for  Geelong,  called,  I  believe,  the 
11  second  town"  in  the  colony,  about  forty -five  miles  from 
Melbourne — it  seemed  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  a  large 
portion  of  the  wool  of  the  colony  is  from  this  point  ship- 
ped. 

The  hot  winds  that  obtain  here,  are  most  disagreeable ; 
I  was  treated  to  several  "  puffs"  upon  my  arrival,  as  I  was 
wending  my  way  to  the  newspaper  offices ;  the  dust  and 
heat  intolerable. 

Met  Mr.  Henry  Coleman,  who  was  giving  his  clever 
entertainment  at  the  theatre  called  "  Masks  and  Faces" — en- 
gaged the  "  Town-hall"  for  Monday  night,  paid  therefor 
£10. 

The  night  having  duly  arrived,  the  rain  as  usual  came 


Drifting  About.  273 

down  in  torrents,  the  entertainment  went  off  well,  except- 
ing the  unpleasant  reverberation  of  sound  owing  to  the 
faulty  architecture  of  the  hall,  and  the  "  sparseness"  of  the 
audience — the  "  Advertiser"  on  the  following  day  came  out 
in  a  very  complimentary  article,  stating  that  the  audience 
was  very  select  (very)  including  "  his  worship"  the  Mayor, 
many  qf  the  merchants,  bankers,  and  professional  men  of 
the  town. 

The  effect  was  very  funny,  in  my  recitation  of  the  "  Song 
of  a  Shirt." 

It  was  something  like  this : 


With  fingers  weary  and  worn — (echo)  . 

.    worn. 

With  eyelids  heavy  and  red 

.     red. 

A  woman  sat  in  unwomanly  rags  . 

.     gags. 

Plying  her  needle  and  thread 

.    dead. 

Stitch,  stitch,  stitch 

.     ditch. 

In  poverty,  hunger,  and  dirt 

.     hurt. 

And  still  with  a  voice  of  dolorous  pitch 

.     stitch 

She  sang  the  Song  of  a  Shirt 

.     dirt ! 

And  so  on. 

As  I  am  going  occasionally  to  initiate  my  readers  into 
some  of  the  mysteries  of  my  individual  professional  doings, 
not  only  for  their  amusement  and  information,  but  for  my 
own  gratification,  I  shall  commence  by  stating  that  my 
expenses  here  were  about  £20,  and  my  receipts  exactly 
£11. 

The  reader  will  therefore  perceive  that  I  was  about  £9 
out  of  pocket — so  I  thought  I'd  ge-long  somewhere  else  ! — 
Accordingly,  the  next  day  I  started  for  Ballarat,  which  is, 
I  believe,  the  largest  mining  locality  in  the  colonies. 

I  left  Geelong  by  the  morning  coach  at  five  o'clock,  reach- 
ing Ballarat  about  four  in  the  afternoon. 

The  style  of  vehicle  in  which  I  took  my  seat,  and  which 
is,  with  one  exception,  invariably  used  to  convey  passen- 
gers by  land  in  Australia,  is  what  they  call  the  "  American 
Concord  Coach." 

This  line  was  established  by  Mr.  Cobb  of  Boston,  in 
1853,  is  now  owned  bv  Americans,  and  the  ribbons  are 
always  in  the  hands  of  Yankee  drivers.  The  roads  were 
execrable,  in  winter  almost  impassable  owing  to  the  heavy 

32* 


274 


Drifting  About. 


rains;  and  intolerable  in  the  summer  from  the  frightful 
amount  of  heat,  dust,  and  hot  winds,  the  latter  peculiarly 
indigenous  to  this  country. 

Jolted  to  pieces,  fagged  out,  dusty  and  dirty,  I  arrived 
at  my  destination. 

My  countenance  was  just  the  reverse  of  that  of  this 
pleasant-looking  gentleman,  who  was  described  on  p.  272, 
but  who  is  put  in  here  by  way  of  contrast  to  the  picture 
the  reader  may  have  formed  of  me. 


The  town  appeared  to  me  to  be  composed  of  one  street, 
about  three  miles  in  length,  flanked  on  either  side  and  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach  by  an  immense  extent  of  country 
covered  with  innumerable  tents,  their  white  tops  glittering 
in  the  sun-light,  presenting  a  vast  panorama,  looking  more 
like  a  large  battle-field  than  a  mining  region — for  to  give 
the  reader  an  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  diggings  here,  I 
will  first  mention  that  the  population  in  and  about  Ballarat 
is  estimated  at  over  100,000  souls  ! 

The  ground  over  which  our  Jebu  was  galloping,  at  the 
rate  of  twelve  miles  an  hour,  seemed  composed  of  a  white 
chalky  substance,  some  two  or  three  inches  thick,  the  team 
and  wind  together  raising  such  a  dust,  as  would  every 
now  and  then  envelop  us  in  a  thick  fog. 

On  either  side  of  the  street  were  one  story  frame-houses, 


Drifting  About.  275 

tents,  etc.,  while  further  in  the  town  were  several  large 
shops,  and  a  few  buildings  of  brick  and  stone. 

They  publish  here  three  daily  newspapers ;  hotels  (such 
as  they  are)  are  very  abundant.  They  have,  I  believe,  one 
church  and  three  theatres,  rejoicing  in  the  names  of  the 
Montezuma,  Charley  Napier,  and  Victoria. 

Large  transparencies  were  suspended  from  the  front  win- 
dows of  each  :  One  announcing  that  the  "  Great  American 
Tragedian,  Mr.  McKean  Buchanan,  would  that  night 
appear  in  his  celebrated  character  of  Hamlet ;"  the  other, 
that  the  world-renowned  Pablo  Fauque  would  perform  his 
daring  feats  upon  the  tight-rope ;  and  the  other,  that  the 
most  perfect  and  faultless  representation  of  the  play  of  the 
Lady  of  Lyons  would  that  night  be  given.  The  Claude  by 
a  pupil  of  Mr.  Charles  Kean,  and  the  Pauline  by  a  relation 
of  Mrs.  Siddons. 

I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  visiting  the  last-men- 
tioned place,  and  upon  the  application  of  any  of  my  read- 
ers to  me  personally  will  give  them  an  imitation,  finding  it 
impossible  to  do  so  on  paper ! 

On  the  next  day  I  was  engaged  by  a  man  to  go  to  a  little 
place  called  Creswick  Creek,  he  offering  me  £10  and  my 
expenses. 

I  acquiesced ;  and,  after  he  had  paid  me  the  money,  got 
the  bills  and  posters  out,  it  immediately  commenced  to  rain. 

Arrived  at  Creswick  Creek — went  to  the  hotel,  made 
of  canvas,  with  a  theatre  complete  inside  of  it. 

I  forgot  to  inform  the  reader  that  my  melodeon  accom- 
panied me  to  Australia,  thinking  not  only  that  it  would  be 
convenient  in  the  "  diggings,"  where  pianos  were  difficult 
to  get,  but  that  I  might  sell  it  at  an  advance. 

The  "  box  of  music  "  I  carried  to  Creswick. 

The  house  was  about  half  full — the  rain  and  cold  intense 
—-the  roof  leaking  in  all  directions,  and  the  gloom  and 
desolation,  not  only  of  the  surroundings,  but  depicted  on 
the  countenances  of  my  auditory,  were  something  fearful  to 
contemplate ;  and  when  in  answer  to  a  very  civilly  put 
question  to  my  landlord  (who  had  engaged  me  as  a  great 
card)  as  to  whether  it  was  best  to  begin,  he  replied,  in  a 
very  unpleasant  manner,  "  Ow  the  L  should  I  know,"  it 
was  not  calculated  to  put  me  into  a  very  good  humor. 


276  Drifting  About. 

From  my  bed-room  to  the  theatre  it  was  a  pool  of  water, 
and  I  had  to  roll  up  my  trowsers  to  prevent  them  getting 
wet. 

The  melodeon  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  stage, 
which  was  quite  damp  and  unpleasant. 

I  had  got  as  far  as  the  reading  of  the  "  Song  of  the  Shirt," 
about  the  third  thing  on  the  bill,  when  I  found  three  of  my 
audience  asleep  and  half  of  them  with  umbrellas  up.  About 
this  time  I  felt,  as  I  stood  there  reading  and  trying  to  keep 
my  face  straight,  the  rain  coming  down  drop,  drop,  drop, 
on  the  end  of  my  nose.  I  moved  farther  up  the  stage ;  still 
I  felt  it  on  the  top  of  my  head.  I  then,  apologizing  to  my 
audience,  asked  their  kind  permission  to  get  under  cover, 
and  finished  the  reading  holding  in  one  hand  a  large  Chi- 
nese umbrella ! 

I  was  not  invited  to  repeat  the  performance  at  Creswick 
Creek. 

Keturning  to  Ballarat,  put  up  at  Golden  Fleece  hotel ; 
the  weather  intensely  cold,  though  in  the  middle  of  sum- 
mer. 

On  23d  of  January,  start  for  Maryboro,  a  mining  town  of 
considerable  importance. 

Maryboro  a  city  of  " tents" — heat  intense  (no  joke 
meant) — dust  and  fleas  perfectly  fearful. 

Put  up  at  the  Golden  Hotel. 

The  theatre,  as  usual,  in  the  big  room  of  the  hotel — cot- 
ton walls — hard  benches — stifling  heat,  and  delighted 
audiences. 

Paid  £2  for  100  small  posters.  Eeceipts  about  £10; 
expenses  £20  ;  'profits  in  proportion. 

January  28,  at  Dunolly,  another  "  mining "  locality ; 
stopped  at  the  Golden  Age  Hotel,  inside  of  which  was 
the  Royal  Victoria  Theatre. 

The  poster  which  announced  to  the  distinguished  citizens 
that  a  "  Grand  Ballad  Concert  and  Eeadings  "  was  to  be 
given  at  the  above  establishment,  looked  more  like  a  Day 
&  Martin's  blacking  placard  than  anything  else,  and  my 
audience  resembled  more  a  gathering  of  persons  to  witness 
an  execution,  than  one  to  be  delighted  by  any  elocutionary 
or  vocal  effort. 

The  night    before   the  concert,   a    funny    incident  oc- 


Drifting  About.  277 

curred  to  me  at  the  hotel,  which  I  shall  try  briefly  to  de- 
scribe. 

But  first  it  will  be  necessary,  for  the  reader  more  fully 
to  appreciate  the  joke,  to  be  informed  that,  for  the  last 
eighteen  years  of  my  life,  bathing  in  cold  water  has  been 
with  me  a  daily  habit.  Now  when  I  say  "  bathing,"  T 
mean  that  my  body,  from  head  to  foot,  is  immersed  in  cold 
water ;  and  it  is  as  much  a  necessity  with  me  as  eating  and 
drinking. 

I  intend  prefacing  this  little  anecdote  with  a  few  words 
upon  the  subject  of  bathing. 

From  a  young  medical  friend  of  mine,  I  have  ascertained 
the  fact  that  the  pores  of  the  skin,  by  which  the  perspira- 
tion escapes,  or  ought  to  escape,  are  so  numerous  that  a 
grain  of  sand,  placed  on  any  part  of  the  skin,  covers  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  thousand  of  these  fine  apertures.  The 
effect  on  the  system  when  these  are  clogged  up  by  neglect 
of  ablution,  may  easily  be  imagined. 

The  devotion  of  a  few  minutes  only  to  either  immersing 
the  body  in  cold  water,  or  resorting  to  the  more  easy  appli- 
cation of  the  sponge,  is  well  repaid  by  the  healthy  glow  and 
general  lightness  of  the  system  throughout  the  ensuing  day  ; 
and  when  it  is  added,  that  no  medicine  hitherto  discovered 
confers  good  health  and  long  life  with  so  much  certainty  as 
uniform  bathing  and  regular  exercise,  surely,  those  who 
do  not  comply  with  these  easy  conditions  have  no  right  to 
complain  of  being  deprived  of  such  inestimable  blessings. 

Those  who  cannot  procure  the  luxury  of  a  regular  bath, 
may,  at  all  events,  procure  a  large  earthenware-pan,  which 
will  prove  always  serviceable  as  a  foot  bath.  This  should 
be  filled  with  fresh  water  every  morning,  and  after  rising 
the  bather  should  saturate  a  towel  in  the  cold  fluid,  place 
it  round  the  head,  so  as  to  prevent  any  reaction  upwards, 
and  stand,  if  the  ablutor  cannot  sit,  in  the  pan  itself. 
With  a  sponge  the  bather  may  now,  after  removing  the 
wet  towel,  enjoy  a  "shower-bath"  in  miniature,  alternately 
soaking  the  sponge  and  squeezing  it  above  the  head  for 
several  minutes. 

The  body  may  be  afterwards  sponged  all  over,  and  then 
rubbed  entirely  dry  with  coarse  towelling. 

Horsehair    gloves    and  belts,  to  promote  activity  by 


278  Drifting  About. 

rapid  friction,  may  be  used  with  considerable  advantage, 
and  the  bather  should  then  dress  as  speedily  as  possible. 

This  plan  should  be  pursued  summer  and  winter — every 
morning — through  every  change  of  the  seasons — and  what- 
ever may  be  the  temperature,  the  bather  may  almost  defy 
"colds,"  " sorethroats,"  and  "influenza,"  throughout  the 
year. 

So  much  for  "  bathing,"  now  for  my  anecdote. 

I  had  managed — by  dint  of  giving  half-a-crown  to 
"  Biddy"  the  chambermaid — to  secure  a  bucket  of  water 
for  my  morning's  sousing,  and  had  retired  for  the  night 
closing  the  door  of  my  primitive  apartment  with  a  latch 
made  of  leather,  and  watching  with  great  attention  the 
doings  of  a  couple  of  rats,  one  of  which  was  nibbling  at 
some  grass  that  was  growing  underneath  my  wooden  cot, 
and  the  other  in  the  act  of  carrying  off  one  of  my  socks. 
A  tap  came  to  the  door,  and  "  Biddy"  appeared  with  a  big 
iron  pot  full  of  water,  stating  that  there  were  no  pails, 
buckets,  or  tubs  in  the  house,  and  that  this  was  the  only 
"  thing"  she  could  lay  her  hands  on. 

In  the  morning  I  was  awakened  at  an  early  hour  by  a 
loud  knocking  at  the  door,  and  by  any  number  of  voices, 
singing  out  for  "Biddy,"  "Biddy." 

I  listened,  and  heard  a  man's  voice  call  out  "  the  Iron 
pot's  gone,"  "  Biddy,  some  one's  stole  the  potato  pot." 

"Lor 'a  mercy," cried  Biddy,  "I  gave  it  the  gentleman  in 
No.  18  to  wash  in" — and  with  that  piece  of  information,  I 
jumped  out  of  bed  and  ducked  my  head  in  the  pot,  and 
sponging  myself  to  my  heart's  content,  regardless  of  the 
streams  of  water  that  completely  covered  the  floor,  and 
the  screams  of  an  old  covey  in  the  room  underneath  me, 
upon  whose  bald  head  the  water  was  rushing  with  "  Niagara" 
swiftness. 

Knock — knock — knock  at  the  door.  "  If  you  please,  sir, 
Biddy  has  given  you  the  pot  in  mistake,  and  we've  got 
nothing  to  boil  the  potatoes  in,  sir,  for  breakfast !" 

But  the  row  in  the  old  gentleman's  room  beggars  descrip- 
tion. 

Now  the  reader  must  understand,  that  the  floor  was  only 
an  inch  thick,  and  full  of  gaping  seams  and  holes,  and  my 
temporary  bathing-potato-pot-tub  must  have    been  imme- 


Drifting  About. 


279 


diately  over  his  head — for  with  my  plunge  he  sprang  up, 
hollering  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 

"  Murder,  thieves,  fire,  water,  police !"  while  the  pool 
I  made  by  my  sudden  dive,  not  only  wet  everything  in  the 
room,  but  nearly  drowned  the  old  gentleman. 

The  man  came  in  and  got  his  potato  pot — the  old  gentle- 
man dried  himself — all.  the  boarders  enjoyed  the  joke,  if 
they  didn't  the  potatoes,  and  I  the  pot-pour-i,  although  the 
old  cock  it  is  supposed  put  a  toe  down  against  such  prac- 
tices. 

At  Dunolly,  I  met  some  very  jolly  and  gentlemanly 
fellows ;  among  those  who  were  particularly  civil,  hospi- 
table, and  attentive,  were  Captain  Virginius  Murray,  Mr. 
Farquhar,  and  Dr.  Cordellis,  whom  I  met  at  the  house  of 
Mr.  John  Kerr,  whither  I  had  taken  shelter,  during  a 
tremendous  hail  and  rain  storm — the  hail  bigger  than  a 
pigeon's  egg,  and  I  having  to  find  my  way  home  to  the 
"  Golden  Age  Hotel"  by  the  aid  of  a  lantern. 

Fortunately  I  did  not  then  wear  the  large  hat  which, 
according  to  the  old  lady  on  page  185,  is  distinctive  of 
Americans,  or  I  should  have  been  either  unroofed  or  car- 
ried away. 


280  Drifting  About. 


LXXXVI. 

HOW  I  GOT  TO   MY  HOTEL. 

Now  I  had  in  California  seen  some  pretty  bad  and  im- 
passable roads — and  streets — streets  knee  deep  in  mud, 
slush,  and  filth,  but  the  midnight  walk,  aided  very  feebly 
by  a  shocking  bad  and  rickety  lantern,  from  the  head- 
quarters of  Captain  Virginius  Murray  to  the  palatial  resi- 
dence of  the  subscriber,  baffles  description. 

There  were  (of  course)  no  lamp-posts,  no  sidewalks,  no 
roads,  no  lights,  (excepting  now  and  then  the  indistinct 
flickering  of  a  farthing  rushlight  from  the  tent  of  an 
"  honest  miner") — no  anything — all  gloom,  darkness,  rain, 
and  mud. 

I  was  told  to  "  keep  to  the  right,"  "  go  straight  ahead," 
and  I  should  soon  find  the  Hotel — and  how  soon  I  found 
the  Hotel,  the  reader  shall  presently  be  informed. 

I  think  I  had  proceeded  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the 

"  Headquarters"  of  Captain  V.  M ,  the  wind  and  rain 

beating  in  my  face,  and  making  several  ineffectual  attempts 
to  "  put  out  the  light"  by  rattling  up  against  the  horned 
window  of  my  little  lantern ;  my  legs  encased  in  a  pair  of 
"  top  boots"  that  reached  to  my  middle,  and  would  have 
been  considered  by  Mr.  "  Vanderdecker"  in  the  "  Flying 
Dutchman,"  a  first  rate  "property" — had  become  already 
quite  used  to  disappearing  every  now  and  then  in  a  large 
mud-hole,  and  I  with  the  greatest  difficulty  had  managed  to 
grope  my  way  thus  far,  by  the  aid  of  my  dim  candle,  that 
kept  giving  unmistakable  signs  of  sputtering  out,  like  the 
speech  of  a  drunken  politician,  and  ending  in  total  dark- 
ness, which  such  oratory  usually  produces ;  when  suddenly 
I  had  a  sensation  such  as  I  presume  would  be  produced  by 
the  combined  action  of  an  earthquake  and  a  volcanic 
eruption,  and  when  my  senses  gained  something  like  their 
natural  condition,  I  found  myself  reduced  to  a  somewhat 
globular  form  ;  having  totally  disappeared  from  the  surface 
of  this  earth,  my  faithless  light  being  extinguished  in  my 
lantern,  as  effectually  as  I  was  extinguished  from  society, 


Drifting  About.  281 

and  the  view  (not  very  distinct  either)  of  the  surrounding 
country  generally. 

After  picking  myself  up,  shaking  myself,  and  wiping 
the  mud  from  my  eyes,  and  looking  in  vain  for  help  or 
succor,  I  think  I  stood  still  for  several  minutes,  to  "  take 
stock."  To  return  was  impossible — to  proceed  was  about 
as  bad,  and  to  remain  motionless  was  very  uncomfortable. 

We  have  all  read  of  "  total  darkness,"  but  I  think  it 
was  never  before  by  me,  at  least,  so  fully  appreciated ;  but 
on  I  went — whither  I  knew  not — and  feeling  at  every  step, 
the  moral  certainty  of  my  again  disappearing  entirely  from 
the  naked  eye  at  any  moment — nor  did  I  long  remain  in  doubt 
— for  first  slightly  relieving  the  monotony  of  my  former 
gymnastycal  feat,  by  bumping  up  against  the  stump  of  a  big 
tree,  the  concussion  being  so  great,  I  was  pitched  "  neck  and 
crop"  into  a  pool  of  water,  my  favorite  element,  and  pre- 
senting by  this  time  an  hydraulic  phenomenon  rarely 
witnessed  in  that  or  any  other  country. 

How  I  got  out  I  know  not — where  I  was  I  could  not 
then,  nor  have  I  ever  since  ascertained — and  my  arriving 
at  my  Hotel  has  always  remained  a  mystery  to  me. 

It,  however,  taught  me  a  lesson — and  that  was — never 
again  to  trust  myself  out  after  dark  in  an  "  undiscovered 
country"  visiting  the  "  headquarters"  of  anybody,  at  the 
risk  of  not  only  deluging  my  "  hind-quarters,"  but  of  sub- 
jecting me  to  a  practical  illustration  of  the  poet's  simile, 
about  the  traveller  never  returning  from  that  bourne  I 


LXXXVIL 

ON  THE  WING. 

My  visit  to  the  diggings,  and  indeed  through  the  colonies 
generally,  was  of  such  an  ephemeral  and  will-o'-the-wisp 
character  as  to  preclude  the  possibility,  even  if  I  had  the 
intention,  of  entering  more  into  detail  than  I  have  done,  in 
reference  to  localities  or  individual  occurrences.  I  shall 
endeavor  to  jot  down,  as  they  flash  upon  my  memory,  a 


282  Drifting  About. 

few  of  the  most  prominent  incidents  of  adventure,  and  some 
exciting  scenes,  slightly  assisted  by  very  meagre  and  desul- 
tory notes  and  memoranda,  which,  with  the  reader's  per- 
mission, I  will  transcribe  from  a  book  of  items  made  at  the 
time. 

January  28. — Last  Concert  at  Dunolly — pouring  rain — 
crowded  house — heat  fearful — gentlemen  of  the  camp  wished 
a  repetition — the  "  Charge  of  the  Brigade"  created  the 
greatest  excitement.  Paid  £2  for  the  use  of  a  piano  with 
only  two  legs,  no  pedal,  and  missing  keys.  Eain  again 
coming  on  the  audience  and  the  performer. 

February  2. — Went  in  a  dog  cart  (so  called)  to  Bendigo, 
a  celebrated  mining  locality.  Put  up  at  the  Shamroek 
Hotel.  The  city  (?)  reminding  me  greatly  of  similar  locali- 
ties in  California,  with  this  exception — that  throughout 
Australia  I  have  noticed  a  much  greater  regard  evinced  for 
durability  in  the  erection  and  structure  of  their  public  and 
private  buildings ;  their  motto  evidently  being,  "  Not  for  a 
day,  but  for  all  time." 

Public  entertainments  here  were  in  a  very  rude  condition 
about  this  time ;  the  principal  and  decidedly  most  popular 
being  the  Drinking  and  Concert  Saloons. 

I  shall  endeavor  to  give  a  brief  description  of  what  I  saw 
at  one  of  them. 


LXXXVIII. 

CONCERT  SALOONS. 

The  Concert  Hall  of  the  Shamrock  Hotel,  then,  was 
about  75  feet  long  by  50  wide.  At  the  end  was  a  stage, 
or  raised  platform,  for  the  performer,  upon  which  was  one 
of  Erard's  grand  pianos ;  the  floor  was  covered  with  wood- 
en benches,  with  troughs  in  front,  upon  which  to  place  the 
pot  of  ale  or  "  harf  and  harf  "  of  the  occupier  of  the  seat. 

There  was  no  pay  exacted  for  entrance ;  the  proprietor 
depending  for  his  profits  upon  the  amount  of  liquor  and 
cigars  consumed  by  the  audience. 

The  receipts  were  immense,  as  were  also  the  salaries  paid 


Drifting  About.  283 

to  the  performers.  For  instance,  the  conductor,  Mr.  Lavenu, 
one  of  the  most  talented  composers  of  the  day,  received  £30, 
or  $150  a  week,  while  the  leading  lady  vocalist  got  £50. 

The  scene,  when  the  hall  was  full,  was  intensely  amusing 
and  disgusting.  The  jingling  of  glasses  and  clattering  of 
pots,  thte  dense  clouds  of  smoke  from  the  fumes  of  tobacco 
and  cigars,  and  not  of  the  choicest  brands  at  that,  mixed 
with  some  of  the  richest  colonial  Billingsgate  that  ever  came 
from  the  mouth  of  a  costermonger,  rendered  this  resort  par- 
ticularly attractive  to  the  refined,  the  philosophical,  or  intel- 
lectual listener. 

But  with  the  exception  of  the  Theatre,  open  only  now 
and  then,  there  was  no  other  place  of  amusement,  no  other 
method  of  passing  away  an  evening. 

The  receipts  were  frequently  £200  and  £300  anight; 
and  the  consequence  was,  the  proprietors  (two  Irishmen) 
were  making,  when  I  left,  a  rapid  fortune. 


LXXXIX. 

MY  CONCERT  IN  BENDIGO. 

The  Criterion  was  the  name  of  the  theatre  at  which  I 
"opened"  at  the  above  place,  and  for  which  they  charged 
me  £20  rent  per  night — rayther  steep,  I  thought,  for  a  quiet 
individuals  performance. 

The  town  was  billed  and  programmed  to  any  extent,  and 
posters,  black  and  blue  and  (supposed  to  be)  re(a)d  all  over, 
covered  the  walls  of  the  city  and  adjacent  townships. 

The  heat  was  very  great,  almost  suffocating;  and  the 
clouds  threatened  rain ;  added  to  which,  it  was  the  night  of 
the  first  appearance  of  a  celebrity  in  the  female  singing  line 
at  one  of  the  saloons ;  and  I  did  not  feel  particularly  bril- 
liant about  the  result  of  my  "  show." 

The  theatre  had  been  originally  built,  at  a  cost  of  $30,000, 
by  an  American,  named  Mr,  Henry  Clarkson,  of  whom  I 
have  to  speak  hereafter,  and  had  been  opened  by  Madame 
Lola  Montez,  and  where  she  played  a  series  of  brilliant  en- 


284  Drifting  About. 

gagements ;  but  the  building  was  out  of  the  way,  and  had 
proved,  both  to  owner  and  stockholders,  a  sorry  speculation. 

The  scenery  and  stage  appointments  were  fast  running 
to  decay,  as  were  also  numbers  of  rats,  who  swarmed  the 
building  upon  my  entrance,  early  in  the  evening,  to  see  if 
the  room  scene  was  set,  the  piano  there,  and  the  reading 
desk  in  its  proper  place. 

The  scene-shifter  and  the  carpenter  had  been  taking  their 
evening  meal  on  the  stage  aforesaid,  and  the  remains,  con- 
sisting of  some  choice  scraps  of  red  herring  and  bread  and 
cheese,  were  being  devoured  by  some  of  the  largest  black 
rats  I  had  ever  seen. 

Upon  my  approach  they  skedaddled,  and  I  took  my  coat 
off,  then  a  seat,  to  try  and  get  cool ;  for  the  perspiration 
was  pouring  from  me  in  streams,  and  I  was  wondering  how 
I  should  possibly  get  through  the  fatigues  of  the  evening. 

A  wonderful  place  for  reflection  is  the  inside  of  a  theatre 
in  the  daytime  ;  and  for  a  few  moments  I  gave  the  rein  to 
my  fancy,  and  "  let  fall  the  windows  of  my  eyes"  in  sleep. 

It  is  all  very  fine  to  talk  about  the  "  annihilation  of 
space,"  as  seen  in  the  operations  of  the  telegraph  or  the  lo- 
comotive ;  but  they  shrink  into  insignificance,  when  com- 
pared with  the  speed  of  a  run  in  Dreamland ! 

Whew  !  In  less  than  five  minutes  I  was  sitting  in  the 
Old  Park  Pit  of  New  York,  listening  to  the  strains  of  the 
opera  of  the  Bohemian  Girl, — while  the  poet  Milton  (such 
funny  things  occur  in  dreams)  was  to  play  Tom  Tug  in  the 
Waterman. 

Milton  had  just  been  encored  in  the  "Bay  of  Biscay," 
when  I  was  immediately  transferred  to  a  private  box  at 
Drury  Lane,  where  Ned  Davenport  was  playing  William 
in  Black  Eyed  Susan  to  T.  P.  Cooke's  Hamlet. 

I  was  just  about  going  behind  the  scenes,  to  shake  my 
friend  Ned  by  the  hands,  and  to  inquire  the  cause  of  the 
strange  amalgamation,  at  the  same  time  congratulating  him 
upon  his  success  in  introducing,  for  the  first  time,  a  sailor's 
hornpipe  in  the  graveyard  and  the  ghost  scene — when — oh 
horror!  I  saw,  underlined  on  the  big  poster,  in  front  of 
Drury  Lane,  that  I  was  announced  to  play  Eichard  the 
Third  to  Charlotte  Cushman's  Mrs.  Haller,  at  the  Honolulu 
Thftfttf^Sanxlwich  Islands,  on  the  following  night. 

^     OF  THE         ^^\ 

UNtVERSiTY    )| 


Drifting  About.  285 

I  had  just  packed  up  my  trunk,  and  arrived  at  a  hotel, 
situated  on  the  back  of  a  large  whale,  in  the  middle  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  when  I  was  informed  by  the  stage  manager, 
Captain  Cook,  that  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spurgeon  would  preach 
in  Park  Lane  Chapel  every  Sunday,  until  further  notice, 
morning  and  evening ;  and  that  if  I  would  adjourn  to  his 
house  he  would  regale  me  with  a  nice  slice  from  the  cold 
shoulder  of  a  departed  missionary ! 

I  was  wondering  whether  the  delicate  morsel  was  roasted 
or  boiled,  when  I  was  aroused  from  my  reverie  by  a  shak- 
ing of  the  arm,  and  seeming  to  fall  from  the  top  of  a  six- 
story  house  to  the  street,  without  hurting  myself— a  feat 
never  failing  to  be  accomplished  with  great  success  in  sleep 
— I  found  myself,  with  the  house  half-filled  with  people, 
sitting  in  the  middle  of  the  stage,  and  expected  to  com- 
mence my  performance. 

There  was  no  "  backing  out"  now  ;  and  making  my  way 
off  as  quickly  as  possible,  I  inquired  the  reason  of  the 
man's  not  waking  me  before. 

Seeing  the  fellow  turn  his  back  upon  me,  and  walk 
away,  I  questioned  him  again,  and  angrily  asked  him  why 
he  had  not  fixed  the  stage  earlier  ?  he  made  no  reply ;  but 
another  man  began  talking  with  his  fingers,  and  motioning 
me  to  come  along  with  him.  I  now  began  to  think  that  my 
assistants  were  either  drunk  or  mad ;  and  in  my  despair — 
for  there  was  no  time  to  be  lost — I  ran  to  my  hotel,  made 
a  hasty  toilet,  and  in  a  perfect  vapor  bath  of  perspiration 
returned  to  the  theatre  to  go  through  a  very  heavy  pro- 
gramme. 

It  was  on  such  occasions  as  these  that  I  felt  the  weight 
that  rested  on  my  shoulders ;  when  entirely  alone,  and 
single-handed,  I  was  expected  to  amuse  an  audience  of 
strangers  for  two  hours :  to  be  serious  and  funny,  to  imi- 
tate the  cracked  voice  of  an  old  woman,  sing  a  ballad 
decently,  change  my  voice  at  least  a  dozen  times,  and 
screw  my  face  up  into  every  imaginable  shape,  when  I  felt 
perfectly  wretched,  and  more  like  bursting  out  a-crying 
than  anything  else. 

Upon  this  night,  what  would  I  not  have  given  for  the 
look  of  a  well-remembered  face,  for  the  touch  of  a  friendly 
hand  ? 


286  Drifting  About. 

I  think  I  never  felt  so  desolate,  or  so  disinclined  to  go 
through  with  my  motley  programme. 

Now  for  the  fun  ! 

I  called  to  the  man  to  "  ring  up." 

He  replied,  by  running  away  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
stage,  and  returning  with  a  dirty  scrap  of  paper  in  his 
hand,  upon  which  was  written : 

"  I'm  deaf  and  dumb, 
"  And  t'other  man's  gone  home !  " 

Now  I  don't  pretend  to  say  I'm  a  model  of  either  pa- 
tience or  endurance,  or  that  I  am  very  nervous ;  but  at  this 
particular  moment  of  time,  if  I  had  spoken  at  all,  I  think 
I  should  certainly  have  exploded — burst,  with  indignation, 
rage,  and  fury. 

The  uselessness  of  it  at  once  flashed  upon  me,  and  I 
endeavored  to  be  calm.  The  poor  fellow  couldn't  help 
being  deaf  and  dumb,  though  certainly  I  deserved  better 
treatment  from  the  theatre  folks,  and  I  proceeded  at  once 
to  do  my  best. 

Writing,  then,  "ring  wp"  on  the  wall,  with  a  piece  of 
chalk,  I  walked  on,  commencing  my  first  song. 

My  audience  was  not  particularly  enthusiastic,  though  I 
think  I  succeeded  in  getting  one  or  two  faint  laughs,  at  the 
scene  from  the  "Lady  of  Lyons,"  and  the  imitation  of 
Madame  Anna  Bishop;  and  the  delight  I  felt  when  I 
found  I  had  arrived  at  the  "  ten  minutes  intermission" 
period,  can  be  easily  imagined. 

I  signed  to  my  deaf  and  dumb  man  to  ring  down  the 
curtain.     This  done,  I  wrote  hastily  on  a  piece  of  paper  : 

"  Go  to  my  room  and  get  a  shirt,  you'll  find  it  on  the 
bed." 

I  have  told  the  reader  that  the  heat  upon  this  occasion 
was  something  fearful ;  for  never  before  or  since,  not  even 
in  India,  have  I  been  so  perfectly  prostrated  as  I  was  upon 
this  night. 

The  time  was  short,  the  audience  impatient,  and  already 
had  commenced  clapping,  thumping,  and  "  hi  hi"ing  for 
the  unfortunate  performer  ;  I,  stripped  to  my  smallclothes, 
anxiously  awaiting  the  cooling  and  refreshing  change  of 


Drifting  About.  287 

linen,  when,  to  my  disgust  and  horror,  the  man  appeared 
with  a  birch  broom  and  a  sheet — (having  translated  my 
hurried  scrawl  of  room  for  broom,  and  shirt  for  sheet !) 

What  I  said  I  know  not ;  to  blow  the  man  up  was  use- 
less, for  he  couldn't  hear ;  but  I  think  I  must  have  looked 
like  a  madman ;  for  upon  seizing  Hold  of  the  sheet  and 
broom,  and  throwing  them  from  me,  they  went  right 
through  a  forest  of  trees  and  a  church  steeple,  and  the  man 
after  them,  leaving  me  all  alone  in  my  glory. 

The  first  part  of  my  programme  was  over,  thank  Hea- 
ven ;  and  when  the  readers  are  informed  that  I  had  sung 
four  ballads,  given  a  comic  scene  of  a  Pauline  and  Claude 
in  the  Lady  of  Lyons,  an  imitation  of  Anna  Bishop,  a 
lengthy  reading  from  Blackwood,  the  "  Charge  of  the  Light 
Brigade,"  a  comic  adventure  in  Sacramento,  and  read  an 
autograph  letter  of  Queen  Victoria,  they  will  sympathize 
with  me  in  my  affliction. 

My  ten  minutes  were  up,  and  having  managed  to  "  hoist 
the  rag"  myself,  •  on  I  went,  and  strange  to  say,  my  first 
recitation  was 

"  The  Song  of  a  Shirt." 

Now,  if  any  one  in  the  audience  had  the  slightest  idea  of 
what  had  been  going  on  behind  the  scenes,  I  should  have 
been  ruined ;  as  it  was,  I  proceeded  with  great  difficulty, 
for  not  only  had  every  vestige  of  my  own  piece  of  linen 
disappeared  long  since,  but  the  incident  itself,  and  my  con- 
sciousness of  the  peculiar  picture  I  presented  to  the  audi- 
ence, made  it  hard  for  me  to  keep  a  "  straight  face." 

The  second  part  over,  and  I  was  congratulating  myself 
upon  my  speedy  departure,  and  had  just  commenced  my  de- 
scription of  a  "Yankee  Town  Meeting,"  with  an  imitation  of 
Mr.  Nathan  Grunt,  a  grouty  old  chairman,  when  the  lights  of 
the  entire  establishment  went  out — a  general  scream  arose 
from  the  audience — while  I,  in  feeling  my  way  off  the  stage, 
fell  through  a  trap  door  upon  a  lot  of  shavings,  a  barberous 
scrape,  that  I  never  dreamed  of  getting  into. 

From  Bendigo  I  went  to  Eagle  Hawk,  and  at  the  Camp 
Hotel  gave  a  Reading ;  about  a  hundred  people  present ; 
tickets  5s. 

My  stage  was  the  dining-room  table.     I  had  no  piano, 


288  Driftino   About. 


o 


and  was  assisted  by  a  }'oung  gentleman  who  volunteered 
to  accompany  me  upon  an  accordeon ;  the  effect  was  not 
very  delightful,  either  upon  the  audience  or  myself,  and 
the  consequence  was,  that  the  ballads  were  disposed  of 
as  quickly  as  possible,  as  was  also  the  entertainment. 
Receipts  and  profits  limited. 


From  Eagle  Hawk  to  Castlemaine,  another  mining  town, 
was  engaged  for  £20,  at  the  Assembly  Room,  to  sing  two 
songs,  and  give  the  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade.  This 
style  of  thing  pays.  Thence  to  a  charming  little  spot 
called  Taradale,  where  I  was  delighted  to  meet  a  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Sirr,  whom  I  had  seen  frequently  at  the  French  Con- 
sul's, m  Melbourne.  I  was  greeted  most  cordially,  and  at 
the  little  church  on  Quinquagesima  Sunday,  February  22, 
heard  a  most  delightful  sermon  preached  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Martin,  whom  I  had  met  in  New  York  fifteen  years 
previously. 

Here  also  I  met  Mr.  Hoskins,  and  Miss  Julia  Harland, 
both  known  in  New  York. 

Kyneton  was  the  next  place,  where,  in  the  Church  of 
England  School  Room,  I  held  forth. 

The  room  crowded  ;  receipts  over  £30. 

Once  again  in  Melbourne,  at  my  old  quarters  at  the 
Mechanics'  Institute,  where,  under  the  immediate  patron- 
age of  His  Excellency  Sir  Henry  Barkly,  Lady  Barkly, 
and  Major-General  Macarthur,  I  gave  a  Farewell  Concert, 
in  which,  by  particular  desire,   I  introduced,  for  the  first 


p. 


Drifting  About.  289 

time  in  Victoria,  the  exciting  poem  of  the  Young  Gray- 
head. 

By  my  Memorandum  Book  I  find  that  on  the  3d  March 
I  went  to  the  Philharmonic  Concert,  after  a  good  dinner 
with  George  Loder,  where  Madame  Anna.  Bishop  sang, 
and  "Miska  Hawsa"  (any  relation  to  Caspar?)  played  the 
violin. 

4th.  Passed  a  delightful  evening  with  Mr.  James  Smith 
(once  of  Salisbury),  of  the  "  Argus." 

And  here,  at  this  remote  distance,  should  these  desultory 
ages  ever  reach  him,  let  me  thank  him,  as  well  as  the 

ress  generally,  throughout  the  Colonies,  for  the  very 
great  kindness  and  generous  attentions  received  at  their 
hands. 

23d  March.  Left  for  Adelaide,  South  Australia,  in 
steamship  "  White  Swan." 

On  the  4th  day  arrived  at  the  Port,  and  by  rail  to  the 
city,  and  put  up  at  a  very  cozy  hotel,*  kept  by  a  good  fel- 
low on  the  Square,  named  J.  K.  Jones. 

Took  White's  Assembly  Eooms,  and  gave  my  first  Con- 
cert on  Tuesday  evening,  March  31,  1857. 

Receipts  over  £40,  and  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents 
at  that ! 

Adelaide  is  decidedly  a  handsome  city,  and  has  more  the 
appearance  of  a  quiet,  well  organized,  regularly  built 
English  town  than  any  that  I  had  yet  visited.  The  Gov- 
ernment House,  where  Sir  Henry  and  Lady  Macdonald 
reign  supreme,  is  a  very  imposing  looking  edifice,  situated 
in  the  centre  of  magnificent  grounds,  tastefully  and  ele- 
gantly laid  out. 

The  city  boasts  also  of  several  very  handsome  churches, 
numbers  of  places  of  worship  of  various  denominations, 
two  theatres,  besides  several  very  stylish  public  build- 
ings. 

The  harbors  of  South  Australia  are  equally  good  with 
those  of  the  adjoining  colonies. 

They  are  chiefly  comprised  within  the  large  bays  called 
Spencer's  Gulf  and  Gulf  St.  Vincent- 
Port  Adelaide,  where  I  landed,  is  an  inlet  from  the  lat- 
ter, and  is  situated  about  seven  miles  from  the  city. 

Near  this  is  the  roadstead,  called  Holdfast  Bay,  the 

13 


290  Drifting  About. 

anchorage  of  which,  I  am  informed,  is  excellent,  but  the 
winds  blow  here  sometimes  fearfully. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  kindness  and  hospitali- 
ties received  from  many  in  Adelaide,  particularly  from  Dr. 
Taylor  and  his  interesting  family,  who,  during  my  sojourn, 
extended  to  me  the  most  generous  welcome ;  so  much  so, 
that  I  felt  the  greatest  disinclination  to  say  "  good-by." 

After  giving  four  entertainments  in  Adelaide,  and  one  at 
Pier  Hotel,  Glenelg,  I  started  in  the  steamer  Burra  Burra, 
Captain  Harper,  once  more  for  Melbourne. 

On  11th  May  left  for  Sydney,  New  South  Wales,  in  the 
Governor  General,  Captain  Cottier. 

On  13th,  passed  the  spot  where  the  California  steamer, 
Monumental  City,  was  lost,  on  board  of  which  was  my  old 
friend  Pete  Strobel,  of  San  Francisco.  The  place  is  called 
Tallaborga  Island. 


xc. 

SYDNEY. 

15th. — About  dark  arrived  in  Sydney,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  received  a  visit  from  my  old  friend  Col.  Lau- 
rence, of  whom  I  have  before  written  in  my  "  Pickersgill 
Reminiscences  "  in  1840. 

Sydney  is  the  capital  of  the  Australian  colonies,  and  is 
the  largest  as  well  as  the  most  ancient  city  in  the  colonies  ; 
and  the  harbor,  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  world.  I 
believe  the  place  contains  about  100,000  inhabitants. 

On  reaching  the  city  from  what  is  called  the  "  Heads" 
it  has  a  very  imposing  appearance.  The  large  amount  of 
shipping,  the  bright  green  verdure  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, the  terraced  garden  walks,  the  city  stretching  along 
the  shore  and  on  the  heights  in  the  most  magnificent  man- 
ner;  the  lower  portion  thereof  fairly  teeming  with  the 
adjuncts  of  commerce,  the  central  part  completely  studded 
with  churches,  cathedrals,  and  magnificent  public  buildings, 
while  the  heights  of  the  neighboring  township,  called 
Woollomolloo— what  a  name ! — are  crowned  with  the  ele- 


Drifting  About.  291 

gant  villas  and  suburban  retreats  of  the  elite  of  Sydney 
society.  The  scene  is  one  of  remarkable  beauty,  not  only 
from  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the  beautiful  islands 
and  inlets,  the  shores  of  which  seem  covered  with  a  vege- 
tation ever  verdant,  but  the  general  effect  upon  the  "look- 
er-on "  is  most  exhilarating,  from  the  bustle,  activity,  and 
beauty  that  perpetually  greet  the  eye. 

It  was  difficult  to  me  upon  landing  to  believe  I  was 
really  at  the  antipodes ! 

Everything  was  so  thoroughly  English. 

Streets  large,  well  paved,  the  bright  jets  of  gas  lighting 
up  most  brilliantly  the  shops  of  the  "  haberdasher  "  and 
"jeweller,"  whose  wares  astonished  and  dazzled  the  eye  of 
the  beholder,  and  presented  as  many  prismatic  colors  to 
the  vision  as  did  ever  Evrington's  on  Ludgate  Hill,  or 
Storr  &  Mortimer  in  Bond  street.  'Buses  passed  and 
repassed,  while  "  cads,"  with  ringer  up,  solicited  a  fare  at 
sixpence  a  head,  and  "  Hansoms "  darted  by  you  with 
meteor-like  rapidity. 

Piemen  called  out  "baked  taters,  all  'ot,"  while  the 
bright  tin  cans,  with  the  little  chimney  of  steam,  looked  as 
inviting  to  the  hungry  pedestrian  as  in  Shoreditch  or  the 
Minories;  piemen,  too,  with  little  white  aprons,  vended 
their  "mutton"  and  "kidneys"  "vith"  or  "vithout" 
gravy ;  while  from  a  baker's  window  I  read  the  well 
remembered  words :  "  Muffins  and  crumpets  every  evening 
at  six."  It  seemed  that  at  every  step  something  occur- 
red to  remind  me  of  old  England,  roast  beef  "and 
things." 

The  market,  a  superb  affair  in  George  street,  seemed  as 
richly  stocked  as  the  Fulton  or  Washington  in  New  York, 
or  the  Honey  Lane  in  London ;  while  if  you  wish  a  delight- 
ful stroll  through  well  gravelled  walks,  verdant  swards, 
beds  of  delicious  flowers,  go  to  the  Botanical  Gardens, 
where  the  floral  treasures  of  the  tropics  flourish  in  the  most 
entrancing  luxuriousness,  and  breathe  their  fragrance  in  an 
atmosphere  as  balmy  as  in  the  islands  of  the  Pacific  I  had 
so  recently  visited. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  in  this  superb  spot  all  and  every 
kind  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical  rarity  had  been  trans- 
planted— brought    from    all  parts  of   the   globe — South 


292  Drifting  About. 

American  and  Indian  exotics  growing  here  in  the  greatest 
luxuriance. 

The  gardens  are  laid  out  in  the  most  attractive  manner 
possible ;  shady  walks,  long  grassy  terraces,  cozy  seats  and 
lounging  places,  hewn  out  of  solid  rock,  overshadowed  by 
native  figs  and  other  trees  of  the  thickest  foliage. 

Fountains,  with  every  variety  of  jet,  spurted  forth  their 
refreshing  streams  and  sparkled  in  the  bright  sunlight, 
cooling  the  air,  delighting  the  eye,  and  making  the  little 
gold  and  silver  fish  skip  and  jump  about  in  the  pond 
beneath. 

Then  here  you  have  a  Hyde  Park,  where  you  may  see 
the  "wealthy,"  if  not  the  "  noble,"  taking  their  drive  regu- 
larly and  with  singular  importance,  and  on  this  point  it 
struck  me  it  was  difficult  to  tell  "  who's  who !" 

That  gaudy  and  flashy  equipage,  with  the  liveried  and 
powdered  coachman  and  footman,  with  the  armorial  bear- 
ings tawdrily  painted  on  either  side,  that  has  just  dashed 
by  you,  bespattering  you  with  mud  or  covering  you  with 
dust,  contains,  perhaps,  the  distinguished  carcase  of  a  man 
vulgarly  called  an  old  "  lag,"  who  may  have  left  his  native 
land  for  either  having  indulged  in  the  pleasant  pastime  of 
"  sheep-stealing,"  or  the  more  desperate  one  of  "murder." 
He  has  not  only  "  served  out  "  but  improved  his  time ;  a 
new  generation  has  sprung  up;  and  though  he  can  never 
return  to  England — mind  that! — he  feels  now  as  "good  as 
the  next  man,"  and  perhaps  even  exchanges  words  with  his 
"  Excellency  the  Governor." 

I  was  told  that  the  word  "  Convict"  must  never  be  men- 
tioned in  Sidney,  as  it^was  difficult  to  say  whose  corns  might 
be  trod  upon. 

This  appeared  to  be  the  only  disagreeable  element  in  the 
society  of  this  place — I  felt  nervous  and  unpleasant  in  my 
daily  intercourse  with  the  people,  having  perpetually  the 
sensation  of  confronting  the  once  upon  a  time  occupant  of 
a  cell  in  the  Old  Bailey,  or  a  similar  resting-place  at  the 
Hotel  d'  Horsemonger  Lane. 

The  Jews  are  not  merely  a  very  wealthy  but  highly 
influential  class  here,  and  the  entre'e  to  the  "  upper  circles" 
of  the  Israelitish  population  will  not  only  be  found  most 
delightful  to  the  stranger,  but  if  they  happen  to  take  a 


Drifting  About.  293 

fancy  to  you,  pecuniarily  advantageous,  upon  either  a 
"  benefit"  night — or  a  "  first"  or  "  last"  appearance. 

Probably  no  artiste  was  more  petted,  or  left  Sidney  with 
mightier  proofs  of  the  munificence  of  this  liberal  class  of 
citizens  than  did  Madame  Anna  Bishop. 

And  now  for  my  opening  night  in  the  Capital. 

I  had  taken  up  my  residence  at  "  Osmond's"  in  Pitt 
street,  and  with  the  assistance  and  friendly  aid  of  my  young 
friend  "  Ed,"  son  of  Col.  L— — ,  had  taken  the  "  Mechanics' 
School  of  Arts"  for  my  opening  night. 

M  Freyers"  printing  office  in  George  street  had  issued 
immense  "  Posters"  in  the  biggest  kind  of  type,  announcing 
the  fact,  and  the  Bill-stickers  had  faithfully  stuck  'em  up 
"  all  over  the  City,"  while  I,  with  my  treasurer,  jumped  in  a 
carriage — {for  it  was  raining  in  torrents  I — as  usual — )  to 
convey  me  to  the  Hall  in  Pitt  street. 

My  audience  seemed  delighted,  the  Hall  was  well  filled, 
containing  in  money  about  thirty-six  pounds,  and  every- 
thing went  off  well — tbe  "  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade"  as 
usual,  carrying  off  the  honors.  The  press  the  next  day, 
without  any  exception,  was  most  laudatory. 

June  3. — Went  to-day  to  the  "Newtown  Cemetery,"  a 
most  beautiful  spot  for  the  burial  of  the  dead,  and  some- 
thing in  the  style  of  "  Greenwood." 

Conspicuous  among  the  more  attractive  of  the  tombs  is 
a  very  elegant  monument  erected  to  the  renowned  Harpist 
Bochsa,  who  died  in  this  city  two  weeks  after  his  arrival. 
Here  is  the  Inscription  :  — 

SACRED   TO   THE   MEMORY 
OF 

NICHOLAS  CHARLES  BOCHSA,  ESQ., 

who  died  6th  January,  1856. 

aged  65. 

This  monument  is  erected  in  sincere  devotedness  by  his  faithful 
friend  and  pupil, 

ANNA  BISHOP. 

"  Mourn  him,  mourn  his  harp-strings  broken, 
Never  more  shall  float  such  music ; 
None  could  sweep  the  lyre  like  him  1" 


294  Drifting  About. 


XCI. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  LUNATIC  ASYLUM  AT   PARAMATTA. 

Lying  on  my  table,  as  I  am  writing  this  sketch,  is  a 
piece  of  dark  brown  paper,  containing  three  little  pieces  of 
white  linen,  upon  one  of  which  is  worked  in  green  silk 
the  words  :  "  Forget  me  not,"  and  upon  each  of  the  others, 
in  the  same  material  a  "  Chalice ;"  there  is  also  a  piece  of 
worsted  of  varied  colors,  in  the  form  of  a  tippet  or  collar. 
Upon  the  inside  of  this  piece  of  paper  are  the  words : 

"  From  Miss  Brady 

to 

Prince  Albert  of  Saxe  Coburg, 

England. 

Europe." 

Upon  the  outside,  I  wrote  at  the  same  time  the  follow- 
ing : 

Given  to  me  by  Miss  Brady  a  lunatic,  with  the  per- 
mission of  Mrs.  Statham,  the  Matron  of  the  Paramatta 
Insane  Asylum. 

Thursday,  June  11,  1857. 

The  scene,  which  will  never  be  forgotten  by  me,  I  shall 
now  attempt  briefly  to  describe. 

I  had  been  invited  by  one  of  the  Wardens  of  the  Institu- 
tion to  visit  it,  and  accordingly  devoted  an  entire  day  to 
the  purpose. 

The  Asylum  itself  is  a  magnificent  structure  of  granite, 
several  stories  in  height,  containing  a  very  large  number  of 
wards  for  patients,  male  and  female,  court  yards  of  large 
dimensions,  and  grounds  tastefully  laid  out ;  order  and 
cleanliness  here  reign  supreme,  and  the  regulations  and 
rules  are  strict,  and  rigidly  enforced. 

Upon  mv  entrance  into  the  Department  for  females,  I 
was  at  first  struck  by  the  beauty  of  a  lady  seated  at  a  desk, 
whom  I  at  first  took  for  one  of  the  assistants,  or  perhaps 
the  Matron. 


Drifting  About.  29c 

I  was  proceeding  through  the  room  to  a  beautiful  little 
garden  spot  just  beyond,  when  she  approached  me,  and 
laying  her  hand  quite  gently  on  my  arm,  said:  "Oh!  Sir; 
I  trust  I  may  be  pardoned — but  you  are  about  returning  to 
Europe,  are  you  not?" 

I  was  taken  sorely  by  surprise,  and  at  the  same  time  com- 
pletely dazzled  by  her  beauty,  that  for  the  moment  I  was 
off  my  guard,  and  hesitated;  when  Mrs.  Strath  am  the 
Matron  ran  to  me,  and  quietly  whispering  in  my  ear, 
hurriedly  said — "  Humor  her — it's  a  severe  case — she's  per- 
fectly harmless — and  her  conversation  will  interest  you. 

In  brief,  she  was  a  highly  educated,  young  Irish  lady,  who 
from  reverses  had  to  take  a  situation  as  governess  in  a 
wealthy  family  in  Sydney  ;  for  years — even  since  childhood 
— she  had  been  in  love  with  Prince  Albert — and  the  feel- 
ing had  taken  so  strong  a  hold  upon  her  nature,  that  she 
had  been  for  a  long  time  a  confirmed  lunatic. 

Asking  me  if  I  would  walk  with  her  a  few  steps,  she 
said,  taking  from  her  pocket,  and  handing  me  a  little 
package : 

"  Will  you  do  me  the  greatest  favor,  upon  your  return  to 
England,  to  go  to  Windsor  Castle,  and  give  this  packet 
to  Prince  Albert?" 

"  With  pleasure,"  I  replied.  "  Oh !  sir,  if  you  knew  how 
in  the  long  cold  nights  of  winter  I  have  sat  in  my  lonely 
cell,  thinking  of  him — and  knitting  and  working  till  my 
fingers  bled  again — at  this  little  worsted  collar  for  his  dear 
neck !"  and  then  she  would  kiss  it,  and  press  it  to  her  lips — 
"  and  these,"  said  she — "  are  the  copies  of  the  '  Chalice' 
used  by  me  at  the  Holy  Sacrament — tell  him  I  pray  for 
him  night  and  day — and  that  I  know  we  shall  meet  again 
and  be  happy."  I  asked  her  when  she  last  saw  him.  She 
quickly  answered — "  About  six  months  ago  I  went  over 
there — and  the  Queen  was  very  jealous  of  me,  but  when 
she  found  out  we  were  engaged  to  be  married,  she  was 
quite  cordial  in  her  manner,  and  received  me  daily  at  the 
Castle." 

"  This  other  piece  of  linen,  ask  him  to  wear  in  his  waist- 
coat pocket — you  see  it  has  '  Forget  me  not'  on  it. 

"  I  know  you  will  oblige  me,  sir,  by  doing  this  for  me, 
— and  now" — bending  her  lovely  face  quite  close  to  mine 


296  Drifting  About. 

— she  said :  "  They  think  I'm  mad — but  I  am  not ! — it's  so 
hard  to  be  kept  in  these  strong  stone  walls !  So  hard  to 
sit  day  after  day,  at  that  little  desk,  poring  over  the  dear 
letters  he  has  sent  me — and  waiting — O !  how  vainly — for 
the  sound  of  his  footsteps ! 

"  But  won't  you  use  your  influence  at  the  Foreign  Office 
in  Downing  street" — yes,  she  said  Downing  street ! — "  to  get 
my  release? — won't  you" — and  with  streaming  eyes,  and 
burying  her  face  in  her  hands,  her  magnificent  dark  hair 
falling  over  her  neck  and  shoulders  in  the  greatest  profu- 
sion, she  sat  down  on  a  bench,  in  front  of  some  beautiful 
flowers. 

I  confess  I  was  unmanned,  for  nothing  could  be  appa- 
rently more  earnest  or  sincere  than  her  manner,  nothing 
more  terrible  than  her  grief! 

Rising  in  a  few  moments,  at  the  approach  of  the  matron, 
she  said: 

"  I'm  perfectly  calm  now ;  I  don't  often  have  these  fits, 
but  the  fact  of  your  so  soon  seeing  the  Prince,  and  carrying 
him  these  things,  has  affected  me  ;  and  now,  once  and  for 
ever  (I  give  her  words  as  nearly  as  I  can  remember),  let 
me  reassure  you  that  I  am  in  my  right  senses,  and  kept 
here  against  my  will.  Oh,  madam  (looking  at  the  matron), 
you  are  very  kind,  but  very  cruel  in  keeping  me  here  ;  but 
I'll  go  to  my  room  and  pray,  it's  all  that's  left  me  to  do 
now ;  will  you  come  and  see  my  little  room  ?"  and  follow- 
ing her,  with  the  keeper's  permission,  I  stepped  into  the 
apartment,  kept  scrupulously  clean,  the  window  open, 
though  heavily  barred,  and  a  portrait  of  Prince  Albert 
framed  with  evergreen  and  wild  flowers ! 

I  was  just  about  bidding  her  farewell,  with  my  hand 
upon  the  door,  when  she  seized  me  by  the  arm,  and  with  a 
vice-like  grip  pulled  me  inside.  Her  face  was  deathly 
pale,  her  eyes  flashed  fire,  and  with  a  hissing  voice,  sub- 
dued, though  terribly  in  earnest,  she  said  :  "  YouVe  been 
deceiving  me — you  think  I'm  mad — you're  like  all  the  rest 
— you  shant  go  !  I'll  have  my  revenge,  and — "  for  a  mo- 
ment, I  am  frank  to  confess,  I  felt  rather  queer — nay, 
alarmed.  It  was  impossible  to  move,  and  her  eyes  fixed 
on  me,  seemed  to  change  every  second  in  their  fiendish 
expression.       Luckily,  I  saw  the  handle  of  a  bell-rope, 


Drifting  About.  297 

which,  with  the  disengaged  hand,  I  hastily  pulled.  It  was 
answered  by  the  keeper,  whip  in  hand,  at  the  sight  of 
which  she  relaxed  her  hold,  and  I  instantly  withdrew, 
leaving  her  weeping  piteously. 

It  was,  indeed,  a  heart-sickening  exhibition. 

I  had  fancied  enough  for  one  day  of  an  Insane  Asylum, 
but,  on  the  suggestion  of  my  guide  that  I  should  see  some- 
thing a  little  less  tragic,  we  proceeded  to  the  "  play-ground," 
a  large  open  space,  where  certainly  some  comical  and 
laughable  scenes  were  enacted. 

A  fellow  immediately  rushed  up  to  me,  dressed  like  an 
Indian  chief;  face  painted,  tomahawk  in  hand,  feathers  of 
all  sizes  stuck  in  his  cap,  and  flourishing  an  old  musket 
barrel  in  his  hand,  he  said : 

"  Don't  you  know  me  ?  I'm  the  Emperor  Napoleon ! 
Yes,  and  you  don't  think  this  is  St.  Helena ;  but  I  tell  you 

those English  will  feel  me  yet.     There  goes  the  fellow 

(pointing  to  another  patient)  that  took  me  prisoner !  Ha ! 
na !  ha !"  and  with  a  whoop  and  a  yell,  he  ran  off. 

Then  came  up  a  man  dressed  like  a  policeman,  who  said 
to  me  : 

"  I  was  hung  about  a  week  ago  for  committing  murder ; 
but  I  was  acquitted  unanimously  by  the  jury  and  put  in 
here  for  safe-keeping  ;  can't  you  get  me  out  ?" 

Some  were  dancing,  some  singing,  some  sitting  with  their 
faces  buried  in  their  hands,  some  sprawling  on  the  ground, 
and  so  on.  It  was  a  sorry  sight  at  the  best,  and  I  prepared 
to  take  my  departure ;  but,  recurring  for  a  moment  to  the 
poor  female  first  mentioned,  when  recently  the  news  arrived 
here  of  the  death  of  Prince  Albert,  I  could  not  help  think- 
ing of  the  above  strange  incident ;  and  I  fancied  that,  per- 
haps, long  since,  she  also  may  have  found  rest  and  relief  in 
a  visit  from  the  great  leveller,  Death. 


XCII. 

I  MEET  WITH  AN  OLD  SCHOOLFELLOW  ! 

Passing  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  Theatre,  I  noticed  on 
the  bills  that  the  play  of  King  Henry  VIII.  was  to  be 
performed  that  night — King  Henry,  Mr.*  G.  H.  Rogers. 

13* 


298 


Drifting  About. 


Now,  that  morning  I  had  been  informed  that  a  Mr. 
George  Herbert  Kogers  had  remarked  to  a  friend  that  he 
thought  that  I  was  the  same  "  Steve  Massett"  that  was  his 
"  chum  "  at  Troy  Town  Academy. 

I  too  was  satisfied  that  it  must  be  the  same,  for  the  name 
was  by  no  means  a  common  one,  so  to  the  stage-door  I 
went,  and  sent  in  my  card,  which  was  instantly  acknow- 
ledged, by  the  doorkeeper's  returning  with  the  request  that 
I  would  walk  into  Mr.  Eogers's  dressing-room. 

In  I  went,  my  quondam  schoolmate  seated  in  all  the 
regal  splendor  of  a  stage  King  Henry!  He  jumped  up, 
and  to  my  question,  "  Well,  George,  my  dear  fellow,  how 
are  you?"  he  seized  me  by  the  hand  and  shook  it  in  a 
very  genial  though  unkingly  manner! 

He  had  grown  monstrously  in  size ;  was  the  father  of  a 
large  family  of  children,  and  the  pet,  if  not  the  best,  actor 
in  the  colonies. 

We  had  a  jolly  laugh,  and  (between  the  acts)  a  chat,  and 
a  little  "home-brewed"  arter  the  play. 


Drifting  About.  299 


XCIII. 

I  AM  PATRONIZED  BY  HIS  EXCELLENCY  THE  GOVERNOR 
AND  SUITE. 

It  was  suggested  that  if  I  could  obtain  the  patronage  of 
Sir  William  and  Lady  Denison,  it  would  greatly  assist,  as 
an  attraction,  in  filling  the  house. 

Accordingly,  presenting  a  note  of  introduction  I  had  to 
one  of  the  "  A.  D.  C.'s,"  I  was  very  kindly  received,  and 
left  with  the  consoling  information  that  Sir  William  and 
Lady  Denison  would  be  happy  to  attend. 

The  entertainment  went  off  with  the  greatest  eclat,  and  I 
cleared,  by  the  two  hours7  work,  one  hundred  pounds  ! 

Bidding  adieu  to  my  esteemed  friends  the  L.'s,  not  for- 
getting many  others  who  had  shown  me  much  hospitality, 
I  left  the  good  old  city  of  Sydney  for  Hobart  Town,  Van 
Diemen's  land  (now  called  Tasmania),  in  the  steamship  Tas- 
mania, Captain  Clinch,  a  three  days'  trip,  for  which  I  paid 
£10. 

On  the  17th  June  we  passed  Maria  Island,  a  most  beauti- 
ful looking  spot  from  the  sea,  where  Smith  O'Brien  and 
others  were  confined,  and  from  which  they  most  fortu- 
nately escaped. 

June  18.-— Arrived  at  "Hobart  Town."  Put  up  at 
"  Todd's  Hotel." 

"  Hobart  Town"  is  an  extremely  gloomy  looking  place, 
—in  fact  it  is  a  second  "  Sydney,"  though  on  a  smaller  scale 
—the  same  disagreeable  "  element"  existing  in  "  society," 
that  was  noticeable  in  Sydney  ;  and  which,  to  a  foreigner,  is 
so  offensive. 

Talking  of  "  Society,"  it  seemed  to  me  that  there  really 
was  only  one  "  first  class"  or  upper  circle  recognised  at  all 
in  the  Colonies ;  that  was  those  immediately  connected  with 
the  respective  Governments — the  Government  "  Officials," 
and  the  Officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy. 

Into  this  "  Circle"  it  is  difficult  to  get— and  it  struck  me 
that  distinctions  were  drawn  with  even  a  tighter  rein  than 
in  aristocratic  London. 


300  Drifting  About. 

I  will  give  one  or  two  instances.  In  a  neighboring  City 
during  my  visit,  there  came  off  at  the  "  Assembly  Koorns," 
what  they  call  "  a  Race  Ball,"  given  by  a  Committee  of 
gentlemen  composing  the  leading  members  of  the  "  Club." 

The  owner  of  the  "  Rooms,"  and  the  lessee  thereof,  a 
very  wealthy  man  at  that — told  me  himself,  that  much  as 
he  wished  his  daughter  to  be  present,  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble for  him  or  any  of  his  family  to  be  admitted.  No  money 
could  purchase  a  ticket.  He  was  a  "  Tailor,"  and  a  very 
fashionable  one  at  that — he  was  an  "  outsider." 

Again,  the  proprietor  of  one  of  the  Hotels — and  the 
wealthy  man — told  me  that  he  was  going  to  take  his  wife 
— that  he  couldn't  often  afford  to  "  treat  her,"  but  this  time 
he  was  going  to  invest  three  pounds  three  shillings  (about 
fifteen  dollars)  in  a  ticket ;  (I  heard  afterwards)  the  moment 
it  was  known  who  the  party  was,  he  was  instantly  rejected. 

One  more  instance — the  most  ridiculous  of  all — and  I 
have  done. 

A  wealthy  "  Haberdasher,"  or  as  we  call  them  "  Dry 
Goods  Merchants,"  applied  for  tickets  for  himself  and 
family ;  he  being  at  that  time  looked  upon  as  the  very 
"  A.  T.  Stewart"  of  the  Colony. 

He  even  was  rejected  because  forsooth  he  "  broke  bulk," 
or  in  other  words  retailed  his  merchandise. 

The  entree  into  the  best  Colonial  Society  is  open  only 
and  exclusively  to  three  professions — Divinity,  Law,  and 
Physic. 

On  the  22d  of  June,  at  the  "  Royal  Assembly  Rooms," 
I  gave  my  first  "  Ballad  Concert,  and  Readings  from  the 
Poets." 

It  went  off  very  successfully — the  audience  appeared 
pleased,  and  the  receipts  were  about  forty-five  pounds. 


XCIV. 

AMUSING  LETTER  FROM  AN   "AGENT." 

One  of  my  "  Agents,"  a  regular  out  and  out  Yankee, 
whom  we'll  call  Mr.  Brick,  had  been  getting  a  little  "  tight," 


Drifting  About.  301 

anglice  "  drunk,"— and  as  this  happened  more  than  once, 
I  wrote  him  a  line  stating  that  his  services  were  no 
longer  required.  The  next  day  I  received  the  following 
note: 

S.  C.  Massett  Eqr., 

Dear  Sir  : — Larst  Monday  was  the  fust  time  I  got 
"  little  over  the  Bay,"  for  the  larst  six  months.  The  reason 
why  I  fell  in  with  so  many  friends  in  Different  Hotels 
whilst  I  was  working  for  you  Concert,  that  night  I  work 
harder  that  Day  than  I  ever  Did  before  to  Get  a  house  that 
Night. 

You  got  me  wurse  by  torking  to  me ;  the  way  you  did, 
I  sold  fore  (4)  Tickets,  which  I  have  given  you  credic  for 
them.  If  you  want  to  see  me  you  ken  find  me  to  the 
Shakespere  Hotel.  I  am  about  starting  a  Cumpany  here 
myself,  providing  if  I  can  get  Two  persons  which  I  want. 

Yours  truly, 
A.  Brick. 

My  second  entertainment  was  given  under  the  "  Patron- 
age" of  His  Excellency  the  Governor,  Sir  Henry  Edward 
Fox  Young — Lady  Young  (formerly  Miss  Marryat),  a  most 
delightful  and  fascinating  lady — Sir  Valentine  Fleming, 
Lady  Fleming,  Lady  Campbell,  besides  many  of  the  officers 
of  the  12th  Regiment. 

I  was  indebted  for  the  above  to  the  friendly  offices  of 
the  Governor's  aide-camp,  Captain  Henry  Maule ;  to  whom 
I  had  a  letter  of  introduction,  and  whose  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality during  my  brief  sojourn  in  this  city  I  cannot  easily 
forget.  To  him  and  his  amiable  wife,  Lady  Campbell,  I  offer 
my  earnest  thanks,  and  kindest  remembrances,  and  yet  live 
in  the  hope  of  greeting  them  again. 

While  at  Hobart  Town  it  was  suggested  that  a  Concert 
might  be  given  at  a  suburban  village  of  "  Oaklands,"  and 
"  Campbell  town." 

Thither  I  went  by  stage. 

I  was  indebted  for  the  use  of  a  very  good  piano  to  a 
Mrs.  Whiteford,  daughter  of  the  celebrated  actor,  R.  "W. 
Elliston,  of  Drury  Lane. 


302  Drifting  About. 

From  Hobart  Town  I  went  per  mail  coach,  as  in  the  old 
time,  to  Launceston,  a  distance  of  120  miles — fare  £3. 

The  road,  made  by  the  convicts,  was  one  of  the  finest  I 
had  ever  travelled  on ;  the  weather  was  intensely  cold,  and 
before  we  arrived,  the  snow  was  falling  fast.  Think  of  this 
in  July  ! 

Put  up  at  the  Cornwall  Hotel,  attached  to  which  was 
the  Assembly  Eooms,  and  for  which  they  charged  me 
£5  55.  a  night. 

Here  I  met  with  the  old  New  York  favorite,  Mr.  John 
Dunn,  or  as  he  was  more  familiarly  known,  "  that  Rascal 
Jack." 


xcv. 

ft 

STILL  MOVING  ON. 

In  a  cozy  little  room,  on  the  second  floor  of  the  before 
mentioned  hotel,  on  a  cold  and  frosty  night,  comfortably 
seated  in  a  couple  of  old-fashioned  arm-chairs,  in  front  of  a 
bright  coal  fire,  were  the  writer  of  these  lines,  and  Rascal 
Jack,  his  excellent  wife  and  daughter  Rosa  sitting  on  the 
sofa  reading. 

The  conversation  was  somewhat  discursive,  and  ran  into 
politics  and  the  (then)  present  condition  of  the  Emperor  of 
the  French. 

"  By  the  way,  I  see  my  quondam  friend  of  other  days, 
Mons.  Henri,  who  was  the  stage  manager  at  the  theatre  in 
Paris  while  I  was  performing  there,  is  now  a  very  big  man 
— even  the  Count  de  Morney,  the  particular  and  personal 
friend  of  Louis  Napoleon." 

I  asked  him  if  he  was  quite  certain  as  to  the  identity  of 
the  individual.  "  Quite,"  replied  Jack  Dunn ;  "  and  I  only 
wish  he'd  return  me  the  money  I  loaned  him.  It  would 
come  in  very  appropriately  just  now." 

Upon  questioning  him  further,  he  informed  me  that  at 
the  time  Louis  Napoleon  was  imprisoned  in  the  Castle  of 
Ham,  he  loaned  Mons.  Henri,  the  present  Count  de  Mor- 
ney, £15,  which,  money  was  effectual  in  aiding  Napoleon's 
escape. 


Drifting  About.  303 

While  in  Hobart  Town,  I  was  informed  that  the  Captain 
of  a  vessel  bound  for  the  East  Indies  had  remarked  that  if 
I  had  any  disposition  to  visit  those  latitudes,  a  state  room 
in  his  ship  was  at  my  service. 

Now  having  made  up  my  mind  to  visit  Calcutta,  I  thought 
this  was  an  opportunity  not  to  be  slighted.  Accordingly,  I 
conferred  with  my  friend  Captain  Maule,  who  agreed  with 
me  on  the  propriety  of  accepting  it. 

And  now,  as  I  am  about  ringing  down  the  curtain  on  my 
brief  sojourn  in  the  Australian  Colonies,  I  intend  letting 
ray  readers  into  some  of  the  secrets  of  the  profits  thereof. 

Imprimis :  Was  there  ever  an  instance  on  record  of  a 
public  performer,  male  or  female,  who  in  the  announce  bills, 
or  the  puffs  preliminary,  was  not  served  up  in  something  of 
the  following  style : 

"  His  (or  her)  career  and  success  was  one  complete 
triumph." — "Entertainments  crowded  to  suffocation  ;" — 
and  "  winning  golden  opinions  from  all  sorts  of  men." 

Everywhere  I  went  I  was  successful.  Houses  were 
crowded,  if  they  did  not  contain  expenses,  and  audiences 
invariably  delighted,  charmed,  and  electrified. 

I  had  visited  the  four  colonies,  given  readings  in  each, 
and  upon  referring  to  a  little  memorandum  by  my  side,  I 
find  the  following  figures : 

Gave  Fifty-two  Entertainments. 

Total  Eeceipts £898  14    6 

Expenses 897     0    0 

Profits  of  the  Trip  .     .     .      £1  14     6 

The  reader  will  perceive  that  I  have  long  since  fully 
appreciated  the  force  of  the  aphorism,  "  All  that  glitters  is 
not  gold." 

Still,  with  a  light  heart  and  several  thin  pairs  of  breeches 
(for  I  was  going  to  a  hot  climate),  I  sailed  in  the  bark  For- 
tune for  Bombay. 


304  Drifting  About. 

XCVI. 

OFF  FOR  INDIA! 

On"  the  20th  July,  in  the  year  of  grace  1857,  I  sailed 
from  Launceston,  Van  Diemen's  Land,  for  the  East  Indies. 

The  reader  has  been  informed  that  the  Captain  of  the 
aforesaid  vessel  had  extended  an  invitation  to  me,  and  being 
rather  prepossessed  in  his  favor  by  his  frank  and  apparently 
open-hearted  manner,  I  looked  forward  prospectively  to  a 
right  jolly  time. 

I  was  the  only  passenger,  excepting  a  Dr.  E ,  the 

surgeon  of  the  ship,  who  had  accompanied  the  skipper  from 
Liverpool,  in  one  of  James  Baines's  emigrant  ships,  in  the 
same  capacity. 

Now,  long  ere  this,  the  reader  has,  I  trust,  found  out  that 
I  am  a  pretty  good  sailor.  The  sensation  of  sea-sickness  is 
to  me  unknown,  and  I  am  never  so  perfectly  happy  or  con- 
tent as  when  on  the  water. 

It  was,  then,  upon  the  third  day  out  that  I  began  to  re- 
gret the  step  I  had  taken,  and  to  appreciate  the  hornets' 
nest  into  which  I  had  unwittingly  plunged  myself. 

I  do  not  mention  the  name  of  my  tormentor,  in  the  per- 
son of  the  aforesaid  captain,  nor  the  particulars  of  the  hos- 
pitality extended  to  me,  or  the  brutal  treatment  the  crew 
received. 

Dr.  Johnson,  I  believe,  likened  a  ship  to  "  a  prison,  with 
the  chance  of  being  drowned." 

Macaulay,  in  his  eloquent  speech  on  the  life  of  Warren 
Hastings,  says  that  "  it  is  on  board  a  vessel,  where  there  is 
nothing  to  drive  away  the  dull  monotony  of  the  voyage  but 
quarrelling  and  love-making,  that  the  deadliest  enmities 
are  engendered,  as  also  the  most  lasting  attachments." 

The  captain  turned  out  to  be  of  a  most  ungovernable 
temper,  cruel,  domineering,  exacting,  suspicious,  and  arbi- 
trary ;  and  during  a  sixty  days'  residence  on  the  water 
with  him  fifty  were  passed  by  me  seated  at  the  same  table, 
without  exchanging  a  word. 


Drifting  About.  305 

Six  of  the  crew  were  escaped  convicts — their  names  and 
sentences  were  as  follows : 

1.  King,  seven  years,  Port  Arthur — forgery. 

2.  James  Simmonds,  fifteen  years,  Norfolk  Island — 
stealing  silver  plate. 

3.  Tom  Johnson,  eight  years — mutiny. 

4.  Joe,  five  years,  broaching  cargo — V.  D.  L. 

5.  Wm.  Johnson,  five  years,  felony — V.  D.  Land.1 

6.  Cook,  three  years. 
A  lively  lot  1 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  gentlemanly  first  and  second 
officers,  W.  Clerke  and  W.  Harwood,  and  the  good-natur- 
ed companionship   of  my   medical  friend,   Dr.  E ,  I 

know  not  what  I  should  have  done,  and  the  reader  will 
enter  into  my  sensations  of  delight,  when  on  the  sixty- 
third  day  out  the  "  Towers  of  Bombay"  loomed  up  in  the 
distance ! 


.///vMWf 


On  Friday,  the  18th  September,  I  was  once  again  on 
terra  firma. 

The  sensations  of  pleasure  and  delight  that  I  experienced 
on  landing  at  the  stone  pier  in  the  capital  of  British  India, 
cannot  be  described.     The  feeling  of  emancipation   and 

freedom  from  the  tyrannical  presence  of  Captain  ,  a 

new  life  seemed  before  me,  and  though  alone,  in  a  city 
of  800,000  souls,  the  changes,  the  novelty  of  the  scene, 
the  delicious  atmosphere,  and  the  feeling  of  untrammelled 


306  Drifting  About. 

independence,  inspired  me  with  hope,  and  filled  me  with 
pleasant  anticipations. 

I  think  it  is  Dickens  who  says  "  There  are  a  few  days 
in  our  lives  which  stand  out  from  all  others  we  have  ever 
known,  days  on  which  it  seems  to  us  as  if  the  flood  of  sun- 
light round  us  is  gilded  with  so  bright  a  glory,  that  even 
the  commonest  things  on  which  it  falls,  glow  with  a  beauty 
we  never  felt  before,  days  on  which  the  fresh  breeze  pass- 
ing over  us,  and  sweeping  through  the  green  leaves  over- 
head, whispers  ever  to  us  to  cast  all  sorrow  from  our 
hearts,  for  that  in  the  great  world  around  us,  there  is  infi- 
nite joy,  and  happiness,  and  love ;"  such  a  day  was  this,  and 
bright  and  beautiful  with  the  blue  clear  sky,  with  the 
golden  sunbeams,  with  the  light  laughing  wind,  it  rises  in 
my  memory  now — a  day  never  to  be  forgotten. 

Jumping  into  my  "  palke"  or  "  palankeen,"  a  convey- 
ance borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four  natives,  I  wended  my 
way  to  u  Barnes's  Hotel"  in  the  Fort. 

Lying  at  full  length  upon  a  well  stuffed  mattress, 
covered  with  silk  or  morocco  leather,  supported  by  pil- 
lows, having  at  the  upper  end  a  little  shelf  or  drawer,  in 
which  to  stow  away  any  small  articles,  I  was  greatly 
amused  at  the  strange  sights  and  scenes  that  at  every 
moment  greeted  me. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  the  hotel  the  first  thing  to  be  done 
was  to  get  a  "  peon,"  or  body  servant,  who  could  speak 
English,  and  accompany  me  in  my  peregrinations  through 
the  city. 


XCVII. 

BOMBAY. 

Bombay,  seen  as  you  enter  the  bay  from  the  Arabian 
Sea,  is  extremely  attractive ;  on  either  side  rise  up  magni- 
ficent mountains,  which  mark  the  western  boundaries  of 
the  great  continent  of  India.  Then  comes  the  island  of 
Bombay  with  its  large  fortress,  manned  and  gunned — 
forming  the  inclosure  to  the  town. 


Drifting  About.  307 

I  must  confess  that  I  was  not  particularly  struck  by 
the  appearance  of  the  city,  as  I  took  my  first  evening 
stroll. 

The  "  Town  Hall,"  a  very  imposing  edifice  of  stone,  is 
the  most  notable  of  the  public  buildings,  and  in  the  large 
room  thereof,  capable  of  holding  two  thousand  persons,  I 
gave  my  first  entertainment. 

.  There  is  a  small  theatre  in  an  out  of  the  way  locality, 
but  no  regular  concert  room. 

But  the  fact  is,  the  heat  is  so  great,  that  there  are  only 
about  three  months  in  the  year  at  all  available  for  public 
exhibitions,  and  then,  the  attraction  must  be  somewhat 
novel  and  exciting,  to  insure  a  large  audience. 

Then  the  greater  portion  of  the  inhabitants  reside  at 
Malabar  Hill,  about  four  miles  from  the  town,  and,  as 
they  usually  dine  at  seven  o'clock,  the  disposition  to  stir 
out  after  a  hearty  repast,  is  not  very  great. 

I  was  much  amused  in  going  through  the  bazaars, 
commencing  at  the  lively  esplanade  where  the  fashionables 
take  their  evening  drive,  and  ending  in  the  dark  forests  of 
cocoanuts  at  Mazagon,  where  reside  numbers  of  Euro- 
peans. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  no  place  I  had  as  yet  visited  con- 
tained so  motley  a  population.  Here  then,  passing  and 
repassing,  were  Persians,  Arabs,  Parsees,  Chinese,  Brah- 
mins, half-naked,  Armenians,  Portuguese,  Coolies,  Hindoo 
clerks,  Abyssinians,  Jews,  Moguls;  and  the  variety  of 
languages  spoken  something  fearful  to  contemplate  and 
listen  to. 

The  Roman  Catholic  churches  and  chapels  are  very 
numerous  here.  Mosques  and  Hindoo  temples  are  found 
in  numbers,  and  the  Parsees  or  Fire  Worshippers  have 
their  magnificent  fire  temples  where  the  sacred  fire  is  kept 
up  by  the  priests  all  the  day  long. 


308  Drifting  About. 


XCVIII. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE   CAVES  OF  ELEPHAISTTA. 

I  had  heard  so  much  said  of  the  above  place,  that  I 
resolved  to  be  one  of  a  party  to  pay  them  a  visit,  and  I 
shall  proceed  to  give  a  sketch  of  the  trip  and  place. 

I  have  before  spoken  of  the  beauty  of  the  harbor,  and 
also  of  the  charming  marine  views  that  are  presented 
constantly  to  the  eye  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay ;  studded 
as  it  is  with  picturesque  little  islands,  having  on  one  side 
the  western  Ghauts,  towering  in  the  distance,  and  on  the 
other  the  island  of  Bombay  itself  with  its  dark  fortress, 
wooded  vales  and  hills,  fishing  villages,  half  concealed 
by  groves  of  splendid  cocoanuts,  and  rocky  promontories 
lashed  by  the  sea ;  while  to  give  life  to  the  scene  there 
are  the  numerous  and  diversified  shipping  in  the  harbor, 
with  the  flags  of  every  nation  flying  at  the  peak,  and 
native  craft  of  various  sorts  and  sizes,  gliding  about  under 
sail. 

The  island  of  Elephanta,  containing  one  of  the  largest 
of  those  extraordinary  cave  temples,  that  I  had  heard  so 
much  of,  is  most  romantically  situated,  and  about  seven 
miles  distant  from  Bombay. 

We  reached  it  in  about  an  hour  and  a  half's  sail.  At 
first  it  appeared  very  small,  being  indeed  nothing  more 
than  a  double-peaked,  rocky,  woody  hill,  with  a  narrow 
valley  winding  between  the  peaks ;  and  it  is  only  about 
five  miles  in  circumference ;  but  for  exquisite  beauty  of 
verdure  and  foliage,  and  for  picturesqueness  of  form  and 
position,  the  little  island  is  indeed  a  gem. 

It  struck  me  as  very  strange,  that  not  even  a  jetty 
for  landing  had  been  constructed,  for  the  water  is  too 
shallow  to  permit  a  boat  reaching  the  shore,  and»the  only 
way  I  had  of  getting  to  land  dry-footed  was  on  the  shoul- 
ders of  the  natives,  and  a  comical  sight  we  presented. 
One  fat  English  woman,  the  wife  of  the  skipper  of  a 
British  ship,  presented  a  most  extraordinary  appearance. 
Though  the  day  happened    to   be   quite  sultry,  she  was 


Drifting  About.  309 

encased  in  a  heavy  stuff  woollen  dress,  with  a  fur  tippet 
on  top,  and  a  thick  shawl  over  that,  and  when  mounted 
on  the  back  of  a  sturdy  native,  who  fairly  tottered  beneath 
the  weight  of  this  mountain  of  flesh,  she  resembled  more 
a  huge  balloon,  with  a  couple  of  prime  legs  of  mutton 
dangling  from  the  basket,  than  anything  else  I  could 
think  of;  and  her  feet  stowed  away  in  a  pair  of  heavy 
cloth  boots  almost  reaching  to  the  calf,  were  swinging  to 
and  fro,  as  if  entirely  disconnected  from  the  mass  of  rotun- 
dity above. 

Added  to  this  she  was  screaming  at  the  top  of  her  voice, 
"  'Enry,  'Bnry — this  nasty  wretch  is  squeegeing  me  himpro- 
perly — I  know  he'll  drop  me  hin ! — to  think  of  being 
drowned  hin  this  horfui  bay — Oh  Lor — Oh  Lor — I'm 
fainting — I  know  I  am !" 

Upon  landing  she  became  suddenly  pacified,  and  ma- 
naged with  the  rest  of  us  to  get  up  the  steep  ascent,  once 
apparently  a  stone  staircase,  leading  from  the  beach  to  the 
great  cave.  This  appeared  to  be  an  excavation  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and  the  same  breadth  nearly, 
and  about  twenty  feet  high,  hewn  out  of  a  mass  of  lofty 
rock. 

A  great  big  colossal  three-faced  and  many-armed  bust 
is  carved  out  of  the  rock,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  cave, 
and  there  are  bas-reliefs  of  gigantic  human  figures  in  vari- 
ous parts,  as  well  as  numerous  smaller  figures  of  Gods  and 
Goddesses,  some  with  six  arms,  others  with  monkey  heads, 
some  grasping  warlike  instruments,  some  serpents,  besides 
other  monstrous  devices. 

Elephanta  is  possessed  of  a  natural  cistern,  penetrating 
under  the  rock,  full  of  deliciously  pure  cold  water,  and  I 
found  it  a  most  delightful  beverage. 

The  view  I  got  from  the  cave's  entrance  is  superb — the 
eye  resting  alternately  upon  hills  luxuriously  wooded, 
valleys,  islands,  verdant  and  lovely,  lying  amid  the  calm 
blue  sea. 

Besides  the  principal  cavern,  I  noticed  several  smaller 
and  seemingly  unfinished  caves  close  by ;  but  they  appeared 
possessed  of  little  interest. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  island  stands  the  colossal  figure 
of  an  elephant,  to  which  I  was  informed  the  name  of  the 


310  Drifting  About. 

place  is  generally  ascribed.  This  rude  piece  of  sculpture  is 
now  much  dilapidated — the  head  lying  on  the  gound,  some 
feet  from  the  body — the  legs  sunk  in  the  earth. 

As  to  the  constructors  of  the  Cave  Temples  of  Elephanta, 
conjectures  without  number  have  been  made.  The  opinion 
of  my  Hindoo  guide  on  the  subject,  in  answer  to  my  query, 
was :  "  God  came  doanee  and  made  the  caves  in  one 
nighty." 

There  are  not  many  "  Worshippers"  come  nowadays  to 
the  caves,  I  was  told.  I  noticed  a  few,  however,  and  I 
noticed  more  than  one  of  the  monkey-headed  deities  daubed 
all  over  with  red;  as  I  found  the  custom  with  Hindoo 
images,  and  sacred  emblems  in  India. 

The  sculptures  in  the  caves  have  been  much  disfigured 
by  the  barbarous  practice  of  carrying  and  chipping  off  bits 
of  the  works  as  relics,  and  also  of  cutting  names  and 
remarks  on  the  columns,  and  along  the  sides  of  the  cave. 
Here  was  one  I  made  a  "  note  of" — 0.  S.  Governor,  April, 
1501,  rudely  but  very  deeply  cut  in  the  big  three-faced  bust. 

No  more  of  these  depredations  now  take  place,  for  the 
caves  are  in  charge  of  a  European  sergeant,  living  in  a 
bungalow  close  by — the  only  white  inhabitant  of  the 
island — and  he,  with  his  two  sepoys,  takes  good  care  that 
the  visitors  do  no  damage  to  the  sculptures. 

Upon  reaching  the  city  late  in  the  evening,  we  found  the 
residents  at  the  Fort  in  a  very  excited  state,  at  the  receipt 
of  some  news  just  received  from  Poonah  relating  to  the 
rebellion — at  this  time  raging  at  the  highest  pitch. 


MY  FIRST   CONCERT. 

The  next  day  having  been  selected  for  my  first  appear- 
ance before  an  Eastern  audience,  I  did  not  feel  particularly 
pleasant  at  the  prospect — understanding  that  orders  had 
been  sent  by  the  Commander  of  the  Fort,  for  all  Europeans 
to  keep  the  closest  watch,  and  not  to  leave  their  houses 
after  dark. 

My  "programmes"  of  which  there  were  some  three 
thousand  had  been  distributed  through  the  City  and 
suburbs  three  days  before.     The  three  daily  papers  had 


Drifting  About.  311 

behaved  very  handsomely  in  preliminary  notices,  and  my 
friends  assured  me  that  I  should  be  greeted  with  a  crowded 
auditory. 

The  night  of  the  1st  of  October,  Thursday,  witnessed  my 
debut. 

The  large  room  in  the  Town  Hall  (the  front  of  which 
presented  a  brilliant  appearance,  with  variegated  lights  in 
form  of  flowers,  and  various  devices)  was  filled  to  repletion 
— the  principal  portion  being  Europeans.  The  front  seats 
occupied  by  wealthy  Parsee  merchants — prominent  among 
them  was  the  well  known  Sir  Curstejee  Jejeebhoy,  the 
wealthy  Parsee  baronet,  the  only  instance  I  believe  on 
record  of  the  title  being  borne  by  a  native  of  these  climes. 

The  heat  was  overpowering,  and  the  immense  size  cf  the 
building,  and  the  unpleasant  reverberation  thereof,  made 
the  recitations  indistinct — but  assisted  the  ballad  portion  of 
the  entertainment. 

The  audience  were  (for  a  hot  climate  too !)  enthusiastic  in 
their  applause,  and  every  piece  went  off  most  satisfactorily. 
I  think  during  the  performance  I  changed  my  shirt  three 
times,  and  used  up  half-a-dozen  pocket-handkerchiefs; 
punkas  were  going  over  head — every  window  raised — 
doors  wide  open — yet  the  heat  was  stifling. 

The  papers  on  the  following  day  were  extremely  kind 
and  complimentary.  | 


XCIX. 

BLOWING  AWAY  FROM  THE  GUNS  I 

It  was  during  my  brief  sojourn  in  Bombay,  that  I  wit- 
nessed the  fearful  sight  of  blowing  men  awav  from  the 
guns — and  when  my  readers  are  informed  that  the  evening 
of  the  day  set  apart  by  some  of  the  natives  for  murdering 
the  entire  white  population — certainly  those  residing  in  the 
"  Fort" — was  the  night  selected  for  my  farewell  concert — 
they  will  see  how  narrow  was  the  escape  I 

The  mutinies  then  existing  in  the  upper  provinces  of 
India  spread  until  they  reached  the  City  of  Bombay,  taint- 


312  Drifting  About. 

ing  the  fidelity  of  the  10th  and  11th  Infantry  Regiments, 
and  the  native  Marine  Battalion.  Many  men  of  both  these 
regiments  were  captured  at  a  little  house  near  the  esplanade, 
where  they  were  planning  to  rise  on  the  night  of  the  15th  of 
October,  during  the  native  festival  of  the  "Dewallee,"  and 
murder  every  man,  woman,  and  child,  in  the  city. 

Two  of  these  monsters  were  condemned,  and  sentenced  to 
be  blown  from  the  cannon's  mouth. 

It  appears  then,  that  a  Sepoy  of  the  10th  Kegiment  called 
privately  on  the  Deputy  Commissioner  of  Police,  and  after 
narrating  all  the  details  of  the  plot  in  course  of  maturity, 
offered  to  give  positive  proof  if  the  authorities  would  engage 
a  room  adjoining  that  in  which  the  conspirators  were  to  hold 
their  last  meeting  previous  to  operations. 

Having  been  introduced  to  the  Deputy  Commissioner  of 
Police,  who  spoke  very  good  English,  he  invited  me  (we 
first  having  disguised  ourselves)  to  accompany  him  upon 
the  critical  mission. 

In  a  dingy  native  house,  in  one  of  the  lowest  districts  of 
Bombay,  imagine  some  fifty  natives,  with  a  Satanic  gleam 
of  moody  satisfaction  sparkling  from  their  deep  black  eyes, 
crowded  on  the  dirty  floor  of  a  dark  room. 

A  deathlike  silence  ensues,  as  each  one  turns  to  a  non- 
commissioned officer  who  with  a  quiet  triumph  lays  before 
them  the  full  and  mature  plan. 

"  Hist !"  said  the  officer  to  me — "lie  down — don't  breathe 
— look  through  this  hole ! — see  their  hands  in  each  other's 
— they  are  taking  now  the  most  fearful  oath  known  to  the 
Hindostanee." 

The  bright  eye  of  the  commissioner  peering  through  that 
mysterious  little  chink  in  the  dirty  plaster,  had  pro- 
videntially seen,  heard,  and  found  out  their  plan. 

"  Up  !  up  !"  quickly  whispered  he,  and  flying  with  the 
velocity  of  a  deer — I  following  as  quickly  as  possible — we 
jumped  into  a  buggy,  and  rode  to  the  Headquarters  of  the 
Governor,  Lord  Elphinstone. 

The  officer  translated  to  His  Excellency  the  plan  as  he 
heard  it,  as  follows : 

The  native  soldiery  of  "  regulars "  were  to  disperse  in 
small  bodies  in  different  directions,  and  fire  the  fort, 
murder  all  the  Europeans,  then  take   possession  of  the 


Drifting  About. 


"o 


3>3 


Treasury  aud  Arsenal.  The  M  budmashes"  or  vagabonds 
were  to  be  rewarded  by  having  the  outside  bungalows,  and 
the  English  families  at  Malabar  Hill,  and  other  localities, 
left  entirely  to  their  disposal — there  they  would  find  lots  of 
women  and  children  to  ravish  and  massacre ! 

In  less  time,  it  seems,  than  it  takes  me  to  write  this,  a 
mounted  troop  of  armed  men  flew  across  the  esplanade,  and 
with  a  fearful  sound  and  crash  the  doors  were  burst  open, 
and  the  inmates  one  and  all  pinioned,  and  in  one  hour  after, 
the  cells  of  Fort  St.  George  contained  them !  So  quietly 
and  dexterously  was  this  accomplished,  that  nothing  of  it 
was  known  publicly,  until  the  morning  of  the  day  of  execu- 
tion. 

The  afternoon  of  the  15th  of  October  it  will  be  difficult 
for  me  to  forget. 

I  was  seated  about  one  o'clock  taking  u  tiffin  "  or  lunch, 
in  company  with  Lieut.  Timm,  of  the  E.  I.  C.  service, 
chatting  with  him  upon  the  probabilities  of  a  good  or  bad 
house  for  the  concert  of  the  evening,  when  he  remarked : 
u  I  fear  your  chances  are  rather  slim,  old  fellow,  to-night — 
for  the  fact  is,  it's  my  impression  that  we  shall  all  be  in 
or  near  kingdom-come,  by  to-morrow  morning !" 

I  asked  him  what  he  meant  ?  He  replied  ;  "  The  Com- 
mander-in-chief has  just  telegraphed  from  Poonah  to  the 
Colonel  of  the  regiment  here,  that  the  sentence  is  to  be  car- 
ried into  effect  upon  the  two  ringleaders  this  afternoon, 
and  at  five,  they  are  to  be  *  blown  away.'  "  Adding— "I 
fear  the  natives  will  rise  en  masse,  and  murder  us  all !" 
asking  me,  at  the  same  time,  if  I  had  a  "  Colt  ?" 

I  was  too  sick  at  the  prospect  to  joke  or  I'd  have 
replied,  that  I  would  like  to  run  off  on  the  back  of  one,  if  I 
could !  So  I  replied,  that  I  had  never  carried  any  fire- 
arms in  any  of  my  travels— and  that  I  did  not  even  know 
how  to  load  a  pistol !  "  Well,  well,"  he  replied ;  "  I've  got  a 
six-barrelled  one ;  you  go  on  to  the  esplanade  with  me ; 
we'll  keep  together — and  the  worst  come  to  the  worst,  we'll 
die  together." 

With  these  reflections,  and  giving  up  all  idea  of  ex- 
hibiting" that  night,  we  left  the  Hotel  for  the  scene  of 
death. 

I  have  before  spoken  of  the  beauty  of  the  harbor,  and 

14 


314  Drifting  About. 

the  surroundings  of  this  city,  and  the  magnificence  of  its 
situation. 

The  harbor  is  certainly  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  world, 
the  beauty  and  splendor  of  its  scenery  are  unrivalled,  and 
indeed,  many  think  it  surpasses  the  far-famed  bay  of 
Naples. 

In  what  is  called  the  fair  portion  of  the  year,  the  vision 
is  delighted  amidst  the  fairy  tracery  of  purple  hills,  and 
during  the  "  monsoon"  the  sublimity  of  the  tempest,  and 
the  storm  careering  in  all  the  grandeur  of  the  Torrid  Zone, 
strikes  awe  into  the  inmost  recesses  of  every  heart. 

As  I  gazed,  the  harbor  looked  calm  and  still  as  an  in- 
land sea,  which  had  never  felt  ebb  or  flow  of  tide ;  flags 
of  every  nation  fluttered  in  the  orient  breeze,  and  as  the 
sun  descended  towards  the  horizon,  the  big  city  lay  bathed 
in  a  sea  of  gold,  and  the  glories  of  the  setting  luminary 
were  painted  in  gorgeous  crimson  pictures  on  the  western 
sky. 

The  Ghauts  mountains,  richly  wooded  to  their  base, 
showed  in  the  gilded  atmosphere  their  castellated  summits, 
as  if  upon  their  tops  Titans  had  reared  their  fortresses. 

The  nearer  landscape,  decked  in  milder  beauty,  exhibited 
the  ever  graceful  palm ;  the  hoary  banyan  tree  that  counts 
centuries  as  years  ;  the  stately  nym,  with  leaves  that  whis- 
per to  the  wind  ;  birds  with  the  most  brilliant  and  glitter- 
ing plumage  flitted  about;  the  cooling  gentle  rippling 
waves  of  the  Arabian  Sea,  as  they  kissed  in  broken  mur- 
murs the  yellow  beach,  and  the  hum  of  a  city  numbering 
800,000  souls,  spoke  in  solemn  tones  of  the  dreadful 
example  which  a  mighty  race  was  about  to  exhibit  for  the 
domination  and  the  punishment  of  one  inferior,  treacherous, 
and  cruel. 

I  was  standing  on  the  esplanade,  and  the  dread  hour  of 
five  was  fast  approaching. 

Out  of  every  gateway  from  the  Fort,  natives  and  Euro- 
peans were  thronging  to  the  military  parade  ground,  while 
from  the  native  town,  alley,  street,  and  lane,  disgorged 
their  thousands. 

Every  nation  under  the  sun  had  a  representative  there 
to  witness  the  appalling  spectacle  so  soon  to  occur. 

At  half-past  four  the   troops   composing  the    garrison 


Drifting  About.  315 

moved  to  the  ground.  Of  the  English  soldiery,  there  were 
only  some  200  of  H.  M.'s  95th  regiment,  just  arrived  from 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ;  200  seamen,  American  and  Eng- 
lish, had  hastily  landed  from  the  ships  in  the  harbor,  armed 
with  musket  and  bayonet. 

There  were  also  a  four-gun  battery  of  foot  artillery,  and 
three  guns  manned  by  the  artisans  of  the  Grand  Arsenal. 

The  whole  English  force  numbering  only  500  men — 
against  which  were  some  6000, — near  them" was  a  group 
of  English  and  American  captains  of  merchants'  ships, 
and  numbers  of  the  civilian  population.  The  parade 
formed  three  sides  of  a  square. 

The  base  was  occupied  by  the  artillery  at  the  centre ; — 
the  right  and  left  sides  were  composed  of  the  10th  and  11th 
Sepoy  regiments,  to  which  the  prisoners  belonged. 

Facing  these  Sepoys  were  placed  three  guns,  behind 
which  the  artillerymen  stood,  with  matches  lighted — ready- 
to  meet  with  deadly  ball,  the  first  movement  towards 
revolt. 

Between  the  six  cannons,  three  pointing  obliquely  to 
either  side,  were  placed  at  right  angles  to  the  base  of  the 
square  the  two  guns  assigned  for  the  awful  vengeance  or 
justice  of  the  hour.  Between  and  in  the  rear  of  them, 
were  arranged  the  stern  guard,  and  the  condemned  wretches 
whose  lives  were  so  soon  to  terminate. 

Thanks  to  the  courtesy  of  Brigadier  Shoutt,  commanding 
the  garrison,  and  Captain  William  Walker,  I  was  permitted 
to  take  my  position  within  six  feet  of  the  right  hand  gun, 
and  such  a  spectacle  as  I  then  witnessed  will  live  in  my 
memory  for  ever. 

There  was  no  outward  excitement,  such  as  attends  ordi- 
nary public  executions;  no  swaying  to  and  fro  of  the 
multitude. 

In  all  that  vast  assemblage  of  100,000  human  beings,  a 
whisper  would  have  broken  the  stillness. 

The  English  officers  rode  along  the  lines,  silent  and 
severe  of  aspect.  The  champ  of  their  horses'  bits,  the  clank 
of  their  sabres  seemed  loud  and  troublesome,  as  they  jarred 
the  all-pervading  quiet. 

At  five  o'clock  the  Brigadier  rode  in  front  of  the  death 
gUns — and  for  a  moment  the  silence  of  the  grave  prevailed. 


316 


Drifting  About. 


It  was  only  interrupted,  when  a  voice  audible  to  the  most 
distant  of  the  listening  multitude,  read  in  tones,  clear, 
solemn,  and  firm,  the  sentence  of  the  Court  Martial. 

In  the  language  of  Hindoostan,  it  smote  the  ear  and 
hearts  of  the  convicts. 

Thus  it  was  rendered  to  me : 

u  The  Court,  having  found  you  guilty  of  attending  a 
seditious  meeting  in  Bombay,  and  of  having  made  use  of 
highly  mutinous  and  seditious  language,  evincing  a  trai- 
torous disposition  towards  the  Government,  tending  to 
promote  rebellion  against  the  state,  and  to  subvert  its 
authority  (the  above  being  in  breach  of  the  articles  of  war), 
sentence  you  ■  Drill  Havildar  Syneed  Hoseen'  of  the  Ma- 
rine Battalion,  Native  Infantry,  and  Private  •  Mungall 
Guddrew'  of  No.  8  Company,  10th  Regiment  Native 
Infantry,  to  suffer  death  by  being  blown  away  from  the 
muzzle  of  a  cannon." 


The  two  men  were  then  ordered  to  divest  themselves  of 
their  regimental  jackets.  This  was  quickl}-  done ;  they  were 
then  marched  between  files  of  the  European  guard,  each  to 
a  cannon's  mouth,  and  there  bound  tightly  with  ropes. 


Drifting  About. 


3*7 


The  culprit  "Drill  Havildar"  appeared  composed,  and 
assumed  an  attitude  erect  and  even  dignified,  until  he  found 
himself  in  the  grasp  of  the  artillery-men. 

He  gazed  imploringly  upon  the  Regiment  to  which  he 
had  belonged — expecting,  I  thought,  that  they  might  rush 
to  his  rescue. 

He  made  a  last  appeal ! 

"  Oh !  Sahib !  captain — Sahib !  pardon — dear — dear  cap- 

They  stood  before  him  motionless!  and  that  guilty  breast 
where  sanguinary  resolves  had  arranged  the  midnight 
slaughter  of  defenceless  men,  women,  and  children,  now 
heaved  with  the  mental  agony  of  the  doomed  conspira- 
tor. 

While  the  two  men  were  being  bound,  not  a  syllable  was 
uttered  by  the  assembled  crowd ;  the  suspense  lengthened 
seconds  into  minutes. 

All  eyes  were  turned  for  an  instant  from  the  prisoners  to 
the  Native  Regiments — but  they  moved  not. 

A  rattling  of  steel  along  the  line,  gave  notice  that  the 
Enfield  rifle  was  prepared  to  visit  mutiny  with  slaughter. 

As  the  word  "  Prime"  fell  upon  the  ear,  I  noticed  the 
10th  Native  Infantry  shook,  as  by  an  electric  thrill. 

It  was  now  quite  evident  they  might  have  feared  that 
at  the  next  moment  the  deadly  rifles  might  be  levelled 
against  their  front. 

Simultaneously  with  the  loading  of  the  Infantry,  the 
guns  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  criminals  were  pointed  at 
the  two  native  regiments,  loaded  to  the  muzzle  with  canister 
and  grape — and  there  the  gunners  stood  with  signal  match 
lighted. 

From  the  ramparts  at  the  Fort,  four  sixty-eight  pounders 
looked  threateningly  upon  the  scene. 

When  the  final  summons  was  given — the  handcuffs  and 
uniform  jackets  removed — and  the  English  gunners  were 
lashing  the  traitors,  with  their  backs  to  the  cannon's  mouth, 
it  was  really  fearful  to  notice  the  wild  despairing  expression 
in  the  faces  of  the  doomed. 

There  was  another  pause;  again  the  silence  became 
oppressive — thousands,  and  thousands  of  eyes,  riveted  their 
gaze  upon  the  victims ;  and  the  heart  of  the  strongest  there 


3»8 


Drifliii":  About. 


•fc> 


stirred  more  quickly,  when  arose  from  Captain  Bolton  of 
the  Koyal  Artillery,  the  command — 

"  Let  all  retire  from  the  guns — except  the  men  with  the 
portfires." 

"  At  the  word  '  Fire' — apply  the  match !" 

When  the  word  "  Beady"  was  given  by  Captain  Bolton 
— the  gunners  in  a  moment  lighted  their  matches — the 
prisoners  and  the  artillery-men  stood  immovable  as 
statues. 

The  awful  word  "  Fire"  rang  out  clear  as  a  clarion  note 
— the  hammers  descended  on  the  caps — the  smoke  rolled 
upwards  in  sluggish  clouds — the  cannons  spoke  as  in  tones  of 
thunder,  and  the  air  revealed  by  many  a  ghastly  witness 
that  retribution  had  been  terribly  visited  upon  those 
who  designed  to  revel  and  to  dabble  in  the  blood  of  mas- 
sacre. 

I  did  not  linger  at  the  place  of  sacrifice.  Life  is  of  motley 
garb — mine  has  presented,  the  reader  will  have  by  this 
time  perceived,  the  giddy  and  the  sombre  in  strange  and 
often  painful  association. 

It  seems  to  me  that  Hogarth  did  well  to  represent  beside 
the  coffin  of  the  dead  harlot,  the  thoughtless  boy,  winding 
up  his  top ! 

I  wended  my  way  from  a  scene  of  terror,  to  prepare  for 
one  of  business — though,  as  the  reader  will  imagine,  with  a 
very  sad  heart ! 

My  entertainment  was  advertised  to  "come  off"  this 
night  at  the  Town  Hall — but  what  with  the  frightful  inci- 
dent I  have  just  endeavored  to  describe,  and  the  common 
apprehension  that  an  outbreak  of  the  natives  would  imme- 
diately succeed  it,  I  supposed  my  programme  would  attract 
no  one — and  to  tell  the  truth  when  I  entered  my  "  palke" 
to  be  carried  to  my  hotel,  I  fancied  I  resembled  more  Mr. 
Bob  Acres  than  Sir  Lucius  O'  Trigger!  for  I  fear  it  is 
one  of  my  characteristics,  that  I  would  rather  continue 
this  mortal  existence,  and  forego  posthumous  fame,  than 
to  fall  in  the  noblest  battle,  and  live  in  history  ! 

There's  no  disputing  about  tastes  ! 

To  my  great  surprise,  however,  there  was  a  crowded 
house — among  the  number  a  large  sprinkling  of  Parsees 
and  wealthy  Hindoo  merchants.     This  too,  while  on  the 


Drifting  About.  319 

outskirts  of  the  trembling  city,  many  a  father  kept  mid- 
night vigil  with  belted  sword,  and  revolver  clutched,  fear- 
ing the  desolating  storm  of  native  revenge. 

The  M  inhumanity,"  as  it  is  called,  of  the  above  mode  of 
dealing  with  this  miserable  class  of  human  beings,  has 
been  so  often  referred  to,  the  mode  of  punishment  being 
deemed  in  the  highest  degree  "  barbarous,"  I  shall  simply 
upon  this  subject  give  one  extract  from  a  letter,  handed  me 
to  read  in  California,  prior  to  its  being  sent  to  England,  by 
which  the  fiendish  atrocities  practised  by  these  brutes  will 
more  fully  appear. 

The  commercial  letter  of  Messrs.  Mackay  and  Co.,  dated 
Calcutta,  18th  of  June,  describes  some  of  the  atrocities  com- 
mitted by  the  revolted  troops  in  various  parts  of  the  Bengal 
presidency : 

14  Imagine  the  father  of  a  family,  bound  hand  and  foot, 
compelled  to  witness  the  dishonor  of  his  wife  by — we  are 
afraid  to  say  how  many  of  these  fiendish  crew ;  and  then, 
when  the  poor  creature  was  almost  dead  from  the  effect  of 
their  brutal  assault,  they  cut  her  across  the  abdomen,  and 
drew  forth  an  unborn  babe,  and  dashed  it  against  the 
ground,  and  then  hung  the  lifeless  remains  around  the  neck 
of  the  manacled  and  distracted  father.  The  villains,  still 
thinking  something  wanting  to  aggravate  his  feelings  of 
horror  and  dismay,  severed  the  head  from  the  body  of  the 
mother,  and  bound  this  also  around  his  neck.  Not  yet 
satisfied  with  their  dreadful  work,  they  seized  the  poor 
man's  two  remaining  children,  infants  of  three  and  four 
years  old,  killed  them,  cut  off  their  heads,  and  strung  them 
also  around  his  neck,  taunting  him  with  all  the  obscene 
language  the  native  dialect  so  readily  furnishes,  until  they 
thought  he  was  dying,  and  when,  fearing  they  might  lose 
the  last  opportunity  of  torturing  the  man,  a  dagger  was 
plunged  into  his  heart,  and  he  died,  with  the  heads  of  all 
those  he  held  most  dear  on  this  earth  resting  lifelessly  upon 
his  breast.  We  have  related  but  one  instance  only  amongst 
the  many  that  have  come  to  our  knowledge— whereas 
almost  every  act  of  these  villains  has  been  marked  with 
something  equally  horrible." 

The  principal  public  buildings  within  the  town  of  Bom- 
bay, are  the  Town  Hall,  the  Docks,  the  Government  House, 


320  Drifting  About. 

two  churches,  the  Mint,  the  barracks,  and  the  Castle,  con- 
taining the  Arsenal. 

All  these  are  on  a  large  and  handsome  scale.  The  pri- 
vate residences  are  ornamented  with  flat  roofs,  terraces, 
balustrades,  and  garden  flats.  The  Governor  resides  at 
Malabar  Hill,  or  Point,  a  bungalow  erected  upon  a  rock 
projecting  into  the  sea  at  the  extreme  westerly  point  of  the 
island* 

As  I  have  before  said,  the  scenery  in  and  about  the 
Island  of  Bombay  is  enchantingly  beautiful,  because  of  the 
admixture  of  rice  plains,  gardens,  handsome  bungalows,  and 
wooded  hills,  with  occasional  peeps  of  the  sea  shore,  and 
the  open  main,  or  landlocked  bays.  Some  of  the  little 
villages  near  the  city  are  densely  planted  with  cocoanut 
groves. 


A  WORD  AT  PARTING. 

The  hospitality,  kind-heartedness,  and  generosity  with 
which  a  stranger  is  received  in  India,  are  well  known. 

In  returning  thanks  at  this  great  distance,  to  those  who 
received  me  so  cordially  (and  especially  to  my  brethren  of 
the  masonic  order,  here  and  in  Calcutta,  I  make  my  most 
affectionate  acknowledgments),  I  cannot  resist  mentioning 
Mr.  Mawson  and  Mr.  Pym  of  the  Gazette,  Captain  "Wm. 
Wacker,  Dr.  Buist,  Sir  Cursteje  Jamsteje,  Mr.  George 
Craig  of  the  Telegraph  and  Courier,  among  those  most 
kind,  and  who  did  everything  in  their  power  to  render 
my  sojourn  agreeable. 

Having  given  my  farewell  entertainment,  I  bade  goodbye 
to  my  friends,  and  sailed  in  the  American  bark  Sabine, 
Captain  Thos.  H.  Hendee,  for  Calcutta. 

On  the  morning  of  November  2d,  1857,  the  pilot  left  us, 
and  we  stood  out  for  sea.  We  have  for  passengers  the 
supercargo,  Mr.  T.  S.  Tredick  (whose  father  owns  the 
ship),  Major  Smeaton  of  the  Bengal  army,  a  Mr.  Briggs, 
and  myself. 

After  my  experiences  on  board  the  bark  "  Fortune,"  I 


Drifting  About.  321 

felt  a  little  cautious  in  the  selection  of  a  ship  in  which  to 
make  another  voyage ;  as  this  was  the  only  vessel  up  for 
Calcutta,  I  had  no  alternative  but  to  take  passage  in  her, 
and  I  am  happy  to  say,  a  more  delightful  time  upon  the 
deep  blue  sea  I  never  passed.  The  captain,  a  most  de- 
lightful fellow,  and  every  inch  a  sailor,  did  everything  to 
make  our  time  pass  agreeably,  and  though  the  most  an- 
noying succession  of  calms  prevailed,  the  time  passed  most 
agreeably,  and  I  almost  regretted  when  on  the  thirtieth 
day  we  reached  the  Ganges,  and  took  on  board  a  pilot. 


CI. 

CALCUTTA. 

I  WAS  perfectly  charmed  with  the  exquisite  scenery  on 
the  banks  of  this  river. 

Mr.  I.  H.  Stockqueler,  in  his  interesting  book  upon 
British  India,  remarks :  "  It  is  astonishing  that  so  little 
has  ever  been  said  and  written  about  the  extraordinary 
beauty  of  the  banks  of  the  Hooghly,  in  the  environs  of 
Calcutta.  The  scenery  on  either  side  of  the  river  is 
charming.  The  mariner  who  has,  during  a  long  period, 
gazed  upon  nothing  excepting  sky  and  water,  must  fancy 
that  Paradise  has  opened  upon  his  wondering  eyes.  While 
the  upper  provinces  of  India,  though  boasting  grander 
features  (the  Hooghly  being  the  most  sublime  object  in  the 
picture  we  are  contemplating),  present,  at  various  seasons 
of  the  year,  very  different  aspects,  Bengal  is  always  the 
same.  The  moisture  of  its  climate,  and  the  nature  of  the 
soil,  concur  in  preserving  an  eternal  verdure,  which  is 
only  to  be  seen  during  the  season  of  the  rains  in  the  more 
aria1  districts.  Even  in  the  hottest  weather,  when  the 
thermometer  is  up  to  130°,  perhaps  for  weeks  together, 
and  when  the  sun  pours  down  so  fierce  a  flood  of  light 
that  it  would  seem  as  if  its  scorching  influence  were 
sufficient  to  dry  up  every  blade  of  grass,  the  whole  earth 
is  covered  witfi  a  rich  carpet,  and  the  moment  that  the 

14* 


322  Drifting  About. 

sun  sets,  a  refreshing  coolness  fills  the  air,  and  the  eyes 
revel  upon  scenery  of  the  richest  luxuriance. 

Calcutta,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  "  City  of 
Palaces,"  is  looked  upon  as  the  metropolis  of  British 
India. 

As  I  caught  the  first  glimpse  of  it  from  a  beautiful 
bend  in  the  river,  known  as  "  Garden  Keach,"  as  our 
vessel  slowly  proceeded,  the  effect  was  of  picturesque  and 
matchless  beauty. 

About  half  a  mile  from  the  anchorage  of  the  shipping, 
the  whole  splendor  of  the  city  at  once  bursts  upon  the 
sight. 

The  vast  domes  of  the  Government  House,  with  its 
gates  so  superbly  ornamented,  the  lofty  spires  of  the  nume- 
rous churches,  numbers  of  public  offices,  magnificent  pri- 
vate mansions,  all  faced  with  the  purest  white  stucco, 
gracefully  relieved  by  green  Venetian  blinds  ;  numberless 
vast  and  handsomely  built  landing-places,  the  bishop's 
college,  with  its  gothic  towers,  while  we  seemed  surround- 
ed by  a  perfect  forest  of  noble  masts,  of  every  size  and 
shape,  green  and  luxuriantly  fitted  up;  barges  lying  idly 
for  hire,  with  their  bright  yellow  rooms,  altogether  pre- 
sented a  picture  of  life  and  surpassing  beauty. 

Upon  landing  I  found  that  between  Fort  William  and 
the  tower,  about  opposite  the  anchorage,  there  is  a  beauti- 
ful ami  well  watered  plain,  called  a  Maidaun,  somewhat 
similar  to  the  esplanade  in  Bombay,  on  one  side  of  which 
runs  an  aqueduct,  and  on  the  other  side  a  handsome  wide 
road,  which  every  evening  is  crowded  with  every  imagina- 
ble style  of  vehicles,  and  numbers  of  equestrians. 

I  made  my  way  to  Spence's  Hotel,  and  having  met  Mr. 
Henry  Coleman,  mentioned  in  my  Australian  notes,  he 
proceeded  to  advise  me  in  reference  to  my  opening  night. 

At  Spence's  I  was  furnished  with  a  large  airy  room, 
and  capital  fodder  (all  excepting  the  butter,  a  thing  you 
carnt  get  for  any  money  in  India!)  for  one  hundred  rupees 
(fifty  dollars)  a  month.  I  had  scarcely  taken  a  seat  at  the 
table  when  my  eye  rested  upon  an  old  Californian,  Aza 
Marvin,  of  the  firm  of  Marvin  and  Hitchcock,  the  San 
Francisco  pioneer  book-store  ;  and  here  I  must  also  return 
him  my  thanks  for  his  civilities  and  attentions.    Flashing  by 


Drifting  About.  323 

me  on  a  high  mettled  charger,  dressed  in  the  cool  and 
snowy  habiliments  of  the  time,  and  looking  handsome  and 

bronzed  with  travel,  was  Charley  S one  of  the  lucky 

bankers  of  San  Francisco,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Thebes ; 
while  lying  at  anchor  was  the  stately  steamship  "  Golden 
Fleece,"  then  commanded  by  my  kinsman  Captain  John 
Vine  Hall. 


CII. 


I    MEET    WITH    CAPTAIN    HALL    AFTER    AN"    ABSENCE    OP 
TWENTY  YEARS! 

I  WAS  sitting  quietly  in  my  room,  reading  the  morning 
paper,  when  I  received  a  note  from  Captain  Hall,  request- 
ing my  immediate  presence  on  board  his  steamship. 

The  meeting  was  most  cordial,  and  questions  flew  thick 
and  fast,  as  to  my  doings  since  as  a  small  boy  I  parted 
from  him  at  the  London  Coffee  House  in  1837 ! 

He  was  about  leaving  for  England,  via  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  and  though  the 
temptation  to  reach  England  by  that  trip  was  verjr  great, 
my  friend  offering  me  a  passage,  I  had  made  up  my  mind 
to  take  the  overland  route;  and  accordingly  could  not 
avail  myself  of  his  kindness. 

On  the  17th  December,  I  gave  my  first  concert  at  the 
Masonic  Hall,  Calcutta,  to  one  of  the  largest  and  decidedly 
most  enthusiastic  and  aristocratic  audiences,  I  have  ever 
had  the  honor  of  appearing  before. 

Now,  in  these  pages,  I  have  been  pretty  frank  and  com- 
municative with  my  readers,  and  if  I  had  a  chance  to  ring 
in  a  laugh  at  my  own  expense,  I  have  done  so,  and  as^ 
they  have  been  informed  that  the  result  of  my  successful' 
and  brilliant  career  in  the  colonies  of  Australia  was  a 
profit  of  £1.10  currency,  or  $7.50  American  coin— so  shall 
they  know  the  receipts  of  my  entertainments  during  my 
brief  residence  in  India. 

In  Bombay  I  gave  four  ballad  concerts  and  readings, 
total  receipts  4931  rupees.     In  Calcutta  I  gave  one  * 


324 


Drifting  About. 


concert  and  reading,  receipts  1285  rupees.  In  Howiah,  a 
country  village  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Hooghly,  one 
entertainment,  receipts  450  rupees,  total  66Q6  rupees,  or 
«£(>66.6 — thirty-five  hundred  dollars  American  currency — 
and  I  think,  my  friends  on  this  side  of  the  water  will 
agree  with  me  that  for  six  entertainments  this  is  a  pretty 
fair  result. 

The  reader  inquires  about  the  expenses — I  think  £200 
will  cover  them,  so  that  I  had  about  two  thousand  dollars 
clear. 

And  now,  as  I  am  about  closing  the  brief  account  of 
my  career  in  India,  I  wish  to  say  a  word  or  two  in  refer 
ence  to  my  first  and  last  appearance  in  this  beautiful  city. 

The  Masons  very  kindly  gave  me  the  use  of  their  hall, 
and  in  every  way  were  most  obliging.  To  Messrs.  Burk- 
ingyoing,  the  music-sellers,  I  am  indebted  for  many  acts 
of  courtesy,  and  for  the  use  of  a  very  fine  Erard's  piano. 

They  sold  also  over  four  hundred  tickets  at  two  and  a 
half  dollars  each,  more  by  two  hundred  than  they  ever 
disposed  of  before  for  any  entertainment. 

The  papers  not  only  were  very  generous  in  the  prelimi- 
nary notices,  but  upon  the  day  after  the  concert  the  three 
dailies,  entirely  unsolicited,  and  without  my  being  per- 
sonally acquainted  with  either  of  the  editors,  came  out  in 
the  most  enthusiastic  manner,  relating  to  my  appearance. 


Drifting  About.  325 


cm. 


The  streets,  private  houses,  and  hotels  in  this  city  are 
greatly  superior  to  those  of  Bombay. 

The  Auckland,  almost  as  large  as  the  Metropolitan  in 
[New  York,  and  Spence's  are  the  best. 

The  expense  of  living  does  not  exceed  100  rupees  or  $50 
a  month,  including  bed-room  and  three  meals  a  day,  with- 
out wine. 

The  Town-Hall  is  a  very  handsome  and  spacious  edifice, 
where  the  public  meetings  and  dinners  are  given.  The 
Courts  of  Justice,  the  Supreme  Court,  the  Bengal  Club, 
the  Markets,  the  Government  House,  and  the  Racket  Court, 
while  the  steeple  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  a  really  beautiful 
structure,  reminds  the  looker-on  of  its  excellent  founder, 
the  Right  Reverend  Bishop  Wilson.  Street  after  street  is 
filled  with  stately  buildings,  showing  the  commercial  impor- 
tance of  this  city,  as  well  as  the  ample  means  of  the  inhabi- 
tants and  the  liberal  spirit  which  has  contributed  to  the 
foundation  of  its  many  public  institutions,  or  the  tolerance 
of  its  people  in  religious  concerns. 

In  the  Metcalf  Hall  (a  splendid  building)  is  a  very  large 
public  library,  the  Museum,  and  Library  of  the  Agricultu- 
ral and  Asiatic  Society ;  the  Custom  House,  the  Mint,  a 
magnificent  structure  with  gardens  in  front,  Roman  Catho- 
lic and  Protestant  churches,  Hindoo  Pagodas  and  Mahome- 
dan  Mosques,  Medical  Colleges,  Masonic  Lodges,  number- 
less shops,  filled  with  the  richest  articles  of  merchandise, 
whose  gay  windows  and  attractive  show-cases  dazzle  the 
eye  or  tickle  the  fancy  as  if  walking  in  Broadway  or  the 
Boulevards,  all  impart  an  importance  and  grandeur  to  this 
beautiful  city. 

Recently,  in  Calcutta;  the  electric  telegraph  has  been 
introduced,  and  it  was  found  most  useful  in  the  late 
rebellion. 

Here  also  flourish  a  race-course  and  a  cricket  ground, 


326  Drifting  About. 

and  the  lovers  of  archery,  rackets,  and  of  aquatic  sports 
have  their  respective  "  head-quarters." 

And  now,  having  taken  my  passage  in  the  Peninsula  and 
Oriental  Company's  steamship  Candia,  Captain  Woodgate 
(a  splendid  fellow,  by  the  way),  for  Aden,  I  shall  say  good- 
by  to  my  hospitable  friends  in  this  place,  and  wishing 
them  a  "  Merry  Christmas"  and  a  "  Happy  New  Year," 
proceed  upon  my  rambles. 

CIV. 

VOYAGE   FROM  CALCUTTA  TO   SUEZ. 

In  the  first  place,  then,  to  fully  appreciate  the  luxurious- 
ness  of  travel  on  the  "deep  blue  sea,"  you  must  take  pas- 
sage in  one  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company's 
steamships. 

Large,  airy  state  rooms,  bathing  rooms,  wines  and  liquors 
of  all  kinds,  ad  libitum,  obliging  and  attentive  waiters, 
tables  most  sumptuously  supplied,  and  the  officers,  from  the 
highest  to  the  most  unimportant,  gentlemanly,  considerate, 
and  obliging. 

Then  there  is  but  "one  class  "  of  passengers — no  "steer- 
age," no  intermediate — and,  as  a  general  rule,  the  time 
passes  most  delightfully. 

I  paid  1,050  rupees  for  my  through  ticket,  or  about 
$600.  This,  for  a  voyage  of  thirty  days,  appears  rather 
expensive,  but  the  trip  is  well  worth  it,  and  will  ever 
remain  in  my  memory  as  the  most  delightful  of  my  "  jour- 
neyings." 

On  the  fourth  day  we  arrived  at  Madras. 


cv. 

MADRAS. 

We  anchored  in  the  Eoads.  It  is  very  dangerous  to  land 
here.  A  tremendous  surf  rolls  towards  the  shore  with  such 
fearful  force,  at  certain  seasons,  that  the  greatest  care  has 


Drifting  About.  327 

to  be  taken  by  the  boatmen,  or  they  must  inevitably  be 
swamped. 

A  very  few  hours  on  shore  will  suffice  to  instruct,  amuse, 
or  charm  you. 

The  Madras  houses,  resting  upon  the  sea-shore,  are  of 
white  and  pale  yellow  stucco  with  Venetian  blinds.  The 
total  absence  of  all  shade  is  extremely  offensive  to  the 
eye. 

We  ordered  dinner  at  one  of  the  hotels,  and  started  to 
see  the  sights.  Went  to  the  Hindoo  school  and  the  place 
where  they  burn  the  dead ;  returning,  went  into  the  Madras 
Club,  where  I  was  kindly  received  by  the  members. 

Found  the  Golden  Fleece  steamship  here. 

Two  days  more  brought  us  to  the  Island  of  Ceylon. 
Went  on  shore  at  Point  de  Galle. 

After  rambling  about  for  several  hours  at  the  Island  of 
Ceylon,  picking  oranges  from  the  trees,  inhaling  the  balmy 
atmosphere,  my  olfactories  tickled  by  the  fragrance  of  the 
spicy  groves,  and  causing  me  to  sing  (to  myself)  the  Mis- 
sionary Hymn,  we  started  once  again  for  Aden. 


CVL 

ADEN. 

Arriving  here  at  12  a.m.,  in  seven  days. 

Friday,  8ih  January. — I  went  on  shore.  A  strange  look- 
ing place,  sure  enough,  is  this !  Called,  I  heard,  the  Gib- 
raltar of  Arabia ! 

Desolation,  decay,  and  ruin  seemed  to  reign  supreme. 
Rocks  barren,  immense  plains  of  sand,  no  sign  of  animated 
nature,  and  no  sound  save  the  incessant  "  braying  of  your 
donkey  greets  your  ear." 

The  instant  you  land,  an  Arab  horse  or  donkey  is  brought 
to  you  ;  upon  one  of  these  docile  animals  I  was  gently  car- 
ried to  the  city  (?)  called  Conception,  some  four  miles  off, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  being  chased  by  some  Arabs  (I 
having  for  the  time  iost  my  companions),  who,  doubtless, 
observing  the  shaky  style  of  both  rider  and  jackass,  thought 


328  Drifting  About. 

the  capture  both  desirable  and  easy,  I  had  a  very  agreeable 
and  funny  trip  of  it. 


CVIL 

SUEZ. 

On  the  15th  January  we  arrived  at  Suez,  not  a  very 
inviting  locality  externally.  On  shore  everything  denotes 
wretchedness  and  poverty. 

The  houses,  built  of  large  lumps  of  rock,  cemented  by 
mud  or  clay,  mixed  with  water  and  sand ;  the  inhabitants, 
looking  uncomfortable  and  dirty,  Arabs,  Egyptians,  and 
Turks  ;  caravans  of  camels  loading  for  Cairo,  donkeys  all 
ready  for  going,  females  veiled  and  masked,  present  a  scene, 
to  say  the  least,  novel  and  exciting. 

The  hotel  here  was  miserable,  and  heartily  glad  was  I, 
after  drawing  lots  for  a  seat  in  the  Van  to  carry  us  partly 
over  the  desert,  to  find  that  at  six  we  were  to  start. 

These  "  Vans "  are  a  sort  of  two-wheeled  carriage,  and 
carry  six  inside  passengers — no  springs,  no  ventilation,  no 
room. 

In  the  one  in  which  I  had  a  seat,  a  fat  woman  was  my 
vis-d-vis;  her  weight  (some  400)  was  too  much  for  the  con- 
cern, and  down  we  all  came. 

The  scene  was  most  comical,  the"  heat  was  great,  the 
dust  greater,  and  the  delay  annoying ! 

Some  hours  were  consumed  in  repairing  our  conveyance, 
and  about  midnight  we  found  ourselves  in  the  middle  of 
the  desert,  where  the  "snorting"  of  a  great  big  steam- 
engine  gave  notice  that  the  "  cars "  were  in  readiness  to 
convey  us  the  balance  of  our  journey. 

Yes !  after  having  for  a  while  anchored  where  the  Israel- 
ites crossed  the  Red  Sea,  I  found  myself  on  the  spot  where 
"  Joseph  and  his  brethren  "  swapped  coats,  or  where  Moses 
and  Sons  (now  of  Iioundsditch  in  the  city  of  London) 
rested  with  their  camels,  jumping  into  a  superb  railroad 
car  in  which  to  make  my  entry  into  the  far-famed  city  of 
Cairo  I  and  the  first  view  of  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt. 


Drifting  About.  329 

In  1856,  Mr.  George  Francis  Train,  in  his  "Young 
America,"  says  :  "  A  telegraphic  wire  has  been  ordered,  a 
railroad  is  under  way,  and  shortly  the  whistling  of  a  loco- 
motive will  startle  the  Bedouin  from  his  sleep  on  his  sandy 
pillow,  and  the  rattling  of  a  railway  train  across  the  bleached 
skeletons  of  the  ass,  the  camel,  the  mule,  will  prove  the 
sweetest  of  all  sounds  to  those  poor  beasts  of  burden,  whose 
labors  have  been  so  greatly  lessened  by  the  genius  and  the 
ingenuity  of  civilized  man." 

On  the  16th  January,  1858,  I  arrived  in  the^r^  train  of 
cars,  and  with  lighted  flambeaux  was  escorted  to  a  really 
palatial-looking  building  called  the  British  Hotel. 


CVIIL 

SHEPARD's  BRITISH  HOTEL. 

The  largest  and  best  hotel  in  Egypt.  The  landlord 
has  realized  a  fortune  by  his  twelve  or  thirteen  years'  "  keep- 
ing a  hotel,"  and  is  consequently  somewhat  indifferent  to 
the  comforts  of  his  guests.  All  is  (or  was)  confusion,  dis- 
order, and  Egyptian !  though  from  the  advertise- 
ment on  the  back  of  his  "card"  (and  which  I  subjoin) 
you  would  expect  the  comforts  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel 
in  New  York,  or  Long's  in  Bond  street. 


THE  BRITISH  HOTEL. 
CAIRO. 
Baths.  Billiards. 

Within  five  minutes1  walk  of  the  Railroad  Station. 
The  proprietor  of  this  well  known  establishment,  begs 
to  call  the  attention  of  the  Nobility,  Gentry,  and  Travellers 
in  general,  to  the  recent  alterations  and  improvements  in 
this  Hotel,  which,  combined  with  every  comfort  and  con- 
venience, attention  and  moderate  charges,  he  hopes  will 
obtain  a  continuance'  of  the  support  he  has  so  long  enjoyed. 
The  wines,  spirits,  ales,  &c,  are  of  the  first  quality. 


330  Drifting  About. 

How  this  announcement  would  have  astonished,  and  per- 
haps delighted  the  Egyptians  of  other  days. 

We  found  the  hotel  pretty  full,  and  comfortable  apart- 
ments somewhat  difficult  to  obtain. 

Took  an  early  stroll  through  the  city,  reminding  me  very 
much  of  Constantinople  and  Smyrna,  in  the  narrowness 
and  dirt  of  the  badly  paved  streets,  and  motley  and  gro- 
tesque appearance  of  the  people. 

Swift  Arab  horses,  slow  and  sure-footed  donkeys,  with 
now  and  then  a  camel,  standing  in  front  of  dirty  bazaars  or 
trotting  by  me,  with  their  living  freight,  passed  and 
repassed  ;  my  guide  directing  my  attention  first  to  the  cita- 
del mosque,  where  were  the  tombs  of  Mehemet  Ali,  called 
the  most  magnificent  in  Egypt.  I  got  on  the  back  of  one 
of  these  mu-ils,  and  proceeded  on  my  explorations. 


CIX. 

EGYPT. 

My  reminiscences  of  Egypt  must  necessarily  be  very 
meagre  and  limited,  on  account  of  the  limited  period  of  my 
sojourn  in  that  mysterious  land. 

But  managing  to  remain  long  enough  to  see  the  Pyra- 
mids, Pompey's  pillar,  and  threading  my  way  to  Cleopatra's 
needle,  besides  being  one  of  the  pioneers  of  travel  in  the 
first  train  of  cars  that  puffed  and  snorted  its  way  across  the 
desert,  I  feel  a  pleasure  in  devoting  a  page  or  so,  worked 
up  from  stray  notes  made  here  and  there  in  Alexandria. 

It  is  all  very  well,  and  perhaps  easy  for  that  matter,  to 
write  learned  pages  about  Egypt.  Library  shelves  fairly 
groan  with  ponderous  works  on  the  subject,  from  which  it 
were  easy  to  copy;  and  to  tell  the  truth,  there  is  really 
something  so  mysterious,  and  almost  sacred  about  the 
country,  that  it  is  difficult  to  resist  the  temptation  of  bur- 
nishing up  one's  school-boy  teachings;  but  as  my  readers 
have  long,  ere  this,  become  familiar  with  my  "  style,"  they 

i 


Drifting  About  33] 

will  be  spared  the  infliction  of  any  very  learned  disqui- 
sitions upon  the  subject. 

The  climate  here,  it  seemed  to  me,  was  most  beautiful 
and  inspiriting,  and  yet  it  appeared  that  the  moon  and  the 
stars  shone  forth  with  a  calm  and  serene  beauty  scarcely 
seen  by  me  before,  so  exquisite  was  the  scene  on  the  night 
of  my  arrival ;  and  then  was  it  not  worth  the  voyage  to  see 
the  Pyramids  bathed  in  the  soft  moonlight  ? 

As  I  walked  through  some  of  the  graveyards — of  which 
there  appeared  to  be  numbers  in  Cairo — they  seemed  to  me 
to  be  filled  with  the  most  delicious  flowers;  and  I  was 
informed  that  the  Egyptians  have  the  greatest  affection  for 
the  simple  and  beautiful  in  nature — a  little  flower  having 
more  attraction  for  them  than  even  an  elaborate  piece  of 
machinery,  or  a  sculptured  work  of  marble.  And  after  all, 
is  this  such  poor  philosophy  ?  Isn't  the  heart  made  better 
by  it? 

"  Behold  the  lilies  of  the  field  !  they  toil  not,  neither  do  they  spin  ; 
and  yet  I  say  unto  you,  that  Solomon,  in  all  his  glory,  was  not  arrayed 
like  one  of  these." 

I  love  flowers ! — sweet  is  the  ministry  of  even  the  hum- 
blest. We  give  them  to  the  youthful  bride  ;  we  lay  them 
upon  the  pillow  of  the  dead  and  upon  their  coffins,  and 
plant  them  beside  their  graves ;  they  are  strewed  in  the 
pathway  of  the  returning  hero ;  and  when  festal  days  come 
round,  they  are  twined  into  bright  and  fragrant  garlands — 
and  I  say  there  is  meaning,  heart-meaning  in  their  lan- 
guage. 

I  notice  groups  of  Egyptian  men  and  women  resting  by 
the  graves  of  the  keepers,  and  strewing  upon  and  about 
them  fresh  and  fragrant  flowers.  Tis  a  pretty  fancy,  at 
any  rate,  for  they  think  the  spirits  of  the  loved  and  lost 
linger  around — and  perhaps  they  do — who  can  tell  I 

In  all  lands,  and  at  all  times,  I  think  this  notion— if  I 
may  so  call  it — has  had  a  more  or  less  strong  hold  upon  the 
human  mind.  The  Divine  Teacher  himsolf  said  of  them  : 
"  Are  they  not  all  ministering  spirits  sent  forth  to  minister" 
to  us? 

Perhaps  some  day  we  may  better  appreciate  this  unseen 
agency,  and  not  think  so  disparagingly  of  the  Easterns  for 


332  Drifting  About. 

it.  And  I  think  it  would  be  a  great  deal  better  to  believe 
in  the  "  ghost  stories"  of  old  time  nurseries,  than  not  to 
believe  in  incorporeal  presences  ;  restrained  by  Divine  reve- 
lation, it  tends,  I  doubt  not,  to  un materialize  our  natures. 

Say  what  we  may  of  Mahomedism,  it  seemed  to  me  that 
there  were  some  touching,  nay,  poetic  beauties  in  it.  It  is 
a  calm,  contemplative,  and  almost  unchanging  faith,  a  great 
contrast  to  the  Kaleidoscope-"  isms"  of  the  present  age, 
where,  in  almost  every  street,  city,  town,  village,  and  ham- 
let, we  find  places  where  people  of  all  kinds  of  differing 
creeds  meet,  each  having  a  different  way  of  getting  to  hea- 
ven— each  claiming  to  be  the  bright,  particular,  and  only 
path  to  the  heavenly  life. 

Another,  to  me,  inexpressibly  redeeming  grace,  has  this 
same  Mohammedism — tlie  grace  of  personal  cleanliness!  for 
it  seemed  to  me  they  were  washing  and  bathing  themselves 
all  the  time,  and  in  clear  running  water ;  they  have  five 
daily  ablutions,  I  was  informed. 

And  now,  winding  up  my  short  dissertation  upon  the 
disciples  of  Mahomet,  1  will  inform  the  reader,  that  in  the 
matter  of  "  wives"  (and  I  tell  you  I  got  a  peep  through 
the  bars  at  a  lot  of  beauties  that  had  just  arrived  from  the 
far-off  Circassia) — the  Mussulman  is  not  on  very  short 
allowance ;  for  he  is  permitted  by  his  religion,  four  of  the 
"second  sex,"  as  Miss  Harriet  Martineau  styled  them — and 
as  far  as  his  religious  actions  go,  it  is  briefly  this:  that 
prayer  takes  the  soul  half-way  to  heaven— fasting  to  the 
door  of  that  abode — and  charity  and  benevolence  take  him 
in ;  and  I  think  there  have  been  worse  platforms  than  this. 


ex. 

SOMETHING  ABOUT  THE    PYRAMIDS. 

It  was  a  bright  delicious  morning  when  we  started  for 
the  Pyramids ;  and  by  the  way,  no  pen  can  describe  the 
beauty  of  the  early  mornings  here ;  the  heavy  dews  had 
refreshed  the  earth  and  laid  the  dust — the  latter  the  great- 
est annoyance  in  Egypt. 


Drifting  About. 


333 


I  had  enjoyed  one  of  Shepard's  gorgeous  baths,  and 
refreshed  the  inner  man  with  a  breakfast  fit  for  an  Empe- 
ror ;  what  we  had  before  breakfast  it  may  not  be  necessary 
to  particularize. 

My  fat  old  friend,  Captain  M ,  who  is  an  orthodox 

oracle  in  such  matters,  recommended  it,  and  we  gracefully 
submitted  to  the  prescription. 

In  all  strange  lands  the  recommendation  of  an  old  and 
observant  resident,  especially  in  such  matters,  is  not  to  be 
slightly  regarded ;  if  it  had  been  in  any  other  place  than 
poetic  Egypt,  the  dose  might  have  been  called  the  unpoetic 
name  of  gin-cock-tail.  At  all  events,  it  was  not  at  all  "  bad 
to  take,"  as  the  jolly  party  unanimously  decided. 

By  the  way,  this  fat  friend,  the  old  Captain,  has  taught 
the  folks  there  a  good  deal  about  American  drinks,  and 
from  what  I  saw,  I  should  sav  they  take  very  kindly  to 
them. 


Although  a  slight  digression,  and  in  these  short  waifs 
and  strays  of  my  Egyptian  recollections  digressions  may 
be  pardonable,  I  cannot  help  noticing  Mrs.  Walker's  con- 
fectionery establishment,  for  it  is  the  rendezvous  of  all  the 
American  and  English  travellers. 


334  Drifting  About. 

A  man  may  as  well  say  he  has  not  been  in  the  Pyramids 
as  not  to  "  Widow  Walker's." 

Facing  the  Esbekia,  one  of  the  most  delightful  public 
walks  in  the  two  hemispheres,  her  shop,  as  the  English 
call  it,  is  quite  an  attraction. 

I  dined  at  her  hospitable  table  one  day,  and  a  right  jolly 
time  we  had  of  it.  First  of  all  "Stoughton  and  sherry," 
then  soups,  fish,  flesh,  fowl,  fruits  of  every  conceivable 
variety.  With  the  exception  of  our  party,  there  were  not 
half-a-dozen  Americans  in  the  city  ;  of  these,  two  or  three 
are  missionaries,  and  this  in  a  place  having  400,000  popu- 
lation. Even  the  United  States  Consulate  is  held  by  a 
Greek,  a  most  genial  gentlemanlike  person,  by  the  way, 
doing  all  in  his  power  to  make  Americans  at  home. 

To  continue  my  digression  a  little,  I  may  add  that  very 
shortly  numbers  of  Americans  will  be  attracted  to  Egypt 
to  settle. 

My  friend  Captain  M.  informed  me  that  the  liberality  of 
the  present  able,  kind,  and  energetic  Viceroy,  particularly 
to  Americans,  is  proverbial,  and  that  many  openings  in 
business  and  trade  in  Cairo  he  is  desirous  of  giving  to 
Americans.     He  has  taken  a  great  fancy  to  them. 


CXI. 

ABOUT   COTTON". 

My  informant  told  me  that  the  Viceroy  was  bending  all 
his  energies  to  the  proper  cultivation  of  cotton :  Egypt 
being  a  country  of  vast  agricultural  capabilities,  foremost 
among  its  exportable  products  is  the  staple  referred  to.  It 
is  not  generally  known  that  the  Egyptian  cotton  is  of  a 
very  high  grade. 

In  all  European  markets  the  Sea  Island  cotton  of  the 
United  States  stands  first,  the  next  in  value  is  the  Egyptian, 
the  lowest  is  the  Upland  of  the  Southern  States ;  the  latter 
is  hardty  ever  at  more  than  half  the  price  of  either  of  the 
two  former  in  all  foreign  markets. 

There  is  no  limit,  he  says,  to  the  supply  that  Egypt  can 


Drifting  About.  335 

furnish,  so  far  as  breadth  of  suitable  land  is  concerned. 
The  only  difficulty  is  the  inadequate  supply  of  laborers. 

These,  it  struck  me,  could  be  readily  and  cheaply  ob- 
tained from  India. 

It  appears  that  His  Highness  the  Viceroy  is  quite  alive  to 
the  permanent  importance  of  this  matter,  and  will  soon 
furnish  large  supplies. 

A  few  months  before  my  arrival  he  had  imported  from 
Georgia  a  quantity  of  the  Sea  Island  seed,  and  it  has  pro- 
duced a  cotton  fully  equal  to  the  best  Georgia. 

But  I  had  almost  forgotten  that  we  had  had  our  break- 
fast prior  to  starting  for  the  world-renowned  Pyramids. 

Let  us  mount  our  donkeys  (mine  began  to  kick  imme- 
diately) and  be  off.  Some  eight  or  ten  are  before  the  hotel- 
door  :  one  for  myself,  one  for  old  Hassan,  my  Arab  ser- 
vant, a  regular  wag  by  the  way,  full  of  all  manner  of  devil- 
try and  fun,  whom  I  may  honor  perhaps  by  again  mention- 
ing ;  another  "  moak "  for  my  fat  friend  the  Captain,  and 
one  for  his  servant ;  another  for  an  American  lady,  and  her 
attendant ;  making  one  of  the  merriest  cavalcades  that  ever 
turned  face  pyramid-ward. 

I  must  not  fail  to  notice  the  donkey  of  the  trip,  a  sort  of 
miniature  hotel,  in  the  matter  of  refreshments,  with  a  full 
pannier  on  each  side. 

What  was  in  these  panniers,  or  rather  what  was  not  in 
them,  it  would  be  difficult  to  tell. 

If  you  wish  to  know  them,  the  exclamation  "  Walker" 
will  better  answer  the  query. 

A  three  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  the  base  of  the  princi- 
pal pyramid,  and  what  a  sight  greeted  me  I  I  cannot  find 
language  to  convey  the  faintest  idea  of  the  emotions  it 
enkindled ;  they  were  not  simply  those  of  wonder  but  of 
awe.  How  into  perfect  nothingness  dwindled  every  monu- 
ment or  pillar  I  had  seen.  I  cannot  imagine  why  these 
huge  monuments  were  built.  Most  people,  I  believe,  have 
a  theory  upon  the  subject ;  but  it  seems  to  me  their  origin 
as  to  time,  circumstance,  and  cause,  is  utterly  unknown. 

The  one  I  ascended  was  about  490  feet  high.  I  reached 
the  top  by  the  aid  of  steps,  about  four  feet  apart ;  it  was 
toilsome  and  somewhat  dangerous,  and  the  heat  very  great, 
but  my  guide  took  good  care  of  me,  and,  gaining  the  top, 


336  Drifting  About. 

desired  me  to  look  at  our  party  left  at  the  base.  When 
lo  I  and  behold  !  moving  to  and  fro  on  the  sand  were  half- 
a-dozen  black  specks,  more  like  insects  than  human  beings; 
and  when  my  readers  are  informed  that  the  base  of  this 
pyramid  covered  over  twelve  acres  of  land,  standing  upon 
a  piece  of  ground  much  larger  than  the  Park  in  New  York, 
they  will  better,  perhaps,  appreciate  the  view  I  obtained 
upon  reaching  the  summit. 

It  would  be  difficult  for  me  to  say,  exactly,  what  I  saw, 
for  it  appeared  to  me,  above  and  below,  to  be  one  great 
sheet  of  sky  and  barren  land  ;  and  from  this  dizzy  altitude, 
as  I  looked  on  the  two  sister  pyramids  in  the  distance,  the 
pointed  minarets  of  the  mosques  at  Cairo,  I  thought  of 
those  who,  four  thousand  years  ago,  were  standing  on  this 
same  spot,  and,  like  myself,  speculating  as  to  the  origin  of 
this  stupendous  pile,  or  the  purposes  for  which  it  was 
erected. 

Leaving  the  gates  of  Cairo,  the  pyramids  were  perpetu- 
ally in  sight ;  and  as  I  stood  on  a  high  mountainous  range, 
right  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  without  any  very  particular 
thing  with  which  to  compare  them,  the  great  size  of  the 
pyramids  did  not  so  much  strike  me ;  but  the  nearer  I 
reached  them,  the  more  their  gigantic  proportions  grew 
upon  me,  until  approaching  the  first  layer  of  stones,  I 
began  to  appreciate  my  own  liliputian  dimensions. 

It  took  me  about  half  an  hour  to  get  to  the  top.  There 
are  over  200  tiers  of  stone  from  one  to  four  feet  in  height. 
A  great  part  of  the  ascent  was  accomplished  by  me  on  my 
knees,  assisted  greatly  by  my  two  Arab  guides. 

I  said  just  now  it  would  be  difficult  for  me  to  describe 
precisely  what  I  saw,  upon  reaching  this  great  altitude; 
but  no  person  can  stand  at  the  top  of  this  vast  pyramid 
and  gaze  upon  the  dark  mountains  bordering  the  Arabian 
desert,  upon  the  ancient  cities  of  the  Pharaohs,  with  their 
minarets,  mosques,  and  domes,  all  glowing  in  the  light  of  a 
burning  sun,  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Nile,  the  river  of 
Egypt  rolling  at  his  feet,  the  range  of  pyramids  and  tombs 
extending  along  the  edges  of  the  desert  to  the  ruined  city 
of  Memphis,  and  the  eternal  and  boundless  sands  of  Africa, 
without  receiving  impressions  never  to  be  effaced. 

I^*£?»l«-that  the  great  pyramid  contains  six  millions  of 


Drifting  About.  337 

cubic  feet  of  stone,  and  that  one  hundred  thousand  men 
were  employed  twenty  years  in  building  it. 


CXII. 

ALEXANDKIA. 

On  the  following  day  I  left  for  Alexandria,  and  stopped 
at  the  Hotel  d'Europe — a  capital  hostelry,  and  where  I 
was  kindly  attended  to ;  the  landlord  obliging,  the  table 
a  capital  one,  and  the  charges  moderate. 

Having  obtained,  through  the  Consul,  the  necessary 
order,  I  went  to  the  Pasha's  palace,  taking  off  my  shoes 
before  I  crossed  the  threshold.  Chaste  and  costly  orna- 
ments, floor  inlaid  with  rosewood,  pearl,  and  ebony; 
marble,  highly  polished  and  variegated ;  rooms  fitted  up 
with  every  luxury;  baths  of  perfumed  water,  and  bed- 
steads of  solid  silver,  dazzle,  bewilder,  and  astonish  you. 
And  really,  in  many  respects,  in  and  about  the  city,  I  found 
much  to  interest  me. 

The  public  square,  on  which  the  principal  government 
buildings  and  hotels  are  situated,  hardly  has  its  superior 
in  any  city  of  its  size  in  the  world. 

At  evening  it  has  very  great  attractions,  especially  when 
a  gorgeous  eastern  full  moon  lights  it  up,  and  when  its 
numerous  promenaders  bask  in  its  light,  listening  to  the 
capital  band  furnished  by  the  Viceroy. 

The  environs  of  the  town  are  singularly  beautiful.  No- 
where in  the  East  did  I  see  finer  drives ;  the  inhabitants 
seem  to  prize  them,  and  the  "turnouts"  upon  the  road 
about  sunset  are  of  the  best  description ;  usually  well  built 
French  barouches,  drawn  by  symmetrical  Arabian  horses. 
The  latter  have  not  been  over-praised,  they  cannot  be ;  of 
the  purest  Arab  blood,  they  seem  admirably  broken  in,  if 
broken  in  they  can  be  said  to  be,  for  the  Arab  horse  is  by 
nature  docile. 

The  Arabs  treat  their  horses  even  more  tenderly  than 
they  do  their  children.  It  is  thought  by  many  that  the  art 
which  Mr.  Karey  so  eminently  possesses  is  well  known  to 


338  Drifting  About. 

the  Egyptians;  indeed,  some  think  he  received  the  idea 
from  them. 

I  think  Alexandria  is,  beyond  doubt,  destined  speedily  to 
become  a  commercial  port  of  the  first  rank.  The  present 
Viceroy,  it  would  seem,  sees  its  importance,  and  is  doing 
wonders  in  the  premises. 

The  modern  invention  of  the  screw-steamer,  as  a  means 
of  propulsion,  will  materially  aid  him.  The  long  and  fre- 
quent calms  in  the  Mediterranean  render  sailing  vessels  of 
comparatively  little  use,  except  for  carrying  coals  and  heavy 
goods  thither,  or  in  taking  back  grain ;  all  lighter  merchan- 
dise is  carried  by  the  screw-steamers. 

While  on  this  subject,  and  to  wind  up  my  Egyptian 
"  notes,"  I  may  add  that  I  was  much  interested  in  an  inven- 
tion which  my  American  friend,  Captain  M.,  thinks  he  has 
made.  It  is  that  of  a  "  concentrated  fueV  He  reasons 
thus,  and  I  think  with  a  good  deal  of  plausibility. 

Take  a  ton  of  ordinary  bituminous  coal,  for  example,  and 
put  it  under  the  boiler ;  what  becomes  of  this  ton  of  coal  f 
A  very  considerable  percentage,  as  everybody  knows, 
escapes  from  the  chimney  in  the  form  of  smoke ;  another 
very  considerable  percentage  is  thrown  overboard  in  the 
form  of  what  they  call  "slag." 

My  friend  referred  to,  proposes  to  divest  the  coal  of  these 
two  useless  elements  before  putting  it  on  board  ship;  or,  in 
other  words,  to  "coke  it"  on  shore.  He  expects  to  charge 
this  coke  with  two  important  elements  which  are  supporters 
of  combustion  ;  he  will  then  reduce  the  mixture  to  a  pow- 
der by  proper  machinery,  then  by  powerful  pressure  to 
make  it  into  compact,  solid  cubes  of  any  desired  size  or 
weight.  The  experiments  he  has  made,  he  assures  me,  are 
highly  gratifying,  and  he  is  confident  that  one  ton  measure- 
ment of  this  fuel  will  do  the  work  of  four  tons  of  ordinary  bitu- 
minous coal ! 

The  Viceroy  is  very  desirous  of  creating  a  larger  trade 
with  the  United  States,  and  I  was  informed  that  his  sym- 
pathies are  most  decidedly  with  America. 

As  I  have  before  said  he  has  had  steam  vessels  of  war 
built  here ;  and  he  runs  American  cars  on  his  railways. 

It  might  be  said  that  he  could  procure  what  he  wants  in 
the  way  of  manufactures  from  England  and  France.     But 


Drifting  About.  339 

he  does  not  like  England.  He  has  the  sagacity  to  perceive 
that  English  influence  has  political  as  well  as  commercial 
objects  in  view  ;  at  least  he  thinks  so  ;  which,  for  all  prac- 
tical consequences,  is  the  same  thing.  He  is  less  jealous  of 
the  French,  but  as  America  can  have  no  possible  interest 
to  serve  beyond  that  which  is  purely  commercial,  he  patron- 
izes anything  American. 

Speaking  of  American  manufactures,  the  Viceroy  is  just 
about  to  have  under  his  consideration  the  introduction  of 
American  locomotive  engines  for  his  railway. 

He  also  will  turn  his  attention  to  American  clothing  for 
his  army  and  navy.  All  these  he  now  procures  from  Eng- 
land and  France ;  but  it  is  confidently  believed  that  he  can 
more  cheaply  and  satisfactorily  supply  himself  from  Ame- 
rica. An  intelligent  American,  who  has  long  resided  there, 
is  now  -in  the  United  States,  making  the  necessary  examina- 
tion ;  he  will  soon  return  thither,  and  large  orders  for  the 
above  will  unquestionably  be  the  result. 

To  dwell  for  a  moment  on  the  American  locomotive  en- 
gines. In  many  of  the  foreign  countries,  indeed  in  all 
where  they  have  been  tried,  they  are  much  preferred  to  the 
English.  A  most  thorough  comparative  trial  of  them  was 
not  long  since  made  on  the  Southern  Railway  of  Chili,  and 
the  result  was  thus  briefly  summed  up  by  the  committee. 

"  The  trial  resulted  in  the  superiority  of  the  American 
Rogers'  Locomotives  of  both  classes,  although  the  calcu- 
lated power  of  the  English  engines  was  in  each  class  twelve 
per  cent,  the  greatest  as  to  tractive  power ;  and  more  as  to 
tire  surface  and  adhesion." 

The  time  is  near  when  American  locomotives  will  take 
the  place  of  all  others  in  the  Egyptian  railways. 

On  the  20th  of  January  T  left  Alexandria  by  steamship 
M  Colombo,"  for  Southampton  ;  on  the  25th  reached  Malta ; 
on  the  28th,  Gibraltar. 

Went  on  shore,  made  some  purchases,  and  saw  numbers 
of  monkeys,  scrambling  up  the  rock. 

Feb.  3. — Landed  at  Southampton,  and  put  up  at  the 
Castle  Inn — weather  cold,  rainy,  and  unpleasant. 


340  Drifting  About. 


CXIII. 

SOUTHAMPTON. 

Once  again  in  England !  After  the  exciting  scenes  I 
had  gone  through  in  India  and  elsewhere,  the  melancholy 
quiet,  the  gloomy  and  dismal  appearance  of  everything  in 
this  sober-looking  old  town,  was  particularly  noticeable. 

A  walk  up  High  street,  especially  on  a  wet  day,  will  be 
sure  to  give  you  the  blues,  and  as  it  rains  here  six  days 
out  of  the  seven,  the  chances  are,  that  you  will  be  in  that 
blissful  state  of  feeling  pretty  much  all  the  while. 

It  was  in  this  town  that  I,  by  the  advice  and  assistance 
of  my  agent,  proposed  to  give  my  initiatory  entertainment, 
having  sent  on  in  advance  from  Calcutta  an  advertisement 
to  that  effect. 

Accordingly  the  walls  were  posted,  and  the  papers 
attended  to,  and  the  Koyal  Victoria  Kooms  taken  for  Friday 
evening,  Feb.  12,  1858. 

I  was  standing  in  High  street  admiring  the  style  of  bill 
my  printer  had  treated  me  to,  when  lo  and  behold  my  next 
door,  neighbors  on  the  wall  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barney 
Williams,  whom  I  had  not  seen  since  they  left  California 
in  1855,  where  by  the  way  they  played  a  most  brilliant 
series  of  engagements,  pocketing  the  neat  little  sum  of 
$30,000  by  the  trip.  Their  talented  relations,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Florence,  have  been  likewise  wonderfully  successful  in 
England  and  in  America,  and  were  they  to  visit  Australia 
and  California,  a  rich  reward,  I  think,  would  await  them. 

The  rain  (as  usual)  came  down  furiously,  and  conse- 
quently the  people  did  not — but  what  with  "  complimen- 
taries,"  distributed  with  a  liberal  hand  by  my  indefatigable 

agent,  H.  C ,  and  a  very  decent  sprinkling  of  paying 

persons — there  was  quite  a  respectable  gathering  of  the 
"  natives." 

Now,  the  reader  must  be  informed  that  we  were  both 
(myself  and  agent)  sanguine,  not  only  as  to  the  attractive- 
ness, but  of  the  perfect  success  of  at  least  a  portion  of  the 
programme,  with  an  English  audience,  the  part  relating  to 


Drifting  About.  341 

the  recent  mutinies  in  India.  In  this,  as  the  sequel  proved, 
we  both  committed  an  error,  for  the  people  appeared  to 
care  little  about  what  had  or  had  not  occurred  in  India,  or, 
as  I  thought  the  most  likely,  were  entirely  ignorant  of  there 
being  such  a  country ! 

The  "  varied  and  interesting"  entertainment  (as  the  bills 
said)  went  off  very  well ;  the  audience,  though  not  particu- 
larly demonstrative,  were  appreciative  and  kind,  and 
though  the  receipts  did  not  warrant  my  engaging  the  Hall 
for  several  weeks,  the  performances  elicited  a  handsome 
notice  in  the  journals  of  the  next  day. 

Taking  a  run  over  to  Salisbury  and  Winchester,  we  gave 
a  night  at  the  Town  Hall,  in  the  latter  fine  old  city,  where 
I  was  honored  by  the  patronage  and  presence  of  the  Mayor 
thereof,  a  Mr.  J.  Dowling,  who  kept  a  haberdasher's  shop, 
on  the  main  street.  I  had  also  sent  complimentary  tickets 
to  the  boys  of  Winchester  School,  who  honored  me  with 
their  company,  and  seemed  greatly  pleased. 

After  visiting  the  magnificent  old  cathedral,  we  took  the 
train  for  London,  arriving  there  once  again  in  my  native 
city,  on  Saturday  the  13th  February,  where,  having  written 
to  my  old  landlady,  Mrs.  Scoone,  for  apartments,  I  found 
myself  comfortably  located  at  30  Old  Bond  street. 


CXIV. 

LONDON  ONCE  AGAIN. 

As  the  principal  object  of  my  visiting  the  metropolis 
upon  the  present  occasion,  was  the  introduction  of  my 
"Entertainment"  and  myself  to  the  great  big  "public,"  I 
shall  give  my  experience  of  some  of  the  troubles,  trials,  and 
vexations,  connected  therewith. 

First  then,  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a  stranger,  male  or 
female,  rich  or  poor,  to  obtain  a  hearing — they  are  looked 
upon  with  suspicion  and  distrust.  It  is  nothing  to  have 
received  the  stamp  of  approval  from  the  highest  in  the 
land,  in  all  portions  of  the  globe, — they  affect  to  know 
nothing  about  you  in  London  I — you  know  !     It  is  a  fear- 


342  Drifting  About. 

ful  ordeal  to  pass  through — but  a  "  bit"  once  made  here,  a 
fortune  is  as  certainly  within  your  grasp  as  that  the  Sun 
shines  in  the  heavens. 

I  came  well  introduced — and  had  been  twice  favored  by 
being  elected  an  honorary  member  of  the  "  Garrick  Club,"— 
had  met  socially  the  Editors  of  some  of  the  leading  Jour- 
nals, and  finally  was  taken  in  "  hand"  by  one — whom  they 
call  "  the  Queen's  head  man,"  the  well  known  Mr.  John 
Mitchell,  of  the  Eoyal  Library,  33  Old  Bond  street — who 
directing  his  factotum — the  good-hearted  and  erratic  "John 
Nimmo,"  to  superintend  the  "  bringing  of  me  out" — I  pro- 
ceeded to  prepare  myself  to  "  face  the  music." 

"Hanover  Square  Rooms"  had  been  selected  for  the 
debut,  and  Monday,  the  8th  of  March,  the  night  of  the  per- 
formance. 

Tickets  had  been  most  liberally  scattered — not  only  to 
the  Press,  but  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Mitchell  to  all  the 
leading  literary  men  in  London. 


cxv. 

THE   EVENT,   AND  WHAT  OCCURRED. 

As  I  left  my  lodgings  in  Old  Bond  street,  about  half-past 
seven,  it  (as  usual)  began  to  rain ! 

Upon  reaching  the  private  door  of  the  "  Rooms,"  the 
people  were  going  in  crowds,  cabs  and  carriages  lined  the 
streets,  and  it  was  pretty  evident  that  the  place  would  be 
crowded  to  suffocation — and  so  it  was  !  Too  many  tickets 
had  been  issued  for  the  size  of  the  room,  and  the  noise, 
hubbub,  and  confusion  were  intense. 

At  a  few  minutes  past  eight,  I  went  upon  the  platform, 
and  commenced  my  "  Introductory  Address" — but  I  found 
it  perfectly  useless  to  proceed — as  my  voice  was  completely 
drowned  in  the  storm  of  voices,  the  mingled  screams  of 
fainting  women,  shouting  of  the  men,  and  crying  of  child- 
ren !  I  stood  for  a  minute  or  so,  and  placidly  surveyed  the 
scene — wondering  the  cause — and  in  a  perfect  quandary  as 
to  what  to  do ;  the  noise  continued — and  amid  cries  of 


Drifting  About. 


343 


"order,"  "shame,"  "hisses,"  "put 'em  out,"  "sit  down," 
"  we've  got  no  seats,"  "  humbug,"  "can't  see,"  "  can't  hear," 
and  the  like,  I  walked  off!  fully  determined  on  not  appear- 
ing till  the  audience  were  quiet. 

I  waited  perhaps  ten  minutes — when  on  I  went — the 
noise  still  continuing— but  upon  my  going  to  the  piano,  to 
sing  my  first  song,  it  gradually  subsided. 

Now  this  in  itself  was  enough  to  disturb  and  ruffle  one, 
but  as  I  proceeded  with  my  motley  programme — jumping 
from  the  comic  to  the  serious — without  the  slightest  con- 
tinuity or  connexion — I  found  out,  and  felt  the  mistake  I 
had  made,  particularly  in  presenting  ihe  terrible  account 
of  the  revolt  in  India,  and  the  blowing  away  from  the  guns  ! 
and  when  my  Sepoy  servant — a  real  live  native,  in  Indian 
costume,  handed  round  the  weapon  to  the  audience,  used 
by  an  English  lady  at  Cawnpore  in  defending  herself  from 
the  attacks  of  the  mutineers,  the  effect  produced  was  any- 
thing but  pleasing — to  myself  or  my  audience.  My  enter- 
tainment concluded  with  the  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade, 
which  was  most  enthusiastically  received,  and  right  glad 
was  I  when  it  was  all  over ! 


The  papers  the  next  day,  as  a  general  thing,  were  favor- 
able, some  highly  complimentary — and  I  was  strongly 
advised  to  repeat  the  performance,  making  some  slight 
alterations  in  the  programme  ;  but  I  had  accomplished  my 
object,  viz.  appearing  in  the  great  metropolis  before  an 


344  Drifting  About. 

English  audience  alone  and  unassisted — and  although  in 
a  pecuniary  point  of  view  I  was  not  much  benefited,  I 
had  gained  a  little  experience  as  to  the  likes,  dislikes,  and 
requirements  of  a  London  audience. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  difficulty  of  making  an  impression, 
i.  e.  a  favorable  one,  or  what  they  call  a  "  palpable  hit"  in 
London,  and  of  the  immense  expense  attending  a  proper 
introduction  to  a  metropolitan  audience,  I  will  mention 
that  in  many  instances  hundreds  of  pounds  have  been  sunk, 
houses,  night  after  night,  packed  with  free  tickets  and 
orders,  and  every  conceivable  plan  resorted  to,  in  order  to 
gain  the  good- will  of  the  people. 

Albert  Smith's  first  attempt  as  a  "Lecturer"  in  his 
"  Overland  Mail"  was  a  dead  failure — but  nothing  daunted, 
he  went  at  it  again,  and  achieved  success,  fame,  and 
fortune  by  his  "  Mont  Blanc." 

Mr.  Henry  Eussell,  perhaps,  is  the  most  remarkable  in- 
stance of  the  success  of  a  Monologue  entertainment — he 
having  retired  some  years  since  on  a  fortune  of  £60,000. 
This  gentleman  strongly  advised  me  to  remain  in  London, 
stating  from  what  he  had  seen  and  heard  of  my  first  appear- 
ance, the  impression  I  had  made  was  favorable — that  I 
should  be  patient,  that  I  could  remain  profitably  and  per- 
manently in  London  for  months. 

But  I  was  restless,  did  not  care  about  losing  any  more 
money,  was  anxious  to  get  back  to  dear  old  New  York, 
and  make  a  running  tour  through  the  States,  and  settle 
quietly  down. 

In  connexion  with  this  matter,  I  shall  trouble  the  reader 
with  an  extract  from  a  very  kind  letter  received  by  me 
while  in  London,  from  a  gentleman  of  position  and  experi- 
ence, which  will  be  found  somewhat  germane  to  the 
subject. 

Park  Road,  Regent's  Park, 

March  15,  1858. 

Stephen  C.  Massett,  Esq., 

My  Dear  Sir  : — Since  I  last  addressed  you,  that  mighty 
engine,  the  press,  has  pronounced  on  the  merits  of  your  debut 
at  the  Hanover  Square  Eooms.  The  opinions  are  certainly 
various — though  some  are  highly  complimentary,  such  as 


Drifting  About.  345 

the  "  Morning  Chronicle,"  the  "  Morning  Advertiser," 
"Standard,"  "Lloyd's  Weekly,"  the  "Era,"  and  even  the 
"  Times,"  though  suggestive,  and  pointing  out  the  non- 
adaptability  of  your  selections  to  a  London  audience — is  as 
a  whole  favorable — as  it  lauds  your  genius. 

For  myself,  I  discovered  that  you  had  not  taken  into 
account  the  true  character,  idiosyncrasies,  peculiarities,  and 
humor,  of  a  promiscuous  English  audience,  which  is  so 
phlegmatic  and  concentrative  that  it  is  a  herculean  task 
to  move  them,  and  when  moved  to  change  the  current  of 
their  bent.  It  was  in  this  you  failed ;  to  the  discriminat- 
ing yours  was  an  intellectual  treat  of  a  high  order — you 
demonstrated  the  rare  genius  of  portraying  the  deepest 
pathos,  in  juxtaposition  to  the  extravagantly  grotesque. 
To  the  mercurial  American,  Australian,  Anglo-Englishman, 
or  Dutchman,  these  sudden  undulations — these  touches  of 
humanity — in  contrast  to  the  graphic  delineations  of  the 
incongruous — would  have  been  like  carbonic  acid  on  wine 
of  life — they  would  have  relished  the  draught  with  zest ; 
not  so  with  cold  apathetic  John  Bull — avoid  these  powerful 
antagonisms,  and  success  is  your  own  ! 

"  Nothing  could  excel  your  various  recitations.   So  great, 

indeed,  was  the  effect  produced,  that  several  ladies  were 

moved  to  tears ;  but  to  my  chagrin,  on  the  next  instant  you 

introduced  a  burlesque  representation — though  true  to  life, 

still  not  in  taste.     The  mind  cannot  tolerate  such  a  sudden 

revulsion — the  antithesis  is  repulsive." 

****** 


CXVL 

MR.  SHIRLEY  BROOKS. 

This  gentleman,  so  well  known  and  esteemed  in  England 
and  in  this  country  as  a  delightful  writer,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  bright  ornaments  of  the  Illustrated  News  and  of  Punch, 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  upon  one  or  two  occasions, 
and  was  by  him  very  cordially  received.  In  a  letter  from 
him,  acknowledging  one  I  brought  him  from  Calcutta,  he 
thus  writes — 

15* 


346  Drifting  About. 

"  If  there  is  any  advice  or  assistance  that  I  can  give  you 
towards  promoting  your  object  here,  I  need  not  say  it  is 
most  heartily  at  your  service. 

"  I  have  received  the  highest  accounts  of  your  talents, 
and  indeed  genius,  and  it  would  appear  to  me  that  an  Enter- 
tainment, written  to  the  present  requirements  of  London  audi- 
ences, is  all  that  you  require  to  secure  the  best  possible  of 
positions." 

So  much  for  my  first  and  last  appearance  in  the  good  old 
city  of  London. 

Having  taken  farewell  of  the  dear  public,  I  turned  my 
attention,  for  the  few  weeks  I  remained  in  England,  to 
sight-seeing  and  amusements  generally. 


CXVIL 

THE   DERBY  DAY. 

On  the  19th  of  May,  I  started  with  my  friend  H.  C.  for 
the  Derby  races.  We  went  democratically,  and  by  rail. 
Such  a  sight,  in  point  of  numbers,  I  had  never  witnessed, 
excepting  on  the  Esplanade  at  Bombay.  There  were  over 
100,000  persons  on  the  ground,  of  all  sizes,  ages,  sexes,  and 
degrees.  From  my  lofty  and  somewhat  rickety  seat  on  the 
Grand  Stand,  that  cost  me  a  guinea,  my  companion  pointed 
out  to  me  some  of  the  celebrities.  I  distinctly  saw  Lord 
Derby,  standing  by  the  head  of  his  horse,  patting  him,  and 
carefully  seeing  that  he  was  properly  attended  to — (Toxo- 
phylite,;I  think  the  name  was), — while  Sir  Joseph  Hawley 
led  his  winning  horse  Beadsman,  evidently  satisfied  that  he 
had  made  all  he  could  on  that  day !  I  was  informed  that  he 
had  won  over  £50,000  !  Dukes,  lords,  baronets,  and  knights, 
played  at  single-stick  with  costermongers,  jugglers,  pie-msn, 
and  sweeps;  for  all  is  fair  on  the  Derby  day.  Thimble- 
riggers  and  "little  joker"  men  passed  the  time  o'  day  with 
a  learned  judge  or  a  fashionable  marquis;  while  in  the 
snowy  hand  of  a  lady,  a  ham  sandwich  was  invitingly 
clutched,  preparatory  to  swallowing  a  glass  of  sparkling 
ale,  which  a  distinguished  member  of  parliament  was  draw- 


Drifting  About.  347 

ing  from  a  beer  barrel  on  the  top  of  a  drag  or  four-in-hand. 
Patient-looking  donkeys  stood  before  huge  wagons,  con- 
taining miniature  theatres  with  a  stove  pipe  running 
through  the  roof;  while  a  small  man  with  a  big  drum,  and 
a  fat  woman  with  a  clinking  triangle,  on  the  portable  step- 
ladder,  invited  the  people  into  the  show.  Every  imaginable 
style  of  vehicle  was  on  the  field,  and  all  conditions  of  per- 
sons represented,  and  exchanging  with  each  other  good- 
natured  nods.  The  dust  kicked  up  on  the  return  to  town 
was  something  fearful,  and  the  sight  one  to  be  remembered. 
Pell-mell  went  everybody  and  everything — dog  carts, 
drags,  broughams,  gigs,  cabs,  hansoms,  four-in-hands, 
spring  carts  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  carriages,  close  and 
open,  filled  with  shouting  men,  women,  and  children, 
chased  or  stumbled  against  each  other,  while  friendly  recog- 
nitions, in  the  shape  of  a  well-picked  knuckle  of  lamb,  a 
cold  potato,  or  a  stale  loaf,  with  well-directed  aim,  from 
nobody  knows  where,  caught  you  on  the  "  top  knot,"  or 
fell  into  the  lap  of  a  Belgravia  beauty,  unnoticed,  and  only 
laughed  at ;  for  all  is  fair  on  the  Derby  day. 


CXIX. 

THE   GARRICK  CLUB. 

On  the  17th  of  April,  I  was  elected  a  second  time  an 
honorary  member  of  this  delightful  association,  and 
received  the  following  note  informing  me  of  the  fact : 

Garrick  Club,  17  April,  1858. 

Sir  : — I  have  the  honor,  by  the  direction  of  the  Com- 
mittee, to  inform  you  that  they  have  this  day  had  the  plea- 
sure of  electing  you  an  honorary  member  of  the  Garrick 
Club. 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

S.  C.  Massett,  Esq.  Alex.  Doland,  Secy. 

This  is  one  of  the  pet  clubs  of  London,  and  in  point  of 
comfort,  completeness  of  its  internal  arrangements,  luxu- 
riousness  of  the  living,  the  regularity,  order  and  system 


348  Drifting  About. 

that  prevail — to  say  nothing  of  the  delightful  people  that 
you  meet  with  in  close  communion,  and  the  generous  wel- 
come you  receive,  renders  it  one  of  the  favorite  places  of 
resort  for  those  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  be  elected  a 
member. 

The  smoking-room  is  quite  an  institution  of  its  kind. 
Over  the  door,  in  gold  lettering,  is  a  notice,  something  like 
the  following : 

"  This  room  is  exclusively  intended  for  members  of  this 
club,  on  no  pretence  whatever  are  strangers  admitted." 

My  good  friend,  Mr.  Lyster  O'B.,  had  informed  me,  that 
this  did  not  apply  to  me,  and  that  I  should  feel  myself  as 
much  a  member  as  any  one  of  their  number ;  and  that  in 
this  room  all  the  fun  and  jollity  took  place. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  presented,  among  others,  to 
the  President  thereof,  Lord  Tenterden,  who  in  the  warmest 
and  most  genial  manner  welcomed  me,  and  from  whom, 
since  my  return  to  America,  I  have  received  a  very  kind 
note,  in  which  his  lordship  remarks : 

"  Should  you  again  visit  England  it  will  give  me  sincere 
pleasure  to  renew  our  acquaintance — we  propose  to  build  a 
large  house,  and  upon  some  future  occasion  will  rejoice  to 
bid  you  welcome  to  our  new  home,  and  to  old  friends." 

Some  of  the  most  delightful  hours  were  passed  at  this 
club.  I  met  Thackeray  once  or  twice,  the  first  time  in 
1853,  at  the  Fielding,  immediately  after  his  return  from 
America,  where  he  had  given  with  great  success  his  Lec- 
tures upon  the  Georges. 

During  a  brief  conversation  with  him  about  San  Fran- 
cisco, he  turned  to  me  and  said,  "  Who  is  the  funny  man 
of  California  ?" — I  replied  that  there  were  a  great  many 
funny  men — that  I  did  not  know  exactly  to  whom  he  re- 
ferred. Why,  replied  Mr.  T.,  the  man  who  wrote  those 
astronomical  burlesque  sketches  in  the  Knickerbocker 
Magazine.  I  knew  then  that  he  referred  to  the  late  Lieut. 
Derby.  I  thought  the  question,  coming  from  one  who  is 
at  times  so  cynical,  something  of  a  compliment  for  the  late 
Mr.  John  Phoenix  Squibob. 


Drifting  About.  349 

cxx. 


On  Thursday  evening  April  15,  1858,  at  St.  Martin's 
Hall,  Mr.  Charles  Dickens  commenced  for  the  first  time  in 
public  his  "  Headings." 

He  had  been  advertised  for  some  weeks  beforehand,  in 
the  principal  Journals  of  the  day,  and  all  the  reserved  seats 
had  been  taken. 

I  went  with  some  friends  at  least  an  hour  before  it  com- 
menced, and  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  elbowing  my  way 
into  the  room. 

Streets  fairly  blocked  up  with  carriages,  men,  women  and 
children,  and  the  greatest  confusion  prevailed. 

Precisely  at  eight,  preceded  by  Mr.  Arthur  Smith,  Mr. 
Dickens  stepped  on  the  platform.  It  was  the  first  time  that  I 
had  seen  him,  and  I  certainly  should  not  have  recognised 
any  resemblance  to  the  plaster  busts,  with  the  long  flowing 
curly  hair,  round  and  beardless  chin,  that  were  so  common 
here  twenty  years  ago. 

Mr.  Dickens  was  at  this  date  about  forty-six.  His  hair 
was  of  an  iron  grey  color,  he  wore  a  pretty  full  beard,  a  sort 
of  goatee  ;  he  had  on  a  very  white  waistcoat,  and  a  very  large 
bouquet  attached  to  the  left  lappel  of  a  black  dress  coat. 
$iter  adjusting  the  lamps  on  either  side  of  him,  and  not 
once  looking  at  the  audience,  or  in  the  slightest  degree 
acknowledging  the  storm  of  applause  with  which  upon  his 
entrance  he  was  greeted — and  opening  a  large  book,  which 
appeared  to  me  to  be  printed  on  one  side  of  the  leaf,  in 
very  large  type,  and  carrying  in  his  hand  an  ivory  paper 
knife,  with  which  he  tapped  the  page  of  his  book — and 
first  moistening  his  lips  with  the  inevitable  tumbler  of 
water,  he  commenced  to  read  his  celebrated  Christmas 
Carol.    • 

Dickens,  without  any  exception,  is  the  finest  "  reader"  I 
have  ever  heard ;  there  is  nothing  of  the  stereotyped  gesticu- 
lation, intonation,  or  attitudinizing  of  your  professed  elocu- 
tionist— there  is  no   straining  for    effect — it    is    natural, 


350  Drifting  About. 

quiet,  straightforward,  and  from  the  individuality  with 
which  each  character  is  invested,  it  becomes  intensely- 
interesting  as  the  story  proceeds.  His  voice  is  resonant 
and  unctuous,  and  wonderfully  sympathetic,  and  I  was 
informed  that  in  private  he  is  esteemed  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  of  actors. 

Laughter  and  sobbings  alternately  rewarded  his  efforts, 
and  when  you  take  into  consideration  that  there  were  over 
£400  in  the  house,  it  will  be  perceived  that  the  whole  affair 
must  have  been  to  him  highly  satisfactory. 

Since  that  time,  as  the  public  is  aware,  Mr.  Dickens  has 
continued  with  the  most  unbounded  success,  his  "Read- 
ings," and  it  is  said  he  easily  realizes  £10,000  a  year  by 
this  single  effort. 


CXXI. 


THE   SHAKSPEARE  DINNER  AT  THE   GARRICK  CLUB. 

This  was  one  of  the  most  delightful  reunions  I  was 
present  at  in  London  ;  none  but  members  of  the  Club  were 
admitted,  and  I  think  about  three  hundred  sat  down  to 
dinner.  Mr.  Charles  Kean  was  in  the  chair,  and  made  a 
capital  speech ;  Dickens,  I  was  sorry  to  see,  left  early,  and  did 
not  respond,  as  he  was  expected,  to  the  toast  of  "  Literature 
and  the  Arts" — he  had  a  previous  engagement,  it  appeared, 
and  slipped  away  unobserved.  I  had  heard  so  much  of  the1 
cleverness  of  his  off-hand  speeches,  that  I  regretted  very 
much  his  leaving.  Sir  Charles  Taylor,  in  introducing,  or 
rather  calling  upon  Mr.  Thackeray  to  respond,  brought  the 
author  of  "  Pendennis"  on  the  floor,  who,  first  adjusting 
his  spectacles,  and  placing  his  right  arm  in  his  ponderous 
waistcoat,  replied  somewhat  peevishly  at  first,  but  at  length 
warmed  up — and  drew  a  beautiful  little  sketch  of  an  imagi- 
nary conversation  that  the  different  pictures  hanging  on  the 
walls  of  the  dining-room  of  the  old  Garrick,  were  having 
together,  and  wondering  among  themselves  in  their  lonely 
apartment,  what  the  absent  members  were  talking  about, 
and  doing.     It  was  excessively  graphic  and  amusing. 


Drifting  About.  351 

This  speech,  and  Mr.  Kean's,  were  the  principal  efforts  of 
the  night. 


CXXII. 

HANGING  AT  THE  OLD  BAILEY. 

I  happened  to  be  in  London  on  Monday,  26th  of  April, 
1858,  the  day  of  the  execution  of  a  young  Italian,  named 
Giovani  Lani,  who  had  been  tried  and  convicted  of  the 
murder  of  a  female  in  the  Haymarket.  The  affair  created 
quite  a  sensation  at  the  time,  and  though  the  offence  was  a 
very  aggravated  one,  and  the  prisoner  himself  had  fully 
confessed  his  guilt,  still  from  his  extreme  youth,  only  nine- 
teen, and  the  fact  of  his  being  a  foreigner,  and  unable  to 
speak  or  understand* English,  he  excited  a  good  deal  of 
sympathy. 

Dining  the  day  previous  with  a  friend  who  informed  me 
that  he  knew  the  method  of  obtaining  two  good  seats  for 
five  shillings  each,  and  that  it  was  his  intention  to  be  pre- 
sent, we,  on  the  night  before,  took  a  cab  to  Newgate  street, 
and  at  the  small  tavern  immediately  opposite  the  jail,  on 
the  second  floor,  we  secured  two  "  chairs." 

Upon  some  occasions,  fabulous  sums  are  paid  for  a  good 
"  view ;"  ten,  fifteen,  and  twenty  pounds,  have  been  freely 
given. 

I  was  informed  that  the  floor  above  me  had  been  taken 

by  Lord ,  for  five  pounds,  and  that  his  Lordship  was 

then  up-stairs,  with  some  boon  companions,  passing  the 
night  in  song  and  merriment. 

Wishing  to  avoid  the  crowd  as  much  as  possible,  we 
were  on  the  ground  at  the  early  hour  of  four,  but  even  then 
the  streets  were  filled  with  people,  and  at  the  door-steps  of 
the  houses  were  seated,  men,  women,  and  even  children, 
some  eating  and  drinking,  having  passed  the  night  in  the 
open  air,  to  be  in  readiness  for  the  event. 

As  daylight  appeared,  the  excitement  in  the  street  below 
became  more  and  more  intense,  and  about  half-past  seven, 
one  mass  of  human  beings  jammed  together  so  tightly  that 


352  Drifting  About. 

ingress  or  egress  seemed  impossible,  swaying  to  and  fro 
like  the  heaving  of  the  sea,  whilst  the  hubbub,  noise,  and 
din  of  voices  arising  from  this  heterogeneous  concourse  of 
people,  really  resembled  its  roaring — as  the  first  stroke  of 
the  big  clock  of  old  St.  Sepulchre's  church  fell  upon  the  ear, 
announcing  the  hour  of  eight,  it  seemed  to  act  like  an  electric 
shock  upon  the  multitude  : — the  sight  beggars  description  : 
the  roofs  of  the  houses  swarmed  with  human  beings  in  the 
distance ;  from  the  railings  of  St.  Sepulchre  to  the  corner  of 
Newgate,  and  Fleet  street,  it  was  one  moving  mass  of 
humanity ;  and  from  this  teemful  and  excited  mob,  there 
rose  a  yell  so  demoniacal  and  appalling  that  the  lookers-on 
from  the  windows  seemed  to  shrink  from  the  hearing  of  it, 
while  the  clock  was  pealing  its  slow  and  solemn  dirge — and 
the  last  note — the  hour  of  eight — had  died  upon  the  ear, 
the  raving,  tearing,  crushing,  and  heaving  to  and  fro  of 
the  multitude,  resembled  more  the  ocean,  when  lashed  by 
the  ragings  of  a  storm,  than  anything  else  I  know  of; — 
when  suddenly  the  head  of  the  culprit  appeared  upon  the 
black  platform,  accompanied  by  the  Sheriffs  of  London, 
the  clergyman,  and  Calcraft,  the  executioner, — the  yelling, 
tearing,  and  shouting  ceased,  and  saving  and  excepting  a 
few  cries  of  "  hats  off" — "  that's  him" — and  the  like — all 
was  comparatively  still. 

The  preliminaries  over — the  rope  was  placed  around  his 
neck — the  black  cap  put  upon  his  head,  covering  his  face 
— the  rope  was  cut — and  the  body  dangled  in  the  air — then 
ere  the  spirit  had  fled,  arose  the  shoutings,  hootings,  and 
yellings  of  a  thousand  voices — some  crying  out  "  'Ere's  the 
last  speech  and  confession  of  Giovani  Lani,  hung  just 
now,"  "ony  a  'a-penny" — in  half  an  hour  the  crowd  had 
dispersed,  and  I  and  my  companion  wended  our  way 
homeward,  heartily  sick,  and  weary  of  the  disgusting  scenes 
and  incidents  attending  an  execution  at  the  "  Old  Bailey." 
As  we  left  the  Tavern,  the  landlord  stepping  up  to  me 
said :  "  Here's  a  new  riddle  just  come  out,  Sir  — Vy  is 
Calcraft,  the  Hexecutioner,  like  the  Prince  'o  Tales  ?  Cos 
he  went  to  Kill  Lani — (Killarney  !) 

The  following  verses  accompanied  his  "  last  dying  speech 
and  confession,"  and  were  sold  for  a  halfpenny. 


Drifting  About.  353 

My  victim  was,  which  I  have  found, 
A  married  woman  on  the  town, 
The  Haymarket  she  rambled  round ; 

It  was  there  I  did  her  meet. 
She  had,  it  seems,  one  night  a  dream, 
Which  often  caused  her  grief  and  pain ; 
She  told  it  o'er,  and  o'er  again, 
She  always  thought  she  would  be  slain, 

Alas !  it  was  too  true. 

Then  I  on  board  a  ship  was  found, 
That  was  to  Monte  Video  bound, 
To  Greenhithe  she  had  sailed  down, 

The  Sea  was  calm  and  clear, 
I  out  of  sight,  thought  all  was  right, 
But  oh,  alas !  I  was  deceived, 
The  truth  I  scarcely  could  believe, 
On  board  when  justice  captured  me, 

A  cruel  murderer  base. 

That  barbarous  cruel  deed  I  done, 
Tho'  young  in  years  my  time  has  come, 
Oh !  pity  your  unhappy  son, 

My  loving  parents  dear, 
I'm  doomed  to  go  to  the  grave  below, 
Giovanni  Lani,  is  my  name, 
In  sorrow,  wretchedness  and  shame, 
I  do  confess  I  am  to  blame, 

She  never  injured  me. 

Young  men,  a  warning  take  by  me, 
Behold  me  trembling  on  a  tree, 
Think  what  must  my  feelings  be, 

In  vigor,  youth  and  bloom, 
A  sad  young  man,  in  a  foreign  land, 
I  wish  I  never  had  been  born ; 
To  die  a  dreadful  death  of  scorn, 
My  glass  is  run  and  now  forlorn, 

I  hasten  to  the  tomb. 

At  the  West  End  of  London  town, 
Where  pretty  maidens  ramble  round, 
One  night  I  Heloise  Thaubin  found, 

And  she  looked  fair  and  gay, 
I  with  her  did  steer,  to  a  brothel  near, 
That  night  she  looked  in  health  and  bloom, 
She  took  me  to  the  fatal  room. 


Where  soon  I  sent  her  to  the  tomb 
'Twas  there  I  did  her  shiy. 


354  Drifting  About. 

I  on  a  foreign  land  must  die, 
Look  down  with  pity  from  on  high. 
Alas !  no  friend  or  kindred  nigh, 

My  wretched  end  to  see, 
Unhappy  man,  in  a  foreign  land, 
My  days  must  end  upon  a  tree, 
Oh !  how  could  I  so  cruel  be, 
A  female  who  never  injured  me, 

Inhumanly  I  slayed. 

I  strangled  her,  you  may  suppose, 
I  robbed  her  of  her  watch  and  clothes, 
Then  from  the  fatal  spot  did  go, 

Thinking  that  I  was  clear, 
God's  all-seeing  eye,  was  hovering  nigh, 
Taken  I  was  doomed  to  be, 
And  I  from  justice  could  not  flee, 
They  brought  me  to  the  fatal  tree, 

For  I'm  condemned  to  die. 


CXXIII. 

A  VISIT  TO  DOCTORS'  COMMONS,  LONDON,  AND  TO  THE  SUR- 
ROGATE'S OFFICE,  NEW  YORK.      THE  CONTRAST. 

Immediately  in  the  rear  of  St.  Paul's  Church,  up  a 
very  narrow  court,  is  the  celebrated  place  for  the  deposi- 
tory of  wills. 

Thither  I  went  one  morning  from  sheer  curiosity,  to 
look  at  the  will  of  a  deceased  relative,  who  I  thought  might 
have  accidentally  left  me  a  few  shillings. 

Entering  a  little  green  baize  door,  covered  all  over  with 
brass  nails,  with  an  oval  piece  of  glass  let  into  the  top  panel, 
I  encountered  a  bald-headed  gentleman,  seated  on  a  very 
high  three-legged  stool,  to  whom  I  paid  one  shilling,  for  the 
privilege  of  looking  at  the  aforesaid  will. 

Pointing  dismally  with  a  very  shaky  and  rickety  look- 
ing ink-dyed  first  finger,  to  another  door,  he  told  me  to 
enter,  and  keep  straight  on  until  I  came  to  a  larger  room 
with  a  number  of  desks  in  it,  where  I  should  receive  fur- 
ther directions.  This  I  soon  found,  and  I  will  endeavor  to 
describe  what  I  saw — and  what  I  did.     Everything  was  as 


Drifting  About.  355 

silent  as  the  grave — nobody  spoke  above  a  whisper — and 
those  who  walked  stepped  on  tiptoe  from  desk  to  desk,  as 
though  some  frightful  calamity  had  just  happened.  Dark, 
dank,  dismal,  and  gloomy  looked  everybody,  and  every- 
thing. Shelves  covered  the  walls  of  the  apartment,  upon 
which  had  rested  for  hundreds  of  years  ponderous  books,  all 
duly  labelled,  and  lettered  from  A  to  Z,  and  I  have  not  the 
slightest  doubt  (though  I  forgot  to  ask  for  it),  that  the  will 
of  Adam,  Cain,  and  Abel,  or  Mr.  Noah,  if  they  ever  made 
any,  could  be  found  here. 

Approaching  the  desk  of  the  dark  who  had  charge  of  the 
letter  u  C" — the  one  I  wanted — I  gave  him  the  name,  and 
as  well  as  I  could  remember,  the  date  of  my  relative's 
death ;  and  when  the  reader  is  informed  that  I  commenced 
to  "  go  over  the  C's"  at  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  continued  until  two  in  the  afternoon,  and  was  told  that 
there  were  about  fifty  more  books  of  the  same  letter  and 
date  to  look  through,  my  disgust  can  be  imagined,  and  I 
gave  it  up  in  despair.  A  man,  while  I  was  standing  there, 
actually  gave  the  name  of  "  Brown,"  which  I  noticed  cre- 
ated a  gentle  titter  among  the  "Noggs,"  one  of  whom, 
with  a  shrug  of  the  shoulder,  pointed  in  the  direction  of 
the  "  B's,  who  evidently  seemed  desirous  of  being  "  Busy  " 
about  other  things  just  at  that  moment.  Without  exagge- 
ration there  were  over  twenty  shelves  of  "  B's," — think  of 
wading  through  the  begrimed  dusty  pages  of  a  big  book 
covered  with  cobwebs,  on  a  hot  summer's  day,  to  look  for 
what  you  cannot  find. 

The  fittings-up  and  furniture  of  this  room  were  of  the 
most  antique  description,  and  I  should  imagine  had  known 
no  change  for  at  least  a  century.  There  were  the  high  old 
dark  mahogany  desks,  with  dangling  brass  handles  and 
innumerable  pigeon-holes,  and  three-legged  stool  to  match, 
the  top  of  which,  scooped  out  and  well  polished  by  con- 
stant use  and  friction,  was  only  reached  by  a  gymnastic 
spring,  that  was  particularly  ludicrous  upon  some  occasions 
to  witness ;  old  pewter  ink-stands,  with  long  quills,  and 
feathers  at  the  end,  stuck  in  'em,  while  the  remaining  para- 
phernalia might  have  been  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Book- 
keeper in  Noah's  ark.  Through  the  thick  and-heavy  sashes 
of  the  window-frames,  with  the  panes  black  with  du§t  and 


356  Drifting  About. 

smoke,  you  look  into  a  court-yard,  where  there  is  a  little 
scrap  of  verdure  and  a  small  "  Fountain;"  out  of  this  win- 
dow an  old  gentleman  was  gazing,  with  both  hands  stuck 
into  his  breeches  pocket — very  much  after  the  order  of  Mr. 
Pickwick — when  the  following  rather  amusing  incident 
took  place.  But  first,  I  must  inform  the  reader  that  all  the 
"  Noggs"  in  this  department  looked  more  like  very  gloomy 
and  retired  undertakers,  than  anything  else  I  know  of. 

The  old  clarkj  above  referred  to,  was  dressed  in  a  seedy 
suit  of  black,  with  very  tight-fitting  knee-breeches,  and 
gaiters  to  match,  and  carried  about  with  him  as  fine  a  pair 
of  calves  as  ever  twinkled  behind  a  carriage  in  Belgravia ; 
as  his  back  was  only  at  first  visible,  I  could  simply  notice 
the  peculiar  cut  of  the  coat,  which  very  much  resembled 
Mr.  Toodles's — the  tail  descending  nearly  to  the  heel — and 
from  one  of  the  pockets  was  hanging,  as  if  to  dry,  a  very 
uncomfortable-looking  handkerchief,  of  doubtful  color ;  his 
bald  head  loomed  up  from  the  collar  of  his  coat  like  a 
moon  on  the  half  shell,  while  sticking  out  from  each  side 
of  his  top-knot  were  kittle  streaks  of  white  hair,  that — to 
carry  out  the  simile — might  be  likened  to  a  couple  of  flakes 
of  a  silver  cloud  in  attendance  on  the  orb  of  night. 

The  letter  "  H  "  came  under  this  gentleman's  immediate 
supervision;  and  as  I  noticed  a  man  approach  him,  who 
had  evidently  had  a  drop  too  mnch,  I  thought  some  fun  was 
brewing,  and  I  accordingly  remained  to  see  the  sport. 

"  I  wish  ter-hok~er  Mish-er  Hansom? s  will  ifsphshP 

"  Sir,"  said  the  fat  old  gentleman — placing  the  palm  of 
his  hand  on  the  top  of  the  stool,  and  the  other  on  the  desk, 
and  giving  rather  a  dignified  spring  he  reached  the  top, 
securing  each  leg  thereof  with  his  fat  calves — "  what  name 
did  you  say?" 

"  Misher  Hansom's" — very  emphatically  asperating  the 

Directing  the  applicant  to  about  a  dozen  shelves,  filled 
with  immense  books,  with  "H"  stamped  on  each,  he 
gloomily  resumed  his  own  occupation. 

It  was  amusing  to  see  the  man  with  "  a  drop  too  much," 
standing  very  unsteadily  against  the  railing,  with  trem- 
bling finger,  going  up  and  down  column  after  column, 
mumbling  to  himself — 


Drifting  About.  357 

11  Thers-sno-Hansom-ere —  died-i-year-eighieenem-mne- 
teen  dam/ers  an-will.  Hansom1  s  name — dam  f taint- Willm 
Hanson's  name — {hie).  I  say, Mister  :sno  name  ere  all — (hie). 
Wont-yer  look-slff — {hie) — Isay" — and  with  this  he  pushed 
the  book  against  the  old  gentleman's  elbow,  who,  turning 
sharply  round,  said  very  pettishly  : — 

"  Do  you  spell  it  with  a  '  Hay '  or  a  H  ?"  exasperating 
the  last  letter  fearfully. 

"  Vith  a  l  Hay,1  f-course — didn't  I  tellr-sho-jst  now  P"1 

Then  again  directing  him  to  look  over  the  first  letter  of 
the  alphabet,  he  cast  a  dismal  look  at  a  series  of  shelves 
loaded  with  books,  all  marked  "  A,"  first  telling  the  old 

gentleman,  very  disrespectfully,  that  he'd  see  him  d d 

first.  He  wabbled  out  of  the  apartment — and  now  for  the 
contrast. 

I  had  occasion  to  look  at  the  will  of  a  once  resident  of 
the  city  of  New  York,  and  for  that  purpose  repaired  to  the 
oflice  of  the  Surrogate. 

I  simply  stated  to  the  clerk  the  name  of  the  deceased, 
when — as  if  it  was  the  only  will  in  existence — he  opened  a 
drawer,  and  handed  it  to  me. 

The  "  styles"  were  so  opposite,  that  I  thought  a  relation 
of  the  facts  might  amuse  the  reader. 


CXXIV. 

THE  HON.   MRS.  NORTON". 

Having  received  a  very  pleasant  note  from  this  delight- 
ful authoress,  inviting  me  to  call  upon  her,  I  duly  presented 
myself  at  the  appointed  hour,  at  her  cosy  town  residence 
in  Chesterfield  Street,  May  Fair ;  but  let  my  visit  be  pre- 
faced by  an  extract  from  her  polite  note : — 

"  I  assure  you  I  always  regret  any  missed  opportunities 
of  making  or  renewing  acquaintance  with  those  who  come 
from  the  '  far  West,'  where  I  have  many  well-remembered 
friends." 

Mrs.  Norton  received  me  most  kindly ;  and  though  on 


358  Drifting  About. 

the  other  side  of  fifty,  is  still  a  magnificent-looking  woman, 
with  large  lustrous  black  eyes ;  dark,  thick,  and  luxuriant 
hair,  very  slightly  tinged  with  grey ;  teeth  of  perfect 
whiteness  and  regularity,  and  a  voice  extremely  musical. 

Her  manners  are  most  fascinating,  and  many  were  her 
inquiries  of  the  poets  of  this  country — of  Bryant,  Long- 
fellow, Halleck,  and  Willis,  she  spoke  particularly.  While 
conversing  with  her,  I  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  beau- 
tiful description  of  this  world-renowned  songstress  in 
Willis's  poem  of  the  "Lady  Jane,"  and  though  written 
over  twenty  years  ago,  is  still  so  faithful  a  portrait  of 
her. 

This  lady  will  be  remembered  as  one  of  the  three  sisters 
"  Sheridan,"  who,  by  the  unanimous  voice  of  England, 
popular  and  aristocratic,  have  been  indisputably  pronounced 
the  "  three  Graces ;"  they  are  three  women  of  a  degree  of 
beauty  seldom  seen.  The  youngest  of  them,  Lady  Sey- 
mour, was  voted  by  acclamation,  "Queen  of  Beauty,"  for 
the  "  Eglinton  Tournament."  Lady  Dufferin,  the  other  sis- 
ter, is  the  wife  of  Lord  Dufferin,  and  is  celebrated  for  her 
wit,  as  the  other  two  for  the  specialities  of  beauty  and 
genius. 

Mr.  N.  P.  Willis  told  me,  that  the  most  beautiful  woman 
he  ever  saw  tvas  Mrs.  Norton. 

Here  are  the  charming  verses  before  referred  to : — 

She  had  a  low,  sweet  brow,  with  fringed  lakes 
Of  an  unfathom'd  darkness  couch'd  below  ; 

And  parted  on  that  brow  in  jetty  flakes 
The  raven  hair  swept  back  with  wavy  flow, 

Rounding  a  head  of  such  a  shape  as  makes 
The  old  Greek  marble  with  the  goddess  glow. 

Her  nostril's  breathing  arch  might  threaten  storm — 

But  love  lay  in  her  lips,  all  hush'd  and  warm. 


And  small  teeth,  glittering  white,  and  cheek  whose  red 
Seem'd  Passion,  there  asleep,  in  rosy  nest : 

And  neck  set  on  as  if  to  bear  a  head — 
May  be  a  lily,  may  be  Juno's  crest, — 

So  lightly  sprang  it  from  its  snow-white  bed ! 
So  proudly  rode  above  the  swelling  breast ! 

And  motion,  effortless  as  stars  awaking 

And  melting  out,  at  eve,  and  morning  s  breaking ; 


Drifting  About.  359 

And  voice  delicious  quite,  and  smile  that  came 

Slow  to  the  lips,  as  'twere  the  heart  smiled  thro' : — 

These  charms  I've  been  particular  to  name, 
For  they  are,  like  an  inventory,  true, 

And  of  themselves  were  stuff  enough  for  fame ; 
But  she,  so  wondrous  fair,  has  genius  too, 

And  brilliantly  her  thread  of  life  is  spun — 

In  verse  and  beauty  both,  the  "  Undying  One  I" 


cxxv. 

LEAVE   ENGLAND   FOR   NEW  YORK. 

On  Saturday,  29th  May,  1858,  I  sailed  in  the  steamship 
Asia,  Captain  Lott,  once  again  for  New  York,  and  arrived 
after  a  somewhat  dreary  and  foggy  passage,  on  the  10th 
June,  at  Jersey  City. 

After  receiving  the  congratulations  and  kind  greetings 
of  dear  and  cherished  friends,  in  this  most  fascinating  city, 
after  my  world-rounded  voyages,  I  set  to  work  to  prepare 
myself  for  a  "  First  Appearance "  in  the  Metropolis  of 
America,  in  a  "  Monohgue  Entertainment." 


CXXVI. 

A  VISIT  TO  IDLEWILD. 

Having  received  a  very  pleasant  invitation  from  Mr. 
N.  P.  Willis,  to  pass  a  few  days  at  his  country  residence 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  I  wish  briefly  to  chronicle 
the  event,  for  two  reasons :  First,  as  a  slight  acknowledg- 
ment for  the  hospitality  and  kindness  with  which,  by  him- 
self and  his  family,  I  was  treated ;  and,  secondly,  I  wish  to 
have  the  pleasure  of  paying  thus  publicly  a  very  humble 
tribute  to  his  genius. 

Some  months  since,  I  read  in  a  London  Journal,  an 
extract  from  a  Lecture  delivered  by  a  well  known  gentle- 


360  Drifting  About. 

man  of  the  Metropolis,  in  which  he  was  speaking  of  the 
relative  merits  of  the  writers  of  the  present  day. 

He  spoke  of  Mr.  Willis  as  belonging  to  that  class  which 
(he  thought)  had  never  been  properly  appreciated.  He  did 
not,  neither  shall  I,  offer  in  this  brief  sketch,  any  particular 
analysis  of  his  writings,  either  in  prose  or  verse.  What  I 
wish  to  remark  is  simply  this :  that  I  have  not  read,  nei- 
ther can  I  conceive  anything  finer  in  the  English  language, 
than  his  scriptural  poems ;  these — and  they  are  some  of  his 
earliest  efforts — have  never  been  properly  estimated,  and  I 
was  going  to  say  hardly  known. 

His  "  Raising  of  Lazarus,"  the  "  Leper,"  and  the  "  Daugh- 
ter of  Nain,"  entitle  him  to  occupy  the  highest  niche  in 
Fame's  poetic  temple ;  and  as  the  eye  runs  over  the  word- 
painting  of  these  exquisite  creatures  of  his  fancy,  the  pic* 
ture  of  the  scene,  events,  and  circumstances,  is  as  perfect  as 
if  fresh  from  the  hand  of  the  most  distinguished  limner. 

In  Harper's  Magazine  for  January,  1858,  is  a  very 
pleasantly  written  sketch,  beautifully  illustrated  with  etch- 
ings, from  the  pen  and  pencil  of  T.  Addison  Richards,  the 
artist. 

In  reference  to  the  nomenclature  of  this  beautiful  spot, 
Mr.  Willis  says:  "  Idlewild  belonged  to  a  very  valuable 
farm,  but  it  was  a  side  of  it  which,  from  being  very  little 
more  than  a  craggy  ravine — the  bed  of  a  wayward  torrent 
— had  always  been  left  in  complete  wilderness.  When  I 
first  fell  in  love  with  it,  and  thought  of  making  a  home 
amidst  its  tangle  of  mountains,  my  first  inquiry  as  to  its 
price  was  met  with  the  disparaging  remark,  that  it  was  of 
little  value :  only  an  idle  wild,  of  which  nothing  whatever 
could  be  made ;  and  that  description  of  it  stuck  captivat- 
ingly  in  my  memory — '  Idlewild,  Idlewild '  then  shall  be 
the  name." 


Drifting  About.  361 

CXXVIL 


This  is  the  name  of  the  summer  dwelling  of  the  genial 
lyric  poet,  General  George  P.  Morris,  who,  for  so  many 
years,  has  been  connected  with  Mr.  Willis  in  the  publica- 
tion of  the  Home  Journal.  In  the  February  number  of 
the  Art  Journal,  published  in  London  for  1861,  is  an 
exquisite  sketch  of  this  charming  spot.  The  writer  remarks  : 

"  It  is  a  substantial  edifice  of  Doric  simplicity  in  style, 
perfectly  embowered  when  the  trees  are  in  full  leaf,  yet 
commanding,  through  vistas,  some  charming  views  of  the 
river  and  the  neighboring  mountains.  Northward,  and 
near  it,  rises  Mount  Taurus,  with  its  impending  cliff  that 
suggested  the  name  of  the  poet's  country  seat.  It  is  the 
old  'Bull  Hill'  which,  in  Irving's  exquisite  story  of 
'Dolph  Hey  linger,'  'bellowed  back  the  storm'  whose  thun- 
ders had  '  crashed  on  the  Donder  Berg,  and  rolled  up  the 
long  defile  of  the  Highlands,  each  headland  making  a  new 
echo.' " 

4 

A  late  writer  has  justly  said  of  "  Undercliff :" 

"  It  is  a  lovely  spot — beautiful  in  itself,  beautiful  in  its 
surroundings,  and  inexpressibly  beautiful  in  the  home 
affections  which  hallow  it,  and  the  graceful  and  genial 
hospitality  which,  without  pretence  or  ostentation,  receives 
the  guest,  and  with  heart  in  the  grasp  of  the  hand,  and 
truth  in  the  sparkle  of  the  eye,  makes  him  feel  that  he  is 
welcome." 

No  one  connected  with  the  Press  of  New  York  has  been 
more  considerate,  kind-hearted,  and  generous  to  musicians, 
artistes,  or  actors,  than  General  Morris ;  and  the  writer  of 
these  lines,  who  has  had  the  pleasure  of  an  acquaintance 
with  him  for  many  years,  trusts  he  may  long  live  to  grace 
with  his  ballads  the  literature  of  his  native  land. 

16 


362  Drifting  About. 

It  is  hard  to  find  a  kindlier  nature  than  the  nature  this 
gentleman  possesses. 


CXXVIII. 

WASHINGTON  IRVING 

On  Wednesday,  the  11th  August,  1858,  I  went  with  my 

friend  J.  T.  B to  the  funeral  of  Judge  Duer,  at  Trinity 

Church. 

Washington  Irving  was  one  of  the  pall-bearers,  and  at 
the  grave,  as  the  mourners  were  standing  over  it  and  look- 
ing at  the  coffin,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  introduced  to 
Mr.  Irving  by  Judge  Daly,  of  this  city. 

I  had  just  time  to  say  that  I  had  recently  returned  from 
England,  and  had  brought  with  me,  from  his  friend  Colonel 
Wildman,  of  Newstead,  a  little  memento  of  friendship, 
when  he  replied  that  he  should  be  most  happy,  at  any  time, 
to  see  me  at  "  Sunnyside." 

Having  been  on  a  brief  visit  to  Mr.  Louis  Gaylord 
Clark,  then  editor  of  the  Knickerbocker  Magazine,  and 
having  stated  to  him  my  desire  to  call  upon  Mr.  Irving,  I 
left  his  pleasant  cottage  at  Piermont,  crossing  the  Hudson 
to  Tarrytown  and  Irvington. 

The  cottage  is  most  romantically  situated,  amid  a  cluster 
of  trees,  with  the  magnificent  old  Hudson  in  glorious  prox- 
imity, and  is  the  very  quintessence  of  quiet  and  repose. 

In  answer  to  the  bell,  a  servant  informed  me  that  Mr. 
Irving  was  at  home,  and,  upon  taking  my  card,  she  returned 
with  the  answer  that  he  would  see  me  in  the  Library. 

He  very  soon  entered,  and,  extending  his  hand,  greeted 
me  most  cordially. 

I  had  sent  him,  with  the  picture  that  I  had  brought  from 
Newstead  Abbey,  a  printed  sketch  of  my  Wanderings,  and 
he  seemed  quite  desirous  of  chatting,  inquiring  particularly 
about  the  Sepoy  rebellion,  a  portion  of  which  I  had  the 
year  before  witnessed  in  India. 

He  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  Hood's  ballad  "  I  Kemem- 
ber,"  and  asked  me  if  I  had  any  objection  to  sing  it  to  him. 


Drifting  About.  363 

Of  course  I  readily  assented,  and,  seeing  the  piano  open, 
was  about  to  commence  when  I  noticed  a  gentleman  appa- 


rently much  older  than  himself,  with  very  silvery  locks, 
intently  reading  a  newspaper.  I  said,  "  I'm  afraid,  sir,  I 
shall  disturb  that  gentleman."  "  Not  at  all,  not  at  all," 
said  Mr.  Irving;  "  it's  my  brother  Jacob,  he's  as  deaf  as  a 
post ;  if  you  were  to  fire  off  a  cannon  he'd  be  none  the 
wiser !"  He,  and  his  nicees,  to  whom  I  had  been  presented, 
seemed  much  pleased  with  the  song,  Mr.  Irving  remarking 
at  its  conclusion  that  the  last  verse  always  made  him  feel 
like  crying,  and  that  he  regarded  Hood  as  one  of  the  most 
delightful  and  genial  of  poets. 

He  spoke  of  the  delightful  interviews  he  had  with  Tom 
Moore  and  Sir  Walter  Scott.  George  Frederick  Cooke 
was  his  beau-ideal  of  an  actor.  In  speaking  of  the  hours 
he  devoted  to  writing,  he  said :  "I  am  now  on  my  fifth 
volume  of  the  Life  of  Washington,  and  I  hope  I  shall  not 
'  pop  out '  before  it  is  finished  I" 

I  asked  him  if  he  had  ever  met  Byron ?  He  replied: 
"  No,  it's  very  strange ;  but  we  were  always  playing  !  hide 
and  seek '  with  each  other.  On  more  than  one  occasion 
we  were  to  have  met  at  one  of  Eogers'  breakfasts,  but 
there  was  always  a  disappointment." 

In  speaking  of  Dickens,  and  upon  my  telling  him  how 
delighted  I  was  with  his  "  Readings,"  he  said :  "  I  fell  in 
love  with  Dickens  when  he  wrote  the  character  of  '  Little 
Nell,'  and  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  writing  to  him 
thanking  him  for  the  pleasure  he  had  given  me.  To  this 
letter  he  was  good  enough  to  reply.  But  upon  the  publi- 
cation of  his  '  American  Notes '  all  my  affection  for  him 
vanished,  and  I  avoided  calling  upon  him  in  England,  and 
have  never  had  the  desire  to  read  a  line  that  he  has  since 
written." 

We  spoke  of  old  Kean ;  he  then  gave  me  an  imitation 
of  his  peculiar  whispering  on  the  stage,  telling  me  that  it 
could  be  heard  over  the  whole  house. 

The  servant  having  announced  lunch,  we  proceeded  to 
the  breakfast-room,  and  here,  alone  with  Mr.  Irving,  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  gratifying  a  long  cherished  wish,  which  was 
this  : 

As  a  boy  I  had  revelled  in  the  beauties  of  his  "  Sketch 


364  Drifting  About. 

Book,"  and  my  visit  to  "  Stratford  upon  Avon "  was 
entirely  attributable  to  the  delight  experienced  in  reading 
his  exploits  at  the  "Red  Lion"  Inn;  he  winds  up  his 
sketch  thither  in  the  following  exquisite  sentence,  which  I 
had  always  longed  to  repeat  to  him  in  person.  The  time 
had  come.  I  expressed  to  him  what  I  have  now  told  the 
reader,  when  he  replied :  "It  will  give  me  the  greatest 
pleasure  to  hear  it.  What  can  it  be — I  have  forgotten  !" 
I  then  repeated : 

"  How  would  it  have  cheered  the  spirit  of  the  youthful 
bard  when  wandering  forth  in  disgrace  upon  a  doubtful 
world  he  cast  back  a  heavy  look  upon  his  paternal  home, 
could  he  have  foreseen  that  before  many  years  he  should 
return  to  it  covered  with  renown,  that  his  name  should 
become  the  boast  and  glory  of  his  native  place,  that  his 
ashes  should  be  religiously  guarded  as  its  most  precious 
treasure-r-and  that  its  lessening  spire  on  which  his  eyes 
were  fixed  in  tearful  contemplation,  should  one  day  become 
the  beacon,  towering  amidst  the  gentle  landscape,  to  light 
the  literary  pilgrim  of  every  nation  to  his  tomb !" 

Mr.  Irving  held  out  his  hand  to  me,  and  with  moistened 
eye,  said : 

"  It's  very  kind  of  you  to  remember  so  much  of  my 
scribbling — indeed,  I  had  forgotten  it." 

In  his  sketch  of  Stratford,  Mr.  Irving  remarked  : 
"  I  thought  it  something  to  have  seen  the  dust  of  Shak- 
speare."     I  deem  it  an  honor  to  have  sat  at  the  same  table, 
and  enjoyed  two   hours  of  pleasurable  intercourse  with 
Washington  Irving. 


Drifting  About.  365 


CXXIX. 

MY  FIRST  CONCERT  AT  NIBLO's. 

I  HAD  now  completed  my  u  Entertainment,"  which  I  had 
somewhat  changed  and  remodelled,  calling  it,  "  Song  and 
Chit- Chat  of  Travels  in  many  Lands"  and  taken  the  Concert 
Koom  at  Niblo's  for  Thursday  evening,  the  23d  of  Septem- 
ber, 1858. 

The  result  was  a  crowded  house,  the  entertainment  being 
an  unequivocal  success.  On  the  following  morning  the 
journals  spoke  of  it  in  the  most  complimentary  manner. 

I  continued  to  itinerate  for  the  next  month  or  two  in 
Hoboken,  Brooklyn,  Newark,  Philadelphia,  Hartford,  and 
finally  made  my  first  appearance  in  the  good  old  city  of 
Boston. 


cxxx. 

HENRY  W.   LONGFELLOW. 

Who  has  not  heard  of  the  celebrated  bookstore  of  Tick- 
nor  k  Fields,  in  Boston  ?  Well,  it  was  on  a  pleasant  after- 
noon in  October,  '58,  that  in  the  little  back  snuggery  or 
"sanctum  sanctorum"  of  the  poet-publisher,  James  T. 
Fields,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  presented  to  the 
author  of  "  Evangeline."  He  was  most  cordial  in  his 
greeting,  and  invited  me  to  call  on  him  at  Cambridge  the 
following  afternoon. 

At  the  appointed  hour  I  rang  the  bell  of  the  old  mansion 
formerly  occupied  by  General  Washington  (by  the  way, 
how  many  places  the  "  Father  of  his  Country"  did  occupy, 
to  be  sure  I),  and,  upon  entering  the  Library,  I  found  Mr. 
Longfellow  seated. 

The  interview  was  a  most  delightful  one.  We  had  wan- 
dered over  a  good  deal  of  the  same  ground  in  France  and 
Italy ;  I  had  read  his  poems  to  audiences  in  Australia, 


366  Drifting  About. 

California,  Oregon,  and  India,  and  many  little  incidents 
connected  therewith  were  pleasing  to  him  to  hear,  and 
doubly  so  for  me  to  repeat.  I  had  the  pleasure,  also,  of 
reading  to  him  portions  of  his  "  Miles  Standish." 

I  was  charmed  and  delighted  with  him.  His  voice  is 
very  musical,  and  his  manner  most  fascinating ;  I  should 
imagine  him  most  genial,  considerate,  and  kind  in  disposi- 
tion. He  very  politely  invited  me  to  call  upon  him,  upon 
my  return,  which  I  shall  most  certainly  do  ;  and  now  from 
this  day  ever  arter  I  shall  think  of  Higher- water — think 
of  him  who  wrote  the  Poim,  and  how  long  I've  wished  to 
know  him — long'd  to  know  so  good-a-fellow — long'd  to  see 
the  Bard  of  "Standish" — Miles  I've  travell'd — yes,  out- 
landish countries  have  I  wandered  o'er,  wandered  o'er 
outlandish  countries — seen  big  bears  and  little  monkeys — 
monkeys  with  their  tails  behind  'em — monkeys  upon  barrel 
organs — barrel  organs  without  monkeys — great  big  Ele- 
phants and  Camels — Camels  on  the  sands  of  Egypt  have  I 
rode  on,  and  been  blown  on  seas  so  boisterous  and  unruly 
— seas  so  rough  and  Horny,  truly  as  my  pen  in  ink  I  dip, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  "  Building  of  the  Ship  "  that  I  was 
put  in,  I  shouldn't  a'  been  here  to  write,  my  delight,  on 
meeting  with  to-day  the  author  of  "  Voices  of  the  Night." 


CXXXI. 

FIRST  CONCERT  IN  BOSTON. 

Saturday  evening,  November  20,  1858,  I  gave  my  first 
"  Song  and  Chit-Chat  of  Travel,"  at  the  Mercantile  Library 
Hall,  Boston.  The  place  was  crowded  to  suffocation,  and 
among  the  audience  many  of  the  leading  literary,  musical, 
and  theatrical  lions  of  the  day.  The  audience  were  enthu- 
siastic in  their  applause,  and  every  piece,  either  serious  or 
comic,  appeared  to  give  the  most  unbounded  satisfaction. 
The  Boston  Post,  on  Monday  morning,  wound  up  a  very 
lengthy  and  highly  eulogistic  article  in  the  following  words : 

"  It  is  somewhat  difficult  to  arouse  a  Boston  audience  to 


Drifting  About.  367 

enthusiasm,  particularly  when  the  candidate  for  public 
favor  is  comparatively  a  stranger,  but  the  effect  Mr.  Mas- 
sett  produced  by  his  graphic  and  wonderful  recital  of 
Tennyson's  '  Charge  of  the  Light  Brigade,'  and  his  vivid 
description  of  his  exciting  adventure  in  British  India,  pro- 
duced an  effect  almost  electrical,  and  satisfied  us  that  he  has 
not  only  made  a  lasting  impression  here,  but  that  his  future 
career  throughout  the  country  will  be  one  of  complete 
triumph." 

After  this  I  made  a  pleasant  and  profitable  trip  from  New 
York  to  New  Orleans,  proving  rather  more  remunerative 
than  my  Australian  trip. 

!  I  was  gone  four  months.  I  gave  thirty -seven  entertain- 
ments and  jingled  $3,784  (cash)  in  my  pants'  pocket ! 


CXXXIL 

OFF  AGAIN  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

Having  a  desire  once  again  to  see  San  Francisco,  after 
my  somewhat  strange  adventures,  and  wishing,  at  the  same 
time,  to  look  after  my  valuable  "  real  estate,"  I  determined 
to  make  a  third  trip  to  the  land  of  gold.  I  therefore,  on 
5th  October,  1859,  left  New  York,  arriving  in  San  Fran- 
cisco in  twenty-two  days. 

Just  ten  years  since  I  first  "  pitched  my  tent "  on  Clark's 
Point.  The  city  had  improved  wonderfully,  and  I  think  I 
cannot  better  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  its  rapid  march  and 
magnificence  than  by  an  extract  from  the  eloquent  oration 
of  Colonel  E.  J.  C.  Kewen,  of  California,  before  the 
Society  of  the  "  Pioneers :" 

To  you,  fellow  Pioneers,  a  word  of  congratulation  and  I 
have  done. 

This  palatial  city  of  San  Francisco,  with  its  luxurious 
mansions,  its  granite  palaces,  and  its  costly  marts  of  com- 
merce, is  the  glorious  fruitage  of  your  adventure.      The 


368  Drifting  About. 

subdued  waters  of  its  bay,  the  extended  lines  of  its  quays, 
the  busy  hum  of  its  thoroughfares,  the  exhibitions  every 
where  visible  of  its  taste,  its  opulence  and  refinement,  are 
the  splendid  creations  and  magnificent  testimonials  of  your 
enterprise.  Scourged  as  it  has  been  by  the  devastating 
flame,  retarded  by  natural  obstacles,  and  at  times  inundated 
by  swarms  of  lawless  banditti,  it  has  never  been  diverted 
from  its  onward  progress,  nor  ceased  to  be  the  monarch 
wonder  of  the  world.  Like  a  young  Titan,  it  has  humbled 
the  rugged  wilderness,  has  upheaved  the  seated  hills  from 
their  foundations,  and  with  a  conqueror's  step  has  advanced 
along  the  pathway  of  progress  like  a  prince  to  the  throne 
of  undisputed  succession.  Its  harbor  glistens  with  a  forest 
of  masts  belonging  to  the  ships  of  every  nation,  which  have 
poured  and  are  pouring  upon  our  shores  the  accumulated 
riches  of  the  East,  and  vaster  treasures  from  every  clime 
than  ever  freighted  the  galleons  of  Spain  or  the  argosies  of 
Yenice. 

Champollion  taught  the  world  to  decipher  the  hierogly- 
phics on  the  obelisks,  the  tombs,  and  temples  of  Egypt,  but 
a  higher  glory  was  reserved  for  the  Pioneers  of  the  Pacific, 
by  whom  was  destined  the  revelation  to  mankind  of  its 
unavailing  search  of  centuries — the  western  route  to  the 
commerce  of  the  Indies  and  of  the  islands  of  the  Eastern 
Archipelago.  Coincident  with  the  exhumation  of  golden 
treasures  from  the  bleak  summits  of  the '  Sierras,  was  the 
contribution  to  our  shore  of  the  riches  of  China  and  Japan, 
and  the  remote  islands  of  the  Pacific  waste  of  waters.  One 
other  acquisition  and  the  glory  of  San  Francisco  will  have 
reached  its  zenith.  When  the  veins  and  arteries  of  com- 
mercial life  shall  permeate  the  broad  expanse  that  separates 
the  Golden  Gate  from  the  Atlantic,  then  will  its  magnificent 
destiny  proclaim  it  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  world, 
outrivalling  in  commerce,  in  arts,  in  science,  and  literature, 
the  renown  of  antiquity,  and  the  boasted  pretensions  of 
modern  greatness.  If  this  sublime  consummation  is  de- 
feated freedom  will  be  deprived  of  its  brightest  hope,  and  a 
crime  will  be  perpetrated  against  the  social  and  political 
necessities  of  humanity  more  wicked  than  that  which  classic 
fable  has  punished  with  the  naked  rock  and  the  gnawing 
vulture.     Promote  this  glorious  enterprise  and  the  swelling 


Drifting  About.  369 

splendors  and  far-reaching  fame  of  this  mighty  continent 
will  be  imperishable  monuments  to  the  memory  of  the 
Pioneers  of  Freedom  and  Destiny. 

And  in  connexion  with  the  Great  Pacific  Railroad,  which 
I  trust  I  may  live  to  see  built,  the  following  spirit-stirring 
lines  of  Mr.  Frank  Soule,  one  of  the  most  gifted  writers  of 
California,  will  be  found,  I  think,  interesting : 

Hear  you  not  the  answer  votive  ? 

See  you  not  Progression's  train  ? 
Hear  you  not  the  locomotive 

Thundering  along  the  plain  ? 
List !  'tis  coming  near  and  nearer, 

Listen  to  its  piercing  scream ; 
Now  the  whirling  wheels  sound  clearer, 

Now  I  hear  the  hissing  steam. 
Through  the  air  in  transport  gliding — 

Heed  you  not  those  proud  huzzas  I 
Thirty  sister  States  are  riding 

Hither  on  those  rushing  cars. 
Hither,  from  each  struggling  nation, 

Weary  exiles  gladly  roam — 
Give  them  here  a  habitation, 

Liberty,  and  friends,  and  home. 
O'er  the  deserts  wide  and  dreary, 

Through  the  terrors  of  "  the  Horn," 
They  are  coming,  brave,  though  weary, 

Parents  of  a  world  unborn. 
See,  they  gather,  man  and  master, 

Rushing  to  this  western  world, 
Coming,  coming,  fast  and  faster, 
Daring  danger,  pain,  disaster, 

Seeking  honor,  health,  and  gold. 
See,  they  come  from  every  nation — 

See,  our  temple  is  begun ; 
See !  the  men  of  every  station 

Meet  and  labor  all  as  one. 
From  the  cities,  farms  and  ranches, 

From  the  forum's  wordy  strife, 
Teeming  from  life's  varied  branches, 

See  !  the  welcome  path  is  rife. 

Build  a  temple  high  and  holy,^^ 

Build  a  temple  to  the  mind, 
Broad  and  permanent,  though  slowly, 

Be  its  elements  combined, 
16* 


370  Drifting  About. 

Where  the  mighty  and  the  lowly 

Happiness  may  seek  and  find. 
Beautiful,  then,  let  us  build  it, 

Vieing  Solomon's  of  old ; 
Eaise  its  towering  roof,  and  gild  it 

With  our  hearts'  own  native  gold. 
Build  it  strongly,  build  it  here — 

Temple  of  the  Pioneer. 

Eeturning  once  again,  I  arrived  in  New  York  on  Christ- 
mas Eve — having  been  absent  a  little  over  two  months. 
And  now,  my  kind  and  considerate  reader,  if  I  have  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  your  attention  thus  far  in  my  wanderings, 
I  am  truly  grateful ;  but  I  am  really  inclined  to  think  you 
will  be  delighted  when  I  inform  you  that  this  somewhat 
strange  and  eventful  history  is  drawing  to  a  close.  At  any 
rate  my  peregrinations  and  adventures  stop  here.  For  the 
present,  I  have  made  New  York  my  resting-place,  and  have, 
as  the  saying  goes,  "settled  down." 

I  cannot  close  without  offering  my  heartfelt  thanks  for 
the  great  kindness  extended  to  me  by  the  Press  throughout 
the  United  States,  and  various  portions  of  the  Old  World, 
in  Australia  and  in  India,  during  'my  public  career.  The 
notices  and  criticisms  of  my  performances  have  been  genial, 
generous,  and  encouraging. 

I  desire,  also,  to  say  a  word  to  those  who  enter  the  field 
as  Lecturers,  Concert-Givers,  or  Performers. 

To  insure  success,  they  must  be  patient  and  persevering ; 
seeking  for  sunshine  even  when  the  storm  is  darkest,  and 
aiming  all  the  while  to  improve  as  they  progress. 

And  now,  kind  reader !  Farewell.  You  will  agree  with 
me  that  I  have  indeed  been  a  "rolling-stone,"  as  to  the 
"  moss"  which  I  did  or  did  not  gather  in  the  region  of  lucre, 
that  is  "  neither  here  nor  there." 

I  have  been  through  many  a  golden  district,  and  often 
supposed  I  would  die  a  wealthy  individual. 

That  ambition  is  not  very  active  at  present ;  but  while  1 
desire  to  win  u  g^^en  opinions  from  all  sorts  of  people  "  I 
cannot  deny  thiSPconsidering  how  many  rainy  days  I 
encountered  in  the  events  this  book  describes,  I  am  war- 
ranted in  hoping  for  something  to  lay  up  in  anticipation  of 
that  particular  "rainy  day"  about  which  everybody  talks, 


Drifting  About. 


37  > 


and  which,  I  suppose,  makes  its  appearance  when  our  reign 
of  life  is  about  to  close ! 

If,  however,  the  public  desire  to  know  anything  of  my 
future  peregrinations  or  "doings"  they  can  be  fully 
enlightened  by  addressing,  post-paid,  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Thomas  H.  Landon,  Post-office,  Harlem,  New  York,  or  at 
my  Publisher's. 

And  now,  reader,  your  hand  once  more,  God  bless  you ! 

If  in  the  pages,  of  which  this  is  the  last,  I  have  suc- 
ceeded in  affording  you  amusement,  in  that  result  I  will 
find  one  of  the  greatest  rewards  ever  bestowed  on  your 
friend  and  well-wisher 

The  Authob. 


THE   END. 


1863. 


A  NEW  LIST  OF 

BOOKS 

ISSUED    BY 

CARLETON,  PUBLISHER, 

(LATE    RUDD    &    CARLLTOX,) 

413  Broadway, 
NEW    YORK. 


M& 


^ 


NEW    BOOKS 

And    New    Editions    Recently   Issued  by 

CARLETON,    PUBLISHER, 

(Late  RUDD  &  CARLETON,) 
413    BROAD  WAY,    NEW    YORK. 


N.B.— The  Publisher,  upon  receipt  of  the  price  in  advance,  will  send  any 
of  the  following  Books,  by  mail,  postage  fkkk,  to  a«y  part  of  tho  United  States. 
'JTns  convenient  and  very' safe  mode  may  be  adopted  when  the  neighboring  Book- 
K-Uers  are  not  supplied  with  the  desired  work.    State  name  and  address  in  full. 


Lee   Miserable**. 

Victor  Hugo's  great  novel — the  only  complete  unabridged  trans- 
lation. Library  Edition.  Five  vols.  i2mo.   cloth,  each,  $  I.  oo. 
The  same,  five  vols.  8vo.  cloth,  $1.00.     Paper  covers,  50  cts. 
The  same,  (cheap  ed.)  1  vol.  8vo.  cloth,  $1.50.  paper,  $1.00. 
Ues  Miserables— Illustrations. 
26  photographic  illustrations,  by  Brion.    Elegant  quarto,  $3.00. 

Among  the  Pines, 
or,  Down  South  in  Secession  Time.  Cloth,  $1.00,  paper,  75  cts. 

My  Southern  Friends. 
By  author  of  "  Among  the  Pines."  Cloth,  $1.00.  paper,  75  cts. 

Itutledge. 
A  powerful  American   novel,  by  an    unknown   author,  $1.50. 

The  Sutherland*. 
The  new  novel  by  the  popular  author  of  "  Rutledge,"  $1.50. 

The  Habits  of  Good  Society. 
A  hand-book  for  ladies  and  gentlemen.    Best,  wittiest,  most  en- 
tertaining work  on  taste  and  good  manners  ever  printed,  $>1>.£0. 

The  Cloister  and  the  Hearth. 
A  magnificent  new  historical  novel,  by  Charles  Reade,  author 
of  "Peg  Woffington,"  etc.,  cloth,  $1.50,  paper  covers,    $1.25. 

Beulah. 
A  novel  of  remarkable  power,  by  Miss  A.  J.  Evans.      $1.50. 


LIST  OF  BOOKS  PUBLISHED 


Art  em  us    Ward,  His  Book. 

The  racy  writings  of  this  humorous  author.  Illustrated,  $1.25. 

Tlie  Old  Merchants  of  New  Vorfc. 
Entertaining  reminiscences  of  ancient  mercantile   New  York 
City,  by  "  Walter  Barrett,  clerk."      First  Series.    $1.50  each. 

Like  and  Unlike. 
Novel  by  A.  S.  Roe,  author  of  "I've  been  thinking,"  &c.$i.50. 

Orpheus  C.  Kerr  Papers. 
Second  series  of  letters  by  this  comic  military  authority.  $1.25. 

Marian  Grey. 
Newdomestic  novel,  by  theauthor  of  "Lena  Rivers,"  etc.  $1.50. 

Leua  Rivers. 
A  popular  American  novel,  by  Mrs.  Mary  J.  Holmes,  $1.50. 

A  Book  about  Boctors. 
An  entertaining  volume  about  the  medical  profession.      81.50, 

The  Adventures  of  Verdant  Green. 
Humorous  novel  of  English  College  life.     Illustrated.     $1.25. 

The  Culprit  Fay. 
Joseph  Rodman  Drake's  faery  poem,  elegantly  printed,  50  cts. 

Boctor  Antonio. 
A  charming  love-tale  of  Italian  life,    by   G.  Ruffini,  $1.50. 

Lavinia. 
A  new  love-story,  by  the  author  of  "  Doctor  Antonio,"  $1.50. 

Bear  Experience. 
An  amusing  Parisian  novel,  by  author  "Doctor  Antonio,"  $1.00. 

The  Life  of  Alexander  Von  Humboldt. 
A  new  and  popular  biography  of  this  savant,  including  his 
travels  and  labors,  with  introduction  by  Bayard  Taylor,  $1.50. 

Love  (L'Amour.) 
A  remarkable  volume,  from  the  French  of  Michelet.     $1.25. 

Woman  (La  Femme.) 
A  continuation  of  "  Love  (L'Amour),"  by  same  author,  $1.25. 

The  Sea  (L.a  Mer.)J 
New  work  by  Michelet,  author  "  Love"  and  "  Woman,"  $1.25. 

The  Moral  History  of  Woman. 
Companion  to  Michelet's  "  L'Amour,"  from  the  French,  $1.25. 

Mother  Goose  for  Grown  Folks. 
Humorous  and  satirical   rhymes  for  grown  people,      75  cts. 

The  Kelly's  and  the  O'Kelly's. 
Novel  by  Anthony  Trollope,  author  of"  Doctor  Thorne,"$  1.50. 


J3T  CARL  ETON,  NEW  YORK. 


The  Great  Tribulation. 

Or,  Things  coming  on  the  earth,  by  Rev.  John  dimming,  D.D., 
author  "Apocalyptic  Sketches,"  etc.,  two  series,  each     $1.00. 

The  Great  Preparation. 
Or,  Redemption  draweth  nigh,  by  Rev.  John  dimming,  D.D., 
author  "The  Great  Tribulation,"  etc.,  two  series,  each  $1.00. 

The  Great  Consummation. 
Sequel  "  Great  Tribulation,"  Dr_Cumming,  two  series,  $1.00. 

Teach  us  to  Pray. 
A  new  work  on  The  Lord's  Prayer,  by  Dr.  Cumming,  $1.00. 

The  Slave  Power. 
By  Jas.  E.  Cairnes,  of  Dublin  University,  Lond.  ed.        $1.25. 

Game  Fish  of  the  North. 
A  sporting  work  for  Northern  States  and  Canada.  Illus.,  $1.50. 

Drifting  About. 
By  Stephen. C.  Massett  ("Jeemes  Pipes"),  illustrated,      $1.25 

The  Flying  Dutchman. 
A  humorous  Poem  by  John  G.  Saxe,  with  illustrations,  50  cts. 

Notes  on  Shakspcare. 
By  Jas.  H.  Hackett,  the  American  Comedian  (portrait),  $1.50. 

The  Spirit  of  Hebrew  Poetry. 
By  Isaac  Taylor,  author  "  History  of  Enthusiasm,"  etc.,  $2.00. 

A  Life  ot  Hugh  Miller. 
Author  of  "  Testimony  of  the  Rocks,"  &c,  new  edition,  $1.50. 

A  Woman's  Thoughts  about  "Women. 
By  Miss  Dinah  Mulock,  author  of  "  John  Halifax,"  etc.,  $  1 .00. 

Curiosities  of  Natural  History. 
An  entertaining  vol.,  by  F.  T.  Buckland  ;  two  series,  each  $1.25. 

The  Partisan  Leader. 
Beverley  Tucker's  notorious  Southern  Disunion  novel,     $1.25. 

Cesar  Birotteau. 
First  of  a  series  of  Honore  de  Balzac's  best  French  novels,  $  1 .00. 

Petty  Annoyances  of  Married  Life. 
The  second  of  the  series  of  Balzac's  best  French  novels,  $1.00. 

The  Alchemist. 
The  third  of  the  series  of  the  best  of  Balzac's  novels,      $1.00. 

fSiigenie  Grandet. 
The  fourth  of  the  series  of  Balzac's  best  French  novels,  $1.00. 

The  National  School  for  the  Soldier. 
Elementary  work  for  the  soldier  ;  by  Capt.  Van  Ness,   50  cts. 


UHT  OF  BOOKS  VUllUSttED 


Tom  Tiddler's  Ground. 

Charles  Dickens's  new  Christmas  Story,  paper  cover,       25  cts. 

National  Hymns. 
An  essay  by  Richard  Grant  White.     8vo.  embellished,  $1.00. 

George  Brimley. 
Literary  Essays  reprinted  from  the  British  Quarterlies,    $1.25. 

Thomas  Bailey  Aid  rich. 
First  complete  collection  of  Poems,  blue  and  gold  binding,  %  1 .00. 

Out  of  His  Head. 
A  strange  and  eccentric  romance  by  T.  B.  Aldrich,        Si. 00. 

The  Course  of  True  Love 
Never  did  run  smooth.    A  Poem  by  Thomas  B.  Aldrich,  50  cts. 

Poems  of  a  Year. 
By  Thomas  B.  Aldrich,  author  of  "Babie  Bell,"  &c,     75  cts. 

The  King's  Bell. 
A  i  Mediaeval  Legend  in  verse,  by  R.  H.  Stoddard,  75  cts. 

The  Morgesons. 
A  clever  novel  of  American  Life,  by  Mrs.  R.  H.  Stoddard,  $1.00. 

Beatrice  Cenci. 
An  historical  novel  by  F.  D.  Guerrazzi,  from  the  Italian,  $1.50. 

Isabella  Orsini. 

An  historical  novel  by  the  author  of  "Beatrice  Cenci,"  $1.25. 

A  Popular  Treatise  on  Deafness. 

For  individuals  and  families,  by  E.  B.'Lighthill,  M.D.,    81.00. 

Oriental  Harems  and  Scenery. 

A  gossipy  work,  translated  from  the  French  of  Belgiojoso,  $1.25. 

Liola  Montez. 
/Her  lectures  and  autobiography,  with  a  steel  portrait,     $1.25. 

John  Boe  and  Bichard  Boe. 
A  novel  of  New  York  city  life,  by  Edward  S.  Gould,    $1.00. 

Docsticks'  Letters. 
The  original  letters  of  this  great  humorist,  illustrated,     $1.50. 

Plu-ri-bus-tah. 
A  comic  history  of  America,  by  "  Doesticks,"  illus.,       $1.50. 

The  Elephant  Club. 
A  humorous  description  of  club-life,  by  "Doesticks,"     $1.50. 

Vernon  Grove. 
A  novel  by  Mrs.  Caroline  H.  Glover,  Charleston,  S.  C,  $1.00. 

The  Book  of  Chess  Literature. 
A  complete  Encyclopaedia  of  this  subject,  by  D.  W.  Fiske,#i.50. 


BY  CARL  ETON,  NEW  YORK. 


Tactics. 

Or,  Cupid  in  Shoulder-straps.     A  West  Point  love  story,  %  1 .00. 

Sprees  and  Splashes. 
A  volume  of  humorous  sketches,  by  Henry  Morford,     81.00. 

Around  the  Pyramids. 
A  new  book  of  adventure  and  travel,  by  Aaron  Ward,  $1.25. 

ii  arret  Van  Horn. 
Or,  The  Beggar  on  Horseback,  by  John  S.  Sauzade,       $1.25. 

Alflo  Balzani. 
Or,  The  Diary  of  a  Proscribed  Sicilian,  by  D.  Minnelli,  $1.25. 

China  and  the  Chinese. 
Being  recent  personal  reminiscences,  by  W.  L.  G.  Smith,  $1.25. 

Transition. 
A  Memoir  of  Emma  Whiting,  by  Rev.  H.  S.  Carpenter,  81.00. 

Lulu. 
A  novel  of  Life  in  Washington,  by  M.  T.  Walworth,     $1.25. 

Lyrics  and  Idyls. 
"  Diamond  Wedding,"  and  other  poems,  by  E.  C.  Stedman,  7  5  cts. 

The  Prince's  Ball. 
A  humorous  poem  by  Edmund  C.  Stedman,  illustrated,  50  cts. 

Gen.  Nathaniel  Lyon. 
The  life  and  political  writings  of  the  late  patriot  soldier,  $1.00. 

Twenty  Years  around  the  World. 

Volume  of  travel,  by  John  Guy  Vassar,  Poughkeepsie,   $2.50. 

Philip  Thaxter. 

A  new  novel,  with  scenes  in  California,  one  vol.  i2mo.,  $1.00. 

From  Hit >  time  to  Hopping:. 
A  novel  by  the  author  of  "  Our  Farm  of  Four  Acres,"  $1.00. 

Fast  Day  Sermons. 
Of  1861,  the  best  Sermons  by  the  prominent  Divines,    $1.25. 

Debt  and  Grace. 
The  Doctrine  of  a  Future  Life,  by  Rev.  C.  F.  Hudson,  $1.25. 

Fort  Lafayette. 
A  novel,  by  the  Hon.  Benjamin  Wood,  of  New  York,  $1.00. 

Romance  of  a  Poor  Young  Man. 
A  capital  novel  from  the  French  of  Octave  Feuillet,         $1.00. 

Sarah  Gould. 
Volume  of  miscellaneous  poems,  bound  in  blue  and  gold,  75  cts. 

The  Monitor. 
A  new  book  of  travel,  by  Wm.  Hoffman,  illustrated,      $1.50. 


LIST  OF  BOOKS  PUBLISHED 


England  in  Rhyme. 

A  pleasant  method  for  instructing  children  in  History,    50  cts. 

Brown's  Carpenter's  Assistant. 

A  practical  work  on  architecture,  with  plans,  large  410.,  $5.00. 
Sybelle 

And  other  miscellaneous  poems,  by  L ,  izmo.,  cloth,  75  cts 

Wa-Wa- Wanda. 
A  legend  of  old  Orange  County,  New  York,  in  verse,     75  cts. 

Husband  vs.  Wife. 
A  satirical  poem,  by  Henry  Clapp,  Jr.,  illus.  by  Hoppin,  60  cts. 

Ronniania. 
Travels  in  Eastern  Europe,  by  J.  O.  Noyes,  illustrated,  $1.50. . 

-    The  Christmas  Tree. 
A  volume  of  miscellany  for  the  young,  with  illustrations,  75  cts. 

The  Captive  Nightingale. 
A  charming  little  book  for  children,  many  illustrations,  75  cts. 

Sunshine  through  the  Clouds. 

Comprising  stories  for  juveniles,  beautifully  illustrated,  75  cts. 

.     Cosmogony, 
Or,  the  mysteries  of  creation,  by  Thomas  A.  Davies,      $1.50. 

An  Answer  to  Hugh  Miller 
And  other  kindred  geologists,  by  Thomas  A.  Davies,      $1.25. 

Walter  Ashwood. 
A  novel  by  "Paul  Siogvolk,"  author  of  "  Schediasms,"    $1.00. 

South  wold. 
A  new  society  novel  by  Mrs.  Lillie  Devereux  Umsted,  $1.00. 

Ballads  of  the  War. 
A  collection  of  poems  for  1861,  by  George  W.  Hewes,  75  cts. 

Hartley  Norman. 
A  new  and  striking  American  novel ;  one  large  izmo.,  $1.25. 

The  Vagabond. 
Sketches  on  literature,  art,  and  society,  by  Adam  Badeau,  $1.00. 

ff<:dgar  Poe  and  His  Critics. 
A  literary  critique  by  Mrs.  Sarah  Helen  Whitman,         75  cts. 

The  New  and  the  Old.    » 
Sketches  in  California  and  India,  by  Dr.  J.  W.  Palmer,  $1.25. 

Up  and  Down  the  Irrawaddi. 
Adventures  in  the  Burman  Empire,  by  J.  W.  Palmer,     $1.00. 

Miles  Standish  Illustrated. 
With  photographs,  by  J.  W.  Ehninger,  elegant  4to.,       $6.00. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 

Fine  sthednle:  25  cents  on  fitst  day  overdue 

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mv  14  . 

REC'D  LD 

JUN111958 


UAug'62SSf 
REC'D  LD 

AUG  H  196? 

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■ 


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JAN  24  '66  -12 .Nl 

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UNIV.  OF  CAI 


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OCT  Z    wl'J 


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BECCIRDEC10 


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THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


